Best automotive wheel bearing greases according to redditors

If anything you have says food grade, you're most likely set.

This stuff is the best, and it'll last you forever..

http://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Molykote-Grease-Lubricant/dp/B0141NIS8M

This stuff also works, but washes away more quickly.

http://www.amazon.com/McGlaughlin-Oil-Petrol-Gel-Lubricant-4oz/dp/B01G5Y9Y7E

It's for sure expensive for so seemingly few applications, but you can really use this stuff everywhere. Doorknobs, squeaky hinges, tools, bicycles, etc...

As for the frequency of cleaning...

Since you are all stainless, it makes cleaning frequency kind of a contentious topic... The Brewer's Association currently advocates for every two weeks, but through commercial applications to hobby level, with stainless/vinyl contact, up to a four week interval can be permissible.. Especially on a direct draw system such as yours.

What would probably be most convenient, would be to clean every keg change using a little hand pump bottle like this:

http://www.micromatic.com/beer-line-cleaning-kits-and-equipment/deluxe-beer-line-cleaning-ck-1100

Super easy to use.. Remove the faucet and coupler, pack the lines with the cleaning solution and soak for 45 minutes. Use the leftover chemical from the soak to brush the faucets and couplers clean.. Rinse, reassemble, and your done.

You do have another option...

Some people opt to never clean, and instead just replace the length of line every few months. The coupler and faucets would still need to soaked and brushed, but using John Guest (push-to-connect) terminations, changing lines becomes fairly trivial.

A $25 dollar 100ft roll of barrier tubing would last you several replacements, and it will remain cleaner longer. The big drawback with barrier is that it more susceptible to kinking than vinyl is.. But it is better for the beer, and perfectly suited to your application. And you won't need any overpriced, questionable quality cleaning equipment... Just unplug the line, coil it up, and soak it.

https://www.freshwatersystems.com/p-2502-john-guest-female-adapter-bspp-516-x-58-bspp.aspx

These fittings would attach to your couplers and and shanks, and just as before, you would use ~6ft of 3/16" ID barrier to get about 12psi of restriction. I don't know this website, but Accuflex's Bevlex 235 is the stuff I'd recommend.

http://www.birdmanbrewing.com/accuflex-bev-seal-ultra-barrier-tubing-3-16-id-100ft-free-shipping/?gclid=CIDbk8OPj80CFUpahgodKNYITA

What's also cool about using a quick connect line, is that it simplifies pouring a larger range of carbonation levels and styles.

Say you want to put something on with a higher volume of Co2, let's say 3.0 v/v... To maintain carbonation at 38º, now you need you set your gauge to 17 psi. Your flow rate will now cause turbulent pouring since you only have ~12 psi of restriction.. A net 5 psi positive pressure will pour too fast. How can we fix it?

Just plug in a 8' length of line instead of 6', and you've balanced out the system.

Or maybe you have a barleywine or stout that you don't want to drink at 38ºF... At 2.5 v/v and 38ºF, you need about 12 psi of straight Co2. That same beer stored at 50ºF would need 18 psi to maintain 2.5 v/v, or it would de-gas and foam like crazy. With that badass controller you bought, adjusting the serving temperature is an option available to you.

You might be seeing flow control (restrictor) style faucets more prevalent these days.. As beer styles come out with greater ranges of carbonation, bars and restaurants can't just hack their system open to add/subtract a few feet of line, but the system still requires the restriction be dialed in to operate efficiently. So they restrict at the faucets because they can't restrict at the lines. Pretty neat..

Junky establishments won't care sometimes, and will potentially let the beer go flat using a lower (incorrect) pressure to get more manageable flow rate... Basically saying F you to the people that worked hard to make it. It's whack.

Enjoy your setup... I get super excited seeing people do this stuff right! That setup you built is going to make some people very happy.

Enough to last the next generation or two.

same i use it with out an issue

https://www.amazon.com/Sta-Lube-Marine-Trailer-Bearings-14-Ounce/dp/B000KKLLPS

I was motivated by the recent thread with the X rated pics of the frame, so this weekend I spent quite a lot of time inspecting the bike everywhere with a flashlight for rust (owned less than 1 year). As someone who leaves a puddle on the floor after a workout, it only made sense that had to leave impact on steel. While Peloton suggests you to wipe down the bike after a ride, the places where most people would clean, such as the large smooth surface areas, may keep the bike looking good but are actually not problem areas. The problem is everywhere you miss--seat bolt and the threads on the frame, connectors, the gap to the shaft on the left pedal, the bolt and opening where the cover on the right meets the frame, underside of frame where the welds are, outer pedal threads, metal screws, etc. For the seat handle, not only were the threads in bad shape, but also I could see rust on the front and back of the handle where it meets the bolt. Basically, the more I looked for rust, the more I found. Left untreated for a few years, I think it would have evolved into bigger problems down the road.

I used Ospho on many of the painted parts and the bolts and let it sit for a day. Getting to some parts required something like a toothpick or a dental tool with the paper towel scrap to scrub. Ospho (HD equivalent here) makes rust inert and preps it for painting, then used a touch up brush and applied some black rustoleum paint to the painted areas. Then I used white lithium grease(spray) to protect all the moving parts and bolts, and even into the seat handle. To protect the underbelly of the frame where the welds are, I'm tempted to apply some stickier grease like Red and Tacky to completely seal those areas from sweat and air after now that the paint has dried, because it is not an area that can be easily and properly cleaned every time. Going forward I'll be looking it over much more frequently.

that bike's bearings are likely in great shape, but dry. the original schwinn bearings are better than any modern (chinese) replacements you can buy, other than NOS schwinn parts found on ebay.

i think the biggest problem you're going to have with that particular bike, as a novice, is the brake and derailleur removal, replacement, and adjustment. not impossible, but they can be problematic.

the best way to clean the bearings before repacking them is to soak them overnight or longer in a can of carburetor cleaner. then pack them with actual wheel bearing grease.

schwinn-specific tires are required. tubes are interchangeable, but tires are not.

What makes bicycle grease special is the bicycle-themed containers and large mark-up.

Here's what I've been using for the last few years:

http://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL78241-Timken-Premium-Bearing/dp/B006K8VIAM

And I still have like 80% left of that $5 container.

Do throughly clean out the old grease as much as possible and try to avoid mixing greases, they are not all compatible.

Sorry I was not talking about their oil I was talking about Mobil one synthetic grease. Like https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-Synthetic-Grease-oz-102481/dp/B00U1TLXC4

I have been trying hi-temp wheel bearing grease for six months and have been very happy so far. For $5-10 you can get a 16 oz tub that will outlast your rifle. I like it because it does not evaporate like aerosolized lubricants after months in storage and it does not burn off like most firearm oils.

There is some debate in the forums about whether greases containing graphite could potentially accelerate corrosion within the receiver but you can easily find synthetic greases without it. I am using the Mag 1 grease and have not noticed any corrosion so far, and it does contain graphite.

https://www.amazon.com/Mag-720-High-Temp-Bearing-Grease/dp/B0077K8WJC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473301961&sr=8-1&keywords=wheel+bearing+grease

https://www.amazon.com/Allstar-ALL78241-Timken-Premium-Bearing/dp/B006K8VIAM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1473301961&sr=8-4&keywords=wheel+bearing+grease

Mine's significantly quieter with some grease. Got a lb of it for like $8 years ago.

I just use Mag 1 grease and it’s worked extremely well in handguns and rifles. And wicked cheap.

Check the manual and parts guide and get some Dow 33 grease. And the maintenance is easy. There's YouTube videos on it. Basically just clean and re-grease the o-rings between each day of play.

As others have said just go with DOW 33......you can find a giant tube of it on Amazon under Dow Corning Molykote 33. Or this link : http://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Molykote-Grease-Lubricant/dp/B0141NIS8M/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1450356580&sr=8-2-fkmr1&keywords=dow+33+mo

I shoot and tech the vanquishes and luxes for my team and bought a single tube of this 2+ yrs ago and I still have a ton left.

high temp grease will last a long time

I have (less of a problem now) sticky bearing on my bed. I took the rod out and repacked the bearing with the stuff below.

What shocked me more about this goop was the harmonic I was getting on my Y axis as the belt was rubbing against the plate. I lubed up the side of the bet and that noise/harmonic went away. I had tried everything including constant tensioning of the belt and bolts of the stepper. It was seriously driving me nuts (and the wife) due to the noise. Now whisper quiet..

http://www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-Performance-Multi-Purpose-Synthetic/dp/B002KCWWFC

Any high temp grease will work for sure, as everyone said Lubriplate 130a is the original stuff and I have some.

If you want to save money this works great as well https://www.amazon.com/Mag-723-High-Temp-Bearing-Grease/dp/B002GK642K/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3W4V77MF90EKA9ZRGE0G

They sell it at walmart for cheaper some brands might label it as "Red 'n Tacky" but its much cheaper and works great. Its got all the rust inhibitors and stays where you put it. I mean think about the last time you changed the wheel bearing grease in your car....

Point is dont get caught up buying expensive grease. Automotive grease is made for much harsher conditions than that of a firearm and will work pretty damn well.

I am building my first mech keyboard today, and I have purchased GMK screw in stabs. I have heard that lubing them is a really good idea, and some people have suggested dielectric grease, but all I have around the house is this stuff. Any idea if it would work? (If no one knows I'll just buy some lube that the community recommends.) Thanks in advance for any insight!

I'm in the same boat - mine arrives today from CMP - so I've been doing the same as you.

I got this book from Amazon, and it's proven to be a good resource for me while I've been waiting for my rifle.

One thing you'll need for sure is grease to lubricate all the rotating parts. After doing a bit of research, I arrived at this grease off Amazon.

You'll of course need ammo and enbloc clips. CMP is also the best/cheapest source of both of those, so add that to your order for the bayonet.

Finally this website is another good resource.

Enjoy your rifle!!