Reddit reviews Cybertech Cat6, Cat5e RJ-45 8P8C Ethernet Modular Crimp Connectors Plugs Pack of 100

Read through the links before you add anything to your cart, the tools at the top are what I personally use and can vouch for, the tools at the bottom are in kits and case save you some money if you only do this once in a while but I can't vouch for the quality. I'm also assuming you own a wire stripper.

Crimping tool(17$):

TRENDnet 8P/RJ-45 and 6P/RJ-12, RJ-11 Crimp, Cut, and Strip Tool, TC-CT68 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AZK4G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_piZVAbZZVWPM7

Has a built in perfect cut wire strippers

Connectors(9$):

Cybertech Cat6, Cat5e RJ-45 8P8C Ethernet Modular Crimp Connectors Plugs Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YiZVAb72959BY

Cat5e Cable(25$) (200ft, pre-made but you can clip and make your own out of it)

200FT Feet CAT5 Cat5e Ethernet Patch Cable - RJ45 Computer Networking Wire Cord (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071XBHM6Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RkZVAbZ8D2F00

The cable is actually not that good of a deal because you can get 1000ft for 50$ without any ends, but I was aiming for sub 50$.

Total cost: 51$

Additional extras I'd recommend:

Cable tester(8$) tests if the cables and connections you made are good. A great investment for beginners and pros)

Zoostliss Network Cable Tester RJ45 RJ11 RJ12 UTP LAN Cable Tester Networking Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYXN63/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tnZVAb616Y59H

Cable boots(6$) protect your cable ends from having the tips broken and looks cleaner IMO


uxcell 100 Pcs Soft Plastic Ethernet RJ45 Cable Connector Boots Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K82RNX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qoZVAb54MHXCJ


They also have combo kits like this that exist, I can't speak to their quality but the tools are simple tools so this may save you some scratch

>UbiGear Cable Tester +Crimp Crimper +100 RJ45 CAT5 CAT5e Connector Plug Network Tool Kits (Crimper315) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008UY5WL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hqZVAb8RM9GVK

Has the tester and everything, includes a wire stripper which is nice

>Maxmoral 7 in 1 Cable Tester + Crimp Crimper + Wire Stripper + 50 RJ45 CAT5 CAT5e Connector Plug + 100 Cable Ties + 100 Cable Cord Holder Clips + 2 Ethernet Connector Network Tool Kits https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7S5X6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VrZVAb10QP91E

Same deal, has boots though.

The best way to connect it up so that you have Internet is to get a switch with enough ports to handle all of the jacks, and then wire patch cables coming off of each one of the cables going into that block. You will need a punch down tool ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072K1QHM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_a2sgzbNSBBEK7) a rj45 crimper (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F5PT7G2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_R3sgzb0GCQ5SN) some rj45 connectors ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_m5sgzb3KQHCC8) and some CAT5 cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0034XBFJU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W6sgzb9E3ZTQ4). You strip the wires on both sides. One side gets punched down onto the block (make sure that the colors match) and the other side is terminated with a rj45 connector (make sure that the cable is long enough to reach your switch!). Once they are all terminated, you plug them into the switch, and have your switch hooked up to your Internet modem, and then all of the jacks will have Internet access.

CMR is referred to as Riser cable, it's specifically designed to go between floors in large buildings, has some fire suppressant properties but not much more (main focus is to stop fires from spreading between floors in riser spaces - there's more to it but I'll be brief).

Riser cable is typically solid, since it's purpose is to be installed to go between floors, then jacked on either end, with common grade stranded cable to run to a switch or some equipment; therefore the riser cable is tied down between the floors, and doesn't move a lot, so it doesn't need the mobility of stranded cabling. Stranded can be bent and flexed much more before breaking the end-to-end connection. Unfortunately because of the solid cable, it's not going to be very resistant to being broken, and it's likely you sheered a full connection off. There are 8 in the cable, so 1 of 8 being non-functional, you might lose gigabit capaiblity, the ability to send, or the ability to receive, depending on which specific wire inside the cable is broken. IMO, from the symptom of having a connection but no internet, would mean your tx wires are severed, or compromised. your PC cannot successfully send a request to the rest of the network, so the network does not know to reply; on the same token, your PC is getting a carrier from the RX lines (from the network to your PC), so it "sees" the connection is there.

The only way to be sure is to test the cable and verify, if you don't have a tester, you can maybe use a multi-meter, but it gets tricky if you don't have a helper (unless you can bring the two ends together).

So you have two options:

1. Re-run the entire cable. It's cleaner, neater, provides the highest quality connection and longevity of the link without issues. I would probably go this route if you have the cable, then use the length for two smaller runs, if possible.
   
   
2. patch it together. you have essentially two options for this: if you're a good cabler, and you have the smallest amount of slack, you can get a junction box, and punch down the two sides. along the same lines, if you're not great at punchdowns, you can crimp the two ends and use a coupler. same idea. Your other option is to get two jacks (keystone or otherwise), punch down both sides, which will shorten each cable slightly, then use a very small patch cable to bridge the two connections; this is the only option if there's no slack and you're intent on repairing rather than replacing.
   
   Links for the weary:
   
   Junction: https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-CAT5E-Junction-listed/dp/B0059DRC3G
   
   Coupler: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Coupler-Ethernet-Extender-Adapter/dp/B016B13U9Y
   
   Jacks: https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-10-Pack-Punch-Down-Keystone/dp/B00IO3HEN6
   
   Ends: https://www.amazon.com/Cybertech-Cat5e-RJ-45-Ethernet-Connectors/dp/B00LG6DQUI
   
   those are just to get you started, there's lots of manufacturers that follow the specifications (TIA/EIA 568/569), so by no means do you have to buy what I've linked; I just want you to have an idea of what you're looking for. I don't necessarily endorse one brand or manufacturer over another for this, I actually don't know any of the brands I linked, so buyer beware, as usual.
   
   Side note: Riser should not be used for Plenum space (anything relating to HVAC); doing so can create toxic smoke that's vented throughout the building in the event of a fire. It also violates fire code, so please be careful where you use Riser cable. in wall, along baseboards, etc, is fine. Anything to do with HAVC, dropped ceilings, through vents... needs to be plenum grade.

Extremely easy, you just need a crimp tool and a couple extra heads.

Then just follow a wiring diagram.

(Some are wired differently, if you have it plugging into a switch or a router, just make sure the order matches the order on the other end of the cable)

Okay so heres my new plans for the design:

250FT Stranded UTP Cat6 - $45

Cat6 Connectors for UTP Stranded - $11

12 Port Vertical Mini Patch Panel for Cat6 - $20

8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Switch - $29

10 Pack Wall Plate 2-Port Keystone Jack - $10

10 Pack Keystone Jack Cat6 - $14

Total: $129, but previously $131 (100ft cat6 + connectors + wall jacks) and this does much more. Would that be good?

RJ45 tester

wall plate mounting bracket

keystone wall plate

keystone f/f jack

CAT6 ends

The setup from your diagram should work.

Edit: the wall plate has various options for the number of jacks.

Ahh, the connectors I bought say stranded, so that may be it...


It has inexplicably started working 100% on its own for now at least, but if i replace the connectors with some meant for solid cable you think it will probably resolve the issue?

Battery backup on the rack for your servers.

Scratch the pre-maid cat cables and just learn crimp your own cabling.


Cybertech Cat6, Cat5e RJ-45 8P8C Ethernet Modular Crimp Connectors Plugs Pack of 100 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LG6DQUI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_p7Q2AbHFZP2YW

Network Cable Repair Maintenance Tool Kit Set 11 in 1 Portable Phone Cable Crimper 8P8C 4P4C 6P6C Connectors RJ45 RJ11 Cat5 Cat6 Cable Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0756SN86D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o5Q2AbBW77GFT

I also recommend an anti-static mat if you are a builder:

StarTech.com 24x27.5-Inch Desktop Anti-Static Mat M3013 (Beige) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00009XT3H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_e9Q2AbGZVFVJ2

If this is a builder workbench I would also recommend a good surge strip:

Bestten 12 Outlet Heavy Duty Workshop Metal Power Strip Surge Protector, 15-Foot Long Extension Cord, ETL Certified, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074MY384H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l-Q2AbTXDXJAX

Lastly, how is your lighting in the room?

The advantage of using Ubiquiti stuff is the amount of info available: https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ubiquiti+nanostation+ptp

PtP means Point-to-point, which is the kind of link you want to do. You will need some outdoor ethernet cable and a crimp tool + connectors. A simple cable tester would be useful too to make sure the cable is OK.

Also, Ubiquiti uses passive PoE. Plug your injector correctly or it will fry your computer's network card!

Don't hesitate to contact me if you have any more questions!