(Part 4) Top products from r/fixit

>I'm guessing this unit is made particle board? It has very little structural integrity... that's why this type of stuff is so cheap.

Yup. I would have been happy to spend more, but this was the only TV stand that had the space and shelves that I wanted.

>Anyway... It's a little hard to tell exactly what's going on from the pic but I think the whole thing is sagging. Meaning the bottom panel as well as the top. That amp must be heavy.

I think you're onto something here! I scanned in the page from the manual that describes the various weight limits, here. My receiver, a Denon AVR-S900W, weighs 21 lbs. I'm not sure what "50 lbs total" is supposed to mean but if it means the combined weight on all the shelves in the centre section, then I should be within spec - the next heaviest item is an Aiwa MX100 VCR which according to Amazon weighs 11 lbs. The only other devices are a cable box (under 10 lbs) and a slimline Blu-ray player.

Of course, regardless of specs, some sagging is happening...

>Check the measurement from the floor to the underside of the bottom panel at the ends of the unit. Then check it in the middle. Is it different?

Yes it is! By about 5mm.

>The easy fix is to cut two pieces of wood or something to what the height should be. Position them underneath where the two interior partitions are. If you have no wood or the means to cut it, just stack up some old books or something. The idea is simply to provide support for the two interior partitions which should then provide better support for the top. Good luck.

I'll give that a try. Thanks a lot for your help. And to everyone else in this thread for your replies!

Everything this guys saying is on point. For texture use Orange Peel. Get some carpet shield that rolls on and sticks to the carpet so if any mud drips you have something protecting your carpet and when you're done you just peel off and toss......use later if you ever repaint the house way better than a painters tarp imo. When you sand its gonna be dusty Ive found the best bags for drywall dust is these Wunderbags they're perfect for a large wet/dry vac.

Pro Tip - Immerse your Orange Peel Texture into a bowl of warm water as you're setting up to texture, that will allow you to get the most out of the can.

Those little fried chips can be replaced to bring it back to life. I am an R/C hobbyist and have friend some SMD components on boards before.

The problem is finding the SMD part in the first place. Then replacing the burnt part.

>Can I replace it?

Yes.

>would I be able to desolder/solder the repair myself properly?

It is doable but you need the proper tools. I have removed small parts like that with this type of tool

https://youtu.be/kYBxA9zJybE?t=16s

https://youtu.be/gSzfNrbDfIY?t=37s

But those tools are not cheap and you will also need a soldering iron

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weller-25-Watt-Standard-Duty-Soldering-Iron-Kit-SP25NKUS/204195328

and solder

http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Pocket-Pack-Solder-0-031/dp/B00068IJNQ/ref=lp_13837421_1_1/189-2982059-9689447?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1453860235&sr=1-1

If you don't have the tools nor the experience, you might as well buy a new bluetooth. Or you could try to repair it as a hobby and get some self achievement gratification if you do manage to fix it. So, technically, it can be repaired.

Yep, just start with the basics before you get more complicated. Make sure you have power, then follow power along until it's not there, and figure out why. If power is going everywhere and the HU still won't work, it's busted or has a blown fuse.

A test light is cheap and easy to use, just make sure it'll work with 12 volt DC. A multimeter is much more versatile and not too expensive. I have this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00066ZZO4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it works OK for a cheap thing. For basic testing, at least.

Thanks for the response.

Yes, there is a valve inside the house that is turned off. And I see what you mean about the allen screw and that makes sense about it draining. But you know how there's a pipe between the valve inside the house and this little junction outside? That section of pipe still has water in it that can't drain through the tiny inside drain because there is a vacuum in the pipe.

Are you saying that I need to buy some sort of water valve handle that I stick on top of the silver "plug" to be able to turn it?

EDIT: Oh man, is this what I need? Or perhaps this or this is better.

Studio Marmo

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/039373028X

https://www.amazon.com/Fine-Marble-Architecture-Studio-Marmo/dp/0393730743

Here's the stone guidelines. I found the OG book in the Strand on vacation. My friends gave it to me as a bday gift because I was so obsessed and didn't realize.

Mine has the original CD which is why my eye is twitching right now.

Some type of oil filter wrench (for cars) should do the trick, there are many different types out there.

After looking through your pictues again,

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000UD0CTQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1427821476&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&keywords=oil+filter+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=41WDAhTpWiL&ref=plSrch this is probably your best bet.

Also, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SR4Q8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1427821476&sr=8-1&keywords=oil+filter+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=41gd0o9Ph8L&ref=plSrch&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

You drill into it with a reverse (left handed) drillbit, running your drill in reverse. That will probably bring the bolt out, but if it doesn't you use an Easy Out screw extractor to screw it out. Here is a kit with both left handed bits and extractors. You can get individual tools at a local hardware store. Soak it well wit PB Blaster first.

This stuff is great https://www.amazon.com/Align-Rite-Screwgrab/dp/B0000DD2JZ

It looks to me like it may be an X-10 Wall Switch. It's for remote control of switches and outlets. Take the switch plate off and see what the faceplate says.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/21KXaH98xeL.jpg

If it looks like this then that is what you have. You will need the control unit to operate it, otherwise replace it with a regular switch.

Agreed, especially if there's more than one component giving you trouble. It's pretty simple to just replace them all for about $20 per toilet.

Checked online and found this stuff ... never used but looks promising from a color match


https://www.amazon.com/Kampel-901-White-Seam-Fil-Tube/dp/B0006G84RO

Is it more of a formica/laminate finish for the table top? Maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/Fix-Chip-Counter-Repair-Kit/dp/B000678MOS/ref=sr_1_1

I can't figure out what problem you see where you think glue would be needed. They sell replacement sockets for a reason. Nothing more than basic and common mounting elements are used with this socket and fixture. The nut holding the copper ground wire to the fixture is also what holds the socket in place. Take off old socket and head to closest hardware store get new matching socket. Reuse the hollow threaded rod for the new socket.

The new socket may or may not already have wires. It may be easier in the OP's case to use one with wire leads already attached like this rather than this without wire leads

Ok so here's the actual power strip I'm using: link. The product description makes it out to be a surge protector which should've prevented this. If it matters, the monitor was plugged into the very front slot (furthest from the on switch) and then I plugged the laptop plug into the next adjacent slot.

Try one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-265DCCSEN-Dual-Function-Security/dp/B0002YUX8I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505496970&sr=8-2&keywords=door+jam

Average cost? Around tree fiddy.

Seriously. Just get a little putty in a close color, you'll never notice.

WD-40 isn't super good for rusted bolts. Use either PB Blaster or there's a homemade mix that's supposed to be even better - I think it's ATF and acetone mixed 50/50.

Other than that, what /u/firematt422 recommended is dead on: grind a slot across the head and use a screwdriver or use vice grips.

If you try both of those and are still stuck, you'll want to pick up a handheld manual impact driver. (like this ; Craftsman sells one, too). With this, you'll twist while holding it from the side and wack it with a BFH. The internal gearing will force it to turn as it impacts.

Just some questions for you and /u/brokenleko

1. I've never used gaffer tape, is this okay? Or maybe this?. Or anything on amazon.ca that you guys would recommend?
   
   
2. Is there any harm to just cutting it off? I'm unlikely to land on it when running