(Part 3) Best cat health supplies according to redditors

Very well but he’s also been flying since he was a baby so he’s pretty used to it. If he gets too nervous, he goes inside his bag that he’s had since he was a baby; it’s like his security blanket and also his little house.


Have you tried a calming spray?

You're right that a human going vegan has a bigger impact than a cat, but why not both?

• Vegetarian versus Meat-Based Diets for Companion Animals (2016) - "Cats and dogs maintained on vegetarian diets may be healthy—including those exercising at the highest levels—and indeed may experience a range of health benefits."
  
• VEGAN NUTRITION OF DOGS AND CATS (2014) - "It is the intention of this paper to provide general information on vegan nutrition of dogs and cats and furthermore to deal with how an adequate nutrient intake can be met with only plant based feeds" - Master's thesis from the Veterinary University of Vienna (translated from German).
  
• Evaluation of cats fed vegetarian diets and attitudes of their caregivers (2006)
  
  

  What about Taurine (and other essential nutrients)?
  

  
  Many people are concerned vegan diets lack essential nutrients for cats and dogs that can only be found in meat, like Taurine. Without Taurine, cats will suffer from retinal degeneration, cardiomyopathy, birth defects, and eventually death. This fear is heightened by anecdotal reports of owners who naively and cruelly feed an incomplete plant-based diet to their pets. However, many nutritionally complete dog and cat foods exist.
  
  Evolution is one such vegan dog & cat food brand, you can see their ingredients here. Both dog and cat food contain (ethical & sustainable) synthetic Taurine, Lysine, Carnitine, and more. This is not unique to Evolution. Any AAFCO compliant vegan pet food brand will have all essential nutrients and healthy carb/protein/fat macro-nutrient ratios as laid out by the guidelines.
  
  Some people worry that synthetic nutrients are less healthy than "natural" meat, or cost prohibitive. A common saying in the pet food industry is that "pets need nutrients, not ingredients". Almost all meat-based pet foods are just supplemented as vegan foods. The low-quality rendered meat is heavily processed in order to become edible flavoring, which denatures most amino acids and destroys other nutrients. You can see synthetic Taurine, amino acids, vitamins, and other nutrients in the labels of almost any pet food.
  
  

• Purina One
  
• Petcurean - Endless Valley Adult Dog
  
• And so on.
  
  

  Can cats be vegan?
  

  
  

• Arguments for trialing vegan food with cats.
  
  Yes. Cats require many nutrients that typically come from meat. In regular kibble, many of these nutrients are stripped away during processing and added back in from synthetic sources. These same sources are used to fulfill missing nutrients in vegan diets. Studies and anecdotal evidence support vegan diets as a healthy diet for cats.
  
  Vegan dog and cat food has the same amount of carbs, protein, and fat.
  
  There is one point of concern though. Vegan diets are typically more alkaline/basic (high pH) than meat based diets. Basic diets can cause FLUTD (feline lower urinary tract disease), especially in male cats. To combat this their food must be acidified.
  
  Most vegan and non-vegan cat kibble is acidified to prevent this condition. It's still a good idea to monitor your cat as it transitions foods to ensure its best health. On his website, Dr Andrew Knight says
  
  > Based on his experiences with thousands of vegan cats Gillen (2003) states that 85-90% of vegetarian cats do not require attention to dietary content; however, for the remaining 10-15%, urinary pH and dietary magnesium concentrations (see following) require monitoring
  
  The most relevant research has this to say on the matter
  
  > The normal pH of a cat’s urine is 5.5–7, and the normal range for a dog’s urine is pH 5–7 [85]. A pH > 7 indicates alkalinity. A variety of dietary products (e.g., “Vegeyeast” from Harbingers of a New Age—see [26]) and additives can correct alkalinization, should it occur. Asparagus, peas, brown rice, oats, lentils, corn, brussel sprouts and yeast may be included in feline and canine diets, and are all urinary acidifiers [27]. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is also a urinary acidifier. The British Small Animal Veterinary Association (BSAVA) Small Animal Formulary [86] recommends a dosage of 50–80 mg/kg every 24 h for cats and dogs. And for more serious cases, the amino acids methionine and cysteine may be used [13]. The BSAVA Small Animal Formulary [86] recommends a dosage of 200 mg/cat every 8 h. More detailed advice about urinary alkalinisation and corrective strategies is available via www.vegepets.info, or within veterinary medical texts.
  
  > Increased urinary acidity, decreased urinary magnesium and increased water consumption all help to keep the urinary pH within a healthy acidic range, and help to prevent the formation of struvite crystals. However, acidifying nutrients, agents, or products should be used carefully, as excessive levels can lead to metabolic acidosis. Increased urinary acidity may also promote higher urinary excretion of calcium and lower excretion of magnesium, and magnesium is a natural inhibitor to the formation of urinary stones associated with calcium [87].
  
  
• source
  
  > "Urinary pH is the most important factor in determining the SAP [struvite activity product, which can lead to FLUTD]. Acidification of urine causes deprotonation of phosphates and increases the total proportion of urine phosphate existing as trivalent anions, reducing the SAP.6 Urinary pH and SAP have been reduced with both dietary modification and administration of urinary acidifiers.7 The solubility of struvite is maximized when the urinary pH is <6.4 ... acidification of the urine to <6.29 may increase the risk of calcium oxalate urolith formation...[Urinary acidifiers] should be considered only when the urine pH is >6.5 with ad libitum feeding conditions...A general recommendation for prevention of urolithiasis is to increase water consumption...Diets with reduced magnesium that maintain a urine pH between 6 and 6.3 are recommended despite lack of evidence of efficacy...Monitoring urine pH is recommended to assess dietary compliance and efficacy. Values between 6.0 and 6.5 may reduce the incidence of calcium oxalate and struvite crystal formation. "
  
  
• source
  
  So what should you do?
  
  
• Always soak a cat's food in water for at least 30 minutes before feeding
  
• Buy vegan cat foods that have been acidified to lower pH. pH 6.3-6.4 is optimal, though exact pH will not likely be advertised. You can check for acidifiers by looking in the ingredient list for sodium bisulfate, dl-methionine, ammonium chloride, Vitamin C and the others discussed in the above study. These are already commonly added to regular pet foods.
  
• Check your cat's urine pH 1-2 weeks after switching to vegan and then twice a year. pH > 7 is a problem.
  
• For cats the target food pH is 6.3-6.5. Urine should be 6.0-6.5. Below or above this range is unhealthy. Acidifiers are only needed if the urine is above 6.5.
  
• If your cat appears to be in pain when using the litter box, immediately contact your vet. FLUTD is a serious condition that can lead to death.
  
• If you make your own food, which is not recommended, it is extremely important to check pH after it is thoroughly blended and mixed, and that the pH is 6.3-6.5. The author of Obligate Carnivore recommends taking these steps in the following order
  

1. For minor cases, enzyme supplements which include methionine, vitamin C, and/or cranberry extract will be sufficient. These limit both urinary alkalinisation and inflammation. They also aid digestion, and can result in increased vitality.
   
2. For moderate cases, Gillen states that Vegecat pH, with added sodium bisulfate, may be sufficient.
   
3. For severe cases Gillen recommends methionine pills. Severe cases also require a visit to the vet and possibly removing them from a vegan diet. Gillen estimates 85-90% of cats will never experience even a minor case.

Try getting a Feliway Diffuser plug in, and VetriScience Composure chewables (they can eat as treats or u can crumble into wet food). I have worked in vets offices for 9 years, and people say the combo of these two products really help cats settle down.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003KV7XVA/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Pgymub0SMM5SW

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WHUOEI/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Ziymub0JEQ8PB

Adorable pup!

There are two ways that I brush my Corgi's teeth which have great success.

So, first you will need a few things :

• (looks like you have a sample of this) Enzymatic toothpaste
  
  
• Maintenance Oral Gel
  
  
• Toothbursh, I use higher end brushes, which do make a difference. Kid's brushes are the best size or the small head ones. You can find some that are angled as well. For your pup the little finger brush is probably best for now.
  
  
• beef cannoli
  
  So, now that you have that... On to the ways I brush.
  
  Thumb in mouth This method is the most thorough and best approached from the front of the dog
  
  
• Take your index finger and gently rest it across the snout, being gentle and careful to not restrict airway or poke their eyes.
  
• Take your thumb and insert it in between the upper and lower jaw. It should enter one side and come out the other, effectively propping open the jaw and exposing the teeth while keep their tongue busy. Be careful here when doing this with any dog as you can lose a thumb if the dog is likely to bite or clamp down. Starting early usually mitigates the risk. Use your judgement!
  
• Brush each tooth in a gentle circular motion, making sure to get into all the nooks and crannies. I reapply toothpaste once per side. Be sure to gently brush around the gums as you can cause the gums to recede and wear away enamel if you are too forceful or use too stiff a brush. Treat them like your teeth.
  
• Brush the insides of the teeth if you can reach.
  
• Brush the tongue afterwards or let them lick the remaining paste off the brush to help clean the tongue.
  
• Afterwards, take the maintenance gel, apply about a .5 to 1inch line of gel on the upper and low gums of each side. I like to rub his lips on this to disperse but they are supposed to lick it and disperse it themselves.
  
• Give your pup a nice chewy, such as a tendon. Make sure they aren't made in China! I prefer ones made in the USA or Germany. Be careful with made and distributed / packaged in markings... Essentially, don't skimp! These are great occupiers, help prevent chewing on things you like, and also help keep their teeth clean, like those pesky molars!
  
  Now the second way...
  
  Closed mouth quick brush. This method is great for if you don't have a lot of time or the dog is a biter.
  
  
• Place your thumb across their snout.
  
• place the rest of your hand underneath their jaw, effectively holding their mouth shut. Be gentle here!
  
• slip the toothbrush between the lips. You can do this step first if it is easier for you.
  
• brush like normal, trying to get everything
  
• Let them open their mouth slightly and slide the toothbrush in between their front canines.
  
• brush the inside of their teeth
  
• brush their tongue
  
• apply gel as above
  
• Give your pup a nice chewy, such as a tendon.
  
  Hopefully this helps you! If you do this 1-2 times daily and provide high quality chewy snacks like tendons, you should reduce the need for dental visits at the vet of complete remove the need. Do pay attention to the gums and teeth though and consulate a vet for further advice.

Prednisolone is a steroid and will work as an anti-inflammatory. It starts working rather quickly by stopping the cells that are causing the damage to the lungs. Since the damage was going on for awhile though, it might take a week or two for his body to be able to fix and adapt to the damaged lung.

If you are concerned in the short term, you can call your vet and ask for a prescription for a rescue inhaler and you can purchase a [feline spacer like this.] (http://www.amazon.com/AeroKat-Feline-Aerosol-Chamber-Cats/dp/B005AIPRJG)

If his gums start to turn blue or pale, he needs to go back to the vet immediately.

Proper diet is crucial. Raw is the best but many ferrets are on kibble. With the exception of Wysong, ferret kibbles are no good. Many cat kibbles with the exception of a few are unacceptable as well. Stay away from Ferret brands like Marshalls, Mazuri, Dr Foster Smith, 8 in 1, Kaytee, Wild Harvest, Totally ferret, Zupreem, Dumor, along with anything that has rice, corn, wheat, barley, molasses. (I would name cat brands too, but again most of them are unacceptable to give. The major ones being Purina, Iams, and Meow Mix, Hills, Whiskas, these aren't even good for cats.) Ferrets are obligate carnivores which means they literally cannot digest or process anything other than raw meat organs and bones. Anything else that is or contains fruit vegetables salt sugar nuts dairy or carb of any kind especially rice, corn, or wheat is detrimental to their health. The absolute worse is anything with corn, rice, wheat, barley, molasses, potatoes or peas especially within the first few ingredients. Ferrets little bodies have to work so hard just process it. Raw is the best thing you can give, but lets stick to kibbles. When switching Kibbles ferrets need to be transitioned gradually to do so do a 1 to 4 ratio of new food too old and increase as you see fit. My boys were off Marshalls and on Wysong within 10 days. Please feel free to message me with any questions!

This new chart now contains totally ferret, I strongly recommend not using it due to rice being the third ingredient. It should only be used if absolutely necessary only if they have IBD or other food allergies.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vTvMXyhwVBu5TLnYSvGhqJqr_vE_-x_1BADF7dPwatwlB9l--m02ZN23FqvPNqp3v-n5cJyOuSssVfn/pub

Ferrets are very expensive family members, if you haven't already, start saving up now in case there's ever an emergency which there likely will be sometime in their life. It's important that you have a ferret knowledgeable vet, having an exotic vet is the bare minimum, often it's hard to find a good vet. Networking online is the best thing to do when trying to find a specialist near you.

Ferrets are very social creatures who develop close relationships with their humans. It is important they have companionship when your not around. They can even die from depression caused from loneliness. Ferrets THRIVE with a friend (or 2, or more!). When your not around you don't have to worry about your baby being home alone and lonely. There are also so many things a human can't do that another ferret can. You can never wrestle with them, chase them through tubes, or cuddle with them in a hammock. They live longer, happier, healthier lives with a buddy.

It's ideal if you can let ferrets free roam. Even if it's just a room (with time out of that room as well) If you must cage for part of the day the best cage is a Ferret Nation or Critter Nation. Anything smaller is just not enough room. They really need at least 2 solid floors to be able to stretch out on and relax on without fear of falling. Cages with just a bottom floor and floor panels not only do not have enough room, but are dangerous as a ferret could fall from the top to the bottom and break bones. Here, is the best cage you can get. It is well made, safe, easy to clean, and is the only cage on the market that's adequate amount of space.
https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-182-leak-Proof-Shelves-Measures/dp/B0054U8UGW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1538709394&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ferret+nation+cage&psc=1

there’s also different clear gates you can use to section off places or can even be put around a cage...

https://www.clearlylovedpets.com/dog-pens/

As for treats, raw meats, free dried treats, raw egg or just the yolks, or supplements such as salmon oil or Pickled Ferret Juice. Stay away from store bought supplements like ferretone, ferretive, ferretlax, ferrevite, they are all junk, salt, sugar, and bht a cancer causing preservative. There are some good freeze dried raw, I grind it up and make it into soupies...

https://www.chewy.com/stella-chewys-chick-chick-chicken/dp/129980?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=f&utm_content=Stella%20%26%20Chewy%27s&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQjwtb_bBRCFARIsAO5fVvHe0TNfR1DlRu3orbYpqRy1kmq_kdrGzy0-2GbOusCdOEdXzMf4JYgaAlr9EALw_wcB

Pickled Ferret Juice.

http://etsy.me/2AiWUyz

Salmon oil

https://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-Salmon-Oil-Supplement-Healthy/dp/B00WRAZ4CK/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1509819415&sr=8-13&keywords=grizzly+salmon+oil

No water bottles. Water bottles are intended for rodents. When ferrets are forced to chew on a metal rod they struggle just to get a drop and does permanent damage to their teeth. Like cats and dogs ferrets are naturally supposed to lap their water, and receive 60% more water intake when they are able to. Instead get a HEAVY bowl or one that can latch on to their cage.

Also no shredded bedding like you see them in at the petstore. Ferrets are prone to respiratory illness, the dust from those types of beddings can irritate their lungs and cause infection, also it can be ingested and cause a blockage. Ferrets are very clean animals and prefer blankets to cuddle in. Get lots of blankets (even an old t- shirts or sweaters will do)

Don't bathe more than twice a year. Bathing strips ferrets of their natural oils, therefore they have to overcompensate by making more and smelling worse. I prefer baby shampoo. Ferrets who enjoy water or have itchy skin can benefit from oatmeal baths, as long as soap isn't use it can be done more frequently.

Ferrets also need their nails trimmed (typically once a month) and should have their teeth brushed weekly.
https://www.amazon.com/Nuby-2-Pack-Oral-Massager-Toothbrush/dp/B008FONSQG/ref=sr_1_14_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1508618085&sr=8-14&keywords=baby+finger+toothbrush

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000NJ0PEE/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541386629&sr=8-2&keywords=MaxiGuard+OraZn+Pet+Oral+Care%2C+2+oz.

I have a kitten who also had goopy eyes and dirty ears, no matter what I did. Vet recommended this lysine supplement and it made a huge difference in his health. That jar will last you a year, after which time he shouldn't need it.

Bactrim is fine for pigs, and is typically successful in treating URIs. Side effects are quite rare as it is a milder antibiotic, but it's possible that it could cause digestive upset. If you wanted to be on the safe side, you can give your pigs some probiotics an hour or two after their Bactrim dose. Probiotics aren't likely necessary but it won't hurt them if you want to do it anyway for your peace of mind. Even more rare side effects (but also more serious) are loss of appetite, severe diarrhea, and lethargy. Contact your vet if you notice those.

Because Bactrim is gentler it's a good 'first' option to treat infections, especially for young guinea pigs. There is a chance that it may not be effective if the infection is sufficiently advanced or simply antibiotic-resistant. If your pigs aren't starting to improve after 3 days, or if they ever worsen after beginning treatment, call your vet as they'll likely need a different antibiotic (usually Baytril, but not always).

Probiotic info:

Safe probiotics to feed guinea pigs are fresh poops from a healthy guinea pig if you can get it (this is believed to be the most effective, plus it's free ;D), or if not you can sprinkle some powder from an acidophilus capsule on their pellets, or a probiotic meant for small animals like BeneBac (comes in gel or powdered form, and is usually carried by pet stores and vets) or Probios powder. Pigs don't do well with dairy, so avoid yogurt or other dairy products.

Amazon links (if you live in the US): Benebac gel tubes and Probios powder (a big tub like this is overkill for your situation, but it is another option)

I'm certain there are plenty other probiotic options that will also work fine, these are just the ones I've used and know of off the top of my head. It's also a good thing to consider keeping on hand just in case.

Guinealynx page on probiotics

It's this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Plaque-Off-Cats-40g-Formulation/dp/B004EA2OBK

I bought it somewhere else but this is the brand :)

It's a supplement I mix into his food once a day. I had to do some research, we are visiting my parent's place and I forgot to bring it with me.

I think most pet stores carry some type of product, but I've usually gotten them on amazon and they've lasted me many months at a time :). Here are links to some I've used and had good luck with:

Oxyfresh Pet

Nylabone Advanced Tarter Remover

Tropiclean Fresh Breath Plaque Remover

Tropiclean also makes this foaming spray which I've also had good luck with in the past. It's messy and the dogs don't like it, but it's just a second or two of annoyance for both of you, rather than trying to brush. Not saying it's as good as brushing, but it's certainly better than nothing!

Whatever you do, keep him on a wet food. There are ph strips you can buy to test at home. But if you've had urinary problems with your kitty before, you probably know the signs to watch out for, and know the cost involved with a blockage. So keep all that in mind. High moisture is important for all cats, not just ones who have had blockages in the past.

My cats don't love the car, so I try to make sure I get these treats and this spray any time we're travelling with them!

I personally have never given it to rats, but my rabbit's pellets have it in them, and it does definitely help with odor, so I'm assuming it would do the same for ratties. I was googling, and
I happened to find this. It says it is for horses as well, and both horses and rats are hind gut fermentors (digestive system type), so it would be reasonable to say rats can also have it if horses can. If you can find treats that have Yucca that are for cats or dogs, it is likely rats could also partake in them. I found these but I looked through the ingredients and found citric acid, so the paranoid part of me says no since citrus is bad in boys, unless they are two different things of course. I admit I'm not the best at ingredients deciphering lol Humans can also eat Yucca, so I would imagine you could potentially just cook the stuff as you would normally and give them a little of the root. Here is an explanation I found on how to prepare and cook it. Sorry I'm not the best help. Maybe someone else will comment that knows more!

I get mine from Tisol Pet Foods, but you should be able to get it online if your local pet stores don't carry it.

http://www.amazon.com/Petromalt-Flavored-Hairball-Treatment-4-4-Ounce/dp/B000255UYY

Get some l-lysine it helps immensely with feline herpes. Our cats both have feline herpes and they get about an inch of this paste a day that they lick from our fingers http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012GWCPM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1417163820&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

After a couple days the symptoms should improve and almost disappear. Keep them on the l-lysine regularly for prevention.

This lysine is cheap while this one is more palatable. Each would be 1/4 tsp on food twice a day. And for a single cat either container would last a long time.

Check with a vet to make sure it's not an infection. I've always had great luck with Excel's ear wipes.

Are you using Oticleanse right now or another ear cleanser?

This is the only one my local pet store carries. Would it be okay or do I need the one that says its specifically for guinea pigs and small animals?

Sundry list: Kindle.

It's for my dad. His birthday and father's day are the same day. It's a combo gift. He's been through a lot, health-wise, and he's finally at a place he can relax. We both love reading and bond over books better than anything else. I'm one of 4 kids and reading was the thing we had together while I was growing up, that nobody else shared. It was really special.

Books list: Mr. Mercedes

Stephen King and I have a long relationship. I've got Dark Tower tattoos, even. I have read everything he's written that I could get my hands on. This comes out in June. I own all of his books in hardcover. My den is basically a shrine to Uncle Steve.

Home Improvement list: Recessed Light Can Converters

I bought a house last year. It's got sunken eyeball lighting in the kitchen. They really, really creep me out. I know it's irrational. But I plan to put mini pendent lights in instead. o_O

Kitchen and Noms list: Instant Read Pocket Thermometer

I recently bought a bread machine. It's great and I use it every day, almost. Some of the breads require water at an exact temperature. I need a thermometer that starts at zero for this.

Pets and Wildlife list: Feliway

I have a ten-year-old neurotic cat who takes his pants off when he's anxious. This helps keep him decent. ;)

My son's birthday list: Wooden Pantry Products

The boy turns 2 in May. He has a play kitchen, but no play food yet. (He did have some cardboard boxes that came with the set, but he ate them in true baby form.) This set of wood pantry items will hold up and also be fun for stacking.

Add-ons list: iRobot Scooba Hard Floor Cleaner

Because a bot's got to eat, too.

Thanks for the contest!^ifitisacontest^probably

i use these and they are awesome:
http://www.amazon.com/Excel-Ear-Clear-Cleansing-90-Count/dp/B000FPL27U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396760784&sr=8-1&keywords=cat+ear+cleaning+pads

my cat would freak out if i used drops. she definitely doesn't enjoy getting her ears cleaned, but these make it all much easier and it doesn't take long.

Have you tried the feline away plug in? I've used them when high stress situations for the cats AK moving new baby excetera and it's really help to calm them down. They're expensive so I only use them for a month or two but after that the cats have seemed to adjust to the new situation. https://www.amazon.com/Feliway-Classic-Plug-Diffuser-Refill/dp/B07R7ZB251?ref_=ast_bbp_dp

If your cat is that distressed by it just get a baby shirt that covers the incision (check with your vet first).

There are even kitty versions...

The Suitical

The FOREYY

He'll be able to groom more of himself but won't be able to get to his sutures.

I believe 1-3 month fits most cats.

Otherwise we'd just get a Comfy Cone and turn it down a bit. Most cats are a small. My tiny kitty is about the size of a typical 9 month old kitten, hers is an extra small but she can still fit her sisters size small cone.

In the evening we would do supervised cone free time. I know it's hard to watch your kitty feeling uncomfortable or in distress, but the sooner he heals the faster he's done with the cone. He'll be used to it to a certain extent soon.

Hope your kitty heals quickly!

cone alternatives

Baby clothes: diy onesie and another

surgical suit

donut

I will say a onesie may not be enough. It would stop licking but not biting at stitches when it itches.

Good luck.

Can the cone be inverted?

Also place food & drink a few inches higher to help cat get to them.

You can get it from your Vet or you can get it at a pet store/Amazon/etc. There is also food that comes with it as part of the feed mix. Just as an example:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DQTF6XB/ref=dp_cerb_3

​

This is a liquid that you add on top of the pet's regular food.

There's stuff you can buy at your vet (or perhaps the grocery store, if it has a pet section), that's basically Vaseline with malt added -- the malt tastes good (so they tell me), which encourages them to eat it. I've given it to my own cats but I honestly don't know how well it works.

I’ve never tried this but it might work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078STS36P/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_luZzCbXMMV864

Take a look at the "AeroKat Feline Aerosol Chamber for Cats"
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005AIPRJG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_upLGzbN54K2B7

If you're in Canada you can get Flovent for much cheaper than what you're paying now. I checked out the prices and you can get a 120 dose/50 micrograms inhaler for like 24$. With pharmacy fees thats only like $32-35 tops per month.
https://www.formulary.health.gov.on.ca/formulary/results.xhtml?q=flovent&type=2
[I use the Ontario formulary because it shows the actual cost of the medication brand and generic. You may have to call around to get the best price or if you have health insurance, you could probably get your doctor to prescribe it "for you" ;)


Definitely read some of the reviews and Q/A's from the Amazon link and go from there.

I've heard that the collars don't work. I've had no experience with the collars. Can't hurt to try it. But the plugins are what most people say works.

The plugins are what I was going to recommend if a bladder problem was ruled out. (I have another recommendation, too, see end of comment.) You shouldn't need a pheromone plugin in every room in the house, only in the places where he tends to pee. Dog beds, for example - make sure there's a plugin near the dog beds.

As far as price is concerned, buying online will save you money. I hope these links will work: Amazon has 6 refills for $73.57 at the moment and PetCo does bulk purchasing at reduced prices, $84.99 for 6 refills at the moment. You can also schedule repeat delivery at a reduced price. Check around the internet for better deals if you like.

Try the product and see if you notice an improvement. I know $73.57 for 6 bottles isn't incredibly cheap, but it's really not that bad considering you should get about a month out of each bottle and may not need one in every room.

I know there's at least one dog in your house, which may be causing this territorial behaviour. I don't know if you have other cats. In addition to the plugins, many people find that adding vertical space to the environment, for example a cat tree or cat shelves, resolves their cats' territorial anxieties. For cats, having a high place to climb up and observe is quite important. If you don't want to spend the money to buy a cat tree or shelves, both can be made inexpensively with materials from the hardware store, and as a bonus they're really fun to make.

Our vet recommended a dental gel called Biotene Maintenance Oral Gel (the one with enzymes) - you rub it on their gums (or use it with a cat toothbrush). You can use it on your dogs too.

this is what we use to keep jack’s teeth clean - he is raw fed but due to his special needs he cannot chew bone (he has only 4 bottom teeth and no jaw for the remainder) so we have to use an alternative. a lot of kibble fed ferrents use this as well & this is highly recommended through the ferret community. orazn pet oral care

Our cats are carriers but don’t have the full blown infection. We treat them with Lysine with great results. Once in the morning, once in the evening.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012GWCPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_HPuUBbNFGXR08

Pet Naturals of Vermont makes a cat treat called Smelly Cat that is supposed to help with poo reek. It worked really well for my Abysinnian, but my MC is never interested in eating them.

For any labs, treats, treats, treats! You can buy some good ones at any pet store, or make your own.

http://allrecipes.com/recipe/133123/peanut-butter-and-pumpkin-dog-treats/

Also, this breath freshener is awesome. My dog seems to enjoy it and his dragon breath is gone:

https://www.amazon.com/Tropiclean-Breath-Plaque-Remover-Additive/dp/B0054WTPBY/ref=pd_nav_hcs_bia_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=H4MHKDS7AAC9FM82XVK4