Reddit reviews Alvin, Professional Self-Healing Cutting Mats, 12 x 18 Inches

I just posted another comment so you'd see a notification.


Here's the list! Hope it's not too long. All the tools listed are the ones I bought. If I have other suggestions, I've listed them as well. I've also listed details on the functions of the tools, and why they're superior to some other alternatives. If you look for the same amount of tools in one of those "kits," they would set you back roughly 200-400, depending on where you bought it from. The tools in these kits are usually quite inferiorly made as well. This list is a result of about a week long search and perusal. Tandy is a well known and easily accessible aggregation of tools, but they're overpriced for what they do and their quality is mediocre at best.

• Stitching Chisel Set Amazon - $19 - Used for even stitching holes. An alternative to this tool would be something called an overstitch wheel, but from what I've read, the consensus seems to be that pricking irons are better and more reliable for straight lines. Also, overstitch wheels don't pierce the leather all the way, and only mark the holes, meaning that you have to pierce each hole individually with an awl after you're done. Double the work.
  
  
• Stitching Groover & Edge Trimmer Amazon - $22 - This tool combines three tools into one. The edge groover, edge trimmer, and fold liner. It's not amazing quality admittedly, but it gets the job done well, and for the price I really can't complain. The edge groover cuts out a thin channel which sets the thread in deeper in the leather. Edge trimmer smooths the sharp corners, and the fold liner makes a line if you want to fold the leather somewhere.
  
  
• Cutting Mat Amazon - $10 - I'd say absolutely necessary for anything leather related. This one is really cheap, works great. I have the 18x12 inch model, and the price is for that one as well.
  
  
• Hole Punch Set Amazon - $9 - I'd say this one is more on the optional side. Mostly needed if you're interested in putting in hardware like rivets or snaps. Also good however for oblong rounded holes, like I showed in my project.
  
  
• Mallet Amazon - $8 - Needed for all sorts of things. A normal metal hammer won't work because it won't absorb any force at all and all energy will be transferred to the leather, potentially damaging it. A rubber mallet allows for a softer hit.
  
  
  
• Diamond Stitching Awl Ebay - $9 - While technically not necessary if you're using a stitching chisel, if the leather you're working with is extremely thick, it might help to have it. You should get one anyway though. You'll inevitable end up using it. Also, make sure to get a "Diamond" pointed one. Normal awls with round points just poke a hole in that doesn't close back up. Diamond points are wide and thin, and this allows the leather to close back up on the thread after it has been sewed up. C.S. Osborne is also American made.
  
  
• Skiving Knife Ebay - $9 - Needed for thinning leather when folding, or simply trimming thick leather. There are several different styles, and they all definitely require a bit of finesse to be used properly, but are immensely rewarding once learned. Also a C.S. Osborne.
  
  
• Bone Folder Ebay - $7 - One of the tools you can improvise for. It's needed to crease corners when folding to flatten them out. Also can be used to burnish. The cocobolo burnisher that I made ended up working just as well as this for folding as well. Any smooth, rounded/flat long object will work well for this. This one is also a C.S. Osborne.
  
  
• Harness Needles Ebay - $7 - Size 2 is what I got, and it fits with 0.8 thread, also what I used. These needles are handy because the tips are somewhat rounded, which means no pricked fingers. Comes in a pack of 25, and the first two that I pulled out are still going strong, so they're quite sturdy.
  
  
• Ritza "Tiger" Thread Ebay - $7 for 25m - Obviously endless varietes of alternatives here. However, in my research it seemed to be the consensus that this was the superior thread. It comes already waxed, and it's extremely durable. The 0.8mm size fits the size 2 needle, and both are great for small projects.
  
  
• Barge Cement Ebay - $4 or $23 - Barge cement is a well known glue for leatherworkers, and works well. It's used to hold edges together to make sewing easier, as well as holding folds down. The thing is, they released a new formula, (the $4 one) that is "eco-friendly" and is missing some key chemicals. This is the one I got. It also kinda sucks at holding leather together. The original formula, (the $23 one), comes in a quart size at the smallest, but from what I heard this one is rock solid and the origin of their reputation. If you're planning on doing many projects I'd just say to invest in the quart.
  
  
• Stitching Pony This is what it looks like - I didn't put a link to a product for this one because all the ones I have seen are ridiculously overpriced. I made my own out of some more scrap hardwood I had laying around, (you can barely see the tip of it in the sewing picture here and it works flawlessly. It's used to hold the leather together so you can saddle stitch it, which requires both hands. Besides the wood, it cost me about $3 in hardware to make my own. You can easily whip one up with some 2x4s and a long bolt, knob, and some screws, for a grand total of probably $5 from home depot. You may need a table or miter saw, or equivalent.
  
  *Some of the eBay listings might have ended, but I'm sure you'll be able to find identical tools for the equivalent price or even cheaper.
  
  For me the tools came out to a grand total of roughly $115. You can give or take $20 if you want to improvise your own tools, or switch them out. I'd say this setup works just fine for mid to smaller projects like what I made, or wallets, etc.
  
  As for the leather, Springfield Leather sells some quality leather by the square foot, which is nice for first timers, as most tanneries only sell by the side, like what I had, which usually average around 21-28 square feet. Pretty big investment. Maverick Leather Company sells quality leathers as well as Horween "Seconds", like what I got for a very nice discount. These seconds are full sides with minor defects in the leather, but unless you're making huge bags it's easy to cut around the brand marks/scars etc, and your leather will look spotless. I got a full side of Horween Essex for roughly $130, and I'm guessing if I bought the same straight for Horween it would have run me in the ballpark of $300 or so. Since my laptop case only used about 7-8% of my leather, I used about $10 worth of leather. Quite a bargain if you ask me. If you're looking to do many projects like I am, I'd advise you to invest in a nice Horween side. Can't beat it for value and price.
  
  All told, the laptop case itself cost about $11-12 worth of materials** (leather, fabric, thread, glue) and took the better part of 2 days to complete. Granted, much of that time was spent just sitting and thinking as most of it was improvisation, as you can see by my horrible sketch.
  
  As far as my "learning" went, it was literally just Google. Some youtube videos help, and I glanced through some forums, but overall, as I've often found in woodworking too, nothing beats hand-on experience.
  
  Well, hope this helped you guys out and answered some questions. I know I definitely would have appreciated a specialized list like this when I was starting out.
  

A few tips to help you out OP:

1. Thin your paint. Generally, 50/50 is good starting point. For future note, buy paint brush cleaner and thinner at your local hardware store. Far cheaper and generally works fine.
   
   
2. You should get an Xacto knife and a flush side cutter like this. Use the flush cutters to get the parts off the spruce, and use the Xacto knife to clean it up. The box cutters you have don't give good control and unergonomic for most modeling work.
   
   
3. If you have a Michele's close by, get their general purpose assortment paintbrush pack. This gives you the flat brushes and quite a bunch of other brushes. The flat brushes are ideal for applying primer/base coat.
   
   
4. Go to your hardware store or automotive store and get an assortment pack of sandpaper.
   
   
5. The kit directions aren't always the way to go. When doing tanks/armor and most kits in general, I recommend following a modular approach. So for tanks, paint your road wheels, hull, etc before gluing it together. This makes it a hell of a lot easier to paint.
   
   
6. You should definitely buy some filler. You'll need it to fill larger gaps the glue won't be able to deal with.
   
   edit:
   
   A few other useful items you should get either now or later, most of this you should have around the house already:
   
   

• A fine point tweezers. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Anti-Static-Flat-Tweezers-Electronic-Repair/dp/B00880EDIO/
  
  
• Toothpicks
  
  
• Cotton swabs
  
  
• Compressed air can
  
  
• If you don't have good light in where ever you setup to work, get a good desk lamp
  
  
• A cutting mat like this: http://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Professional-Cutting-Green-Black/dp/B0015AOIYI/
  

From someone who has never put together a miniature model before KDM, it wasn't that bad actually. Some models are a pain in the ass due to how small the pieces are, and fitting into your fingers.

Most of the models are pretty straightforward. You can use vibrant lantern (http://vibrantlantern.com/) to find how to put together any models that the official KDM website doesn't have.

The armor kits take a little bit more in figuring out how they are supposed to go. Armor kits can make up to 4 survivors, and you can mix and match gear so it's really up to you how to decide to build them.

Also, if you aren't painting them, the stuff below is all you'll need:

Pacer Technology (Zap) Brush on Zap a Gap Adhesives, 1/4 oz

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GB0SE60/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pacer Technology (Zap) Zap-A-Gap Adhesives, 1/2 oz

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SXJJ2OU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Professional 8 PCS Gundam Model Tools Kit

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GH6B3Z6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Alvin Deluxe Professional Self-Healing Cutting Mat

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015AOIYI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sure,

well theres three types of labels, printed cans( cant do anything with )

Wraps ( plastic that has a seam) you can cut these but you have to cut the seam and then snip the top and bottom ring area then it will flatten.

Adhesive labels. ( these work best)

I try to use the edge of an xacto knife or even a fingernail on a part of the label that i know ill maybe trim a hair off of anyway , so that it hides any crinkling.

there are a few companies that its just impossible to get the labels off of, some bottles like Founders, or cans like aslin, dont work well , usually bigger bottles work good though. Prairie works great. I recommend these magnet sheets,

https://www.amazon.com/Craftopia-Magnetic-Adhesive-Anything-Flexible/dp/B071L97W57/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525196048&sr=8-3&keywords=magnet+sheets

and i use xacto knives and a craft mat like this one, https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Professional-Self-Healing-Cutting-GBM1218/dp/B0015AOIYI/ref=sr_1_4?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1525196109&sr=1-4&keywords=craft%2Bcutting%2Bmat&dpID=51gR%252BOrM3WL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1

so you dont cut through it to the table youre on etc, the key to making your cuts nice and clean is putting a good amount of pressure during your cut and cutting fairly slowly.

use a straight edge, use metal rulers, plan out the size of the label, peel it off the can or bottle and affix it adhesive side down on the adhesive side of the magnetic backing. then just square off your edges with cuts and bingo instant fridge magnet.


You can also do it with brewery stickers as well.

It is made of 3/16" black Elmers Foam Board.

The tools I used are:

• Self Healing Cutting Mat
  
• Singer Dressmaker Pins
  
• Wescott Stainless Steel Office Ruler
  
• Aleenes Quick Dry Tacky Glue
  
• Irwin Tools Combination Square
  
• Box Cutters
  
  
  

Probably a Self Healing Cutting Mat. Basically, its a cutting board with measurement marks that doesn't how cut marks if you go through material into it. They are really nice to help avoid cutting into a table/floor/leg when using Exacto knives and the like.

Yep. Great for anything crafty or hobby like. We use ours to chop on the dining table then slide it under the sewing machine to protect against pins gdeagging over the table while seeing. Bigger is much better.


https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Deluxe-Professional-Self-Healing-Cutting/dp/B0015AOIYI?ref_=Oct_CARAsinC_262643011_0&pf_rd_p=953f5140-5995-558e-83c7-0fce631a7ba8&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-5&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_i=262643011&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=5DXD38SGF6WNC15PW4YJ&pf_rd_r=5DXD38SGF6WNC15PW4YJ&pf_rd_p=953f5140-5995-558e-83c7-0fce631a7ba8

Kill Team is a good starting point especially if you get one of the teams you can do with one box like harlequins and Grey knights. One thing to get is a hobby kit with clippers and hobby knife for sure and most likely a cutting mat then you can use plastic glue or super glue to put the models together. For painting you can probably start with citadel and they have a Citadel Paint app that details how to get certain looks on the app stores plus there is Warhammer TV for tutorials and many many more tutorials out there Miniac for one is a great one for beginners. Besides at the store check out Amazon for things since with traffic it might be easier but the store manager would be a great resource of information.

And people are generally very friendly and would welcome someone new and teach them the game and ropes.

Also, on Facebook check out the Independent Characters community and the podcast they live in the Bay area and they mention quite a few other locations where they play and most likely could welcome you to a game or someone in the community would offer help as well.

My ex had this and she was using it for 3-4 years everyday for more than 8 hours a day with 0 wear. It is great if you are ok with how thin it is. Also keep in mind you have to have your desk SUPER CLEAN before you place the mat on the desk, else the silicone/rubber underneath gets damaged and you can fill even the slightest unevenness of the surface a lot. Personally i hate thin mouse pads. I want cushion and height.

For the people interested a good alternative to hard mats that comes at varying thicknesses and sizes are cutting mats. The surface works fine with all 3360 variant sensors. Also i had seen i think in some other forum that a guy wanted a hard thick durable/washable pad and he bought an amazon black plastic cutting board and he said it was great, minus the increased wear of the mouse feet due to the surface texture

the essentials are a good x-acto knife

http://xacto.com/products/cutting-solutions/knives

some white glue ,some paintbrushes to apply the glue,
patience and nimble fingers fingers.

Eventually you could buy a cutting mat so you don't damage your desk.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015AOIYI/ref=s9_top_hd_bw_bHm1Rb_g229_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&pf_rd_r=1X8E5D6R8RTKTFE7RH6V&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=08d57113-94d3-47ec-a3e5-6f0541049cc3&pf_rd_i=262643011

These are the essentials. Now depending if you buy the templates or decide to print them yourself, you might need a good printer and some paper, don't use normal paper, it will be to thin and won't work well you would do better buying thicker paper.
http://www.amazon.com/Neenah-Premium-Cardstock-Brightness-91904/dp/B00006IDRW

for more advice head to /r/papercraft even though it's not a very active sub, there you will find more answers to your questions.

Not sure that exact model, but to find similar things, just search for "cutting mat"

http://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Professional-Cutting-Green-Black/dp/B0015AOIYI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408221320&sr=8-1&keywords=cutting+mat

It's a self healing cutting mat that is made by Alvin. Most of the tools are also randomly picked up on Amazon.

Use one of them
https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Professional-Self-Healing-Cutting/dp/B0015AOIYI/ref=pd_lpo_229_bs_t_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XNADG7T9SV9W25PFQHEP

they help to protect your surface from scratches and paint and comes in a lot of size variants. 8x12 should be enough for the most time

You're looking for a "cutting mat"

The pen is the Sailor 1911 Standard in yellow.

The green matt below is an Alvin self-healing cutting mat that covers the top of my drawing table.

I'm in the US, but this is what I bought (with Prime shipping) from Amazon:

Tamiya Basic Tool Set, $18.90

Gundam Marker 2-pack Black and Gray, $8.99

Alvin 18"x12" Cutting Mat, $9.12

Not sure if this is what you mean by design knife, but you can get an x-acto pretty cheap as an add-on item. I just picked mine up from a local store. Link

Professional Self-Healing Cutting Mat. This item ships to Romania.

Are și pe hobby shop. 39 de lei unul A3, 71 de lei unul A2.

Everything u/jayfehr said is correct. Michael's, Joann Fabrics, and Hobby Lobby are all good sources. Foamcore usually comes in 1/8" and 3/16" thicknesses, and I prefer 3/16" because the thicker edges are easier to glue. Any glue will do the job, but quick dry tacky glue is my personal favorite glue for foamcore building. For rulers, I suggest steel instead of aluminum, or at least something with a steel cutting edge. Xacto blades can chew up an aluminum ruler and dull their own edges in the process. If you're intent on doing this a lot, I also recommend a small T-square because it's important to make nice, clean right angles and a cutting mat to preserve your table and your blades.

Source: Five years of architecture school.

Its just a craft mat from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015AOIYI/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thanks, it's this mat right here. It's pretty good, nice and sturdy.

Here is the mobile version of your link

I have a G9x and I use a cutting mat. Best mouse pad I've ever used. I've had it for years and It's not worn at all.

https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Professional-Self-Healing-Cutting-GBM1218/dp/B0015AOIYI

https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Deluxe-Professional-Self-Healing-Cutting/dp/B0015AOIYI

>I'd have something to protect that table

Good suggestion. I use a self healing cutting mat, something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-Deluxe-Professional-Self-Healing-Cutting/dp/B0015AOIYI/