Best body repair sanders according to redditors

Soooooo, the sanding discs shown in the video are pretty pricey but definitely get the job done. Are there alternatives to those though?

P500 = $37

P800 = $34

P3000 = $68

Granted, youll be getting a decent amount (50 per P500 and P800 but P3000 is 15 discs). Everything else I am finding is mixed reviews of good and bad. I imagine, depending upon how bad the oxidation is, that youll only need one disc.

You can buy everything online, though it's easier to go to a harbor freight with a coupon if you have one. There are plenty of polishers you can buy online of course, but none are as cheap (at least with decent quality) as the harbor freight model. You can of course buy a much better polisher at your local lowes / home depot however unless you have a lot more use for it it's probably not worth it over the harbor freight one (a good polisher will cost you $200+). Everything else you can find at any auto parts store, or maybe even walmart.

Here's some links

• Polisher - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-variable-speed-dual-action-polisher-69924.html (no matter what you want a dual action polisher, as other kinds require more skill to avoid damaging your paint)
  
• Cutting pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-compoundcutting-foam-pad-60311.html
  
• Polishing pad - http://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-polishing-foam-pad-60309.html
  
• Ultimate compound - http://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM?sa-no-redirect=1 (you can skip if your paint isn't bad, no bad swirl marks or scratches)
  
• Ultimate polish - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004HCOE8Q/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_1?pf_rd_p=1944687402&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001O7PNNM&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1P9X3VP7TVA943BYC6C7
  
• Sanding block - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQYZ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (if you're going to use touch up paint)
  
• Microfiber rags - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANZHG7C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Wax applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051MYL8E/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
• Duragloss - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002W0ZNIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Color matched touch up paint (if needed) - http://www.automotivetouchup.com/
  
• Detail clay - http://smile.amazon.com/Simoniz-S57-Perfect-Finish-Detailing/dp/B0081OSRQQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1414207600&sr=1-2&keywords=clay+bar
  
• Foam applicator pads - http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZPW/ref=ox_ya_os_product_refresh_T1
  
  Basic steps:
  
  

1. Start with touch ups if needed. Apply touchup paint to chips with a toothpick, in small amounts. Let it dry and do another one, build it up until it's above the level of the surrounding paint (may take many coats). Let it dry at least several days and make sure it hasn't sunk in. After it's dried for several days, use some water and the sanding block to gently sand them down flush with the rest of the paint. It will look bad, don't worry. Give the paint a few weeks to cure before moving on.
   
2. Wash the whole car with dawn dish soap and let it dry. Mix up some dish soap (maybe 1 tablespoon) with water in a spray bottle. Spray a section with the soapy water and then rub it down with the clay. This is a very mild abrasive which will remove contaminates, tar, bugs, etc and give you smooth clean paint. Wash car after.
   
3. Use the rubbing compound with the cutting pad everywhere you can. Don't try to get into tight areas or spots where you can't put the pad flush, because you'll shred the foam pad. Do the tough spots by hand with foam pads. Wash the car to remove any residue.
   
4. Repeat with the polish pad and polish, same technique as with cutting.
   
5. Apply the duragloss to a clean car by hand with the cloth applicators. Use sparingly, then wipe off with microfiber rags.
   
   You are done! In most environments the duragloss will last 6+ months. If you keep your car protected with it, you won't need to do the cutting/polishing again (or at least, not for a while).
   
   The trickiest part of the whole process is the compounding and polishing. Here are some helpful videos.
   
   

• How to use a dual action polisher - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xrse_DBaUbc https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5MYqiBLIU9c
  
• How to touch up paint - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15T08rfuTSg
  
• How to clay your car - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqW1nzgyMNA
  
  And that's about it! It's easier if you don't do touch ups, but I figure if I'm going to put this much work in it, might as well get them. And if you do it right (with careful application and then sanding) the touch ups look nearly flawless (most look terrible because people don't bother to sand them flush).
  
  edit: two other tips...
  
  

1. If you have black rubber trim, say around the windows, mirrors, door handles, etc you either need to keep the polisher away from it or put masking tape on top of it. The rubbing compound and polisher will scuff up softer materials like rubber and it will look bad.
   
2. When working with the polisher, always turn it off while still on the surface of the car (preferably still moving it) and let it slow down before lifting it off. If you life the polisher off at full speed it might send the polishing pad flying (it's held on with sturdy velcro). When this happens the velcro is basically shot and you're going to need to get a new pad. If you make sure you always turn it off while still in contact with the car, and you don't try to put it on any sharp corners or narrow areas where you can't get good flat pressure across the whole pad, you should be able to do the entire car with a single pad.

If it's metal of some sort, you can produce a mirror finish by following these steps.

• Step 1: Wet sand using 1000-2000 grit sand paper
  
• Step 2: Apply Blue Magic Metal Polish (or similar)
  
• Step 3: Apply several light coats of clear paint
  
  Notes:
  
  
• Step 1 is optional if the surface is in good condition (but will require more work in step 2)
  
• Step 2 will go a lot faster if you use a dremel / drill / grinder with a polishing wheel
  
• Step 3 is optional if you don't mind repolishing at a later date
  
• All the products should be available at your local auto parts store (Advance Auto, AutoZone, etc.).
  
  Links:
  
  
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ixrlPYcRvjM
  
• http://www.amazon.com/3M-03023-Imperial-Wetordry-Sandpaper/dp/B005RN0ISY
  
• http://www.amazon.com/BlueMagic-400-Metal-Polish-Cream/dp/B000BO8Z9I
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-BCL0125-Clear-Exact-Match-Automotive/dp/B00407NK6A
  

you guys might need some of this

Getting a good finish on clear requires three steps:

1. Cutting - using an aggressive sandpaper (1000-2000) to level out the surface and remove orange peel.
   
2. Buffing - using successively finer grits of sandpaper/polishing pads to remove the previous scratches. Sanding grits are typically 2400, 3200, 4000, 6000, 8000, 12000. Each successive grit is sanded 90 degrees to previous. The idea is to remove the scratches from the previous pass, and going across them instead of with them works better. By the time you get to 12,000 you'll have a nice, smooth reflective finish.
   
3. Polishing - this is what gives it the shine. Use a polishing compound and wax to give it a mirror finish.
   
   Products I use:
   
   

• Cutting: 3M Trizact automotive sanding pads. If my clear lays down smooth, I'll start at 3000
  
• Buffing: Sanding pads
  
• Polishing: Novus Plastic Polish - comes in 3 formulas - heavy scratch remove, fine scratch remover, and silicone wax.
  
  Here's how I do it.

Sure is.

https://www.amazon.com/Fiberglass-Sanding-Corrosion-Electrical-Autobody/dp/B07B7YSS76/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1524965560&sr=8-5&keywords=sanding+pen&dpID=41QTQuiN2WL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Check the door cards. Popits have a known problem of clattering if they move freely. I used to use Door Strip Caulk.

I posted this years ago, but it applies to all vehicles. https://www.reddit.com/r/MINI/comments/1m2i2d/fix_that_annoying_door_rattle_with_just_a_panel/

ok, 2 other options -

Something like this, but obviously find one the right size for the hole you're going to drill.

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Sealing-Closed-Rubber-Grommets/dp/B074WNWMD5

And/or:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08578-Black-Strip-Calk/dp/B000PEZ1L4

I've used both methods before with good results for almost the same application as what you're doing.

Probably, you can take it apart and see if there's any corrosion and use it a little bit of contact cleaner with a brush to remove it.

Cleaner
https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05103-Electronic-Cleaner-11/dp/B000BXOGNI/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=computer+contact+cleaner&qid=1563093666&s=automotive&sr=1-4

Brush
https://www.amazon.com/Gold-Label-Detailing-Fiberglass-Electrical/dp/B07B7YSS76/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=fiberglass+brush&qid=1563093712&s=automotive&sr=1-1


I use the brush and contact cleaner at work whenever components get wet and have started coating what I can with a Nonconformal Silicon Coating to try and save me some of the headache. It's not ideal, but yey. =/

Sand it out, repaint it, bolt it down with some strip caulk (like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000PEZ1L4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NH6ZCbHMZQ2RG ) to seal around the holes and keep leaks from happening

Yep.

Strip Caulk could be another option.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08578-Black-Strip-Calk/dp/B000PEZ1L4

I'm restoring a car that used something like it for oem tail light gaskets. Still pliable after more than 50 years.

On this car already? You probably did not get all of the oxidation off. UV rays attack car paint (red especially) and oxidize it, or dry it out. Hence, the paint looks lighter or chalky. You have to cut through all of that oxidation to get the color back, then polish to get the shine.

You may need to use a 3000 grit equivalent pad on a buffer (like this) to cut through it all. I won't recommend sand paper because you need experience to do that safely.

Once you use the Trizact pad, it will look dull, but darker. You can then use a light polish to get the shine back.