Best adhesive caulk according to redditors

Plz

Oh boy, have I! We call them the Driven Sleeve (named after one of the hardest local routes). It's the Mcdavid 401 knee sleeve with rubber glued on it: Mcdavid 401 knee sleeve. I think this is also what they use in Rifle. Size it larger than you think you need. I'm an XS in the Send wizard sleeve, and the medium Mcdavid sleeve is almost too tight for me.

And then we use 'Aquaseal + FD' (found here) to glue on some climbing rubber. Buy three tubes for two pads.

Some tips:

Since we've had kneebar pads in the past which were worn out or shitty, we just recycled that rubber, but if you don't have any I'd go to a local resoler and ask for some.

Position the rubber as close to the bottom of the pad as possible. This way you can get the rubber in on some really marginal knee bars.

Glue the rubber on the sleeve on a flat surface with wax paper inside the sleeve. This way when the glue soaks through the neoprene in places (which is a good thing) it won't stick to itself and cause the pad to stick shut.

Use more glue than you think you need, the neoprene really likes to soak it up.

Once it's all glued down, spread glue around the edges of the rubber (be liberal with it) and then press it down with a flat surface and a lot of weight. Let it cure for at least 8 hours.

These pads still require duct tape, but with duct tape they're some of the best knee pads out there.

One way to make it even better is to glue bicycle inner tube around the circumference of the top of the pad. Don't do this until you've figured out how yours fits though, as the inner tube can make them much tighter. If it's too tight I would just put inner tube on the anterior and posterior sides of the pad. The rubber is good because 1) duct tape sticks better to rubber than to neoprene and 2) your sweat won't soak through the rubber and compromise the duct tape.

Let me know if you have any more questions.

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Edit: I just saw that you only need this for single use. This is probably overkill for single use. But regardless, I got excited and now you know how to make a pad that is actually good ;)

Laminate seam filler (Seam-Fil or similar) and then furniture wax. Pretty simple, just takes a little elbow grease to polish it up. Even just wax will help with the smaller scratches.

This or similar: https://www.amazon.com/White-Seam-Fil-1-Oz-Tube/dp/B0006G84RO/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1495748668&sr=1-1&keywords=white+laminate+filler

http://smile.amazon.com/Gear-Aid-Aquaseal-Flexible-Adhesive/dp/B001XUMBIA

Just remove the driver and apply it from the back to maintain the appearance.

There are products like this but I have never used them. Lots of tools too. I usually just use finger or a piece of cardboard or plastic cut to shape. (Don't cut finger to shape, pick a different finger if not correct shape) , smooth passes and practice is the best advice I can give. Also don't be afraid to waste some silicone.

My contractor recommended Lexel. Expensive stuff, but never molds/mildews.

FFS, whatever you do don't use tape - you'll make an unholy mess.

There's insulation putty you can get at e.g. Home Depot that comes in strips about 3/4" wide and 1/4" thick. It's just sticky enough to stay where you put it, but it will clean up easily when you want to take it off. You can do multiple layers to make it wider, thicker, etc.

We have the same problems with the screens in our house; I haven't gotten around to making new ones, so I used this instead.


https://www.amazon.com/Frost-King-P14H-Fingertip-Caulk/dp/B002FYIOFC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=frost+king+rope+caulk&qid=1554598392&s=hi&sr=1-2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RND466/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_.9uvDbZABV56K

This is the cheapest option. There are more advanced for more money

http://www.amazon.com/18324-Seal-Removable-Caulk-10-1-Ounce/dp/B0002YVNOQ

I've tried a bunch of different things and none of them work all that well unless its only overnight.

I recently started using these and they're amazing. I've had tubes of adhesive with them for a few weeks and they still work perfectly. You can also usually reuse them if you only need to use a little caulk or adhesive from a tube, or are putting it on a new tube of the same material so they last quite a while.

Use Big Stretch, that stuff is amazing.
https://www.amazon.com/Sashco-Stretch-Performance-Caulking-Cartridge/dp/B005VQ2X30

of course. If you are worried about getting a good seal, you can use various non-hardening materials as a gasket.

Though I think some speakers you simply repair through the speaker cutout.

If you have access to the back of the hole, cut a piece of wood to fill the hole just shy of flush and hold in place with tape on the back side. Mask off the shelf holes. Use Seam-Fil to finish the patch. Remove masking before Seam-Fil is cured. Drill any shelf holes that are missing.

You can use styrofoam in place of wood as a filler but that's not a very kind way to fix it for the next tenants.

I've been eyeing a product called Lexel - it seems to have great reviews everywhere, but I've never had any experience with it.

I use [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Rope-Caulk-Weatherstripping-90-White/dp/B00002N78W) cord caulk for my windows and it works quite well.

Like this? Are you suggesting that I should dump my DAP and only use this?

https://www.amazon.com/Sashco-10016-10-5oz-10-5-Ounce-Cartridge/dp/B005VQ2X30/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1520202218&sr=8-3&keywords=big+stretch+caulk

If you do end up going the caulk route check out Big Stetch.

http://www.amazon.com/Sashco-Sealants-10016-10-5oz-Stretch%C2%AE/dp/B005VQ2X30/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422732841&sr=8-1&keywords=big+stretch

The stuff is pretty amazing.

Maybe it’s cheating but this stuff works for just about anything:

DAP 27511 10oz DynaGrip Heavy Duty Max Exterior & Interior Construction Adhesive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N7VG62S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Y4qDAbQRRRG6C

They're actually super-reasonable on price.

On the inside, in our old home (with very old windows) we used rope caulk which was easy to apply and much easier than caulk to remove in the Spring. video

Looks like you need to kill the circuit, remove the switch and outlet, and figure out what went wrong with the previous method of attachment. Could be as easy as putting in some new screws through the box and into the wall, or bolts if it's actually anchored, but I can't see an existing attachment method that failed so it's hard to say. Anyway, I haven't had much luck with that style of gasket so I'd say you should go with some of this. It's the best caulk I've found so far for exterior sealing and I'd bet it will work much better than that gasket against the wall. Just run a bead around the box and finish it with a plastic spoon once you've resecured the box. Best of luck!

i would recommend getting a can of this or something similar. Drill a tiny hole in the wall, and empty the bottle in the wall near the pipe, it expands and might give you enough insulation in there to keep it from freezing and without opening the wall up. If the wall is white get some of this and just wipe it over the hole you made, or if its in a not so noticeable place, fuck it and leave it or get some similar looking paint and cover it. This is all a last resort attempt before opening the wall and insulating it yourself, no guarantees this will work at all.

insulation is a big big deal, as is chasing air leakage. for a short term fix you can use rope caulk which you roll it to the right thickness and push in with a putty knife. this will move the draft somewhere else, but at least it won't be blowing at your feet.

Removable window sealant
https://www.amazon.com/18324-Seal-Removable-Caulk-10-1-Ounce/dp/B0002YVNOQ

I used to love this stuff when i was a kid. i remember Nintendo Power used to put maps in their magazines and there was like a full 10" strip holding it in there.

As an adult I know this stuff as Peel N Seal caulking. You can put it on to seal windows and peel it right off. Same stuff, but it comes in a giant caulking tube!

Draft Seal Caulking works pretty well for doors or windows you're not going to be opening regularly.

I have not gotten there just yet and luckily my roof is metal, so I was able to attach framing with rivnuts-- but if you are faced with this and you have fiberglass ceiling, I would install furring strips (1x2 or 2x2) using a Gorilla Glue construction adhesive like this one https://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-8008002-Ultimate-Construction-Adhesive/dp/B07MMF7FHD/ref=sr_1_4?crid=27S4836F586LD&keywords=gorilla+glue+construction+adhesive&qid=1571854698&sprefix=gorilla+glue+construc%2Caps%2C165&sr=8-4 (did some research, apparently this cures faster than locktite and holds better).The strips would be your framing. Then you can install whatever ceiling material you want (e.g. ship lap, tongue and groove) you want and secure it to the framing :)

Edit: I am not a pro - but I have seen others here do this so I think it should work fine. I would recommend swinging by the subreddit again on the 25th during the pro van builders AMA and ask them just to see what they recommend. Measure 2x, cut 1x ;)

Gorilla 8005202 Construction Adhesive, 1-Pack, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JZD36KS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0fvZDbJPN67XG

Is this it? Do I need a caulking gun?

I'm assuming this is just a standard caulk gun?

I'm not sure how that's any more dangerous than playing with metal pots and pans. Most people let their young kids do that; I'd say it's fine.

http://www.amazon.com/18324-Seal-Removable-Caulk-10-1-Ounce/dp/B0002YVNOQ

=)

If you don't want to go to through a chain of command to find a solution, I have a recommendation on how you can fix the issue yourself.

You can use a product like DAP Seal and Peel to temporarily seal the windows completely. I use the stuff in the winter to seal the windows in my house (118 year old farmhouse.. drafts aplenty), and it works great.

You need good ventilation while installing it, so it would need to be done at a time you can open up the home. But once cured it should keep everything out!

Addressing separation anxiety takes time.

For your dog's safety, I suggest addressing a better crate first. One thing you may want to try is a crate like this. I’ve never used this crate, so I don’t know how durable it is, but because of how it’s designed it’s harder to chew on. You may want to reinforce the lock with two hasps one on each the top and bottom. Or four hasps, top and bottom on the left and right sides of the door, I don’t know how strong the crate is. Just make sure to secure any hasps in a way that screws don’t go through the door, one option is Liquid Nails which may be combined with small screws that won’t go through the door, but Liquid Nails should be sufficient if applied correctly. You may also want to put this crate in a corner where it can have strong walls on as many sides as possible.

There are more secure crates, ones made of all metal with solid walls, however those tend to be very expensive.

The most important things (besides a physically safe environment) are

1. The dog always knows that you will come back
   
2. The crate is a fun, and low-stress place for your dog
   
3. Exercise
   
   The dog always knows that you will come back
   
   Leave for less than a minute, and then come back, but don’t make a big deal of it. Just act like you are leaving for a while (jacket, keys, etc) and then go outside, wait, and come back in. Do this a few times a day. You don't need to put the dog in the crate for this.
   
   Once you can leave for a minute, make it two, then five. Once you are at five minutes, put the dog in the crate, then get your stuff, then leave.
   
   When you come back, let the dog out of the crate but don't make a big deal. Let him out, go get some water, sit down, act normal.
   
   The key is that the dog knows you are coming back, and that this is normal activity.
   
   The crate is a fun, and low-stress place for your dog
   
   Fill Kongs with your dog's highest-value treats and put them in the crate whenever you leave. You want to build a positive association with the crate, and the easiest way to do this is with food.
   
   Try covering the crate with blankets, you can get moving blankets cheap on Amazon.
   
   Or for a little more you can get something a little nicer if you don’t want to look at an ugly moving blanket.
   
   I suggest getting the 12 pack, dogs sometimes destroy the crate covers so it's handy to have spares.
   
   The idea is just to make the crate dark and to help it be a calm, distraction-free environment. Whenever you put the dog in the crate, cover it completely with the blanket. It won't block sound, but keeping it dark helps.
   
   I don't know if this product works, I'm not affiliated with the company and I've never used it before but try a Snuggle Puppy.
   
   AKC calls it:
   >This is the ideal toy for anxious puppies.
   
   Just note that AKC's description is on a page trying to sell you the product, so be cautious.
   
   I also suggest a conversation with your vet about anxiety meds, something that is acts quickly and doesn’t stay in the dog’s system too long. Meds are not a solution, but they can help. If the dog is so anxious he can’t focus on the Kong, it doesn’t matter how good the Kong is. The right medical solution helps the dog focus on the training. I’ve used anxiety medicine with dogs with good results.
   
   Exercise
   
   Make sure your dog is getting enough exercise, a tired dog is a calm dog. It’s hard to be anxious when passed out from playing and walks.
   
   Try anything
   
   You said you are willing to try anything, so here are some solutions that are less than proven.
   
   

• Calming collars (or calming disks), manufactures claim the product releases calming scents
  
• DogTV, I’m not kidding, it claims it’s programming is calming for dogs. For a lot less money, put a YouTube nature playlist

Liquid Nails LN700 4-Ounce (2 Pack) Small Projects and Repairs Adhesive https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C656Y0Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_4.r7BbCVG3RY9

Just get it in a caulking tube. It'll be way cheapper, and better for your purposes.

Lol, how long did it take? And this? Sashco 13010 10.5oz Sashco Sealants Clear Lexel Adhesive Caulk, 10.5-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PSDEKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nsQOCbPNXYDP7

What it looks like

If you have to go from Amazon, this stuff is extremely high bonding. But you will need more than a quart is my guess. T88 I have used this stuff a fair bit, not a real long working time.

I have not used this stuff but its available, and the dosing pumps make mixing very nice. 5:1 kit

Sometimes what you need is some black caulk. I know it's really hard to find in Japan, but once you've tried some black caulk, you'll never have to worry about seeing mildew again.

Checked online and found this stuff ... never used but looks promising from a color match


https://www.amazon.com/Kampel-901-White-Seam-Fil-Tube/dp/B0006G84RO

Wetsuit repair glue.

If you re-caulk your tub, make sure you strip the old caulking, and make sure it's cleaned really well (use alcohol). Use a Silicone based caulk with mildew resistance. spread a thin bead and knock it down with your finger, or alternatively one of these tools.

Plumbing is a great trade to get into. I'm a Red Seal plumber, which means I can work throughout Canada, except Quebec. Plumbers in Canada also receive a gasfitter ticket in most provinces, allowing us to work on furnaces/boilers/hot water tanks. It pays around $50-60,000/year as a journeyman (4 years of college), but an entry level labourer can expect to make about half that.