Reddit reviews URBEST AC 250V 5A SPDT 1NO 1NC Momentary Hinge Roller Lever Micro Switches 3 Pins 10 Pcs

I moved shops recently and wanted to have piped dust collection so I started working on that. Somewhere while watching some videos I saw several where people had blast gates that switched the DC on and off and I was like that's awesome but they didn't go into much detail. I finally accidentally found one that gave a better idea of what products they used and bought the parts, tested it out and implemented it. It works great.

To turn on the collector I just open a blast gate. To turn off the collector I close the blast gate. Pretty simple and it makes it very hard to forget to close a blast gate and use another tool with reduced suction.

Short video of it in action: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59u5zHttUn4

The parts I used:

• PowerSwitchTail II
  
• Micro switches
  
• 20/2 bell wire
  
  Edit: Oh and of all the methods I used to cut the DWV piping (bandsaw for shorter pieces and cleaning up, sawzall with a crappy miterbox-style 90 cutting guide and a handsaw in the same guide) the handsaw I think was the easiest to get a nice cut.

Information Fire Hose

it's a common arcade button replacement micro switch.

if you dont have a bunch of arcade buttons sitting about and need to order a part to do the mod, get these instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MFRMFS6 . it will make the pedal action not snap so much, and because you don't need so much force you can put it closer to the middle if you like.

the switch is attached to the side with 1" #4-40 screws and nuts... but if you plan to gig or tour it, buy nylon lock nuts for them or the shit will fall off constantly.

the jacks I used are also stereo, and the freeze trigger is on the tip and ring to avoid chassis grounding issues affecting the audio signal path. I just used a normal aux input cable to wire it.

happy soldering :P

(edits, I hate typing on mobile)

I used LED tape found off Amazon...super cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF65MC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I just used 22 gauge wire I got from Home Depot to solder the positive / negative to a 12v power supply. To turn the lights on and off, I just used a cheap limit switch:

https://www.amazon.com/URBESTAC-Momentary-Hinge-Roller-Switches/dp/B00MFRMFS6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1536763141&sr=8-3&keywords=limit+switch

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I'll try to take some pictures when I get home tonight.

Limit switches are very cheap, so you’ll pay more for shipping than the actual part itself. For example, the cheapest thing on amazon is a 10-piece set ($7)
https://www.amazon.com/URBESTAC-Momentary-Hinge-Roller-Switches/dp/B00MFRMFS6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3

A lot of printers come with a spare, so if you have any friends with a printer, you might ask if they have any spares. Voltage/amperage doesn’t matter, it’s just a small 5V signal line so you won’t blow anything up.

The switch doesn’t even need to look the same as the original, it can be anything. It only matters that it “clicks” at the same spot each time, which all limit switches will do. This switch just tells the printer where the bottom of the print bed is.
The only thing that matters is that you have the same two mounting screw holes (which most of these limit switches have).

The limit switch isn’t axis-specific, meaning you could use the same switch for the X,Y, or Z axis.
When the button clicks, that’s the equivalent of touching the two wires together.

Edit: if you really want to save money, here’s a set for $4.80 https://www.ebay.com/itm/5-pc-TEMCo-Micro-Limit-Switch-Lever-Arm-Subminiature-SPDT-Snap-Action-LOT/191202625167

Edit 2: if you live in the US, go to a local RadioShack. They’re roughly $1-2 there. https://www.radioshack.com/collections/switches/products/spdt-switch-without-roller?variant=20332090693

URBESTAC 250V 5A SPDT 1NO 1NC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MFRMFS6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I just used a spring I had laying around, no idea what the spring constant was. I would recommend a pretty stiff spring.

These. They are a bit tall, but it's fine.

Haven't built van yet, but for both my current car and truck I have a little garmin like this that has no monthly fees or anything and all it does is GPS, using free google maps.


The benefit to me is that I absolutely do not want touch-screen controls in a car for AC and things like that, it's just another thing to go wrong, and I mount it right here (sorry too lazy to go take a pic to I drew it) where it's invisible to anyone looking at the car due to tinted side windows to the darkest legal limit. I do not have to connect/disconnect my phone, I don't need a little cradle taking up my windshield, and I can glance over at it just fine. I have one mounted in the "top" glove box of my tundra as well and that one is super hidden. I did it first so I even put a cheap microswitch on the door that turns on the device when it opens.


If they ever break, who cares? Buy a new one they are dirt cheap. No fiddling with phones, nothing sitting on the dash, and concealing it I think might help against people breaking in. Even though they are only like $50, there's bound to be someone out there who thinks they are more valuable or would break the glass for $50.