Best aquarium filter accessories according to redditors
We found 1,436 Reddit comments discussing the best aquarium filter accessories. We ranked the 372 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 1,436 Reddit comments discussing the best aquarium filter accessories. We ranked the 372 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Absolutely. DIY CO2 is ridiculously easy. I’m not that technically inclined so if I can do it anyone can. This may seem like a lot but it’s not as bad as it looks. I used to use the Fluval 88g CO2 system but it was ludicrously expensive to but the proprietary refill canisters. This setup is soooo cheap and completely reliable and produces ample CO2. I’m happy to tell you some pitfalls once you get it set up because it would be hard for you to follow me without having it in front of you.
DIY CO2 Aquarium Plant System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_o0JPDbTTNQCT0
Fluval 88g-CO2 Bubble Counter - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_40JPDb482G6RQ
Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-3JPDbJ43F4ZG
Milliard Citric Acid 5 Pound - 100% Pure Food Grade NON-GMO Project VERIFIED (5 Pound) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EYFKNL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_34JPDb122FQKM
ARM & HAMMER Pure Baking Soda 8 oz (Pack of 6) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00860VYYC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A5JPDb8FKP7NN
2 x normal 2 liter soda bottles
> My question is should I add a heater and small sponge filter or will the heat shock him now since he’s acclimated to room temp water for so long?
If you're worried you could get an adjustable heater and slowly increase the temperature of the water over the course of a week. It's super worth it to spend the couple extra bucks on an adjustable heater anyways.
For nano aquariums I personally love this heater: https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/heaters/products/copy-of-archaea-mini-aquarium-heater-25w-ultra-slim
It's really tiny and the heating adjustment is along the wire so you don't have to stick your hands in the tank.
As for the sponge filter, you should be able to just start using it. It might take the betta some getting used to. What sponge filter were you considering? You might consider one like this that has media for good bacteria growth: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSCB9GC/ref=psdc_2975472011_t5_B00KZJYC9G
> So another question is how long is their lifespan in a larger heater tank?
In ideal conditions like 5 or 6 years, but you can get up to 10 if you get lucky. They do fine in non-ideal environments and are extremely adaptable animals, it's just that they're more susceptible to diseases in colder waters. Never forget that your personal experiences are anecdotal evidence! Giving your fish an optimal environment will make both of you happier and isn't all that expensive if you spend the time to plan things out.
Congrats on the new fish! Bettas are my favorite fish, they're active and have a lot of personality, and they're very curious. I know you're starting off, but here's some info I hope will help :)
Bettas do best with a heater, between 75-79F / 23-26C, it helps them prevent illness and it keeps them active. I might consider upgrading him to a small tank you can put a heater and maybe a filter in, he'll be very active and fun to watch. I use this little filter for healing tanks if you're looking for a simple little filter.
Also, if you've heard or read anything along the lines of "bettas can live in vases by eating the plant roots" this is a lie - bettas are obligate carnivores, they only eat plants out of desperation when they're starving, and it can't sustain them. Make sure you have betta pellets, or freeze dried brine shrimp or blood worms :)
Make sure he always has access to the surface - bettas are anabantoids, or labyrinth fish, which means they need to breathe air from the surface. They can actually drown if they can't access the air, I've heard of this happening in vases where the plant blocked surface air access.
It's very kind of you to not just let him die! If you get him spiffed up you may be able to find someone who likes fish to take him in, so you don't end up feeling burdened...
but in the meanwhile, there is some basic stuff you can do. If your measurements are correct, then he's probably in a 2 1/2 or 3 gallon aquarium, which while not the best, will certainly suffice. This means the main things you'll need are a filter and a heater.
It would also be nice if you got him some stuff to hide in, so he doesn't stress. They make aquarium decorations, but a clean, well rinsed ceramic coffee mug or unpainted terra cotta planter will do the trick for cheap.
By the way, can you post the name of the water conditioner that you found in the tube? It will help me be able to figure out if it's a dechlorinator or not, which is the most important thing.
Also, does the tank have a lid? Bettas will jump out of water, especially if the water quality is bad.
Anyway, there is plenty of inexpsensive, decent equipment for a tank that size:
I personally happen to like this filter for a tank that size, and it's very easy to install/maintain.
Here's a nice little heater that's worked very well for me. You'd want to maintain his water between 75 and 80 degrees, so it's always a good idea to have a thermometer to make sure the heater is doing its job properly.
From there, maintenance is pretty easy. Feed him just 3 or so of those little food pebbles a day, and once a week give him some of the bloodworms for variety. The main thing is to not overfeed, because they have very small tummies.
Once a week, change out about 25% of his water, and rinse out your filter pads with old aquarium water if they need it. They make little syphons especially for this, because the suction they create helps you vacuum poo out of the substrate.
Go for the 5gal, and add a nice sponge filter! It's cheap and works like a charm.
Here's a good sponge filter, it'll need to be powered by a air pump (like this one). You'll also need some airline tubing, and something to regulate airflow (this is a 10-pack, but you get the idea).
The 0.7 gallon will likely kill him fairly quickly. I wouldn't hold off too long.
You can do a little bit to make what you've got a bit better. Consider daily water changes (using the conditioner and making sure to temperature match the incoming water). Also make sure to keep the cube at as warm and as stable a temperature as possible (fighters prefer 25-27 degrees C). Ultimately though there's not really much you can do with it (even with the extra work it's far from ideal). I'd recommend an upgrade ASAP.
If budget is a problem, you can use a plastic tub (clean, but without any residue from soap, etc. I recommend new tubs or ones that have been used to store clean, dry stuff (books, etc) only) as a tank. Filters can be had for dirt cheap (like this plus a $10 air pump from petsmart, etc). Heaters are an item you probably shouldn't cheap out on (I like these ones); because you really don't want a heater failure. That will give you a basic, livable situation from that you can then work on over time.
*edit: fixed link
Here is the same product for $3.92 plus free shipping on Amazon.
Always research something before buying, that "originally $9.95" is bs, as are all the original prices on that site....a site that was registered 2 weeks ago.
Plus this website is getting posted by some sketchy reddit user that uses multiple accounts to spam his youtube channel all day.
https://www.reddit.com/user/BestBeating
https://www.reddit.com/user/LunacyChillout
https://www.reddit.com/user/FalseLunacy
Hey Phantomsgf! I also have a fluval tank and man those filters are strong! I hunted around for ages and I found a really easy, really cheap solution: buy a pre-filter sponge and pop it onto the filter output. Make sure, of course, that the filter motor is at the lowest setting, but even that is too strong for a betta. You really need the sponge.
If you're having trouble with the filter intake, which are the vertical cuts in the plastic, I guess you could put some mesh over it to, again, slow down the flow. I don't have my betta yet so I'm not sure if this will be a problem.
You might also want to get a thermometer and verify your water's temperature. If it's always about 100 degrees inside your house, even at night, then yes, I'd believe that the water is warm enough for your little guy. But it has to be really really really hot to keep a fish tank at 80 degrees.
As for cycling, you're basically going to have to do a lot of water changes really often. My instinct, which is amateur, says to do 50% a day every day. I also learned from experience that you should let water sit for a while to warm up before putting it in the tank or the temperature drops like crazy.
You can check out products like this that claim to add the bacteria to your tank that eat fish waste. Do they work or is it a myth? I don't know. But for tiny tiny tanks like the fluval you have, you will definitely need a water dropper that can measure a tenth of a millimeter to put this stuff in your tank.
Anyway. Those are my tips. And when you do get a heater, you can fit it where the filter output plastic tube is! So cool!
Oh: look at this leaf. So cute.
Sponge filters are the safest for bettas. I highly recommend this one on amazon :)
An airstone doesn't defuse co2 properly, it's very inefficient, I suggest grabbing a DIY co2 regulator, diffuser, and a bubble counter if you wish on amazon, should cost you twenty-five dollars or so, you'll see a huge difference.
DIY CO2 Aquarium Plant System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJyuyb1E5K3FV
Fluval Ceramic 88g-CO2 Diffuser - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCO35G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ULyuybPW9C6G2
Fluval 88g-CO2 Bubble Counter - 3.1 Ounces https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004GCPM6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DKyuybDD5AXPX
if you want to keep track of parameters get this. https://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI as for filtration i would just get a super small sponge filter to use in place of your airstone like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DT1XXJW/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3171424582&pd_rd_wg=YSSS6&pf_rd_r=SP3Q161R7EV6JCMT1THS&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00DT1XXJW&pd_rd_w=rOp3K&pf_rd_i=mini+aquarium+sponge+filter&pd_rd_r=68WZ029GH257ZD7YAPA0&ie=UTF8&qid=1504099606&sr=3 you can tuck it back on the corner and the shrimp will absolutely love to feed on it. just make sure your tank is cycled before adding any shrimp to it.
I have discovered a great little sponge filter which allows you to put in ceramic beads to host good bacteria. Currently I have one in my 10 gallon with a HOB that I occasionally turn off.
https://www.amazon.com/Corner-Filter-Aquarium-Internal-XY-2008/dp/B00HSCB9GC/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_199_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1RZTNWYQA649ZNXA71YV
The biggest factor that made me buy it was that most of the reviews were from betta owners with plenty of photos to back it up. So if you get that you will also need an air pump and the tubing. I use the recommended Tetra air pumps for 10G.
You will also really want a heater, betta fish prefer roughly 78f degrees. You will also want a substrate, I have noticed my betta fish have preferred sand over gravel. If you put some driftwood in there, it will lower your PH. Certain rocks will increase you water hardness. Lastly, get an API water test kit;
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI?aaxitk=MfNb8FLf9eGj3GLSaNDlFA&pd_rd_i=B000255NCI&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3525547702&pd_rd_wg=8L5hB&pf_rd_r=95NS5B0QQWVRY2D3W4V0&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_w=FvEoY&pf_rd_i=api+water+test+kit&pd_rd_r=fea43153-5be8-4228-a143-71acc8c606de&hsa_cr_id=2853308870301
Stay away from test strips.
In my opinion, sponge filters are the best shrimp tank filters. No possibility of sucking your shrimp in, and the shrimp can feed on the sponge.
I use one of these for my 5 gallon tank.
I bought these that fit on my aquaclears..http://smile.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1425919054&sr=1-3&keywords=fluval+prefilter. They work well and I always catch my shrimp eating off them.
A tank doesn't have to be a glass box. If you're in a pinch, a large food-safe container, like a Rubbermaid tote would work. As this is a goldfish, I would recommend at least 20 gallons of water right now. As it grows, you will need to upgrade.
Goldfish are a coldwater fish, so you can get away with no heater.
Fill the tote with DECHLORINATED water. There are many different brands and types of chemicals that will make tap water safe for fish. Pick one and follow the instructions on the bottle as they all have different dosages. I recommend Seachem's Prime.
You will need a filter to start your biological filtration and to aerate the water. A basic sponge filter will work, if we are looking for a bare bones setup. This needs to be hooked up to an air pump to work.
The most important part is that your "tank" will not be cycled for the first little while. This means that all the fish poop and food waste will be toxic. This is the biggest threat to your fish. Until the bacteria develop to convert the fish waste into nitrate (which is relatively safe), you will need to do basically daily water changes.
If you can get your hands on a test kit for Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate, you can monitor the progress of the cycle. When you no longer read ANY ammonia or nitrite, you can lower your water changes to once a week or two.
Don't get too disheartened if the fish does not make it. The gills look very inflamed and it is likely very stressed. I would recommend buying some aquarium salt and dosing accordingly to prevent infection.
Necessities
api liquid test kit
sponge filter
airline tubing for sponge filter
air pump for sponge filter
thermometer
fluval spec v kit. Comes with filter, decent light that can grow some lowlight plants, idk what else but I hear it's pretty good, I would look around on other sites to find it cheaper
dechlorinator if you don't already have it
heater, I happen to live somewhere where the temperature of my tank floats right in the bettas range, but if this isn't the case for you then you'll need a heater
You'll need something for a lid, can't find anything on amazon but you have a few options: going to a petstore and looking for a 5 gallon lid, going to other websites to look, or making a DIY lid, which can be done with greenhouse panels, or even wood if you don't mind cutting.
Substrate is optional, but if you want it you can either get pool filter sand, which you can find at your local Home Depot or lowes (assuming you're in the US), you'll have to rinse it first but it's really cheap, $8 for 50lb which is more than enough.
I would buy the tank in person at a store or on some site like Craigslist where you can find used tanks for cheap
Also, don't forget to cycle your tank, if you don't know what that is I would do some research on it, it's possibly the most important thing in keeping any aquatic creature
Off the top of my head, will continue to edit to add stuff
Get a [sponge] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_zLL2wbKA1P1B7) like the kind they use for sponge filters or a pre-filter like the one I linked and put it on your filter intake and that'll keep it from being a problem.
[Source] (http://www.aquariumadvice.com/forums/f60/how-to-stop-your-filter-from-sucking-sand-67489.html)
EDIT: I was on mobile and my link was formatted incorrectly lol.
An intake guard is a necessity with shrimp.
The big ones may have a chance to escape, but any shrimplets are sure to get sucked in.
They come in stainless steel mess as well, which look nicer, but the sponge type give shrimp a nice biofilm grazing spot.
Sorry about your shrimp.
Fluval Spec 3
Best tank I've ever used. Built-in 3-stage filter concealed in the back, plus space for a 25w heater in the same compartment the pump is in.
If you get this tank I reccomend two things:
Get a Fluval Pre-filter sponge to place over the pump-output to diffuse the current
Set the pump to the lowest possible flow (It's still pretty strong so that's why you'll need the pre-filter sponge)
I would suggest using Fluval EDGE Pre-Filter Sponge. It slips over the nozzle creating all the turbulence in your tank. I use it on my spec v and have no problems.
This is the [filter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VFF8U4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) its really easy to use and not that expensive. And for my input and outputs i am using these glass lilys
I personally wouldn't risk that. I would go with something like this. I've had horrible luck with things like it but they were recommended on here before for situations like this :)
It definitely looks like fin damage, not fin rot. The damage is more thin and narrow than I would expect to see with fin biting. For now I would recommend putting a sponge over the filter intake (something like this). I have also successfully made sponge intake protectors by sewing sponge together with fishing line... but I'm weird like that.
At the very least this will help you rule out damage from the filter.
This video has some great advice. I used it when I got my DIY system set up. I purchased a kit from amazon for around $15. Totally worth it so far. Citric acid and baking soda lasts two weeks (when I'm doing it correctly) and I've had great growth so far. Be sure to also pick up a bubble counter and diffuser. Baking soda is easily found at any store with groceries, I had to order citric acid online because my Cub foods didn't have any. Overall the system is totally worth it for around $25.
You’re gonna want to get a filter ASAP because his troubles are highly likely due to water quality - impossible to know without parameters. Yeah petsmart will totally test your water for you ! It’s a great deal since I know test kits are pricey !! :)
I’d recommend a sponge filter like this one .
I’d recommend feeding him some daphnia if he still seems to have an appetite and that should hopefully help him poo. The bloat might be a combination with his weak immune system from the rot and velvet, so hopefully getting him warmer and cleaner water will help.
He still looks to have some good weight on him and I’ve seen way sicker fish come back from way worse, so your guy should bounce back.
If you don’t use seachem Prime already I highly highly recommend getting some ! It’ll help neutralize the ammonia left after a water change.
I hope he gets better soon !!! Don’t hesitate if you have any more questions everyone on her is a wonderful help :)
I have been researching the Walstad method for the last few weeks and I can tell you 4 facts about this method and why it may not work with your setup:
1 - Walstad tanks NEED to be HEAVILY planted from the very beginning with SPECIFIC fast growing plant species and SPECIFIC nutrient rich soil (which is where all the bacteria live AKA the filter) in order to achieve the balancing act between the soil, nutrients, bacteria, plants, and fish waste.
2 - Goldfish will DEVOUR and uproot 90% of the aquatic plants needed for the Walstad method. Goldfish are badass and the other 10% of plants that they don't destroy will not be sufficient to plant or balance a Walstad tank.
3 - Goldfish produce much more ammonia and waste than other fish, making them incompatible with the Walstad Method. Even if they chilled out on the plant apocalypse, the waste would throw the tank out of balance by adding more waste than the plants and bacteria can handle. That is why Ms Walstad recommends low bio load fish for her method, AND why goldfish REQUIRE a filter.
My advice? If your on a budget, I would buy a sponge filter and air pump to go with it. They are dirty cheap and they add oxygen to the water at the same time as filtration. 2in1. Plants in your tank are nice, but they won't keep up with the goldfish waste.
Yea I don't like bowls for fish; the shape of bowls can distort a fish's vision, and definitely the spherical/rounded shape makes it more difficult to add a proper filter or heater. A 3.5g bowl like what you have currently might be better as a shrimp tank (shrimp are funny lil guys) and you can put one of these small singular sponge filters https://www.amazon.com/Aquatop-Aquatic-Supplies-Aquarium-CAF-10/dp/B00HYEO8H6 for it as a shrimp tank, but this subreddit really recommends 5+ gallons with proper filter and heater for a betta habitat that a betta can thrive in. I used to keep my bettas in the Petsmart 3.5g TopFin Enchant (starter tank), but I have recently switched to the 5.5g TopFin Essentials tank kit and my bettas are MUCH happier and exploring around the larger tanks with a lot more gusto & liveliness than they had in the previous 3.5g tanks. Also 3.5g I had to do partial water changes twice per week, but now with 5.5g I just do 1 PWC per week. Honestly never going back to tanks below 5g, and recommend you try a 5+ gallon tank too if you truly want to give your future betta a great quality of life.
Also please consider FISHLESS cycling the new larger tank beforehand. http://injaf.org/articles-guides/beginners-guides/the-nitrogen-cycle-and-the-fishless-cycle-getting-your-aquarium-ready-for-fish/
and for more about betta care, our community has many great articles: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/index
Grab some of these: Generic Pre-Filter Sponge / Foam Set For Fluval Edge Aquarium (Pack Of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gXPEzb0ZD57XC
They just go onto the end of your filter intake and prevent any inverts/fry from getting sucked in. Doesn't really effect flow in my experience either. Sorry for your loss.
https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1520309624&sr=1-2&keywords=NANO+TANK+FILTER
THIS IS LITERALLY THE BEST.
You can alter the flow to your liking as well :)
Here’s a solutions- go to a local hardware store or tractor supply or landscape store and try to find an all purpose tub, storage tote, or practically any large container, somewhere around 30-50 gallons. Most of these tubs are fish safe, and are very cheap. For filtration use a large sponge filter and pump which are a very cheap and a effective alternative to normal filters. I wouldn’t worry about heat at the moment as this is meant to be temporary, and goldfish can handle it briefly. I wouldn’t but any decorations or substrate in the tub, just leave it bare. This setup is actually widely used in the goldfish hobby, so it’s a great choice.
Here’s the supplies list on amazon for your convenience, but keep in mind you could also go and look for these products cheaper elsewhere and don’t have to be the exact ones
Sponge filter-
Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D0G6AbC8B1HRS
Pump-
VicTsing 80 GPH (300L/H, 4W) Submersible Water Pump For Pond, Aquarium, Fish Tank Fountain Water Pump Hydroponics with 5.9ft (1.8M) Power Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J2G6Ab01249QW
Air tube-
Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l3G6AbXFY7BEV
Plastic Tub-
Rubbermaid Commercial FG424300BLA Structural Foam Stock Tank, 50 Gallon Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPBLAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U5G6Ab4CHSP90
Cycling biology-
Fluval Biological Enhancer for Aquarium, 8.4-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIZ8Y0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_26G6AbAR5QBRK
I'm very likely to end up overrun by shrimp shortly. Feed em veggies, make sure you have filter intake sponges, and they'll multiply. It's somewhat of a lottery on what you'll get though as far as quality of color. It doesn't help that I started with lower grade shrimp, but the other ones can get crazy expensive.
Between the shrimp and my BN pleco they can easily polish off a chunk of zucchini in a day.
Get yourself a filter intake sponge asap. If that is an aquaclear hang on back filter, they are excellent filters but that intake is the perfect long-fin suction trap.
I'll list off the things you need in order of importance
First is bigger tank! Your bowl isn't cycled anyway so more water volume can only help. I have the same tank that you linked and I like it but I don't really like using filter cartridges so I just changed it out for this stuff
Next, heater. Warm water has been in my experience the biggest difference between a healthy and unhealthy betta. You want one that has an internal thermostat and you can manually set the temp to a number. You'll want a thermometer to go along with it
Filter is important but not as important as heater imo. You'll still need it if you don't want to be doing multiple weekly water changes to keep the quality perfect
Finally are the comfort items: plants, caves etc. If you want plants decide how into it you want to get. Regular gravel would be fine with some plants but if you really want to go for it get something like ecocomplete or fluorite that's designed for plants. I'd recommend at least a couple live plants (Anubias and crypts are easy) because they go crazy for them.
Everything else is mostly to make things easier for you or for decoration.
When you have it set up you'll want to do weekly 20% water changes. A test kit will help you make sure that you're on the right track. If you have any ammonia: water change. If you have any nitrite: water change. If nitrate gets to 20: water change.
Forgot to add some specs.
its a 10 gallon
Filter
50w heater
no co2, diy tabs, 2-13w daylight CFLs in home depot clamp on work lights,
Plants
Cork Screw from a redditor here started with 10 plants and it has spread very well
2 Amazon Swords
a few Mint Charlie, i pulled a ton out since it was going crazy and looked bad,
some Dwarf Hair Grass that is not doing the best i may pull that out and go with micro swords to carpet it.
Stock
1 male beta that we got from a weddign that used them as center pieces
1 common pleco
1 Royal pleco forgot the type but he is pictured
1 bamboo shrimp
3 ghost shrimp
corrected from Fiancee
I have this tank! If you think the current is too strong you can get a pre-filter sponge to slip on output nozzle thing (I totally forgot what it's called) to slow it down. I got mine at Petco for like 3 bucks.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY
Beautiful tank!! If you are going to put a betta there I hear that people say the current is to strong so they recommend this sponge so that your betta doesn't have a hard time swimming!
A sponge pre-filter on your filter intake should solve your problems, unless its broken beyond belief and can't even hold the sponge filter up.
try the azoo mignon hang on the back filter. very small and discreet https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO
For small display tanks, my favorite is to use a small canister filter.
I personally have a Zoomed 511 but there are starting to be more and more options on the market:
Even the smaller Eheim Classics (I think the 2211 or the 2213) would work.
For your water, make sure you use something to make it aquarium safe before adding it into your tank. My favorite is Seachem Prime, and the general consensus is that it's the best there is.
Your little RCS should breed as long as you give them stable water conditions. The babies are also extremely small. One day you'll look over and notice that you have tons of shrimp out of nowhere. It's also a possibility that you have all males or all females (it happens!).
As far as water changes, with that low of a bioload a good schedule would be to change something like 2 gallons once every two weeks.
You're probably not going to find real quantifiable data like that because there are so many factors including growth media and I'm not sure it scales up and down linearly.
I have:
Imgur (left side)
Imgur (middle)
imgur
These are all stable systems that have lasted about two years a piece
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Issues of any cruelty aside- this is fine as a starter/intro and you'll find that you'll likely want to upgrade as things work out- mostly because small systems are a lot harder to take care of.
The thing with goldfish is that they put out a lot of ammonia (so in a small tank ammonia poisoning might be a thing) and the size of the container tends to cap their growth. But I wouldn't sweat the fish thing too much because a few of them might die due to the tank being new (although goldfish are extremely hearty) sketchy source: http://www.firsttankguide.net/newtanksyndrome.php
It's hard to tell you straight away about how many fish etc because this aquarium system looks fresh and not yet cycled- ie. your aquarium probably doesn't have it's fill of microscopic plant life living in it and in the growth bed material you are using. Be aware you'll likely need to treat the new water you add into the tank. (chlorine remover etc) and that adding new water will have a relatively large effect on your tank due to it being compact. sketchy source: http://nippyfish.net/2009/05/27/cycling-a-small-aquarium/
This means that you'll need to watch the amount of food you feed your fish carefully.
100 grams of fish food will generally support about one square meter of plant life.
sketchy source: http://www.doityourself.com/stry/aquaponics-knowing-the-fish-to-plant-ratio
The great thing about what you are doing (cycling, establishing your grow bed as a bio filter) is that if you start a new tank, you'll be able to use this water and material to start out a larger tank faster (largely what you did by getting some of their gravel).
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Nice tips/ways to scale up or automate things to make your life easier:
ie. http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Fish-Feeder-AquaChef-Batteries/dp/B004249KFG
or
Note: most of these links are sketchy- just conveying ideas in an easy to read/digestible format.
First, I would remove the male, leaving only the gravid female. Assuming the eggs are fertile, you'll slowly see them develop over the next few weeks until you can begin to see little crayfish inside each one. I don't think you need to swap out your filter; I prefer covering the intake with a sponge pre-filter (e.g.). I say this because you're going to want to keep your tank clean while minimizing water changes which could lead to you sucking up tiny crayfish.
Once you get to the point where eye spots develop in the eggs (two little black dots), you'll know the eggs are close to hatching. Monitor them closely as you'll want to remove the female shortly after the babies hatch and begin to move around freely. If you don't remove the female, she'll eventually eat the babies.
Once the babies are on their own, it's pretty easy. I feed them like I do adult crayfish, except that I grind the food up a little bit. For example, ground up algae wafers are always welcome. Make sure you provide plenty of hiding places for them to seek shelter when they molt, which they will do very frequently at first.
Good luck and keep us posted!
I'm not 100% sure this will fit, but I've used the fluval edge pre filter sponge on the an Aqueon Quietflow filter for my 10 gallon.
So you have a filter on a 6 gallon tank that's rated for 68 gallons per hour. This is great filtration (I use an eheim that's rates for over 120 gallons that's running on a 5.5 gallon tank here temporarily). However I myself found that i HAD to control the filter flow.
If you live near a PETCO they may have the Fluval sponges on clearance for 70.cents if not less. don't pay more than 2 bucks for one. I found out my Local petco had a a whole bunch of them on clearance for 70 cents so i picked up close to 30. lol
These sponges look nice, and work well. What you do is fit it over the outflow of the filter. if you get a couple you can cut them to your needs and even use one as an internal filter sponge if your filters design will permit it.
Bettas are used to being in still water. you want the water to have a very very gentle flow, it will look almost still. There's a good chance hes fighting the current and cant get up to the top to breathe regularly.
You mentioned your Nitrates at around a 5? i would prep some water (chlorinate it, maybe let it sit over night) and do a 50% water change, do this about twice a week until your filter is balanced and your tank is fully cycled. if you are seeing high nitrate levels you might be on the tail end of that cycle which is good.
As for clamped fins. Once the previous measures have been taken and your beta appears to be regaining health and vigor (give him a week or so) You can do "betta exercise" which is essentially putting a mirror in front of the tank for about 5-10 minutes once or twice a week. don't do it consecutively, so maybe Monday and Friday or something like that. This causes them to flare their fins and fan them out. preventing clamping and helping their muscles that they use for the fins get some strength. Just be sure to watch him and take it away after the 5-10 minute period. if he is in bad shape right now i would just do 5 minutes for a while and see how that works out.
That's about all i can give right now based on the info provided. Make sure the tank is not near a heavy sun window or an air vent.
Hang in there man and good luck. I know what its like to lose pets. Its a major let down and you feel like you failed. I've been there and im sure ill be there again at some point. I lost alot of dwarf shrimp in my early experiences, it will pay off once you figure out the nuances.
Best of luck and feel free to PM me if you need more help.
Fluval Edge PreFilter Sponge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RzHvDbTQG9SRH
One of these bad boys.
I use this, which is a just a discounted version of this.
Visually it's cumbersome, but it works like a charm. If my tank were facing the other direction (I have it so the return nozzle is at the "front") it would be a lot less noticeable.
Despite the space it takes, I feel like Touch has regained part of the tank that he wasn't really enjoying, because the return current was so strong that he was getting a little blown around in there.
He's lovely! His colors are so vibrant. Just a word of warning, you might wanna pick up a prefilter sponge to stick over your filter intake like these.
Bettas are curious little guys and are notorious for tearing their fins on that kind of stuff. Just figured I'd let you know, he's a gorgeous fish!
The tank looks like a fluval spec, right? Get yourself one of these, cut it to size, and stick it over the filter outflow nozzle. It will keep the flow gentle while still allowing your filter to work. You do need the filter on.
I would also suggest increasing the temp. He will get stressed out at lower temperatures, which will lower his immune system. You can also stick an indian almond leaf in there, which releases tannins that are beneficial to healing.
From his previous posts:
alright!
So after many months of planning and figuring out what i waned to do, I finally decide to bite the bullet and get into the planted tank hobby (I kept ranchus before this).
If you guys have any tips or anything advice that would help me out much appreciation!
For right now I am waiting for the drawf hairgrass carpet to grow out, and my piece of wood to become waterlogged so it doesn't float.
I tied down java moss so the wood looks like a tree.
Dont judge me, I know its hella cliche, but i think it would look good.
I am replacing the HOB with a canister filther (Finnex px-360) and using lily glass pipes for my intake and output, so i can achieve that more minimalistic vibe.
For those wondering my CO2 set up, I am using [this] (https://aquaforestaquarium.com/collections/co2-systems/products/archaea-co2-regulator-pro-single-gauge-fits-cga-320), so far its pretty good. It has the adapter so i can connect to a 5lb paint ball co2 canister. I have it connected to a timer, so its pretty hands free system.
The only thing I want to change is my CO2 diffuser, its good for its price point(only 10.99). But I feel like if I spend a little more I could get something better.
If you guys want links to what I have bought:
CO2 regulator
Glass lily pipes (still havent arrived so I dont know if they are good, I have heard mixed reviews about it)
CO2 Indicator
Canister filter
Tank
And all the plants i got from aqua forrest in SF
Before buying a whole new filter setup itself, try one of the sponge covers for a filter intake (I'll add a link in an edit in a second) they're just a couple dollars and they'll help a lot! My guy used to get stuck by the intake force alone. But he doesn't even get drawn to the thing now. I have them on all my filters!
Edit: you can probably find them cheaper but here's what I'm talking about! just put a rubber band right around it to keep it in place.
I highly suggest getting some type of foam/sponge thing to put over that filter intake. I lost a beloved ADF as a result of my oversight. His foot got stuck in one of the slats and he ended up drowning (they need to go to the surface roughly every 30 minutes to get air if I remember correctly). It was horrible taking his body off the intake :(
I'm only saying this because I don't want you to repeat what I went through.
I personally have 2 in a 2.5 gallon tank, but they are the only things living in it. So a question would be, do you plan on having other things such as fish? If you have fish, then probably 2 for 10 gallons. If not, then I could see 5 in a 10 gallon being fine.
And like u/numb3rb0y suggested, I would focus some more hides as well. Overall though, I like the tank set-up :)
I actually use that filter on one of my 10 gallons as well, provides lots of flow for the tank which is good, and good filtration as well. I would maybe suggest changing out the ceramic rings with ehiem media or seachem matrix media, somehting with a bit more surface area, and you would never need to worry about filtration issues. I also recommend putting one of these http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1343104756&sr=8-3&keywords=fluval+prefilter+sponge on the intake of the filter, this will keep the maintenance to a minimum, because it would clog less and the sponge provides additional surface area for beneficial bacteria, i dont have a single tank with out sponge prefilters.
they also make steel mesh prefilters.
check some out here
and here
I used these, same thing I think, worked perfectely on my Sunsun, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K9A15G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I would sanitize tank with 1:10 dilution of the unscented bleach, see sterilizing aquarium for procedure for it. Overnight, with a lot of rinsing and dechlorinating after.
What actually needs to be done:
Expenses involved: water, dechlorinator, test kits (I really don't know how to cycle without them, you could ask at betta Fish subreddit): API ammonia, NO2, NO3, preferably GH/KH test too. Plants are most expensive part, unless you can get them from someone leaving hobby and most of aquarists have an excess of plants, they have to discard. Even fish could be got from rehoming at classifieds or from Free section at Craigslist. Substrate: I'm keeping mine without it, with no rooted plants. Low light tank needs no fertilizer. Air pump make some noise, other than I named could make a lot of noise. Lights: either get for free from someone, buy aquarium lights, or use either short shoplight form hardware store or two desktop lamps with daylight CFL or LED for desktop lamps. Hose (vinyl tubing from Lowes or HD) and bucket, some sponge for glass cleaning for water changes. If substrate, gravel vacuum will be necessary, or a cut off bottle at the end of a hose. Food for fish or shrimp at least 2-3 varieties, different brands, pellets, not flakes. Possibly medications, more chances to avoid them by keeping fish in suitable for it conditions, fed and clean.
It seems that this is all.
Also I recommend getting a 10g since they are probably cheaper and more stable since you have a larger volume of water. And stable water means a higher survival rate of your shrimp.
For example here:
10 Gallon tank for 14,99 http://www.petsmart.com/fish/supplies/aquariums-and-stands/aquariums/grreat-choice-10-gallon-glass-aquarium-2831264.html
A double sponge filter which is good for twice the aquarium volume (cleaner water double sponge is double bacteria). for 3,99
https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1478978662&sr=8-5&keywords=sponge+filter
An air pump for 5,59
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009YJ4N6/ref=pd_sim_199_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CWY7AKPMJBQJY3AXT7X2
25 feet tubing 3.23
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002563MW/ref=pd_sim_199_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=CWY7AKPMJBQJY3AXT7X2
14,49 for a heater
https://www.amazon.com/Submersible-Aquarium-Heater-Freshwater-Saltwater/dp/B017UK0ZUW/ref=sr_1_25?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1478978931&sr=1-25-spons&keywords=10+g+heater&psc=1
That's twice the size for 42,40. You will only need to buy a light and those can be as cheap or expensive as you want but this not required and purely aesthetic again.
I use this in my ten gallon and a supplemental filtration in my 40. The sponges are great, just tug them off and rinse them out without disturbing anything else. A pump and airline is all you should need.
As stated in title, Fishy is the newest member of our household.
My first instinct was to read up on bettas and in doing so, found this subreddit.
I have several doubts, such as:
As per suggestions on this sub, I think buying a bigger tank is my number 1 priority; im currently looking into a Tetra Tank (3 Gallons), this one is favored by my wife, as she finds its aesthetically pleasing (and I agree). However, most people suggest a 5 Gallon tank, so Im also looking into a GloFish Tank, we both dislike the blue led on this model and the black plastic lid it comes with.
In any case, we're also looking to buy the following:
We already have a net (for scooping), drops to dechlorinate water, aquarium salt (for cleaning) and what you see already in the tank.
Please help us give this fish an awesome life!
PS.: We are not in the US, if it even matters.
Azoo Mignon 60
Here you go.
AZOO Mignon Filter 60 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005VEWCMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VRM0Cb8F305VV
I got the kit at Petsmart, but it's widely available. [Here you go!] (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00324X5L2)
It is currently (over)stocked with 6 serpae tetras, 1 zebra danio, and 1 green cory. In a month or so it's going to be broken down when I transition to a larger tank, and will be restocked with one betta and one peppered cory, much more in line with its capacity.
I'm running the stock lights and in-tank filter, though I'm eyeing the Azoo Mignon 60, as supposedly it will fit this tank and free up some space/look better IMHO. Running an airstone off a Whisper pump, too.
Definitely! The tank is a pretty standard rimless glass, which i bought from my LFS. The other parts I purchased online:
The substrate is pool sand, and the dark green moss is actually a marimo moss ball that i took apart and glued to the rock with superglue :)
Many filters are too strong for Bettas, including my Top Fin filter (it was gonna go in the trash anyway - it's crap). That being said, check out the link below and read the top comment. Many filters can be modified to suit your fish. Sponge filters can have extra sponge added to them to reduce suction.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VEWCMO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Given what you're already adding for fertilizer, your limiting factor is very likely CO2. No point in increasing ferts without increasing carbon, you'll probably just get a bunch of algae that'll take advantage of the excess nutrients your plants aren't using; plants only grow as much as their limiting factor allows.
You can actually set up a DIY CO2 system for relatively cheap. You can get a kit for about 13 bucks, you'll just need to supply sugar, yeast, and some bottles (none of the above being that costly, and you can find them at your local store). Excel can only take you so far.
https://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483941512&sr=8-1&keywords=diy+co2
I don't think you have enough plants to warrant CO2, but a DIY CO2 is pretty easy to setup.
So I got baking soda (got it from local grocers), and got citric acid, locally couldn't find it, so I bought it online: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EYFKNL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Got this system: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CUZJF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fish-Tank-Aquarium-CO2-Diffuser-Check-Valve-U-Shape-Glass-Tube-Suction-Cup-Kit/282701446441?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Cheaply made, very happy with it so far.
For the far side, a few options:
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for the middle one: https://www.amazon.com/Jardin-Aquarium-Stone-Sponge-Filter/dp/B008FLWY5U/ref=sr_1_29?ie=UTF8&qid=1467385522&sr=8-29&keywords=sponge+filter+jardin
should be more than enough, get the 99c control valves or a 'hub' to dial in the airflow to each. (cheapest in box stores or walmart)
Does the windowsill not overheat the jar? If you plan on adding the Betta, I'd worry about heat fluctuation in the jar without a heater and being near a window. Also, I'd look into a filter, I used this one for a 1 gallon Jar.
Filter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUFTI6Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think this is something I can actually help with. Yay.
I got the Top Fin 5.5 gallon setup. It came with a 10 gallon filter. This was WAY too much for my betta. I looked into baffles, and compared the prices. I ended up getting this filter as it's only $15 for a non-ugly setup. It has adjustable flow. I set it to the minimum and now my betta is super happy.
As far as the heater goes, does it have adjustable temperature? I got the National Geographic 80 degree one. We keep our apartment at 72 degrees, and his tank stays around 78 degrees.
The lighting goes... I asked previously and I didn't get any responses. I try to keep the window open so the plants can get some natural light. It's been about a month and no plants are dead/dying but time will tell.
Despite all the extensive misconceptions around, Bettas need at least a 2.5 gallon, filtered, and heated tank. Preferable a 5 gallon or more, larger set ups are actually easier to maintain! In small tanks like bowls or "shoebox sized tanks," ammonia builds up too quickly and can harm, and eventually kill your fish. Fish create ammonia when they breathe and poo, and it is toxic to them. I recommend you get at least a 5 gallon tank, a fully submersible heater, and a sponge filter. Sponge filters are cheap and great for biological filtration! To combat ammonia "nitryfying" bacteria will colonize on your filter media and "eat" the icky ammonia turning it nitrites, and then less harmful nitrites! Here's a great blog on fish keeping that should supply you any more information you need!
edit: also make sure you dechlorinate your water and feed your fish high quality pellets, i prefer omega one betta buffet pellets, also male and female bettas should not be kept together unless you have very precise exquisite conditions and aim to breed them
It probably needs a few more, but I want to add the new filter in before I do so. It's going to be a corner sponge (air?) filter. Oh wait, I can just post this.
Best advice is to take your time and buy what will make you happy. You'll only spend more money in the long run if you compromise now. Luckily, not everything needs bought at once. Tank, filter, and heater are necessary purchases now. Lighting and decor can be figured out more slowly.
I can recommend what I'd get in your position.
If you're going to buy a kit, this is a good one. Personally, I like this heater, but they do sell a cheaper version. So, about $100 for the tank, heater, filter, and light.
If you want to buy the parts separately, you can get a 10 gallon tank for $10-$15 or cheaper checking craigslist. You'll also need some kind of lid to cover the tank. You can buy glass ones or some people get a piece of glass or acrylic cut to cover it. Tank + lid: $25-$30
Aquaclears are my favorite filters for my tanks, but you could use a sponge filter. You'd need an air pump for the sponge one. So, $20-$25 for a filter.
Real plants are nice, but not necessary. You can do fine with fake ones, just make sure the edges aren't sharp. If you do want plants, the Spec V light should be plenty for low light plants. If you want to buy the light separately, this or this would be fine. I've had a Nicrew one on my larger tank before and it's enough for low light plants.
Or you could just get a clamp on lamp from the store and a daylight bulb. That whole set up would be about $10.
Until you get a new set up, I would recommend water changes at least once a day, if not more. I would also strongly recommend buying a water testing kit.
something like this:
pump
sponge
air tube
I use a sponge filter in my 5 gal. Seems to be the smallest one on the market and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYEO8H6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wHAqDbP9736K4
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HYEO8H6/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523830934&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=aquatop+cf+10
It's this one! You might be able to get it a bit cheaper at your LFS though.
Indeed! I love your set up haha very creative with the decors placement.
Ohhh and a few things to add for a betta tank:
You should grab a sponge like these ones and slip it on the inflow. It will reduce the current and prevents your fish from getting sucked in.
Does the heater come with the kit? is it submersible?
I bought a 12 pack of the generics and they seem just as good as the Fluval Edge brand.
I can mail you one free if you need it for your tank. Just PM me.
I've kept Bettas on a budget before- there are some things that you really do need, and some things you can do ugly and cheap. The trouble is that you're starting with two and have limited space, a bad combination. I'd suggest you really try hard to rehome at least one, but proceeding on the idea that you're absolutely determined to keep both, I'll lay out the least expensive way to get things done in my experience.
To pick up now:
-Dechlorinater/water conditioner: In your grandma's days, there were fewer additives in water than they are now, and not all of them gas off when left to sit out. If you absolutely can't afford even a tiny container of prime, which can really help in small tank situations because it temporarily neutralizes ammonia- then pick up a cheaper water treatment. Most pet stores carry generic ones, or API is $4 and change on amazon. Can't emphasize enough how much better prime would be though. The smallest bottle should last you for a couple months, so don't worry too much about volume.
-If you can do it, Petco's dollar/gallon sale is the best value you're likely to get on a 10G, as mentioned. Failing that, check your local thrift stores. I think a 10G would be ideal for you if you can make it work- it'll be cheapest and the least amount of maintenance, if you use dividers. Here's a way to make mesh dividers for it yourself from things you can pick up at any craft store, for a couple bucks total (you can also make lids out of the same material). I've made these before and as long as you measure them right, they work fine. If you absolutely can't get or fit a 10g, you bare minimum need about 3g per betta in separate containers or you'll be courting ammonia burns and finrot super quickly. Bowls aren't ideal, but if you're doing a temporary setup they may be easier to find. Be creative if you have to- you want something with horizontal swimming space, rather than vertical (avoid anything taller than it is long), but there are all kinds of odd glass vessels at your average salvation army. A ~3.5 gallon spherical bowl is going to be 12" in diameter. Anything with flat sides, measure and calculate the rough volume in cubic inches, then convert to gallons. Whatever you get, clean it thoroughly. If you use bleach, let it sit out in the sun for a few hours before filling it with water.
-Hides: Cheapest part. In college I had a Betta setup with a half-buried coffee mug and some silk plants from Michaels in it. Grab a couple mugs at the thrift store or throw in your least favorites. You want ceramic not plastic or metal, minimal or no paint if possible. Bury them halfway in the substrate. Craft store silk plants are inexpensive and are fine in a pinch, just boil them first. You want at least some that reach up to the top of the tank, to give them cover at all levels.
-Substrate: Whatever's cheapest is fine. A 5lb bag of imaginarium sand will run you $5 or so at petsmart. If you have a local fish store, they may sell gravel or sand in bulk for cents to the pound, so you could call around and ask. Whatever you use give it a quick rinse before adding it.
-Here's a $10 adjustable amazon heater. If you're doing two 5 gallons, get two 25 watts. A 10 gallon divided, get the 50 watt. A heater goes a long long way to keeping your fish healthy- once you need to start buying medicine your budget is blown. You won't see many non-adjustable ones for much less than this, and they're less reliable since they heat at a constant rate regardless of water temp. Get a cheap glass thermometer with it, they're in any big-box pet store.
To pick up soon:
-Filters and pumps: Sponge filters are the way to go in small betta setups for sure, and they are extremely cheap online. Here's one for $2 for a 10G; here's the one I use in my 7G for $4. Make sure to carefully read the guide on cycling before you put a filter in, because things will get less stable before they get more stable, which is why in your situation I'd be vigilant about water changes (see the caresheet for frequency) and put off the filter til you can afford an API test kit. Because things can spike so so fast, it's really not advisable to run through a fish-in cycle blind in any small tank. You'll pair it with an air pump, this one's $7.
-API master test kit: This is the most expensive thing on the list, which is the only reason it's under later. API also makes test strips, but they're $10 for a pack of 25, wheras the master test kit has far far more uses in it for $20 and is much more accurate. Knowing your water parameters is good any day, but essential once you introduce any kind of filter.
Altogether I think you could get this kind of absolute barebones setup done for around $30 up front and $30 later if you play your cards right, less if you find a home for one fish. It'll still require elbow grease to put together, though.
I had to change the sponge filter to a smaller one that would fit in current filter repository, this one appears to be entirely plastic: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZJYC9G/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A7SIQ2Y2T11UM
My tank currently has frogbit, and duckweed... the growth is crazy on it but keeps the water very clean. Also have moss(s) and some anubas in this tank so it's pretty heavily planted.
The petri dish is a great tip, guessing glass ones are better than plastic so they sink? Any recommendations on places to pick a cheap/decent one from? Would think a nice expensive scientific dish would be a waste of money, and could be better spent on other items.
I have an API master test kit, but it doesnt have GH/KH testing capabilities. thinking i'll get cheap test strips to test my water from the faucet/current levels to know what i need to do. or are the electronic readers better?
Plenty of Oak trees near me, and i'll be sure to use the oak leaves as needed. Love using free things when i can lol. My fiance stocks our house with what seems to be great shrimp food as well, so that'll help the wallet.
My sister and I use sponge filters for our betta fish. They’re pretty good for betta fish as they don’t create much of a flow/current and they don’t need to be fighting it.
We got this one for our bettas:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078HDL21V?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Obviously since we needed two, we had to buy one with three but it’s always good to have extras!
Sponge filters also need some other things like:
Airline tubing:
https://www.petsmart.com/search/?q=Airline+tubing
Valves:
https://www.petsmart.com/fish/filters-and-pumps/air-and-water-pumps/top-fin-2-way-metal-gang-valve-16863.html
Air pumps:
https://www.petsmart.com/fish/filters-and-pumps/air-and-water-pumps/top-fin-aquarium-air-pump-16855.html
Other than all the little things you need to buy assembling them is easy. This video will probably help you with what you need to know although I haven’t watched it myself:
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=yQSI-3rUsIs
Or you could find a way to baffle the flow! This is what works for my bettas but there are other options! Good luck :)
I have a 5 gallon I’m selling with a light, heater, and HOB filter for $60 so definitely put your zip code! But before I upgraded my tank I had a simple sponge filter with air pump from amazon, a Nicrew light, and driftwood from a local store that cost me $10... in total my first set up was... air pump , sponge filter , Nicrew light (that was $14 when I got it...) and the tank $10, lid $10, driftwood $10= about $8”:) or you can do this HOB heater
Oh and for plants in this sub, there’s tons of people that sell good, tons of plants, good priced! I got TONS OF PLANTS for $20-$30 from bquad. But he isn’t the only one
im also looking for a 3gal filter, this was recommended many times when i asked around http://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO
this finnex one is tempting http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Pure-5-Power-Aquarium-Filter/dp/B004NP66M4
If you want the best tank you could get an Ultum 25C. For lights you could use a Chihiros A-series. I use a 25 cm single color on my 5 gallon Fluval Chi and it does a pretty good job lighting things. Red plants turn red. Other plants grow quick. I think you'd be able to grow monte carlo, Marisilea minuta, or S. repens with very few issues. For substrate you could use Miracle Grow Organic Potting Mix capped with gravel. It's cheap and grows plants really well. The Azoo Mignon 60 would work well for the filter. I use it on a 2.5 gallon, but it would work decently on a 5 gallon. With this setup you're looking at $120 before buying plants. This is more than a Spec V. I'd take this over a Spec V though.
Thanks! Here's the filter i use: http://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO
When i first got it, it made a terrible rattling noise at first but after resetting some of the pieces it's been great and is really quiet now. It's also blends in well. I would recommend it!
I have one of these and it is very tiny but powerful. It's about 3"x4"x6"
I got an AZOO Mignon. It works okay. Definitely better than the crap thing it came with. I Velcro'd the light to the back of the tank because it was wicking water out of the tank.
The smaller Tetra filters tend to be on the louder side.
You can use this nano HOB on your 3 gallon, and it will also work when you upgrade to the 5 gallon.
You can read the top review for baffling the output for a 3 gallon betta tank, but the short of it is to change the adjustable flow to it's minimum and baffle with extra sponge.
I had one in my 5-gallon tank at one point, but my betta HATED it. It worked well enough and was super quiet, but he despised it. It's surprisingly powerful for its size, for a 3-gallon you'd have to baffle the output and/or shove some sponge in the bottom to make sure his fins don't get sucked into in input. It takes up a surprising amount of space in the tank, too, and my guy used to swim behind it (there's a small space between the filter and suction cup) and get stuck.
Personally, I think it's more trouble than it's worth. I replaced mine with the Azoo Palm Filter and my betta's been much happier.
You could do this filter. I haven't used it myself, but many people use it on the smaller tanks. It should be perfect for a 3 gallon.
This is azoo filter. It's very good for small tanks and creates little to no current. I don't want my shrimpies to be pushed around. :)
Thanks! I planted dwarf hairgrass, pearlweed, anubias petite nana, Echinodorus Aflame, and some random moss that started growing. I have pretty thick layer of substrate (about 50mm / 2in) that is a mix of Fluval Stratum and some ADA amazonia. The tank set-up is a UNS 4.6 gallon, azoo mignon 60 HOB filter, asta 20 LED, and a paintball tank CO2 setup. I plan to add a small canister filter, but the HOB is doing alright for now.
There are several assorted shrimp in the tank, but Stuart seems to ignore them so far.
links
Light: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07236CXBQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Tank:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXFINHJ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
CO2 Regulator and parts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XW16L4P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009G68LTG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004M49QDC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078KPCLMY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0100UO72G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VEWCMO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
something like this works great. Just google DIY CO2 mixes, get 2 2L pop bottles, and make the mixture. If you get a good one it can last like 2-3 weeks which is pretty much the same as these ones, tho they are a bit of a pain to set up.
C02 Kit
Bubble Counter
Diffuser
You also need funnels to get everything into the soda bottles, a few check valves to prevent backflow. The reaction uses baking soda and citric acid, I got both from the market so thy are food grade.
Here's what i got.
http://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00
Also check this video out from Joey, explains everything you need to know.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JzvfHO31Ug
I bought the fluval mini kit and wasn't happy with it at all. DIY CO2 kits work way better for not a lot more initial cost. Something like this may be better suited to your needs: https://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6
https://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=diy+co2+aquarium&qid=1551222345&s=gateway&sr=8-5
You could grab this diy co2 system
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=asc_df_B008CUZJF65081095/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B008CUZJF6&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167116240456&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5207187190723081390&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061078&hvtargid=pla-305618839130
(Apologies, I don't know how to shorten urls)
And run it with citric acid and baking soda (works better than yeast and doesn't have that yeasty odor)
And also look into EI fert dosing.
You could also grab a few floater plants (not duckweed) to compete with the algae for nutrients, and just remember to scoop out extra ones as they grow. I keep ~5 floaters in my 5 gallon and toss extras in the trash on water change day.
Edit: this will keep you way under $100 even after you buy the kit, an atomizer, ferts and a pH drop checker and should help you combat the algae growth until you can purchase a regulator for pressurized co2.
Yup thats exactly what happeneds.
I learned about it from this video here by Aquarium Co Op
https://youtu.be/VfAJ3ITS3Nw
I bought a DIY Co2 kit from amazon that uses vinegar and baking soda.
https://www.amazon.ca/ZJchao-DIY-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=diy+co2&qid=1571041282&sr=8-3
Hope that helps :)
The prices are different from when I ordered them but here's my exact setup!
Here's the co2 system
This is the bubble counter I have
Here's the diffuser I got but there's cheaper options as well
The nice thing about a small tank is I only need about 3-4 bubbles per second so my diy co2 setup can last almost three weeks which marks the time I do a gravel vac and dose with flourish. I keep the co2 running 24/7 and turn on a bubbler 15 mins before I turn the lights off, and turn the bubbler off 15 minutes before I turn the lights on.
This is what I used for my diy co2 setup:
I bought this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CUZJF6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and followed the direction in this link (http://www.co2supermarket.co.uk/diy-co2-kit-setup-instructions-guide-6.html)
I've been using a cheap diy co2 system. This one. It's ok, you just need to buy citric acid (also on Amazon) and baking soda and maintain it about once a week + or -.
I've been running the 24/7 on my 55 for a couple months now. If you don't plan to do CO2, it will be far too much light (at least in 24/7 mode). I was battling hair algae for the first couple weeks until I started CO2. If you raise it up a bit, you may be OK.
I don't see much of a problem going with a slightly Shorter light. You may have slightly less growth on the sides, but I doubt it will be noticeable beyond what full length would give you.
Edit: my CO2 I currently run: DIY generator with bubble counter/diffuser. You need citric acid (canning area of grocery store) every couple of weeks with some baking soda. My indicator shows I can get plenty at about 1 bubble per second. I will likely upgrade to a pressurized system later, just wanted to test drive CO2 before investing too much money.
Yes of course. I'm using this kit that's 15 bucks on Amazon.
Basic concept is you have baking soda in one bottle and citric acid in another. Once you seal up the system you push some acid into the other bottle and keep doing that until you build up some pressurized CO2. After you open the valve and it starts flowing into your tank, the pressure behind the acid will slowly push more of it as needed into the reaction chamber. This allows for you to turn the system off which is not something you can't do with the yeast/sugar method.
I like this method so far, but it does have drawbacks. Some people struggle to build up enough pressure for ceramic diffusers to function correctly. With those coke bottles I can get up to 2 bar without really fearing that they'll pop, but I wasn't sure if even that would be enough. Instead, I chose to route it into a small pump on the right side there and I get great diffusion. The problem with the first time I did that was I didn't have a bubble counter so I was just using the end of the hose to count. Once I had it at a bubble a second, I attached it to the pump, but the lower pressure in there just slurped up all the CO2 before I noticed. Basically used 2 weeks of reactants in an hour lol. I have a bubble counter, check valve, drop checker, and longer tubing coming on Wednesday. (sorry for this wall of text, I just got started and couldn't stop)
swords can get bigger, but you can also keep them trimmed. I personally like to take up as much volume as I can with plants.
The DIY kit I bought came with detailed instructions and was quite reasonable to set up.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CUZJF6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I don't know exactly how you plan to do your CO2, but this is a very cheap DIY alternative that gives you control over your CO2 output.
I use this one on my nano tank and it works great. Mine is only probably 6 inches deep and this is definitely small enough. I just put a little piece of sponge on the intake so it doesn't suck up baby shrimp.
I thought the little Deep Blue Nano is a little underpowered for you, but maybe not; it's rated for up to 5.5 gallons and only does 16 gallons per hour, so that's not much. If you stock carnivores, that's a higher bioload, I'd add . I do however in both of my 5.5 gallons where I have that filter, have a sponge filter.
Hi there! You've probably already seen the info sheet stickied here, but also this page about the nitrogen cycle was super-helpful for me, personally. A filter is good, but it's much better if you get your tank's cycle all set up and running properly. Right now, the filter is only going to pull out debris mechanically from the water; the nitrogen cycle will help biologically remove toxins from your water column, mainly ammonia from waste and such, that can hurt Finley's quality of life.
I don't have experience with your specific filter, although as a general rule, filters included with tanks aren't always ideal... for a 3.5gal, filters like this one are pretty well-reviewed. I have used it myself on a 5.5gal, although you might want to baffle it a bit so the flow doesn't blow Finley around the tank; a sponge can be used here, or something fancier.
You'll probably want to complete a fish-in cycle to give Finley the best possible environment. As far as filter material (you can see it on the image in that filter I linked), you'll want both mechanical and biological filter media (where you beneficial bacteria colony will live). Some people also use chemical filtration, like carbon inserts, but mechanical/biological is fine for a nano tank.
Fish-in cycling is not preferable, but totally doable. I've done it, you just have to really stay on top of water changes/parameters to make sure Finley's home doesn't get too toxic for him while you're starting your cycle. I swear by Tetra SafeStart+, never had a problem kick-starting a cycle with it, but not everyone has good experiences with "bottled bacteria." Do you have a water-testing kit? This one is the most accurate/popular, I think.
I hope this helps! I was very confused in the beginning, myself, and slowly learned how everything worked with help from this sub. Let us know what else you need help with! :)
People will yell at you for keeping it in a bowl and some people will even recommend they have to have 10g of water to be healthy.
A bowl is not healthy for the fish, but I've kept bettas in 2.5g tanks with no problems. The most important part is getting a filter and a heater, and not over feeding.
You want more lateral space than height, so a cubic or cylindrical tank isn't optimal. A simple 2.5g from Petco is what I use and is fine; it has the foot print of a shoe box. Bettas aren't really vertical swimmers, then are lateral swimmers; they also benefit from more surface area, which a rectangular tank gives.
I run this filter on my 2.5g and haven't had problems with it for a year. It will do better if you clean it every month.
Heaters are tricky; my best advice is to get a digital thermometer like this one and watch the temperature. My 2.5g hasn't dropped below 79 in a couple months, and I'm not running a heater. In the winter I use a heater like this one to keep the temperature steady. When you do start using a heater, you want to watch your temperature closely to make sure you aren't over heating the tank!
I use a desklamp with a Spiral CFL light bulb as lighting; but I also keep live plants. Your lighting completely depends on what you have in the tank. Keeping some plants isn't hard, but it is a balancing act that you have to get used to. You also have to do a little research about the type of plant and it's needs. If you want plants, give me a PM and I'll give you some easy plant recommendations. If you don't want plants, get a 10watt spiral CFL "Daylight" (6300K) lightbulb and put it in a desk lamp that is a couple inches above the water; or just put the tank in a window that gets some light through the day.
Food is simple; a small pinch of flake food or a little bit of freeze dried blood worms every few days is fine. Obviously live food is better, but it is also more work and more expensive.
___
TL:DR
Here is my 2.5g now after I trimmed it and before I topped it off. It has ~20 Black Bar Endlers in it now instead of a Betta. If you want a tank with live plants like that it takes a bit of planning, but isn't too bad.
I'm giving you this list because cost increases with size. A great 2.5g will cost you ~$60-100 upfront, and not much in the long run. A good 10G will cost you ~$100-200 because you will need a stronger filter, larger heater, larger tank, stronger lights. A bowl is the cheap option, and your fish will lose its color, likely lose some fins due to fin rot, and I would be surprised if it lives a year. A tank with a filter and heater will solve all those issues.
I'm a little late but I'm a huge fan of this filter. It's tiny yet powerful with a controllable flow. I have mine on a custom tank that's really small(maybe 2 gallons, more like 1.5) and the water is crystal clear, though I did add my own media.
I'm on mobile, so I couldn't link to all your tank choices/Aqadvisor, but I'll comment anyway, haha.
As far as the tank, I'd go with a five gallon if you are able, something like a Fluval Chi.
If you buy a kit like that, don't expect to use the light or filter. You can get a rimless cube for around $25/$30 without all the extra stuff.
As far as the filter, the ones you linked are fine with fish, but I wouldn't use either with shrimp, it creates too much flow in a small aquarium. Stick with a sponge filter. They are cheap and efficient, and shrimp love to pick at them and eat tiny bits of debris off them.
I just ordered this one:
Jardin Fish Tank 6-Layer Sponge Biochemical Water Corner Filter, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DT1XXJW/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_vgKrub023RYRC
It's going in my Chi.
As for lighting, if you don't have a lot of money you can just put a clamp light on with CFL, just make sure your bulb is 6,500K. If you have the money, get a Finnex Fugeray.
Get your plants established before adding the shrimp. I would recommend cycling for at least two months with plants before adding any shrimp. Make sure your parameters are excellent, and don't forget your GH and KH, very important
As far as mystery snails, I don't have personal experience, so I can't say but I would not put one in my shrimp tank. Ramshorns and MTS are probably better. I have them and I just had to move a few over to another tank bc they were eating all the food.
Ecocomplete is good, but I'd go with the finest grade, as I couldn't get plants to root in the gravelly stuff and shrimp prefer sand anyway. Black blasting sand is a cheap alternative, you just have to wash it a lot initially and then supplement plants with root tabs.
Hope this helps!
Really like the corner sponge filter- they're about five dollars and they work well to develop beneficial bacteria. Recommend getting an air pump that's next size up from what you need. So for example I have a 5.5 and I use a 10 gal pump.
I use a smaller version of this guy
Okay, that's about what I ordered. Uxcell Jardin Fish Tank 6-Layer Sponge Biochemical Water Corner Filter, Black https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00DT1XXJW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_A1M8yb97NN2JV
I miss cheap USA goods. The whisper 10 on Amazon.com is $6USD and it is $16CDN on Amazon.ca.
Anywho thanks!
This one is pretty cool because you can put it in a corner. This one is also good, just a normal sponge filter, kind of on the bigger side as well.
I have an HOB on my sand bottom tank and it's never picked up sand to that extent. Also, if you're close to a PETCO, I get the Fluval prefilters for the CHI, or you can get any foam block from their line, the one pictured is the Foam&Biomax renewal kit for the Fluval edge (roughly $4 and you get the cool biomax Renewal Kit. Link to product picture below. EDIT: forgot to say that you cut a line across the top of the foam block and just stick your outflow pipe down it. Just be gentle and use common sense when doing it, foam will be reusable for months and months :D
Another really good alternative if your fish are really sensitive to the water flow is to get a foam filter. Those things don't get HALF the respect they deserve and they're AMAZING. You will never experience better water clarity. I'm sold for life. Link to product picture below too. Good luck!!
Foam Filter:
http://www.amazon.com/Bacto-surge-Foam-Filter-Large/dp/B00GOFPX9I?ie=UTF8&keywords=Foam%20filter&qid=1462715582&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1
Renewal Kit:
http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Edge-BioMax-Renewal-3-PACK/dp/B00FJK40NE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462715690&sr=8-2&keywords=Fluval+renewal+kit
I use air powered sponge filters so I can adjust flow by adjusting the airflow. Something like this with an inline valve in the airline. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_exnXAbHNCKM46
As far as slowing down an integral or hob filter you can either put some fine foam on the inlet of a hob with something like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LLW1VJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hznXAbDQ8N25Q
Fine sponge does a great job of restricting flow.
Honestly, I keep plants and a sponge filter. I do a 10% water change once a month. Lots of people will say that's not enough or often enough but it works for me.
Here it is on Amazon
Keep it until it's falling apart - same as the sponge. It should take a long time, perhaps years. Just clean them periodically. The only things you need to replace regularly are the optional filter components: carbon every 3-4 weeks and loose filter floss as needed.
I've been running the Aquaclear 30 on a tank for 16 months and the sponges and ceramic are still in great shape. I keep two sponges at the bottom and two bags of ceramic on top. No carbon. I've replaced the prefilter once.
Doubling up on the media is beneficial in a couple ways. First, it's extra room for bacteria to grow. Second, once it's seeded you can take some if you need it for a new, hospital, or QT tank.
For instance: Last month I set up a small QT tank and instantly cycled it by taking some of the Aquaclear 30's media. I used this $5 filter with this $7 air pump plus some airline and the tank was up and running. I replaced what I took from the 30 with fresh media and the next time I need another tank I'll repeat the process. 😀
What kind of filter do you have? You can put a sponge around it or change the filter, I have this one that helps distribute warmth throughout the tank. I think he's probably spending a lot of time next to the heater because as you stated it is on the cooler side, especially at night. Ideally you want a heater that maintains a stable temperature throughout the day. Maybe also consider getting a heater with more watts so the temperature is able to remain more stable? I use this one, it does a great job and is a little more expensive than other heaters but keeps the temperature stable throughout the day. However with your 29 gallon tank you may need a higher wattage.
Good recommendation. Something like this will work as well.
Corner Filter Aquarium Fish Tank Internal Air Driven Filter with Media XY-2008 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSCB9GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Y21czbT0G0ZNV
Just make sure to rinse the media every so often
It’s a Caf-10 I bought locally. I love the gravel compartment for upping the bio filter capacity.
For 5 gallons I love this heater, it stays at 78 degrees which is way better than "10 degrees above your room temperature" or 75 degrees. I got mine at walmart. For the filter I use a small air pump and this sponge filter. It's tiny but has both a sponge and rocky filter media, which you can replace with your own small biomax ceramic filter media. I found it could handle my betta's waste just fine.
​
edit: oops I just realized the heater I mentioned is yours haha. Mine works really well! I really haven't found a better one that's appropriate for such a small tank.
I have that little cave decor you see in the picture, and a floating betta log. Both feel smooth to the touch (inside and outside). I took out my betta leaf as I have seen some reports of it cutting up their betta’s tail. I also took a stiff fabric plant out as well as a plastic log I had in there. The log felt mainly smooth, but on the inside there were some tougher areas so I took it out to be the on the safe side.
I have a sponge filter with an airflow control valve connected to a bleed valve and check valve.
my filter
I was always a HOB person myself until the one on my 30g and the one on my 5g decided to start leaking on the floor within a week of each other 😂 Since then I’ve stuck with internal filtration. Powerhead driven sponge filter on the 30g plus a second small internal filter for added circulation and a source of seeded filter media for hospital or new tanks; in my 5g I had a large sponge filter for a while, then I tried an under gravel filter and hated it, so I switched to a tiny combo [sponge / “box” filter] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HYEO8H6?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title) that I love; air powered corner box filter in the 10g plus a sponge that I stuck an air stone inside of to make more surface area for the beneficial bacteria; finally I have a Fluval Spec III at work which comes with built in filtration that is essentially a giant sponge filter but with a small pump that pulls the water through it.
Sorry that was way more info than you wanted, but I figured if you were thinking of switching I’d give you some options 😂
Just a few things I noticed and would love to help with! I have this same aquarium.
The tank looks gorgeous by the way! He looks like a happy little guy. :)
I use a pre sponge filter. You can find them on amazon. I happened to purchase these.
I’d move them back to the tank ASAP and pick up a filter sponge for your filter intake. I use the “fluval edge” prefilters on my aquaclear HOB filters with no issues. LTWHOME Pre-Filter Sponge/Foam Set For Fluval Edge Aquarium (Pack Of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FMJACbBKN82TE
Fluval EDGE Pre-Filter Sponge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gaKPybNKN3XM0
Or in bulk
Generic Pre-Filter Sponge / Foam Set For Fluval Edge Aquarium (Pack Of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AaKPyb5NGTFHQ
The Tank
https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Fish-Aquarium-Starter-Gallon/dp/B01LCZMHPM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536884869&sr=8-1&keywords=aqueon+10+gallon
For the gravel I het a $5 discount card since I bought some cat toys, so I got that for $7 from Petco. I would recommend the fluval shrimp stratum though
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Plant-Shrimp-Stratum-4-4-Pound/dp/B00JGQIY48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536884958&sr=8-1&keywords=fluval+shrimp+stratum
Then I got this set of marimo balls
https://www.amazon.com/Marimo-Moss-Ball-Variety-Pack/dp/B00I323A0E/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1536884997&sr=1-4&keywords=marimo+balls
Got some pre-filter inlet covers
https://www.amazon.com/LTWHOME-Pre-Filter-Sponge-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536885057&sr=8-1&keywords=fluval+prefilter+sponge
API Freshwater test kit for $20 from amazon
API GH KH test kit for $8 from amazon
a basic TDS electric meter for $10 from ebay
I got salty shrimp 100 grams for about $20 off ebay
Then I bought a piece of driftwood from the Pet store for $10
I got three java moss balls from the pet store for $6 each
Bought an Anubias plant from the pet store for I believe it was $12
I got 3 amano shrimp and 5 CRS from the pet store, prices vary so check your own pet store.
It has a hole that you can see right through it. I might not be the right dimensions, but it looks like this.
I have the tetra 3i filter. I couldn't get any pictures of the tube, but it has a thin plastic cross covering the opening... But it seems that could be easy for the shrimp to get suck in through those gaps.
Are you suggesting something like this? I'm looking around on Amazon for a similar one that would fit the dimensions. Any recommendations are more than welcome!!
I use this sponge filter with a Wal-Mart air pump and tubing. For the heater I use this Guy. I have a 5 gallon as well, and so far, so good!
Amazon?
I got an intake with a surface skinner on it, once it’s adjusted properly it works great and raises and lowers with the water level automatically. It has been really effective with keeping the top of the water protein free thus allowing more o2 exchange.
I’m interested in this German oxydator though, do tell!
JARDLI Glass Lily Pipe Inflow with Surface Skimmer for Aquarium Planted Tank (13mm for 12/16mm (1/2'') tubing) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ2DV9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5aM6Bb5V9FRHA
Love your tank btw!
Got from Amazon. I'm liking the size for the shallow tank.
JARDLI Glass Lily Pipe Inflow with Surface Skimmer for Aquarium Planted Tank (13mm for 12/16mm (1/2'' i.d.) tubing) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ2DV9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vnWZCb1GWMSHG
I looked for some time and this was the smallest. It's tight as you can see but fits in the back corner. It sticks out pretty far from the glass too btw.
https://www.amazon.com/JARDLI-Surface-Skimmer-Aquarium-Planted/dp/B01LZ2DV9W/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=8Q5L7C14LGZ2&keywords=jardli%2Bskimmer&qid=1554577034&s=gateway&sprefix=jardli&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
The Amazon link has dimensions. I also use the Jardli diffuser and outflow. From what I can tell so far quality is good for the price. I couldnt get rid of scum without it unless I took the outflow out of the water. Surface is spotless now!
Having trouble locating good places to buy tanks online but a quality local fish store will probably be able to help you out on that front. Something like this would look great I think!
Then grab a simple sponge filter like this and a small air pump to run it.
Shrimp really like plants, so maybe some sand, a nice piece of drift wood, and a few plants to make it all green!
I recommend a sponge filter. (That's what I switched to after discovering a hang on back filter created too much flow for my betta.)
Here is a link to more information on how these work: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z52ZsA2IxP4
You will need an air pump (I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Whisper-Easy-Aquariums-Non-UL/dp/B0009YF4FI), filter (https://www.amazon.com/Aquaneat-Aquarium-Sponge-Filter-Breeding/dp/B078HDL21V/, but there are many other options around), and tubing. I also recommend getting a check valve & throttling valve. These should be like $1 each at your local fish store.
The pump goes outside on your counter/table. They are not that big.
They are a lot less smaller than a HOB, and more gentle for a betta. A 10gal is big enough for a sponge filter.
There are a bunch of tutorials on YT. All things considered, it will be less expensive than a Fluval too. If you, or a relative has any free shipping service like Amazon Prime, for example, you're looking at a lot of savings.
https://youtu.be/BS7gIHUkhuo
https://www.amazon.com/hz/reviews-render/mobile-media-feed/B078HDL21V/ref=cm_cr_dp_mb_crsl_img_5?ie=UTF8&physicalId=71UkXwFIKCL&imageExtension=jpg&reviewId=R3QRKV8BBGIES5
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078HDL21V/ref=cm_cr_othr_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8#cm_cr_carousel_images_section
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatop-Aquarium-Air-Pump-AP50/dp/B005FZYIG2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=aquatop+ap50&qid=1570679927&sr=8-1
these work good for my tanks that need low circulation and good clean water. i use them for quarantine and hatcheries.
I can ship you one of these small sponge filters
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078HDL21V/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
for $4 + shipping. The extra dollar is to cover paypal costs and the bubble wrap mailer.
I keep extras of these cycled in my shrimp tanks for people to buy with shrimp.
I have a much larger sponge available for $8 but you've only got a 2.5G so I think this works better.
Setup
Item| Description
---|---
Tank | 55 Gallon
Filter|[Marineland Penguin 350] (http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Penguin-Power-Filter-70-Gallon/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1406908824&sr=1-1&keywords=bio-wheel+350&dpPl=1)
Filter | Marineland Penguin 150 filled with Biomax
Heater| Aqueon 200w heater
Substrate | Tahitian Moon Sand
Substrate| CaribSea Eco Complete
Lighting|Marineland Single Bright
I wish I went with a better lighting system as it's very weak, I can only grow low light, easy going plants. Currently looking for something better. I also want to upgrade to a [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Cascade%C2%AE-Canister-Filter-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B0002DJ9NY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406911455&sr=8-1&keywords=pennplax+canister+filter&dpPl=1). canister filter.
I have in there some platties, had 4 red and 4 yellow but some died and some spawned, I don't know how much platties I have. I also have 2 green cory catfish, and 2 zebra danios (I know I'm supposed to have more, but when I first started out I had about 6 of each with some guppies. Had a bad ich attack and lost everyone except the two corys and two danios)
http://imgur.com/a/Pbs4X
It's not alot of water, maybe 30 to 40 gallons max? , perhaps find a cheap cannister filter online.
That's likely most hassle free for indoors.
https://www.amazon.com/Cascade-CCF3UL-Canister-Filter-Aquariums/dp/B0002DJ9NY
Look at some of those, there has to be a cheap and cheerful option available out there. First figure out how much water the planter will hold and buy a filter with pump that will turn the water 2 to 3 times an hour if you plan to add fish.
If not that maybe build an l-shaped bog style filter in a planter to fit in the corner behind it.
In a 55 gallon its best to go with 3 species at 1m/4f ratios. If you're a novice you should go with the beginner Mbunas (yellow labs, rusties, etc). Definitely do your research first and hopefully you have knowledgeable staff at your LFS to help you with your purchases. Pound for pound Mbuna are the most aggressive cichlids and its an absolute must to keep them in groups. For, a fully stocked 55 gallon Mbuna tank, I would recommend an Aquaclear 110 and a medium sized canister filter (Penn-Plax Cascade is a good economical choice http://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Cascade-Canister-Filter/dp/B0002DJ9NY ) ...and rocks, lots and lots of rocks.
Good luck!
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-Biomax-Bio-Rings-ounces/dp/B000HHSG5M/ref=sr_1_18?crid=2WNF2ZJX4HU97&keywords=filter+media+aquarium&qid=1564853679&s=gateway&sprefix=filter+media+a%2Caps%2C124&sr=8-18
This is one of the product. If you to your amazon wishlist, I could buy it for you.
Okay so with that being said them you should take out the charcoal and save that for later if you need it, not something you need for daily use especially if you want to go planted since it will counter act with any ferts to my knowledge. As for substrate you honestly have so many choices but ada would be good if you want to go planted or to even go with no filter. As for the filter if your going to run one you need to get a biological filter. I use these
You also would need a sponge as a mechanical filtration but if your putting one over the intake that works as well. Sorry if Im either telling you stuff you already know or I'm just repeating things.
Cheap crappy heater behind the rocks, plus a tom rapids mini canister filter
The light is a finnex ray 2
You should be fine. I run a "mini" one on my 10 with a fancy betta, no issues. My 70 on a 29 though, tears for days.
Edit: If you're worried about the intake I highly suggest these sponges. They fully enclose the whole intake instead of just the sides leaving you with an open bottom.
If you are talking about the Biomax rings they are not meant to collect waste. They are a highly porous and tortuous material with a huge effective surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow on. That's the bacteria that will break down ammonia and nitrites. This is called biological filtration. Water has to flow through it for it to be effective.
Sponge and fibre will physically block debris but will not provide the same amount of surface area for bacteria to attach to. This is mechanical filtration.
Activated carbon is charged and adsorbs microscopic debris and other charge specific molecules until it is saturated at which point it will have to be discarded. Not very effective. This is called chemical filtration.
I personally stock my filters with bio-media only and attach a pre-filter sponge like this to the intake for mechanical filtration.
Your best bet would to be use something like this sponge filter as it not only will prevent inadvertent fish chumming, but will also act as a second media for beneficial bacteria to grow.
If that is either too much of an eyesore or it inhibits your flow too much, use a mesh screen like this to prevent Khuli sushi.
Also, sorry for your loss, Khulis are sweeties! Try Zebra Botia (Loaches) as well, they're great for small tanks and click extremely loudly when excited!
i have anacharis in mine. fyi, you may also want to baffle the filter's output. it depends on the bettas fins though. my flow was pretty low but Felix kept swimming in it and got a little split in his tail. so i got a sponge like this i cut the excess off (so it doesn't stick out so much) and rubber banded it to the outflow.
You should be fine removing the Whisper. Another suggestion would be to put a foam prefilter over the intake. I believe this one will fit: http://www.amazon.com/Hagen-A1387-Fluval-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY
Buy a small filter sponge. These ones are easy to mod. In some areas they've been repackaged with the Fluval branding. You should be able to get them or something similar at any LFS. Cut a small hole and secure it over the filter out take, or get one that already comes that way. Should help reduce flow and maybe give him some respite. It will also provide a little bio filtration.
Definitely should check parameters too. His scales and eye look pretty unhappy. It's hard to tell but he may be harboring a bacterial infection. If you test high in nutrients that could corroborate that hypothesis. Water changes never hurt. 10% every day will only help secure ideal conditions, and isn't that demanding in a 5g. Might even want to do a little aquarium salt to help boost gills and slime coat.
And I would get those plastic plants out of there. Bettas like to lounge on stuff, and if hes trying to lounge on those and the flow is knocking him around, that could be part of the problem. Silk or live plants will be much more gentle.
I got mine at Petsmart. If it's the same one I got (and it looks like it is) it's this.
I believe this sponge would fit perfectly over the outflow -
Fluval EDGE Pre-Filter Sponge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RCXJDbQ0RYS2X
I use it in two of my tanks with outlets like this and it works perfectly to diffuse the flow!
Its available at most petco/petsmarts too
I just bought one at my LFS yesterday, (this is the one I got, you could probably go generic and be fine. I'm sure you could go to almost any store that sells and find some.
The live plant is helping with your tank's ammonia especially when combined with the constant water changes. How often are you changing the water in there and how much? Water changes during a cycle will set it back and make it take longer (which is why fish-in cycling can take longer depending on how it is done). If you are dosing Prime, you don't need to change the water as much since Prime converts ammonia into the less toxic ammonium. For fish-in cycling, it is recommended to do two 50% water changes each week.
As long as the betta looks like it is thriving (growing, nice color, and bubble nests are good signs), I wouldn't worry too much. Just continue adding Prime (and Stability if you want) and doing regular (but less) water changes.
Prime states that you can dose up to 5x the normal dose in emergency situations. So as long as you're close to the suggested dose, you are fine.
EDIT: Regarding your question about adding biofilter stuff, if your filter has room and doesn't already have it (I can't find much on that filter), it would be helpful to add something like Fluval Biomax. There are many other products that help with providing a surface area for bacteria to grow. I just have experience with the Biomax because I have Fluval AquaClear filters. Another option is wrapping a "sponge" around your filter's intake (assuming there isn't already one inside). I don't know what fits your specific filter, but here is an example of one (I use a knock-off that was $5 for 6 and works well):
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY
Stick one of these bad boys over the output nozzle.
Sorry, that's just a huge pet peeve of mine because it is a strategy typically used by big box stores like Petco and Petsmart to intentionally evade local invasive species laws. (E.g. the Petco where I live sells Procambarus alleni as "blue lobsters" because they are trying to get around the fact that the entire family Cambaridae is illegal to own in Washington state… something I found out AFTER I got my as-it-turns-out-illegal-to-own crayfish.) Lobsters are the family Nephropidae, which are only marine.
I think you should buy at least a 10 gallon (20 gallon long is MUCH better) + an Aquaclear 20 or 30 (depending on what size tank you get) + a pre filter sponge like this: http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1413430808&sr=8-2&keywords=prefilter+sponge
That's what I do on my RCS tank and my baby RCS are much smaller than your crayfish and they have no problems, plus that filtration is adequate.
I know it seems big given your cray's current size, but as an adult they will get much bigger. My bud was 10 inches (counting claws) when he died.
And then, again, the API Freshwater Master Test kit… and please do look up information about the nitrogen cycle! /r/aquariums has good info in their sidebar.
that would work, but this is probably better: https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY
It's what I use.
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY
I use this kind of thing. This particular sponge I know fits the filters built in to MiniBow 5 tanks, the Tetra Whisper 3i and the Aquaclear 20
you can buy prefilter sponges for 5 bucks on amazon. they're round and black so they don't stick out as much as nylon socks. theyre cheaper if you buy them in bulk
I agree that you should also give back the neons. Too small of a tank. Look into getting a snail or shrimp to go with your Betta instead.
I have (this)[http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY] over where the water comes out on a tank similar to yours. If you can get it to stay on the outflow, the water will be diffused calmly with no current into the tank without having to turn off the pump.
Good luck.
Over filtering is better than under. You'll need to baffle the flow, especially for a betta. A sponge cap on the outflow works well and diy fixes can be easily found online.
A lot of us use the fluval pre filter sponge Just stick it on the end of the outflow, tying it on if necessary.
buy this
I bought one of these and it worked really well.
http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY
This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LL32RY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Plants become deficient pretty quickly. You can visibly see their leaves melting or changing color. Depending on the plants you have, depends on how well they can show you. I have Hygrophila, which are notorious for being resource hogs. If anything indicates a deficiency in the tank, it would be them. They go from bright green to black, which is a really good visual indicator.
My tank is not heavily planted, so the carbon injections aren't necessary for the plants to live, but it just helps them to grow and propagate across the tank. I think a lot of people start off buying a lot of plants, which requires them to inject everything into the tank at the start. There is so much plant surface area competing for resources. I intentionally started off sparse to make this a long term thing and just to watch which plants will slowly take over the tank over time.
The shrimp I have range for 1 inch to 2.5 inches. The females are the one over 2 inches. The syphon I use is made for 5 gallon and less tanks. So the force of the siphon really isn't enough to suck them up and they are smart enough to avoid it. I purposely chose to get the smallest syphon so I can make sure I have enough time to get to the whole tank before I collect the 5 gallons. The appropriate sized syphon probably wouldn't have gave me enough time to work around the plants and driftwood in my tank before it filled up the 5 gallon bucket.
The shrimp actually help maintain the tank. They eat the algae that grows on the plants and wood. When you first start a tank, colonies of bacteria will grow randomly in the tank and they will eat that too. The females, being larger and carrying around eggs, eat a lot. The tank was built around a Betta and the females are like the same size the betta minus the Betta's fins. If you stick to community fish, the shrimp will go pretty undisturbed. They really live completely separate lives from the rest of the tank (betta, school of harlequin rasboras, and a panda garra).
I use a finnex px-360.
https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-PX-360-Compact-Canister-Aquarium/dp/B002VFF8U4
It was the smallest canister filter I could find. I tried to get a small canister to get the lowest water current possible while still circulating the water through the whole tank. Captive bred Betta's are so far from their original forms that they suck so much at swimming. This is why I went with something that would produce a low current. This filer comes with a thin cartridge of carbon media. I replaced that with a bag or Purigen. That small cartridge seemed like it would have to be replaced every other month and cleaned every week. The bag of Purigen last for 6 months and was worth buying only having to worry about it twice a year.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01B1Q9DUY/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1540125239&sr=1
Planted tanks look as beautiful as saltwater tanks and require way less attention. From my experience at least. Everyone that visits my place always asks if my tank is a saltwater tank because all of the colors are so vibrant, yet natural.
Lights: One cheap, one expensive. I have the nicrew, it does fine for my 10g (in my post history)
NICREW DeluxeLED Aquarium Light, Full Spectrum LED Light for Planted Tanks, 20 to 24-inch, 18-Watt, 1200 LM, 7500K https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071LJKNWS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_xqXQAb6EVJ4YC
Finnex Planted+ 24/7 Fully Automated Aquarium LED, Controller, 20 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U0HMWHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dsXQAbP4XB4J
Filter: One cheap option, one more expensive. You could probably downgrade the first filter for less gph (under 100) is probably better.
Marineland Penguin 200, Power Filter, 30 to 50-Gallon, 200 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IODZG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XsXQAb35KHD23
Finnex PX-360 Compact Canister Aquarium Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002VFF8U4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UuXQAbQFZ3NTZ
Heater: Get two of these so you can heat up water for your water changes.
Aqueon Adjustable Submersible Aquarium Heater, 50W https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000YAJJZS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZvXQAbGD1J83W
I put sponge pre-filters on mine.
https://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1465528898&sr=8-2&keywords=sponge+pre+filter
Pantyhose works too but the sponge is added filtration.
ive never had a problem with neons getting sucked in the filter, but if youre worried you could put a sponge over it like this.
I have one in my tank for when random cory babies survive. it also helps big chunks of debris like broken plants from being sucked into the filter and clogging it!
Put a sponge over the intake. You can buy sponges specifically made for this purpose, or use pantyhose.
http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398461060&sr=8-2&keywords=intake+sponge
Not sure what type of filter you have but maybe try a sponge filter? It helps prevent the babies from being sucked up: http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G
Most local fish stores will have pre-cut intake sponges that will fit any standard HOB filter. Like an aquaclear 20 or whatever. I actually bought filter sponge from my local store, cut it into a strip about 4 inches long, folded it in half and sewed the edges (leaving the opposite end of the fold un-sewn). Simply slide onto the intake.
or buy something like this
I have the same one! My dude also hates it. I got it in a Aqueon basic 10 kit.
I made a baffle out of a plastic bottle and put it over the outflow. It made the flow not fully reach the front of the tank, but it didn't seem like enough to really slow it down.
After that, I also bought one of these fluval sponge things and put it on the outside of the intake tube. I also put this aquarium filter fiber on the inside of the intake tube and inside where the filter cartridge is. If you put too much stuff in the intake tube, the filter will be really loud and suck up some of the fiber. I had to really pack it in. The intake flow is SO STRONG that it will suck up gravel (I had the genius idea of putting gravel on top of the fiber to stop the fiber from getting sucked up- did not work)
After all this, the filter is weaker and slower, but still pretty strong. I wish I would have just bought something else in the first place, but its so far working out. I'm just sad that every bubble nest my little dude tries to make is being instantly destroyed. He's still trying though!
Sorry! [Here is an example] (http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G) but I picked up some cheap one at the pet store that didn't really fit and just used some sewing thread to tighten it up so it would fit my filter properly. I think it was $3 for a 2 pack maybe?
You would clean it like your normal bio filter--when you're doing a water change, rinse it out in the discarded tank water bucket to get rid of excess gunk. Don't rinse it in tap water or wash it or else you'll kill your beneficial bacteria.
I have some dwarf lettuce floating plants in my 5 gallon and they just sway gently but aren't pushed all over the place. The only downside to this is that you may get a biofilm on the surface of your water which is harmless but kind of gross looking (oil slick). You can add a little air stone if you like--that should be enough to agitate the top of the water and not bother your fish.
If you need a quick-quick fix, just get some filter floss and rubber band it securely around the intake--that works in the same way but I hate having rubber bands in the tank so I see it as a temporary fix. Hope this helps!
There is really no impact. In fact is catches a lot of the debris. You just have to rinse it out once in a while.
http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G
Definitely. Which means good water parameters. They're highly sensitive to ammonia so be on top of testing your water and water changes.
I also learned the hard way that my filter allows little frog legs and bodies to be sucked in. For example, if you have the standard HOB filter, the tube may cause problems so cover it with prefilters.
Put foam over the intake, aka http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K9A15G/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Or a very fine mesh pantyhose etc..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004K9A15G/ref=cm_cr_arp_mb_bdcrb_top?ie=UTF8
You can probably find them pretty easily. I ordered this pack on amazon which comes with three since I had more than one tank, but I'm sure anything similar to that will work fine. It's just basically a little cylinder shapes sponge sleeve that you stick over the end that sucks up the water.
Just went through my box of fish goods. Probably the best things (which I coincidentally got off Amazon) are random airline accessories. One-way valves, random connectors, suction cups, and a pack of check valves have all proven useful. It's great having extra pieces for whenever you need one. I built a drip acclimation line that I saw for sale somewhere with these parts, I have two DIY sponge + K1 filters that I needed one-way valves for to regulate the airflow, etc. Just so many uses :)
Some other good purchases:
Seachem Purigen
Bubble Counter - for DIY CO2 or DIY in-tank brine shrimp hatchery
Yeast - for DIY CO2
Metal Faucet Adapter - for gravel vacuum that attaches to your sink
Pre-filter Sponge Pack
Well, at a certain size people start recommending a sump/refugium. A sump of 20 gallons is a so much more capacity for filtration than a HOB could ever be. But they are more difficult to setup.
If I were going to use a HOB for a tank that large, I might just use two of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FUW/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_m8Ovxb3MWMDGV
"But why?" you might ask. Two reasons. First it meets the capacity requirements in excess of 40 gallons and better circulates the tank. Second it provides redundancy in case one filter goes down. Another filter you might look at is sponge filters for power outages. Can be used on a battery operated pump and simple to use
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XIN78/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_YaPvxbRNYX7J2
You might go the route of canister filter.
This actually doesn't meet the requirements of circulating your total volume ten times in an hour, so be aware of that. A 100 gallon tank might use two of these. Again redundancy is a beautiful thing.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015JMQRNC/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_QdPvxbAH4274M
this is what i'm using in all my tanks. if that's too big, this is a good alternative.
NEVER buy this. the connection for the air tube is too big and is nearly impossible to get a tube on.
you can put a intake filter sponge on it, or you can also put a entire sponge filter like this on the intake instead. they sell adapters to do this
https://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78/
Would something like this work?
https://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1522978299&sr=8-3&keywords=sponge+filter+fish+tank
Petco currently has a $1 per gallon sale up to 29 gallons, I believe. If you wanted a bigger aquarium now'd be a good time to get a bigger aquarium. Your choice of fish is very limited with a 5 gallon. You can either get a betta or some shrimps.
Take your time and do research. No need to rush. It's always better to do your research and go to a pet store knowing what you want rather than impulsively buying anything. Most pet store staff also generally don't know much more than the average person about fish so take anything they say with a grain of salt.
EDIT: You need an airpump, not an air stone for the sponge filter! That's a really big mistake I made.
These are what I ordered for my 20 gallon aquarium, the size of the air pump is what matters so get a 10 gallon air pump for your 5 gallon aquarium unless you decide to upgrade. I'm also on a budget so these seem to be the best items for those on a budget
Sponge filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051XIN78/ref=psdcmw_2975472011_t2_B005VAFGKI
Air pump:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I35X82DPLWBEQ2&colid=74EPT83Y85GU&th=1&psc=1
Air tubing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002563MW/ref=pd_aw_fbt_199_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C7MX7DQQ39GFPW8XDMM3
Hmm, I'm pretty sure I have this sponge running on the whisper 10 that is good enough for the 10 gallon tank on it's own. This is the one on the whisper 40 but it takes up a ton of space and is big enough for a 40 gallon lol.
Aqadvisor is good for estimating bioload levels, but it's not so great at getting the minimum tank size for each species. Tanks can be overstocked in two ways, bioload or space. I use seriouslyfish.com for the space part and Aqadvisor for the bioload part
Use a sponge filter element, like this https://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78 on the filter intake, then bag up the biomedia in delicates washing bags https://www.amazon.com/DOZZZ-Delicate-Stocking-Underwear-Lingerie/dp/B016MB0KW8/ref=pd_day0_201_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B016MB0KW8&pd_rd_r=K5X2TZZ1PAC07536K45J&pd_rd_w=vinoL&pd_rd_wg=XkJlb&psc=1&refRID=K5X2TZZ1PAC07536K45J
May as well leave the bioplate there if it doesn't get in the way of the bio media.
Yeah we bought a heater yesterday. If we were to purchase a filter like this would we be able to just hook up our current airstone pump to it and have it work? Or would we need to purchase something different? Thanks for your help!
I really like the bactosurge sponges because they are very fine and tend to polish the water. Problem is they are meant for like 30g and are pretty big. :/. Honestly If you are doing chili rasboras and nano fish, I would get one of those dual-ones that sit on the side of the glass (This style https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI/). This could easily support a 20gal tank.
Not sure if we are allowed to link to Amazon, but I have two of these in my tank and I am liking them a lot.
Never used one before but something like this might work for you.
Sponge filter
Basically runs off an air pump and the sponge collects debris. It'll need cleaning but a combo unit like this sounds about what you're after.
There's also this unit but it's designed for larger tanks.
If you want some more interesting creatures in your tank I'd suggest ghost shrimp. Add them first and then introduce the beta. If he's already established territory he'll be more likely to defend it.
If you do run into problems they cost less than 50 cents per shrimp.
The best thing about sponge filters is that they are dirt cheap! If you already have a filter for that tank and are adding it just for the extra filtration and added circulation, and if you have an airpump rated for a ~20G, this XY-2822 would work perfectly.
I barely started using flourish and excel so I can't attest to their usefulness. I have some bb algae and my plants weren't doing so well. Flourish should help, i've heard/read some great things about it seachem(flourish manufacture) also creates specific liquid nutrients like flourish iron, flourish magnesium, etc.
If I were you i'd use regular flourish(it's your choice if you also want to use excel) and see if your plants makes a comeback after a month.
Also if you're interested in the wasteland method this video gives a detailed explanation how to start it.
The first link is the just a little larger than the second, They both use an air pump. And I forgot to say I use saltyshrimp gh and kh as the remineralizer. Most tap water is fine for ghost or red cherry shrimp though.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005VAFGKI/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1505891587&sr=8-5&keywords=sponge%2Bfilter&dpPl=1&dpID=41UvHBkfssL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0056XVF82/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505891637&sr=8-3&keywords=sponge+filter&dpPl=1&dpID=41dqWo%2BtSBL&ref=plSrch
I use this one
It's been really reliable so far. You can find different makes and models of similarly styled ones, but this specific brand is the only one I can vouch for.
Sounds good, thanks for the advice! Yeah, my betta has been a total stud through the Ick infection, the drastic increase in temperature and now the ammonia. I removed just the carbon and left the other filter media- it was a big sac of carbon. It is an Azoo Mignon Palm filter. I will keep up with water changes until the beneficial bacteria build up and reduce feeding in the mean time.
I've used this HOB filter with a nano tank.
Here's a great filter and here's a great heater for that tank. I would try changing 0.5 - 1 gallon of water once a week once your tank is cycled. Keep an eye on the test results and adjust your water change routine based on what keeps your levels low enough. Make sure you add water treatment (Prime) to that tap water before you add it to the tank.
This Azoo Mignon 60 is a great little filter: https://www.amazon.ca/Azoo-AZ13097-AZOO-Mignon-Filter/dp/B005VEWCMO I'm using it on my 10L vase. It's a HOB so takes up less tank space than internal or air filters. It has adjustable flow so you can turn it down if you find there's too much current.
You have tons of people already going at you with the "just go for the 5 gallon" so I won't bother with that (2.5 gallon is still perfectly acceptable. I have a 1.5 gallon with a happy betta). Anyways, for filter you have a few options. I've used all of these filters as well.
Finnex Pure-5 Power Filter: https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Pure-5-Power-Aquarium-Filter/dp/B004NP66M4
One of the very best filters for small set ups. A definite feature you'll love is the adjustable flow it has. Make sure to baffle it up if necessary. I personally use this one the most in my tanks.
AZOO Mignon Filter 60: https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO
An amazing filter that is very quiet and very powerful. Comes with a pre filter as well so your betta's fin will be super safe. Baffle it up though since it is quite powerful but it's also adjustable.
Fluval Nano Filter: https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A455-Nano-Aquarium-Filter/dp/B004BZKDZC
This one is for when you do get a 5 gallon or bigger. This one is an amazing filter if you are willing to do some DIY on it. One of the major problems is the impeller is sometimes loose in some units and you'll have to wrap some teflon tape on it. If this bothers you, I'd skip this one but this is seriously a great filter.
Another option for filters is a sponge filter which is always cheap and readily available/easily made.
For heaters, you have a few options as well but I'll just list the ones I usually use. NOTE: I personally buy new heaters every year because the possibility of overheating still exists.
Tetra HT-50: https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-Aquarium-50-Watt/dp/B000OQO69Q
Don't let the 50 watt scare you because this one is probably one of the best and trusted non-adjustable heater. It is non-adjustable though so it will keep it at around 24-26°C.
Hydor Original Theo: https://www.amazon.com/Hydor-Submersible-Glass-Aquarium-Heater/dp/B0006JLPG8
One of the most trusted adjustable heaters. Useful for when you need to raise the temperature of your water. I haven't really used this one as much as the Tetra one but it does the job for me.
XiLong Heater: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Water-Heater-Fish-Tank-Adjustable-25-50-100-200-300-Pretty-Aquarium-Submersible-/261412637763
This one may seem like a sketchy buy but I honestly prefer it over the Hydor Original Theo. I use this for my 5 gallon and it keeps the temperature very very stable. Cheap as hell too.
I have two Penn Place Cascade Cannisters 1000s.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ9NY?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Definitletly cascade filters, you could get 2 of them with 530 GPH and still be under $150. from what I hear, they are VERY cheap, reliable, and silent once you get the air bubbles out
100 gallon filter, 265 GPH for $67.95
I was looking at those but the cascade is the same price.... Cascade CCF3UL Canister Filter For Large Aquariums and Fish Tanks - Up To 100 Gallons, Filters 265 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ9NY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RrURDbG3PD113
I have two Cascade 1000 canister filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ9NY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_B-mYDbXM8GERE
It states it cycles 265 GPH but I believe it depends on the amount of media you run inside the canister and overtime the flow decreases.
They have other models the 1200 and 1500 which state it cycles up to 350 GPH but those don't fit in my cabinet.
I use this for my newts at lab: https://www.amazon.com/Cascade-CCF3UL-Canister-Filter-Aquariums/dp/B0002DJ9NY
I say just get a canister, they're pretty simple and do a better job in my experience. I've been using mine for 6 months and no problems
Cascade CCF3UL Canister Filter, 100 Gallon, 265gph https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ9NY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJYpybKQSQWYH
Take a look at the [Penn Plax Cascade 1000](http://www.Cascade.com/ CCF3UL Canister Filter, 100 Gallon, 265gph https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ9NY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MDgSCb7X1B8MF). I have two of them and they've served me well for over a year.
You might consider changing to a canister filter. It will remove tons more waste. Amazon has some cheap ones that are actually very good.
Lots of people with turtles in the comments on this one
Cascade CCF3UL Canister Filter, 100 Gallon, 265gph https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ9NY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kZGQCbZADV6E8
Can also use polyester fiberfill or quilt batting and make/cut your own filters.
I can't answer questions on sand maintenance, since I dont have sand in any of my tanks yet. However, I normally get all of my substrates (and the vast majority of everything else) through Amazon.
This is one of the highest rated sands I've seen/heard of. I'm using their gravel in a tank I'm currently cycling, and I would recommend it, so I don't see why their sand would be any different.
It normally takes a day or two longer to ship substrate than normal, even with prime, but the three or four times I've ordered substrate, it's usually ended well.
Edit: Also, only slightly related, I'm not sure how big your tank is, or what your stocking levels are, or your budget, but if you're looking for an affordable canister, the Penn-Plax Cascade 1000 is rated for tanks up to 100 gal, and it's only $70. I have their 500 (up to 30 gallons) for a 20 gallon tank, and it's incredible.
What are your thoughts on this one?
http://www.amazon.com/Cascade®-Canister-Filter-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B0002DJ9NY
I have owned 2 SunSun 70x filters over the last few years. While they work great at first eventually they both developed leaks around the top. Both times the leaks started right after a filter cleaning, which I only did maybe every 3-4 months. I spent a lot of time trying to diagnose the leaks but never got anywhere. I wouldn't recommend them unless you're OK with it happening eventually.
After my second one started leaking after a filter cleaning I purchased this one as a replacement. It has been going solid so far and seems to be a higher quality design.
Any where it will fit really. Stick it on the bottom. Get rid of the carbon it comes with and add more bio rings. https://smile.amazon.com/Fluval-Biomax-Bio-Rings-ounces/dp/B000HHSG5M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519305194&sr=8-1&keywords=fluval+bio+rings
Cartridges like this are basically scams. They eventually get overloaded and then force you to buy new ones every couple of months, or sooner, depending on how messy your water gets. They also often contain activated charcoal, which is great from removing compounds from your water, but is useless about 99% of the time for aquariums. It will remove medication from water, but generally medications crash your cycle anyways, so a 100% water change is perfectly fine. You're better off with an aquarium sponge to serve as mechanical filtration, which costs about $3, and you can rinse off in your old tank water when you do your water changes, meaning it will last basically forever.
When people talk about media, they mean some sort of hard material that serves as a breeding ground for bacteria, for example this one from Fluval. That's a good thing, as that bacteria is what keeps ammonia from killing our finned friends. Filter media lasts for a long while, and you only ever change out part of it at a time so you keep your cycle running.
Do you already have a filter unit? In basically any filter you can replace their cartridge with a sponge + media with little to no hassle.
I would get these biomax rings and instead of the unassembled bags, I would just toss them right into your filter. Leave your existing pad in there for a few weeks to give the bacteria time to form on the new stuff. You could put the bio rings in a piece of pantyhose if needed. It's cheaper and probably less work.
Would you recommend these?
Canister filters are pretty simple. There's a hose that goes from the tank into the filter (into filter, out from tank). It uses a pump to push the water through a few layers of filter media. First few layers are usually some sort of foam or mesh to help remove larger bits. Next layer is usually a bio media. Next layer is usually a super-fine gritty substance (some people use activated carbon, some folks use something like purigen) wrapped in a mesh bag to help remove all the super-fine bits.
Lastly the pump will push all that water through the output hose into the tank.
Instead of just dumping the water in the tank all willy-nilly, the eheim filters have a spray bar. It's essentially a hose that has lots of holes in the end so that the water comes out neatly across a larger area - instead of just in one big stream.
I've had good luck with this guy for my 15 tall, customized with whatever inserts you prefer.
My configuration is floss -> carbon -> floss -> Matrix stone -> ceramic cylinders on one side, then more ceramic cylinders-> Purigen on the other side. It may be overkill/redundant, but it works well in my semi-Walstad setup (I've done 2-3 water changes in 15 months). At first I thought that it would strip too many trace minerals from my tank, but it's done an admirable job so far.
The ceramic cylinders come with the kit, and I just use it as spacers at the bottom of the filter. It keeps any settled detritus from clogging up the more important stuff. The carbon is cut from a leftover pad that I have for my HEPA filter.
Check out This one of my buddies has his on a nano 8g planted and it works great!
Sun Suns are great for their price as an entry level canister. You get what you pay for, but in a good way I feel. I've never had an issue with mine, but for anything larger than a 40 gallon tank I'd look at getting a more robust and reliable filter.
Since you're running a 20g, you have a few other choices. If you have the cash to spare, Fluvals are great. If you're looking to do this more on a budget, and are OK with stocking fish that don't need/want as much water flow, you could probably even go as low as a TOM Aqurium filter. I picked one up to try out on a 10 gallon build since it was cheap, and it honestly may be a bit too strong for the 10g, but should fit right in with a low/moderately stocked 20g.
I will say with the TOM's you get no frills. You have to manually prime it, and there is no cut offs to make things easy with it. The only really "nice" part about it is that all of the tubing is clear, hard plastic that feels really sturdy.
Check out /r/plantedtank and ask them what are the easiest low-maintenance plants to grow.
If he's hovering near the surface, it might mean the tank water doesn't have enough oxygen for him. Do you have a water filter? I got this one for my 10-gallon betta tank and it's working great.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000YJ0M1E/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?qid=1451700263&sr=8-7&pi=SL75_QL70&keywords=kollercraft
Buddy of mine had good luck with this, and I couldn't hear it at all. And since it is a canister the water level issue won't be there as with a hang-on-back
No I have the fluval one that came with it, the pump isn't loud for me personally but it's in my kitchen so the noise doesn't bug me.
The filter output is really strong yeah, but I bought some of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2QgvDbJYGTT0K and it's baffled the flow of the two nozzles perfectly when I aim them upwards and a little bit above the water line. There's still a little bit of flow, but my betta can swim around very happily now with no issues :) Hope this helped you!
Yeah, but this is probably the only way to reduce the amount of the stuff especially since you're not sure what it is. You should take a closer look anyway and figure out if it look organic or more like dust.
It all depends on what the sponge looks like. It needs to be a shape that will make a good seal around your intake. You can use a zip tie or a clamp of some sort if you need to. And you will know it needs to be unclogged when you return flow rate goes down. I'm sure if you google DIY pre filter you'll find a lot of stuff. Filter floss is very flexible and probably easier to work with than a sponge. If I had to do it again I would probably try filter floss and a clamp to seal it.
You can also get a fluval pre filter from petco/petsmart for like $4. Probably the easiest solution if it fits around your intake.
Our aquaclear is great. If you don't have the funds for a canister filter, and if you plan on keeping/breeding small fish/animals like shrimp you can fit a Fluval Edge prefilter sponge on the intake so you won't have to worry about 'accidents'. http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY
If you're going full-planted, you may consider taking out the activated carbon from the filter and substituting it for filter fiber or similar media, as I've read in some places the activated carbon will get rid of beneficial bacteria.
You'd be surprised how many places shrimp can get into.
Put one of these over the intake
I'd love a more focal stone in the middle, or some more plants to add to the tank. Also, the sponge on the filter is a bit of an eyesore compared to the rest of the tank, I'd consider getting a Fluval Edge pre-filter sponge to clean that up a bit.
Otherwise, I *love* your CPDs.
Replace java moss for xmas moss. Xmas moss is fairly easy to find/cheap nowadays and looks way better than java. Java looks like crazy hair xD And buy a intake sponge. https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY (petco has it for 2.99) Something like this. Your shrimp will appreciate it, not being sucked up and the biofilm that grows on the sponge.
So biomax stuff is your biological media stick some in the filter this is normally where they’d be I do have some scattered through the gravel. Just more surface for bacteria but your main source would be the filter. Never water change and clean filter on same day.
Nitro cycle
Is 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite and between 5/10ppm nitrate. If no ammonia and nitrite in tank, this is sign of established cycled tank. If present not established. You can buy bacteria in a bottle these days which helps.
I’ve also got a betta and in the beginning worried about flow myself. Fluval makes a pretty good sponge for this type of thing. It worked a treat. :)
Fluval Edge Prefilter Sponge https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B002LL32RY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I used these prefilters on my Spec tanks, and actually had to turn the pump to a higher setting. They slide on perfectly and no modifications were necessary.
Yes the koi was a great find, luckily my LFS hand picks there bettas from breeders. Most are show quality and very unique, hence me owning four aquariums!
This one does the job just fine!
I found a site a while ago with lots of tips about using the Spec V for bettas. He recommended, and I use, a Fluval EDGE Prefilter Sponge and stick it over the outflow nozzle. The current is still strong so you get the filtration power, but it's not so strong that your boi gets blown away
http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY
Something akin to these http://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY
They just slide over the filter inlet
On my Spec III, I used this cut in half. Worked wonderfully
You may be looking more for something like this, which is not pretty but would cover the intake and maybe baffle the outflow (if it's too hard for him):
https://www.amazon.com/Fluval-A1387-EDGE-Pre-Filter-Sponge/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481504354&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+prefilter+sponge
As some others have said, that plant is Anubias. That hairy stuff is algae and the brown crud looks like diatoms which is common in new tanks. The "suckerfish" (on the underside of that leaf) you have looks to be some sort of plecostomas which don't eat really anything but certain types of green algae. They aren't algae scrubbers like the old school of thought suggests. I would suggest getting some nerite snails. They cannot breed in fresh water so you won't have explosion of them.
Also, as others have said, get a timer and start keeping your lights on a schedule. Start at 8 hours on and the rest off. You can set it to be whenever you like if you want to enjoy it so you could start it at Noon and push it to 8 pm or however you like. That will help the plants "out compete" the algae.
Finally, get a filter. I have an Aquaclear filter with a pre-filter sponge to keep shrimp out of it. This will also help disturb the surface to keep surface bacteria managed and increase gas exchange at the surface ensuring you have enough oxygen.
As long as the flow is good, then that's fine. Most people that do sponge filters get the hydro-sponge (I have one myself), and use an air pump or powerhead to power it. Doing it the way you do it will act like a pre-filter as well. These are good for this purpose as well.
What is the flow like on your filter after putting this on?
Fluval Edge PreFilter Sponge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l8bQCbCNNCWZM
Buy one of those if you have the fluval spec. works really well and looks nice.
my water doesn’t move but i think that’s just the cost of keeping it mostly still. i just make sure to do water changes.
pre filter
I just got this. Perfect, although a tad expensive for some foam. But prevents my shrimps from getting sucked up. They actually sit on it and eat the detritus and food off it.
I bought my tank about a month ago and have been letting it run, as per the advice I received here. It is now finally ready to house a fish. I don't want to hurt or stress out my fish at all so I waited til everything was set. Plus my tank decor only just arrived due to the original package getting lost by UPS.
I may buy a betta this weekend if I see "the right one" but I am ok with waiting!
Here is a list of things I got, based on the general reddit consensus. I wished someone had included a list like this so here you go
Fluval 5 gallon (includes filter/light)
Hydor heater (hides right in the side part of the Fluval tank)
Thermometer
Sponge thingy to make the filter stream not too strong for bettas (I zip tied it on)
Here is the mobile version of your link
I linked an item that might work to dampen the return flow. Most filters will work for a Betta but you might need to modify it accordingly for their needs. Heck, you could also make this yourself using zip ties and a sponge.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002LL32RY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Good on you for having done your research! It breaks my heart to hear a pet store employee recommending going without.
And thanks! I actually have some insomnia going so I went out and picked up three small ghost shrimp. When I introduced them to my tank, Dirk swam right up, looked at them for a few seconds, and swam away. I'm hoping I have a friendly betta.
Does the aquatop canister look like the Finnex PX-360 one?
I couldn't remember if Finnex & Aquatop had the same canister, or it was Finnex & Azoo.
I have the first two filters. I would not recommend either. The sponge filter is not big enough to fit an air stone inside, which is a must, and the tetra filter just was too loud and had bubbles continuously flowing out the top. I would look into these two:
http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-PX-360-Compact-Canister-Aquarium/dp/B002VFF8U4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463179411&sr=8-1&keywords=finnex+px-360
http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-20-Power-Filter-Listed/dp/B000260FVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463179477&sr=8-1&keywords=aquaclear+20
Here is the desktop version of your link
I think that finnex makes the smallest canister on the market: http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-PX-360-Compact-Canister-Aquarium/dp/B002VFF8U4
But 'small' is really relative here, although it's cool that you can mount it like a HOB.
Tons of sites to buy all this. http://www.drsfostersmith.com/ (good all around) - http://www.adana-usa.com/ (high end and more pricey, but they have the tiny ADA CO2 system) - http://greenleafaquariums.com/ (had good luck with these guys) - Amazon has a ton of stuff too even.
You could try a small canister filter--those are pretty quiet (http://www.amazon.com/Finnex-PX-360-Compact-Canister-Aquarium/dp/B002VFF8U4) but it might be a bit too much for your shrimp unless they have lots of cover.
The AquaClear noise was pretty annoying to me as well, as my tanks are in my bedroom too. They're great filters so I forced myself to get used to it, and it eventually went away. How loud is it though? Shouldn't be loud enough to keep you up, if so there might be something catching the impeller.
Get some of these: https://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1519365577&sr=1-1&keywords=aquaclear+sponges
and go with the 20-30 rated. It's always better to over-filtrate, but with small inverts you need to pre-filter.
The filter current can be too strong for Bettas to swim against. Even in my larger tanks they struggle, and will often try to spend their time as far away from the filter outflow. People 'baffle', or slow down the outflow, in a variety of different ways. Personally I put a filter intake sponge, like this to avoid having any delicate fins sucked into the intake, and then also use a cut, clean water bottle over the flow like this
But your number one goal right now should be not the PH, but rather the ammonia, nitrite and nitrate. Get a liquid test kit, and Prime by Seachem. Those are the two most important things you will ever purchase for the health of your fish. You can return the air stone. Bettas do not need it, and often the increased flow can stress them out.
Using Prime by Seachem as a water conditioner is the best thing you can do for fish in cycling. Widely available at LFS and even Petco. It binds up to 1ppm of Ammonia into a less toxic form, to safeguard against ammonia poisoning between water changes. I will never, ever, ever be without it ever again.
Seconding sponges! My Eheim's spray bar is a bit too forceful as well, and I have covered it with these Fluval cylinder sponges. I used a knife to poke a hole in the bottom of the sponge so I could easily slide it onto the bar. Of course, any shape of sponge can be cut and molded and tied where necessary. I just went for the fool proof option (alas, I am only a fool).
I cut off the bottom part of the 2nd intake tube that came with it (the pointy part), and used it to extend the tube. With an intake sponge https://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1500078885&sr=1-1&keywords=aquaclear+intake+sponges, it is about 1cm off of my substrate.
Be mindful of sand getting into your filter and messing up the impeller magnet. Had it happen to me before when I had sand.
One thing you could do is buy this and put it over the intake:
http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G
Petsmart sells them for like $2.
Probably. He looks fine for now, but you might want to consider a cover for your filter intake. Whether you buy one or make one, sponge pre-filters are good for a number of reasons. They slow the flow so a fish doesn't get stuck or have his fins ripped up. They also provide a good place for beneficial bacteria to grow.
How much do you feed him? The left over food stuck to the filter intake is a likely sign that he's getting over-fed. Most bettas gobble up an appropriate amount of food before it has a chance to get sucked into the filter.
Hrm, something is missing.
Here's the link at least: http://www.amazon.com/Pre-Filter-Sponge-Pack-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B004K9A15G
get pre-filter sponges next time, they work great and all you have to do is rinse it off. amazon link
I run an aquaclear 50 on my 10gal and an aquaclear 30 on my 5gal. You could easily add another 20 and run them together or go with a single bigger one. Bigger ones will have a stronger flow output (though it is adjustable with aquaclears) so keep that in mind if you have fish that struggle with current (like bettas).
Edit: a sponge filter would be good too. But you'll get more bang for your buck with a second hob. You can add a sponge to the intake of the hobs for added filtration.
Here you go:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K9A15G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I think there is a larger pack too. And it doesn't just fit fluval. Mine is an Aqueon.
You definitely need a sponge for your filter intake, I got these here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K9A15G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I also use these prefilter sponges in addition to the sponge inside my filter. I pull them off and rinse them ever couple of weeks.
What you need to prevent the is a prefilter media
I switched to this corner filter and put Seachem matrix at the bottom instead of the ceramic rings for extra filtration since I have a snail and they're poop machines. This sponge filter is also a good option if you only have a betta since it takes up less space i n the tank. A lot of others on this sub have used it and seen good results from what I've read.
For now I have it slightly pointed up so it is creating a slight current to the top surface. The flow of water is going directly to the heater already dispersing the heat.
I think I might put the heater directly on top up my sponge filter so I have movement constantly. I also saw [this filter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00511P8CS/ref=psdc_2975472011_t2_B00HSCB9GC) that I may wanna try. Anyone have thoughts on this vs a regular sponge filter?
I'm very happy with my sponge filter! Here's my set-up:
Bubbler can be found here btw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00511P8CS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You'll need the sponge some airline tubing and an air pump.
Then just hook it up. Different sponge being used by same concept
This ones not too large, and you can stick it to the glass.
Just do it all slowly if you are having trouble affording it. I know how it is to be able to afford even a fish. Just do everything a little at a time. Good Luck!
ok, something like this could work
http://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1463855420&sr=8-8&keywords=sponge+filter
or this
http://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463855420&sr=8-1&keywords=sponge+filter
Could work, keep in mind these are just examples and there are several brands out there that are similar in price and might have better shipping
Marina Battery-Operated Air Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TLWXOS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_cbMdzbCJMNTEY
XY-380 Aquarium Fish Tank Biochemical Sponge Filter, 4-1/2-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051XIN78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XbMdzbCW64ACY
5 Gallon White Bucket & Lid - Durable 90 Mil All Purpose Pail - Food Grade - BPA Free Plastic - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A1LUFEY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FcMdzbJ3S2MBT
I'm sure you can find the bucket cheaper in store.
Usually the sponges have a gallon rating you can go by (on the box, varies by model). This Sponge Filter is similar to the one you describe, and supposedly lists 100 gallons as the max load. People in the comments recommend it only be used in tanks 50 gallons or smaller to be on the safe side. This being said, I ran a 60 gallon sponge in my 40 gallon tank without any issues for several months before upgrading a canister filter.
I'm no expert (feel free to correct me! :P), but from the size of your tank those sponges look more than ample. They're not blocked off, and the pumps are moving air in a steady stream. If you're worried about suction, you can usually feel it when you touch the sponge. If you see slight accumulation of particulate matter on them, it's safe to assume they're working.
Okay this is easy then.
Don't use tap water for anything at all.
We are going to do what is called a water restart. You are going to empty the water (save 5 gallons of water in a bucket and put the little guy you have left in the bucket).
You will have to purchase this product (http://www.hanaquatics.com/salty-shrimp-shrimp-mineral-gh-kh/)
If you get 200g it will last you a lifetime.
Once all the water is drained you will fill the RO/DI water into buckets and add the salty shrimp to RO/DI water until the TDS is between 200-250. Add this water to your tank. Now your tank should be between 200-250 TDS.
Wait 24 hours with the filter running etc.
Take a small bucket of water and drip acclimate your shrimp (see: https://youtu.be/ZSnJjTEjWyU).
This is going to take a few hours. Every 30-45 mins make sure to take some water out of the bucket. Eventually the water in your bucket and the water in the tank will be within 20 TDS of each other. When the water in the bucket is close to the water in the tank you will be set to transfer the new shrimp into his home.
A few pointers about your tank:
The sponge filter will grow mincroorganisms that the shrimp love to eat. It will allow your shrimp to graze and be healthy at all times.
I know this is a large wall of text but once you get the hang of it Neocardina are quite forgiving.
NOTE: The salty Shrimp gh/kh is very concentrated so a little will go a long way.
Tetra is a cheapo brand, I would recommend something else. But it will be fine as long as you baffle the output with a filter sponge or pantyhose.
Something like this would be better (will need an air pump).
You want the “power filter” it mounts on the edge of your tank rather than all the way inside and with one of those you don’t actually need a sponge filter. I was just saying you could use the one you posted with a sponge filter (like this https://www.amazon.com/XY-380-Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter/dp/B0051XIN78) and then just plug the tube on it into the intake of the power head.
Not saying you can't use that one, just not familiar with it. I know for certain that there are no openings on a sponge large enough for fry to get into. While yours is probably safe, I can't say that with any certainty. Sponge filters are standard for fry tanks and are very inexpensive. I use this one on a couple of tanks currently: https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI
I'm finally taking the step to setting up my 10 gallon tank. It came with a tetra whisper air pump and a tube. If I buy [this]( https://www.amazon.com/XY-2822-Double-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium/dp/B005VAFGKI/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1501940272&sr=1-4&keywords=sponge+filter ) small sponge filter, is that all the filtration I need? I thought I needed a specific large hang-on-the-side type filter, but upon reading further it seems I may be wrong. Thank you!
That could be good enough, but I like to over-filter so I'd buy this one is bigger and, though it will take up a side of your tank, I believe it is better. The lift tube goes up higher so it has more pull and you can bury the bottom tubes a little into the sand to make it look better.
I have both and I like the bigger one better. Think soda can vs 1/2 of a red bull can.
Lighting is great, but pricey. My roommate and I just use a lamp with a high-temp (light temp is in Kelvins ~6000 is good).
Heater looks great.
Good luck!
(read your other post and I'm not sure about a pump but that one will get you by for at least cycling. If you want to upgrade, pumps aren't that much so no worries)
So two of these, one of the air pump you linked, and some air pump line will be enough filtration for 29g?
How big is the dual sponge filter? I use one of these in my 10 gallon. On the amazon page, it's rated for 20 gallons and would be good enough as the only filter in the tank. They're nice because you can rinse one of the sponges during a water change and not the other, as to not risk killing off all beneficial bacteria in the sponges.
If you bought the smaller version of the sponge filter, the version with only one suction cup, then I might consider using bother filters. Some will say it may be enough for a 10 gallon but I'm just personally a little iffy on that. It ddefinitely doesn't hurt to use both filters anyway. "Over filtration" isn't a bad thing to do.
This one is rated for 20 gallon tank but since it will not be your primary filter it should suffice.
XY-2822 Air Pump Double Sponge Water Filter for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005VAFGKI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aC1EzbD46WDCH
Air pump:
Tetra 77853 Whisper Air Pump, 40-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pD1EzbT3HXM4V
Don't bother buying a hang on back or something fancier, for just snails buy an air pump and a sponge filter. Definitely fill the tank all the way, and you'll want to do water changes every few weeks (maybe 10%) once the filter is in. Do you have any idea what kind the snails are, if not would you provide a picture.
Someone down the thread suggested a bare bottom tank, and I would recommend the opposite. With sand many snails will burrow and forage for food and what not. Also if you get a filter going, then the poop won't settle so much and will also degrade. That way you shouldn't need to clean the bottom, just change a bit of water every once in a while
Edit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004PB8SMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1521640650&sr=8-5&keywords=aquarium+air+pump&dpPl=1&dpID=417Lgh1JmoL&ref=plSrch
And
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005VAFGKI/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1521640748&sr=8-13&keywords=sponge+filter
I have the 60: https://www.amazon.com/AZOO-AZ13097-Mignon-Filter-60/dp/B005VEWCMO
The 150 is also good.
The only reason I went with the 60 is because it's very small, and there is little bioload in the tank it's on.
Sunsun makes smaller rated canisters but they are still bigger than a HOB. This is a small one https://www.amazon.com/TechnToy-HW-603B-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00CC6SCJQ or https://www.amazon.com/SunSun-Hw302-264GPH-Canister-Filter/dp/B00MGX7JXA/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1469731069&sr=1-1&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter
Also like snowmunkey said, aquaclear HOB are also an excellent choice.
I have one of these in my 2.5gal RCS tank, and it's UH MAAAY ZIIIING. Quiet, and if you take a pre filter sponge, cut it one one side, and wedge it under the outflow there will be almost no surface agitation, like this.
I also have this one and it's great too, but it's REALLY powerful despite it's size. You can put a sponge on the outflow to disperse it too though.
The gap between my tank's glass top and the overhead filter isn't big enough for my guy to crawl through, and it's too high in the tank (5 g) for him to reach easily. You may need to cut a different overhead filter intake to size, so that it doesn't reach as far down into the tank for them to climb.
Check craigslist too, I always see tanks on there.
For heaters, I have a bunch of these, and other than the temperature dial not always being accurate, they work just fine.
This filteris good for a 5 gallon, but you might want to replace the sponges with some better filter media.
I feel your pain. I have a 3 gallon nano tank and it took FOREVER to find a filter that won't be too strong for my betta. Finally I found a good one: Mignon 60.
There's a little nob on the intake that will allow you to adjust the flow. In a 5.5 gallon it should be perfect.
If even at the lowest setting you think is too strong, you can also take the black rectangle sponge and put it on the outflow (see the instructions here. I had to do this because my tank is only 3 gallon. But in your 5 gallon I think just the intake nob adjustment will be enough.
Good luck!
Thanks.
>smaller tank will never fully cycle
That's not true at all.
I have one in a 2 gallon cube, with this filter and this heater. Added eco complete, plants, floating plants and the tank pretty much takes care of itself. Plenty of things in there to absorb nitrates.
EDIT: I should add, nobody should start out with a nano tank until you have experience under your belt, just that it is doable. For the most part, beginners should start with a 5-10 gallon for bettas. It's also much easier to find off the shelf equipment for it in stores.
If you're still interested in trying CO2 at a lower cost, I used this.
https://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1484320229&sr=8-2&keywords=diy+co2
You can find tons of Youtube Videos on how to set it up. You will need the above, two 2 liter bottles, a diffuser, and bubble counter. You probably also want a check valve to prevent siphoning.
You will also need to remember to turn the CO2 off each night, or to turn an air bubbler on. If too much CO2 builds up, it will kill your fish by morning.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JzvfHO31Ug - This video explains it all!
Something like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=asc_df_B008CUZJF65366434/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B008CUZJF6&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167116240456&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=800364960242656855&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010285&hvtargid=pla-305618839130
Joey the king of diy had a YouTube video on these setups. I am about two weeks into running one. Buy baking soda for about 50 cents a pound at Walmart and I got a 10 pound bag of citric acid on Amazon for about $25.
Not OP, but I followed the guide laid out here a while back : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1JzvfHO31Ug&t=76s
and the kit is available on Amazon : https://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6
Personally, I found this to be too unreliable for me (But I was running a much larger tank). I'd imagine this would work well for smaller tanks though.
theres a super good diy set up thats super cheap. Baking soda +water then in other bottle citric acid and 3 parts water with hoses and valves built in. Let me know what you think of my list and let me know if im missing anything if you dont mind
Diffuser System
glass co2 checker
drops co2
bubble counter
The glass spiral diffuser
This is what I've got going on.
I bought this cap/hose system
This diffuser
You don't absolutely need a bubble counter but you could buy one if you want to be more precise. Also, the cap/hose thing allows for an easy and simple set up.
i used a system like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_PLoOyb8PKEMAW
then something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002APX5U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_aOoOyb1YCZFSN
inline before the bubble counter to get finer control of the gas. its not made for co2 but it worked ok. I had this setup on a 3 gallon so i really had to dial it back. you might be ok with the 1 valve on a 12 gal.
Thank you very much! Should I pair that with this little kit?
https://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=diy+co2&qid=1557886690&s=gateway&sr=8-17
Reviews seem iffy, but it'd be a good way to gain experience with CO2 systems for not a lot of money.
Sorry it took me so long to respond. I've had a rough/busy week. Here is a link to the setup I purchased, minus the 2 litre bottles and chemicals. https://www.amazon.ca/ZJchao-DIY-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6
It also contains a metal ball on the Citric Acid side with a magnet to pull it out of the liquid and stop the reaction. All of this is attached to airline tubing and then into a 3 in 1 glass diffuser with a ceramic plate.
My aquarium is a 30g community tank. Cardinal and Rummynose Tetras, Harlequin Rasboras, an EBR and a GBR. Also lots of live plants.
this video pretty much explains it I bought everything I needed from Amazon & big Al's
[diy system](ZJchao DIY CO2 Aquarium Plant System https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4JwzybTHT4HK9)
Citric acid I bought from Amazon and baking soda was from grocery store
[3 in 1 diffuser, bubble counter, check valve. I live in Canada I bought it from Big Al's](Tropica CO2 Diffuser (3-in-1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017EHHWKC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SMwzybE3D2YMT)
[co2 drop checker](Fluval CO2 Indicator Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052M9886/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_sQwzyb6Z9EGKE)
I've read about ppl saying to be careful not to tip over the bottles so I just cut 2 holes in a box to make sure the bottles didn't fall
I've been considering setting up a DIY Co2 system. Would something like this be a good place to start? http://www.amazon.com/DIY-CO2-Aquarium-Plant-System/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=pd_sim_199_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=511Ek4woPxL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0BC8SD6AFR3HPD5WDBZA
Couple of ways. There is the yeast/sugar and baking soda/citric acid. I find the baking soda way to be more reliable. You will need 2 2l liter bottles and i would buy the diy co2 kit that is super awesome. Also diffuser and bubble counter. I run my tank with 2-3 bubs.
DIY CO2 Aquarium Plant System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CUZJF6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.OxgybV71V35P heres a link!
Why not try DIY CO2. I bought one of these for a low tech tank and it works very well. The gauge doesnt work but it doesnt need to. For some reason the instructions show a tube going down into the liquid of the main reactor but that doesnt make sense and you should just pull it off. Mine is still producing CO2 3-4 weeks after i initially set it up.
I use this one. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CUZJF6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wow. Some people!
If you go down the DIY route I recommend Citric acid & bicarb instead of yeast. Much, much more reliable and tunable.
I use this:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B008CUZJF6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
With an upgraded needle valve (a must):
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00PBDQJK6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
looks like "melt"
I advice a simple DIY CO2... seeing what my plants did after struggling for ages is wonderful.
just need a few cheap amazon parts to order and sugar, bit of baking soda yeast and a cpl old lemonade bottles.
You'd be golden and hitting your head why you didn't do this before.
Oh sorry!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008CUZJF6/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza
I'm going to make this list assuming that you have Amazon in your area and that either you or someone you know has Amazon Prime. If not, then think of this as more of a template that you can tweak using what you have available to you:
Hopefully you have Amazon Prime available to you where you are, and if so none of this requires any shipping charge. If you do at most this will cost you $115.79, leaving you lots of money to spend on shrimp and plants! Hope this was helpful to you, best of luck!
The sales rep nearly refused to tell me how to shoot him but its not a huge fan of this filter. Now, whether this is football, but I still don't understand why this guy spent a lot better being there in person.
Yes, I'm using a Deep Blue Biomaxx Nano filter and a 50W Aqueon Preset heater. I know they're both way overkill for a bowl this small, but I have the heater on a control circuit of its own to keep from boiling the shrimps if it fails, and the filter is baffled to slow the outflow.
Either that or its not a huge fan of this filter.
http://i.imgur.com/kujrMR6.jpg
2.5 gallon
Fauna: 4x White Cloud Minnow
Flora: Hemianthus Callitrichoides
Cryptocoryne Parva
Marimo Moss
Unknown plant in the back. Trying to find something to fill in the back.
Driftwood: Manzanita
Equipment: Beamswork 12" LED
Deep Blue Biomaxx Nano Filter
Rhinox Glass Drop Checker
Rhinox 1000 Glass Diffuser
Empire Paintball 24oz. CO2 tank
AquaTek Mini CO2 Regulator
AquaTek CO2 Tubing
DIY Teabag + Activated Carbon filter
Plug Timer
Dosing: 0.5 mL/day Flourish Excel
0.5mL/week Flourish Comprehensive
CO2: 8 hours, Light: 8 hours, offset 30 minutes.
I've been using this nano filter on a ~2 gallon tank and it's been amazing. Not sure if you have a flat side to stick it on, but if so, this filter allows you to adjust the flow. It's great.
Deep Blue Professional ADB88700 Biomaxx Nano Filter for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUFTI6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_TRvavb1BCPAVP
There are a couple companies selling essentially the same little filter. They all come out to about this price once you include shipping.
Way too much. Use a deep blue nano filter. More than enough for a shrimp tank. I have 2 zoomed nano canisters and the flow is too much. I use one on my 13 gallon guppy tank and it blows my fry around.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BUFTI6Q?pc_redir=1409141855&robot_redir=1
This one was recommended in the past on here. It's been working great for my little guy in his 5 gallon tank.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BUFTI6Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
These guys.
Can anyone recommend which sponge filter I should get? Either this or this? One is $10 Canadian while the other is $5.
I have something like this and I like it
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J1ogAbB10K68A
Sponge filter with an air pump and a check valve. Cheap and easy. My local store uses them in every tank. If they will put hundreds of thousands of dollars worth of fish in tanks run by them then I trust it. It's what I swear by.
The medium which facilitates the nitrogen cycle, this known as a biofilter.
So you ether make a bio filter or use a sponge biofilter for aquariums.
https://youtu.be/Mx2vjF4Lgd4
https://www.amazon.com/BACTO-SURGE-HIGH-DENSITY-FOAM-FILTER/dp/B00GOFPX9I
How big is your tank? How many fish are in it?
For 2 or 3 fancy goldfish I'd recommend this size. (5 x 5 x 6 in).
Sorry, I thought you had said 10 gallon. Since you have a 29 gallon, I would get a sponge that is meant for at least 29 or 40 gallons.
Even in my 10 gallon bowl, I have this sponge because it's easy to hide behind the plants, and it only costs a few dollars more to get the bigger/better sponge. It should even work great for you. People on amazon are using it for their 40 gallon. I would get either this one or a corner sponge
https://www.amazon.com/Hikari-Bacto-Surge-Density-Filter-Large/dp/B00GOFPX9I?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_3
Set up for single Axolotls
Realistic initial start up cost $135
Excluding cost of axolotl
$5-$40 20g tank MINIMUM preferably 30g (offer up, let go, Facebook groups and pet stores)
$1-$70Hides - decor or caves or even home made must be water safe even pvc piping works minimum of 2 (decor can become expensive fast if you want to make your tank look very “pretty”)
$20-$30Filter - something with low current flow sponge filter or a canister filter with something to break up a strong flow if you have a sponge filter you need air line tubing and a air pump
Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oov7AbY5ESARC
Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kpv7AbQ20H9V7
Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YF4FI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Hpv7AbC3Y8R2Z
$10-$15 Water additives
Water dechlorinator follow instructions on bottle if the tank isn’t fully cycled use prime plus follow instructions on bottle
API TAP WATER CONDITIONER Aquarium Water Conditioner 16-Ounce Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1qv7AbHFPEHT5
Tetra 77960 SafeStart, 15-Gallon, 50-ml, 1.69-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E2RI74/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1tv7AbDHHEMEY
$20-$35 API water test kit to make sure the water is in good parameters
http://www.axolotl.org/requirements.htm
API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zvv7AbK35G0WW
$2-$10 Aquarium thermometer that reads down to 60 degrees F
CNZ Digital LCD Thermometer for Aquarium Fish Tank Vivarium Reptile Terrarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KPXVI94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yxv7Ab1NSQ5H6
$5-$20 Aquarium syphon
Aqueon Medium Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 9-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK1WBK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2aw7Ab3Z5KS9B
Feeding
$2.50-$3 Fishing earth worms (Walmart sporting goods section)
$10-$15 blister pack of 30 blood worm cubes (I can sell them to you while supplies last for $15 or you can buy them at any pet shop that sells fish)
Earth worms when they get bigger try to feed them nibbles of a worm like the size of their head and move up as they get bigger and frozen blood worms for first month to month and a half try to feed the earth worms to the axolotls ever couple days by hand until they start accepting them they might start accepting earth worms as soon as a week after receiving them from me (feed frozen blood worms every other day until they are regularly eating pieces of worm )
Maintenance
You can use a turkey baster and clean up their poops as you see them you’ll still have to do water changes but much less water 25%-35% or use a syphon once a week and do a 30%-50% water change along with the water dechlorinator and some of the safe start plus make sure to test the water regular with the api test kit
Keeping the water to the correct temperature
60-64F is the perfect water temp for them but it can be hard to achieve during summer but doing more regular water changes can help with that and putting a fan over the aquarium blowing on it will help by up to 4-5 degrees
NO SAND OR GRAVEL ESPECIALLY NO GRAVEL EVER sand maybe fine once they are 6-7inches but they will swallow it and they can become impacted and possibly lead to death
It's not really gonna grow biobacteria on anything but the very surface of stuff with just the bubbler sitting in there.
Whether or not it will support enough bio-bacteria just on the surfaces of the tank is gonna depend on the size of your tank, how much you feed, how much you clean it, and how big your air pump is. You can't really know for sure without testing the water periodically after you remove the sponge filter since there's too many factors to take into account. It's possible it is enough, but nobody can accurately say for sure.
Could you try a corner filter like this instead? https://www.amazon.com/Corner-Filter-Aquarium-Internal-XY-2008/dp/B00HSCB9GC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1500855910&sr=8-4&keywords=corner+filter+aquarium It works similar to the sponge filter but everything is enclosed in plastic so they can't eat it. I've used them with just gravel in them before. Or you could try to do similar with PVC pipe like u/VolkovME mentioned, but unless you already have PVC lying around it's probably cheaper/easier just to buy a corner filter.
I use the corner filter. You will need to get an airpump with it, but you should be able to adjust the flow with a valve in the tube.
Some people will add Seachem Purigen to the bottom layer below the sponges for more chemical filtration, but I personally don't. I have a 10 gallon, planted, low-tech tank and only use Purigen if I need to remove a medication. I use the Tetra Whisper airpump to drive the filter, and I dose my plants with Seachem Flourish Excel.
This is all you'll need along with an air pump and an air stone to get the bubbles smaller.
No filter means no flow. Stagnant water gets nasty. A sponge filter also provides a massive amount of surface area for beneficial bacteria, which keeps the tank healthy and deals with the waste created by the shrimp.
You'll notice that the YouTube "no filter" setups have an absolutely enormous amount of plants. An Iwugami setup (the kind with hardscape and a carpet and not much else) will never work without filtration as there aren't enough plants to deal with the waste.
You can get very tiny sponge filters super cheap on Amazon. I'm hoping that jar holds at least two gallons- if so, this one will work great. Yes, I know it claims it's for 10 gallons but it's super tiny- I have one just like that which I used in a 2-gallon tank.
If it's less than two gallons...I wouldn't even try keeping shrimp in it, TBH.
Aquatop Aquatic Supplies Classic Aqua Flow Sponge Aquarium Filter Up To 10 Gal CAF-10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HYEO8H6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.dxRAbKA4FA04.
I have this one, works good and very small. Just need pump, tubing, and check valve.
This one is a little too huge for my tank (I have this: https://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/fish/fish-aquariums-kits/aquariums-up-to-ten-gallons/imagitarium-pro-delux-freshwater-aquarium ). I think I am going to try out this aquatop filter instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HYEO8H6/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER
Thank you so much for the advice!
I use these on my AC50 and they fit perfectly
If you have a Hang on Back filter, on the intake (er the suction part) I suggest you stick one of those pre-filter sponges on it, I got mine on amazon here (https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Pre-Filter-Sponge-Fluval-Aquarium/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500061442&sr=8-2&keywords=fluval+edge+pre-filter+sponge), but really if you go to a petstore and find one of the replacement Fluval sponges, you can cut a hole in the middle and then jam it on the intake and it'll keep your little one from swimming up it.
 
If your goldfish is super super small, you may want to invest in a sponge filter or one of those filters powered by an air pump that where it intakes the water through a sponge.
 
Also as Karloesh said, keep the filter media. In water, preferably in the tank where your goldfish is in so that the bacteria doesn't die off.
 
I don't have advice for the spot on his face, but if he has scrapes or something, you may want to pick up some melafix (http://www.apifishcare.com/product.php?id=629#.WWkfroTyuUk) to keep him from getting any infections and to help heal wounds. Make sure that if you have any carbon in your filter you take it out or else the carbon may suck up the medication. Also follow the directions on the bottle.
 
Let me tell you that I had a situation similar to that where my baby goldfish managed to wedge himself somewhere and rip a patch of scales off his body and a small part of his tail fin off (and similarly, he still ate and swam and looked okay except for the whole fin and scale issue), but if you do regular water changes (while priming your water), and keep an eye on him while he heals up, he should be okay. It's been a bit over a month since my baby got hurt, but since then he's regrown all his scales back and most of part of his tail that got ripped off grew back. :)
Sand is pretty easy tbh. You shouldn’t have to worry about it blowing around, a betta tank shouldn’t have that strong of a flow. Sponge filter is the easiest option. If you want a HOB filter, put foam around the intake for a [mechanical prefilter and betta fin guard](LTWHOME Pre-Filter Sponge/Foam Set For Fluval Edge Aquarium (Pack Of 12) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J5Z44OE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_aIsNBbGW56V4D)
Just get a HOB rated at 10g or less and that has adjustable flow so you can turn it down. [Aquaclear](Aqua Clear 20 Power Filter - 110 V, UL Listed (Includes AquaClear 20 Carbon, AquaClear 20 Foam & AquaClear 20 BioMax) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000260FVG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RKsNBbY81XP7A) and [Azoo Mignon 150 or 360](Azoo Mignon Filter 360 Aquarium Power Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LLJ8OFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BOsNBbVM2B6ZN)
Something like this might be better than a 3d print https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J5Z44OE/
Is this the one ? https://www.amazon.com/XINYOU-XY-2830-Aquarium-Bio-Sponge-Filter/dp/B00KZJYC9G/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1520484265&sr=8-8&keywords=mini+sponge+filter
My set up is the smallest Tetra air pump they sell with some chinese sponge filter
cost me about $15 for the whole set up (had extra hose laying around, so you'll need airline tubing as well). Super easy to set up, and the pump comes with a small valve to control how much air you let into the sponge.
I had this, found out that more bubbles fixes it typically, then I put a cheap $5 sponge filter in the tank and I haven't had an issue with it since.
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I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZJYC9G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Tank: https://www.marinedepot.com/aquamaxx-long-cuboid-low-iron-rimless-aquarium-9-1-gallon
Inlet: JARDLI Glass Lily Pipe Inflow with Surface Skimmer for Aquarium Planted Tank (13mm for 12/16mm (1/2'' i.d.) tubing) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZ2DV9W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wDzzDb0HCMQJQ
It's barely fits. It basically touches the glass on the bottom and the bend sits about 3 inches over the glass. Also had to cut part of the inner piece off to shorten it so it wouldn't restrict the flow if the water evaporated.
That canister filter has different sized inflow (leading into the pump, away from the tank) vs outflow (leading out of the pump, towards the tank. I have the same one.
The inflow is a pretty common size, the size you're looking for is 13mm for 12/16mm (1/2'') tubing. This is widely available both in premium brands and value brands. You can look at the aqua forest aquarium site in the sidebar, labeled Aqua Design Amano, or GLA labeled Green Leaf Aquariums in the sidebar, or find them on amazon, JARDLI being a common 'value' product creator on there.
The outflow is less common, you're looking for 10mm for 9/12mm (3/8") tubing. This is less available-- GLA does not carry this size afaik. Aqua Forest Aquarium and JARDLI do carry it, but your selection may be somewhat limited.
I use this inflow and this outflow. That outflow will not work with a rimmed tank, I was just providing it as an example. The inflow is big enough to fit over a rim, but its surface skimming action can be a bit risky (tough to get the floating level right, if you do it wrong it won't skim and if you do it very wrong it will pull bubbles into your pump)-- so take some time to look at your options before springing for one.
See my other reply, it basically just cuts the crud that floats on top of the water.
https://www.amazon.com/Inflow-Surface-Skimmer-Aquarium-Planted/dp/B01LZ2DV9W
[This one]
(https://www.amazon.com/Inflow-Surface-Skimmer-Aquarium-Planted/dp/B01LZ2DV9W/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1520644091&sr=8-15&keywords=jardli+lily+pipes)
glass is riskier... I broke my first inflow pipe (not a skimmer one) and it turned into a whole ordeal which ended with me losing a fish and was a bit heart-breaking.... but I still replaced it with the glass skimmer lmao (the skimmer part itself is plastic and very easy to clean!)
the steel would be nice because you wouldn't see algae on the inside where it is hard to clean out.
No floaters in this tank, they def would get stuck to it but unless you have really small floaters like duckweed it should be the end of the world. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LZ2DV9W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the one I have
We've all been through it. I cant tell you how much money I've spent listening to people at pet stores only to have it blow up in my face later.
Here is the sponge filter:
https://www.amazon.com/Aquaneat-Aquarium-Sponge-Filter-Breeding/dp/B078HDL21V/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=sponge%2Bfilter&qid=1555873582&s=gateway&sr=8-5&th=1&psc=1
And the pump:
https://www.amazon.com/Aquaneat-Aquarium-Adjustable-Accessories-Outlets/dp/B0793N3Q3T/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?crid=3RA6O7SSNS55L&keywords=2+outlet+air+pump+aquarium&qid=1555873747&s=gateway&sprefix=2+outlet+air&sr=8-12
You can get the filters individually but I always like yo have an extra around in case I wanna start up a new tank or have a hospital tank I just leave it in a cycled aquarium for a couple weeks and it's like instant cycled