(Part 2) Best antitheft products according to redditors
We found 201 Reddit comments discussing the best antitheft products. We ranked the 99 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
If you have the transmitter and key still you can buy just the plastic shell [here is one on Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07L9RHC3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rzw7CbS2B34XV)
I personally use this one. If anything, it's almost too sensitive at times, but I seriously love it. I know that it works too.
http://www.amazon.com/Megatronix-Programmable-Illuminated-Immobilizer-Security/dp/B000U3HYN8
Or just be a father and punish your son.
Any system will likely be easily overridden with a little internet searching.
Better idea - get a silicon cover on amazon, eBay, or aliexpress (usually the cheapest).
https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Smart-Cover-Mercedes-benz-Models/dp/B00CVFIIZG
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They even have some really nice ones now - https://www.amazon.com/Uxinuo-Mercedes-Premium-Protection-Compatible/dp/B07PN2MSP5/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_263_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3ME5T8D326RC41H1K7PP
I’m an mechanic and and owner as well so I see both sides. Your intuition is right to get it out, it’s going to suck but the peace of mind is worth it.
Not sure if you already have some but some mechanical fingers will help you as it gets closer to getting it out.
The fuel will be a double edge sword, it will enable the float to float, but once it’s floating it’s going to move all over. My recommendation is once you get a visual on the float, try to grab it a bit with the fingers. If that doesn’t work get it positioned within the ribbed compartment of where the fuel cap is and drain the tank. Once the fuel is out of the compartment the float won’t be so easily moved and will be easier to grab with mechanical fingers, a bent coat hanger, what ever it takes to try to get the float close to the fuel cap.
In regards to draining the tank, obviously you can use the fuel drains but that will take forever and is kinda messy. I’d recommend purchase a siphon to speed it up. My favorite go to is the super siphon because it’s got a glass marble on the end to prime the line you just shake it up and down so there’s no drinking fuel and it has great flow once started. It comes in handy for jobs like this or say you decide to bring the extra person but your tanks are topped you can cleanly drain fuel into 5 gallon cans to shed the excess fuel. I know it says unavailable but look around the farm supply stores, home improvement stores, etc and you’ll be able to find one if you want that brand.
Not sure about the waterproof on the borescope you have. Depending on the unit it might not be waterproof but I’d check with the manufacturers specs to get an idea.
So the bad news will be if that float doesn’t float your going to have to go even deeper and remove sheet metal to find it. I imagine if your fuel tank indications were normal or at least somewhat working(at least reads full or close to it when full) it will float. This is rare but can happen.
Good luck, happy fishing!
This sucks, and I'm sorry to hear it. There are motorcycle alarms with tipover sensors for not too much money, FYI
Example:
http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-Automotive-8007-Motorcycle-Transmitter/dp/B0042VVJGW
Buy these and keep your other keys in your pocket:
https://www.amazon.com/Megatronix-Quick-Release-Disconnect-Keychain/dp/B001D3MF60?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0
kwmobile Car Key Cover for BMW -... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KRJHJ23?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I haven't went on the highway with it, today was the first ride and it felt like the wind was being broken up around my chest and not as much pushing at 45-50mph.
Some notes because the reviews are iffy: mine arrived in a ton of foam, no box, which was odd. It did take a month because it came from Taiwan or China, the mounting hardware was adequate for me and I didn't find any little scratches or dings.
UltraSupplier Windshield Windscreen Wind Shield Protector for 2018-2019 Yamaha MT FZ 07 MT-07 (Smoke) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LBGKYMT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_X.UuDbB4SYJD1
My first thought. Amazon sells wireless kill switches.
Almost certainly an aftermarket car alarm shock sensor.
Similar to this: https://www.amazon.com/Directed-Electronics-504D-Double-Stinger/dp/B0009SXOTC
The trim pots are there to adjust sensitivity.
AJT DESIGN Climate Knobs (FJ Cruiser) Voodoo Blue https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P1DK4LJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K7DxDbYHFJCWQ
superglue and a stick?, get one of these
My fully loaded speed did not come with automatic headlights for some reason (thanks Mazda) so I bought this. It's not perfect but it works well. It turns on the low beams whenever it's dark enough or you can just hide the light sensor under the dash and it will turn on the lights whenever the car is on. I've had it for 3-4 years now without a single issue.
Hmm, I'm really surprised that your fusion doesn't have auto lights. I thought they were standard on all the '10-12 models. Modules that add this functionality exist
This has a 190 motor in it and a different wiring harness. The alarm/remote start was plug and play. There is an aux port on the wiring harness these alarms plug into (this isn't the exact one but most are the same). You just need to run one wire to a ground.
I've since removed the ignition switch and dropped in a USB quick charger and replaced the stock fenders with some 2017's.
There' still a couple of bugs to work out but it's getting there.
Looks really nice. I've been debating on where to place a switch that's out of the way but easy to reach, and this seems like it would work well.
Is there a reason you tapped the heated seat fuse rather than just connecting the switch and an in-line fuse on the normal NPP circuit? I thought tapping the seat fuse was to prevent the wireless receiver on the M2W kit from draining battery?
Also, if anyone reading this has plans to get a M2W kit, save yourself some cash and buy this instead. The "official" kits just add a bit of wire, a spade connector, and a fuse tap.
Here's one I found. It's not just the shell, it's the whole fob apparently. But I found a locksmith near me willing to get me the fob, program it and cut it for $200 and it's guaranteed to work, so I'll probably just do that.
you might like these?
>I'm figuring that a key box made of metal, or lined with aluminium foil would be appropriate to advise.
I'd just buy something like [this]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JBSK61G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NVDwCbQXVHZ4X) in that case.
Is this a better deal?
Compustar CS7900-AS All-in-One 2-Way Remote Start and Alarm Bundle w/ 3000 feet Range https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMX118W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qml.Bb0CCEDMJ
I got this on Amazon, does a great job
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07G5BVDRJ/ref=pe_3034960_236394800_TE_3p_dp_1
The flash drive and sim remover go inside the zipper pocket of the wallet. The sim remover doubles as a toothpick.
I'm looking for information on interlock systems that I can install into my first car that I'll be getting in 2018, and I want it to be a keypad interlock. My biggest problem is that google searches tend to associate "interlock" with "breathalyzers".
What I want is a standalone keypad interlock that serves as a second layer of anti-theft security for my car. If they manage to bypass the key ignition, great. But it shouldn't start if they don't know the PIN number I've encoded into the keypad interlock.
That's the idea of it, anyway. I find analog solutions to be more trustworthy than a keyless ignition system, whose wireless signals can be intercepted and cloned by skilled thieves.
Edit: Found one, but it doesn't appear to offer a "two-stage" authentication where there's a second device in the engine bay that has to check for an authentication signal from the keypad before allowing the circuit to be completed. Here's the example - https://www.amazon.com/Megatronix-Illuminated-Digital-Immobilizer-Security/dp/B000U3HYN8
maybe get one of these and one of these?
counter-counter-counter-measures...
You have to realize that most of these thieves are just stealing the car to dick around, they don't really want to deal with sawing a steering wheel and are likely not even carrying a saw. It's just to make it more likely that someone goes and steals the other Civic without a club on it. There's really no such thing as making your car entirely theftproof, it's just to make your car slightly more annoying to steal vs the other one down the street.
There was also a version of the club that had a weird metal shield for the rest of the steering wheel to make it harder to saw through-think a steering wheel cover made out of steel, only problem is that you have to get lucky and have it fit your steering wheel well. Apparently they still sell it. But honestly all this stuff is just there to make the thief pick a different car-your average idiot looking to steal a car for a joyride doesn't really know whether this shield actually fits your model correctly anyway.
Looks like you need a Shock Sensor And/Or a Car Alarm
That key fob chain is just about the stupidest design they could have come up with...
This design is so much nicer
https://www.amazon.com/AziPro-Alumium-Keyless-Remote-Protection/dp/B07H78X3VX