Reddit Reddit reviews Athorbot 3D Printing Build Surface, Black (Pack of 3) (310mm X 310mm) for CR-10 CR-10S 3D printer

We found 8 Reddit comments about Athorbot 3D Printing Build Surface, Black (Pack of 3) (310mm X 310mm) for CR-10 CR-10S 3D printer. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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Athorbot 3D Printing Build Surface, Black (Pack of 3) (310mm X 310mm) for CR-10 CR-10S 3D printer
[EASY TO INSTALL]:Applying it was super simple, just peel and stick,and no bubbles, print adheres well[EASY TO REMOVE]: take off easily and cleanly.[FULLY COMPATIBLY] 3D Printing build surface durable construction allows for multiple uses with either the same or different filament material. Compatible with ABS, PLA, HIPS, PET+, brick, wood, and flexible (TPE) filaments.[REUSE & CUTTABLE] The 3D-printing build surface is a 310 x 310mm square sheet, reuse for multiple prints, just wipe down with is opropyl alcohol between prints for best results. This sheets can be cut down to desired size by scoring with a utility knife.[SERVICE COMMITMENTS]: We offer 90 Days Money Back Warranty. If you unsatisfied with the quality of our product, you can contact us with your complaints and 100% get your money back.
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8 Reddit comments about Athorbot 3D Printing Build Surface, Black (Pack of 3) (310mm X 310mm) for CR-10 CR-10S 3D printer:

u/markph0204 · 2 pointsr/CR10

I did that too...

I started with the masking tape under the glass. I even printed the Wedge Jack for the dip in center.

Next I replaced the glass with a mirror I purchased at Michaels crafts.

Results improved...but still had a first layer sticking problem from time to time.

Next up was the masking tape on TOP of the mirror -- I did this on the glass too. Did I forget to mention that detail? We were pretty close but removing things from tape -- ouch it was rough and always messed up the tape.

I moved on to putting this on my mirror. So far it has been the best combination of flat + adhesion and I get good prints.

I usually start first layer slow and if the print is small, I slow things down for a bit before there is a few layers down -- than I turn that knob and give it a whirl.

Some prints just like to test my patience and start off poor and I scrap and restart. Heat/cold in the room has affected my prep -- I have found 60 bed/200 tip for PLA has worked best.

If I did it all over -- given everything I have learned -- I would spend more $$ and consider a Prusa perhaps. I'd need to find out who best supported the flat bed.

Other than that the print quality of CR10S is amazing -- and prototypes are cranking out. I am building a gizmo -- and I thought it would be better to be able to just print my designs rather than get them mailed. When I look back at all this -- I think I ended up investing more time in printing than I would have waiting for the mail to arrive. But the adventure was fun.

Patience and good luck!

u/Iowa_Dave · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I have the Athorbot surface on two CR-10S printers and I love it. I had been cutting them down to fit my Ender 3 for a while. Then I bought a TH3D EZMat for my Ender 3 and fell in love. I'll probably get EZMats for the CR-10s when the Athorbots wear out. EZMat has a little more grip and seems to me a bit more durable.

u/techyg · 2 pointsr/CR10

I am using a build surface called Athorbot. It sells in a package of 3 and was only $16 on Amazon. In the past I've printed with BuildTak and PEI on my other printers. I prefer BuildTak to PEI, because with PEI I'm always adding chemicals to it (IPA to clean, Gluestick to reduce adhesion with Flex, Windex to Reduce adhesion with PETG, etc.). I have no idea how good the Arthorbot sheet is, but I've seen people on this sub with it and they seem to like it, so I thought I'd give it a try. It's cheap as chips- so if it doesn't work out, no problem!

The filament I prefer for my flex parts is Sainsmart TPU. I would definitely recommend using some gluestick as /u/PuterPro mentions, because otherwise you'll never get it off, or damage your sheet. I've actually managed to tear up my PEI before because of over adhesion. To be honest, I've also ruined a BuildTak sheet with it, but that was because I was printing too close. (Fortunately, BuildTak is super easy to replace compared to PEI). To clean off the gluestick residue after the print, use a wet (water) paper towel. Don't just rub it with IPA, as it will make an even bigger mess.

Hope this helps and best of luck!

u/The_Cave_Troll · 2 pointsr/prusa3d

Buy some [3D printer surfaces](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073TW738G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) off of Amazon, cut it to shape and use it to replace the PEI. I've had much success also sticking one on the spring steel sheet and using the steel side for super sticky PETG and the other side for everything else.

u/ImArchimedes · 2 pointsr/CR10

$4.84 - 1x Flexible Magnetic Sheet w/ Adhesive Backing

$27.76 - 1x Spring Steel Wear Resistant Sheet

$15.99 - 1x Pack of Athorbot 3d Printing Build Surface Sheets

For CR-10, this was a quality of life improvement and setup took minutes.

Install:

  1. Remove binder clips and glass or whatever you print on. Smash it for the pain it has inflicted on you over the months.

  2. Peel off backing from magnetic sheet, line it up with the build plate adhesive side down, and stick it on there.

  3. Take an Athos ot build sheet and stick it to the spring steel sheet.

  4. Line up your spring steel sheet with the printer bed with magnet sheet on top. Wham. Let them pull together.

  5. Level bed and start printing

  6. Never look back...


    Yes magnets lose polarity with heat but 6 months and no change for me. You could get the heat protected magnet sheet but I heard it's not very sturdy.

    Prints never move during printing and removal is as easy as peel metal build sheet away from magnet and flex it so the part pops off.
u/Jivin_Hipcat · 1 pointr/CR10

Got the same in a pack of 3 on Amazon for about $16 like a week ago. Switched to PETG on CR10 and didn’t want to mess with messy adhesion things. Printed a ton so far and 0 issues. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073TW738G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i_vtlcBb5J9PC69

u/TechnoBillyD · 1 pointr/CR10

If you are printing directly on the glass make sure it is clean. Oil from you touching it is bad. Clean with Isopropal Alcohol before a print.

I ended up buying a cheapie print surface from China. It is mind blowingly good. Now my problem is removing the prints if I am too impatient to let it cool down first.
Initiallly I could not remove the prints but I was being too impatient. I now swap out the print glass if i have to print something straight away, otherwise I have to just let it cool before removing the print.
https://www.amazon.com/Athorbot-Printing-Surface-CR-10S-printer/dp/B073TW738G

u/Xanthyn · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I'm using one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Athorbot-Printing-Surface-CR-10S-printer/dp/B073TW738G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522995749&sr=8-1&keywords=athorbot+build+sheet
Honestly I don't like it as much as genuine buildtak but it gets the job done and it is dirt cheap. I printed that with a big skirt so it wouldn't fall over, and bed adhesion is pretty solid.