Reddit reviews Motor Speed Controller, DROK Motor Control Board AC 110V 4000W Adjustable Voltage Regulator SCR High Power Dimmer Controller Temperature Governor Dimming Monitor

No worries, sounds like you only have the cell right now. I'll skip all the safety stuff but I will say, if you aren't absolutely positive what you are doing, stop. The lowly NA outlet has a tremendous current surge rating. You'll die and never know it. Before continuing, you do absolutely need to know your outlet is wired correctly and you'll want to confirm which part of your circuit is the live or hot wire.

Do you need AC or DC to operate your cell? If you can operate it on AC, you'll only need a heavy 3 prong power cord, the circuit board in the link above and a fuse holder and fuse rated for the power input required.

If you need DC then you'll also need a bridge rectifier rated (guessing) 35 amps.

Since you don't yet know the actual circuit current, you'll need some device to monitor the incoming power. Here is what I'd do:

1. Fill the cell with whatever fluid you plan on using.
   
2. Connect the cell to a low voltage power supply (automotive battery charger).
   
3. Measure operating voltage and current. This is a basic sanity check before trying to shove big power through this thing. You'll need to confirm that your battery charger is actually outputting 12 volts into the cell.
   
4. If all is well, ( your battery charger was able to output 12 volts DC (you measured it right) into the cell withoutA destruction) Then prepare the real deal.
   
5. Disregard everything I've said because one minor fault with electricity and water will kill you.
   
6. Connect heavy power cord with fuse in the line or hot side of power cord usually a black or brown wire. You'll need to figure this out.
   
7. Connect other side of fuse to the switching device above or better. The link I listed if likely not an ideal unit after further review. Similar devices from amazon are probably suitable for testing or experimentation.
   
8. Connect to to your cell.
   
   Before plugging this death trap into the wall, confirm you have a 2-5 amp fast blow fuse Installed in the fuse holder. We only want to initially tickle the dragon. Double check the device is turned off. This one looks more beefy:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Regulator-Controller-Temperature-Governor/dp/B00BXUCWQG/ref=pd_sbs_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BXUCWQG&pd_rd_r=SCK4RH8538ARSNVKPSVS&pd_rd_w=WLQ1A&pd_rd_wg=qgTGd&psc=1&refRID=SCK4RH8538ARSNVKPSVS
   
   
   Hide your wife and kids, connect to power while shielding your eyes.
   
   You should now be able to slowly turn up the power while monitoring the input current. You really need something to at least be able to look at how much current you are pushing.
   
   If all goes well, swap the fuse to something in the 10 amp range and keep slowly turning it up.
   
   If you need DC let me know own and I'll draw something up for you.
   
   If you have even the smallest question about anything I've said ask. Please. I don't want to hear about anyone on the news..
   
   
   UPDATE:
   That site seems to aim toward 12 volt DC hho cells. At 1100 design watts that's pushing nearly 100 amps! Is this part of your design? To run that off of a standard 110 volt AC outlet, you are definitely going to need a large power supply. Again, I can help but it likely isn't going to be cheap unless you are ready to scrounge and learn more about electricity.
   
   

Insulation

Controller

High temp silicone

Supply cord

Thermometer

Elements

Insulation adhesive

So, this setup is certainly not perfect and has the potential for uneven heat disbursement but it has worked well for me.

I drilled 3 holes about 3 inches from the bottom of the cabinet for the heating elements and used thin aluminum stock cross members to support them. The holes were sealed with silicon which also helps keep the elements in place.

The entire inside of the cabinet has a layer of cut-to-fit insulation and the seams are taped with high temp flue tape.

I have 2 threaded steel rods running horizontally and offset for hanging parts.

The thermometer is at the top and generally runs a large number of degrees cooler than the parts but I have a good feel for time and tackiness when flashing and layering. I prefer longer cure times at lower temperatures. You can cure this stuff at 150 degrees if you want...it just takes a hell of a lot longer.

The rest of the stuff is just wired up and I'm sure its a huge fire hazard and I have zero experience with this kind of thing but it has worked for me so far without a problem. It's set up in my garage with tons of ventilation and a fire extinguisher close by.

Sure, here's the controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BXUCWQG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The bridge rectifier:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E1GEZHS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And the replacement potentiometer, although you don't really need this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AA5OIFC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And yes, this eliminates the control board, this is now your control. You'll also need a 30a power switch and an electrical box to put all this in. I had a switch am fabricating the box.

https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Regulator-Controller-Temperature-Governor/dp/B00BXUCWQG/ref=pd_day0_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BXUCWQG&pd_rd_r=RHDVTMHJAVMYQ4SCW7R1&pd_rd_w=bCbon&pd_rd_wg=JacZ0&psc=1&refRID=RHDVTMHJAVMYQ4SCW7R1

There's another. $20 ish.

Lots of people dont use controllers. have a couple thermometers to see where to cut your heads and tails. Its pretty simple stuff.

Edit: These can help but are not required
https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Electronic-Regulator-Governor-Thermostat/dp/B00BXUCWQG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1373347764&sr=1-1&keywords=110v+ac+scr