Best edge treatment & grooving router bits according to redditors

Just happened to come across the body pillow of the character she's he's cosplaying as for no particular reason.

I bought this guy


And it rules, all day long.

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-18-113-1-Inch-Diameter-Router/dp/B00004T7DI

Well, normally it would be a roundover bit in a router. Dremel does make a roundover bit, but I'm not sure that it's something that could be done well (or safely) freehand without the router base, which you didn't mention having.

http://amzn.com/B00004UDIJ

That being said, if you're not too concerned about precision you could definitely round over the edge with your sander. Will just take some time.

A lot less scary. I used this on a project i posted recently.

This bit was recommended in another 'planer jig' thread. I don't own it personally.

Magnate 2705 surface planing bit

Maybe a cove molding bit

Kudos on diving into a huge project. You're going to learn a ton.

1. Router sled is a great option. Watch LOTS of videos. If you don't have a bench or table big enough to set up a router sled, you can do it on the floor just fine, as long as your floor is flat. Here is an example of the type of router bit you'll need. Go slow and make shallow cuts - trust me on this one. And be sure that with a slab this big, it's not rocking at all when lying on a flat surface (you may have to use shims or the like when setting it up). If it's got any twist to it then it may rock, and you won't get a flat surface when planing it.
   
   
2. Wood filler and epoxy will both work, as will very fine sawdust mixed with wood glue.
   
   
3. Yep, take it off. I've done this once, so I'm not exactly expert, but I took the bark with a chisel (be careful not to gouge the wood) then sanded the edges with sanding drill bits. Worked for me.
   
   
4. There are as many opinions about finishing as there are woodworkers on this sub. I recommend you take the top 4 or 5 suggestions you get on here and try them all on the underside of the slab. See which one you like the best and go with it. If it were me, I'd seal with shellac first (maple gets blotchy so sealing first is a good idea) then finish with a wiping oil-based poly, doing a ton of coats. Personally, I thin [this stuff] (http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/251617123224?lpid=82) with paint thinner (about 50/50) because the dude who owns my lumber yard recommended it and it's worked great for me, but please do your own research.
   
   
5. No nails. They are shitty fasteners. Screws are great, but you need to account for wood movement when you decide how to attach your slab to the base that you build. That's too long a discussion for here - please do yourself a favor and read up online about wood movement. You'll pretty quickly figure out your different options. Here are some examples of discussions on topic.
   
   Good luck!!!

THESE are my most used bits...I use them to cut aluminum and MDF all day long. They're cheap, but stay sharp for longer than you'd expect

I use THESE for engraving...and yes, I use them in aluminum as well

For Vcarving, I use THIS I've probably ordered 3 of these in a 1 year time span but cut A LOT of MDF with it

​

In the beginning, don't buy expensive bits....it's a waste of $$$ until you get your feedrate and DOC figured out. I also highly recommend you download the millrightCNC app for your phone or tablet to figure out your feedrate / RPM / Depth of Cut / Chiploads.

You could use a Round Nose Router Bit in a plunge router.

I've ordered this bit based on the recomendation of some people on this subreddit: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006B0QX4/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

There's also a 2.75" but that just sounds kind scary (http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Surface-Planing-Bottom-Cleaning/dp/B0006B0QXO/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y)

I use this bit , it's nice and wide and won't break the bank so if you are roughing down some "less than clean" lumber and get a nick in a tooth it won't leave you crying.
http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/828680/freud-16108-mortising-router-bit-12-sh-114-d-12-cl.aspx

this one is wider but I have to use a custom base I made with a wider opening.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006B0QXE/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_2?pf_rd_p=1944579842&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B0006B0PX0&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1EFKC8R24CGDR82TCZ4X

Bottom cleaning bit:

https://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Surface-Planing-Bottom-Cleaning/dp/B0006B0QXO

I have used this Yonico 1.5" bit for cutting boards with great success

http://amzn.com/B00KZM20GU

This one is what I used. A lot cheaper than those Amana cutters with inserts.

https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Spoilboard-Surfacing-Router-Shank/dp/B071748JQN

I make signs (including nameplates), and stuff for a small etsy shop I have on the side. I've found that typically, harder woods machine better. I make nameplates for people out of Walnut or Maple usually. Also, I find that using a 60 degree bit for smaller lettering looks really nice.

The nameplates I make are 9in x 3in, and 3/8in thick. I also make a stand for them out of a contrasting wood (if I use maple for the nameplate, I make the stand out of walnut). The stand allows me to set the nameplate at an angle if it will be displayed on a desk.

Here's the bit I use: Amazon Link

Let me know if you have any questions!

Bottom cleaning bits are literally made just for this: http://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Surface-Planing-Bottom-Cleaning/dp/B0006B0QXO

I am current doing a good amount of slab flattening with a different set up with ho hum results. Is this the kind of bit you use? http://www.amazon.com/CMT-851-502-11B-Bearing-Diameter-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000P4O5ZC

Any decent bottom cleaning router bit. I use [this one](Yonico 14976 1-1/2-Inch Diameter Bottom Cleaning Router Bit 1/2-Inch Shank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KZM20GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vikVCb82PFRBK) most of the time.

Gotcha--regarding the router sled setup--if you're unhappy with the finish, try using a bowl bit. I've got one of these monstrosities, and the rounded corners seem to make tearout less of a possibility, although I'm generally not using mine for end grain . I DO, however, use it for guitar bodies, and I'm generally fairly picky about marring the surface, since my router is used for final thicknessing.

Gladly. I bought 1"x4"x8' clear-heart redwood boards. I also borrowed a router and router bench and bought a [tongue and groove set] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZM2AIS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and ran all of my boards through the router. You can definitely buy wood already tongue and grooved which is a lot easier, but I was really specific about the wood I wanted to use so I had to do it myself. If you're going to do it yourself and haven't done it before, definitely test it out on some throwaway wood to practice before you start cutting into your stock.

Once they were all t&g'd I started mounting them against the plywood walls and they just stack on top of each other. I cleaned off all the wood sticking out past the walls with a router template bit. I used Lexel to seal the edges between the redwood siding and the plywood, then cut some 1/8" plywood as trim to cover the gap, you can see me clamping the trim on here. I also had to cut out my doors/windows, etc.

For the outer roof and hatch, I used 1/8in Marine grade plywood. It's super durable, and bent easily over the frame. For the inner roof I used 1/8in maple plywood, and in-between both those layers I filled it with insulation. You can kinda see the process here.

I finished the siding and redwood with Waterlox Sealer & Finish. It's a tung oil sealer, and the finish is marine spar varnish that protects against water, UV...etc. The best part is if it ever needs a new coat you don't need to sand, you just add on a new layer and it kinda 'burns' in.

As for cost....I'm not sure, I stopped keeping track :P - Redwood can get expensive, but I really liked it so I splurged. You can get just as beautiful a finish with pine, which is much easier to find already tongue and grooved. Pine is great as long as you seal it.

Here's some photos of the process and the finish. Please let me know what other questions you have!

I purchased the smaller version of this. It does a solid job of flattening. Also makes a good rabbet.

I just bought a giant round bit for use on a cutting board. Do you think this would work?? https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7DQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Try this link

CMT 858.001.11 60 degree Laser Point Bit, 1/4-Inch Shank, 1/2-Inch Diameter, Carbide-Tipped by CMT http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P4NSYG/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_0Emktb12XDFND

Ooh, probably not unless you find one that has the little stem instead of a roller bearing. Maybe the kind meant for a dremel tool in a routing base. Does it have to be round, or just not a sharp corner? If you just want to break the edge a hand plane would do it. Lee Valley used to sell a tiny chamfering plane, but I don't see it on their site any more.

Edit to add I found the bit I was thinking of.

I use the crap out of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010NI39WO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this one for V-carving:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ALY4E2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For engraving

https://www.amazon.com/Autek-Titanium-Carbide-Engraving-J3-3001Tix10/dp/B00HC98K2C/ref=sr_1_8?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1542727514&sr=1-8&keywords=cnc+engraving+bit

Also, get a 1/8 and 1/4 compression bit

I've had luck with shallow passes using a dish bit. Not my idea, some redditor who will get no credit who probably got the suggestion from someone else. The radius means little to no chipping/tear out (so I'm told and so I've experienced). I use a 1/4" radius, 1 1/4" diameter dish bit. Works great with end grain. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Radius-Carving-Shank-99-026/dp/B00004T7M5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J7IGLV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Hk53AbKP7AVKG

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071V4DB6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Hm53AbGA6WHGV


And unfortunately I can't find my rem one.

I own a Craftex CX-601, which is a very similar machine to the one you've decided on.

On the vice, I would recommend either buying a vice that someone else owns and can confirm is good...or only buy one you can see in person. I bought a 5 inch Taiwanese vice, and I'm pretty disappointed with the quality of it. It was on-sale, and I figured it would "do fine" while I looked for a Kurt or other super nice unit on Craigslist. Turns out it does "do fine", but the moveable jaw was shimmed instead of machined square. Not good. On my table a 5in vice is a good size, but I probably could have gone with a six. Consider upsizing yours to a 5in vice.

It's worth looking to see if you have any tool shops nearby that carry milling machines, even ones of a different brand. Armed with your machine's measurements you can find a "similar" sized bed on a floor model and see what a 4, 5 and 6in vice will look like. That's what I did before ordering both my mill and my vice size.

All the clamping kits are basically the exact same in the box, probably from the same company. Shop around, you can save even more money:
http://www.amazon.com/Anytime-Tools-Slot-CLAMP-CLAMPING/dp/B007DMLBRE?ie=UTF8&keywords=clamping%20kit%201%2F2%20t-slot&qid=1458758346&ref_=sr_1_6&sr=8-6

http://www.harborfreight.com/58-piece-combination-step-block-and-clamp-set-3-8-eighth-inch-16-nc-studs-1-2-half-inch-clamps-5952.html

I own that end-mill set, very happy with it.

You have two edge finders listed, a Mitutoyo edge finder and a Fowler edge and centre finder. You only need the one combo unit, and this Mitutoyo is cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/Mitutoyo-050103-Center-Finder-Diameter/dp/B002SG7PPM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458758586&sr=8-1&keywords=edge+and+center+finder

You are missing a holder for your horizontal dial indicator, which I'm presuming you're ordering for squaring up your head to the table, and your vice to the table. The magnetic base you have is great for checking run out of the spindle, and movement of the work, but not ideal for squaring up the head. I started with a clamp like this:
http://www.amazon.com/HHIP-4401-0401-Universal-Indicator-Holder/dp/B01BHHY92E?ie=UTF8&keywords=universal%20indicator%20holder&qid=1458759060&ref_=sr_1_21&sr=8-21
Which I wasn't too happy with. It works, but it's pretty easy to upset the clamp alignment and you have to start over. I have since ordered this unit: https://www.accusizetools.com/egaa-z986-zero-set/ but haven't had a need to re-square my head or vice yet. Doesn't look like it's available on Amazon though.

I notice the mill you're looking at has the option to add the X-axis power feed for $299. If you can stretch the budget, definitely go for it. I figured I would "add one later" and even though I still plan on doing so, man am I cranking away on that handle a whole lot.

It's not cheap, but I find this set of drill bits to be quite handy: http://www.amazon.com/Woodtek-928828-Boring-Machinist-Titanium/dp/B008RE2CSY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1458759539&sr=8-6&keywords=115pc+drill+bit+set

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7CZ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_ztwGybJKHHQHK


My bits are part of this series:

http://www.infinitytools.com/routing/router-bits/carbide/groove-making-router-bits/dado-planer-router-bits

This low cost bit worked surprisingly well for me:


Magnate 2705 Surface Planing ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bit - 1-1/2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006B0QX4/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_iNwGybJCQKMXB

You my friend have some big cojones to go at wenge with a rasp. The rests look like they came out very well but man that must have been some work! Much easier with a router and something like this but maybe its just because I am old and lazy! Great work!

I'm certain this goes without saying, but be certain to get carbide-tipped bits. A teflon coating is probably a good idea too since you'll be running a lot of stock through. Found these:

http://www.amazon.com/Yonico-15227-Matched-Tongue-V-Notch/dp/B00KZM2AIS

Be sure that your router table is well set up with the safety gear in place as well as sufficient infeed/outfeed tables. Spend some time getting your workplace set up so you have an easy and safe workflow (pull stock from here, run it through here while keeping hands in these spots, store the finished pieces there) -- I expect you'll need to do a lot of material, so make it easy on yourself.

Beyond that, this shouldn't be too difficult (just time consuming). Install the floor, sand it in place, finish and you should be good. Post pics when you're done, I'll be interested to see it.

I primarily use 1/4 & 1/2" roundover bits to smooth over the edges of our cutting boards. I also have:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7M5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (for putting handles on the bottom of the board)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7DM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (for juice trays)

And this bit for mortises based on the Wood Whisperer's method of creating them:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7K1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's a Bosch 1617EVS - 2-1/4HP

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004TKHV/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The bit is a Yonico 1-1/2"

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZM20GU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It worked well but I did have to remove a lot of material to get it flat and ended up making to passes per side.

Are you using a proper surfacing bit in the router? It makes a huge difference in this application. Here's a cheap one that I can't vouch for, Magnate 2705 Surface Planing ( Bottom Cleaning ) Router Bit - 1-1/2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006B0QX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eot.zbAEX7S4E

Uh, pretty sure the pointed end is a "center finder". That's what I use it for anyway.

http://youtu.be/06IGyn84lmE?t=1m23s

That's what Mitutoyo says it is.

You have a good idea too there though, but I don't think that situation comes up enough to warrant slapping one on the back of your edge finder.

This on the inside and this on the outside. Round over 1 long board and then cut it into 4 pieces.

I'd use something like this.

I just never used a router before, I don’t know how flexible I can be with it. Looks like I will get a router and learn it the hard way.

The closest bit I found is this, but it still doesn’t match the bead width: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KZM2SSK/

I would go for something like this for that. If you have that much material to take off in some spots I would opt for an electric hand planer to try and get the high spots taken off. You have to take small cuts with a flattening bit so the hand planer could help to hog off some of the higher spots before flattening.

I use a cnc spoilboard bit for the replaceable carbide cutters.

Before that I used this bit and it worked well, but sharpening it all the time got annoying. I've also used this bit before and got really good results but it takes a lot longer with the narrower width.

If you have a lower HP router, stay under 1 1/2" diameter.

I think they look great! Maybe a relief cut on the underside at each end to make it easier to pick up off a table? Maybe a small cubby that is made to fit a bic lighter? I think these are good as is though.


Did you use a router with a bowl cutting bit? I've been thinking about making rolling trays, ash trays, and maybe a sherlock stand?

This is the thing I'm talking about

http://www.amazon.com/CMT-851-502-11B-Bearing-Diameter-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000P4O5ZC

For the top face, you need one of these - https://www.amazon.com/Whiteside-Spoilboard-Surfacing-Router-Shank/dp/B071748JQN

​

And then you need to get your spindle pointing nice and accurately straight down, and you're good.

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If you go the sled route you will wants big dish bit to make quick work of flattening the top. Plus the smooth surface is from the dish bit, you won't get the same results from a straight bit. I think this is the bit I used http://www.amazon.com/CMT-851-502-11B-Bearing-Diameter-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000P4O5ZC