Best autmotive daytie running lamp modules according to redditors

I'm going on my first adventure tour next week, possibly on the Tennessee TAT (Trans America Trail) but I heard it's mostly paved and boring so if it is, we'll ditch and go elsewhere.

I'm used to riding a street bike and being very visible from all angles, so I wanted more visibility from the front end for oncoming traffic and people turning out in front of me. Additionally, I wanted to free up some power from the alternator for other uses (heated gear, charging phone, etc) so here is my solution:

1. LED H4 headlight from cyclops. Here is the page:
   
   http://www.cyclopsadventuresports.com/3600-Lumen-H4-H6M-LED-Headlight-bulb-_p_83.html
   
   Power savings: 30W on low, 25W on high beam (yes, it does both). And it's BRIGHT - triple the brightness of the original halogen.
   
   
2. Cheap ($6.90 shipped) LED light strips from Amazon. Here is the page:
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C1YI2XA/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B00C1YI2XA&linkCode=as2&tag=itrencom-20&linkId=SOF223PIZIJ72O2U
   
   Power used: 6W per side, for a total of 12W. This means I'm still ahead by 18W when the low beam is on and 13W when the high beam is on. I obviously can't run massive accessories but every little bit helps with the OEM stator on the bike. IMPORTANT NOTE: I removed the cheap Chinese double-sided tape and used high quality 3M automotive grade double-sided tape to be sure they stay put. This required some liquid adhesive remover (you could probably make do with alcohol) and some new tape so perhaps my cost on these was $0.25-$0.50 higher than I stated above.
   
   To wire them up I simply pulled the headlight and used a DVM to check which wires were switched power and soldered them directly to the headlight wire. Since I'm no longer using the OEM halogen bulb, the wires have the extra current capacity necessary and it won't be an issue. Then neatly zip tie the wires so that they won't pull out of the LED strips or be under stress, and out of the way of any moving parts, and voila - you have yourself a nice lower power but VERY bright setup.
   
   You can't tell in the photos but the LED strips are incredibly bright.

They are just DRL LED strips that came with the car as one of the add-ons you could get from Scion. I think they were like $400 extra or something ridiculous. But these replica ones look identical and I'm sure are just as good

https://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Daytime-Running-Lights-2013-up/dp/B00DEK56AM

I ordered these waterproof, aluminum encased LED light strips from Amazon @ $9 shipped with Prime: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C1YI2XA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Based on the reviews and videos, one should be plenty for the interior of the cooler. I'm planning to drill a hole in the top center of the side opposite the drain where I will insert this waterproof connector and seal it with epoxy.

EDIT: http://www.adafruit.com/products/743

I had the same reservations about compromising the cooling integrity of the very expensive cooler I just bought. I realized though that the drain isn't insulated so I expect the effects to be minimal.

I'll mount whatever power source I choose on the outside of the cooler using velcro. Still haven't decided which way I'll go.

Thanks! My air filter is stock. What i did is remove the 2 cylinder inside to make more air getting sucked. Then spray the grille with black matter paint. By the way, heres the link below

GTinthebox 2PC Flexible... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6JN2SJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I got these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D6JN2SJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I later swapped them for more expensive blinkers unfortunately... check my post history two pictures back if you want to see what they look like.

Gotchas:

1. I was under the assumption the lights would look like a solid strip. It's hard to tell in pictures, but you can see each individual LED very well. I didn't really like that look. I didn't mind it for the blinkers, but didn't like the running light. Not too big of a deal because you can just cut the running light wire.
   
   
2. there is 3M tape on the back, mine was old or something it would barely hold on. It started to peel off and I had to add some of my own tape after a couple days
   
   
3. they come with zip ties as an extra mechanism to secure them. That was great for one of them since the 3M didn't work. On the other one, the zip tie was attached to it crooked and when I started to tighten it, it snapped in half. I had to jerry-rig my own zip tie system.
   
   
4. Your blinkers will blink fast since the LEDs have lower resistance. You can fix it by getting a new relay, I haven't done this yet but plan on it.
   
   Other than that, they worked and were brighter than I thought. Hope this helps!