(Part 3) Best automotive battery terminals according to redditors
We found 158 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive battery terminals. We ranked the 49 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 41-60. You can also go back to the previous section.
Here's an imgur album with some photos now. I'm uploading other ones right now, and they should be added to the album later today.
The resistors are all family members of this guy. They're 1000W resistors, and can handle 10,000W for 5 seconds. The bottom three are .25 ohm, 4th one is .5 ohm, and the top one is the 1 ohm I linked to. I used these knife switches, but I didn't use the whole thing. My original plan was to use the leads provided on the switch, but I realized once I was holding one in my hand I could unscrew the brass contacts and just bolt those directly to the aluminum rail. Each knife switch can handle 250A continuous, and 750A intermittent. The aluminum rails are just 1"x.5" 6061 bars I ordered from McMasterCarr. It's all mounted on 3/4" plywood with counter bored 1/4-20 carriage bolts.
Just so you know, absolutely nothing is broken here. the bolt your spinning has a square head to it. Its supposed to butt up against the terminal and the square head keeps it from rotating. for whatever reason the bolt your showing is not locking against the terminal as it should to prevent it from free spinning. look at this photo see how there is a small flange to keep the square end of the bolt from spinning? yours is just missing that or the bolt used is the wrong size or something.
all you gotta do is put a wrench on one end of the bolt (the square end) and a wrench on the nut, and undo it. Or wedge a flat head between the head of the bolt and the terminal (as if your creating the "flange" needed to keep it locked) to keep it from spinning, and undo the nut.
nothing is stripped or broken here. thats how all terminal bolts look. see here
aint gonna work unless you drill the hole out.
you need this one https://www.amazon.com/East-Penn-01056-Battery-Terminal-x/dp/B000CGFOAI
May I suggest a pair of these
It's a 2003 Chevy Impala. I have tried multiple 4 awg rings but they are not long enough and that red rubber gets in the way. The ring needs to go inbetween the red rubber and the black sticking out from the terminal in case its hard to tell in the picture. I have tried a couple different rings like this
http://www.amazon.com/Pico-Battery-Brazed-Terminals-Package/dp/B00030CXXY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1382576497&sr=8-3&keywords=4+awg+ring+lug
Your best fix is replace the cables. The type of fix you are talking about will haunt you. That hardware will introduce another place for corrosion in the wire.
This will work, and if you cut the wire at the very end it should still be long enough. See the two bolts? That will corrode just like at the battery. Clean it before it gets to nasty.
http://www.amazon.com/Road-Power-Battery-Terminal-12-Volt/dp/B000BPTUHI/
Use this terminal on the battery. It replaces the original battery bolt and adds an extra terminal to connect to.
Stinger SPT55308 PRO Series Classic Short GM Battery Post Shoc-Krome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001F6P98Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vVtQDb64G9SK1
Then Crimp or solder proper sized ring terminal on the cable shown in your hand. Bolt it on the end of the battery terminal.
There's also a longer version part number spt55309 if needed.
Yes you could mount some remote jumper terminals similar to what many cars with buried batteries have.
www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZZA5Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fsBtxbHDWBBVN
That or get an adapter to be able to use something more widely available. I'll look around to see if I can find a bolt on terminal and let you know if I do.