(Part 3) Top products from r/minipainting

Been painting a few years and lurking here forever, here's my advice:

> Mixing Brush: I am told that you should not mix paint with your primary brushes. Where can I buy a cheap brush for mixing, and anything special I need?

If I'm already using a "larger" brush (1 or higher) I'll mix with my good brushes and just be mindful of how far up the ferrule I am or use the back of the brush. If I'm using a detail brush I'll use a super cheap synthetic 2 or 3. Look on amazon or at a local art chain (Michaels) for cheap student grade packs of round brushes. You'll end up using these for terrain, PVA glue, and all sorts of other things.

> More Brushes: My kit came with a 2 flat and 0 round. What other brushes will I need, and what in your opinion is a good brand to buy? Any set that covers all the basics? Although I am new to painting, I'd like something that will last me and be quality. They sell SoHo brushes in my local store, which look like they are great quality. Any users here?

This topic can get pretty involved. Brushes have a lifespan so if you're new to the hobby I wouldn't recommend dropping money on higher end Kolinsky brushes like W&N Series 7 or daVinci Maestro. For a new painter I recommend Winsor & Newton's University series and Army Painter's Wargamer brushes. The W&N University brushes are higher than average student quality acrylic brushes that can be abused. They're great for basecoating with thicker mixes. The Wargamer brushes are a cheap intro into real sable hair so you can get started at layering with thinned paints.

> Primers: This is a big ? for me --- Spray primers, basic black white and grey? Which ones, what brand, etc... Really unsure what is recommended here, as in a store there are so many, but hoping /r/minipainting can help as we are all painting the same stuff. Would love some specific product recommendations here.

For the most part, you have three options: spray cans, brush-on, and airbrush. I can't really recommend spray primers - they require ventilation, have trouble with humidity, and can only be sprayed at one consistency. Many of the hobby spray cans advertised for basing your minis aren't actual primers. Brush-on primers are the most economical but run the risk of losing detail on the mini if applied heavily. Airbrushing is my preferred method using either Mr. Hobby's Mr. Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner for highly detailed minis, or Vallejo Primer for tabletop quality minis. Vallejo Primer's are acrylic and polyurethane so they're more protective but can sometimes take away detail.

> Finish: I saw a few videos where they spray some 'protective' finish on a product, I believe there are matte finishes as well as gloss finishes? Can I get any 'matte/gloss finish' product, or are there certain ones for miniatures?

Same three options as priming. If your minis are going to be handled often, I recommend a glossy coat then a matte coat. Glossy varnishes are stronger than matte varnishes, so this combo will give you the most protection. You are more likely to lose some detail this way. If your minis are for display only you can skip the varnish and just be careful. Dried acrylics are basically thin plastic so they have some durability on their own. Brand-wise I airbrush using Liquitex Professional gloss and matte varnishes, thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner and a drop or two of Vallejo flow-improver. Vallejo varnishes are also good but Liquitex offers the best bang for your buck.

> Mini Holders: I found this product which looks amazing, but is not available until late 2017 since the Kickstarter has ended. Are there any similar products that someone could recommend, or should I just go with something very simple? Would love to hear some ideas.

I use an old Citadel paint pot and white poster tack to stick to the bottom of the base. If you want to paint individual parts, heat the tip of a needle/pin with a lighter, press it gently into the glue joint of the mini (the hole will be hidden later), then press the other side of the needle into a wine cork or similar.

> Brush Care: I got a "masters" paste from a store that I was told to rinse and swirl my brushes in after painting. Any other tips or is this okay?

Master's is the best option, just make sure you follow the directions and use warm water for best results. You can also get a small bottle of W&N Brusher Cleaner and Restorer to have on reserve if you accidentally let paint dry on one of your better brushes. If it's a cheap or synthetic brush you can clean it with original Windex (WITHOUT Ammonia-D) or Vallejo airbrush cleaner, followed by a wash with Master's.

> Carving/Scraping tools: I know some minis need to be cut from a sheet and some have mold lines that need to be cleaned. How is this done and what tools are needed?

Get a decent pair of sprue cutters - I recommend these. You should be able to find these for $10 at a local hobby store. For plastic minis you should be fine with just an X-acto or similar knife for getting rid of mold lines - just run the blade mostly perpendicular to the line and "shave" it gently.

> Storage Box: For all the little things that come along with painting, what do you use/recommend to store everything in?

A coffee mug works fine as a brush holder. You can try a hardware store for all sorts of containers if you're traveling with paints. Otherwise desk space and some imagination (spice racks) or money (official paint stand) are all you need.

> Paint Agitators: I was told to get some steel balls and put them in every paint bottle I have. It's okay to leave them in there. Would these work, or any concerns?

Please do not use steel ball bearings. You can attempt to buy "marine grade" ball bearings but unless it's reputable and expensive they are still likely going to rust and ruin your paint. I use hematite beads for necklaces for my paints. 4mm for dropper bottles and 6mm for pots. You can get them cheaper at Michaels w/ a coupon and they're inert so they won't stain your paints.

> Flow Improver: Thoughts? I was told to mix this into my washes. How much should I add, one drop? Is this product okay, or is this only for airbrushing?

Flow improver is generally used for airbrushing to extend the drying time and prevent clogs. Fluid retarder in the form of actual art supply from W&N or Liquitex, Vallejo's Glaze Medium, or Games Workshop's Lahmian Medium are what you're looking for. These can all be used to turn a normal paint into a wash (heavy dilution), or can be used to extend drying time for wet blending (light dilution). I can't give you exact ratios as each paint company, each color, and the age of your paints will dictate that. Trial and error is the only method here.


One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is a wet palette. It will save you a lot of headache when learning to wet blend and will let you save mixed paints for many days. You can get one for cheap and use either the papers that come with it or kitchen parchment paper. Both will yield different results so play around with both. Be sure to use distilled water or you're likely to get some funk from mold after a couple days.

>1: You say you use Vallejo paints, what is the reason for using that brand, Cost? Quality?

Boils down to really just two things.... the model air/game air paints are pre-thinned for airbrushing which is super handy, especially when starting out, and two, dropper bottles are infinitely better for airbrush work than those stupid-ass paint pots GW makes. I have LOTS of GW paints as they are amazing paints. (expensive, but amazing) Typically i brush paint with GW and airbrush with Vallejo.

>2: For some reason, that airbrush costs nearly 60 pounds :D (i live in the UK, if you hadnt guessed!) if i were to get that specific airbrush, what else would i need to make it work, you mention an Air Compressor (brand? type?) and a Water Trap (whats the purpose of that - as i say, bit of a noob here!), what else, some sort of Hose to connect the compressor to the brush i assume? any cleaning supplies? which specific paints do you use?

WTF?! That airbrush is 60 fuckin pounds in the UK. Shit. At any rate, ANY TANK compressor will work. A tank compressor compresses air into a giant tank that is THEN let out of the tank through the brush, which allows for smooth flow. If it were an air compressor without a tank then it would "putt, putt, putt air out." which is deadly for airbrush work. You want smooth constant air flow.

Airbrush to Compressor Hose

Water trap for air compressors Note: these aren't 100% necessary for a larger tank air compressor as the large tank somewhat does exactly what this little guy does. These are usually only necessary for a compressor that isn't a tank fed. Moisture through condensed air is a real problem and if it gets into your paint, it'll fuck up your smoothness of airbrushing.

My exact compressor, which can be used for LOTS of things, not just airbrushing. Note: the only downside to these types of compressor is how goddamned loud they are. Pretty much HAVE to be used outdoors.

I connect the airbrush to the hose i linked earlier. I connect that hose to the water trap i linked earlier. I connect the water trap to a standard thick cheap air compressor hose. I connect the cheap air compressor hose to the air compressor.

I assure you it's FAR less complicated than it seems. That masters brush i linked you earlier comes with a 'quick release' that is STUPID handy. It connects to the airbrush hose (the blue-ish one linked) really quickly.

I use pretty much exclusively Vallejo Air paints.

Model Air Standard Colors

Model Air Range

Game Air Range

Only difference between game and model air ranges is the color vibrance and ability to be touched repeatedly and not wear off. (should not be a problem at all if you varnish your models though). Game air colors are generally formulated to mimic the GW range as well.

The only difference between Game and Model vs Game Air/Model Air is that the Air versions of them are pre-thinned and ready to shoot through an airbrush straight outta the bottle. You can buy almost any of those colors individually from amazon.

Also, Airbrush Guru is THE best resource I've seen on the subject. TON of helpful tips and tricks. Great in-depth reviews of noob friendly airbrushes and how to clean them. Most of the things I've linked you to buy can be used for things OTHER than airbrushing. The reasons for that are they are cheap. Good airbrushes run for hundreds of dollars. Shitty ones that still work awesome are priced accordingly. Start small, then dive in from there.

Lastly but not in the very least... safety is king. DO NOT AIRBRUSH IN A CLOSED ROOM WITH NO VENTILATION.

Airbrushing acrylics is the safest of the paints to shoot through, but even they can get in your lungs and over time cause problems. If you are going to try to airbrush indoors make sure you setup a proper ventilation system or have in place a spray booth. Something like this would be fine.

P.S. This is incredibly handy as well, like, more handy than anything I've shown you so far. It is obviously NOT necessary, but once you start airbrushing I would guarantee you that it'll be the next thing you buy. Helps when you need to sit the airbrush down but you still have paint in the cup. Enjoy! Again, go to that website, The Airbrush Guru for the best information. It's fantastic, seriously.

I'm not sure about foods, though imagine some exercises could be beneficial. Years back I injured my hand, nothing serious but a bit of scar tissue limited how much I could bend my finger. I ended up seeing a physical therapist that specialized in hands. Perhaps you can talk to one or just find out information through online searches for exercises to help steady your hands. I know, not a ton of help, but maybe it's a start.

In terms of things specific to mini painting, a good holder can help. I use something like this. You can also get a table mounted version which sometimes I'll use for very fine detail freehand work. That allows me to also use my other hand to help steady the brush if needed. Place the index finger of your other hand against the brush just below the bristles and apply a light amount of pressure. I think you'll find this gives you an increased amount of control.

When I paint, I find I often extend my pinky (on the hand holding the brush) and will rest it on either the figure or the figure's holder while I paint. It's something I do without thinking most of the time. It helps my hands (the one holding the figure and the one holding the brush) move together and gives me a sense of greater control.

I would say that you would only really see benefits with a higher quality air compressor if you've already got your skill using an airbrush really dialed in until then a cheaper airbrush would really suffice. I'll entirely honest I've only been airbrushing my miniatures for a couple of months now but I've had the honor of using my friends high quality compressor but I've also been using my cheap Master Compressor. If i'm being entirely honest with you at my skill level I can't even tell the slightest difference between the two. My much more skilled friend can notice a huge difference between the two compressors but again, he's been airbrushing for almost five years. Now for a beginner I am using a slightly nicer airbrush, I'm using the Iwata HP-CS. I was recommended by him that I get the nicer airbrush and the cheaper air-compressor because the fine detail work that you're almost constantly doing with miniatures, he argued that the airbrush would have much higher returns per dollar than the more expensive air-compressor. I hope that helped a little. Take that all with a grain of salt because Like I said before I'm new and these are just my personal observations.

I sincerely want to thank you for such a thorough reply! I would like to address some of your points so perhaps you can expand on them a little deeper when you have the time.

>You seem to have thinned your paints, so that's half the battle won right there. They look like they could be thinned a little bit more though, and perhaps load your brushes a little bit less.
>


I did thin the paints with small amounts of water as that seems to be the golden rule from having lurked on this sub for a few days before starting my painting, the difficulty I had this area was not really knowing how much/little to thin them and what the consistency was supposed to look like(admittedly I did not watch any youtube videos on the subject as I didnt even think about it).

>The most glaring issue I see is a lack of colour depth. Your shadows aren't particularly prominent or seem absent in some areas and there seems to be a complete lack of any highlights.
>


This was exactly what I was thinking when I was painting them and this stems from looking at the box art and thinking "wow these figures really "pop" the colors are not at all what I would expect a command team to have" and while I was painting I kept telling myself they needed to be brighter. As for shadows and highlights, I did apply nuln oil shader but I watered it down so much that it doesnt even look like its been applied. I was concerened it would make the minis too dark(i.e. the Domaru's shotgun). As for the highlights, One of the biggest issues/concepts I am having trouble wrapping my head around is the highlighting. I have watched a few videos of the procedure itself but I am having trouble mixing paint to brighten it up for highlights and then where the highlights should be applied.

> Your neatness and thoroughness are pretty good. Could use a little work but fine for a beginner.
>


Thanks! I was actually working with a set of brushes that were recommended to me that ended up being sub par in my opinion and lacked the very small brushes that were needed to get some of the very fine details. I have started to educate myself on quality brushes and the sizing numbers on what they mean.

As for the color "blocks" that had not occurred to me so thank you for pointing that out, I will definitely keep that in mind for when I start working on the next group of my army. I am not quite sure how to get those subdued shades that are present on the box art but more practice will definitely help. Thank you again for your reply!

I'm in Canada too and I just got into painting with the Reaper Bones kickstarter. Sorry in advance if this post sounds like a shill for Reaper stuff.

The Reaper online store has free shipping to Canada for orders over $35. Their prices are pretty reasonable, but they're in USD, so you'll suffer from the current crappy exchange rate.

They have a Learn to paint kit for $35 with 2 brushes and a small variety of paints which seems like a decent value.

Depending on what size brushes are in that kit, you might want to get a larger flat brush for base coats or a size 10/0 "super detail" brush. You can get brushes from Reaper or at a Michaels. I also grabbed a cheap pack of Mod Podge brushes that I don't care about wrecking.

Bones don't need priming, so I have no advice there.

I got this brush cleaner, I don't know if it's a good deal or not.

You can buy a paint palette, but you can also just use a plastic lid to get started, or make a wet palette -- easy and prevents your paints from drying out.

If there's a Games Workshop near you, you can get Citadel paints there. I ended up buying a couple of metallics and a brown wash. They come in pots, which aren't as convenient as dropper bottles.

Here are a couple of videos that helped me get started:

• Zombicide comprehensive tutorial - shows a lot of tools and steps
  
• Washes
  
• Weapons and armor
  
• Eyes
  
• Bases
  
  Also, like everyone else has said, check in at your local gaming/hobby shop :)

• *Mixing brush: Any old brush will do. You can get camel hair brushes at most craft stores.
  
• Smaller sizes usually: 1/0, 3/0, 5/0, 10/0 Red (kolinsky) sable are the best. In the US look for Windsor & Newton.
  
• Honestly, if you are only painting a few minis at a time, get a brush-on primer. Vallejo Surface primer, Stynylrez from Badger or Testors Model Master acrylic primer. (especially use brush-on if you are painting reaper bones). If you are doing a lot of models at one time, get a cheap external-mix airbrush.
  
• Finishes: I've used dozens of brands over the years. Currently I use Krylon Matte-Sealer in an Aerosol can. Army painter Anti-shine is also good. 3-4 light coats will protect your models just fine. (beware of the gloss first then matte after myth, it does not protect any better than 3-4 coats of good matte sealer.).
  
• Work holder: I use this most of the time: Universal Peg-vise
  Otherwise I just use blu-tac (poster adhesive) and those little ketchup cups from fast food places.
  
• brush care: brush cleaners and brush soaps are good. They help you keep the point on your round brushes.
  
• Mold Lines: for metal minis, a hobby knife and small files. For plastic minis, get a mold line cleaner or you can cut them off with your hobby knife. A pair of sprue cutters is good if you are doing plastic minis that are on sprues.
  
• Storage: this is wide open. I personally use the Chessex figure cases for most minis. Portable Warfare, KR Multicase and Battlefoam also make quality storage/transport cases. If you want to display your models, I can recommend display cases used for shot glasses, baseballs, golf balls, etc. For the tools & supplies, Just use a small toolbox that can hold everything. As your hobby grows, so will the size of your tool-box.
  
• Agitators: depends on the brand of paints. Reaper paints come with agitators. Other wise, use small GLASS balls. Steel will react with the paint and rust, other metals such as brass, copper and stainless steel will also react with the paint. If you are not using dropper-bottle paints, just stir the paint with the back of a brush.
  
• Flow Improver/Flow Aid: while not necessary, some paints work better thinned (you do not need to thin all your paints when you use them). It also depends on your painting style/technique. I use Liquitex Flow-Aid (you mix it 1:20 with water to make your flow-improver solution). It is used in both brush and airbrush applications. For washes, you can't get better than Games Workshop's Shades line.
  
• Palette: Many painters use a wet-palette. I prefer an ice-palette. (use a metal dimpled-palette stuck on top of a freezer-pack).
  

Hi! Thank both you and /u/redpiano for the replies, I really appreciate it. If you both don't mind I have a couple more questions. Thank you again for taking the time to help me out, it's put me at ease more here and I'm thinking this might not be so bad. (Also pricing HEPA filters because of these posts which is probably a good idea anyway.)

When you say "put an air filter over it", do you mean literally just buying something like this and taping it over the end of the flat slot portion of the tube? I'm a little confused on that.

Regarding thinner, is Vallejo considered safe? I picked basically Vallejo everything just in case there was any cross-brand problems. Also, I take it that alcohol paints and lacquers are considered harmful because of the noxious fumes as well? I use Tamiya spray primer, it's actually what I have the organic vapor mask for, and I know from experience that it's pretty wicked and it sticks around for a long time (I went outside during the summer months and fall but I've had to commandeer the bathroom with an open window in the next room in the past month and a half and just warn people to stay out for a half an hour or so afterwards). I usually end up having to shut the drying pieces in my laundry closet because they are just that potent. (Somewhat related, does anybody know if Stynylrez is any less noxious? I've been trying in vain to find a primer that is as smooth as Tamiya to no avail, but I was hoping that thinning this and spraying it through an airbrush might take care of that.)

There are a couple things I can't avoid using alcohol based paints for (unless anybody knows water based alternatives to things like Tamiya's transparent colours, particularly their red), but I was hoping to just set up a second booth in my other room to do those in short doses.

(Also, this is alright for painting, right, as long as I'm not using stuff with fumes? Like I mentioned before I'd really rather not use up my expensive cartridges for my organic vapor mask too quickly if at all possible.)

The campus housing and limited budget will make this tough. I would recommend a badger patriot 105 airbrush, generic air compressor with tank, and a airbrushing booth off amazon. It might be a bit noisy, but I think that would be your ideal "best" budget(ish) setup. You could go cheaper, but I personally believe that the quality would suffer.

EDIT - if you must go cheaper, I have used this airbrush with alright success. Its definitely a budget brush. My Iwata HP-CS is a much much nicer tool. My friend has the patriot, and I believe you get what you pay for with airbrushes. The tolerances on a nicer brush just make a world of difference.

I love my series 7 #1. It's expensive, but completely worth it.

I just got a magnifying visor with a couple LED lights, and it's been extremely helpful. The lighting is especially nice when I'm just at the kitchen table. Together with the series #7, I can get really fine, accurate strokes.

Liquidtex matte medium has been fun to play with since it lets me thin paint for washes past what you can get with tap water.

I can offer a little feedback, not a lot though, sorry. I've only ever used two types of crackle:

Agrellan Earth works well. It creates a rather fine web of cracks as it dries. A little wash, a little drybrushing, and its done. I used it on the base on the right in this picture.

I have also used Tim Holtz Distress Crackle Paint in Clear Rock Candy. This stuff is less like paint and more like a thin gel. I like it though - it gives it more versatility. Layer it on thin and you get fine cracks. Gob it on thickly and you get deeper, more dramatic cracks - larger than I've manage to get with Agrellan Earth. I got clear so I could do nifty ice effects like on this miniature..

You could probably mix it with paint, or even let it dry real good and paint over. I washed and drybrushed it for the ice, so I know paint will stick pretty well if you wanted to paint it desert colors.

Testors Matte spray, I assume? You said I should do matte followed by gloss, but I read that I should do gloss (for durability) followed by matte (for non-shiny appearance). Which is best?

I may have to go with Vallejo paints if I can find them, as they're frequently recommended and come in droppers (which I think will be less fuss).

I read that cheap brushes will be more frustrating than they are worth, and since my free time is scarce, I planned on using nicer brushes. What would you recommend for a cheap brush set that's not a pain in the ass? Something like [this on Amazon, $15] (https://www.amazon.com/Detail-Paint-Brush-Set-Watercolor/dp/B010QLOJ3G)?

I like these. http://www.amazon.com/Games-Workshop-Citadel-Shade-Paint/dp/B00KOD3FM8 but always with the knowledge that I can make my own with about a 1:8 ratio of any paints that I have. Use the color wheel as your guide. Cool colors recede while warm colors pop out. Try experimenting with different colors and see what effects you get, and what makes you happy. On faces I use a bit of blue in the shadows to help them recess, while using red in other places to help it come out.

Also, I typically repeat 3 and 4 multiple times.

I've been eyeing this set of sable Da Vinci brushes for awhile. At its current <$30 price it's pretty tempting. The #4 & 6 might not see much use @ 28mm scale but for vehicles or larger stuff like gunpla if you are into that you'd certainly use them.

I'm still a noob but I'm pretty sure most people would tell you not to bother with anything smaller than a 0, and certainly not with one brush for every step between 0 and 3/0.

The Master airbrush kit with a compressor is probably the entry level kit you'd want. The compressor with that kit is also known as the AS-186 compressor, and is quite a capable compressor.

The airbrush is probably nothing fancy, but a basic cheap airbrush is a good starter since you can learn how they work, how to maintain them, and most importantly not give a damn the first time you bend a needle.

Once you've got some practice under your belt, move up to a reputable artists airbrush since they are better made. You won't actually see much of a difference in the quality of the spray in a cheap airbrush to an expensive one, expensive ones typically have more options in components and are easier to source replacement parts for.

I moved up from a no-name ebay airbrush to an Iwata, and immediately bought the parts to change the Iwata airbrush to a 0.5mm needle instead of its stock 0.3mm.

Ooooh thanks! I'll have to watch that video! I just ordered the Citadel set as well. I'll do a couple of side-by-sides and post the results. Hopefully this weekend, since I'm still waiting for them to come in the mail.

Thanks for giving me the motivation!

Not Flow Aid - Medium. Flow Aid is great for airbrushing, Medium is what you want for washes and glazes.

https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Matte-Medium-8-Ounce/dp/B000IYWYNE

Edit: Flow Aid can help slow down drying times, which is nice for things like wet blending, but for making your own washes, you are going to want a medium. You can always add Flow Aid to your wash concoction as well, it won't hurt it. Lukes Aps has a good video on how to mix up your own washes. You can always use paints instead of the inks (inks are just MUCH more concentrated, it is pure pigment essentially): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6vFcRT2wOh8&t=674s

Thank you, I'm glad you liked it. They're not my highest quality work but I'd call them good enough for tabletop. Especially if I was doing an army of these. This is the vice I use. It's pretty handy, especially for filming.

So this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Citadel-Shade-Paint-Games-Workshop/dp/B00KOD3FM8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519681521&sr=8-4&keywords=paint+wash

or this?:

https://smile.amazon.com/Nontoxic-Miniature-Washes-Dropper-Bottles/dp/B0714QL55V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519681988&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=army+painter+wash&psc=1

For primer is there a benefit to using paint on, vs spray? I think the bases will be separate from my pieces. So I would think a spray can of like, white, grey, and black would be my best bet?

I've been using these and they're great - good tools make you value them, and go that extra length to make sure that they're looked after.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Detail-Paint-Brush-Set-MyArtscapeTM/dp/B010QLOJ3G/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref_=sspa_mw_detail_0

These are pretty awesome. My brother owns a few of them for all of his painted Descent and Imperial Assault stuff so I can vouch for their quality, and they're definitely nice. Going to pick some up for myself in a few days. Also, they have a zipper bag that you can get instead of the default cardboard one which I'd recommend.

Oh man, I wish I were crafty and skilled enough to machine metal...

My Fiancee got this for me as a gift and I love it, here's the link: Jewelers Universal Holder

I was looking at mini holders and couldn't find anything I liked. The top is a hex grid with circular holes for pegs and you can adjust it for all kinds of base sizes under 50mm

There's even a Desktop Version of the Jewelers Holder (though its a little more expensive)

I bought this recently and I am really pleased with it. Great value for the money.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071GWM9QN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/MagniPros-Illuminated-Headband-Magnifier-Detachable/dp/B071GWM9QN/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1537301259&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=magnifying+glasses+with+light&psc=1
This has 5 focal lengths so it could be good for getting the right one for you, it's not very expensive and they seem to be pretty popular for model painting

I got myself a set of these.

da Vinci Watercolor Series 5359 Paint Brush Set, Russian Red Sable, Multiple Sizes, 5 Brushes

I use these in conjunction with the Masters brush cleaner mentioned by others.

As long as you clean them after each use and shape the brush back to the point, they'll keep a good long time.

Edit:

I'd like to add that the synthetic brushes will all eventually do this just by the nature of the material they're made from. I fought with my brushes the same way you are now. I eventually got fed up and dropped the money for a set of natural bristles.

Thank you for the response. How much time do you usually airbrush for? Do you do a lot of detail work with it? I was thinking I would just be doing base coats and the initial highlights, then finishing with a brush.

These Master or Paasche tanks seem good. I am concerned about the 1 star reviews though, seems like they can break.

For now I think I am going to try my Hitachi and see how it goes. I can always get an airbrush compressor later.

This one and the one that comes with the air tank are on my amazon wishlist and I'm watching a ton of videos to make sure it will be a good fit for me.

Airtank airbrush

This one is not cheap, but it’s really great:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Iwata-Medea-Eclipse-Action-Airbrush-Gravity/dp/B000BQKFAI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=iwata+eclipse+hp-cs&qid=1567627674&s=gateway&sprefix=iwata+&sr=8-1

Get an airbrush. Nothing fancy is really needed, just something that works. I used a cheaper airbrush for a long time before I felt I needed an upgrade. I started with this brush: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KJK130/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and this compressor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038D38AA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I still use that compressor, and now use this brush: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EB569ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

edit: I would also point out that this was my first model that I had even attempted this sort of shading on. It turned out well, but I got a lot of my inspiration and technique from this guy: https://youtu.be/ynW6ZOj3wuA

Despite what people say you should always use a respirator and not a dust mask. Atomized acrylic paint and air brush cleaner are no where near save to breath. I would suggest this one, or this one.

It is save to say that they are non toxic when used with your paint brush, but you don't want to atomize it and breath it in. Like you don't want to huff anything out of a spray can.

I've found I don't use my GW & PP paints nearly as much as my Reaper paints (yay kickstarter), simply because of form factor. So I bought these: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00V2C0C7Q/

I'm slowly migrating my paints to droppers this way. When I want to use a color I have from GW / PP, I pour the bottle in. I'm sure I'm wasting some because I can't pour it all out, but I'm actually using them again. So yay!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0069FC9FO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are Red Sable (not the more expensive Kolinsky Sable) brushes, but it's $29 for a set of 5 and there's a 40% off coupon. I already ordered mine, so fingers crossed that it's a good product!

Also, if you really like him... get him an airbrush! I love mine, I have three in fact, a really cheap one (Master G22), a not so cheap one (Iwata Neo), and a medium grade (Badger Patriot Arrow).

If you get him an airbrush, definitely pick the ones with the self centering nozzle, instead of the little bastard nozzle you have to screw on and off, and lose, or break, or DAMMIT I LOST IT!

I just recently transferred my citadel paints to these kind of bottles https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00V2C0C7Q , worked perfectly.

Feldherr Storage Box for 72 miniatures plus tanks or monster https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W98CV26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Lj6ezb7W6B1EY

These are great for the price.

12oz bottles for medium and flow aid (though these do NOT have caps, so personally I'd find something else at a local Michael's or art supply store).

30ml bottles - these are perfect for individual washes.

I picked up something very similar to this a little while ago:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01984G4SU/ref=sspa_mw_detail_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and one of these.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Eclipse-0-35mm-Action-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B000BQKFAI?SubscriptionId=AKIAIG7C236P5SNXU2FA&&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000BQKFAI&tag=stucuk-21&ascsubtag=5c90045cdccc2801f0688ca9

I set up my desk with cardboard sheets and news paper, and ware a respirator. with the window open. this setup works fine. it's just a bit of a pain to set up and pack up. I love using it and the results I get.

the iwata is pretty damn awesome, but the cheap brush that came with the compressor can do 95% of the job, so the iwata is kinda overkill when ur a beginner

I've had this set of 30ml and the 2014 version of this set of 15ml for over two years now, and haven't had a problem with either. They've stayed sealed and haven't dried out, no issues with either the tips or the lids. I would recommend the ones I bought from Amazon. I may have gotten really lucky, but so far, so good.

I would highly recommend you get a basic airbrush station. Masters makes a very simple airbrush station that while not perfect does help considerably, https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Lighting-Extension/dp/B00NLQ019A (there's are a few versions, one without tubing and another without light.) Alternatively you could put it near a window and have a fan blowing it out. Either way you really don't want to breath that aerosolized paint/primer/varnish and it lingers for quite a while, even after you've stopped smelling it.

As for flock storage I use some plastic Really Useful Boxes that I've glued some foam sheet to the top inside of the lid of to stop it from spilling out when closed.

Is this air brush generally considered a good one for minipainting? Does anywhere have it cheaper than amazon?

That compressor doesn't look like it's got a tank on it, so it'll be running the entire time you're airbrushing. I've heard good things about this one.


Also, don't forget a respirator, though you'll probably want the round pink filters on it(the P100 I believe).

Master Performance G22 Airbrushing System Kit with Master TC-20T Compressor with Air Tank, Air Hose & G22 Dual-Action Gravity Feed Airbrush https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0017640RK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jUvhAb1FG863K

It's that I also have cleaning fluid, thinning stuff, and a pot/stand. But that's pretty much it.

I'll save you $10 immediately: A cork, and bluetac. Now you don't need to spend 9.45 on a painting handle. You also probably don't need to be starting with wet palette. A 8 colour ink set is also probably overkill, stick to black and brown and be done with it.

And I suggest swapping your brush set to this: https://www.amazon.com/MyArtscape-Detail-Paint-Brush-Set/dp/B010QLOJ3G

4 rounds, 4 liners, 2 flats.

I purchased this Donegan OptiVisor Headband Magnifier -- You can get different magnification of lenses. I find it to be light weight and easy to pop up and you can use them with or without glasses without issue. Also, they are optically correct in that they show no distortion.

heap kit from eBay here. A better airbrush is the Badger Patriot 105. You can use the compressor with either airbrush. The Patriot will do your priming, base coating, color blocks, and beyond if you want to more fully use the airbrush as a tool. Check out YouTube videos from Doctor Fausts Painting clinic, Vince Venturella, and Next Level Painting to see what is possible with an airbrush.

I'd recommend stepping up to the model with a tank if you can spare the extra $40.

https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-TC-20T-AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-REGULATOR/dp/B0038D38AA/ref=sr_1_13?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1482854361&sr=1-13&keywords=Master+Airbrush+High+Performance+Airbrush+Air+Compressor+with+tank

One thing to look at that hasn't been mentioned, I have one particular red sable brush (it's a Blick Masterstroke) that splits like that when it gets too much water in it (and has from day one).

If technique related fixes and brush soap don't get the job done, try picking up a liquid brush cleaner and see if that gets the job done.

Saw this in the recommended list on that page, maybe this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RB547G/ref=pd_aw_sim_328_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D8SD3MYP8QTGYFD1P24Y&dpPl=1&dpID=51aKAxgb39L

These are the ones I bought and they work fine! I don't have any basis of comparison, though, since these are the only ones I've used.

Shade set

Having little pots of most is fine --- I mostly use nuln and agrax.

You really want a spray booth not so much to avoid spraying other objects, but to avoid inhaling paint particles that can fly back into your face.


Here is what my buddy bought it's very compact and works well, I've used it myself as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Donegan-Optical-OptiVISOR-Headband-Magnifier/dp/B0068OSIIS

It's for all sorts of fine work. I've used it for soldering, jewelry, and mini painting.

This is a copied comment on paint thinning from a previous post of mine:

Here's what I do. It saves paint and gets a nice paint consistency.

Buy some 30ml dropper bottles (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026K1YCK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_hY2ryb932CQ8S)

Fill a dropper with distilled water (available at most grocery stores)

I use a piece of poster board cut into small 6"X4" "pallettes"

I put down a drop (two max) of paint. If using paint that isn't in droppers it's usually a brushfull or so... Or you can move your paint into the dropper bottles mentioned above)

I then put down an equal amount of water right on top of the paint and mix until it's all combined, try to avoid too much spreading around on the paper to minimize wasted paint.

Each time I draw paint onto my brush from the paper I then wipe a bit of it off on the paper to make sure my brush isn't over loaded.

The paper pallettes are nice because you never have to mess with cleaning them. Use the paint you need and when the sheet is full throw it out (or sometimes you can even flip it over and use the back to get a little more life out of them)

I vote airbrush. It really was a game changer for me. You can pick up a Badger Patriot 105 for ~$60 (https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-Patriot-Airbrush/dp/B002W84GTO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1550073742&sr=8-1&keywords=badger+patriot+105). I use a $50 compressor from Walmart, but if you want something a bit quieter you may creep over your budget...

No.36's are the line you want if you're going with Da Vinci (recommended in the /r/minipainting buyer's guide). You can get a pack of 5 brushes sizes 0, 1, 2, 4, and 6 on Amazon for half the price of the same pack at Blick. Plus it's sold by Amazon, so you know it's not faked.

Your welcome.

You can decant the paint into bottles. Below is the bottles I've been using.
https://www.amazon.com/TOPWEL-Excellent-Eyedrops-Dropping-Removable/dp/B00V2C0C7Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=paint+dropper&qid=1574922081&sprefix=paint+drop&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/MagniPros-Illuminated-Headband-Magnifier-Detachable/dp/B071GWM9QN/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=jewelers+goggles&qid=1555773026&s=gateway&sr=8-2

One of these

I'm using this Master G233...nothing fancy...but it gets the job done!

Tip: Liquitex Matte Medium costs a fraction of the price per mL compared to Lahmian Medium, and the bottle will last forever.

Acrylic medium

Another

Or just buy one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Work-Holder-CLAMP-VISE/dp/B000RB547G/

or

https://www.amazon.com/Hand-Free-Universal-Holder-HOL-173-00/dp/B0058EDVXQ/

Here's a holder I've seen recommended.

Ranger TDC31888 Tim Holtz... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FY5HCW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Have you thought about picking up an Optivisor or a Jeweler's Loup?

https://www.amazon.com/Donegan-Optical-OptiVISOR-Headband-Magnifier/dp/B0068OSIIS?th=1&psc=1

I painted the base with a variety of shades of blue and then put a very thick layer of distressed crackle paint clear rock candy on it. Once dry I did a heavy dry brush of white over it. The crack pattern seems to depend on how heavy the crackle paint is applied and it there was anything on the base before the paint was applied.

https://www.amazon.com/Holtz-Distress-Crackle-Paint-Clear/dp/B005FY5HCW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500396638&sr=8-2&keywords=distressed+paint

Tim Holtz Distress Crackle Paint 4 oz Jar, Clear Rock Candy https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FY5HCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sF2gAb0DNZFKX

This was suggested as a first setup

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Performance-Airbrushing-Dual-Action-Airbrush/dp/B0017640RK/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=master+compressor&qid=1550267610&s=gateway&sr=8-16

I was going to get a better brush because I hate buying starter sets then buying again I'd rather pay once

Just get a bottle of this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IYWYNE

You can find equivalent matte mediums from Windsor & Newton, Golden, Vallejo (they make artist paint too) and a bunch of others. Unlike paints, there are no "craft" brands selling medium that you want to avoid.

Search ebay for "TC-20T" - currently there's a Zeny listed that comes with the hose, regulator, water trap, and the tank (that's the one I got). You can catch them on sale for as low as $30 every now and then, but even at $60 it's a steal. It's one of the same models re-badged by several other companies like Masters/Sparmax/PointZero/etc for a lot more (ie: https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-TC-20T-AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-REGULATOR/dp/B0038D38AA/).

Go for it mate! I went with this one:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Eclipse-0-35mm-Action-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B000BQKFAI

Seems to be a fairly solid all rounder, really struggled to find a bad word said about it.

I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M72W5OV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And added this airbrush after the ones in the kit broke due to my clumsiness/their fragility.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KJDXHQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I was also fortunate enough to find Iwata needles/nozzle kits on clearance at Michaels, but they're about $30 new. That's the only real precision machined part in an airbrush and has the biggest impact on performance.

All told, that would bring you in just under $150. If I were to get something else for the setup, it'd be an air tank to keep the compressor from turning on/off repeatedly through the project.

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I don't have a problem with overheating because I don't do marathon sessions of airbrushing. Dial down the pressure on the airbrush to about 15psi such that the compressor maintains pressure when you activate the brush. You don't want a burst of higher pressured air followed by lower pressured air. The needle shouldn't move off of 15 when you pull the trigger.