(Part 2) Best electrical adapters & multi-outlets according to redditors
We found 645 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical adapters & multi-outlets. We ranked the 211 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
![Loop World Adapter Plug, Worldwide Travel Adapter Charger [US UK EU AU/CN] w/Dual USB Charging Ports & Universal AC Socket - Safety Fused (Black)](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41FsDRHUiLL.jpg)
There are also these mod wires frequently bought with an Anker SD adapter.
I actually went in the opposite direction, favoring compactness over convenience. I just use a 3-outlet tap combined with the power adapter for whatever country I'm in.
I've never had issues fitting things on the outlet tap and it packs up to a tiny size.
We bought an OTF tread and rower from our studio. I googled our tread model and was able to look up how to check mileage and belt life on the tread screen. I went in and checked all the treads at my studio before I picked ours! (Check out this video on YouTube: https://youtu.be/DNJs5IPF17o)
The tread also requires a different voltage. We bought an adapter on Amazon. We plugged the adapter into a regular outlet but make sure not too much is running on the circuit while using the tread. We haven’t had trouble. Adapter: Conntek 30129 15A to 15/20A Plug Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DVE8SCE/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_Tfi8Cb2S4PSQ3
We were able to move it on a trailer but others were using pickup trucks. Someone rented a truck but the tread is too wide to go up the ramp. You’ll need to lift it. It’s heavy!!! Per the website it’s almost 600 lbs but good news... it has wheels under the front and can be rolled. Our doors were not wide enough so the top had to be disassembled but it seemed pretty easy as long as you have a little electrical/handyman knowledge. I think my husband has to use an Allen wrench.
I hope this helps!! Happy running!! 🏃🏾♂️🏃🏽♀️
Oh you definitely can have surge protectors. The picture they have there is misleading.
What they're referring to are extension cables or an outlet adapter like this
This isn't the exact one OP used, but outlets like this are indeed UL listed for face-up installation, and are specifically marked as a "furniture power distribution unit" to satisfy code. So what OP did is perfectly legal as far as NFPA is concerned.
Your concerns are valid, but your assertion about legality is incorrect...assuming the specific device OP used is properly marked and listed.
This is one made by an Australian company.
https://www.macgear.com.au/products/satechi-usb-3-0-headphone-stand
or
https://www.macfixit.com.au/bluelounge-posto-universal-headphone-stand-black/
I would also suggest that it may be easier just to buy an adapter if you want more options.
https://www.amazon.com/OREI-Australia-China-Adapter-Plug/dp/B008Y8PSWA
Hope this helps.
14/2 NMB is only rated for 15 amps, so the 20 amp outlets are against code.
if it's 14/2 NMB, acting as an appliance cord, that's also against code, and probably looks like crap.
if the whole mess is plugged into a 15 amp GFCI, he's unlikely to burn anything down.
the upstream GFCI, that the table plugs into, protects all subsequent downstream receptacles.
​
you absolutely can install your own outlets into furniture, but i would recommend going with a pre-made package, such as https://www.amazon.com/Kungfuking-Desktop-Grommet-2-Socket-Extension/dp/B01N531NK1/
​
if your friend has a DIY bug that won't quit, he at least needs to use a correct appliance cord VS NMB, and match the amp rating of the plug to the cord, and to the receptacle which will be feeding it.
/not an electrician
Speaking of products, I can say these little adapters work well for those of you that have non-standard plugs and need to rotate your Beacons to the designed-for orientation. No association with Amazon or the product maker; just a customer. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002Z7EDCC/
The white color of the swivel adapter is an excellent match with the Eero Beacon and and the offset from the wall of maybe the thickness of the Beacon itself looks quite bespoke.
I have a Fisher and Paykel Icon CPAP machine. It has a clock/alarm built in. Fantastic for travel.
Edit: also if you travel with CPAP a 3 way plug takes up no space at all and will fit anywhere unlike a power strip.
Amazon has everything
41, A flashlight. Preferably, a head mount one will be included, as well as small handheld, and normal sized. I prefer LED ones :D
■ EDIT ■
Cleaned up the listings :D
■ EDIT ■
NOT NECESSARY, but I have it... - I also have, available, a 1U Xeon X3210 server with 8GB of RAM and 2 160GB SATA drives in RAID1 as a "temporary" server if the client has a server go down and needs something up ASAP. I have them sign off that I am NOT responsible for any inadequacies in performance or functionality, it is MY equipment, I will support it 8AM to 9PM for 2 weeks, and at the end of those two weeks, I am taking it back. It is their responsibility to procure a replacement for their down server, and they are responsible for the PHYSICAL well being of my server.
S/A
I guess for the right person this might be useful? Maybe? Isn't an extension cord way more common than that type of cord end?
As far as actual electrical issues go, the box needs to have a ground wire attached, there should be a fuse or something to ensure you're not overloading the cord that goes in the bottom, and the box isn't meant to be cut into like that.
Why not just buy this.
What do you mean by "regular lamp". Is it an incandescent?
You should get CFLs with reflectors for that plant. I show how to make an efficient CFL reflector here. As a safety tip, use some electrical tape so there's no chance of the foil coming in contact with any electrical parts. I've seen enough receptacles wired up wrong in residential areas that people really should use some electrical tape with foil reflectors.
Scotch Super 33+ is a far superior electrical tape, particularly at higher temperatures, than generic electrical tape. Any electrician would tell you this.
edit: speaking of safety, a GFCI adapter is also a real good idea with foil reflectors and grow ops in general.
Gotchu
Solder
Solderless
I fabricated some of these and they're the most amazing things:
These adapters have gotten me out of some of the most insane situations. "Hey so I have a laptop but the plug doesn't work" "do you care about the LCD?" "not really" FANTASTIC! here's a cable to fix your problem.
Ive been in one hostel in 4 months that had USB power outlets. Simply put, no hostels dont offer this. Just buy adapters now cause theyre cheaper on amazon than in the stores. I guarantee you will be buying them within a day once you get to your destination.
I bought a pack on amazon for 8 bucks that has all the adapters you will need in every country you go to.
Id say ditch the solar panel (unless you plan on camping a lot) and keep the USB battery pack. Battery packs are extremely useful if your hostel is short on plugs or youre on a long train/bus/plane that has no outlets.
No, but there are cheap adapters available online. Search on your favorite e-commerce site for a rotatable surge protector adapter. They're about $9 a piece, and will protect your eero from power spikes into the bargain.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Z7EDCC for example.
Look at each of the electronic devices you're going to bring. Look at their power bricks, or near their outlet prongs. If you see something like 110V~220V, you're not taking chances, these devices are designed for multiple voltages. The only things that really need a a set voltage are heating coils, AC motors etc (think hairdryers).
As long as everything has 110~220V on it, just buy something like this or similar. You can find individual country adapters for a dollar or two at dollar stores, but I have a model similar to above. I don't need to carry around multiple adapters for a long trip, and the two USB ports are a bonus.
Michael's has coupons for one item at 50% off from time to time so I was able to get the cases for $30 each.
Here is the light strip that I got:
https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Non-waterproof-Christmas-Decoration-Daylight/dp/B00HSF65MC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1500094562&sr=8-5&keywords=led+light+strip
This is enough to do both cases. For the power since I do not have them hung up where I would like them to be yet I just got a battery pack. This is the one that I am using now:
https://www.amazon.com/Octopak-2-s-Tm-Battery-Supply/dp/B00LH31OC2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1500094692&sr=8-3&keywords=led+light+strip+battery+pack
I then bought the a Y adapter so that I could power both strips at the same time.
https://www.amazon.com/ESUMIC-Power-Female-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B00G6G5DJ0/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500094769&sr=8-2-fkmr3&keywords=led+light+strip+battery+pack+splitter
As a fellow traveler, let me just say that this thing is awesome. It's somewhat unique in that it has a ground plug, which most universal adaptors don't.
Roll #1
Roll 2
connector between both rolls
I can't answer your question definitively, but I can offer an alternative that worked well for me.
My motto when it comes to this stuff is to keep it simple, especially when it comes to electricity.
If she can get a regular extension cord, then plug in one of these, which you could then plug the E27 x2 adapter into.
Hope this helps :)
I looked through all the comments so I'm pretty confident this hasn't been mentioned yet.
Something I always travel with is an outlet converter and a small portable power strip.
This combo really come in handy when you need to use more than one outlet at once (charge a phone, laptop, and digital camera battery, etc.), especially if you're traveling with another person.
I have both of the items linked, and neither take up much room in my carry on luggage (I have an Osprey Porter 46). They're easy to tuck away in a nook, and the power strip's prongs fit into itself, eliminating bulk.
These could go really well the the battery pack many have suggested. Gotta keep all those devices juiced up!
There are four potential problems.
You want to use 24v strip in these cases in order to not have to deal with power injection, which is where novices can easily get into trouble. With 24v you can run up to 10M, or 32.8ft, and is such often sold in 10M reels. Purchase four of these and cut each down to the length of it's respective wall, being sure to only cut on the line in the center of the copper pads every 6 LEDs.
{With addressable strip, the pixel "size" is TYPICALLY determined by voltage, so for 24v strip, each 6 LEDs will act as a single "pixel," when playing back patterns, 12v strip is 3 LEDs, 5v is 1.}
After cutting the strip to length, you will want to remove the connectors from the cut off ends and solder them to your new ends. IT IS IMPORTANT FOR THIS SCENARIO TO NOT solder on the RED (+24v) wire, as it will be safer to use 4 smaller power supplies, you are only wanting to interconnect the green Data wire and white Ground wire between each strip. If using IP68 waterproof strip, don't forget to remove the silicone endcap from your cut end, replacing it on the new end with a dab of silicone sealant.
Attach the 2.1mm socket adapters to the RED (+) and White (-) bare wires at the beginning of each strip using a jewelers screwdriver. Connect the 3-pin connectors between each strip, and tape off the bare wires with electrical tape, then connect the PSUs to the last three strips. For the first strip, connect it's PSU to the 2.1mm splitter, plugging one end into the strip and the other into the controller. Wire the 3pin connector included with the controller to the Data and Ground of the controller, again in this case, DO NOT CONNECT THE RED (+24v) WIRE to the controller; just wrap the end in electrical tape. Finally, connect the 3-pin connector from the controller to the first strip and power up your PSUs. From here it's just configuring the controller with your phone or tablet.
4x: https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Visdoll-Flexible-Addressable-Programmable/dp/B075GCKPHB?th=1&psc=1
4x:https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074GJ22P6/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A325274ZEF9XYZ&psc=1
1x: https://www.amazon.com/ALITOVE-Controller-Individually-Addressable-Programmable/dp/B01LW1J10W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541825064&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4+output+ws2811+controller&psc=1
1x: https://www.amazon.com/Chanzon-Female-Connector-Security-Adapter/dp/B079RCNNCK
1x: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G6G5DJ0/ref=sspa_dk_detail_1?psc=1
Not just grounding probe for a stray voltage, but a GFCI outlet or an adapter. It will interrupt current if triggered.
wish.com has grow tents for $35.lights are easy.... walmart sells a base for light bulbs to plug in standard outlet...get surge protectors from dollar tree and plug 2 or 3 bulbs on the strip. bam your good on the cheap.
walmart has em too but i cant find link...
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Ivory-Socket-Outlet-Adapter/dp/B000VL4CFC
Also if you guys are interested these are the connection ends I used to extend the length of the cord between the throttle and stick.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-signals-Terminal-Breakout-Connector/dp/B01CU9SHOO?pf_rd_p=e361840f-1df1-4293-9f80-7520ed008721&pd_rd_wg=RI5qm&pf_rd_r=2BHCWGW6BGP55Z6T9RZB&ref_=pd_gw_bia_d0&pd_rd_w=1ekgM&pd_rd_r=8d347336-ef84-48fb-829d-0d9bf86ee026&th=1
Something like this should get you there, if they don't allow surge protectors on board. I'd see if you can find out if their plugs are three prong or two though.
IIRC, there's a newer Juul-type of device that allows for filling the pods with your own juice but I'll be buggared if I can remember the name! But something like that would be nice when strolling the Lido Deck! Enjoy the vacation!
Plug adapters:
I have 3 of these kits:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0P2GLM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I will tend to just bring one of the zipable bags with the relevant plugs for my trip. You will need UK and Euro plug adapters.
Inventory all the electronic crap you and your wife have. How are you situated for spare cables?
Basically, a lot of Euro hotels don't keep the power flowing without a keycard in the room, so you need to do all your charging at night. Don't incur stress because you are short a plug adapter
Camera - if you are bringing a DSLR, are you situated for batteries and SD cards?
I pack a collapsible umbrella and a rain coat. When I was more of a backpacker, the rain coat was rollable into a pouch.
Drugs - along with toiletries, I have a bag with Immodium AD, sunscreen, antacid, ibuprofen, bandaids(plasters).
I am not one of those carry on only people.
Extension cord may work? *
Heaters certainly make it easier to sell to roommates
And start with what you are spending per year on paper. Probably pay for itself before the warranty expires.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GSPTUZG/
Kungfuking Desktop Power Grommet Conference Recessed Power Strip in Desk Outlet Power Socket 2-Socket &2-USB Ports 9.85 FT Extension Power Cord (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N531NK1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7nm1DbF3K5CTW
Be sure to use a GFCI!
> I was curious about whether I can just use my electronic appliances using converters
If you want to run your 110V devices here you will need a Step Down Transformer like this one. That's the cheapest one, $120 for 120 Watts. They do have larger ones, up to 1000 Watts. You need to check out how much power your appliance will use, and buy one with at least that amount.
Of course, if your device can handle 230V then you would just need to buy an adapter like this one
The best I can think of is something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DXWPHS
with one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VL4CFC
I got one of these GFCI power cords to prevent that from happening with mine.
https://www.amazon.com/360-Electrical-36083-1-Outlet-Protector/dp/B002Z7EDCC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=rotating+plug+adapter&qid=1568281283&sprefix=rotating+plug&sr=8-3
They even have a 4 outlet version and it’s a surge protector so may as well give the eero a little protection, can’t hurt
Ah, this type of thing looks familiar. VGA + PS/2 KVM switches spread round with tons of power strips and adapters, plus ethernet cables everywhere, used for multiple computers, probably repair.
Use those power bars, remove all of the other strips and just use Universal power cords with adapters like these, this, and that on the ends for various purposes. It basically becomes your own customizable, variable power squid
Might take velcro and bundle some of those together if necessary too.
We figured that out recently for our shop for similar usage and it have been a lifesaving revelation.
And if you need some special type of adapters, here's the listings from Wikipedia common cord ends.
You should just use a 24VDC Wall wart instead of this switching power supply. Here is one:
https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Adapter-5-5x2-5mm-UL-Listed-3206-24V/dp/B002LMQ6G2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519701692&sr=1-3&keywords=24vdc+power+supply
Just cut the wires and determine which is ground and + with a multimeter. Use this as the input to the L298N board. Then you can power your Arduino with the common ground and +5V terminal. This might work a little bit better than using the switching power supply that you have noted above
I use Epicka Rated one of the best all around with quick charge, and USB - C by wirecutter. I use it for nearly everything now since it has so many ports, and its pretty compact for what it does.
Something like this should work for the power. Not sure if it will run on just power without seeing schematics.
https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Adapter-5-5x2-5mm-UL-Listed-3206-24V/dp/B002LMQ6G2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1509794836&sr=8-4&keywords=24v+power+supply&dpID=51ZnVe2x07L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
by a GFCI BEFORE you connect anything to live power, one of these literally saved my life:
http://www.amazon.com/TRC-90265-6-012-Shockshield-Portable-Protection/dp/B000XU5MEG/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1322343706&sr=8-7
Follow the good advice of the others in this thread.
There are many portable GFCI solutions, some even integrated into extension cords. Search online or check out a local hardware store.
You could use something like this outlet tap and it should be safe to connect power strips to it as long as you are not exceeding the power ratings. But I do not know much so do your own research.
I would much rather have one of these and one of these connected to it. Now you have 5 regular outlets available and 5 usb ports available. All for about the same cost and you get to put the brick in a more convenient place instead of having you bend down and plug in the cable to the wall.
I'm coming from the US, and I'm bringing something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Worldwide-Adapter-Charging-International-Charger/dp/B00Y3ABJKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1454107246&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=international+plug&psc=1
My wife and I use this for our international travels and it works pretty well. I would recommend it heavily because it really does work well, we've used in Iceland, UK, Netherlands, and Hong Kong. Pretty much everything you need USB power for will run off this or that one you are looking at now.
These wires are recommended in the hardmod thread. I used them twice myself, and they worked great.
How does it compare to this though? https://www.amazon.com/EPICKA-Universal-Travel-Adapter-Power/dp/B078S3M2NX/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Epicka+Universal+Travel+Adapter&qid=1565279657&s=hi&sr=1-4
> Any tips re: where I can find these two different thickness locks you are referring to?
I don't think locks come in specific sizes. Here's the two I had: http://i.imgur.com/FyD1aQ0l.jpg
> I saw you're tripod charging thing, brilliant idea. Where can I find one of those?
http://www.amazon.com/Outlet-Wall-Adapter-Shaped-Prong/dp/B0081A4GEC
> Packing cubes: yours looked great, where can I find those?
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=packing+cubes
> I will reach out with more questions as they come.
Unless you're flying business, it'll be a little tricky finding a mains to plug in. Also, if you absolutely need to use your laptop during your flight (it won't be comfortable, again, unless you're in business), try getting one of those world traveler adapters . something like this
Like this kind of sunken outlet in Hungary?
[Epicka Universal Travel Adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/EPICKA-Universal-Travel-Adapter-Power/dp/B078S3M2NX)
Do you have a ton of things to charge but not enough outlets?
You need a mega outlet
Just plug it in and you can plug 3x more things into your one outlet.
Just grab one of these and a standard to candelabra converter and you're back in business. Total cost may be like 5-8 bucks.
I don't understand how to do that. But here is my motor: http://www.zhengkemotor.com/product/product59.html
I'll be running it at 24V and it is the 70 rpm model. EDIT: I found the specs for this motor on line (probably would have been good to understand this before taking a stab in the dark).
At 24V the 70 rpm (no load) model uses ≤ 100MA. Under "Rated Load" it has a speed of 80 RPM (how is that higher?) with Current of ≤.6A and Torque of 10 kg/cm. Stall Torque is 15 kg/cm with a Stall Current of 1.4A. The gear reducer ratio is 1:50.
Amazon motor description said the "rated voltage" is 24. So for the power supply I got this one. It can accept 100-240VAC and uses 1.5A . It outputs 24V at 2.5A. (That is higher than the Stall Current. Is that a problem?)
I went back to check the spec on the speed controller that I have and while it LOOKS just like those DC PWM motor controllers, the one that I bought was described as an AC Voltage Regulator accepting inputs of 110-220V and outputting AC10v to whatever the input voltage is. Maximum wattage is 4000W. So I believe I will use this to dial down my blower motor on my chaff collector/air flow controller and order the proper DC motor controller today. Does that give you enough info to do the math? (TIA)
This is what I used for the setup:
LED Strip lights
Plug splitter
[LED Power supply extension]
(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FTH6WNS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
LED Lights remote adapter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LMQ6G2/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1486353579&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=24+volt+power+supply Would this work with something like this https://www.adafruit.com/products/368?gclid=CJySv_bL-tECFdgIgQodgTgAeg to run wires to the relay and drivers?
They are stranded, plus they do seem like they are small.
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Balance-Charger-JST-XH-Connector/dp/B00REFEOWO/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&dpID=41MqZsFNyhL&dpPl=1&keywords=jst%20xh%20connector&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&qid=1456520190&ref=plSrch&ref_=mp_s_a_1_3&sr=8-3
Hey guys, I'm going to hardmod my n3dsxl and was recommended these cables
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Balance-Charger-JST-XH-Connector/dp/B00REFEOWO/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?ie=UTF8&dpID=41MqZsFNyhL&dpPl=1&keywords=jst%20xh%20connector&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&qid=1456520190&ref=plSrch&ref_=mp_s_a_1_3&sr=8-3
but I can't get them, and this is my first time hardmodding so I don't want to order the wrong bits
can anyone recommend some cables that I could use within the uk?
thanks
Backpacking off this - I found this universal adapter on amazon.
I'm not sure since it is so new. If you can take it back to the store that's probably your best option on getting a new board. This would be to save a possible rma and downtime while you wait on ASUS reps. The cost of the item is like 12 bucks. https://www.amazon.com/Organizer-EEPROM-CH341A-Programmer-Module/dp/B07R5LPTYM/ref=sr_1_1?crid=ITD2T6C0D9D5&keywords=ch341a&qid=1563824279&s=gateway&sprefix=ch3%2Caps%2C271&sr=8-1
i've used it 3 times now to fix bad flashes
flashrom is free and works in linux (off of a live usb even) you just have to get the chip clip on the legs properly which isn't super ez but can be done with a little fiddling.
​
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2Y06x1f22B0&t=601s
https://www.amazon.com/Worldwide-Adapter-International-Charging-Universal/dp/B00Y3ABJKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467336506&sr=8-1&keywords=loop+power+adapter
This is the one I have, and the one I see recommended the most. I've used it in Iceland and mainland Europe and it works great. Haven't personally tried it in the UK, but it has the adapter for it.
Is that the HDMI cable? You might be able to use something like this to patch it, but it'll be tricky.
https://www.amazon.com/Adapter-signals-Terminal-Breakout-Connector/dp/B01CU9SHOO/
I ended up splurging for the CH341A programmer with SOIC8 clip for a whopping $9.98 shipped, flashed the latest SeaBIOS for Acer C720 'PEPPY', and installed GalliumOS 3.0 from a 2.0 GB SD card. This is me typing away on that very same machine, back from the dead and zippier than ever before. The only hickups were that I needed to build flashrom from scratch, because the version on my Linux box was kinda old and Mr Chromebox's complained about a missing libpci.so.3 library, that the flashing came back with a verification error the first time, and that GalliumOS wouldn't connect to WiFi until the installation was complete and the system clock was corrected, but that's still what I consider smooth sailing. I understand that ChromeOS cannot be run anymore with this BIOS, but that's fine with me, since Google considers the machine EOL anyway.
I'm a happy camper now. Thanks everyone for pitching in!
Someone else mentioned using a rotating surge protector that goes between the beacon and the wall. Would using one of these interfere with the beacon, or be worse than putting in a new wall socket in the right orientation?
UPS Server Y Splitter C14 to 2 x C13 Power Extension Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G1JMFZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K0iACbJVTRBDS
SF Cable, 3 prong Plug Adapter, USA NEMA 5-15R to IEC 60320-C14 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004OC579E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t1iACbDXVX13S
You will then need a power supply that provides the correct current capacity. If you use the whole 15m of ribbon, that is 12A for that ribbon.
Also, that's a really long run for LED ribbon. You will see voltage drop, especially in this cheap stuff. You can combat this by running power to both ends of the ribbon. You could also cut it into several smaller strips, but you will need a controller for each section.
It is possible if you line everything up correctly but I recommend this because you may accidentally use a usb c cable to usb to do it but it has to be an sd card reader.
edit: Why hardmod if you can just get a flashcart and get all the perks as a hardmod without the risk.
These are the power supplies I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A3R5R5S/ref=cm_cd_asin_lnk
I used these splitters:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G6G5DJ0
I'm running two LED strips off each power supply using the splitters.
I'm also an 18 year old American who has travelled alone with another friend through Europe so maybe my tips can help, even though you'll be gone longer than I was:
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Backpacks: When I travel, I tend to take my 21L backpack (I've backpacked through Europe for 12 days and 9 days, and some other places in the states), and have had good luck, although I wish I had a bigger bag, maybe 30-40L, so I can't really help you in what bag to get. For clothes, you could definitely get away with packing for 7 days and just washing them at the hostels.
Electronics: I obviously brought my phone with me, but I also brought an iPad rather than a laptop to cut down on weight since I was lugging my backpack everywhere I went, but if you need to bring your laptop then do it. I brought chargers for my devices as well as a power adapter that allowed me to plug in US wall adapters to European wall sockets. Something like this (that's the worldwide one so you can use it in every country). I also brought some headphones for traveling but that's personal preference.
Anti-Theft: Every time I've been abroad, I've never had issues with pick pockets, but that doesn't mean it doesn't happen. I was fine keeping valuables in an inaccessible pocket in my backpack (like a backside pocket), and my wallet and phone in my front pocket, and I would keep my hands in those pockets if I ever felt like it was necessary. Like I said, I'm also 18 but have never had any issues with theft.
Money: I had a AAA rechargeable debit card, but you can talk to your bank and see their rates for international use. I just used my AAA debit card and withdrew cash from ATMs and paid a small fee (I think $3 USD), so I would look into that if possible. If you're using your bank definitely don't forget to contact them so they don't deny your card, because that would be bad.
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Sorry for writing a mini-novel, but I hope this helped at least a little bit. I know when I first went I didn't really have anyone but YouTubers helping me, but the best thing to do is to just try it out and see what works and doesn't for next time. Have a fun time, Europe is amazing :)
I got the parts on Amazon cause it's quicker, but you can get them cheaper from AliExpress if you don't mind waiting a while. I used an HDMI terminal board and a female/female on each side.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CU9SHOO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_BPozkZpsI162Q
> If I go through and buy the 710 14 on the US site there shouldn't be any difference other than the adapter?
Not really.
But be aware that Lenovo doesn't offer an international warranty. Even if the Lenovo Yoga 710 14 is available in Australia, they might not service a US unit in Australia if something fails.
> I was looking at the adapters they sell on the AUS store but wasn't sure which one I would buy IF I bought the 710 on the US site.
Couldn't you just buy one of these?
https://www.amazon.com/OREI-Australia-China-Adapter-Plug/dp/B008Y8PSWA
> I like the Dell a lot. Comparing to the 710 do you think it's better and worth the money?
It's not better. It's more or less the same. Specs and build quality is comparable. It's just that you have something that is bought local, thus also something with a local warranty.
A space heater is way too much heat. You probably want something in the range of 20-50 watts. Frankly if the ambient temp is 60 ºF already you may not need any heat at all but if you have a temp controller that supports it you might as well.
I think your concerns about fire are overblown. There is absolutely nothing flammable in a chest freezer with fermenting beer. Also even if somehow it does catch on fire it is inside a metal box. Plugging the heater into a GFCI should take care of any electrocution concerns. (Everything involving moisture + electricity should also be plugged into a GFCI. If you don't have GFCI outlets you can always pick up a GFCI plug which does the same thing.)
For a while I just had a small reading lamp with a 40 watt bulb in my fermentation chamber. Obviously you need to find an old-fashioned incandescent... an LED "40 watt equivalent" puts out almost no heat.
You need one of these. It's a surge protector that plugs into your outlet and can rotate 360 degrees.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Z7EDCC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_3lrBDbQYSSMPZ
Has never let me down
Thanks for the reply - I will test this once I'm back home. All of the lamps are either plugged into outlets that have an adapter similar to this or an outlet that can be controlled by a wall switch. Not sure if this has an effect or not.
https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-30129-15A-Plug-Adapter/dp/B00DVE8SCE/ref=pd_cp_86_3/135-2489551-2752008
Here's a link to a random one of amazon, they are also known as a GFI or GFCI.
They are a fuse type device, from what I understand this is how it works; normally the current flowing out of the plug is the same amount as flowing back in. If electricity starts 'leaking out' of the circuit, such as when you got zapped by your tank, the current going out and in to the plug are different, the RCD detects this difference and the circuit is broken, stopping the flow of electricity before any harmful effects.
Additionally they will typically break the circuit in the event of a powercut due to their design, so will need to be reset when the power comes on for the tank to regain power. Although specialist aquarium RCDs can be purchased that don't do this.
Thanks, I had my order coming in today anyway I ordered this set from amazon as they had next day delivery for it, so I will have it in few hours!
But for future projects I see the value in your ez hook - looks like the build quality is way better might last longer, is it rubberized outside?
Here is the adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-30129-15A-Plug-Adapter/dp/B00DVE8SCE
I have a Ranar DX-200 that I made a converter for to plug it in to a regular 15A receptacle. When we had our plugs put in the basement they were put on a 15A fuse but the lines were made to be able to handle 20A, this way if it pulls too much the fuse on the panel will pop and the lines won't catch the house on fire. I've never popped the circuit when only running the dryer and it's product listing says the same thing. That being said, don't take any of my advice as fact.
one of these would answer your question:
Amazon1 Amazon2
You didn't hear this from me, but you can. If you have the 10-30 I prefer that because it has a lower amperage rating, but lacks a neutral. With a GFI pigtail at 15A you can cut off the male end and expose the black, white, green wires underneath. On your nema 10-30 male plug you land the white on the center blade, the black on one of the side blades and leave the other side blade alone. Safe off the ground.
This is not safe because 30A is available and your device is rated at 15A. If there was anything but a direct short this GFI and anything plugged into it will melt and probably catch fire.
Let's make it a little safer. Connect the white like I said, but put an inline fuse at 15A on the side blade instead of landing the hot directly. Connect the other side of the fuse holder to the black wire from the cord. Put in a 15A fuse. There should be enough room in the big plug housing for it to fit. If not have the fuse itself stick out next to the cord.
It technically still isn't 100%. While the low voltage fuse can handle 15A. If it blows it may not actually break the arc. The thing is it has a chance better than not using it and will hopefully save the gfci part of the cord on an overload.
So what are we going to do to make it safer? This is for one and only one appliance, your bike charger.
To make it safer use this fmn fuse holder with this fuse 15A and even 20A is acceptable here, the package I linked has one of each. The fuse holder will need to be crimped to the bare wire and electrical taped over the crimped ends. This will not fit in the plug housing but otherwise should be used instead of the low voltage holder.
If you have the nena 10-50 connect the white to the center flat blade, the green to the opposite bent peg, and the black to one of the side blades, ignoring the other one. Insert the fuse holders in between the gfi and the nema 10-50 plug like I described above.
All this assumes the building super left the power on those circuits. I'd test them first before you get to deep in this project.