(Part 2) Best automotive replacement clutches & parts according to redditors

I had the same issue. The clutch pedal was broke and master cylinder was shot. Got a both on Amazon. Judging by the age of you car it is possible it is just the master cylinder. I got the rebuid kit and it was pretty straight forward. https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-CMK116394-Clutch-Master-Cylinder/dp/B001PYG6PS?keywords=rx8+clutch+master&qid=1536430333&sr=8-5&ref=mp_s_a_1_5

no doesnt look like it, less than 100$ USD..
https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KHC08-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/compatibility-chart/B001B5EEEQ

Your mechanic is almost certainly wrong. It's the slave cylinder, very common in Miatas.

Any idiot can do it for <$50. I actually just took mine off yesterday to regrease the pushrod (chirp, chirp). The first time I did this, it was on an NA with no jack in about 30 minutes. It's 2 bolts and wrestling with the stupid clutch hardline. (For the more mechanical: replacing that stupid coil assembly with a SS braided line makes life so much easier for many different things.)

Buy a slave, a 10mm FLARE NUT WRENCH for the hydraulic line, and some brake fluid.

Read this: http://www.miata.net/garage/slavecyl.html

If you have no sockets, you'll need to borrow a socket wrench, some extensions, and a short 12mm socket. The top mount bolt can be had easily with lots of extensions, the bottom requires the short socket and perhaps a little torquing from above. The hydraulic fitting will be on there pretty tight, use the right tool (flare nut wrench). Bleed the hell out of the system when you're done, instructions are in the Miata.net link.

95% chance of solving your problem, and worst case: you spent the equivalent of a decent datenight on expanding your personal skills.

Yes, this is the same one I have in my OBXT and it is holding stage 2 just fine. You can also buy it with the flywheel for $600. Any transmission shop will be able to install this clutch for ~$500, it doesn't have to be a subaru shop.

You can check which ECU you have(or swap it if need be) in 5 min. It's located under the passenger side kick panel, it's that small panel under the gloveback and right next to the door. If I recall correctly I think you should have a P2E ECU, there should be some kind of ID sticker on the ECU that will tell you this.

If this isn't the problem, two things to check are your ignition timing($50 or so at a shop) and the IACV(idle air control valve), disassembling and cleaning the IACV is relatively easy, I'd do this first as it's common for them to get dirty.

As far as clutch changes, I'd recommend an exedy kit, this is what Honda used for the oem clutches and will save you a bundle over buying parts at the dealer. Something like this should be fine: http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-08022-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DCO4/ref=au_pf_ss_1?ie=UTF8&Make=Honda%7C59&Model=Civic%7C752&Year=2000%7C2000&carId=002&n=15684181&s=automotive Then don't forget to have your flywheel resurfaced before you put it back together.

Hey there-- I had a 2000 Explorer Sport with a 5-speed. If yours is like mine was (and mine was identical to the 2000 Ranger) this might help. The shifter was stiff moving between gears, and sometimes I had to pump the clutch pedal to get it to move in or out of gear, especially when stopped.

The clutch is hydraulic.

The master cylinder is oriented in such a way that if the seals on the master cylinder piston are starting to fail, it has a tendency to pull air into the master cylinder, which gets trapped at the top of the piston, causing the clutch to get spongy and not fully disengage when you press the pedal all the way to the floor. Sometimes pumping it a few times will help temporarily, but it always comes back. You cannot bleed this bubble out of the system by pumping the clutch and using the bleeder screw.

This video shows the first thing I tried. It lets the air out of the top of the master cylinder without removing the cylinder from the car. It's awkward, difficult and messy. You'll want to cover the driver's side floor with a plastic trash bag and put something absorbent on top, like paper towels, to protect your carpet.

This worked for me... temporarily. IF THIS WORKED, chances are your master cylinder seals are going, which is why there was air in the system in the first place.

The permanent solution, for me, was to replace the master cylinder. It came complete with a fluid reservoir and the hydraulic line that goes all the way down to the quick-disconnect check valve at the slave cylinder on the clutch. It cost something like $65, and looks like this. Double-check to make sure that's the right one for your truck. When it arrived, I filled the system and did a full bench-bleed like this:

Ranger clutch bench bleed.

Hope this helps!

You're looking for a pulley holder tool.

https://www.amazon.com/LuK-05-107-Clutch-Set/dp/B000CI6YDW/

clutch parts are so cheap for a Civic, you are better off doing the flywheel along with the clutch kit.

LUK clutch kit

Sachs flywheel

But you might want to check with a local machine shop about getting the stock flywheel resurfaced.

Probably a bad outer axle bearing eating into the axle. You'll need an axle, a seal, a bearing, and you should probably replace this guy while you're at it.

If it's just leaking it's just a seal. If it's grinding it's a bad bearing.

Get this

http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-KSB04-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5EMS4/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Subaru%7C13&Model=Legacy%7C64&Year=2005%7C2005&carId=001&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive


Cheap and effective , resurface your flywheel and tell your friend he is stupid

The labor cost will probably be $500 or so, you either have to pull the engine or drop the transmission to do it. Don't let a shop sell you a cheap-o clutch though, get an OEM replacement: http://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-15010-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5E5XQ

Exedy makes the clutches for the car manufacturers.

Eh. I mean I guess that would work. I just like the 6 puck ones personally and that's what I would go with if I were to replace my clutch. The 6 puck ones are actually cheaper sometimes anyway. Here's a 6 puck for $315 and here's a 350Z OEM replacement for $364

EDIT: Well shit here's one for $220.

Exedy makes the OEM clutch so yup. Here it is for quite a good price I don't know who made the OEM clutch master and slave, I just ended up buying Beck Arnley ones.
EDIT: I should add that these are for the M2U4 ATTS equipped transmission from the Type SH. You'd have to check if they match the ones for the base model if that's what you have because the bases have a different transmission.

From what you described, your car is in need of a clutch replacement. A clutch replacement does not cost anywhere near $2k, in fact I just looked up the parts on Amazon and a clutch kit + flywheel + new tranny fluid is $146.
https://www.amazon.com/EXEDY-08014-OEM-Replacement-Clutch/dp/B001B5DC9O/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=Honda%7C59&Model=Accord%7C751&Year=1999%7C1999&ie=UTF8&n=15684181&newVehicle=1&s=automotive&vehicleId=10&vehicleType=automotive


Even though you say you're not handy, it's worth watching a few clutch videos on youtube so that you'll be somewhat informed when talking to the mechanic.

As a DIY mechanic, I could replace a clutch by myself in a day in the driveway as food for thought.

Good luck!

GEARWRENCH Fan Clutch Service Set - 41580D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NICENU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IK6xDbY0B6V6A

Something like this (depending on make/model of your vehicle) is designed to hold the pulley so you can turn the bolt. I'm not sure if this will help what you're doing, but check it out...