(Part 2) Best bike pedals according to redditors

I am a member of the First United Church of Chesters. May their light shine upon you, and your shins be never bitten.

Here ya go. https://www.amazon.com/RaceFace-Chester-Mountain-Bike-Pedal/dp/B01EONZSAA
The main body is like a composite nylony thing but the pegs are metal and that's what really matters. Mine never slip.

Use a mountain style (2 bolt) pedal and cleat, so you can use the same shoe for both bikes. That will also allow more choice of shoes, easier walking, and the pedals are typically cheaper.

I always thought the pedals with a flat side were pretty annoying because you seem to "wrong" side when you put your foot down more often than not. If you absolutely have to have a pedal that works with street shoes and clips in, try these:

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M545-Downhill-Clipless-Pedal/dp/B000XNXUUG

Otherwise, I like BMX flat pedals. These are a significant upgrade to plastic test ride pedals that come on most bikes in terms of stiffness and grip. You might find this is more practical for your commuter:

http://www.amazon.com/Wellgo-Alloy-Sealed-Mountain-16-Inch/dp/B00E7UZ6I0/ref=sr_1_13?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1397418488&sr=1-13&keywords=bmx+pedals

>http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M545-Downhill-Clipless-Pedal/dp/B000XNXUUG

I wouldn't recommend those for riding any distance in normal shoes as the clip mechanism is by necessity proud of the platform.

My brother used to have M545s on his hybrid but got rid of them for that reason he's much happier with the M324 pedals he switched to instead. Getting the wrong side some of the time when you set off is preferable to having no right side. The new [A530 looks even better](http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1397424911&sr=1-2&keywords=shimano+hybrid+pedals
) with a really nice big platform on the clip free side.

Personally I'd go for Time Allroad Grippers because I like the float atac pedals give you.

Look silly shouldn't be much of a concern. Get what is effective for her and maybe effective for the future goal of going clipless.

I would just buy some cheap plastic BMX style pedals that comes with straps like fixed gear riders use. They're cheap and effective, you can start her with no straps, throw the straps on once she's comfortable, then once she has straps down she will have a mentality more ready for going clipless.

https://www.amazon.com/Retrospec-Bicycles-BMX-Style-Platform-Freestyle/dp/B00DPD5B9E/

Unless you're racing, I'd stick with your SPD pedals. A lot of roadies say that regular SPD doesn't spread the load well, but there are pedals that do that using the SPD interface, which have multiple versions up to the XTR level. There are also single-sided SPD pedals with Ultegra-level parts, though they have an 'unusable' side like SPD-SL pedals.

Just making sure here, but you've got a helmet right? It's nice to have a nice helmet, but use whatever you have. I find the basic Giro helmets to be plenty good enough, haven't gotten a concussion or anything yet. https://www.amazon.com/Giro-Fixture-Sport-Helmet-MATTE/dp/B075RN86Z7/ref=sr_1_15?dchild=1&qid=1574830300&refinements=p_89%3AGiro&s=outdoor-recreation&sr=1-15

Kneepads and gloves can be useful. I prefer riding without gloves, but have cut up my hands pretty bad on plants and the like when crashing. It's getting colder here though, so gloves are becoming less optional if I don't want frozen hands. I've also bashed the shit out of my knees before, I should really get some kneepads.

Do you have a way to carry water and your stuff when biking? I use a Camelback and love it https://www.camelbak.com/en/packs/bike . Don't worry about getting a fancy one, it's a backpack. An off brand one on amazon with decent reviews will do ya just fine.

5.10 's are the best shoes https://www.rei.com/product/872539/five-ten-freerider-mountain-bike-shoes-mens , but if you're just starting out a pair of tennis shoes/trainers is fine. Vans are also really good shoes, they stick to the pedals but aren't stiff like the 5.10's are. Way better than tennis shoes though, and some people prefer them to 5.10's because they bend.

A good pair of pedals isn't a bad idea. This one is all personal opinion, I run these bad boys https://www.raceface.com/products/details/chester-pedals . There's also a knockoff of them on Amazon for $20, and they work great. https://www.amazon.com/FOOKER-Composite-Mountain-High-Strength-Bikesflat/dp/B07L5RF5CW

Does the bike come with a dropper post? Cause those are awesome.

That's all I can think of. You're probably going to want to learn to fix your bike and buy the tools you need as things break. A multitool for bikes is a good starting point. The Allen keys on the tool let you adjust all sorts of stuff on the bike. You're going to need some kind of pump to keep the tires inflated. Some people are probably going to disagree with me here, but I really like doing all the work on a broken bike myself. Saves a good chunk of change.

That's all I can think of. Good luck and send it.

Been riding VP Vice pedals for the past few months. Big, thin, super grippy on sneakers. Expensive, but very nice.

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Components-VP-Vice-Pedals-Pack/dp/B006ZH1J5W

I've been riding clipless for a long time and just made the move to flats to try them out again. While I feel that I was more efficient with clipless, I find that my riding style has changed quite a bit. Doing less long, XC style rides and more shorter, technical rides.

The clipless would make me feel less confident during technical sections due to the time to unclip and reclip. So in a way the flats have made my rides fun as I don't have to constantly worry about falling over.

Only thing I have to get used to is foot placement. The pedals are so grippy that I pretty much have to get foot placement right the first time I set my foot down as they don't allow for sliding my foot around on the pedal. But that is just something to get used to as grip is good.

I'm using the VP Components, btw

1. I don't think so, but it's a cost thing. You can get a good aluminum frame + carbon fork for ~2-300, a carbon frame will be at least double that. Could also get a decent quality crmo grame for <200. You don't gain a whole lot of weight, and you get the comfort and dependability of steel.
   
   
2. Again, just depends on budget.
   
   
3. Weight isn't as huge a factor on flat ground, so more people prefer steel with track than they do with road bikes. For the regular reasons: comfort, reliability.
   
   4)Changing out the rear cog is the quickest way, takes me maybe 15 minutes. You would need a chainwhip/lockring wrench. The one I use: (http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Sprocket-Remover-Pedal-Wrench/dp/B005D9J45K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415907750&sr=8-1&keywords=sunlite+chain+whip)

I own the Shimano M530s. I love them and they are $40.

Wellgo MG-1 and Odyssey Twisted BMX pedals in come in white. Might not be quite what you are looking for though. The Odyssey are well regarded as BMX pedals (I have them on my 24" cruiser), but they are all plastic. The Wellgo have metal pins and seem well reviewed, but I've never used them.

Correct. Using these for the time being. I have a clipless set on order which should be arriving next week!

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Aluminum-Platform-Replaceable-Anti-slip/dp/B006ZH1H7M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1534681759&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=VP+Vice&dpPl=1&dpID=51l%2B-TLAOUL&ref=plSrch

I would not get those (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00811Y3MG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XWWMzbYEXVNC9) -
SPD SL is the road cleat an not very walk-able as they stick out the bottom and generally cannot be recessed into the shoe. I'd recommend SPD (2-holes like a mountain bike or touring shoe) not SPD-SL(3 holes) for walkbility and the best bet for a commuter shoe if you don't want to change shoes at work/school.


If you want a cycling shoe that you could wear to work, I'd look at a lace-up touring shoe like the Pearl Izumi Alpine Seek that are SPD (2 holes) not SPD-SL (3 hole) compatible. ( https://www.amazon.com/Pearl-Izumi-X-ALP-VI-Cycling/dp/B00M044J3S/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1503334836&sr=1-1-fkmr0&keywords=pearl+izumi+alpine+seek).


Here are some other options - https://www.cyclingabout.com/stylish-spd-cycling-shoes-which-look-casual/


You could also get mountain bike flat shoes that have a stiffer sole for more efficient pedaling but no cleat.


Pedals:

You may want to look at a double sided tour pedal that lets you ride with standard flat shoes to commute or clip in like the Shimano A-530 (https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-A530-SPD-Pedals/dp/B00AAOIAQC) or Crank Bros Double Shot (https://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Double-Pedals-Spring/dp/B016OQXZG4/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1503334666&sr=1-1&keywords=pedal+bros+double+shot).


If you plan to bring a change of shoes, you may want to look at a doubled sided SPD pedal which makes it a bit faster to clip in, like a shimano M520 (https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Unisex-PD-M520-MTB-Pedal/dp/B004L1CLSS)

Firstly, congrats on the ride! Keep it up!

I have the same bike (color and everything) so I can offer a few tips for the new(ish) rider with this rig. Treat it well and you will be happy with it for a long time. I have over 1200 miles on this bike.

First, as everyone has said, foot retention. I have the Pure Fix straps from amazon. If you can swing it I suggest upgrading the pedals as well when you buy retention. I have a nice slim platform from fyxation. About $25 but you can get something better than what is on that bike starting around $12 on up.

2nd, Seat. Keep doing 40+ mile rides and you will quickly realize the stock seat has to go. I have a charge spoon I paid around $26 for. Non-bike friends tell me how uncomfortable my seat looks and I tell them that you should see the original seat that came with the bike! I love the charge.

You see the black streaks from your brake pads on your wheels? Eventually that will cause a streaking noise that is horribly embarrassing if anyone is within a one hundred yard radius. It will also stop like shit. I taped off the rim and sanded the paint off of that edge, then replaced the pads with a really nice pad/shoe from amazon for about $10 a set. No noise, no black marks on the rim and nice braking.

Tires. Keep an eye out for a nicer set of tires. The stock ones will get the job done for a while but they are cheap. Keep an eye out on steepandcheap.com or theclymb.com or wherever. I picked up a set of Vittoria slicks online somewhere for around $16 each and it was a world of difference.

I did replace the brake levers but I broke one of the stock ones. The stock levers are cheap but no rush to replace them if you dont need to. Again, there are a ton of better options out there starting at around $15 when you are ready to upgrade.

I also replaced the bar tape but it was mostly because I was not happy with my install. The stock tape is fine.

I hope this helps a bit. I just wanted to show cheap bikes like this can get a lot of flack round these parts but a few reasonably priced upgrades can make this a nice bike that lasts you a long time.

Here is a few shots of mine. Disregard the blue bottle cage, its on there from a 50 miler i did a few weeks ago. my bike

I second this, real platform pedals will serve you better than the little platform adapters you can get for clipless pedals. OP, consider some Race Face Chesters.

These: https://www.amazon.com/VP-Components-VP-Vice-Pedals-Pack/dp/B006ZH1J5W ...because they feel like your feet are duct-taped to your pedals, and you don't have to wear clips. So nice to get on and off your bike at will when on a tour.

I put clips on a pair of half and halfs once and I wouldn't recommend it. It's pretty awkward riding with SPDs when the clips are hanging down, though it was alright when just using the clips.

If you've got your heart set though, these are compatible with just about any strap or clip you can find. Just add some of these or whatever you've got lying around and you're good to go.

So for the three that you linked, the surface area around the pedal is more for control while technical mountain biking than it is for comfort. In reality, the extra space only helps at those moments when you clip out to put a foot down (or “dab” in mtb speak) and pop your foot back onto the pedal but don’t necessarily have time to clip back in right away. Also helps control when leaning hard on the bike while cornering. For use in an urban environment, there really isn’t much benefit to them over a standard SPD pedal like the M520 in your first link.

As far as surface contact for comfort, a road pedal such as the SPD-SL style 105 pedal has a significantly larger contact area between the cleat and the pedal, which is really what matters. Some will argue that the larger contact area provides better dispersal of pressure, cutting down on the incidence of hot spots or nerve strain at the cleat. Compare that to the relatively small footprint of a SPD mountain bike cleat and you can see why some make that argument. I think this really comes down to personal experience, as many people find no issue with a mtb cleat. Another argument is that you get better transfer of power with the larger contact area, but I don’t think there’s any empirical evidence to support that. Third, and this holds water, one tends to experience far less play in the interface between a road cleat and pedal than between a MTB cleat and MTB pedal. The little bit of play one can find annoying, and while “comfort” is a subjective term, I can say that excessive play in my pedal/cleat interface at the very least makes me psychologically uncomfortable. Fourth, and this one is the one that really matters, you have far more rotational placement options on a road cleat and pedal than you do with a MTB cleat. For people who have pigeon-toes or excessive splay in their stance, the option of rotating their cleat a few more degrees inward or outward can really make a huge difference in ankle and knee comfort.

Take all this with the caveat that it’s easy to walk around in a MTB shoe with the cleat installed. Clunking around on road shoes and cleats is a different matter entirely and something most couriers don’t want to partake in.

If you put wider tires on, you will raise the bike by some millimeters, plus add some more comfort. You could also use thinner height aluminum pedals. https://www.amazon.com/BONMIXC-Mountain-Pedals-Cycling-Bearing/dp/B01DETTSTW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542659643&sr=8-3&keywords=bonmixc+mountain+bike+pedals

Raceface Chester: https://www.amazon.com/RaceFace-Chester-Mountain-Bike-Pedal/dp/B01EONZSAA cheap, and can take a beating.

If you are thinking about using toestraps https://www.fyxation.com/products/gates-slim-pedal-strap-kit have lasted me for years commuting, you can also buy the same pedal without the straps.

Nashbar Soho & Shimano PD-M530 are SPD models.

Edit: these adapter gadgets also exist for use with specific pedals.

I have Sohos on my road bike with the thought that on occasion I might ride with regular shoes, but I like the clipless so much that this never happens, so they're gonna get switched out to some doublesided clipless pedals soon. But fixed without foot retention seems not good.

For a fixed-gear commuter that encounters a lot of red lights and stop and go traffic, what type of foot retention is best? I just ordered a pair of Pure Fix foot straps, did I make a good choice?

Use strapless toe cages. Even the cheap plastic ones will be better than riding flat.

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Bicycle-Strapless-Toe-Clips/dp/B000FSQQMS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1408373901&sr=8-1&keywords=toe+cage

One thing that works great for me are toe clips; they keep your feet in the correct position on the pedal. I wouldn't get ones with straps: it makes it hard to get your feet in.

Link:
https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Bicycle-Clips-Strapless/dp/B000FSQQMS

I just bought biking shoes (Shimano with SDP compatibility). I was hoping for some advice on which pedals to get. I'm looking at lower/cheaper end pedals (such as this one, another one, or another, or finally this one).

I have a road bike, and am looking for double sided pedals that I can use with both my clip in shoes and my regular shoes. Do you have any advice?

Thanks in advance :)

Ok. Well, FWIW, I own those basic shimanos, and while they are "perfectly fine" if I had to do it again I'd probably buy the 105s. The 105s will have better bearings, and they will last longer with the metal plate, and they're not much more expensive. The 105s also come with the cleats, so you buy them and the 3-screw road shoes and you're ready to go.

I can't comment on clipless, but I love my clips. Even though it's not really helpful as I have the MKS GR-9 Pedals which I don't think will work with Power Grips, I just wanted to chime in by saying everything I've ever read about the Power Grips says they are awesome and you should enjoy them. Another MKS pedal might work for you, as that particular company makes good stuff.

Came here to say this. Check out their bikes, plenty at the price range. Keep in mind though that you may need to take it to a shop to be tuned correctly. Also, make sure it comes with the pedals you want. Mine came with clipless (I knew this), so I purchased something like these at my LBS. I bought a hybrid and used that for my campus cruising last year and really enjoyed it. I recently purchased a road bike from BD and love it. Your choice should be a combo of how your campus is set up and what you think would work best for you.

Mostly weight but the new entry level R550 features a resin composite body as well and are quite affordable. They also feature the wider platform of the higher end models though that doesn't matter too much with stiff cycling shoes.

I purchased the Ultegra pedals from Nashbar when they had a sell on Shimano components in addition to a 20% off any item sale. It came out to $96 compared to $147 for the cheapest Amazon price. ($199 msrp) so I thought it was a stellar deal. Otherwise, I'd go with the 105 pedals (were out of stock at Nashbar at the time of the sale).

I use these on my commuter so I have the choice of wearing cycling shoes or just any shoe depending on where/what I'm riding to.

http://bike.shimano.com/content/sac-bike/en/home/mtb1/pedals/pedals/pd-m324.html

Another option if they want something more secure than just a platform are toe cages like this. You should be able to find those at any local bike store or even a general sporting goods store like Dick's.

http://www.amazon.com/MKS-GR-9-Platform-Pedals-Silver/dp/B001GSMRQ0/ref=sr_1_10?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1416955974&sr=1-10&keywords=mks+pedals

My personal favorite platform pedals. The long body makes for a really stable platform, and it's plenty grippy too. There's a little tab on the back for you to flip the pedal and you can install cages on them too. Only complaint is that they're not the best pedals when it's raining.

Having long ridden my road bike with shimanos, I did the same as /u/AnieParis. Deltas may be fine, but I've got 10 years of muscle memory...

The road bike has the fancy super light (read: expensive) DuraAce ones... but for the peloton, I just got the low-end SPD-SL's. No issues putting them on the bike, and I much prefer their lower stack-height and general feel.

>...am I better off getting a cheap used road bike to see if I like it...?

​

Honestly, it sounds like you and I are coming from the exact same place. So I'm going to answer this with a conditional yes. That condition is this: I may be biased. I say that because that's what I did and I'm VERY happy with it. Now, I truly do prefer my 37 yo 10-speed over my hybrid any day of the week... but I pretty much only ride on paved roads. I currently ride on these tires but I used to ride on these, which worked well for local hardpack trails and nearby greenways. So it doesn't have to be all or nothing.

​

I checked out the Rochester Criagslist (since you linked to it, I assume that's you area) for some older road bikes, and there are quite a few available, but many of them are $200+. Occasionally you can find one like this one for $20. That's cheap enough that you can get a new seat (the originals were like medieval torture devices), pedals (I like these), brake levers, cables, chain, etc. all for under ~$100. (Of course, I also would do my own servicing of the bottom bracket, which saves the cost of an LBS doing it.)

Then I'd give it two weeks' worth of riding to see how it feels. If you don't like it, then you're out $100 and you post the upgraded and improved bike back on Craigslist for $200-300 like most people seem to. Then turn those profits into upgrades for your hybrid.

If you decide to keep the hybrid, but are uncomfortable with drop bars, you may want to consider butterfly bars. If I hadn't made the move to a road bike, I would have done this with my hybrid just to have more hand position options.

I like prefer the SPD-SL pedals compared to the old SPD style.

Make sure that you get the appropriate cleats for your pedals.

SPD-SL cleats : SPD cleats

To add on to someone else's comments, I'd make out your bike and components with that tax deduction. The clothes can come later, and you won't need the cold weather stuff until middle-late fall.

https://www.amazon.com/RockBros-Lightweight-Mountain-Bicycle-Platform/dp/B07CWRQQGD/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0614JWWRDSNB4WHWBEF5

something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Bicycle-Clips-Strapless/dp/B000FSQQMS

While some shifters are better than others, at this price point, they all will be about the same. If you want thumb shifters, that is a perfectly valid choice. There are also some trigger shifters out there, as well as grip shifters if you wanted to keep that style. As long as the shifter is shimano compatible, and 7 speed, it will work with your current freewheel and derailleur.

>As for what you described with the current drivetrain, what i think I'm seeing you suggest is 'clip the front derailleur off/remove it, leave the current crankset on with the chain at the middle gear since even though not optimal it current funds can be better spent elsewhere.' Am I reading that right?

No. The bottom bracket axle length will determine how close to or far from the frame the chankset is. This article on Chainline may be of some help.

What I was suggesting is that you can still change the crankset, and leave the derailleur in place as a chain guide (tighten the limit screws to ensure that the derailleur is centered over the chainring). They make purpose built chain guides, but the derailleur is already there and will work, so free chain guide.

As far as the rear derailleur, you have a claw mount derailleur, so for anything "better" than what you have, you will need an adapter. As far as upgrading the derailleur, I would personally go for something along the lines of the Altus M2000 or Acera M3000. Note that these are "9 speed" derailleurs, but the cable pull is the same as 5-8 and the shifter dictates the "speeds" shifted, so they will drop right in.

Pedals, Rockbros are the current king of the inexpensive. They come in a few colours, so you can match that to your taste.

Weeding the bad out is sometimes as easy as reading reviews, yes. However, look beyond the amazon for reviews. I generally prefer a video review, so I frequent YouTube for them, but google/duckduckgo can usually find a few forum posts as well that will answer questions.
It is also sometimes as easy as knowing a trusted name, and using their part over a shady one. Shimano and Sram parts are usually trusted and reliable on the drivetrain. Rockshox, Fox, and Manitou are good for shocks and forks, but Suntour is also sometimes good. There are more brands that are great, but on the low end price point, just play it by ear.

The VP ones on Amazon are excellent pedals for the money.

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Components-VP-Vice-Pedals-Pack/dp/B006ZH1J5W

Much tougher than Wellgos or other metal pedals in the <$50 range. Shimano Saints are a little more expensive, but bombproof.

Never tried plastic pedals.

Clipless pedals don't have clips, they have cleats. 'Clips' are synonymous with 'cages' which you can still buy.

The confusion comes because the cleats clip into the pedals.

My current set up.

MKS-GR9 Pedals- $22 http://www.amazon.com/MKS-GR-9-Platform-Pedals-Silver/dp/B001GSMRQ0

MKS Double toe clips- $28 http://store.somafab.com/mkstoecldoga.html

Cadence Double straps- $54 http://www.citygrounds.com/cadence/cadence-double-toe-straps-175

Other nice items worth considering.
> Straps: Toshi doubles, All city doubles.

> Clips/Cages: SOMA

> because now I'm afraid of them

Literally everybody crashes at least once. Please don't let that scare you off. I've dumped a couple of times and, of fucking course, there were people watching. It's happened to all of us. If you want to practice, a narrow hallway in your home is probably ideal. You can practice on a grassy field but you're a lot more likely to fall when you're going slow on grass which could further discourage you.

>I put some tiny platform pedals on and ride in my stiffest soled shoes.

Hey, if that's what works for you, that's what works for you. I've been trying to convince people for years that the biggest benefit of clipless pedals is the stiff soled shoe. I ran "clipless," stiff soled, shoes for quite a while with half-clip toe cages and it was awesome. Actually picking up clipless pedals and cleats was a marginal improvement over the stiff soled shoe. I think the people that wear floppy "walkable" clipless shoes that look like typical street shoes are deluding themselves about the benefit of using cleats.

I would, however, suggest picking up something with a bigger platform if that's the way you're going to go. Ideally a single sided MKS pedal with a half-clip or a full toe clip and strap setup. Single sided platform pedals look nicer, weigh less, and often have a feature to help you flip the pedal into place and insert your foot. Example 1, 2, 3, 4

Seriously dude, if you're wigged out at the idea of riding clipless again, pull the cleat off your shoes and give them a try on your platform pedals. If you think it feels good, then invest in some half-clips/full-clips and compatible pedals (the soles of clipless pedals don't play nicely with the grippy bits of platform pedals and the toe clip will keep your foot from slipping around).

If you aren't riding in bad weather, it won't matter much. But I am going to leave this alternate suggestion here anyway.

[Here's] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BW3HM8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) some pedals that I purchased recently. They're probably on the lower end of pedals out there, but they've worked well for me so far.

Honestly, a platform pedal with good velcro straps would be your best bet. Recently bought a pair for my beat up commuter and these things are amazing. With the added reflective seams it will help with being visible later in the day. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DPD5B9E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have Bonmixc Mountain Bike Pedals:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DETTSTW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They're really nice. The big question is really: What type of shoes are you wearing? These MTB-type pedals with grippy studs are great, but they will chew up leather-soled shoes, and possibly other nice dress shoes. But if you can wear casual, athletic shoes at work, or wear a pair for commuting and keep something else at work, then these are great.

Here you go . $30 and a variety of colors. I have these on my commuter/kid pulling bike and they're fantastic and available from Amazon.

Haha, tis okay. We're all jealous of your score, and that great choice of bars and tires.


How about these pedals, in white? I rode singletrack with them on my mountain bike. They worked great before I switched to clipless pedals.

Edit: I also own a set of these which cost about twice as much, but are very well made and great value for the money. I think they're as nice as $100+ MTB flats. I think either the black or grey ones would look nice on your bike.

These have done the job for me, I've been riding them pretty hard for about 6 months. The spindles/bearings on the pedals were pretty clunky, but smoothed out once I rode them for a while.

If your pedals are already compatible, here is the link for straps only

So if I get this tool, I'll also need something like this chain whip and this cassette remover?

Thanks for the info!

Is this similar to what you are describing?

http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Clip-Strap-Large-X-Large/dp/B002BW3AD4/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1407360739&sr=1-3&keywords=toe+clip+strap

Same as others have said here. SPD clips with MTB shoes as those have treads that allow you to (sort of) walk.

I've had these pedals forever (https://www.amazon.com/Wellgo-Shimano-Compatible-Multi-Function-Mountain/dp/B00E7UZBNA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=wellgo+dual+sided+spd&qid=1566833564&s=outdoor-recreation&sr=1-3 )

although if I were still riding clipped in in the city, I would probably go with these as I like feel of egg beaters much more.

https://www.amazon.com/CRANKBROTHERs-Brothers-Double-Pedals-Spring/dp/B016OQXZG4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=egg+beaters+dual+sided&qid=1566833634&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-3

The cleat on an egg beater is about the same size as an SPD one.

There are also some knockoff chesters on Amazon. They perform pretty much the same, but are significantly cheaper. https://www.amazon.com/FOOKER-Composite-Mountain-High-Strength-Bikesflat/dp/B07L5RF5CW

I bought these when they were one sale and under $20 About 600km on them so far and I'm very happy with them. Arrived in 2 days and took 2 minutes to install.

maybe some pedals with toe clips?


http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Ultralight-Pedals-Straps-Silver/dp/B002BW3HM8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395619151&sr=8-1&keywords=pedal+toe+clip

My brother picked up one of these for his bike quite a while ago, and I've used it on my bike since I've gotten it with few problems. The only thing I'd recommend is a separate pedal wrench because those things can get tight, but if your cranks are still on your bike when you change/remove pedals, it's not an issue.

TL;DR, the link is what I use, and it's pretty great.

For sure. These are a perfectly solid pedal. Not top end, but very far from low end. They'd last many years.

I googled SPDs and these are not SPDs. They are http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Ultralight-Pedals-Straps-Silver/dp/B002BW3HM8

I told my mom I was looking at getting new pedals to replace the stock pedals and she just went out and got these from a LBS. I really liked the fit and the fact that the pedal itself had a lot of grip even without the straps but it looks like they were not of the greatest quality. I guess I'll try what you said about about repacking the pedal but when I screwed it back onto the spindle this morning there looked to be plenty of grease still on the spindle...

Wald basket details on install straight from the item page on Rivendell: https://www.rivbike.com/products/wald-wire-basket

The this rack setup won’t work exactly for all bikes because it uses struts to stays on the top of the crown fork, a bit rare but super useful. But you can get it with a “diving board” to attach af the center top of the fork to fit most bikes. Otherwise, it’s likely the (unfortunately costly but versatile and great) Nitto Mark’s rack from rivendell, it can attach a few different ways. Low 5 pound weight limit technically but most folks easily put much more than that.

The pedals are probably VP-001 “thin gripsters”:
https://www.rivbike.com/products/thin-gripster-pedals-dark-grey-vp-001
Very similar but much cheaper are the VP-015 (VP Vice): www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZH1H7M

I believe the handlebars are the Nitto Wavie (only from Rivendell or BlueLug I think): https://www.rivbike.com/products/hhhssjiotrt6464etya1dr
Wide (660mm), meaningful sweepback, good bar for a flat bar mountain bike person looking for something a bit more comfortable.

Dynamo front wheel: Velocity Cliffhanger 700c rim,IQ-X light, Shimano DH-3N72 hub.

All sorts of good Hunq, nice ride internet stranger.

Check out the Riv Bike Works owners group on google groups for more of this sort of goodness.

Grippy platform pedals with spikes like VP Vice:

https://www.amazon.com/VP-Components-VP-Vice-Pedals-Pack/dp/B006ZH1J5W

Bogs Rubber Boots with low cut ankle for flexibility, they make a couple different kinds:

https://www.bogsfootwear.com/shop/style/71330-001.html

https://www.bogsfootwear.com/shop/style/72362-001.html

https://www.bogsfootwear.com/shop/style/71395-001.html

Here is a cheap good replacement set http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Ultralight-Pedals-Straps-Silver/dp/B002BW3HM8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416423606&sr=8-1&keywords=avenir+light+pedals&pebp=1416423609065

I use shimano mtb pedals which have enough platform to ride in street shoes if need be. Best of both worlds.

> You could rig up toe clips which work with sandals.

No, I am so not a toe clip guy. Been there, done that. I have an MTB flat pedal on there now. I do a lot of off and on road, so I like the wideness of the pedal and super comfortable on them. In many ways, don't want to lose it, but I ride enough and knowledgeable enough to know that the constant shifting around is causing me to get my knees out of position. I put a lot of miles in and know enough now. And I have been locked in before with a Shimano PD-A530 before, although it has been a few years, and realized then that my mechanics were just much smoother and natural when locked in from what I remember.

> If you walk around your home with SPD shoes on you will destroy your floors.

Oh I know that...I was talking more about why then what I was hoping to do. I just want a SPD shoe that I can be in when I am out and about all day riding or when I start to tour, I will be in them majority of the time. When I walk around camp or whatever, I can use flip flops, regular sandals, or light second pair of shoes of whatever I decide to eventually carry season dependent.

For pedals just get these. They're well-built, light, and work just as well as the more expensive variants (plus that bike is all 105 components so you might as well have the pedals be 105 as well). You'll need a pedal wrench obviously. You'll also need SPD-SL compatible shoes. Get these on amazon to save money. These are a pretty good starter shoe.

Yeah, if you're 6' a 57 should fit. I'd inspect it to make sure shifting, brakes, etc. are in working order and once you have the bike go to a place that does bike fitting (here is a good place to find locations). It'll run you around $100 but they'll be able to adjust heights, swap out the stem for a proper length, etc. Totally worth it to prevent injury (plus your bike will feel much better).

Some helmets offer better air flow, comfort, and possibly better protection with systems like MIPS, but these can be found at any price point. People pay a premium for branding; your helmet is fine.

You don't have to spend hundreds on pedals/shoes. First figure out if want SPD or SPD-sl. I recommend SPDs, or mountain bike pedals, due to the range of affordable shoes, easier clip action, and the ability to walk normally. The Crank Brothers Double Shot 2 Pedals will let you ease into clipless by letting you ride however you want. Shimano sells a similar pedal for around $30 as well that might look better on your bike.

Jerseys are cool, but not necessary.

One of the most important things when starting off is finding the best saddle for your ass. Work with a shop for help finding the right one.

They are these ones, I think, but I got them at my LBS. Cheap, easy to install and feel great so far.

Got toe clips? I highly recommend them! You get extra stick and extra power since you can push forward into the clip. If you're worried about getting stuck and falling over, try something like these. They're not nearly as constricting as classic "foot clamps," and afford an exit in any direction but front.

You'll need a lockring tool and a chain whip. (You need the whip to hold the cassette in place and the lockring tool to take off the cassette itself. Park Tools is the brand I have, and probably the most reputable. (I'd link it, but apparently Amazon doesn't want to cooperate...)

Initially I bought these Meetlocks because they were only 15 bucks, just to try platforms. I had been clipless for 30 years. They started getting sloppy after about 5000 miles or so and there is no way to rebuild them. I moved on to Bonmixc and I'm really happy. I have about 12000 miles on them, and they are rock solid. The problem with them, is they have no rear reflector, and don't conform to California law...if you're a stickler about those things. I would probably buy a Shimano product like these because I understand they can be rebuilt, although they have the same reflector problem.

IMPORTANT Additionally, I would try measuring the distance between your feet when standing comfortably, then measure the distance between your pedals. If the distance between your pedals is less, you might be putting most of the pressure on the outside of your feet. I DID have that problem and added spacers like these to make up the difference. They come in different lengths and materials. The spacers solved 3 problems for me (I think). My feet, my knees (cyclers even call them knee savers) which became better aligned, and saddle chaffing by spreading my legs a little.

Adding the extensions might be all you need to do, and you can keep the clipless if that's preferable.

A WTB Speed (I think) , I think the ~$40 WTB road bike one.
The one that came stock on my low level FX got too soft after little wear. It was springy and soft, which felt great in store, fine on short commutes, and not so good on hour rides. It quickly got too soft for anything and offered no support. After some research, at the time WTB seemed a good choice for a budget friendly seat for my commuter. It’s held up pretty well considering the abuse.
WTB Speed Comp Saddle with Steel Rails - Available in Black and Black/Silver (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BMGH6DD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Z1VXCbM09VK4R


For pedals, I have the Crank Bros Candy 3. It’s what I have on my mountain bike and I generally like them. I kinda wish I would’ve done their half platform version though.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016OQXZG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_F4VXCb2XSNA16

I doubt it. I think they're about $50 USD usually. I don't think I've ever seen them below $40

I know my buddy runs a knock off pair on his hard tail and has had pretty good luck with them. I think they were called "Fooker" brand pedals. An amazon search shows they're $20 and appear to be an exact replica of RF Chesters. No idea how they will hold up to repeated abuse but might be worth a try if you can't do some extra stuff around the house to earn the extra credit with the parents.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/FOOKER-Composite-Mountain-High-Strength-Bikesflat/dp/B07L5RF5CW

I use strapless toe clips, kinda like these. They help with correct foot position and aren't a problem if you want to bail out quick and are easy to step into. I don't get tired as much and apply optimal pressure on the pedals. Recommended, but not required.

So I had those Azonic 420's on my trail/AM bike, they were okay, but for the same money you can go with the VP Vice, which are lighter, have a stronger axle, a lower profile, and are waaaaayyyy more grippy (more pins, and the pins are longer). Easily the best flats I've ever ridden. You can pick them up on ebay sometimes for $40-50 as well if you're really looking for a deal.

Avoid the Elixr brakes for DH builds, I've never had/heard of anything but trouble, I'd go with shimano or formula for stopping power.

Drivetrain is the reverse- I have an XT drivetrain right now on the trail bike, and its okay, but nothing spectacular. Running X9 on the DH rig, and its pretty much the same performance as the XT, but quite a bit cheaper and requires less adjusting, so that'd be my recommendation.

The only pedals that I have ever used are Road bike clip-less (specifically, the Shimano SPD-SL type pedals and cleats) so take this with a grain of salt, but from what I've gathered from reading this subreddit road pedals give you slightly more power transfer (when your clipped in its a bit more rigid), but do not plan on walking any kind of major distance in them (anything greater than about 25ft).

With MTB clipless you can find some shoes with recessed cleats, so walking in them is no problem. They also have some MTB "dual-platform" pedals that you can flip over and have a flat surface like a regular pedal like this.

Bottom line is if you plan on riding your bike to do errands, go to school, etc and you don't want to carry a second pair of shoes then MTB clipless is the way to go; if you plan on going on long distance rides for recreation/sport and don't plan on stopping much go for road clipless.

I bought some shorts from Dicks Sporting goods. They have the spandex style with padding on the inside but also have cargo pants attached to the outside so you don't look like you are attempting the tour de france when you go into work. It looks like you are wearing shorts. I love the padding, mainly because I don't have an ass (Ha!). I steered clear of clipless, I recently bought some toe clips from amazon for 6 bucks after someone here on reddit recommended them. I figured for 6 bucks, its worth a test. It is very easy to slip your foot out even if you are strapped in. I'd say if you have enough hills, they are pretty helpful. Here are the Toe Clips.

Wellgo MG-1 is an affordable and sturdy pair of pedals: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E7UZ99Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

suggestions on a cheap seat??

how about this for a saddle ? http://www.citygrounds.com/crew-bike-co/crew-bike-co-street-saddle-w-crmo-rails-3772

and these for straps http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00933WSTQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

and these for pedals http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EMYUNC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

So, I am looking to upgrade my bike. However, it is a SS conversion.

I have been riding on it for awhile and looking to officially switch it over to a fixed gear. I have thought of buying a complete, but I dont really have space to keep two bikes because I will be living on campus. So I thought I would upgrade with decent parts and then upgrade the frame later down the line.

This is my current frame and I haven't done much with it since I got it about a year and a half ago. LINK

This is what I have been thinking of buying:

Wheelset: [H+ Son Archetype]
(http://www.velomine.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=87_172_301&products_id=2578)

Pedals: Fyxation Gates

Crankset: Andel Track

Bottom Bracket: Andel BB

Chain: Izumi ECO

Cog: EAI Deluxe Track 17t

Lockring: Dura Ace Lockring

Saddle: Charge Spoon (might a well upgrade this too)

Bar Tape: Origin8 Bar Tape

Lockring Wrench

Total: $492.75 not including the cost of getting LBS to install crank/chain/bb.

I think I will stick with the current frameset, drop bars, and brakes. Will probably replace the bartape as well.

If I brought these to an LBS would they help install them on? I dont have that many tools to start replacing them.

It is a slightly different subject, but do you know/are you able to calculate the extra benefit of using no clips/slide in clips/full on pedal clips?

Wondering if it would be worth it to upgrade from the slip ins to the full ons

I had a friend give me these and its all I have used on my DH bike. I have never had any issues with them and they feel stable so I'm not sure if you will need more beefy or not.

I just ordered these the other day. When I asked a similar question they were the recommendation I got. I can't vouch for the yet though.

A lot of people think that because racers wear clipless, it's because clipless makes them faster - but that's not exactly true. Racers wear clipless because it keeps their foot very well attached to the pedal, which is useful when you're sprinting all out, or when the race is in the rain.

A number of studies have been done on clipless ridden by professional racers, and they've shown either that clipless provides no power or efficiency benefit whatsoever, or that they provide a slight benefit but nothing huge.

I recommend you do not get either clips or straps. Neither would provide an efficiency advantage, both are worse for getting your foot off the pedal in an emergency.

If you don't want to do clipless but want more grip on the pedal, I personally stopped using clipless and went back to flat pedals with pins.

Here's a good $50 pair of flat pedals (VP Components VP-Vice Pedals):
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006ZH1H7M?colid=WY4I3K3W4NW4&coliid=I2ULBBCTW3UH47&psc=1&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl

If you prefer a pedal with a slight curve to them, the Specialized Bennies are $80:
http://www.specialized.com/us/en/ftb/mtb-components/pedals/bennies-platform-pedals

For shoes I use Chrome Kurk's as they're fairly "normal shoe" looking:
http://www.chromeindustries.com/us/en/kursk-black-black

You can also wear most any skate shoe as well. If you want a "feels like the shoe is glued to the pedal" feeling, FiveTen makes flat shoes with super sticky rubber that really grabs on bike pedals with pins. But my Chrome shoes have been what I need - Five Ten shoes actually grab to much for my taste.

Or you could go full clipless as well with 2 bolt (mountain) clipless shoes.

I just don't recommend straps or cages for anyone, I think they're the worst of all worlds.

Thank you and /u/ChristophColombo for the responses. I didn't even think about being able to transfer those things to another bike which is a really good point.

I went with the bike I did because it had the best drive train I could find (full X5) but sacrificed hydraulics for it. The mechs it came with just aren't adjustable at all, rub badly, and make a hell of a noise. So they aren't really limiting per-say, just annoying.

The fork is something I want as well but that probably wouldn't be as wise of a purchase. I'm looking at Wellgo MG-1's for pedals and SRAM DB5's for brakes (Elixir 5 replacements). I've heard the shimano deore M615's are better but that was just a few comments on an article.

How about this http://amzn.com/B000XNXUUG

You can get these RF Chester knock offs on Amazon for like half the cost. Just as good honestly if not better.

Different shoes have a pretty big effect on your position without adding in the clip less aspect. Though it's not certain you'd even need to, you could set it for the weekend rides and probably get by for your commute. But there's the possibility things won't be optimal without some adjustment.

I just think that if you're doing rides that long it's worth spending money for proper road pedals. To me these two seem like a better deal than this.

People seem to like these www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00933WSTQ

Diamondback has a good pair of pedals w/ cages for around $20 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJYQ1Y4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1