(Part 2) Top products from r/minipainting

Been painting a few years and lurking here forever, here's my advice:

> Mixing Brush: I am told that you should not mix paint with your primary brushes. Where can I buy a cheap brush for mixing, and anything special I need?

If I'm already using a "larger" brush (1 or higher) I'll mix with my good brushes and just be mindful of how far up the ferrule I am or use the back of the brush. If I'm using a detail brush I'll use a super cheap synthetic 2 or 3. Look on amazon or at a local art chain (Michaels) for cheap student grade packs of round brushes. You'll end up using these for terrain, PVA glue, and all sorts of other things.

> More Brushes: My kit came with a 2 flat and 0 round. What other brushes will I need, and what in your opinion is a good brand to buy? Any set that covers all the basics? Although I am new to painting, I'd like something that will last me and be quality. They sell SoHo brushes in my local store, which look like they are great quality. Any users here?

This topic can get pretty involved. Brushes have a lifespan so if you're new to the hobby I wouldn't recommend dropping money on higher end Kolinsky brushes like W&N Series 7 or daVinci Maestro. For a new painter I recommend Winsor & Newton's University series and Army Painter's Wargamer brushes. The W&N University brushes are higher than average student quality acrylic brushes that can be abused. They're great for basecoating with thicker mixes. The Wargamer brushes are a cheap intro into real sable hair so you can get started at layering with thinned paints.

> Primers: This is a big ? for me --- Spray primers, basic black white and grey? Which ones, what brand, etc... Really unsure what is recommended here, as in a store there are so many, but hoping /r/minipainting can help as we are all painting the same stuff. Would love some specific product recommendations here.

For the most part, you have three options: spray cans, brush-on, and airbrush. I can't really recommend spray primers - they require ventilation, have trouble with humidity, and can only be sprayed at one consistency. Many of the hobby spray cans advertised for basing your minis aren't actual primers. Brush-on primers are the most economical but run the risk of losing detail on the mini if applied heavily. Airbrushing is my preferred method using either Mr. Hobby's Mr. Surfacer 1500 thinned with Mr. Color Leveling Thinner for highly detailed minis, or Vallejo Primer for tabletop quality minis. Vallejo Primer's are acrylic and polyurethane so they're more protective but can sometimes take away detail.

> Finish: I saw a few videos where they spray some 'protective' finish on a product, I believe there are matte finishes as well as gloss finishes? Can I get any 'matte/gloss finish' product, or are there certain ones for miniatures?

Same three options as priming. If your minis are going to be handled often, I recommend a glossy coat then a matte coat. Glossy varnishes are stronger than matte varnishes, so this combo will give you the most protection. You are more likely to lose some detail this way. If your minis are for display only you can skip the varnish and just be careful. Dried acrylics are basically thin plastic so they have some durability on their own. Brand-wise I airbrush using Liquitex Professional gloss and matte varnishes, thinned with Vallejo airbrush thinner and a drop or two of Vallejo flow-improver. Vallejo varnishes are also good but Liquitex offers the best bang for your buck.

> Mini Holders: I found this product which looks amazing, but is not available until late 2017 since the Kickstarter has ended. Are there any similar products that someone could recommend, or should I just go with something very simple? Would love to hear some ideas.

I use an old Citadel paint pot and white poster tack to stick to the bottom of the base. If you want to paint individual parts, heat the tip of a needle/pin with a lighter, press it gently into the glue joint of the mini (the hole will be hidden later), then press the other side of the needle into a wine cork or similar.

> Brush Care: I got a "masters" paste from a store that I was told to rinse and swirl my brushes in after painting. Any other tips or is this okay?

Master's is the best option, just make sure you follow the directions and use warm water for best results. You can also get a small bottle of W&N Brusher Cleaner and Restorer to have on reserve if you accidentally let paint dry on one of your better brushes. If it's a cheap or synthetic brush you can clean it with original Windex (WITHOUT Ammonia-D) or Vallejo airbrush cleaner, followed by a wash with Master's.

> Carving/Scraping tools: I know some minis need to be cut from a sheet and some have mold lines that need to be cleaned. How is this done and what tools are needed?

Get a decent pair of sprue cutters - I recommend these. You should be able to find these for $10 at a local hobby store. For plastic minis you should be fine with just an X-acto or similar knife for getting rid of mold lines - just run the blade mostly perpendicular to the line and "shave" it gently.

> Storage Box: For all the little things that come along with painting, what do you use/recommend to store everything in?

A coffee mug works fine as a brush holder. You can try a hardware store for all sorts of containers if you're traveling with paints. Otherwise desk space and some imagination (spice racks) or money (official paint stand) are all you need.

> Paint Agitators: I was told to get some steel balls and put them in every paint bottle I have. It's okay to leave them in there. Would these work, or any concerns?

Please do not use steel ball bearings. You can attempt to buy "marine grade" ball bearings but unless it's reputable and expensive they are still likely going to rust and ruin your paint. I use hematite beads for necklaces for my paints. 4mm for dropper bottles and 6mm for pots. You can get them cheaper at Michaels w/ a coupon and they're inert so they won't stain your paints.

> Flow Improver: Thoughts? I was told to mix this into my washes. How much should I add, one drop? Is this product okay, or is this only for airbrushing?

Flow improver is generally used for airbrushing to extend the drying time and prevent clogs. Fluid retarder in the form of actual art supply from W&N or Liquitex, Vallejo's Glaze Medium, or Games Workshop's Lahmian Medium are what you're looking for. These can all be used to turn a normal paint into a wash (heavy dilution), or can be used to extend drying time for wet blending (light dilution). I can't give you exact ratios as each paint company, each color, and the age of your paints will dictate that. Trial and error is the only method here.


One thing that hasn't been mentioned yet is a wet palette. It will save you a lot of headache when learning to wet blend and will let you save mixed paints for many days. You can get one for cheap and use either the papers that come with it or kitchen parchment paper. Both will yield different results so play around with both. Be sure to use distilled water or you're likely to get some funk from mold after a couple days.

I can't speak on behalf of Reaper's sealer, but I know that sealing your minis is vital if they're going to be anything besides a show piece.

Matte, gloss, and satin varnishes form a protective coat over the paint. This means that you can handle your mini without worrying too much about rubbing the paint of the surface, or having the oils in your hands interacting with the paints in an undesired way.

Also, the different types of varnishes can be used to create interesting finishes on your mini. For instance, gloss varnishes can give the mini a "wet" or "shiny" look, which is nice for muddy ground or very shiny armor.

I don't want to toot my own horn, but if you want an example of how varnishes look on a finished mini, I've painted up a manticore that uses matte and gloss varnish on different parts to give it an interesting look between the fur and the carapace.

If you're looking to start using varnishes to protect your minis, I would suggest getting started with Liquitex. They make affordable varnishes of pretty much every finish and size, and they're probably cheaper than Reaper's stuff if you're just getting started.

• *Mixing brush: Any old brush will do. You can get camel hair brushes at most craft stores.
  
• Smaller sizes usually: 1/0, 3/0, 5/0, 10/0 Red (kolinsky) sable are the best. In the US look for Windsor & Newton.
  
• Honestly, if you are only painting a few minis at a time, get a brush-on primer. Vallejo Surface primer, Stynylrez from Badger or Testors Model Master acrylic primer. (especially use brush-on if you are painting reaper bones). If you are doing a lot of models at one time, get a cheap external-mix airbrush.
  
• Finishes: I've used dozens of brands over the years. Currently I use Krylon Matte-Sealer in an Aerosol can. Army painter Anti-shine is also good. 3-4 light coats will protect your models just fine. (beware of the gloss first then matte after myth, it does not protect any better than 3-4 coats of good matte sealer.).
  
• Work holder: I use this most of the time: Universal Peg-vise
  Otherwise I just use blu-tac (poster adhesive) and those little ketchup cups from fast food places.
  
• brush care: brush cleaners and brush soaps are good. They help you keep the point on your round brushes.
  
• Mold Lines: for metal minis, a hobby knife and small files. For plastic minis, get a mold line cleaner or you can cut them off with your hobby knife. A pair of sprue cutters is good if you are doing plastic minis that are on sprues.
  
• Storage: this is wide open. I personally use the Chessex figure cases for most minis. Portable Warfare, KR Multicase and Battlefoam also make quality storage/transport cases. If you want to display your models, I can recommend display cases used for shot glasses, baseballs, golf balls, etc. For the tools & supplies, Just use a small toolbox that can hold everything. As your hobby grows, so will the size of your tool-box.
  
• Agitators: depends on the brand of paints. Reaper paints come with agitators. Other wise, use small GLASS balls. Steel will react with the paint and rust, other metals such as brass, copper and stainless steel will also react with the paint. If you are not using dropper-bottle paints, just stir the paint with the back of a brush.
  
• Flow Improver/Flow Aid: while not necessary, some paints work better thinned (you do not need to thin all your paints when you use them). It also depends on your painting style/technique. I use Liquitex Flow-Aid (you mix it 1:20 with water to make your flow-improver solution). It is used in both brush and airbrush applications. For washes, you can't get better than Games Workshop's Shades line.
  
• Palette: Many painters use a wet-palette. I prefer an ice-palette. (use a metal dimpled-palette stuck on top of a freezer-pack).
  

I don't use any magnifiers, but desk lamp wise I grabbed this a while ago and really like it.

The max brightness is very crisp, clean light. The lower settings are good for other normal desk lamp uses as well when I'm not painting.

I like these. http://www.amazon.com/Games-Workshop-Citadel-Shade-Paint/dp/B00KOD3FM8 but always with the knowledge that I can make my own with about a 1:8 ratio of any paints that I have. Use the color wheel as your guide. Cool colors recede while warm colors pop out. Try experimenting with different colors and see what effects you get, and what makes you happy. On faces I use a bit of blue in the shadows to help them recess, while using red in other places to help it come out.

Also, I typically repeat 3 and 4 multiple times.

I have a basic table and chair with this LED lamp as the light source. It's very adjustable and has a low footprint so I can make sure I'm not hunched over the table while also having a plethora of brightness / wavelength options to fit my needs. There are brighter lamps available, but I liked the metal construction and the fact that the lamp can be twisted at the top arm. If those factors aren't important to you, this one is cheaper and brighter.

As far as making sure your back isn't wrecked, that can probably be fixed by better posture. Instead of hunching over the table to get a closer look at the figure, sit upright and hold the figure closer to your face. I imagine table height would be the most important factor there since I rest my elbows on the table when I paint, so the table being the correct height means I can sit upright and hold the figure in front of my face.

Definitely a little more expensive, but I highly recommend people try out a vortex mixer. They were originally made for lab work to easily and quietly mix liquids, you just push what ever you want on to the rubber top and it vibrates. I know several tattoo artists and laquerists who use them, and I ended up buying one for my paints. Absolutely amazing.

Not super cheap but this will do the trick. You can also use poster tack (YMV with different brands). Maybe spray a coat of matte varnish on before applying tape/putty just to be safe.

Masking fluid could work too, but it has some caveats. You need to paint it on pretty thick, and don't let it sit for too long or it will be hard to get it all off. Its better for paint chips and small things, I don't recommend it for hoards of tyranids.

Masking is one of the drawbacks of airbrushing. You might be better off using a brush for the red, then carefully airbrushing highlights with just some quick masking. Then go back and touch up the blue with a brush if needed.

I wanted to mention the figure is from the Monster Action Figure Bucket I purchase on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W5WSN5A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for the sole purpose of having figures I could practice on cheaply. They are extremely cheap with mold lines all over but perfect for getting back into painting. If anyone has any tips on inexpensive minis which are perfect for practice, please let me know.

Ooooh thanks! I'll have to watch that video! I just ordered the Citadel set as well. I'll do a couple of side-by-sides and post the results. Hopefully this weekend, since I'm still waiting for them to come in the mail.

Thanks for giving me the motivation!

Here's the best advice I got when I started. You only get better by doing it a lot. Get some figures that you can learn on. I suggest some crappy action figures or cheap junk for a game. If they look bad or you mess up trying a new thing, who cares? Eventually they will start coming out the way you wanted them to.

Next, read this subreddit's FAQ. I wish I had done that a lot sooner. It's full of good info.

Now go watch some YouTube videos while you practice, practice, practice. u/dvdbradford is giving you the basics of thining your paint, so listen. You'll find that's what everyone is doing in those videos. And paint in layers. Base coat, wash, highlight and detail.

My friend, let me introduce you to the Vortex Mixer. As Coyotebd said, it does the job super well, no matter what paint you are using. It is seconds and its mixed. Personally for me, Vallejo has been the hardest for me to mix up, some times the colors separate a little and its hard to get them all mixed up again. The mixer took care of that in seconds. Get one if all you have is dropper bottles, but it works well with GW also, but make sure the lid is nice and tight.

I'm not OP, but it looks like an airbrush station which is purchasable on Amazon. Something like https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Portable-Painting-T-shirts/dp/B00BMUH8L6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=airbrush+station&qid=1566241870&s=gateway&sr=8-4 . Hope this helps!

I would guess you would want something like this.

If you want fairly cost effective good looking skeletons the Runewars reanimated packs offer a pretty good value I think, not as good as what Warlord Games has though.

There's also these from Secret Weapon which seem maybe a little pricey but comes already disassembled for you! the Sack o Skulls particularly might be helpful, $15 for ~50 skulls

Do you perhaps know how GW's current plastic glue works? I've used the really old one that came with a brush (like tamiya's glues), that one melted the plastic slightly in which case 'removing it' doesn't do anything since it's already destroyed detail. In this case you may need to resculpt the detail yourself.

Also don't use any glue debonder/remover, they are acetone based...and acetone will eat plastic.

Your best bet may be isopropyl alcohol at 99% diluted with water. Though even this can melt plastic but is far less reactive then any other remover like acetone/turps/spirits. Trythis at your own risk really. Sorry can't really be much help. In the future you may want to try something like this, it's thin but easier to manipulate since it has a brush.

I just bought this set of horror monster miniatures they are pretty big at about 2" tall each. 100 will give you plenty to have her practice on. And they're fun cartoon-y monsters like mummies, Dracula, godzillas, and more. They come pre-based, and pretty much you just need to wash, prime, then paint.

I agree with the suggestion. I got this kit with the smaller compressor and its worked beautifully for me, but if you have a gift card go for the better compressor!

The one I bought has the blue and yellow separated, but it's not unlikely that it's from the same origin point. I don't buy in bulk because I really don't use a whole lot of it and I have limited hobby storage space in my apartment.

FYI, my related links on that Amazon page had this one listed which is from a good quality brand, and it's a significantly better price by weight. Generally, if an epoxy putty isn't branded by a games company, the price is more reasonable.

So this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Citadel-Shade-Paint-Games-Workshop/dp/B00KOD3FM8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1519681521&sr=8-4&keywords=paint+wash

or this?:

https://smile.amazon.com/Nontoxic-Miniature-Washes-Dropper-Bottles/dp/B0714QL55V/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519681988&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=army+painter+wash&psc=1

For primer is there a benefit to using paint on, vs spray? I think the bases will be separate from my pieces. So I would think a spray can of like, white, grey, and black would be my best bet?

Like /u/Kalranya states. Some of the paint is drying before it hit the model.

While I'm not an expert, I've now used about a dozen different color primers from Army Painter and Citadel. While heat and humidity might have something to do with it...

In the end it has everything to do with how far you are from the model. Each can is different. On the same day I could be the exact same distance away, and one can will do it, while the other won't.

Short and moving bursts at 4"-6" (much closer than the cans seem to recommend) that's how I avoid it. At that range you really need short bursts and to keep moving. Otherwise you risk the other issue with spray primers, overspray and loosing detail.

I now start with a test the back of the model. If it's a touch grainy then I get even closer. If I'm overspraying it, then I need to backup. Alternatively, when I'm doing a special character or trying a new color primer. I will prime a throw away model first to see how the can is behaving. Somrthing like this https://www.amazon.com/Monster-Action-Figure-Bucket-Frankenstein/dp/B00W5WSN5A/
Allows you to do a quick pass before your important character models. Also makes good test swatches to see what the colored primer really looks like, and test the actual colors of your base layers or shades on a primed 3d model instead of a sheet of paper/pallet.

I just remembered Amazon also has bucket o' minis like this. Are they to 28mm scale? Usually not, but the kids can paint them to their hearts desire and after you seal the paint in they can take them home with them. Don't have to face wee little tykes running off with a 5$ mini or losing them in couch cushions.

Sure thing. This is the pin vise I used, including the 3mm bit. The 5mm bit I used is just a regular titanium drill bit, turned by hand, and you can get that on Amazon or at any hardware store. You'll need superglue to affix the magnets (any will work), and Kneadatite/green stuff to fill gaps. Other than that you just need the magnets themselves- these are the 5mm ones I used, and these are the 3mm.

Thank you for the response. How much time do you usually airbrush for? Do you do a lot of detail work with it? I was thinking I would just be doing base coats and the initial highlights, then finishing with a brush.

These Master or Paasche tanks seem good. I am concerned about the 1 star reviews though, seems like they can break.

For now I think I am going to try my Hitachi and see how it goes. I can always get an airbrush compressor later.

Using a clear Matte Varnish helps and doesn't take away much from the finished look.

Something like this after all of your painting is done and dry: https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Matte-Varnish-8-oz/dp/B000KNPLTM

Get an airbrush. Nothing fancy is really needed, just something that works. I used a cheaper airbrush for a long time before I felt I needed an upgrade. I started with this brush: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002KJK130/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and this compressor: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038D38AA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. I still use that compressor, and now use this brush: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EB569ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

edit: I would also point out that this was my first model that I had even attempted this sort of shading on. It turned out well, but I got a lot of my inspiration and technique from this guy: https://youtu.be/ynW6ZOj3wuA

I use one of these, which I like because it clamped onto the edge of my desk, can be powered off a USB port from my computer (directly below it), and has a reasonably flexible gooseneck so I can get the light where I need it. On the down side, there's no way to adjust the brightness. I haven't minded because I basically want full brightness all the time so I can see my mini clearly.

When I attended ReaperCon last August, I noticed an awful lot of TaoTronics desk lamps in use.

This is the one I'm talking about. It's a big step up from the Master you linked in terms of quality, it's optimal for beginners (forgiving tolerances, tool-less assembly), and it won't be obsoleted by anything else you might get in the future--it's still be your workhorse for priming and basing. It's ideal to learn on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CLLBZ6S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I have. Yeah it's pricey but it mixes ANY paint I throw at it in less than 5 seconds with no effort on my part. It has sped up my ability to paint and it has increased the quality of the paint itself by mixing so thoroughly. It's 100% worth it.

I generally achieve this by using "green stuff/kneadtite" (or more typically for weaponry...) milliput and sculpting the weapons.

I feel like actual wood might not be as durable as I'd prefer for regular tabletop use, especially if you have players that haven't been taught to be gentle with the miniatures or if you don't have a case for transport purposes. It should hold paint alright tho...but to be fair I've only ever used it for an actual basing material.

Thanks.

Green Stuff on Amazon

The thing that irritated me about Amazon (in general - I know it's not really anyone's fault) is that depending on the 3rd party seller, packaging, and intended customer base, the price varied dramatically. The stuff that was clearly listed for hobbyist to use for minis, etc, was $1-$2/inch. After looking around for a bit, I found a 36" roll for about $16.

That's an awesome tip about the curved plastic. Thank you for posting that tip. Here's a link to the minis on Amazon. On mobile over here, pardon the crappy format.

https://www.amazon.com/SCS-Direct-Fantasy-Creatures-Playset/dp/B0746TKNSL/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540082831&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bulk+miniatures&dpPl=1&dpID=61Tzx4931FL&ref=plSrch

This has been probably the most informative comment and I definitely needed it.

Yeah I saw there was this set on Amazon Since I don't have a compressor or ANYTHING besides cheap ol' Wal-mart paints (which I don't even know if they would work with it) I figured I would consult reddit to see what the good people of r/minipainting would know.

It all sounds awesome. Yeah, in Texas there are super humid days and there are just days where priming is an absolute NO. And when I do prime, they come out clumpy :( I also figure an airbrush would be good for painting the Bones set, which are the f*cking death of me and the bane of my existence but they are cheap.

So the airbrush is mainly for: Priming, blending, and zenithal highlights? (I'll have to check up on what those are...)

I have this same set and really like them. I'm a beginner as well but second the suggestion on putting agitators in the bottles. Also a fingernail polish holder makes a nice storage option. I use a couple of these for paints and for minis in progress:

Acrylic holder

It probably depends on your drill I guess. I only have one and it's a fairly high-end consumer / low-end contractor's drill. Your standard Stanley might not have a large enough chuck to fit. All you really need is to be able to get a tight enough fit so it doesn't immediately fall out. Eventually it will become out of balanced and fly out, but that's inevitable. You'll also scratch up the surface of the cap so only do it if you don't care. I actually just bought a vortex mixer from Amazon. I've seen it between $65 and 75$, which is a lot cheaper than the typical $350. It works really well for hobby paints. https://www.amazon.com/LabGenius-MI0101001-Mini-Vortex-Mixer-Clear/dp/B01CLLBZ6S/

I'm pretty new to airbrushing but I recently got this airbrush and I found it suits my needs. I wanted a compressor that had a tank so I had steady airflow, a regulator, and a water trap and this unit has all three for a reasonable price. At first I went to hobby lobby too but I found all their compressors were pretty expensive even after the discount. So, I don't have any recommendations from the list but the point zero compressor is solid for the price.

1. Yes
   
   
2. These work for me
   
   
3. Yes

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/Green-Stuff-Kneadatite-sculpting-Painter/dp/B001AE5ZQO/ref=sr_1_3

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Portable-Airbrush-Compressor-Oil-less/dp/B004KNDQCM/

Compressor reliability does seem to be a crapshoot. I have a paasche cheapie ~100 bucks i bought 4 years ago that is still alive and kicking with intermittent use.

My advice would be to try out a cheaper one first. The one I linked comes with an airtank too. I just don't think 2.6x the cost is justified for compressor internals.

Would not recommend, and would suggest testing in a small spot before doing the whole thing. I used it to prime these miniatures, and they all came out sticky and shiny. I hoped they'd go matte overnight, but they didn't. Was more trouble than it was worth.

It could have been the type of plastic, but I expected it to work because it's marketed for plastic ¯_(ツ)_/¯ Also, if you do use it, and want to take it off, a 5 minute soak in odorless mineral spirits took it right off for me.

Yeah, they're perfect for Citadel paints. For those of you unaware, we're talking about these.

Edit:. I just got my second one today. I still need to alphabetize the paints.

As a newbie who wants to be sure, this is the varnish you are talking about right:

https://www.amazon.com/Liquitex-Professional-Matte-Varnish-8-oz/dp/B000KNPLTM

since there is another which has same name but only for paintings.

And also I found Vallejo Surface Primer 74602 Black. Which works the same as your 73.602 right? Are there any differences? Ok. It is just the size of bottles.

By the way, do you use different brushes for these? My assumptions are: Primers are also acrylic paints and does not harm the brushes, so I can use my main brush also for priming. But varnish can stuck on brush, so i should use separate and cheap brush.

Am I correct?

I dont have a permanent station. I pull everything out each time I paint.

So I have a storage box with all the fiddly bits like brushes, putty, wet palette, etc.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Latchmate-Turquoise-Storage-Tray-Recollections/dp/B078R8B4CP

And I recently upgraded my reaper learn to paint kits with the army painter big box. I needed a way to have those handy:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N24LHLZ

And a pair of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0197ZOAKE set up over the work area.

Takes about five minutes to throw it all onto a folding table and get going.

I use one of these bad boys:
http://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics%C2%AE-Elune-TT-DL01-Dimmable-Lighting/dp/B00APAQSP6/ref=sr_1_1?srs=5608252011&ie=UTF8&qid=1412630343&sr=8-1&keywords=desk+lamp
I also have a normal halogen desk lamp on the other side of my desk. My only complaint is that you can't rotate the bar, but that's rarely an issue. It has a USB charger on it too, which is surprisingly useful.

Craft paints and tubes of plastic figures will do the job. SCS Direct's Wicked Duals figures would be a good choice for models. They're a good value, but not amazing quality. They definitely will need to be straightened out with a hot water bath and set into position with an ice bath too.

It came from this set. SCS Direct Monster Action Figure Bucket - Big Bucket of 100 Horror Toy Figures - from Dracula to Frankenstein to Giant Spiders- Perfect for Cake Toppers, Halloween Party Favors, Decorations https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W5WSN5A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pBILDbDG1DAP9

I used some of these to make bonepiles, skull decorations, etc:

http://www.amazon.com/Piece-Army-Skeleton-Warriors-Ready/dp/B00IDBZPIU?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

The quality is nowhere near a good tabletop mini, and they're a little too big- each skeleton is a bit over two inches tall- but for pieces, they're good.

I prefer citadel over all. I use the citadel Colour app to help with the color choice and how to apply. I do use Vallejo when I need an air brush version of a color that Citadel doesn’t have or for priming.

I understand the stance you have on the pricing with citadel, but you can make that line of paint last longer.

Head to amazon and order these items
15ml dropper bottles
1ml needless syringe
flow aid
small stainless steel ball baring

By following the steps in this video on YouTube I was able to transfer all my base and layer paints to dropper bottles. Now I can limit how much paint I’m wasting to a minimum. Because like you said, they can be expensive

Is this air brush generally considered a good one for minipainting? Does anywhere have it cheaper than amazon?

Not D&D miniatures exactly, but really cool and fairly well-sculpted is the "Monster Action Figure Bucket" on Amazon.com. For $17.95 you get 100 figures, most of them 54mm scale and cast in a decent plastic. https://www.amazon.com/Monster-Action-Figure-Bucket-Frankenstein/dp/B00W5WSN5A/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1505817377&sr=8-14&keywords=monsters+toys There is a wolfman figure among them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N24LHLZ/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1&th=1

I own two, and plan on getting more. I have citadel, Vallejo, Army Painter and Reaper paints and they all fit fine.

Amazon has a spray booth for about 80 bucks that is very compact when put away. This is enough for most people but if you want to be extra careful, use a respirator.

heap kit from eBay here. A better airbrush is the Badger Patriot 105. You can use the compressor with either airbrush. The Patriot will do your priming, base coating, color blocks, and beyond if you want to more fully use the airbrush as a tool. Check out YouTube videos from Doctor Fausts Painting clinic, Vince Venturella, and Next Level Painting to see what is possible with an airbrush.

Assuming it’s this one here

You really should consider returning it and saving up for at least the one that’s like 70-80 on amazon, if not a better one.

I'd recommend stepping up to the model with a tank if you can spare the extra $40.

https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-TC-20T-AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-REGULATOR/dp/B0038D38AA/ref=sr_1_13?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1482854361&sr=1-13&keywords=Master+Airbrush+High+Performance+Airbrush+Air+Compressor+with+tank

https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Polish-Mixing-Agitator/dp/B007IK9M4K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492729313&sr=8-1&keywords=paint+agitator+balls

Absolutely worth buying.

Saw this in the recommended list on that page, maybe this? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000RB547G/ref=pd_aw_sim_328_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=D8SD3MYP8QTGYFD1P24Y&dpPl=1&dpID=51aKAxgb39L

[has done me well so far] (https://www.amazon.com/PointZero-HP-Airbrush-Compressor-Portable/dp/B004KNDQCM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2_sspa?crid=1OPK6CK3N0BZL&keywords=pointzero+airbrush&qid=1555382635&s=gateway&sprefix=pointzer&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1)

I used these and it works well

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IK9M4K/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I6D147GW59YL&colid=1A3T81N262HBE&psc=0

SCS Direct Fantasy Creatures Action Figure Playset - 90pc Monster Battle Toy Collection (Includes Dragons, Wizards, Orcs, and More) - Perfect for Roleplaying and D&D Gaming https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0746TKNSL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_U43nDbN645KZG

Shade set

Having little pots of most is fine --- I mostly use nuln and agrax.

While this isn't really portable, you could easily pick it up and carry it to the closet. This will not store 80-90 though. I have about 85 paints,mixed between citadel and army, and I can't quite fit them all in.

Cq acrylic 72 Bottles of 5 Layers Nail Polish Rack-Clear Nail Polish Display,Just Stand on The Table or Desk,16.4x7.8x7.5 inch,Pack of 1 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01N24LHLZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_koBTCbKVAT37N

I use the table top version of this, but yah, they're cheap, durable, and hold a ton of paint from most makers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06WVN2KJH/ref=twister_B076FYGZ7W?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I vote airbrush. It really was a game changer for me. You can pick up a Badger Patriot 105 for ~$60 (https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-Patriot-Airbrush/dp/B002W84GTO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1550073742&sr=8-1&keywords=badger+patriot+105). I use a $50 compressor from Walmart, but if you want something a bit quieter you may creep over your budget...

Get this glue https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-87038-Extra-Thin-Cement/dp/B000BMYWYC
It comes with a little brush on the cap to apply it, so it makes a thin layer, and it actually fuses the plastic together, so it makes the mini very durable.
Note that it will only work with plastic minis, for metal or resin you'll want superglue..

Depends on quality and why you need them. I have a death army for AOS and I just sprung for the GW because they look good. I could have gone with something like this but they look a little cheezy.

This is what you’re looking for!

https://www.amazon.ca/Tamiya-87038-Extra-Thin-Cement/dp/B000BMYWYC

I think I'll get my hands on this

It's cheaper than MrCementS and also thin. Some lad on youtube did a review and they seem the same.

Or just buy one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Work-Holder-CLAMP-VISE/dp/B000RB547G/

or

https://www.amazon.com/Hand-Free-Universal-Holder-HOL-173-00/dp/B0058EDVXQ/

Here's a holder I've seen recommended.

Have you checked out Green Stuff? It's basically modeling clay for minis

Ain't this the same stuff?

https://www.amazon.ca/Green-Stuff-Kneadatite-sculpting-Painter/dp/B001AE5ZQO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498139132&sr=8-2&keywords=green+stuff

Amazon.ca is showing alternatives too...

https://www.amazon.ca/Milliput-Superfine-White-Epoxy-Putty/dp/B002CNEWAM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498139132&sr=8-1&keywords=green+stuff

Look for Canadian sculptor/mouldmaker people and/or propmakers working in Resin, and you'll find the right kind of stores I think :P

> greenstuff

This putty seems really expensive for how much you get, is this what you're using and are you buying it in bulk?

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Stuff-Kneadatite-sculpting-Painter/dp/B001AE5ZQO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1502378997&sr=8-3&keywords=green+stuff

Also Looking at this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KNDQCM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A3KUYHN7HI5ZSF&psc=1

One of the lights that I use when I stream on twitch is this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00APAQSP6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's this https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Charging-Lighting-Brightness-Licensing/dp/B00APAQSP6

The box behind it is a Master spray booth (folded up into briefcase form). There’s also a patio door and a HEPA filter out of frame.

https://www.amazon.com/Kneadatite-Yellow-Epoxy-Putty-Green/dp/B00MQ7EHHC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1537629900&sr=8-1&keywords=kneadatite

Don't buy greenstuff from GW. It's literally this.

Try nail polish racks

Cq acrylic 72 Bottles of 5 Layers Nail Polish Rack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N24LHLZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Y1ISBbH2X2YPV

I bought a set that aren't wallmounted for $18

SCS Fantasy Creatures, the came in a box of 90 and cost US$ 22,90. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0746TKNSL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_fgetDb812GQPR

Here ya go!

https://www.amazon.com/WizKids-Pathfinder-Deep-Unpainted-Miniatures/dp/B07GK7ZWDG?pf_rd_p=0fc3f2c4-3ed5-4d11-9995-8d7c82394713&pd_rd_wg=SwLmn&pf_rd_r=3HT51PXSZV5KVFS3K75T&ref_=pd_gw_cr_simh&pd_rd_w=TGdVW&pd_rd_r=6f06f6c3-20de-4ac8-a474-2f1b933fea7c

I believe it's this one: https://www.amazon.com/LabGenius-Mini-Vortex-Mixer/dp/B01CLLBZ6S?th=1

​

I had heard about vortex mixers for test tubes, and asked my doctor in law if she could find some cheaper than what I was seeing. Just unwrapped this from her, and I swear, I wasn't fishing for gifts!

No, this is the Gargantuan White Dragon. I just wanted it to be red.

WizKids Pathfinder Deep Cuts Unpainted Miniatures: Gargantuan White Dragon - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GK7ZWDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_epZDCbG8TRK58

I use this one:

Master Airbrush Multi-Purpose Airbrushing System Kit with Portable Mini Air Compressor - Gravity Feed Dual-Action Airbrush, Hose, How-To-Airbrush Guide Booklet - Hobby, Craft, Cake Decorating, Tattoo https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00BF0MW9G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UNC1Cb4P65RYN

It's the finest airbrush that $50 can buy.

Shots primer, base coats and transitions just like an airbrush.

East to clean, no fear of ruining something fancy. Does exactly what I expected.

I still lost for an iwata eclipse, but I haven't needed one yet!

https://www.amazon.com/WizKids-Pathfinder-Deep-Unpainted-Miniatures/dp/B07GK7ZWDG

At 24 dollars its kind of a steal for such a nice model. They also have a Red and Green model too. I'm working on the red model right now and its so lovely.

Search ebay for "TC-20T" - currently there's a Zeny listed that comes with the hose, regulator, water trap, and the tank (that's the one I got). You can catch them on sale for as low as $30 every now and then, but even at $60 it's a steal. It's one of the same models re-badged by several other companies like Masters/Sparmax/PointZero/etc for a lot more (ie: https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-TC-20T-AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-REGULATOR/dp/B0038D38AA/).

I found it. Does this link work?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IDBZPIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1X.yybD8AWRFS

And is .ca California? I live in Tahoe and they shipped to me no problem.

Sorry had the wrong wording its Tamiya Fine Primer

I guess i was thinking about (and still screwed up) the name of their glue i use

ok few points:

1. The colored sprays from GW are NOT primer. They are a base color. GW makes 2 primer sprays: White and black. Thanks it/ If you're using the colored sprays as a primer you are going to see a lot of rub off when you start handling them. Those colors are designed to go on AFTER the primer.
   
   
2. Primer color makes some difference in a few ways:
   
   Black: Black sprays will make the colors painted over them darker and will also make recessed areas of the model more prominent. It also makes it harder to do lighter colors.
   
   White: Great for lighter colors or shade only paint jobs. I love GW corax white for painting bone or light human/eldar skin.
   
   Colored sprays: Colored sprays are good if you want to establish a color and not have to use as many coats of paint to achieve a particular color. One "cheat" method I've seen for Imperial Fists is to start with Army Painter yellow, throw a thin yellow layer, dry brush a white and then wash with Cassandora yellow. Simple and easy.
   
   I've used all manner of primers (Kyrlon Fusion, Duplo, GW brands) and so far I've found that the Krylon is good, the GW Corax white is amazing but then I discovered airbrushing and everything changed. I live in a cold/damp area so priming outside or in my garage is a pain in the ass (FUCKING SPIDERS EVERYWHERE!!!!).
   
   My wife got me a simple airbrush for Christmas 2 years ago and I didn't want to use it because I didn't want to reset my skills to zero using it. Then after a nasty rain spell I said "screw it. I'm gonna use this thing to prime models in my basement" and HOLY SHIT WHY HAVEN'T I DONE THIS SOONER?!??!?!?!? No more standing in the cold, no more watching out of one eye to make sure Monstro the Giant Fucking Spider that lives behind my paint cans isn't going to go Face Hugger on me, no more propellant high. It was awesome AND the primer is thinner/doesn't obscure detail. I was blown away. Vallejo surface primer is amazing, it's dirt cheap compared to a rattle can, moisture/cold isn't a factor and there's considerably less risk of dying from a spider laying eggs in your brain. It comes in a HUGE array of colors and eventually you can preshade for highlights with it. I know air brushing can be intimidating but once you make the decision to do it you will not regret it. Seriously. Even just for priming and basing.
   
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qK5FU_dYpRA
   
   This is the kit I got and I still use it.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Professional-Airbrushing/dp/B006HJCP8S/ref=sr_1_7?srs=2596187011&ie=UTF8&qid=1480784262&sr=8-7&keywords=AIRBRUSH
   
   If you don't need all that then all you really need it the compressor and the G22
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-MAS-KIT-VC16-B22-Compressor/dp/B00BF0MW9G/ref=sr_1_1?srs=2596187011&ie=UTF8&qid=1480784313&sr=8-1&keywords=AIRBRUSH