Best circuit breakers according to redditors
We found 117 Reddit comments discussing the best circuit breakers. We ranked the 85 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 117 Reddit comments discussing the best circuit breakers. We ranked the 85 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Should be possible if you can DIY the electrics or know someone who can...
... that's $400 not incl shipping. Still need a bunch of 30A cable at $3/ft, a project box of some sort to mount the SSVR in (I use a $6 toolbox), maybe a chiller.
Charging the battery while driving is pretty simple but took me a year to figure out how simple it was. Hopefully you are planning on using a trailer wire junction box. If so, run a 14ga wire from the junction box (that connects to your truck) to the positive side of the battery. Add something like this inline between the junction and the battery for safety. https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Automatic-Reset-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B07NSD3KYH
For shore power, I used one of these on the side of the camper which then runs to a 2 amp charger that charges the battery. In hindsight, I should of done a 4 or 5 amp charger.
https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GCP1-16-Inch-Integrated-Extension/dp/B009ANV81S
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Solar, do as other have said and get a controller.
Get something like this for the subpanel
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PM927KK/
They make a larger one for the main load center as well. For $500 I expect you can do your main service box and all subs
In lieu of replacing your breaker, you can buy and wire a spa panel for a GFCI.
https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schneider-Electric-HOME250SPA-Homeline/dp/B000BQT1AS
Put this as a part of your extension cord build to make things easier for you.
I wouldn't necessarily recommend building your own cord, just don't spring for the cheap cords.
200 amps baby!! What makes this install so easy is (1) the short wire length, (2) not having to drill through studs and (3) remove & replace drywall. The tricky part was finding where my panel would accept the skinny dual pole breaker. Not all the slots on the panel are designed to accept the skinny breakers.
Edit: I just want to say, I did not expect this simple outlet to be such a hot topic (no pun intended). If you are confident in doing the work yourself, by all means, go for it. You have a brain and know the risks associated with your decisions. If you have any doubts, at least consult someone. The fallback is, you can always hire the work out.
The bay area is reputed to have steel conduit or metal-clad cable for much historic multifamily housing stock, but I'm sure you can find non-updated 1910 - 1930s stuff with knob and tube if you are unlucky. In some cases the conduit is an effective ground, but I'd be inclined to use GFCI anyway on pre-mid-60's housing.
With an pigtail tester you can check if a 2-prong receptacle is in a grounded box. If it is, then using a correctly installed cheater plug is effectively the same as using a 3-prong outlet installed in that spot and grounded to the box.
When I was in an apartment with 2-prong outlets, outlet boxes that were not connected to ground, and a landlord unwilling to have GFCI outlets swapped in, my strategy was to buy a bunch of cheap "single-mode" surge-strips (the sort that provide "line to neutral" protection only); chop off the plugs, and replace the plugs with 2-prong ALCI plugs
This way I had right-angle plugs that were secure in the old 2-prong outlets, GFCI-protected 3-prong outlets to plug 3-prong plugs into, and Type 3 surge diverters appropriate for circuits with only hot and neutral.
There was a post not too long ago by someone who killed his lithiums because even though his inverter was on a switch, his raspberry pi or something was not and that drained it during a cloudy week. So don't forget undervoltage protection on that DC fuse block!
Edit: Also, I would take some of those savings and get better-quality fire-prevention devices. I don't trust safety devices with 26% one-star reviews.
Better options:
https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B007P5UNNW/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywords=200+amp+circuit+breaker+dc&qid=1573679773&sr=8-2
https://www.amazon.com/Tocas-Circuit-Switchable-Waterproof-Flush-Mount/dp/B06Y4172LP/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=200+amp+circuit+breaker+dc&qid=1573679773&sr=8-3
Here is the desktop version of your link
Yes you can get QO twins for that panel.
The real question is if it was designed for twins or if you need to use a twin that will fit but is not UL listed for the panel.
Only way to find out is take the cover off and find the catalog number of the panel / schematic inside.
Or
Look for a slot / hole on the panel rail / side of the interior that will accept a hook (look below where the wire attaches to the breaker) you will likely need to remove breakers to see it.
If it does accept twins usually the bottom breakers slots are more likely to have the slot.
QO2020 guaranteed to fit but expensive - Designed for use in older non ctl listed panel: https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schneider-Electric-QO2020CP-Single-Pole/dp/B0002YSOMA/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1510191088&sr=1-1&keywords=qo2020
QOT2020 Cheaper and used in panels designed to accept twins: https://www.amazon.com/Square-QOT2020-SinglePole-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B002FYQDP0
See this also: https://www.schneider-electric.us/en/faqs/FA110798/
If you're worried about a lightning strike or a power surge get a Siemans surge suppressor breaker for your electrical panel, this is what they are
They're $85 and they protect your whole home. They are not difficult to install, there's plenty of videos on YouTube or ask a friend who's handy or a family member.
My house has power delivered by overhead wires and I'm worried that a lightning strike down the road could fry my gear so I added one of these breakers to my panel. Also, my parent's house was affected by an indirect lightning strike and many of their appliances, Central Vacuum, furnace, garage door openers and TV were killed. They didn't have a
sergesurge protection.Here is the list of all the stuff i got:
I think thats pretty much it, i will edit anything else if remember it.
This all could be done in one day and you dont need a garage to do it.
Good luck!
I'd worry more about the fuses. People do stupid shit like use pennies. These are safer:
15 and 20 amp breakers
It could save your landlord from a fire.
I just ended up grabbing this https://www.amazon.com/ZOOKOTO-12V-24V-Circuit-Inverter-Protection/dp/B071XTNLT5
I think this type of circuit tracer will work on the wire:
https://www.amazon.com/Amprobe-BT-120-Circuit-Breaker-Tracer/dp/B005G7SC0M
has anyone tried using it that way?
Any issues with something like this?
That is a current QO 200A main breaker.
https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&channel=tus&q=qo+200A+replacement+main+breaker
https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schneider-Electric-QOM2200VH-Homeline/dp/B000X39O2O
It's convenient and safe to have a large disconnect between large loads. It allows total shutdown/lockout for service or storage and generally allows more control over the system. They are not necessary in all installs though, and sometimes space or $$ are higher priorities.
I like to use these breakers for inverters and other loads that are <200a, that way you have a switch and overcurrent protection.
It is an 40-100 Amp fuse block. If you remove the red rubber cover it should have a fuseable link that will show the rating. They should be available at camping, or boat stores and also Amazon.
Search for Thor 80 amp fuse block, like this:
Amazon
Or the 40A version, which should be suitable for a small travel trailer with a single battery and 30A system.
Another
Huh? A GFCI is literally designed to protect against short circuits. GFCIs automatically disconnect a circuit when they detect an imbalance in current between the hot and neutral: a short.
Surge suppression (as you mentioned in #2) is a separate issue from grounding, that u/HouseMonster did not ask about in their post. They asked about short protection. That part is a problem that anyone with electronic equipment (myself included) faces, regardless of the age of the home. That's typically addressed by protecting sensitive devices by purchasing power strips that include integral surge suppressors. Whole-house surge protection is something that's generally only addressed when replacing the main breaker box by installing one of these. Whether or not that's a feasible addition right now depends on the age of OP's breaker box, whether or not they're comfortable opening it up/paying a sparky to do it, whether or not there are enough in slots in the breaker box to accommodate it, etc. And even then, those devices only address the 20% of power surges that originate in the grid, not the other 80% that originate in the home. Those surges need to be arrested at the point of use. A combination approach is best practice, but expensive. The most feasible solution is UPS (uninterruptable power supply) units for the modem/router, home theater, and desktop computer (if one is present). They're about $60 each and available at any Walmart or office supply store.
So this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPF0I6 would actually be good for 400 amps if properly balanced?
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Edit: And this would be good for 400 amps as well? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000X39O2O
Nice van!
Don't be too intimidated with adding a house battery. You can do it.
Very in-depth guide for adding a house battery with solenoid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zrwHyy4qyY
This is the battery I used, it ROCKS. (smaller and cheaper options from same company available)
Other items I used...
Ok, was just checking. Which means you're going to have to test and trace wiring.
Start with identifying the ground wire. since the jeep is now wired right it will be the white terminal on the trailer plug, white wire. Go back to where they have it all tied together on the trailer and make sure it's grounded correctly to the frame and the battery.
The next wire to work on will be the 12 volt supply wore from the jeep to the battery. It should be on the black terminal. Black wire. It should have a 12-volt circuit breaker on it, then it should go to the battery. Like this one
Your going to need a regular light tester, like this one
A set of test leads like these come in handy. You can take an old 12-volt battery, hook the leads to it, hook the ground to the trailer ground (after inspecting it and making it right) then use the hot wire to power up individual wires on the trailer to identify them.
As I said, it's just a matter of tracing and testing now.
Currently in the process of making a new storage system which will contain the same batteries, along with a fuse box and 100amp circuit breaker for a little more peace of mind.
I know the solar charge controllers support it, but I wouldn't run the load through the charge controller. I would run the battery load directly to your positive and negative bus bars (through a master on/off switch and a fuse). Personally I don't think that the features that it provides is worth the extra dependency of having the load go through an unrelated sensitive electronics piece. Don't take my opinion on this as gospel. Make your own choice.
Your charge controller should be as close as possible to the batteries. Hopefully in the same box/cabinet, and close enough that you shouldn't need a fuse between them.
Are you going to be able to charge off the alternator or off shore power?
Consider a battery monitor separate from the charge controller. That way you can track all power going into/out of the battery, regardless of source.
Like TimelessNY said, you likely don't need the fuse to the panels. I have a MC4 fuse on my roof, to break the circuit if one of the wires cuts through and shorts out on the chassis. But you shouldn't need a fuse to prevent overloading the wires with load.
Personally I went with Victron for the MPPT and battery monitor. the bluetooth integration is super awesome convenient. Don't feel like if you are getting renogy panels you need renogy controllers too.
I don't think that your 100A fuse will be able to handle a 3000W surge power to the inverter. Unless you get a long delay breaker like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007P5UNNW . Also, put the fuse between your battery and the inverter as close to the battery as possible. On the battery side of the switch. ideally in the battery box.
For AC distribution, it depends on which inverter you have. Does it have a hardwire capability? Mine does, so I set up 3 busses, one for live, one for neutral and one for ground. I hardwired my outlets (and my TV) into these buses.
Which isolator do you have? Depending on what you have, wiring strategies could differ.
I used an inline one of of amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071XTNLT5/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506353226&amp;sr=8-9&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=80+amp+fuse&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41ucx1XBpgL&amp;ref=plSrch
This is a tandem breaker.
I don't know all the correct terminology, so I apologize if that's causing some confusion.
From what I understand everyone to be saying, I can do it as long as the two hots are on breakers that are on opposite hot legs.
ie. the mains coming into the panel are black and red and one is on each bank of breaker slots, so when I put the new circuits in I need to make sure that the hots from the 12/3 are on breakers that are on different banks. In other words, one has to be on the black mains rail, and one on the red.
Edit: Looking and thinking some more, I see that I could use this to achieve what I was trying to describe.
A really old version of this. Mine is red and I think Commerical Electric made it back then. It was sub $20 I know that. It does the job...
That's not buy it for life, that's super clean power, and insane luck. :D
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Panasonic makes some cool gear and all, but they're rather infamous for cascade failure because all the components decide to die at around the same time. Even though that may be 10-15 years down the road. When it goes down, it goes down in a BIG cloud of smoke. Techs just shake their heads, say better luck next time.
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Word to the wise, if you're shopping for old tank microwaves, look at this spare parts source first. http://www.amiparts.com/ If they have a TON of surplus parts for a microwave, and they're relatively cheap, that design was a fucking tank if its over 30 year old, like many Magic Chef, Amana, and similar microwaves are. Sharps are pretty good, if a bit stone axe in terms of design. Panasonic though, being more technical excellence, makes a SWEET all stainless switch mode power supply nuker. She's sexx on a stick in terms of design elegance. http://www.vk3hz.net/amps/Microwave_Oven_Inverter_HV_Power_Supply.pdf
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But when it DOES go down, unless its just door switches or something stupid, an appliance tech has no chance in hell of fixing it. This version, is the most modern, probably not BIL, but I think it'll make 12-15 years if you have clean power, or MOVs/GaAS quenchers installed on your breaker panel. Like these. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Square-D-QO-22-5-kA-2-Pole-Surgebreaker-Surge-Protective-Device-QO2175SB/100202111 https://www.amazon.com/Eaton-BRSURGE-Whole-Panel-Arrest-Breaker-x/dp/B00PM927KK
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A BIL Panasonic is this ugly buzzard, 220v, it will nuke/thaw that pot roast before you know whats happened. :D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DE01QCE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?psc=1 $1500 and worth three times as much. You can sit there and nuke stuff in it 3 shifts a day, 7 days a week, 365 a year, for DECADES. lol!
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For typical consumer goods, I would recommend, as a tech who worked on thousands of microwaves back in my larval enginerding days in college, a slightly higher end Sharp. They're kinda ho hum in terms of design engineering. I could sketch out the entire circuit diagram of one of these while absolutely hammered in less than 20 min on a napkin. https://www.amazon.com/Sharp-1200W-Countertop-Microwave-Stainless/dp/B01CAHP9YC/ Simple design, tough enough, easy to fix, easy to get parts, a complete moron appliance tech can handle these. They usually have MOVs and sacrificial traces on the controller PCB, so one of these can do 3-4 good lightning hits before they're truly toast. (or just need a new control panel PCB for $50-$75)
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The last one I actually bought, was this one. Because once I was done with it and got something serious, it was employee break room fodder, like that last 3. https://www.menards.com/main/appliances/microwaves/countertop-microwaves/appliances/microwaves/countertop-microwaves/criterion-reg-0-9-cu-ft-countertop-microwave/ccm09g1b/p-1520494273005-c-1500043654078.htm
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Super cheap, super simple, not a massive power hog so you can run it, the coffee pot, and the air compressor on the same circuit. Hopefully. :D Durable enough, probably make 5-6 years before the next big lighting hit fried it, and every surge suppressor in the place.
Run 50 amps to preferably a spa pack. Tubs that run on 120v are usually garbage and 27/32 hot tubs I've done required a 240v 50 amp breaker
You can find tools like this Circuit tracer at most home/hardware stores. Using something like that will probably be the easiest way for you.
What brand is your panel?
Siemens makes a surge protector/circuit breaker combo that replaces two breakers, so it takes up no space in your panel. Other panels may have similar options.
You could go with a single-pid version of this for pretty cheap: http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-Brewery-Control-Panel-on-the-Cheap/
As others have said, you'll want to be sure you're venting all that moisture out of your basement. And a GFCI breaker on that 240v circuit is pretty sensible (you can use a spa box if you've already got the circuit pulled to where you will brew, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schneider-Electric-HOME250SPA-Homeline/dp/B000BQT1AS)
Last thing worth considering is a pump (I'm partial to the Chugger) to recirculate your water while coming up to temp. The less expensive option is just to stir the water frequently while heating - moving that fluid around makes a big difference in keeping it all at the same temp.
Good luck, keep us posted on your choices and how it comes out!
Thanks for this reply.
> Should I install a RCCB behind the inverter (220 V) securing only the AC power, or before it (12 V) securing the entire system?
>> ???
I was referring to these alternatives.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000S5RGFY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_ApHhDb7DSND96
OAONAN GFCI Replacement Plug Assembly 2-Prongs with Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter Safety RCD Protection for Pool Pump,Power Pressure Washer,Air Conditioner,Hair Dryer and so on (15Amp 2-wires) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073PRH8H3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_R3FYCbGRQ5Y8V
Ok that is understandable.
By its listing you cannot use the one mentioned as it was not indented for the flexible cord you have (used for 16/3, 14/3, or 12/3 SJTW cable).
Tower used to sell this 2 prong version which seems to be discontinued but you might be able to find if you call a local electrical store. Otherwise, you should be better off using this or this made for two wire equipment.
I'm having to swap out a 2 x full-height, single-pole 20A's with a 2-20 / 1-50 quad circuit breaker, and that's about all I can do short of upgrading the panel, which is no fun.
Sorry if it wasn't clear in the ASCII layout, but the wall connector would still be hardwired in my setup -- just that there would be a junction box and an outlet prior to it -- all connected via conduit, of course.
This can help you make your own labels.
Here are two tools that help:
Tells you if an outlit or wire is hot before you touch it:
http://www.amazon.com/Fluke-1AC-A1-II-Volt-Alert-Non-Contact-Voltage/dp/B000EJ332O
Allows you to find the circuit for an unlabeled outlet:
http://www.amazon.com/Sperry-CS550A-Circuit-Breaker-Finder/dp/B000ET403A