Best bike wheels according to redditors

If you're talking about higher end stuff maybe, but not sure if that applies when comparing with very basic/entry level stuff, e.g. Mavic R-Sys are 1295g a pair, but there's plenty of cheap road wheelsets on Amazon etc for 2200g+ a pair like these

Also consider the wheels on Walmart mountain bikes, they have aluminium rims but are ridiculously heavy, and it's far from the case all of that is in the hub and axle.

To second /u/rhizopogon, the brake-to-rim spacing is important - you might need longer reach brakes if you go for 700c wheels. Also, depending on your bike's rear cassette and hub dimension, you might not ever be able to find a new set of wheels that fit your bike without having to spread the rear fork (called cold-setting, people do it no problem, it might damage the frame if you spread too far).

Since you're on a budget, I think going for 700c wheels might not be the best choice - especially if it requires new brakes, or potentially cold-setting your frame.

I just bought a nice new wheelset for my 1981 road bike through my local bike shop for $130, my old brakes fit to the rim just fine. It looks like you can get the set cheaper on amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Master-Weinmann-LP18-Set/dp/B0040DRGB4

They're not the lightest, but I like them. With these old bikes, its tough to do a total overhaul since you have to drill out parts of the frame to accommodate new bolt sizes, get special longer reach brakes, etc, so personally I wouldn't splurge. Just double check your wheel hub width, and confirm this wheelset will do it for you.

You'd be better off with 32 spokes and 3x lacing, something like Shimano hubs on Mavic Open Sport rims. I've got similar on my commuting bike, pretty indestructible and you can easily get any spares if you need.

this should do the trick. there are a couple warehouse deals for the set <100$

Grab these: https://www.amazon.com/Queen-Bike-Clincher-Wheelset-Shimano/dp/B01823A2FE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525642770&sr=8-3&keywords=carbon+wheelset
Amazon stocks them, so if you have prime they should be at your door in ~2 days. Solid build quality, relatively light and aero. I have a set on my bike right now. They are unbranded Superteam wheels. Can't exactly speak to their durability as I've only had them a couple of days, but I have heard good things. When it comes to Chinese wheels though, it really is a try at your own risk type deal.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761QYCKM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In that case look into getting a freewheel set by sta tru for about $50 they'll be a little heavy but you should be able to thread your old freewheel (the back cogs) on to it and not have to worry about building out a new drive train.

A KMC Z Bicycle Bike Chain is like $10 +- and a Sta Tru STW 26 X 1.5 BO Silver Rear Mountain Bike Wheel and get back on the road again.

This one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761QYCKM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Componentwise it's pretty good for it's price. Three things I don't like:

1. Wheels: they are pretty low end. See details here. In this price range you can't really ask for more but I want you to consider that the wheels are of equal importance than the groupset.
   
   
2. The saddle: seems like an absolute tr*sh saddle with way too much padding to me. You might have to find another one if you don't seem to get comfortable with it.
   
   
3. The gear ratio: it's a 11-25 cassette. If this is good or bad mainly depends on what kind of riding you want to do. If you want to do lots of climbing you are probably overgeared. Especially, if you can't put out at least 250 watts for 1 hour. For more of a climbing oriented gear range aim for a 11-28 cassette.
   
   Also you have to be able to do basic maintenance like adjusting the shifters because you can't rely on your local shop. If all of this isn't a concern for you then go for it!

yes! ok, so in that case you want something like this. for example, here is one.

you'll also need the little tool to remove the freewheel so you can transfer it to the new wheel (there's one on the page you linked to in "also buy"). be warned - they can be a real pig to undo. you may also need a "chain whip".

(i should say i am just someone who's owned bikes - i don't work in a bike shop, so you may want to check with someone else. but that's what i'd get.)

I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.

FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6

UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR

Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ

KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M

Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI

Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI

Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS

XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW

​

Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette

SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/

JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO

My main issue is I use the bike to ride to the gym and back (3mi total), and maybe some small errands. Feels silly to drop $200 into the wheels for that. THose TB14s will have to do.

Thoughts on these?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01823A2FE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I have Mavic CXP22 rims.

I don't plan on sinking a ton of money into this bike. I want to keep it super simple because I will just be riding this to and from work every day.

• Wheels
  
  
• Cranks
  
  And that is all I have figured out for this build. This is my first fixed gear.

You can get reliable wheels for less, like this one. Carry extra spokes and tensioning tools so that you can quickly address truing issues before they're problems, and fix them as soon as failures occur so that they don't turn into major failures.

I'm not an expert but I don't see why you couldn't just lace a single speed hub into your 27 1/4 wheel? For the record a 27 1/4" wheel is usually an ISO size of 630 mm. A 700c wheel is an ISO of 622mm so there is literally only 8 mm of diameter difference between the two. You can drop to a 700c and still keep the same tire width. If you want to stick with that size here's a wheelset for cheap that should work

So I have the diamondback Haanjo Tero, and love riding it on the dirt trails near me. I was thinking I could get a new Wheelset for road use, but I'm having trouble finding one that will fit with the disc brakes, does anyone have any insight into this that would simplify it?

The wheelset I was looking at is this one Amazon

Would I need anything else (besides the groupset and brake discs)?

Anyone have any thoughts on these Chinese aero wheels: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01823A2FE/ref=twister_dp_update?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I can't justify $2k for some name brand ones for my cat 5 self, still running stock wheels. These seem decently light, probably better aerodynamics than what I have now.

I didn't use a guide, mostly just built it to how I liked it. Here are my parts though, don't hesitate to ask any questions!

Front hub motor with wheel and tire. Includes throttle, controller with bag, PAS (pedal assist), and 2 ebrakes that can be hooked up to caliper brakes.

Headlight with switch, also has a horn.

Taillight that I connected to the headlight switch wiring.

I can't link the exact battery, because it was a one-off item. For the motor I listed above, you'll need a 36v battery with 13Ah+.

I also used dielectric grease to help water/rust proof the connectors, silicone sealant for the case of every part. To hide the wiring, I drilled holes in the frame and routed wires through.

Link

They're a $140 wheelset man, you can't get quality for that. If you're going to get something on the lower end of the cost spectrum I think you'd be better off getting something a brand like Shimano feels comfortable enough to put their name on.

Think about it like this. You're going out to buy vodka and you find a 1 liter bottle of Phillips. Not the best stuff in the world, but you're comfortable with the price, and it'll taste ok mixed with some coke and get the job done. On your way to the register you see a 2 liter bottle of mouthwash for 30% more, and not that pussy no alcohol shit either. Which do you choose? This is how I see the question you posed.

My experience also. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761QYCKM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Paid $135 about a year ago. This battery was about $170. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1N3J1W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ebay was cheaper.

Thanks for the explanation. So to clarify, the wheelset/hub and the cassette I linked to should be compatible with each other; and I just need to make sure my derailleur works with the cassette?

And just curious, how do you know that my current hub has a freewheel, and how do you know that the new cassette is compatible with the new hub?

Can I use these wheels:

http://www.amazon.com/27in-Road-ISO-Diameter-630/dp/B0040DRGB4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420479158&sr=8-1&keywords=27+inch+road+bike+wheelset

with this cassette:

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-TZ20-Tourney-Freewheel-14-28T/dp/B001G0X2DA/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_img_y

Ya you either need a new 700c rear wheel or to lace a new rim to the current hub. . Not sure if your bike has a cassette or a freewheel. It says 6 speed gearing so my money is on a 6 speed freewheel. If that’s the case you need a wheel set up for a freewheel and also a freewheel remover if you are gonna do it yourself.

I’m gonna throw an upgrade at you to consider.

29er wheelset (same size as 700c but called 29er because it’s a mountain bike rim.)

Mountain bike wheels are a little beefier and will take more punishment. This one is cheap and comes with tires already.

Mavic Rim 29er Mountain Bike Wheels with Disc Brake Shimano Hubs PLUS Free Continental 29x2.2" Race King Tires and Tubes! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDTR27Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SlF9AbR7A1F1B

9 speed cassette
Shimano HG400 9 Speed Mountain Bike Cassette - CS-HG400-9 (11-36) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073CFBPF9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_boF9Ab48BVPKH

SRAM X.5 Rear Trigger Shifter for 9 Speed Drivetrains, Black, 9 Speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063HG45Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bpF9AbA9TRZ94

SRAM X5 Medium Cage Silver 9 Speed Rear Derailleur https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00554231U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QqF9AbC18FV41

KMC KMC023 X9.93 Bicycle Chain (9-Speed, 1/2 x 11/128-Inch, 116L, Silver/Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYJF2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lrF9AbDFWEG5T

So basically $280 would get you new wheels that are tougher and come with bigger cushier tires, and allow you to upgrade to disc brakes in the future. Also we’re scraping the terrible 6 speed freewheel and upgrading to a 9 speed cassette. It will shift better, give you better low end torque and high end speed. The wheel set also allows you to upgrade to 10, 11 or even 12 speed but 9 should be sufficient.

Mavic Rim 29er Mountain Bike Wheels with Disc Brake Shimano Hubs PLUS Free Continental 29x2.2" Race King Tires and Tubes! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDTR27Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lZ-8Ab5182CY3

Found these just looking around on amazon reviews are good would you trust these ?

Check out these for $94:

http://www.amazon.com/ZeroLite-Road-Comp-Wheel-Black/dp/B0081UW9VO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405107745&sr=8-2&keywords=wheelset

What's your opinion on these?

WheelMaster Weinmann LP18 Wheel Set

Ah, so the spokes don't come with the rims like in this amazon listing?

looking at this -> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YJ2MJA

It is this listing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01823A2FE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

They are exactly the same, the box and manual are from super team and they sent me the link.

New here. Front wheel recently stolen, seeking help confirming correct replacement size.

Remaining rear wheel: Weinmann Rm19 27 x 1.25 X28c/350C ETRTO 630x19

Would this be a proper replacement? Any help or suggestions super appreciated.

Thanks.

http://sheldonbrown.com/upgrade.html

Has some advice for respacing and getting new wheels to fit.

You can get some new 27 wheels

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AO5FAQ

but they're going to be cheep machine built single walled rims and I can't recommend them.

Until recently I thought Velocity still made the Dyad (good solid touring quality rim) in 27", but I can't find any in-stock.

They do have

synergy and aero rims in 27" which are double walled and availble in 36 spoke count

They also have a fully built wheel, handbuilt 36 spokes would come out to about $100. Would still use a freewheel so you're existing drivetrain should be compatible, but frame spacing is 130mm which is probably wider than what you have (120 or 126). Take a look at sheldon brown's frame-spacing or you're LBS 'might' do it (don't be surprised if the don't though because of liability issues)

What you will need to look for is a rear wheel with a threaded freewheel hub rather than a cassette hub if you want to use your existing freewheel which is the set of gears on the rear wheel. A freewheel has the ratchet mechanism as part of the gears and threads on to the hub whereas a cassette hub only has splines and the ratchet mechanism is inside the hub.

Removing and installing the freewheel requires a freewheel tool.

A wheel like this would work: http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Tru-Silver-Alloy-Freewheel-700X20/dp/B004YJ2GJ6/

Less expensive wheel with single wall rim: http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Tru-Silver-ST725-Wheel-700X25/dp/B004YJ2MJA

You may want to true the wheel upon arrival whichever one you get.

BTW, what do you mean when you say you broke the rim?

i actually dont have anything to measure the dropout with, i used to have a tape measure but its not around now.

do these wheels work.id like something from amazon so i can get it quick

https://www.amazon.com/Aeromax-Alloy-Wheelset-Road-Wheels/dp/B002XOJD9A/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_200_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G5S6FJ6QKTMME7640T81

You need a 700c or 29" wheel with quick release hubs. The wheels you linked to would fit but are unnecessarily fancy for a heavy hybrid bike such as yours. I might recommend cheaper and less eye-catching wheels like these or these.

Don't forget that you'll need tubes, tires, rim tape, disc rotors, and a cassette.

Need some help in picking a new wheel set for my bike.

I have a 29” hard tail bought from Bikes Direct. Been a great bike so far and I knew when buying it that the wheels/hubs would be the first to replace.

I have rode it pretty aggressively so far and I’m right at 300lbs. Having some trouble with the rear hub already and just want to go ahead with the upgrade. Read a lot so far on what options I might have, but nothing is better than community feedback.

I mainly ride intermediate trails with downhill mixed in on occasion.

Budget is $500-$600 would be great to spend less though!

So far I’m looking at the following:

Hunt Wheels TrailWide - I haven’t found a supplier in the US yet

Stan’s No Tubes Flow MK3

Mavic 29er Rim with Shimano Hubs
https://www.amazon.com/Mavic-29er-Wheels-Shimano-Continental/dp/B01HDTR27Y

Disclaimer: I am still very new to the gear side of riding so please understand I know that I still don’t have a great handle on all the terminology or even the specifications. That’s why I came here for advice.

I have 600 to 800 miles on my superteams. No complaints so far. I definitely have not been easy on them, and they’re holding up pretty well.

Superteam Carbon Fiber Road Bike Wheels 700C Clincher Wheelset 50mm Matte 23 Width (Transparent Decal) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CJNDEQC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FMyvDb3XV7NVX

Here's a set with Mavic for a little more than $100. I haven't shopped wheels for a couple years, but there was a time when everyone was blowing out rim brake Deore wheel sets. A deeper search would probably turn some up. That said, the Mavic/Deore wheels would cost a good $180 in parts. All ya gotta do is seat the spoke heads and tweak the tension. I'd prefer Sun rims over Mavic. Last I checked they can take about 15kgf more tension as the alloy isn't as brittle.

Good news! I only need one wheel, the rear:
http://i.imgur.com/Wi2krBs.jpg

So I need a cassette and a wheel. Haven't taken the bike out of my car yet or done any clean up, but I'm probably going to pick up a new saddle as well. That or reupholster the one thats there (wouldn't be my first time reupholstering, though in the past the seats were from cars!)

The front wheel is good, the tire is flat. I'll check tomorrow to see if the tube is any good, or if I need to replace it.

As far as the rear wheel, any reason I shouldn't order something like this wheel paired with this freewheel cassette?

Cheap, but seems to have worked out for like trail riding for others (which is about as hardcore as I'll get).

Thanks again for your help so far!

Hey /r/FGB[1] , I really want to build my own bike this summer and started putting together a list cost of parts. So far this is what i have,
Frame/Fork: $200 (crew district) http://www.citygrounds.com/crew-bike-co/crew-bike-co-district-track-frameset-2016-4501/color/CELESTE[2]
Wheelset: $150 http://www.amazon.com/ZeroLite-Road-Comp-Wheel-Black/dp/B0081UW9VO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463699327&sr=8-1&keywords=wheelset[3]
Crankset:$70 http://www.amazon.com/State-Bicycle-Single-Crankset-Galaxy/dp/B00I96EE6I/ref=sr_1_7?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1463699471&sr=1-7&keywords=crankset+fixed[4]
I realize I'll still need a bottom bracket, seat, stem, handlebars, and a brake and those will probably add up to another $100. Are there some parts I'm forgetting to list? And also, I'm already over $500 which is pretty expensive. What I don't understand is that the complete bike from citygrounds with the crew district frame is only $379. This seems like a really big difference in price, are the parts on the complete bike from CG that bad?

Thanks for the info, so should I stay with the freewheel or switch to cassette since I am replacing both parts, cassette seems cheaper but I am not sure if it will work?

Am I on the right track with these setups below?


Freewheel:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-HG37-Tourney-Freewheel-13-28T/dp/B001IORDH0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427163&sr=8-3&keywords=shimano+freewheel
http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Tru-Silver-Freewheel-Release-26X1-5-Inch/dp/B004YJ2O48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427274&sr=8-1&keywords=26+inch+bike+rim+rear

Cassette
http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Nutted-Cruiser-Freewheel-1-75-Inch/dp/B003RLL5VM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427463&sr=8-2&keywords=26+inch+bike+rim+rear+cassette
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CS-HG20-7-Speed-Cassette-12-28T/dp/B003ZM9QQY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427489&sr=8-4&keywords=shimano+7+speed+cassette

> Just to be sure, I looked at the freewheel hubs and wheelsets in local e-shops, they're all 130

Huh


http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/wheel-master-alloy-sf-rear-hub-36h-126mm-sealed-bearing-qr-black?gclid=CjwKEAjwya-6BRDR3p6FuY2-u3MSJAD1paxT8wBnwk9VQ6Em86ERmXGa3vQFOqaKxwUuIesXLAC71BoCfvTw_wcB

http://www.modernbike.com/product-2126187580?gclid=CjwKEAjwya-6BRDR3p6FuY2-u3MSJAD1paxTN44_FNkVm61aQiu5UYy17jHIK-csziK5q_R7K16E4BoCo-Tw_wcB

http://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Master-Bicycle-Freewheel-Silver/dp/B000AO5FAQ?ie=UTF8&keywords=freewheel%20bicycle%20wheel&qid=1464631004&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

I would expect all MTB freewheel hubs to be 135 today, all road 126.

I got the kick bike used from Craigslist. I used a kit off EBay to do one of them. The other I did with Alibaba kit which was a little cheaper but was essentially the exact same.

I used this kit for a Schwinn kick bike with a true 26” front wheel. Worked great. I mounted the battery over the rear wheel using a rack and some engineering ingenuity. Didn’t install the pedals assist (there are no pedals....) and used the thumb throttle only. If you are installing a kick bike brand scooted, you may need to get a 700 size tire or 29” tire, depending on the kick bike model. You must match the tire size or risk a ground clearance issue with the board.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761QYCKM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I’ll look for a picture of my build. Please be warned it’s wrapped in cheetah fabric and playa dust from burning man.....

Even DIY on the cheap, $200 is too low. The cheapest build is going to look something like this:

• Donor bike from yard sale, thrift store, or Craigslist - budget $25
  
• Inexpensive front-hub motor kit from Amazon - budget $165
  
• 2x 18V tool batteries - budget $35
  
• 3D printed battery adapter - budget six-pack of good beer to your closest maker friend
  
  That's $237 total, and that doesn't include any "oops" money. You will screw something up. Count on it.
  
  Save up $400 and you've got yourself a reasonable starting budget for a first build, but you'll still have to get by on a hacked together tool-battery solution or cheap lipos. Batteries are easily the most expensive part of any build, and there is no cheap way around it if you want lithium. And you do want lithium.
  
  A good strategy is to build a decent "base" e-bike with a frame and motor that you can work with, then add a better battery later. Unit Pack Power has decent packs at good prices.
  
  https://unitpackpower.aliexpress.com/store/group/Down-tube-battery/1178407_514085584.html?spm=2114.12010615.pcShopHead_5960954.1_6_0

Is it a 2017 frame or earlier? The 2017 uses knot boost but the spacers make it work woth 135’s. FWIW, this is the set I bought for my new Ogre ebike build. They have held up well over the 2000 miles I have put on them. On the cheaper side. I’m sure there are much better options, but these were a great bang for the buck option for me.

I am building a SS/fix for myself, do you think these are a good buy?

You can get a full set including new skewers here: https://www.evanscycles.com/m-part-road-allen-key-security-skewers-EV173719

Or you could buy them, use the key and return for a refund if your conscience allows.

Edit: Single key available here: https://www.amazon.co.uk/M-Part-Replacement-security-Part-skewer/dp/B077GZMY74

You'll want something like this Wheelmaster

You can get the front and rear together for about $90, and they generally get good reviews.

Also note, if the bike has friction shifters you could step up to a 7 speed cassette from the 6.

Thanks for your feedback! It's a double walled rim (one of these) with a cloth rim strip. The rim is a little deeper than I'm used to, though, so padding a little more might help!

JAXPETY 36V 500W Electric Bicycle Cycle 26" E Bike Front Wheel Ebike Hub Motor Conversion Kit Hub Motor Wheel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761QYCKM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GCQ5CbGXWS5BH


I think some of them will need pedal assistance

yes, https://www.amazon.co.uk/M-Part-Replacement-security-Part-skewer/dp/B077GZMY74

> any 700c wheel would fit

Yes, it does fit. The dropout is 126mm. You can get 700c freewheel hub wheel and it's usually 126mm dropout.

ex.

https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Master-Weinmann-LP18-Set/dp/B006FCDMT8

700c with cassette is 130mm. You can flex the frame and stick it in. You'd probably need 4mm spacer for 7 speed cassette to make it work with existing derailleur but it should work.

Most bikes shops should have an inexpensive wheel, like $40-50 range - machine built. I've bought a freewheel hub rear wheel from my LBS for $40, and I think I had an option of 700c or 27".

Removing the freewheel requires a tool/adapter. If you have a busted wheel, if I were you, I'd rather bring the busted wheel and see how much it costs to replace it.

EDIT:

If the original wheel is 27", you'd have to replace BOTH wheels and you have to deal with the brake caliper reach. If you are not lucky, you'd have to replace the brakes to convert from 27" to 700c. So, it gets 'pensive.

What do you think about these off amazon for 100?