(Part 3) Best bike pedals according to redditors

I'm in the same position as you and have been riding my bike for two months now, so I can share some experiences.

• I bought a Fuji Sunfire 2.0 last year, put about 50 miles on it and quit for the year. It cost me about $700 bucks.
  
  http://archive.fujibikes.com/archivebikes.php?prodid=2017&prodname=Sunfire%202.0%20&modelyear=2012
  
  
• You can buy any hybrid and ride it out of the store and it will be fine.....for a few miles and then stuff will start breaking. My bike got about a hundred miles and I started killing the spokes on my rear wheel(it holds 60%-70% of the load). I took it into a LBS and they built me a new rear wheel for about $200, it's built like a tank and gotten me to 250 mile without any more problems. My fingers are crossed.
  
  
• I replaced the pedals fast, those cheap stamped metal ones that come with the bike are crap, but you can buy a solid set of flat basic ones for under $25. A Larger surface area lets you spread the load on your foot.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BVUGA0/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• I replaced the saddle with one without a nose, so it's more of a flat bar to set on. Most people here will hate on unusual saddle but I was stopping my ride early because of the pain even with bike shorts. You will be putting twice the weight a "large" 225 pound guy would be putting on his perineum. Regular people experience discomfort and injury already, what is 400+ pounds going to do to you?
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AOC3ZG/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• I replaced the seatpost with one with two bolts to be a little more stable, but mostly since i had striped the bolt in the other one.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005Z4CDCY/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• I had the LBS install bar ends for me for about $30, you will be putting a large part of your weight on your hands, they will be uncomfortable and for me are my current problem spot. I have biking glove and the bar ends make it tolerable.
  
  
• Use your smartphone to keep track of your workouts and distance, strava.com appears to be the leader but I use mapmyride.com(stupid name, I know). Mapmyride handles my small routes better with it's GPS system, strava was rounding the corners a lot and cutting out 20% of my ride.
  
  I have an office park near me that gives me a one mile loop near my apartment that has parking gates so it is low traffic in the evenings and weekends. It has given me a chance to learn my bike and build myself up from being exhausted and about to pass out at 2 miles to going 10+ miles at a time. Boredom will be my next major challenge so I'll need a longer route.
  
  You're going to need to learn your pace. When I started I saw all these guys maintaining 20 MPH with a solid cadence the entire time. I still can't maintain a cadence for more than a min or two but was still trying match them. So I about killed myself on a public trail 4 miles in even though it was mostly flat. I had to lay down on the side of the trail for a while to keep from passing out.
  
  To hell with hills, you're already going to be working harder than the average "large" rider, now you have to haul twice the weight? Use them gears, don't be a hero.
  
  If you're in the Washington DC area I'd be happy to meet up with you and let you see the bike and talk.

Very nice! A few thoughts:

• Someone commented on how the rack looks cheap. The silver brackets connected to the seat stay probably have long slots cut in them. If you loosen the bolts on the rack, you should be able to rotate it closer to the bike to get it leveled. You will probably have to bend them a little to do that, but this is a normal part of installing a rack, and they're meant to do that. If the brackets don't have slots, don't be afraid to grab a drill and add some holes to them. Getting that thing level will make it look a hundred times better.
  
• Get foot retention! A lot of people swear by "clipless" systems, with special shoes that lock onto your pedals. At the very least, you should be rocking some toe clips. They take a little getting used to, but once you have them you'll wonder how you ever lived without.
  
• Slam that stem! Well, obviously this is up to your own personal ergonomic preference, but you should at least try moving those spacers (all of them!) above your stem on a trial basis, to lower your handlebars. It will give you a "sportier" posture, which a lot of people (myself included) prefer. If you hate it, you can change it back. No big deal!
  
• As someone else noted, the plastic "spoke protector" (otherwise known as a "dork disk" or "pie plate") on your rear wheel nestled between the spokes and cogs is basically useless. A lot of people consider them some sort of bike aesthetic faux pas, and, indeed, it will only get uglier as it gets dirty and turns yellow and starts cracking. If your bike's drivetrain (specifically, the rear derailleur) is properly adjusted and you don't end up accidentally mucking it up, there's no reason for it to be there. But, if you like it for some reason, or it makes you feel safer, then, hey! Some people might scoff, but it's your bike, so fuck them!
  
  Congratulations on your investment! Ride the shit out of it. :)

I just bought these MKS Lambda pedals and I'm very happy with them. They look great, have a ton of surface area, and are very grippy. Also consider the MKS Sylvan which I've used for thousands of miles and are also very good.

I put a pair of these on my bike and it seriously made a huge difference. Much much less of my feet sliding off of my pedals and they are reasonably priced too.

Race Face Chester Pedal One Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018J1IZ8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I84RCbBMFTZH6

You don't really say where you are and what type of riding you'll be doing but here's my $0.02 on what I've done and would recommend to others.


Clipless Pedals + Shoes --> These are the newer version to what I use on my roadie, but if you want the versatility of the dual clipless or the single+flat on the other side, you can do that. Or you can go with full-road-cleated pedals, of course. For the shoes, try some out at a store, the internet hasn't replaced this step.

Saddle bag -- I err.. duct taped a tube to my seatpost and carry the rest of my crap in my jersey pockets.

Water bottle -- If you ride in extreme weather, consider an insulated bottle, it's sooo nice to fill with iced water and have cool water to dring on 100F+ days

Pump -- I have one that came with a bracket to bolt under the water cages, maybe look for one like it (can't remember the brand of mine)

??? (I have no idea what else I will need) -- you'll need/want:

• a multitool to adjust or fix anything that can come up. I have the park multitool and I don't really recommend it as there's probably better tools out there for road bike use, just make sure that it has a chain tool included.
  
• Tire levers, if they aren't included somehow in the multitool. I always carry one extra so I can have 3 leverage points if I get a flat.
  
• With a new bike you might need bottle cages.
  
• Get some chain lube if you don't have any.
  
• Depending on chain brand, a power link or quick link
  
• For patch kits, the park one is pretty much OK but do stay away from the self-adhering ones, they're garbage!

There's always one of the click'r pedals, the 400 or the 700 (the 400 looks like it might be better for when you're in regular shoes)

I use dual platforms but without reflectors. Heres some Shimanos on Amazon. At $80 theyre spendy though http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005M9CG5Q?keywords=shimano%20deore%20pedals&qid=1453173710&ref_=sr_1_2&sr=8-2 Heres some cheaper ones from Wellgo http://www.amazon.com/Commuter-Reversible-Clipless-Shimano-Platform/dp/B005ZS0WMS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1453173852&sr=8-3&keywords=dual+platform+pedals

Yes, if you're going to ride the bike with regular shoes the M324 is the way to go.

I also have the Click'r PD-T400 on my touring bike which are double sided SPD but the clamp is recessed in the platform so you can ride them with regular shoes too. They now have the 421 which has a bigger platform.

so its right in the shoe description - Compatible with Shimano SPD SL AND Look. Those are two main players in road pedal systems. So go get SPD-SL pedals or LOOKs. WARNING - road pedals are shit to walk around in. The cleat is added to the sole of the boot that is clear round. So like walking in heels but you have the "heel" in the front. So for commute not so good if you want to go around shopping on your way home


Pedals. to go with SPD-SL try these, they are basic and basically anything higher level is just shaded weight you pay for
https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-SPD-SL-PD-R540-Clipless-Pedals/dp/B004JKEG3O/ref=sr_1_15?fst=as%3Aoff&qid=1567885802&refinements=p_89%3ASHIMANO&rnid=2528832011&s=outdoor-recreation&sr=1-15

Nonsense. Just buy a pair of these and just spin baby spin.

Race Face Chester

I recommend cycling in boots (or trekking sandals), because you will want something rugged for all the walking you are going to be doing on your rest days, exploring a city with a Warm Showers host, say, or taking the opportunity to make a short hike. Bike shoes and clipless pedals, in my opinion, are a gimmick with sports cyclists in mind, not tourers. If you want more power on the upstroke, you can get Power Grips instead, though most tourers are not even going to find those more than a gimmick.

Also, clipless pedals are tiny little things because Shimano chases the ultra-lightweight sports market. For touring, I would recommend instead MKS Sylvan Tour pedals. It's comfortable on tour to have a nice, wide pedal.

I use those : https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00MJYQN0Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Only one I ever used by I am quite happy with them.

https://www.amazon.com/MKS-RMX-Platform-Pedals-Silver/dp/B006EPPB7M

Hands down the best all-round platform pedal in my experience. Made in Japan, grippy but not spiky, rolls smooth, will last forever. They're seriously sorta magical. I have no idea how they hold a shoe as well as they do, but they grab better than some MTB platforms I've ridden than will tear your skin off.

If you want clipless pedals it sorta depends on what cleat you want. I don't ride clipless very much but my preference is definitely for SPD, and I just use the Shimano pedal that best suits the bike for that purpose - they make ones for mountain bikes, road bikes, and "touring" which has a platform side and a clip-in side.

When I learned to ride clipless, I picked up the crank brothers Mallet to learn on. They had a big enough platform so if I ever felt unsure about a section, I could unclip going into it and still have a solid pedal underneath me. They helped a lot. I eventually gave them to a buddy, and he successfully made the transition from flats.

If you want to ride with clipless pedals, you should stick with them. I don't think it will ever get any easier. The main thing is to try to think ahead of when you might need to unclip. Eventually, it will become second nature. Everyone takes some knocks when they first start with them, though. I fell three times during my first ride.

I use Power Grips on my platforms

http://www.amazon.com/Power-Grips-Sport-Pre-Assembled-Strap/dp/B00PUGNURO

Had the same problem. Every time I got up in the saddle, the clear clicked like it released and then re-engaged. No amount of adjustment made a difference.

I ended up switching to a set of Look Keo pedals and applicable cleats. So much better!

Look Keo 2 Max Pedal - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QXLI98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LTXYDbY9M943P

I use the cheap Fyxation Gates Pedal and it works fine. If you're looking for something a little sleeker the slim version would work as well.

I like my Crank Bros Mallet 1's.

They're reasonably priced, easy to get in and out of, and can be used with regular shoes if necessary.

Hell yeah, you're gonna love it. The pedals are Race Face Chesters and the grips are ESI Chunky foam grips. Almost wish I would've went with the ESI Extra Chunkies though, I have pretty big hands at 6'2".

People downvote me because I'm a little weird, but some of these are good, they have the capacity of being clipless, but still having the option of using regular shoes if you feel like it. If you want to save the weight and use only clipless these are good, they're simple clipless pedals, both are rather inexpensive, and if you feel like spending more money

Hah. Looking for concrete answers?

Buy these. https://www.amazon.com/MKS-18092030213-Sylvan-Touring-Pedals/dp/B000MXOLAK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=mks+sylvan+touring+pedals&qid=1569467532&s=gateway&sprefix=mks+s&sr=8-1

Not so sharp that she’ll dump you for getting them but still really grippy.

Nice classic look that would nice on a road bike.

Power Grips might be just the thing for you.

Edit: The link is for a combined pedal/strap setup because that was the best picture I could find. You can buy just the straps for much less.

That bike looks like it was barely ridden! Great catch. Now just get out there and ride.

The only thing that I can't quite tell re: the bike is what kinda pedals it has. If those are the plastic pedals that came with it then I'd consider changing them out to something with more grip or you'll soon be slapping your in-between-naughty place with metal tubing. I've used these which aren't too expensive...

http://www.amazon.com/Diamondback-Bigfoot-Pedals-16Inch-Axle/dp/B002BVUGA0/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1404235658&sr=8-10&keywords=bike+pedal

http://www.amazon.com/Wellgo-Magnesium-Sealed-Platform-Pedal/dp/B00GDF87GU/ref=pd_sim_sg_12?ie=UTF8&refRID=0VH4A4CHB2K4V82PCXBN

I like them...pretty light. You can get new ones for $60 on Amazon

Out of the list you have there, I think the most important ones are "tires" but I am also thinking he is asking for a new bike. Let me explain.

First, ask him why he wants clipless pedals. If it is because of the terrain is too rough and his feet are bouncing so much that he gets off the pedals, then that is the correct answer, If it is because everyone is using them, that is the wrong answer. You can always accommodate for this with technique. So for me, clipless pedals are just one more expense with not a lot of backing. There are downhill racers racing with flat pedals. I have personally avoided this expense and I prefer to get better in my technique of riding than solving the issues with clipless pedals. I have chosen to spend my money in other things like tubless tires and grips. BTW, the original pedals of this bike are terrible. If he is riding with those, then that's a must. I would change to flat pedals though... So ask him. (Chester flat pedals are affordable and great looking, plastic and can be reused in any other bike you get.)

https://www.amazon.com/RaceFace-Chester-Pedal-Turquoise-Size/dp/B06XKV7VH5/ref=asc_df_B06XKV7VH5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312065280674&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7548884091665632536&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011905&hvtargid=aud-800703102928:pla-440833654491&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62425943472&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312065280674&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7548884091665632536&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011905&hvtargid=aud-800703102928:pla-440833654491

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Second, "grips" grips are a good thing to get if you know about grips, like a lot. This can be one of the main things on that list and kind of cheap to get. That is because there are two point of contacts between your body and the bike, and that is pedals and grips. Grips come in first, that's how you handle the bike. again, ask him why grips, is it because he wants a nice color? or because his hands are slipping? is it sweat? is it that they are too big? or too small? Asses the issue and get those grips at a store where he can test them. I would think that gloves are more important since they protect your fingers (get full finger protection) and they enhance gripness and avoid slipping since sweat is mitigated. If it is size and diameter and his hands are getting off the grip, then the grip he has currently is too large.

"Tires": they are the one thing that makes the whole thing go. Depending on the terrain and how rough it is. They can make a ride in the woods where there are a lot of rocks and roots a pain in the butt if they don't have larger knots and spacing and dont grab a thing. again, ask him what is the problem with the tires, if it is the terrain he is riding, is it too soft, or too rooty? is he asking for speed tires? or grippy tires? (The original tires of this bike are not great, I've seen them and they have very little grip.) For me, tires are important because they can make you slip all the time in humid and rooty conditions and you can fall a lot. You might want to get tires with a lot of grip and allow the bike to advance without hesitating on "is it gonna grab or not?"

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/maxxis-minion-dhf-mtb-tyre-exo-tr/rp-prod149555?gs=1&sku=sku545269&istCompanyId=64a3dd19-9b5e-411d-a4f3-46f21c06bfee&istFeedId=504a9a46-d791-4ab6-bde1-bd49b4b78bc6&istItemId=iwxxialaw&istBid=t&pgrid=53546199518&ptaid=pla-424288834263&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=PLA+All+Products&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid|sv58zieAv_dc|pcrid|253668879799|pkw||pmt||prd|545269US&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgNXtBRC6ARIsAIPP7RsbvGDXWN5Z_gQMqPkpkkamCyorYg05zbvjGI_9Ai3UhDg2-27vrOoaAuWMEALw_wcB

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Brakes: Brakes are usually not well adjusted. Check them. If they are hydraulic brakes, they need to be bleed. The pads might need to be changed and the rotors need to be cleaned with alcohol. (Be carefull when you oil the bike, if oil gets into the break system they stop working completely) Maintenance is usually number one with brakes. The original breaks of this bike are decent.

"Fork" If he is asking for a new fork, then he is getting better. That fork in that model if I am not mistaken is a coil fork. This fork offers very little adjustment possibilities. The fork should be fine for his weight and size but if after adjusting he still doesn't like it. Then I would say this is one major expense. Whatever you put in this bike, he is not gonna be happy. Once you feel the suspension is not working well for you, then you are most likely asking for a new bike... Sorry but that's what this is. Forks are too expensive. For me, personally, I would look into a new bike if I have to change the fork. This goes well with the answer to question number 1, clipless pedals. Usually when you start riding harder and going faster on rough terrains, the suspension does not react well, the rear is too bouncy (on short travel bikes and hard tails), and your feet are coming out of the pedals. These are all signs of "I need a new bike".

I am surprised he has not spoken about a dropper post. If he is running faster, going downhill faster and feeling the pain in his behind, he would be asking for a way to mitigate that problem. A dropper post is a must once you start riding harder...

My recommendation would be to talk to him and find out more about the issues he is having. Understand him more in how he is riding, conditions of the terrain and his personal experience. Then, from that point see what you can change. I am guessing tires would be the first thing, pedals second. Change the rear tire first. That is a $70 to $75 expense that might just do the trick (if you install them yourself).

I have a friend who bought a Marin 7, 6 months ago, and just last week he got a $2100 giant full suspension. He sold this marin. That is because he was riding harder and changing one or two things weren't' going to improve the whole thing... Sorry...

Look into Marin bikes. They are very affordable bikes... I would tell him to get a 27.5 instead of a 29er. He will have more control and enjoy more a 27.5. I am 200 pounds and 6'2" and I ride 27.5 on a XL frame. They are great and give me enough flexibility in the trail. I do not race so I leave 29er for people who race.

I hope this helps and I am sorry if my answer is not something you were expecting to hear.

Btw. Hydraulic forks run around $300 I believe. Half of the cost of the marin. Not worth it. instead look at full suspensions bikes like the ones below.

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https://www.the-house.com/qgtve27504rd18zz-gt-bikes.html?utm_source=shopzilla&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign=shopcomparefeed&CAWELAID=600004150004501914

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https://www.bikebling.com/Marin-Hawk-Hill-JR-Kids-Bike-p/marin19-hawkhill-jr.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjwgNXtBRC6ARIsAIPP7Rt5lrqMivkRN6Emq_76ha_9bsDFLRutqcQADN1q08K4CqU5zvVum_saAolfEALw_wcB&Click=120514&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine

Found 'em!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003Q3SNKW/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/190-8449799-8472463

Fyxation Gates slims. I use them with Hold Fast straps and they work flawlessly.

suggestions on a cheap seat??

how about this for a saddle ? http://www.citygrounds.com/crew-bike-co/crew-bike-co-street-saddle-w-crmo-rails-3772

and these for straps http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00933WSTQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

and these for pedals http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EMYUNC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

There's no right or wrong bike to commute on; essentially, anything is going to be more efficient than walking, and less costly than driving.

I think your bicycle looks a fine commuter; keep the same tires until they wear out, maybe put a rack on it to hold what you need to carry (better than a backpack), and maybe get some cheap pedals with straps like this

Power Grips

I see what you mean. Yeah I guess by default the clip side is up whether you want it or not LOL. I just enjoyed the convenience of having a pedal - any pedal - in the likely event that I forgot my biking shoes. What flats did you get and how did they work out for you?

Try these ($25)
http://www.amazon.com/Fyxation-Gates-Slim-Platform-Pedal/dp/B009V7M75Y/

or these :
http://www.amazon.com/VP-Components-LB-Aluminum-Replaceable/dp/B00EE7YKYC

or even these ($13):
http://www.amazon.com/Retrospec-Bicycles-Profile-Freestyle-Multi-Use/dp/B00NHP0FH8

The thing about flat pedals with pins is that they will be really grippy but will shred your shins if you slip off the pedal. You may want to take the pins out or find some that have softer pins, or go with all-plastic ones like those fyxations. I ride metal flats with sharp pins and grippy rubber shoes on my MTB.

XT Loveliness

I've been using power grips (just the straps, not these pedals) for commuting and couldn't imagine any other way. I often wear dress shoes with a flat leather sole that slips right off the pedals, and these let me ride in anything.

Probably a really dumb question but, I'm new to Mountain Biking and just got my first "real" bike last week.

The thing came with shit plastic pedals that I need to replace. What should I be looking for in a pedal? Is there really that big of a difference between these Shimano pedals for $60 and these DiamondBack Pedals for $15?

The DiamondBack pedals have 2 sizes listed. How do I know what size I need?

I was in the market for a set but the only ones at my shop were awful M324 knockoffs. No way in hell was I paying $40 for those, or even $30 if they're still there.

Don't do a combo. They won't be grippy enough for flats.

https://www.amazon.com/Race-Face-Chester-Pedal-Purple/dp/B018J1IX3C/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1502130991&sr=1-3&keywords=raceface+chester

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M520-Clipless-Pedals-White/dp/B000WYAENC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1502131024&sr=8-2&keywords=shimano%2Bclipless%2Bmountain%2Bbike%2Bpedals&th=1&psc=1

Definitely flat platform. I ended up ordering these, but there's still several hours to cancel and order something else before it'd ship if you have any other reccomendations. I wasn't really interested in spikes because I didn't want to tear up my shoes or shins.

OP, i just got Chesters yesterday. I'll be taking them out on my bike tomorrow to some black diamond XC trails...but they look gnar as fuck! i'll report back. i got them on amazon for les than $50 shipped

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018J1IZ8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One of mine has this one.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LCSO2C6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1

I wouldn't call it "upgrade" but at least you can choose a color. It's working okay but I haven't put on a lot of miles. (I have 7 bikes so some of them aren't used as much as others.)

Nashbar has a few of them. If you want a platform, try this one.

http://www.nashbar.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10053_10052_549650_-1___204720

I've used "Rodeo" and "Soho" pedals from Nashbar. It's inexpensive (esp. when they do 20-25% off), and they back it up with decent warranty.

my Virtue Truck with accessories from left to right:

Thule Yepp Maxi Rack Mount Child Seat

Thule Yepp Maxi Easyfit Adapter

Schwinn Kids Bike Helmet - Teddy Bear

Brooks Saddle (used - exact make unknown)

Velo Orange Copehagen Double Kick

RockBros MTB Pedals

Origin8 Urban-Pro Riser Handlebar

Origin8 Time Clock Bell

Cork Chop Bicycle Grips

21x15" Wald 157 Giant Delivery Basket

15x15” Bungee Net

Kobra Ultra Bright Bike Light - 1200 Lumens


I love everything currently on her, but may end up going a bit wider on the bars now that I'm riding the rig fully loaded.

Yea i completely get that. I don't disagree. Different movements use a different set of muscles so it will take time for my body to develop/adjust to mountain biking.

Here's the bike: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/elite_trail.htm

I got it some years ago, back in ~2012? Honestly dont remember what size I have. It's either the 15.5" or 17.5" since i'm 5'9". I've upgraded a few parts. I've put on

• Raceface Chester pedals
  
• Raceface Atlas Handlebars
  
• Raceface Half Nelson lock grips
  
• Truvativ Stem
  
• Wake Bar end plugs (not really a performance upgrade lmao)

I use diagonal straps for commuting and I think they're a good compromise. But fitting big winter boots can be problematic.

RaceFace Chester Pedal Turquoise, One Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKV7VH5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NPzBCbZVPCRZN

Nah, def need the turqouise raceface chester pedals. FOOKER also makes a similar set with a bit darker teal. I own the cookers and my feet stick to them on my gravel bike.

Hold Fast or [Burro](
http://www.burrobags.com/store/category/pedal_straps/) or Reload or Retrogression are all solid (word on the street anyway). Hold Fasts and Burros are pretty much the standards but straps aren't terribly complicated so there are plenty of alternatives. Some people really like Power Grips/Feetbelts although they're not my favorites. So many delightful ways to spend money!

I use the Diamondback Trace Dual Sport Clipless Pedals.. they are relatively light, and offer clipped riding on one side and mountainbiking/regular shoes riding on the other. Extremely well made!

https://www.amazon.com/Diamondback-Trace-Clipless-Pedals-Silver/dp/B00MJYQN0Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469977747&sr=8-1&keywords=diamondback+dual+pedals

Wife has the ezs. Supposed to be for lighter / smaller riders but usually available for $59. You can find Keo classics for $100 online. Keo Max for 139 usually but sometimes cheaper. So worth it.

Keo 2 max in Amazon @ 74. Look Cycle Keo 2 Max Road Pedals Black, One Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QXLI98/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_L22yxb07AD59G

Keo 2 classic @ 59. Look Cycle Keo Classic 2 Pedal Black/Grey, One Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GA2JIL4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_532yxb0YAMTSH

And comes with cleats.

I really like the MKS RMX pedals.

Yes, there are many different kinds of clipless pedals. Popular options include SPD ( a system by Shimano), eggbeaters ( by crankbrothers), and Time ATACs.

Take a look at MTB flats! The pins help "grab" a shoe and provide better grip. In terms of flat pedals they would be considered on the very aggressive end. They might tear up your shoes a bit over time but will proved wayyyy more grip than you're currently getting. There are tons of options out there in between crappy pedals and MTB though.

I use these on my fixed gear bike with pedal straps:

https://www.amazon.com/Fyxation-Gates-Platform-Pedal-Black/dp/B005EMYUNC/ref=sr_1_6?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1473969975&sr=1-6&keywords=origin+8+pedals

They aren't amazing but for $20 they're pretty good.

What pedals did you throw on?
I've been eyeing some cheap Origin8 ones but I'm open to any suggestions.

These pedals with these straps

The A530, M324, A600, PDT400, M545, and M647 are some good options here. Some are one-sided SPD, some have combination platform-clips on both sides.

Those HT AE01 look pretty cool, but MSRP of $150!! Holy cow!

I really like the MKS RMX "sneaker" flats for my commuter. $26, bombproof, and really comfortable in all kinds of footwear. No pins, but enough grip to keep your feet in place, IMO.

EDIT: I should add that the MKS RMX pedals may not be the best choice for rainy climates. They are great for me here in San Diego, or in Phoenix where I used to live, but probably they aren't grippy enough for real rainy weather riding. I've heard good things about the Redline Lo-Profile pedals with the sealed bearings for only $40. if I lived in a real rainy place, I'd consider switching to those.

In mountain biking we have pedals that lowkey have spikes on them .
Here is what they look like https://www.amazon.com/Race-Face-Chester-Pedal-Green/dp/B018J1IZ8K/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539959688&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=raceface+chester+pedals&dpPl=1&dpID=41l81DS0uLL&ref=plSrch

Replying again to make sure you see it: I'm pretty sure they're these.

I've used a set of Rockbros that look basically identical to #2 (https://www.amazon.com/Rockbros-Bicycle-Pedals-Platform-Cycling/dp/B00LCSO2C6). No complaints for the price. Light weight, cro-mo axles, cartridge bearings, good grip, decent size platform. But definitely lower quality than the Wellgo MG-1 pedals I have on my commuter (which only cost about 30% more).

First, you're right, mountain bike shoes are easier to walk in.

That said, I also recommend Crank Brothers' "Mallet" pedals because you can use them with regular shoes in an emergency or for a short ride.

http://www.amazon.com/Crank-Brothers-Mallet-Black-Pedals/dp/B004XNFOAG/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1417192472&sr=1-3&keywords=crank+brothers+mallet

So, I just bought a road bike (Trek 2300). My first bike in over 10 years.
I'm pumped about getting started and I have been trying to figure out which type of shoes I should actually get.
I will be training for a few sprint triathlons this year, however I am just aiming to finish not place. I will also be using biking as a hobby/exercise throughout the year. however my training areas will be mostly mixed with roads so i will have to deal with traffic as well. In addition I might be doing some walking around with my occasional biking around town.
Natuarally I would love to get two pairs of shoes and pedals, however my bank account doesnt seem to want to cooperate.
For reference I have been looking at these shoes and pedals: http://www.giro.com/us_en/privateer-r-hv-18.html
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005DVDCVK/ref=twister_dp_update?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
or
http://www.giro.com/us_en/products/men/cycling-shoes/road/apeckx-ii-hv-18.html
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SPD-SL-PD-R-540-Black/dp/B004JKEG3O/ref=sr_1_4?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1483905260&sr=1-4&keywords=road%2Bbike%2Bpedals&th=1&psc=1
I have strange wide feet, and I have read that the Giro HV line is excellent for that.
My question is for an all around shoe will going with the mountain shoe really hold me back that much when riding around?

Don't you turn your foot on the pedal to get out? I have the Shimano XT T780 with very basic Shimano SPD-shoes and I just rotate my foot on the pedal a bit to get out. Works like a charm and in the emergency I had with these pedals they have release my feet properly. I never fell over in more than a year. I'm pretty cautious though. As soon as there is a situation where I might have to react switfly, I release one foot, just in case I might have to stop.

http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Alloy-Pedals-Straps-Silver/dp/B002BW3HKU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1333484307&sr=8-3 these :)