(Part 3) Top products from r/overclocking

Yeah you're desk would probably work just fine. It shouldn't make a huge mess, it's not like you're using a power sander haha.

The CLU is just extremely hard to clean off copper, as in it bonds to it. You end up having to use some sort of abrasive to really get it off. With a lapped IHS, or lapped block, you'd probably end up having to "relap" it with some higher grit sandpapers (800+) to return to a clean copper finish.

You can certainly lap the H80 and GPU blocks, but I would take them off and check them with a nice straight edge first. I would also only use the Gelid on those coolers, the H80 and GPU blocks. It will be much easier to clean if future removal is required and Gelid is some highly rated stuff already.

I would seriously recommend using the knife/razor method to remove the IHS. Like the saying it's "so easy, a caveman could do it" lol. Buy an X-ACTO #2 knife handle and their #26 whittling blade. Or one of their kits that includes those since you'd get a lot more for your money if you had other uses. The #26 blade is the perfect length/width that you can easily judge how deep it's slicing through the glue, and long enough that you can hold it along the entire length of one side of the IHS after you cut through the corners.

Here's some crappy paint pics that should help explain the process:

Part 1 - http://i.imgur.com/MvYMYjL.png

Part 2 - http://i.imgur.com/J4Vc3C9.png

The reason I'm recommending the X-ACTO setup so highly is you have much greater control with the size of that blade attached to a real handle. Whereas if you used the typical loose razor blade like this:

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/GWfZ_4BQK7s/hqdefault.jpg

or this:

http://s19.postimg.org/zco5sqnsj/image.jpg

is harder to control, harder on the fingers, and you risk using too much force and pushing through the glue too far. The X-ACTO handle eliminates this imo.

This image really helps illustrate how much glue can be on there, and where the die/transistors are in relation to everything. So use that as a clue when you start your cuts. Like I previously said, the size (width of the cutting edge to non-cutting edge) of the #26 X-ACTO blade helps with visualizing how deep your cuts are getting.

http://i.imgur.com/6or5ATh.jpg?1

Now if this sounds complicated or risky, please let me assure you it's not that difficult. I'm just trying to be as thorough as possible with my explanation to help ease your concern. Using the method I described I had the IHS off in less than 5 min and I had never delidded anything before. The X-ACTO knife is so sharp. I mean it might feel like it takes more force than you'd think to cut through, but once it's off you'll be like "wow, that was easy."

This is the Liquid Electrical tape I used on the transistors after delid:

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85120-Liquid-Electrical-Tape/dp/B003ERU04W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449519375

This is a solid X-ACTO kit that has the blade and handle I'm recommending, but you could buy them separately for cheaper:

http://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-X5028-Xacto-Do-It-Yourself-Set/dp/B000HGMA7I/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1449519412

Sandpaper you can get anywhere. I'd recommend the 3M Wetordry stuff. They're usually sold in packs with different grit ranges and sheet quantity. Maybe you could get single 9x11" sheets of individual grits at an auto parts store or something though.

> Also is there a reason you're favoring skylake over kaby, or is it just price?

> If price isn't an issue then you might as well get a 7700k (even if you don't want to OC). The 'K' can make your rig last another year or two past it's prime so I think it's worth the extra $30 or so

Haha, I guess that's an "oops". I've been speccing this system out for a few months now, and when I looked at the i7s before deciding on a Xeon (which I'm now changing my mind on), Kaby Lake was either brand new or not out yet.

I had also ruled out the "K" series thinking that using "overclocking" parts for a stable work machine would be a bad idea, but it's sounding like that's not the case.

> I'm curious what case are you going for? Since you don't need a gpu there's some really cool sff options, there are some mITX cases that are small enough to fit in a backpack.

Well, that part is interesting... I need this to be portable, so that a few times a year I can take it on a plane from my home (where I'll normally work) to my company's office across the country. Hence why I picked mITX.

My current leader is the Lian-Li PC-TU200B, which has a handle on it. Perfect. I like the Corsair 380T better, but I don't think it's going to fit onboard an airplane (either overhead bin or under a seat).

I'd also settle for a regular desktop or tower that I can strap a Geargrip Lite handle to. That might be better, even, since I hear that Lian-Li case is a real bitch to access anything internally.

If you have another suggestion for a case, I'll certainly take it. As long as it's easy to carry through an airport, fits on a plane, and fits 2x 3.5" drives and maybe 1x 2.5" drive (SSD, if the mobo doesn't have M.2), that's all I really need.

Sucks about the fans. If you want something that moves an absolutely ridiculous amount of air, this Noctua fan is probably your best bet, with a price to match. There is also this slightly cheaper option made by Silverstone. One last option, if you're ok with a super thick 120mm fan, you can go for this $14 Koolance fan, which is probably the best option if money is a concern. There is also a bigger cousin that Koolance fan, for around $24, that moves air better than anything else I listed here, but is crazy loud.

Awesome that Thermalright is sending a new cooler. That's amazing customer service. You should switch out the mounting hardware and all, see if maybe something was just not within spec.

Intel was always going to say that, they have to stand behind their shitty thermal compound choice.

As far as whether you should have SL bin your chip or not, that's up to you. I personally enjoy the act of finding the maximum stable overclock; If you don't enjoy it, and feel like the extra $20 is worth not having to deal with it, then go for it. I personally feel like AVX offset is cheating, and I know that sentiment is shared by at least a couple of people, but that comes down to your personal workload too.

H500P Mesh news, in case you haven't seen it- https://youtu.be/iVrqEfDbCko?t=51

No news about H500M from what I've seen- Maybe consider contacting Coolermaster customer support about it. I'm loving my SE (and yeah, I ordered mine from that link). I'll let you know if I see a nice case go on a crazy sale.

Yes it's possible and yes it can improve temps a few C.

It's safe if you take extra precautions such as making sure the mount is perfectly flat and high pressure, in some cases, a foam dam surrounding the IHS can both work as extra insurance against any LM escaping anywhere as well as acting as a barrier against oxygen causing excessive oxidation of the gallium, or you can also use kneaded eraser around the socket as well. Sometimes with heat spreader (rather than direct die) cooling, you may need to apply super 33+ around the IHS edges and over the retention mechanism so you have a bit extra room for the cutout foam dam to fit on (instead of kneaded eraser to fully block the socket gaps, etc).

This type of polyurethane foam is excellent on both CPUs and GPU's.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GKC2US/

I more than appreciate all the responses. Yes it should fit that easily. The OEM cooler on a dell 630i is this:
https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Dell-Processor-Heatsink-Cooling/dp/B0029OLY1O

Well I added that recommendation to my Amazon cart. I'll order it when I get enough stuff piled in the cart as my usual. Haha. A friend with the same processor and that exact CPU cooler is debating upgrading to watercooling. Maybe I'll push $20 his way. Haha.

Again, Thanks!

i was going to go for this because it seemed alot cheaper than the Z77 boards i could find.
if you could find me a z77 for about £50 or about $75 dollars then i would be happy to go with that :)

I got my old E8400 to 4.4GHz with the same motherboard, but it wasn't 100% stable so I backed down to 4.0GHz.

Your E8500 should have a 9.5x multiplier (333MHz stock FSB x 9.5 = 3.16GHz stock). If you bump the FSB to 400MHz and remove the slower RAM, you can run a 1:1 FSB:DRAM ratio with a 3.8GHz CPU clock.

That should give you a feel for how much voltage you need to get the CPU stable at 3.8GHz, and you can decide if you have enough voltage/temperature headroom that investing in DDR2-8500 (533) is worth it. Most 1066MHz DDR2 RAM requires ~2.1V (vs 1.8V for normal RAM), so I had to add a ram cooler to keep temps below the 50C max recommended by Corsair.

Oh, wow! I didn't know that they could get that inexpensive. I was actually looking at two gigabyte boards when I made that assumption.

One of them being a ud3h z68 for about $117 and the other a ud3h z77 $134

First of all, thank you!

You've basically answered all of my questions, now I just need to google guides for the actual overclocking. I believe there are an abundance of guides on how to overclock the 2500k, so I should be fine. My last two questions are: what's an approximate amount of GHz you think I could get up to with the TX3, and also is this the thermal paste you were referring to?

I just realised my cooler may be an issue here. Im using the ARCTIC Freezer 7 Pro Rev 2

rated at 150W seems like it would be pushing the limits a bit... what do you think?

edit: im not sure if im misinterepreting the info but it seems like that article you posted is dealing with the 6700K and not the 6600K?

http://overclocking.guide/increase-the-nvidia-power-limit-all-cards/3/

Start with a shunt mod to massively boost the power limit. Generally you want to add another identical resistor to halve the resistance at each point.

Then you need to beef up the cooling.

https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Kraken-RL-KRG10-B1-Bracket-Black/dp/B00ITTFO8M

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Quiet-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B009VV56TY

https://www.amazon.com/Enokay-Cooling-Heatsink-Raspberry-Heatsinks/dp/B014KKY3KI

https://www.amazon.com/Arctic-Alumina-Thermal-Adhesive-5g/dp/B0009IQ1BU

First two items are for the handling the core cooling, second two are for the VRM's.

Well hello there: https://www.amazon.com/NEMIX-Replacement-Samsung-M391A4G43AB1-CVF-DDR4-2933/dp/B07YXBBXWC

Not sure if A-die or even samsung chips, but it's still tempting.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B004MYFOE2/?tag=pcp0f-21

The NZXT
HAVIK 140

Fair enough. Here are just some of the pictures that I was deceived by: https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-CNPS9900MAX-R-CPU-Cooler-Red/dp/B004CYZ7E4

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0057VP5LQ/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That was the link that I bought it from. They had a few hundred at the lower price by an additional seller. Just searched around, didn't find anything for that price.

You mean like this stuff? I have a can of it and it's expensive shit, but havn't used it on anything sensitive yet, so not sure if safe or not.

I rearranged the fans in my case and removed a drive cage, and it has helped a little. After 5 mins in Furmark, my max GPU temperature is 91 degrees and the max VRM temperature is 100(!) degrees: I see what you mean; I don't feel very comfortable with that. This is a worst case scenario, both because Furmark is very hot and because the GPU is overclocked to 1080MHz core / 1360MHz VRAM.

My plan is to apply CLU to the die (since I will have it anyway from delidding) and to make the fan curve more aggressive. If the VRM temperature is still unacceptable, I'll buy some more thermal pads.

Thanks for the help!