Best automotive intake manifolds & parts according to redditors

Greetings, fellow 3800 owner! Those plastic intakes are a nightmare. You can try swapping an aluminum one from a Series III motor on there, but it will require a throttle body adapter for the TB to fit. I think you are better off just getting a good aftermarket replacement like this one. They are pretty easy to install and it should last a long time. That ATP intake seems to be more durable and better made than the Dorman one, I replaced my intake with a Dorman one 2 years ago but I can see it warping near the TB slightly already. What car is that 3800 in? What led up to you having to replace the ICM?

Have you checked to see if there is fuel getting to the carb? There probably is a vacuum fuel valve between the fuel filter and the carb, bolted to the frame. If the hose is cracked or torn, or the valve is bad, the carb won't get enough, or any, fuel. Try bypassing it and try starting it then.

I had this exact issue, though mine would start and idle just fine, but die after about a minute on throttle. Got a new carb, same issue. Found I had a torn vacuum hose at that fuel valve. I replaced the hose, and it ran just fine. For a little while. It would die after a few more minutes. I bypassed the valve, and it ran properly all day. So I checked the valve by sucking on the vac hose and seeing how much fuel was flowing out of the fuel line to the carb, and found it was just a trickle.

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A replacement is about 6 dollars, and at least is an easy thing to check before you order.

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https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7AKKCM/

Good thing it's only like 20 bolts to get to it. The plastic manifold likes to warp too, and a dorman replacement with all the gaskets is only $80 on Amazon. http://smile.amazon.com/Dorman-615-180-Intake-Manifold/dp/B000C17G5E

https://www.amazon.com/Ford-Racing-M9424P46-Intake-Manifold/dp/B000CNHT0E
I went with this one when mine failed, can't be happier.

It's your intake tube/intake pipe.

They crack over time, so yeah, he totally tried to seal it with silicon.

They're cheap.

Here's one on Amazon that looks like it will work

This one is cheaper - might work too.

It's pretty easy to put on. Those two bolts, one clamp, make sure the o-ring is in place. It might be hard to cram your carb spigot into the new one the first time.

Your new one will wear out in a few years too...

Make sure that your carbs are synced and cleaned properly first. I bought mine from Amazon. Here is the the link. iFJF Carburetor Intake Manifold...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079L2CPCG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

https://www.amazon.com/Mercedes-Intake-Manifold-Runner-Aluminum/dp/B01KBFYZHM

Aluminum one for less than fifty bucks right here

Thanks.

After a few beers...

I pulled the trigger on it as well as a new intake manifold, a gasket, a Keihin carb, (I just bought a carb but could always use a better quality one). A gang of tools. This kit arrived as well as 3 different hi flow air filters due to some order confusion.

I hope all this, when installed and tuned, at least gets me to 38/40mph faster with good throttle response and is reliable. I'm not looking for top end speed so much.

This was just supposed to be something to learn how to 'wrench' on, but lately I've been wanting to fix it up all sporty like and actually use it as transportation.

It's plastic on most new cars. It's also not available on the Cruze unless you buy it complete, meaning with the throttle body and all 4 injectors. You can still get one for ~$400, but that's a lot of money to drop on a cruze.

As for why they go bad, this is the fun part. Both the Intake and the Valve Cover have non replaceable one way check valves inside them as parts of the Crankcase Ventilation system, and both like to go bad.

Fairly common issue on lots of turbo cars, the VW/Audi 2.0 FSI motors have a similar problem with the valves going bad, but at least they are easy and cheap to replace.

I would check the fuel petcock and the vacuum line that goes to it. The TaoTao I just bought used, had a similar issue and there was a vacuum leak in the line that goes from the intake to the petcock. Also, check that vacuum line for fuel as that is a sign that the diaphragm in the petcock has failed.

No access to ebay at work. Here's one on Amazon that has mixed reviews. Apparently some people do not receive all of the parts. I'd also still need the elbows and lower set, plus whatever else I'm not aware of.

I'm checking rockauto right now.

I just replaced my 06 CVPI. I replaced with factory (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CNHT0E?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title) and like it better than the dorman. Dorman/aftermarket fitting is weird (it works, but some bolts are 'tight' threading in) and the flash/roughness leftover from the plastic casting is rather nasty. It's a part you'll only replace once, I'd stick with oem. Ive done 30+ of these (I'm a mechanic.)

The fuel filter had never been replaced and I could see visible dirt in it. I'll just get a new one and clamps (something like this https://www.amazon.com/Wings-Inner-Colorful-Motorcycle-Performance/dp/B012MBE460/ seems right?)
For the vacuuum petcock something like https://www.amazon.com/VACUUM-PETCOCK-ROKETA-CHINESE-SCOOTER/dp/B00E7AKKCM would be good? I didn't see anything to suggest it was broken but if it is known to break and cheap to replace may as well do it and have a more reliable bike.

Great site... i need the connector for this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0080DJE92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_HUUzzbQVC2CRV
I see the site you recommended has lots of connector pieces but without pictures it makes it difficult to know if I chose the right piece of they even carry it 😅

OK, as long as there really isn't a power decrease while driving I am fine with it. It looks/sounds cool (and I kept the stock intake just in case).

Before I add the next mod, is this a good idea: http://www.amazon.com/Motordyne-Plenum-Spacer-Basic-350Z/dp/B0040TCMU8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405050365&sr=8-2&keywords=jwt+pop+charger

Here it is. This is the most widely recommended manifold because it is an OEM equivalent and is from what I know, the only one that will not lose you horsepower. I certainly feel a difference coming from the Dorman.

Note I did this on a 2007, so make sure the fitment is correct for your vehicle first.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CNHT0E/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Let me know if you have any questions at all. I also have photos from my breakdown. Several lessons learned on my end. Some big ones were:

1. Removing the windshield wiper assembly and cowl. The joints that the arms swivel on can be pulled apart and regreased, which I did.
   
   
2. Filling corrosion/pitting around the coolant ports on the heads with JB weld
   
   
3. Disassembled fuel rail, cleaned all the injectors by hand, and replaced their O-rings. Used the Fel Pro rings, two rings per injector.
   
   
4. On the Dorman, a lot of the mounting bolts were replaced by self tapping screws, so I had to match bolts to get the Ford part back on. I can give you the specs for those if you need them.

i've never worked on a car before; i'm going to look for some quotes throughout the county over this weekend, and if i can't find anything under $1000 i'll pick this up and install it.

I replaced all the gaskets. The part I used was this. The kit includes new gaskets. I even used RTV silicon around all the o-rings that connect to the coolant holes in the engine block.

Thanks for the reply though!

its been a few years but luckily i saved most of the build in a text file

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/spe-2429

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1414

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1423

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-m08750vs

http://www.amazon.com/1958-86-Chevy-Small-Valve-Covers/dp/B0032CXGX6

http://www.amazon.com/Holley-12-803BP-Fuel-Pressure-Regulator/dp/B000CMDV84

http://www.amazon.com/Edelbrock-2701-Performer-Intake-Manifold/dp/B00063046Q

http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-9810-Chrome-Breather/dp/B000BWCGA4

x3 http://www.amazon.com/Spectre-Performance-Chrome-Fuel-Fitting/dp/B00062ZDAE/ref=pd_sim_auto_10

http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Color-Analog-Ratio-Monitor/dp/B008P6DOIG

http://www.amazon.com/Thermoid-24088-Fuel-Line-Hose/dp/B000KKHNZU

http://www.amazon.com/Bando-6PK2170-Quality-Serpentine-Belt/dp/B000CB0KJS

http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-20805-Gauge-Single/dp/B000CMH9XW

http://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/detail.aspx?Item=6500-R

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmm-70239/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k1106/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-10105117/overview/make/chevrolet

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-94000

the shorter serpentine belt was needed after i removed the smog pump and not shown is the dart iron eagle heads i got on craigslist for a good deal, not everything in the build is there and some links might be bad though

as far as HP/Torque its in the 270-330HP range judging from racing against other cars in that power range