(Part 3) Best electrical adapters & multi-outlets according to redditors

Nice hack. IKEA wants to be sure there are no toddlers around to climb the drawers, however ;-)

Also, I just found out about these, which were a lifesaver when I got a new couch that fit snug against the wall.

Sleek Socket: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077NPK9GC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8C6jDb1KRZTHG

And perhaps a plant. But Sleek Socket really helps in my place. It's easier to hide cords when the ugly wall socket problem is solved.

I'm sorry if maybe I used inappropriate terminology, but I believe I did this by the book. I hired a professional electrician to replace my entire panel with a whole new one that had a transfer switch built-in. The new panel has two sides, two vertical rows of breaker switches. On the left side, the top one is the main switch to turn the power on and off from the power company. On the right side, the top similar breaker is the one which turns the generator line on and off. In between, there is a physical slider which stops both of those breakers from being on at the same time. So you have to first switch the mains off, then slide the slider over, then you can switch the generator on, and with the slider over to the left, it's physically not possible to have the power company at risk from the generator, since that breaker is off and cannot be on at the same time as the generator. As far as I know, this is as "by the book" as you can get. The whole panel is designed around being a transfer switch panel, and it was installed by a professional. This is not the same as "backfeeding", as far as I know.

The PB30 inlet is what the same electrician installed on the outside of my house. It is connected to the generator transfer switch in the new panel.

I explained what I was doing with the cord to my electrician, and he told me it made sense. When I explained "white to bright, green to ground" I was just using colloquial terms. I know how to wire up a plug, and I know how the inlet works with the ground, neutral and two hot (X and Y).

As I said, I'm not trying to run any 220V appliances with my generator. I have those breakers turned off while I am on generator power. So all I want to do is make the 120V that the generator is putting out be available to all the breakers in the panel. As far as I'm aware, there is no safety issue with this, since all I am doing is supplying power to both sides of the same panel. There is no danger to the power company, and I don't see why it would be causing any fires, since the 10 gauge line I am using is rated to 30 amps, same for the plugs, they are all overspec for what that little generator will be putting out. Even if I'm using the Companion, with the two generators hooked together, with the 30 amp outlet, even then I am operating within the spec of what has been installed.

I'm not sure if there has been some kind of misunderstanding about what I'm doing, or if all of this still somehow constitutes "backfeeding" (I thought that was the practice of simply putting power back into the house through one of the regular outlets e.g. the dryer, but that's not what I'm doing at all - like I said, it's all being done through a new panel which has a dedicated transfer switch setup integral to the design of the thing, and installed by a professional electrician).

I know that bridging the XY terminals in the L14-30 connector isn't how that was designed to be, it was designed to have four wires, but all I'm doing is feeding the same 120V to both sides of the panel. There is no other interaction between the two sides, the utility power is completely isolated via the transfer switch, so I don't see what the problem is here. I have read about people doing this very same thing, in fact they even sell a connector which does the same as what I'm doing, e.g.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVE92WE/

I got this, along with a couple of other components to do what I needed in order to connect all of this together:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TO4WCS/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00635OU84/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F17Q8BM/

In the end, though, I decided to also try making my own custom cord, once I understood just what was happening in order to get from 3 wire to the 4 wire L14-30, it seemed like it would be a cleaner setup to just have the cord and connectors, without all the intermediary adapters.

I really think I did my homework on this, I paid a professional to install the transfer switch and give me a bona fide inlet to connect my generator to. My only task was to get the power to both sides of the panel, and I believe I did this in a way that makes sense and doesn't introduce any particular safety hazards to the situation. So I'm not sure why I'm getting flack for this, but if I'm making some huge mistake then please feel free to educate me.

(Almost) everything is more expensive in Australia. Food, housing, and clothing will cost more. If you need anything semi-substantial for your trip, such as new shoes, buy them in the US and bring them along. Depending on where you go, Australian winters may be colder and wetter than you realize, so plan accordingly.

If you're bringing any electronics along, double-check that they can be used with 220/240V outlets. This information will usually be somewhere on the item or on its AC adapter. Check your chargers, too! And don't forget to buy some three-prong adapters ahead of time. (Note that adapters do not make 110V-only items safe to use in Australia. Leave your 110V-only items at home.)

Before you get on the plane, you should definitely find a place to stay your first several nights in Australia. At the airport, they'll expect you to provide your intended address, such as a hotel. Also, you'll be jetlagged for about two weeks; don't expect to be able to look for work or proper housing during this time.

Make sure you have a copy of your visa acceptance letter containing your visa information (even if it's an e-visa and they claim the number is now connected to your passport) and bring it with you to the airport. I did this, and it helped me get through the lines faster, and the folks at the airport thanked me for it.

It's also wise to put a sheet of paper with your identifying information—your name, passport number, flight numbers, phone numbers, Australian address, and American address—inside each of your suitcases. And bring another copy of this information with you, so you'll have it on hand when they ask for your Australian address.

Have cash (ideally a couple hundred dollars or more) on hand at the airport, in both USD and AUD. It might be a few days before you can get hold of any AUD in Australia, and you don't want to be effectively destitute in the meantime. A credit card that can be used overseas is good, too, though I don't recommend making regular use of it due to fees.

Make sure you understand LAX's layout before you get there. Depending on your flights and how groggy you're feeling, it can be very confusing and may require bus rides. Don't buy plane tickets that only give you a short time to make your connecting flight at LAX; give yourself at least a couple hours.

Save all your plane ticket stubs, etc. This is in case you need to prove anything. When I came over, I got a jury summons and I had to send the judge pictures of my plane tickets to prove I wasn't just trying to dodge jury duty (an arrestable offense where I'm from).

Obviously, you'll want to get a bank account when you arrive. Getting your money from the US to Australia can be tricky. Definitely talk to the people at your American bank and get their advice before you go. In my case, I added my mother to my American bank account. Then when I arrived and opened a new bank account, I asked her to transfer my money to my Australian bank. You might be able to use a debit card instead, but you'll have to work this out with your bank ahead of time.

When you arrive, you'll want to apply for a Tax File Number. You'll need a mailing address, such as a P.O. Box, to receive this. You can start working before you get it, but you'll definitely want to get it soon or you'll be placed in the highest tax bracket.

I'm assuming these are located in an unfinished part of your basement? Unless your local code says different then it's illegal to remove GFCI protection from these.

My recommendation would be to run your dedicated circuit and then install two GFCIs and plug each pump into it's own receptacle. That way a fault on one one doesn't take out both.

You can install alarmed GFCIs for good measure, but they aren't super loud so you won't be able to hear them from upstairs.

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-A7899-I-SmartlockPro-Audible-120-volt/dp/B00M1VLF00

https://www.amazon.com/Desktop-Grommet-2-Socket-Convex-Surface/dp/B071ZG9Q45

Your Welcome.

Here you go.

I always prefer to have cables on the shortest run possible, so to avoid that plug making a loop from the wall to the computer, I got one of these rotating plugs. Just a personal preference.

Looks amazing overall though


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001QG8LWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_wChvzb3G6DVTM

So, you can actually buy 5-15p to L5-30R adapters. You're right about power consumption though - you'll be above the recommended 1500W maximum on a 15A circuit with the additional load of the UPS's battery charger (usually on the order of a few hundred watts). I run my 2.5kVa UPS on a standard 15A circuit, but the load is only 500-700W.

Is the dryer plug 4 wires, with a neutral? If that's the case you can adapt it to a 120V load without any rewiring. You'll probably need a 14-30 to L14-30 adapter so you can plug one of these in, or find them manufactured as one adapter.

Those are made-to-order by "some guy", so a bit of further research may be desired if you want an ETL or UL listed version. The quality looks decent but you could of course make them yourself; the parts are available at any supply house or even at a big box home improvement store.

You can also have an electrician change out the breaker and outlet on the dryer plug, which would be pretty quick and easy. Call your landlord, usually they're amenable to that kind of modification as long as you can undo it when you move out. Alternatively you could offer to have an outlet installed, which wouldn't have to be undone but would cost more.

And, for the lazy people out there who don't feel like turning off the electrical part of your house to change the outlets:

https://www.amazon.com/Bestten-Protector-Charging-Holders-Certified/dp/B016OS162C/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1493640732&sr=8-6&keywords=usb+outlet+adapter

Check the power adapter to see if its 120v-240v. I'm away from home so I can't check mine.

If its only 120v, you need this:
http://www.amazon.com/Portable-International-Converter-Interchangeable-Worldwide/dp/B00MSTG93S/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1449962906&sr=1-1&keywords=240v+to+120v+converter

If it says 120v to 240v you just need one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Grounded-Universal-Adapter-Companion-Converter/dp/B00RBFK552/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1449962986&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=Travel+adapter&psc=1

You could also just buy a European power adapter. I know the 3DS is only 120v.

It seems like you are more inclined to cheap and clever than spending a bunch of money to do things the "right" way. So I have just the thing for you.

Irrigation solenoid valves are cheap and simple. They open when you apply 24 volts AC and close when you take it away. Couple them with a 24 VAC wall wart and a smart outlet/timer outlet and you have yourself a smart irrigation zone. Note that the irrigation valves are pipe thread, so you'd need adapters if you are going to hook them to garden hoses.

Bonus points if you get something like the Sonoff 4ch Pro that has 4 independent switches that work with essentially any voltage AC or DC up to 10a each channel, then you can control all 4 zones with one device and one transformer.

Really? Thats what you went with?

In any case Mrs. Edwina Graves, here you go:

http://www.amazon.com/VCT-VP-Universal-Australia-ArgentinaTravel/dp/B00374I2T2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407006698&sr=8-1&keywords=chinese+power+adaptor

http://www.travelchinaguide.com/essential/electricity.htm

converter, no. adapter, yes.

i picked up a pack of these

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RBFK552/

and they worked great for everything i plugged in. (laptop, phone, vita).

the adapter basically removes the ground pin (and makes sure both prongs are the same size) but doesn't actually changes how much voltage is coming through.

Not quite following what you are trying to accomplish..pic may help.

This 90 hug mini extension may work or this small pop out 90

The outlet you have is probably called NEMA 10-30R. The problem is it has no grounding. Adapters like this one are available, but are unsafe. Mining rigs and PDUs tend to emit high leakage current. That's why your hand starts buzzing when you touch a rack full of mining rigs that's improperly grounded. I would just pay $100-200 to get the receptacle replaced with a proper L6-30R one.

Then don't do it.

Buy a rotating adapter instead. Something like this.
360 Electrical 36030-2CA6ES-R1 4-Outlet Rotating Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001QG8LWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kguKDb22TR237

Power:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Z9X4GLW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since the MiniDelta uses a non-standard barrel plug, I pieced these two connectors together for an adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01G6EBCFU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IBFNQP6/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All alarm switches are unpowered, they are simple open/close contacts. That's why the motion detectors have an extra pair that carries power to them (12v). I actually just put those pairs on my screw terminal block too, and then I literally just use something like this.

and run two wires from the output terminals of the connector that comes with that to the screw terminals. If I wanted to get really fancy, I could get a 12v battery charger circuit involved too, but it wouldn't power the Pi without a lot more work getting the 12v down to 5v somehow and all that, and I didn't want to deal with that yet.

I bought this off Amazon for my Emerson Sensi:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L4DN5R2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Works great and super easy to install.

You can't use a regular RV adapter, it's not wired correctly.

This guide covers making a working adapter from TT-30 to the included 14-50 plug: http://cosmacelf.net/Home%20Made%20Adapters.pdf

This video describes how to re-wire a"barrel style" RV adapter so it can charge the Tesla: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUI_JcS2nJ0

Note that neither of those adapters conform to the NEC (National Electrical Code), so if there's a fire your insurance won't cover it. You'll also have to make sure the current is set back (GPS based current settings should cover this). The fastest completely compliant solution that doesn't involve running a thicker wire would be to use a 5-20 converter or outlet and charge at 16 amps instead of 24.

https://shop.teslamotors.com/products/nema-5-20

https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-Male-Female-Connector-Adapter/dp/B00268WS72

It's easily adapted to a normal household style outlet, but won't charge the car any faster than the OUC can charge the car. This is the adapter needed. https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-14103-TT-30P-Plug-Adapter/dp/B00268WS72

Any hardware store would have them.

Something like this would be better. It sticks out from the wall a little bit more but it is more secure and is grounded.

Here's a couple of adapters you can use:
One from Amazon
and another from an RV Store. I've never dealt with these kind of cords before but then I've never worked on RV trailers. There's an IMPORTANT common sense thing here to keep in mind. Both of these adapters are made to plug your 30 amp cord into a 15 amp receptacle. That means that you'll never be able to get more than 15 amps from the outlet. It will be safe but if you try to use too much electricity in your RV, you'll pop the breaker that feeds the outlet you're plugging into. And that can happen over and over again when you're watching a DVD, the electric refrigerator (vs. propane) comes on and the 13 year old daughter is blow drying her hair in a hurry so she can go out with that boy she met from 3 trailers down and get away from the 'rents for a while, ermahgerd. And if its raining outside and you're flipping that breaker back on, that could be VERY dangerous.

Oh, one more thing, DO NOT USE AN EXTENSION CORD. Just park closer to the damn outlet. ;)

It's fine, you simply need to physically adapt the prongs to the other outlet styles. Like this or this.

It means it has 30 amp service. What the other poster said below is WRONG. You can hook up a heavy duty extension cord with an adapter to a 30 amp RV connection and plug your stuff in without a problem.

http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-Male-Female-Connector-Adapter/dp/B00268WS72/

The 30 amp RV connections are all 120V. 30 amps just means you can draw more current than a typical 15 amp circuit.

Bulky and bendy? You can get a simple, tiny block for a little over $5.

https://www.amazon.com/Conference-Recessed-Desktop-Grommet-2-Outlet/dp/B071ZG9Q45?source=ps-sl-shoppingads-lpcontext&psc=1

Something like this? To DIY you're going to spend so much more money and time.

12v, my bad. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LXME815/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1488052144&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=12v+power+supply&dpPl=1&dpID=41OhLWKghQL&ref=plSrch

I've tried the Mogics Bagel, but ended up selling it. It was still pretty heavy and bulky. If your needs are just a laptop + a phone charger, then it is overkill.

Here's my current set up:

• Hug-A-Plug 2 outlet adapter
  
• A regular cheapo travel adapter for US plugs
  
• Laptop charger (240V compatible)
  
• AUKEY USB Wall Charger, (240V compatible)
  
  The bulk of the weight/space is taken up by the laptop charger, which is a requirement anyways.
  

Oh. Thanks a lot. The general consensus I found settled on this adapter.

Cool I imagine it's a pretty easy installation? Or do you recommend I get an adapter like this http://www.amazon.com/NEMA-L14-30P-6-15-Plug-Adapter/dp/B004XWAKUQ?

That’s better than what I used https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075PJYVMG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1wEBDbEAV5QDY but I already had one of mine

I got this: European Travel Plug Adapter,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FJWLLDB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Technically using this and this would work, but you should just have an electrician change the dryer breaker to a two-pole 15 amp and change the outlet to a 6-15.

probably "cube taps" as they are called https://www.amazon.com/3-Outlet-Grounding-Kasonic-Extender-Heavy-Duty/dp/B075PJYVMG/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540442827&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=cube+tap&psc=1

or as u/moldboy suggested, din rail terminal

That PDU should work fine, you will still have to change the plug out though.... should be able to get one from home depot or lowes. If you cant find the correct end to install on the pdu then you will have to change the plug/box completely out and install a new box/twist lock plug to go with the original twist lock that comes on the pdu.

Parkworld 885439 Adapter Cord NEMA 10-30P Male to L6-30R Female, 30A, 250V, 1.5' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792QVNB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cO9SBbYW6MTYB

That should work for you.

European Travel Plug Adapter, TESSAN International Power Plug with 2 USB, Outlet Adaptor for US to Most of Europe EU Spain Iceland Italy (Type C) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FJWLLDB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_P9mBDb1RN0NPW


Dk if link will work but i use this one.. pretty nice. Also defends on what your charging.. they use different types of power here. Like don’t uses a hair dryer or straightener with one of these types without a converter.

All right! This has been incredibly instructive.

My plan is now:

1. Dump the power bar/surge suppressor.
   
   
2. Get a non-surge suppressed 1 -> 6 "passive" power tap.
   
   I have more questions:
   
   
3. Is there still going to be a preferred plug polarity for the transformer? What would be the consequences if I plugged it in backwards?
   
   
4. Should I attempt to return the transformer and find another?
   
   
5. All the 1 -> 6 power taps I can find seem to require two outlets - like this one. What would happen if I plugged it into a single plug and left the other ground hanging?
   
   
6. Given I have established a polarity for the power bar with potentially dangerous surge suppressor that doesn't make it pop the breakers, what risk do I entail in using that power bar in the that polarity for the next two weeks until the part arrives from the USA?
   
   Thanks again. My beverage karma to you all is immense.

Easiest option.

Had the same thoughts about USB either wearing it or getting outdated, settled on (something similar) to these in a few places... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016OS162C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hdBFzbRFSYF3S

Mind telling us the brand and model of these speakers?

Mount them in a wall that is not finished on the other side?

One can run 12v power over the same CL2 cable that would be legal in-wall as speaker-cable, and barrel-plug terminals are available in most sizes that make such extensions easy. You still need an accessible spot to transition from in-wall cable to the plug-in power-adapter cable -- which has to be outside of the wall and ceiling.

My preference would be one of the bluetooth amplifiers that mounts in a standard single-gang wall-box, and passive-speakers. This also gives you a volume knob that might normally be never touched but is convenient when you are on a phone call and someone else in the family is trying to play COD on the computer upstairs and not working out why they aren't hearing anything, upstairs.

I'd also not put them in the ceiling if soundproofing to/from upstairs is at all a concern.

does somebody knows If I buy a Nintendo Switch from Europe, and use one of this will it work?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I9F3ONC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AA6OXOM7IEXHP

Conntek 14101 15A to TT-30R RV Plug Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TO4WCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2K3UCbYJSYAZY

Fortunately, your builder did you a service and did it right.

You do not want to down rate your outlet. You want to use an adapter. Don’t change a thing.

It is probably an l14-30 plug so this should work:

https://www.amazon.com/NEMA-L14-30P-6-15-Plug-Adapter/dp/B004XWAKUQ


Take a picture of the receptical and upload it and I can tell you exactly what you need.

Edit: Oh look. Down votes for trying to help.