Best steering system according to redditors
We found 78 Reddit comments discussing the best steering system. We ranked the 39 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 78 Reddit comments discussing the best steering system. We ranked the 39 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Yep! It's cost me just over $5K including the wheel [$4K without]
My log album here
Build list Here
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | Purchased For $365.94
CPU Cooler | Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler | Purchased For $84.99
Motherboard | MSI Z97-GAMING 7 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | Purchased For $194.14
Memory | Kingston 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | Purchased For $174.99
Storage | Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $97.40
Storage | Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $254.29
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | Purchased For $104.98
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB Video Card | Purchased For $738.14
Case | Corsair Air 540 ATX Desktop Case | Purchased For $146.99
Power Supply | Corsair RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | Purchased For $124.99
Optical Drive | Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer | Purchased For $42.19
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | Purchased For $103.72
Monitor | Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor | Purchased For $267.49
Monitor | Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor | Purchased For $267.49
Monitor | Asus VG248QE 144Hz 24.0" Monitor | Purchased For $267.49
Monitor | LG 23EA53V-P 23.0" Monitor | Purchased For $157.49
Case Fan | NZXT Air Flow Series 83.6 CFM 140mm Fan | Purchased For $30.38
Case Fan | NZXT Air Flow Series 83.6 CFM 140mm Fan | Purchased For $30.38
Case Fan | Silverstone FHP-141 171.0 CFM 140mm Fan | Purchased For $14.43
Case Fan | NZXT FZ-120mm LED 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $22.72
Case Fan | NZXT FZ-120mm LED 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $22.72
Case Fan | NZXT FZ-120mm LED 59.1 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $22.72
Keyboard | Razer Blackwidow Ultimate 2013 Wired Gaming Keyboard | Purchased For $146.87
Mouse | Logitech G400s Wired Optical Mouse | Purchased For $62.98
Headphones | Astro A40 7.1 Channel Headset | Purchased For $120.00
Other| EVGA GTX 780 Ti Back Plate Cooling, 100-BP-2881-B9| Purchased For $38.26
Other| NVIDIA 3D Vision 2 Wireless Glasses Kit| Purchased For $142.99
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $4047.17
__
I will be doing a full water loop and this is that part list with the water cooling parts, 1.8K for that
This is the wheel
Standalone shifter
Ferrari F458 Wheel Add On
How much do you want to spend, and what are your priorities? Value? Performance? Authenticity and physical quality?
For $300-$400, the Thrustmaster TX or T300RS are the best on the market. The T300RS was recently on sale for $300, so you probably could find it soon again for that price. Both have the same base (T300RS is slightly revised), but the T300RS is Playstation branded and compatible, and has a wheel that many regard as superior to the stock TX Ferrari wheel. You can get a very similar replacement wheel for the TX for roughly ~$100. The T300RS is the wheel I'm planning on buying, and believe me, I did a lot of searching.
CS V2 costs $550 plus a wheel which will cost roughly $250-$350, plus shipping costs. You're looking at like $800-$900, two, to three times the cost of the TX/T300RS without taxes or shipping. Not to mention you need an invite.
The Fanatec Base and the Thrustmaster TX T300RS all have brushless servo motors and belt drives, and have that "Hall Effect" tech. T300RS has 1080 degrees of rotation which is more than the CSv2, but that's a minor point.
They are very close to the CSV2 mechanically. CSv2 has a higher quality fit and finish. Personally, I don't mind rubber on a wheel so the TX/T300RS are fine for me, and fit and finish isn't really noticeable while in a race, at least for me anyways, you're focusing on the car, not the wheel, lol. I don't even feel the wheel while in an intense race. The CSv2 may have a slight advantage mechanically, but I've done a lot of searching myself and folks who have owned both say the CSv2 is better, but it isn't twice as good as the TX/T300RS, despite its price, as the CSv2 costs 3x as much as a TX and 2x as much as a T300RS.
> "Clubsport feels better than the TX but it's not twice as good.... given the price difference. The TX is honestly a great base when you replace the standard rim.
> When I moved from G27 to TX the driving feel was dramatically improved. But switching from TX to Clubsport the best way to describe the feeling is its a more refined force feedback.
>
> My personal advice for TX owners... thinking about switching
>
> Step 1: Switch to clubsport V2 pedals
>
> Step 2: Replace standard rim with a real car wheel
>
> Step 3: Triple screens
>
> Step 4: Add Fanatec SQ shifter
>
> Step 5:- Only now "consider" buying clubsport base & rim
>
> As a TX owner you should know you have great wheel base with good force feedback."
> "I keep reading reviews from different people and basically yes the Clubsport equipment is definitely better looking and appears more substantial and built of superior materials (ie metal vs lots of plastic) but only a little better in performance.
> Even Darin Gangi stated more than once that when testing the Thrustmaster T3PA pedals they were getting same lap times as when using clubsport pedals. I guess you have to decide if look and feel is worth 2-3 times the price with little performance improvement."
(link)
TL;DR: For $300-$400 get a Thrustmaster Tx or T300RS. If you have an unlimited budget you can get a CSv2, but don't expect it to be 2 or 3x the wheel the Thrustmasters are...you're paying primarily for exclusivity and fit & finish. The CSv2 has the better build-quality no doubt, and if you want ultimate authenticity you could justify the cost, but at that point you're probably looking for an Accuforce anyways. But in terms of playability it's very close to the Thrustmasters.
The top-end Thrustmaster bases are perfectly comparable to the CSL, everyone in this thread seems to be thinking of the TS-PC / T-GT / TS-XW as equivalent to the T300 which just isn't at all true.
Pedal wise it's trickier as Thrustmaster don't offer a loadcell (though plenty of people would argue the T3PA brake mod makes that fairly superfluous, it's a pretty subjective thing and a lot of the time it's post-purchase rationalisation either way) - but you can always use Fanatec's pedals with Thrustmaster's base.
Just for the sake of (much) cheaper rims I'd personally go for a TS-PC instead of the CSL, even if I was using the Fanatec pedals. I'd either go for the TS-PC and add the 599XX or Sparco r383 rim, or the TS-XW by itself (though Thrustmaster are a bit weird with selling that one with the T3PAs) and then get the Fanatec CSL pedals.
That should be within your budget roughly
TS-PC Racer: $450
TM Sparco R383: $200
CSL Elite LC: $200
Or alternatively you could look at the 488 Challenge wheel which just came out which is a 9:10 scale replica (32cm diameter compared to the standard T300's 28cm) on the TS base, which oculd be very nice (but bumps up the price a decent amount - if you wanted a formula rim you'd probably have to get the Ferrari F1 which is a bit plasticky compared to the rest)
Edit: The caveat here is that if you think you might end up moving up to a Clubsport wheelbase there might be a reason to start investing in the Fanatec ecosystem regarding rims etc. but you're well into diminishing returns at this point and there's every chance that Thrustmaster keep on bringing out higher end wheels given their current trends with the 488 Challenge/TS-XW/T-GT etc.
Any double din will fit, but you will have space on the sides. Im not too sure about other years but I know the 2017 brz has a trapezoidal shaped head unit.
There is one headunit that will fill in the gaps. I cannot remember what its called atm.
Edit: Also you will need to either create a harness or buy one. I have this one and its completely plug n play. If you want your steering wheel controls to work youll need one of these. This is exactly what I have and it is super easy to use, once you figure out the vague instructions.
Edit2: my link to the harness doesnt seem to be going through. www.autoharnesshouse.com/67122.html
Edit3: The stock units are 200mm.
Yes. I have a pioneer w4400nex in my 2018 wrx base model. Great headunit with wireless CarPlay. It’s relatively plug and play with a harness from autoharnesshouse. Here are all the links:
AutoHarnessHouse Aftermarket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GD8627K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Direct wire harness for Pioneer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GBDRVX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Maestro ADS-MSW Universal Analog Steering Wheel Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J4W10XG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Jg22Db6PFF6R1
Need this to connect FM radio to new Headunit:
Aftermarket Radio Antenna Adapter by Vehicle Aerial Stereo Converter Cable, DIN (Motorola Type) to Antenna Terminal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNL9QQ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7l22DbVWFF1K2
Need this if you want to retain factory USB port:
Metra Electronics AX-SUBUSB Multicolored Subaru 2011 & Up 4-Pin USB Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JYTLW14/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_do22DbN1SNNSH
This is the dash kit to make the headunit fit properly:
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_142SU2031B/Scosche-SU2031B-Dash-Kit-Gloss-Black.html
Those are all the harnesses/wires you’ll need to make it plug and play. The USB adapter might not work if your car has 2 USB ports in the center console. This shouldn’t be a problem anyways since CarPlay is wireless. The USB ports will still charge your phone regardless. If you have the base wrx, it’ll be fine. On YouTube there are plenty of install vids if you ever feel confused.
Edit: the guy from autoharnesshouse (Brian) is also very friendly if you have any questions about the harness, just email him.
Get an upgraded steering stabilizer. The stock part is absolute junk and will get very wobbly within 30,000 miles. I bought a Fox 2.0 stabilizer and it's fantastic both on and off road. I will not be lifting my 2017 Lariat but will be adding Fox shocks when the Ranchos go.
https://www.amazon.com/Fox-985-24-001-FOX-Steering-Stabilizer/dp/B01E405RKE
Thrustmaster TX is a fantastic starting wheel for Xbox One. It has an interchangeable rim system so he can have multiple rims for different games. Theres a good Ferrari F1 Replica Rim for this base that would work perfectly.
Amazon!
LR Universal 14" steering wheel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07796Z774?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Closest F1 racing wheel i can find to look as cool as you... http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005PPOBQE?cache=26d6c035f6b2fa71a03ed4444678ada9&pi=SX200_QL40&qid=1405227562&sr=8-1#ref=mp_s_a_1_1 ....is the Shift meter functional on yours?
This was a year ago and I’ve done a few upgrades since then. This is a write-up with some links for those interested in it. Hopefully this wall of info might be useful to someone looking to do what I’ve done. It is a headache and a half along with hours of time just trying to find straightforward info for modding these trucks.
Full specs: 2018 TRD ORP w/ KDSS. Bilstein 6112 2.4” lift (5/5 clip settings for KDSS) & 5160 rear shocks. Eibach ProLift rear springs 1”(note: the KDSS models sit about a .5”-1” lower up front in stock.) Super bump kit. OME rear Right 10mm trim packer for lean correction. 275/70/17 KO2 tires. Stock OR Rims. JBA high caster UCAs. Tyger Auto TG-AM2T20148 side steps (for the little wife, to mitigate the tires flinging rocks at the paint and they also help with parking lot door dings)
Lights: The LEDs are Nineo Gen2 for H11 and 9005. It was around $100 total from amazon. They are identical to the Supernova v.4. So if you’re thinking of those, save your money with these.
The DRLs do work fine, believe it or not, and the flicker when in DRL mode is BARELY noticeable and looks kinda cool imo, it’s $50 vs $180 for xenon depots, and I don’t think XDs are $130 better imo. They also do dim. I’ll post more pics and a video of the flicker later when I get the headlights adjusted. If you still can’t stand the flicker the XD LEDs with the DRL driver is the way to go or you can just shut off the DRL mode completely without messing with other lighting functions, this is also a warranty safe and non-permanent solution as you can just push the wire back in if you decide to change your mind. (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5-lFBDFjs4VOUtFN2RETDJPd0E/view)
Xenon Depot 9005 LED kit w/ DRL module: https://www.xenondepot.com/9005-Xtreme-LED-kit-pro-p/xt-led-9005-pro.htm
Nineo GEN2 9005: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JCSRS7H/
Katana H11(the Nineo looks sold out, but these are the other identical brand): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078W5WJZ2/
Fog Lights, Yellow LED, installing today along with a yellow film, will post pics later: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F9S49GP/
Lamin-x Yellow Film: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P2EZFI/
Rubbing, death wobble and suspension: The only rubbing I have is on the front mudflaps at full lock, might modify or just remove flaps completely. No rub on UCAs or body mount.
For grease I use Valvoline VV615, if you go JBA, I highly recommend this 90 degree grease adapter. No mess and super easy. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000G76OMA/
Or you could replace the straight zerk fittings with 45-90 degree zerk fittings.
The rear right OME trim packer that corrected the lean also fixed the steering wheel death wobble some may experience after a lift. So for this particular case I’ll attribute it to a suspension geometry problem. If you still experience the wobble after lean correction there is a bushing to replace the spider bearing in the front left differential, made by ECGS. it’s about $170 for the full install kit with a new cv axle seal. I highly recommend either of these if you’re are finding yourself getting your wheels balanced way more than you should be.
OME 10mm Trim Packer: https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-25490059-rear-trim-packer-for-2003-4runner-2007-fj-cruiser-150pr10.html
ECGS bushing kit: https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/i-8536125-toyota-8-clamshell-bushing-eliminates-needle-bearing.html
Bilstein 6112 Front Assembly with standard coilovers: https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-26910006-bilstein-6112-height-adjustable-front-strut-set-for-2010-4runner-47-259768-or-47-281202.html
Bilstein 5160 rear shocks with oil reservoir: https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-25489698-bilstein-5160-remote-reservoir-rear-shock-set-for-2003-4runner-2007-fj-cruiser-25-227611-x2.html
JBA STD High Caster UCAs: https://jbaoffroad.com/jba-std-high-caster-upper-a-arms-for-toyota-tacoma-05-plus-4runner-03-plus-fj-cruisers-07-plus.html
Super Bump Kit: https://wheelersoffroad.com/i-25490332-wheelers-front-superbump-bumpstop-set-for-2005-tacoma-2003-4runner-2007-fj-cruiser-2007-tundra-01superbumpkit.html
DIY lift info that helped me:
If you want to lift your KDSS 5th gen 4Runner: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/154230-how-lift-installation-kdss-equipped-vehicles.html
How to install new UCAs on your 4Runner: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/237425-4th-5th-gen-upper-control-arm-uca-install-write-up.html
Information pit #1: Toyota-4Runner.org
Information pit #2: 4runners.com
Other useful sites: tacomaworld.com, tacomaforum.com, tundratalk.net
trail4runner.com(review site, decent tutorials)
Yes, exactly like the normal DC game. ( btw, the wheel setup / rotation is exactly the same between in-game and real-life )
I did personally tested both DC and DC VR with a wheel from an amazon tryout ( T300RS + Ferrari F1 Wheel Add-on ) with the Renault RS01 and it was really immersive, unfortunately, I wasn't able to be as fast as I should with the wheel, so I didn't bough it.
Any of the Thrustmaster wheels should work on it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014US048A/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_1_w
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-F458-Wheel-playstation-3/dp/B00CP4IKHE/ref=sr_1_50?srs=2530623011&ie=UTF8&qid=1521061859&sr=8-50
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TM-Leather-Wheel-Add-pc/dp/B00TTQKSUS/ref=sr_1_56?srs=2530623011&ie=UTF8&qid=1521061859&sr=8-56
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Sparco-Rally-Wheel-Add-383/dp/B0764415FS/ref=sr_1_1?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1521061911&sr=1-1&keywords=sparco+thrustmaster
If you want cheaper, maybe someone will sell your their 458 rim from the TX regular package or something.
Sunsong 3401231 Power Steering Pressure Line Hose Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014XEQ5K2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ajhGDbP7FD6XD
That’s the one I got and it’s still holding til today.
The dash kit for your car ALONE is almost $300:
PAC RPK4-HD1101
Bonus points is it comes with the radio harness and SWC is built in.
Metra makes one with rubber buttons that's gross and I hate it because it's terrible and bad but might be found cheaper.
I SUPPOSE you could do the pocket replacement kit:
Metra 95-7862
But it looks ril bad and the factory radio just kinda sits there and looks dumb.
As far as radios for your budget? Alpine iLX-W650
Does what you want, none of what you don't. Add the install parts and a new SXM tuner and you're off.
Wanna do it cheap AND keep SWC: Maestro SW
And still need the wiring harness to the car, I wanna say Metra 1721? Don't quote me.
I got thrusmaster:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014US043A/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TTQKSUS/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00UVN21IU/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I really like it. I considered logitech in the beginning but then went with thrustmaster because a lot of people said it felt like a toy and there was a deadzone.
I would use this steering wheel control module. User programmable double function for all buttons and better customer support.
If you're thinking of this, then I don't THINK that's the issue. I had to change one on a 2012 Sonata, and there was a little bit of play in the steering wheel before it hit the metal teeth that this coupler goes between. On my car, it feels solid, and feels like the noise is being transferred up the steering wheel from components under the hood.
was thinking of getting this wheel
https://www.amazon.ca/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Racing-Wheel-T500/dp/B005PPOBQE/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=f1+race+wheel&qid=1572317349&sr=8-1
I used these, bought from Amazon.
Prothane 6-106-BL Black Body and Cab Mount Bushing Kit - 12 Piece
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AVWYPK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Perfect fit for my 94 xlt 4x4. Someday I'll use the rest of the bushings because it's not like the originals are in great shape.
The thing is these are just the bushings. The hardware to attach them is bizarre, expensive and probably rusted solid in your rig.
I cut out the old bushings, used these replacements and built my own mounting solution using grade 8 bolts.
You can buy new hardware from LMC but it's like $100 for each bushing.
Here you go. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FMOJ1TO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is what car installers use to hook up steering wheel controls to the head units.
http://amzn.com/B00J4W10XG
The kit appears to be universal... so if you don't have steering wheel controls built in... with this you should be able to wire switches/knobs in and program them pretty easily.
My dealer called and said the car is ready and the factory radio is in the car and there are no issues with remote start. So I’ll run with this for a while to see if I have any issues with remote start again.
I called idatalink support again and asked about the OBD2 port causing this issue. They now say that it is possible that having remote start and the maestro on the ODB2 port both talking to the car can cause issues. But none that would blow a fuse. I asked if I just unplugged that would I eliminate this issue. They said maybe but unplugging the OBD2 plug will not allow the backup camera to work. I definitely need the backup camera to work.
I might buy the harnesses that auto harness house makes for Subaru and use those because they have a harness that gets power for the rear camera from some other pin on the factory harness. I’d then need the maestro SW not the RR for steering wheel controls but at least I’d not be using the maestro OBD2 plug anymore. I don’t care about the data it provides to the screen anyway.
Pioneer to Subaru harness - https://autoharnesshouse.com/AHH-70-1761.html
Subaru 28 pin harness with voltage step down for reverse camera - https://autoharnesshouse.com/49021b.html
Maestro SW - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4W10XG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Or maybe I just return the pioneer head unit and get a Sony that has steering wheel controls built in and does not need a Maesto at all. They don’t have HD Radio though which I really would miss.
I personally don't see an advantage just 180 more degrees of rotation.
You could get a servo base like this one and a wheel like this or the TMX and not use the pedals it comes with.
How are you guys setting up the wheel? I tried using an f1 wheel at 270 Degrees and just couldn't make it work. I picked up an Alcantara specifically for Dirt rally what degree are most of you using?.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GD8627K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the harness i used, has the reverse 6v signal already to go. all you need us usb retention https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DJ4KVQ6/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
then the speaker harness. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002BEQJ8/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and lastly the antenna harness https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003VYWSES/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
these were all the things i used to wire in my kenwood. besides the tool to keep steering wheel buttons https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J4W10XG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
the autoharnesshouse harness makes it easy to use the maestro by the way. hope this helped. i have a 2017 wrx by the way so i dont know if there is a difference with 2015 and the new 2018+s
From memory/Amazon history, here's what I installed:
I went with the prothane kit
Ride feels objectively better, although I only replaced the bushings that were completely rotten yesterday, the passenger front radiator support and passenger side front cross cab support, the rest of the bushings are still in okay condition, and plan to change them as time permits.
I had a huge issue with "crashing" on hard bumps, and it turned out due to the lower bushing missing on the aformentioned corners, the cab would lift then fall back down on the frame rails, causing a pretty harsh ride quality.
Parts alone will be like $70 including steering wheel controls, specifically this. Not sure of any new, known brands that are less than 250 for a touchscreen.
I agree I could get an O and the f1 wheel if I really wanted that might not be a bad idea (but still a bit expensive), still don't know to much about what I want to do yet.
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Wheel-Add-PC-6304300-x/dp/B005PPOBQE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541390442&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=thrustmaster+f1+rim&dpPl=1&dpID=51F1C0xlyxL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-F458-Wheel-playstation-3-x/dp/B00CP4IKHE/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541390399&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=thrustmaster+ferrari+rim&dpPl=1&dpID=51GeLsKQWdL&ref=plSrch
/u/ghostridercool
Here's the list of all the parts he mentioned, with MSRP
3.5 inch Rock Krawler X-Factor lift - $1800
https://www.extremeterrain.com/rock-krawler-35in-xfactor-lift-kit-0717-4door.html
Bilstein shocks - $200
https://www.extremeterrain.com/bilstein-5160-series-4r-jk-25-229745.html
37 inch Goodyear Wrangler MTR Kevlar tires - $2000
https://www.amazon.com/Goodyear-Wrangler-Kevlar-Radial-37X12-50R17LT/dp/B004QL66VQ
Black rhino wheels - $880
https://www.extremeterrain.com/black-rhino-tanay-matte-black-graphite-wheels-0718-jk.html
Flip link steering kit - $300
https://www.amazon.com/EVO-1071-Drag-Link-Flip-Steering/dp/B00TEA2CYE
5.13 gears - $300
https://www.extremeterrain.com/yukon-gear-rear-d44-513-jk-ygd44jk513rub.html
Synergy Ball joints and C-gussets - $100
https://www.amazon.com/Synergy-Manufacturing-8012-02-Gusset-Kit/dp/B00HNGBST6
Front and rear Adams Driveshafts - $1000
http://www.adamsdriveshaftoffroad.com/jk-front-rear-1310-or-1350-driveshaft-package/adams-driveshaft-jk-front-rear-1310-cv-driveshaft-package-with-spicer-solids-extreme-duty-series/
RCV Chromoly front axle shafts - $1400
https://www.rcvperformance.com/ultimate-dana-30-30t-cv-axle-set-for-jeep-jk.html
Chromoly Ten Factory axle shafts in rear - $400
https://www.northridge4x4.com/part/axle-shafts/mg22157-ten-factory-rubicon-dana-44-axle-kit-rear
Dana 44 axle housing - $1000
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-JK-J8-HD-Rubicon-Dana-44-Front-Axle-Housing-/232263615965
Shorty front bumper - $600
https://www.extremeterrain.com/lod-offroad-destroyer-shorty-front-bumper-w-bull-bar-0717-jk.html
Q9500 winch - $300
https://www.quadratec.com/products/92122_1200_07.htm
Ace heavy duty rear bumper w/tire carrier - $1150
http://www.aceengineeringandfab.com/ACE-JK-Pro-Series-Rear-Bumper-with-Tire-Carrier_p_83.html
Flat fender kit - $300
https://www.extremeterrain.com/smittybilt-xrc-fender-flares-jk-76837.html
Trek Armor front seat covers - $300
https://www.ebay.com/i/132527423999?chn=ps&dispItem=1
Superchips Programmer - $200
https://www.extremeterrain.com/superchips-flashcal-f5-1216-3571.html
Total - $12230
I hear they are a great vendor and are really helpful when setting up your wheel. In fact, I ordered one (SW20+) myself and it will be here next week some time. Communication leading up to shipping has been great.
If you're interested in options; I got an inexpensive (~$80) wheel from motamec and built my own wheel button box. It's currently on a T300 base but It will bolt onto a DD. Next I plan on getting a Sport Line rim and maxing a second box. If you want a button box I can provide some links to commercial options and I'm sure others can provide recommendations as well.
Selling the following:
Thrustmaster TX Wheel Ferrari 458 Italia Edition
http://www.thrustmaster.com/en_US/products/tx-racing-wheel-ferrari-458-italia-edition
Thrustmaster TM Leather 28 GT Wheel add on
https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-TM-Leather-Wheel-Add-pc/dp/B00TTQKSUS
Both for $225 + shipping (US only)
I can try to take some pics of it tonight and post it here
sure. and IM no engineer but its seems like if you put a dampener on the steering neck that prevents the wheel from sharply turning left or right you would at a minimum eliminate the modulation at speed.
something like This comes to mind
$70-90 kit and parts - do it yourself and catch up on a few YouTube videos on how. The Alpha 1 is pretty easy to work on. Mercruiser Alpha One Gen 1 Transom Repair Kit Seals Bearing Bellows 30-803097T1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D4QP9GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_E-QFDbHMCZK06
Easy weekend project with a buddy and hand tools - https://youtu.be/PU7rUhVw3QY
Good read too -
http://www.sterndrive.info/sterndriveparts/u_joint_bellows_install.html
Might as well do the impeller on the lower unit while you’re at it too.
You can buy the T300 Base for $244 from Amazon plus your choice of wheel like the Ferrari 599XX EVO Wheel Add-On, Alcantara Edition for $165, the TM Leather 28 GT for $150 or the Ferrari GTE F458 for $130 or you could listen to /u/isternes and go Fanatec for a few dollars more.
Nex2300
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073BKPWNC/
With this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J4W10XG/
Over your budget, but this is a real wheel that's similar to the Mod30 (320mm) but slightly smaller at 300mm, and $75ish cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/Sport-Line-Racing-Steering-Wheel/dp/B00EBGHRT6
I’m not actually too much of a fan of my current Momo wheel... I’m eyeing up this one
https://www.amazon.com/PRH35BK2B-Steering-Prototype-Heritage-Leather/dp/B076VTV3FK
This is what I just installed on my 94’. It’s pretty easy just remember they are bolts not studs that go through so you have to pull the carpet up to access the top of the bolts
Prothane 6-106-BL Black Body and Cab Mount Bushing Kit - 12 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AVWYPK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CAT7CbAVMPE1K
You can get this Boss Adapter, this Leadrise Quick Release adapter, and then whatever steering wheel of your choice.
Grand total: $750
It's really not that far off when you consider that Fanatec is broadly considered higher quality than Thrustmaster. I was ready to go all-in on Thrustmaster before I added it all up and realized I might as well keep saving and get the Fanatec stuff.
*ETA: Just to clear up confusion these are the repairs as quoted to me: Tail light - $242 Rack and Pinion - $876 Power Steering Pump - $342 Power Steering Flush - $119 2 front tires - $282 Alignment - $89 Wiper blades - $25 (would just replace myself).
That's $2000 to replace this and this. I don't see it.
Pretty sure he's using this with this.
Don’t have an answer on the ball joint but this may be of some interest to you
Lincoln Lubrication 5883 Slotted Right Angle 90 Degree Coupler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000G76OMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cxiyDbNKB0BHK
For the BP. Been out for a minute. Don’t know if they fit the AWD.
H&R 28663-1 Lowering Springs Mazda 3 Hatchback 2WD 2019-FA30/RA30mm
http://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-Ferrari-Wheel-Add-On-PC-6304300/dp/B005PPOBQE