(Part 2) Top products from r/pestcontrol

Its tough but you need to convince your customers first. I ran routes that included small restaurants and larger food processing plants. Outside of our three warmest months, I rarely touched a B&G. I used monitors and baits. I carried a tool bag instead of a B&G. In the bag was ant, cockroach and rodent baits along with snap traps, insect monitors as well as putty knives for inspecting. I also had a brush or two for some light cleaning. ect. IPM is not the elimination of pesticides but rather the selection of low impact products and techniques. The most striking examples of IPM appear in cases where you do Monthly Services or "maintenance treatments. A good example is when you run into cove base. You COULD spay the surface of that cove base with a given residual. How long do you think that residual will las in a typical office setting? The reality is that you MAY get 15 -21 days of detectable amounts from the cove base. Conditions vary. But look at that cove base pic again. Do you see how the bottom of the cove base forms a small half tunnel as it meets the floor? That is an EXCELLENT highway for most pests. Remember that the mass of a pest's time is spent hidden as much as they can. This tunnel is like a hidden highway.That is a BETTER place for your insecticide. So in this scenario, let's say there are pavement ant under the slab of this office. They keep pushing out their little grains of sand. Consider this alternative treatment. In my tool bag I kept a pack of post it notes and an old letter opener.I would walk through the office checking my monitors and speaking with people about their pest sitings In this example, we have a large office on a slab and pavements ants are the main pest. As I go, I place a post it on or near the "hot spots" of the pavement ant activity. I go back out,and get my Getts duster ( or have it with me in a ziplock freezer bag with me.) From my tool bag I pull out an old letter opener. I go to these "hot spots" and sit down right on the floor next to the "hot spot." I take my old letter opener and slip it under the "lip" in the cove base where it meets the floor.I pry up that lip and slip the stem of the duster in where I pried it up (kind of like a shoe horn.) I pivot the duster so the stem is parallel with the wall (as much as possible) and give the duster a gentle squeeze. If you watch you will see a small amount of dust puff at seams ext in the cove base about 6 or 8 feet to the right. You now have covered 6 or 8 feet to your right. Pivot the duster to the left and repeat. You have covered the cove base for about 16 feet. 16 feet will cover most any "hot spot." Mind you, I only do this at hot spots, not the entire building. Its a bit more work but in a few monthly visits, you will cover the mass of the issue. I assure you this is far more effective, especially if you return to those hot spots next month with a boric acid or DE kind of product. You can just do a couple of these old hot spots on each visit while knocking down new ones. I assure you...treating cove base in this manner is far more effective, lasts far longer and your customer isn't exposed to your insecticide like they would be if you were spraying the surface of the cove base. This seems like a lot of work but it WILL pay dividends in the long run in fewer call backs and reduced liability.

You'll need a gallon pump sprayer to apply these

https://www.amazon.com/Chapin-20000-Multi-Purpose-Fertilizers-Household/dp/B000E28UQU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538933229&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gallon+pump+sprayer&dpPl=1&dpID=31nZAc-4wJL&ref=plSrch

Alpine wsg is a pesticide with a super high transfer rate. Can be mixed up to 30 grams a gallon for interior treatments

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-WSG-Gram-Pour-Bottle/dp/B01GKMHIM4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538932232&sr=8-1π=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=alpine+wsg&dpPl=1&dpID=41d4g8YLSML&ref=plSrch

Archer insect growth regulator mixed at 2 ounces per gallon (mix with alpine)

https://www.amazon.com/Archer-Insect-Growth-Regulator-16/dp/B004H0I1HI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538932452&sr=8-1π=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=archer+igr&dpPl=1&dpID=4115-aiourL&ref=plSrch

You'll need to use a gel bait. Best applied in commonly found harborage areas like around warm, moist areas, (the mechanical workings of refrigerator, behind stoves, in cabinets, under sinks, any other areas you commonly see them) place the bait in pea sized drops, and use more then you think you'll need. The idea is if they eat the bait, come back looking for more, wwr want it to be the for them to find

https://www.amazon.com/Advion-Cockroach-Bait-4-syringes-1-06/dp/B002Y2GNVM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538933296&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=advion+cockroach+gel+bait&dpPl=1&dpID=416aZuQSD4L&ref=plSrch


A good dust for void applications is alpine or delta dust. Applied with a bulb duster.

https://www.amazon.com/Dr-Killigans-Insecticide-Diatomaceous-Insecticides/dp/B01C36EMNO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538933173&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bulb+duster&dpPl=1&dpID=510hCV2bsnL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-Dust-Control-Green-Product/dp/B007PI4KKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538932768&sr=8-1π=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=alpine+dust&dpPl=1&dpID=51NCSADMxqL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Dust-Multi-Control-Insecticide/dp/B002Y6B4A8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538932782&sr=8-2π=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=alpine+dust&dpPl=1&dpID=31fGp0QNQjL&ref=plSrch

These products are great for areas you can't reach or see like inside walls. You'd remove outlet covers, lights switch covers etc. Place tip of duster inside the wall, and "blow" the dust inside the wall.

A few things to look for after applying, firstly, dead cockroaches show they're getting in the product. Also, the growth regulator will mutate the females appearance, curling the wings on their backs. Seeing these will also give you a clue you're applying the product in the correct place. All of these products are expensive, but when applied correctly will be very effective at solving your problem. Good luck to you

That's about the gist of it. You can bomb the house all you want but until you find where they're breeding, you'll have a continuous problem. Make sure to clean around the lip of the toilet (the part of the bowl where the water flows down from). You'll be surprised how much gunk can build up there and provide a breeding ground for "gnats". Also, make sure you're not over-watering you plants (I'd ditch any plants until this problem is solved). Other points of moisture may be the drip pan under or in back of your fridge, floor drains where you HVAC air handler drains, basement drains (or a damp crawlspace), sinks & showers. My area has had an issue with fruit flies actually coming from the sewer system so if you're on public sewer, you may want to contact you local utility to see if there's a known problem (they may or may not be helpful). I've also had luck using those fly ribbon strips for determining where activity is heaviest - hang them near all your drains to see which are causing the most problem. You can try these hanging pest strips in vacant rooms and attics too. Some of my customers have used them with success for combating these little guys. Good luck and happy hunting!

in this situation pest control is only money wasted, if you get rid of these squirrels others will move into this territory.

The only hope is to enclose the cable in something that they can't chew through. Don't know if soft wrapping will help, but it seems that if it's soft it will be great for a nest too.

for the thicker parts with jumper cables I would use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Hubbell-Raco-8660-Single-Handy/dp/B000BQL3OU/
with a cover.

This is the product I am using:

Household Essentials 35704-1 CedarFresh Clothes Protector and Moth Repellent Storage Accessories Value Pack (71 Items) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DEF8KCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Wm9DCb12QVP75

I read everything that came with it, it says 100% chemical free?

For mice, these are good. It is a multiple catch system that does not kill them.

I have used them. You wind it up and it keeps flipping mice into the holding area.

https://www.amazon.com/Ketch-All-Mousetrap-w-Clear-Lid/dp/B001VGW06E

I put a little grain, cheese, peanut butter in the holding area.

After you show them to your landlord, you can release them on the other side of town.

Tell your landlord that you want to take them to the health department to get tested for disease.

Rats are too big for this.

Also use an IGR if possible here's what I use with a lot of success https://www.amazon.com/Gentrol-Point-Source-IGR-ZOE1007/dp/B0049EKEEK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?adgrpid=57600465498&gclid=Cj0KCQjwzunmBRDsARIsAGrt4mueCckbC88nTMwGNk5ntSjCyWgu-waQ8KyrSzfiVwEPFqxTWlS66QwaAvvBEALw_wcB&hvadid=274731156904&hvdev=m&hvlocphy=1028087&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=231306937934641446&hvtargid=kwd-298157712944&hydadcr=4310_9618126&keywords=gentrol+point+source+igr&qid=1557882279&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Ask what chemicals they're using. The fact that they're not baiting for them is concerning, and if they're not using an insect growth regulator (IGR) in conjunction with the spray, then I'd drop them.

You can get you some Maxforce too and treat it yourself. If you're not keeping any food out for them to eat, they should prioritize the bait.

I had those for a while too. I used something like this product and it worked.

Granular bait is a good suggestion, but Advion Insect Granules specifically are not labeled for Red Imported Fire Ants.

I typically used Advance 375A select granular ant bait to treat these guys during my time operating in CA.

I honesty don't know what number would be considered an infestation.

This is the gel bait I used btw.

I suggest placing the gel not just in the closet, but a bit around the perimeter inside the garage (like near the corners). Place some particularly near the pipes (as shown in the pic in the link), and anywhere there are cracks in the wall. I'd also consider putting some in your own home (like under the sink, corners of the kitchen, under the fridge, stove, and in the bathroom). Then just wait for two weeks. Then use the traps to check if they're still there.

After reading some reviews, I think I'm going to give this gel a try
Bayer 4314807 Maxforce Carpenter Gel 27g Ant Insecticide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003EAQX18/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_njEtDb9SBYSHY

The ants I'm dealing with won't come out sometimes for days at a time... but they always return. The winged swarm was too much, I've got to find something that works.

Get these traps:

pantry pest moth traps

Walmart, Lowe’s, Amazon

http://www.walmart.com/ip/4pc-Mouse-Killer-Disposable-Sealed-Bait-Station-2PK/366186051

https://www.lowes.com/pd/TOMCAT-Mouse-Killer-I-8-Count-1-oz-Mouse-Bait-with-Bait-Station/50192367

JT Eaton 750 Top Gun All Weather Rodenticide Bait Block Bromethalin Neurological Bait with Stop-Feed Action and Bitrex, For Mice and Rats (Pail of 128) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DLKGIT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_apm.BbB720AVP

No antidote.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bromethalin

https://healthypets.mercola.com/sites/healthypets/archive/2013/05/24/bromethalin.aspx

I would suggest trying to remove the the dead rat. Most dishwasher aren't too hard only have three or four screws. If this is not possible odor sponges can help. You can get them from most hardware stores. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00006IEDC?cache=9ac453f91a9ff36a8406b42a647402c5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412823178&sr=8-10#ref=mp_s_a_1_10

Flea bombs in that room will not do a damn thing. thiscomes with a small plastic tube you can use to stick in to cracks and holes. It's not necessarily my best suggestion I could offer but it's exactly what you're looking for. Sounds like your on top of the nest so stick the tube into the holes where the sawdust and dead ants are falling from. If it works correctly it'll flush out the ants and they'll be all gone in a day or two. If
It doesn't work correctly you'll have to drill holes and possibly remove boards to access the nest.

This solution though doesn’t kill the eggs that these things lay, it only captures the mature adults. So while you may catch a bunch of them it will remain a problem in the house. OP do you have a garbage disposal in your kitchen sink?

Invade Hot Spot foam

Buy a can of this if you can, some Home Depot’s even have it. There’s no pesticides, if you apply this to your drains and garbage disposal it will help eliminate the problem your having.