(Part 2) Best electrical adapters according to redditors
We found 519 Reddit comments discussing the best electrical adapters. We ranked the 154 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
We bought an OTF tread and rower from our studio. I googled our tread model and was able to look up how to check mileage and belt life on the tread screen. I went in and checked all the treads at my studio before I picked ours! (Check out this video on YouTube: https://youtu.be/DNJs5IPF17o)
The tread also requires a different voltage. We bought an adapter on Amazon. We plugged the adapter into a regular outlet but make sure not too much is running on the circuit while using the tread. We haven’t had trouble. Adapter: Conntek 30129 15A to 15/20A Plug Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DVE8SCE/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_Tfi8Cb2S4PSQ3
We were able to move it on a trailer but others were using pickup trucks. Someone rented a truck but the tread is too wide to go up the ramp. You’ll need to lift it. It’s heavy!!! Per the website it’s almost 600 lbs but good news... it has wheels under the front and can be rolled. Our doors were not wide enough so the top had to be disassembled but it seemed pretty easy as long as you have a little electrical/handyman knowledge. I think my husband has to use an Allen wrench.
I hope this helps!! Happy running!! 🏃🏾♂️🏃🏽♀️
I'm sorry if maybe I used inappropriate terminology, but I believe I did this by the book. I hired a professional electrician to replace my entire panel with a whole new one that had a transfer switch built-in. The new panel has two sides, two vertical rows of breaker switches. On the left side, the top one is the main switch to turn the power on and off from the power company. On the right side, the top similar breaker is the one which turns the generator line on and off. In between, there is a physical slider which stops both of those breakers from being on at the same time. So you have to first switch the mains off, then slide the slider over, then you can switch the generator on, and with the slider over to the left, it's physically not possible to have the power company at risk from the generator, since that breaker is off and cannot be on at the same time as the generator. As far as I know, this is as "by the book" as you can get. The whole panel is designed around being a transfer switch panel, and it was installed by a professional. This is not the same as "backfeeding", as far as I know.
The PB30 inlet is what the same electrician installed on the outside of my house. It is connected to the generator transfer switch in the new panel.
I explained what I was doing with the cord to my electrician, and he told me it made sense. When I explained "white to bright, green to ground" I was just using colloquial terms. I know how to wire up a plug, and I know how the inlet works with the ground, neutral and two hot (X and Y).
As I said, I'm not trying to run any 220V appliances with my generator. I have those breakers turned off while I am on generator power. So all I want to do is make the 120V that the generator is putting out be available to all the breakers in the panel. As far as I'm aware, there is no safety issue with this, since all I am doing is supplying power to both sides of the same panel. There is no danger to the power company, and I don't see why it would be causing any fires, since the 10 gauge line I am using is rated to 30 amps, same for the plugs, they are all overspec for what that little generator will be putting out. Even if I'm using the Companion, with the two generators hooked together, with the 30 amp outlet, even then I am operating within the spec of what has been installed.
I'm not sure if there has been some kind of misunderstanding about what I'm doing, or if all of this still somehow constitutes "backfeeding" (I thought that was the practice of simply putting power back into the house through one of the regular outlets e.g. the dryer, but that's not what I'm doing at all - like I said, it's all being done through a new panel which has a dedicated transfer switch setup integral to the design of the thing, and installed by a professional electrician).
I know that bridging the XY terminals in the L14-30 connector isn't how that was designed to be, it was designed to have four wires, but all I'm doing is feeding the same 120V to both sides of the panel. There is no other interaction between the two sides, the utility power is completely isolated via the transfer switch, so I don't see what the problem is here. I have read about people doing this very same thing, in fact they even sell a connector which does the same as what I'm doing, e.g.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DVE92WE/
I got this, along with a couple of other components to do what I needed in order to connect all of this together:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TO4WCS/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00635OU84/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00F17Q8BM/
In the end, though, I decided to also try making my own custom cord, once I understood just what was happening in order to get from 3 wire to the 4 wire L14-30, it seemed like it would be a cleaner setup to just have the cord and connectors, without all the intermediary adapters.
I really think I did my homework on this, I paid a professional to install the transfer switch and give me a bona fide inlet to connect my generator to. My only task was to get the power to both sides of the panel, and I believe I did this in a way that makes sense and doesn't introduce any particular safety hazards to the situation. So I'm not sure why I'm getting flack for this, but if I'm making some huge mistake then please feel free to educate me.
This is one made by an Australian company.
https://www.macgear.com.au/products/satechi-usb-3-0-headphone-stand
or
https://www.macfixit.com.au/bluelounge-posto-universal-headphone-stand-black/
I would also suggest that it may be easier just to buy an adapter if you want more options.
https://www.amazon.com/OREI-Australia-China-Adapter-Plug/dp/B008Y8PSWA
Hope this helps.
41, A flashlight. Preferably, a head mount one will be included, as well as small handheld, and normal sized. I prefer LED ones :D
■ EDIT ■
Cleaned up the listings :D
■ EDIT ■
NOT NECESSARY, but I have it... - I also have, available, a 1U Xeon X3210 server with 8GB of RAM and 2 160GB SATA drives in RAID1 as a "temporary" server if the client has a server go down and needs something up ASAP. I have them sign off that I am NOT responsible for any inadequacies in performance or functionality, it is MY equipment, I will support it 8AM to 9PM for 2 weeks, and at the end of those two weeks, I am taking it back. It is their responsibility to procure a replacement for their down server, and they are responsible for the PHYSICAL well being of my server.
S/A
I have a Fisher and Paykel Icon CPAP machine. It has a clock/alarm built in. Fantastic for travel.
Edit: also if you travel with CPAP a 3 way plug takes up no space at all and will fit anywhere unlike a power strip.
(Almost) everything is more expensive in Australia. Food, housing, and clothing will cost more. If you need anything semi-substantial for your trip, such as new shoes, buy them in the US and bring them along. Depending on where you go, Australian winters may be colder and wetter than you realize, so plan accordingly.
If you're bringing any electronics along, double-check that they can be used with 220/240V outlets. This information will usually be somewhere on the item or on its AC adapter. Check your chargers, too! And don't forget to buy some three-prong adapters ahead of time. (Note that adapters do not make 110V-only items safe to use in Australia. Leave your 110V-only items at home.)
Before you get on the plane, you should definitely find a place to stay your first several nights in Australia. At the airport, they'll expect you to provide your intended address, such as a hotel. Also, you'll be jetlagged for about two weeks; don't expect to be able to look for work or proper housing during this time.
Make sure you have a copy of your visa acceptance letter containing your visa information (even if it's an e-visa and they claim the number is now connected to your passport) and bring it with you to the airport. I did this, and it helped me get through the lines faster, and the folks at the airport thanked me for it.
It's also wise to put a sheet of paper with your identifying information—your name, passport number, flight numbers, phone numbers, Australian address, and American address—inside each of your suitcases. And bring another copy of this information with you, so you'll have it on hand when they ask for your Australian address.
Have cash (ideally a couple hundred dollars or more) on hand at the airport, in both USD and AUD. It might be a few days before you can get hold of any AUD in Australia, and you don't want to be effectively destitute in the meantime. A credit card that can be used overseas is good, too, though I don't recommend making regular use of it due to fees.
Make sure you understand LAX's layout before you get there. Depending on your flights and how groggy you're feeling, it can be very confusing and may require bus rides. Don't buy plane tickets that only give you a short time to make your connecting flight at LAX; give yourself at least a couple hours.
Save all your plane ticket stubs, etc. This is in case you need to prove anything. When I came over, I got a jury summons and I had to send the judge pictures of my plane tickets to prove I wasn't just trying to dodge jury duty (an arrestable offense where I'm from).
Obviously, you'll want to get a bank account when you arrive. Getting your money from the US to Australia can be tricky. Definitely talk to the people at your American bank and get their advice before you go. In my case, I added my mother to my American bank account. Then when I arrived and opened a new bank account, I asked her to transfer my money to my Australian bank. You might be able to use a debit card instead, but you'll have to work this out with your bank ahead of time.
When you arrive, you'll want to apply for a Tax File Number. You'll need a mailing address, such as a P.O. Box, to receive this. You can start working before you get it, but you'll definitely want to get it soon or you'll be placed in the highest tax bracket.
What do you mean by "regular lamp". Is it an incandescent?
You should get CFLs with reflectors for that plant. I show how to make an efficient CFL reflector here. As a safety tip, use some electrical tape so there's no chance of the foil coming in contact with any electrical parts. I've seen enough receptacles wired up wrong in residential areas that people really should use some electrical tape with foil reflectors.
Scotch Super 33+ is a far superior electrical tape, particularly at higher temperatures, than generic electrical tape. Any electrician would tell you this.
edit: speaking of safety, a GFCI adapter is also a real good idea with foil reflectors and grow ops in general.
I guess for the right person this might be useful? Maybe? Isn't an extension cord way more common than that type of cord end?
As far as actual electrical issues go, the box needs to have a ground wire attached, there should be a fuse or something to ensure you're not overloading the cord that goes in the bottom, and the box isn't meant to be cut into like that.
Why not just buy this.
I fabricated some of these and they're the most amazing things:
These adapters have gotten me out of some of the most insane situations. "Hey so I have a laptop but the plug doesn't work" "do you care about the LCD?" "not really" FANTASTIC! here's a cable to fix your problem.
Here you go.
So, you can actually buy 5-15p to L5-30R adapters. You're right about power consumption though - you'll be above the recommended 1500W maximum on a 15A circuit with the additional load of the UPS's battery charger (usually on the order of a few hundred watts). I run my 2.5kVa UPS on a standard 15A circuit, but the load is only 500-700W.
Is the dryer plug 4 wires, with a neutral? If that's the case you can adapt it to a 120V load without any rewiring. You'll probably need a 14-30 to L14-30 adapter so you can plug one of these in, or find them manufactured as one adapter.
Those are made-to-order by "some guy", so a bit of further research may be desired if you want an ETL or UL listed version. The quality looks decent but you could of course make them yourself; the parts are available at any supply house or even at a big box home improvement store.
You can also have an electrician change out the breaker and outlet on the dryer plug, which would be pretty quick and easy. Call your landlord, usually they're amenable to that kind of modification as long as you can undo it when you move out. Alternatively you could offer to have an outlet installed, which wouldn't have to be undone but would cost more.
As a fellow traveler, let me just say that this thing is awesome. It's somewhat unique in that it has a ground plug, which most universal adaptors don't.
It seems like you are more inclined to cheap and clever than spending a bunch of money to do things the "right" way. So I have just the thing for you.
Irrigation solenoid valves are cheap and simple. They open when you apply 24 volts AC and close when you take it away. Couple them with a 24 VAC wall wart and a smart outlet/timer outlet and you have yourself a smart irrigation zone. Note that the irrigation valves are pipe thread, so you'd need adapters if you are going to hook them to garden hoses.
Bonus points if you get something like the Sonoff 4ch Pro that has 4 independent switches that work with essentially any voltage AC or DC up to 10a each channel, then you can control all 4 zones with one device and one transformer.
I always prefer to have cables on the shortest run possible, so to avoid that plug making a loop from the wall to the computer, I got one of these rotating plugs. Just a personal preference.
Looks amazing overall though
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001QG8LWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_wChvzb3G6DVTM
Really? Thats what you went with?
In any case Mrs. Edwina Graves, here you go:
http://www.amazon.com/VCT-VP-Universal-Australia-ArgentinaTravel/dp/B00374I2T2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407006698&sr=8-1&keywords=chinese+power+adaptor
http://www.travelchinaguide.com/essential/electricity.htm
I can't answer your question definitively, but I can offer an alternative that worked well for me.
My motto when it comes to this stuff is to keep it simple, especially when it comes to electricity.
If she can get a regular extension cord, then plug in one of these, which you could then plug the E27 x2 adapter into.
Hope this helps :)
Look at each of the electronic devices you're going to bring. Look at their power bricks, or near their outlet prongs. If you see something like 110V~220V, you're not taking chances, these devices are designed for multiple voltages. The only things that really need a a set voltage are heating coils, AC motors etc (think hairdryers).
As long as everything has 110~220V on it, just buy something like this or similar. You can find individual country adapters for a dollar or two at dollar stores, but I have a model similar to above. I don't need to carry around multiple adapters for a long trip, and the two USB ports are a bonus.
Ah, this type of thing looks familiar. VGA + PS/2 KVM switches spread round with tons of power strips and adapters, plus ethernet cables everywhere, used for multiple computers, probably repair.
Use those power bars, remove all of the other strips and just use Universal power cords with adapters like these, this, and that on the ends for various purposes. It basically becomes your own customizable, variable power squid
Might take velcro and bundle some of those together if necessary too.
We figured that out recently for our shop for similar usage and it have been a lifesaving revelation.
And if you need some special type of adapters, here's the listings from Wikipedia common cord ends.
Extension cord may work? *
Heaters certainly make it easier to sell to roommates
And start with what you are spending per year on paper. Probably pay for itself before the warranty expires.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GSPTUZG/
There are four potential problems.
Then don't do it.
Buy a rotating adapter instead. Something like this.
360 Electrical 36030-2CA6ES-R1 4-Outlet Rotating Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001QG8LWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kguKDb22TR237
The outlet you have is probably called NEMA 10-30R. The problem is it has no grounding. Adapters like this one are available, but are unsafe. Mining rigs and PDUs tend to emit high leakage current. That's why your hand starts buzzing when you touch a rack full of mining rigs that's improperly grounded. I would just pay $100-200 to get the receptacle replaced with a proper L6-30R one.
> I was curious about whether I can just use my electronic appliances using converters
If you want to run your 110V devices here you will need a Step Down Transformer like this one. That's the cheapest one, $120 for 120 Watts. They do have larger ones, up to 1000 Watts. You need to check out how much power your appliance will use, and buy one with at least that amount.
Of course, if your device can handle 230V then you would just need to buy an adapter like this one
It's easily adapted to a normal household style outlet, but won't charge the car any faster than the OUC can charge the car. This is the adapter needed. https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-14103-TT-30P-Plug-Adapter/dp/B00268WS72
Be sure to use a GFCI!
I bought this off Amazon for my Emerson Sensi:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L4DN5R2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
​
Works great and super easy to install.
Not just grounding probe for a stray voltage, but a GFCI outlet or an adapter. It will interrupt current if triggered.
All alarm switches are unpowered, they are simple open/close contacts. That's why the motion detectors have an extra pair that carries power to them (12v). I actually just put those pairs on my screw terminal block too, and then I literally just use something like this.
and run two wires from the output terminals of the connector that comes with that to the screw terminals. If I wanted to get really fancy, I could get a 12v battery charger circuit involved too, but it wouldn't power the Pi without a lot more work getting the 12v down to 5v somehow and all that, and I didn't want to deal with that yet.
You can't use a regular RV adapter, it's not wired correctly.
This guide covers making a working adapter from TT-30 to the included 14-50 plug: http://cosmacelf.net/Home%20Made%20Adapters.pdf
This video describes how to re-wire a"barrel style" RV adapter so it can charge the Tesla: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uUI_JcS2nJ0
Note that neither of those adapters conform to the NEC (National Electrical Code), so if there's a fire your insurance won't cover it. You'll also have to make sure the current is set back (GPS based current settings should cover this). The fastest completely compliant solution that doesn't involve running a thicker wire would be to use a 5-20 converter or outlet and charge at 16 amps instead of 24.
https://shop.teslamotors.com/products/nema-5-20
https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-Male-Female-Connector-Adapter/dp/B00268WS72
Here's a couple of adapters you can use:
One from Amazon
and another from an RV Store. I've never dealt with these kind of cords before but then I've never worked on RV trailers. There's an IMPORTANT common sense thing here to keep in mind. Both of these adapters are made to plug your 30 amp cord into a 15 amp receptacle. That means that you'll never be able to get more than 15 amps from the outlet. It will be safe but if you try to use too much electricity in your RV, you'll pop the breaker that feeds the outlet you're plugging into. And that can happen over and over again when you're watching a DVD, the electric refrigerator (vs. propane) comes on and the 13 year old daughter is blow drying her hair in a hurry so she can go out with that boy she met from 3 trailers down and get away from the 'rents for a while, ermahgerd. And if its raining outside and you're flipping that breaker back on, that could be VERY dangerous.
Oh, one more thing, DO NOT USE AN EXTENSION CORD. Just park closer to the damn outlet. ;)
Something like this should get you there, if they don't allow surge protectors on board. I'd see if you can find out if their plugs are three prong or two though.
IIRC, there's a newer Juul-type of device that allows for filling the pods with your own juice but I'll be buggared if I can remember the name! But something like that would be nice when strolling the Lido Deck! Enjoy the vacation!
The best I can think of is something like this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076DXWPHS
with one of these
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VL4CFC
I got one of these GFCI power cords to prevent that from happening with mine.
You should just use a 24VDC Wall wart instead of this switching power supply. Here is one:
https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Adapter-5-5x2-5mm-UL-Listed-3206-24V/dp/B002LMQ6G2/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519701692&sr=1-3&keywords=24vdc+power+supply
Just cut the wires and determine which is ground and + with a multimeter. Use this as the input to the L298N board. Then you can power your Arduino with the common ground and +5V terminal. This might work a little bit better than using the switching power supply that you have noted above
wish.com has grow tents for $35.lights are easy.... walmart sells a base for light bulbs to plug in standard outlet...get surge protectors from dollar tree and plug 2 or 3 bulbs on the strip. bam your good on the cheap.
walmart has em too but i cant find link...
https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Ivory-Socket-Outlet-Adapter/dp/B000VL4CFC
Oh. Thanks a lot. The general consensus I found settled on this adapter.
Just grab one of these and a standard to candelabra converter and you're back in business. Total cost may be like 5-8 bucks.
> Any tips re: where I can find these two different thickness locks you are referring to?
I don't think locks come in specific sizes. Here's the two I had: http://i.imgur.com/FyD1aQ0l.jpg
> I saw you're tripod charging thing, brilliant idea. Where can I find one of those?
http://www.amazon.com/Outlet-Wall-Adapter-Shaped-Prong/dp/B0081A4GEC
> Packing cubes: yours looked great, where can I find those?
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=packing+cubes
> I will reach out with more questions as they come.
12v, my bad. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LXME815/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1488052144&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=12v+power+supply&dpPl=1&dpID=41OhLWKghQL&ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002LMQ6G2/ref=mp_s_a_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1486353579&sr=8-10&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=24+volt+power+supply Would this work with something like this https://www.adafruit.com/products/368?gclid=CJySv_bL-tECFdgIgQodgTgAeg to run wires to the relay and drivers?
I don't understand how to do that. But here is my motor: http://www.zhengkemotor.com/product/product59.html
I'll be running it at 24V and it is the 70 rpm model. EDIT: I found the specs for this motor on line (probably would have been good to understand this before taking a stab in the dark).
At 24V the 70 rpm (no load) model uses ≤ 100MA. Under "Rated Load" it has a speed of 80 RPM (how is that higher?) with Current of ≤.6A and Torque of 10 kg/cm. Stall Torque is 15 kg/cm with a Stall Current of 1.4A. The gear reducer ratio is 1:50.
Amazon motor description said the "rated voltage" is 24. So for the power supply I got this one. It can accept 100-240VAC and uses 1.5A . It outputs 24V at 2.5A. (That is higher than the Stall Current. Is that a problem?)
I went back to check the spec on the speed controller that I have and while it LOOKS just like those DC PWM motor controllers, the one that I bought was described as an AC Voltage Regulator accepting inputs of 110-220V and outputting AC10v to whatever the input voltage is. Maximum wattage is 4000W. So I believe I will use this to dial down my blower motor on my chaff collector/air flow controller and order the proper DC motor controller today. Does that give you enough info to do the math? (TIA)
I use Epicka Rated one of the best all around with quick charge, and USB - C by wirecutter. I use it for nearly everything now since it has so many ports, and its pretty compact for what it does.
> If I go through and buy the 710 14 on the US site there shouldn't be any difference other than the adapter?
Not really.
But be aware that Lenovo doesn't offer an international warranty. Even if the Lenovo Yoga 710 14 is available in Australia, they might not service a US unit in Australia if something fails.
> I was looking at the adapters they sell on the AUS store but wasn't sure which one I would buy IF I bought the 710 on the US site.
Couldn't you just buy one of these?
https://www.amazon.com/OREI-Australia-China-Adapter-Plug/dp/B008Y8PSWA
> I like the Dell a lot. Comparing to the 710 do you think it's better and worth the money?
It's not better. It's more or less the same. Specs and build quality is comparable. It's just that you have something that is bought local, thus also something with a local warranty.
UPS Server Y Splitter C14 to 2 x C13 Power Extension Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G1JMFZQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K0iACbJVTRBDS
SF Cable, 3 prong Plug Adapter, USA NEMA 5-15R to IEC 60320-C14 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004OC579E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_t1iACbDXVX13S
You will then need a power supply that provides the correct current capacity. If you use the whole 15m of ribbon, that is 12A for that ribbon.
Also, that's a really long run for LED ribbon. You will see voltage drop, especially in this cheap stuff. You can combat this by running power to both ends of the ribbon. You could also cut it into several smaller strips, but you will need a controller for each section.
Unless you're flying business, it'll be a little tricky finding a mains to plug in. Also, if you absolutely need to use your laptop during your flight (it won't be comfortable, again, unless you're in business), try getting one of those world traveler adapters . something like this
Like this kind of sunken outlet in Hungary?
[Epicka Universal Travel Adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/EPICKA-Universal-Travel-Adapter-Power/dp/B078S3M2NX)
How does it compare to this though? https://www.amazon.com/EPICKA-Universal-Travel-Adapter-Power/dp/B078S3M2NX/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Epicka+Universal+Travel+Adapter&qid=1565279657&s=hi&sr=1-4
Something like this should work for the power. Not sure if it will run on just power without seeing schematics.
https://www.amazon.com/LEDwholesalers-Adapter-5-5x2-5mm-UL-Listed-3206-24V/dp/B002LMQ6G2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1509794836&sr=8-4&keywords=24v+power+supply&dpID=51ZnVe2x07L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Bulky and bendy? You can get a simple, tiny block for a little over $5.
I got this: European Travel Plug Adapter,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FJWLLDB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
It means it has 30 amp service. What the other poster said below is WRONG. You can hook up a heavy duty extension cord with an adapter to a 30 amp RV connection and plug your stuff in without a problem.
http://www.amazon.com/Conntek-Male-Female-Connector-Adapter/dp/B00268WS72/
The 30 amp RV connections are all 120V. 30 amps just means you can draw more current than a typical 15 amp circuit.
Technically using this and this would work, but you should just have an electrician change the dryer breaker to a two-pole 15 amp and change the outlet to a 6-15.
That PDU should work fine, you will still have to change the plug out though.... should be able to get one from home depot or lowes. If you cant find the correct end to install on the pdu then you will have to change the plug/box completely out and install a new box/twist lock plug to go with the original twist lock that comes on the pdu.
Parkworld 885439 Adapter Cord NEMA 10-30P Male to L6-30R Female, 30A, 250V, 1.5' https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792QVNB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cO9SBbYW6MTYB
That should work for you.
Cool I imagine it's a pretty easy installation? Or do you recommend I get an adapter like this http://www.amazon.com/NEMA-L14-30P-6-15-Plug-Adapter/dp/B004XWAKUQ?
European Travel Plug Adapter, TESSAN International Power Plug with 2 USB, Outlet Adaptor for US to Most of Europe EU Spain Iceland Italy (Type C) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FJWLLDB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_P9mBDb1RN0NPW
Dk if link will work but i use this one.. pretty nice. Also defends on what your charging.. they use different types of power here. Like don’t uses a hair dryer or straightener with one of these types without a converter.
Has never let me down
https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-30129-15A-Plug-Adapter/dp/B00DVE8SCE/ref=pd_cp_86_3/135-2489551-2752008
Here is the adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-30129-15A-Plug-Adapter/dp/B00DVE8SCE
I have a Ranar DX-200 that I made a converter for to plug it in to a regular 15A receptacle. When we had our plugs put in the basement they were put on a 15A fuse but the lines were made to be able to handle 20A, this way if it pulls too much the fuse on the panel will pop and the lines won't catch the house on fire. I've never popped the circuit when only running the dryer and it's product listing says the same thing. That being said, don't take any of my advice as fact.
one of these would answer your question:
Amazon1 Amazon2
Conntek 14101 15A to TT-30R RV Plug Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TO4WCS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2K3UCbYJSYAZY
Fortunately, your builder did you a service and did it right.
You do not want to down rate your outlet. You want to use an adapter. Don’t change a thing.
It is probably an l14-30 plug so this should work:
https://www.amazon.com/NEMA-L14-30P-6-15-Plug-Adapter/dp/B004XWAKUQ
Take a picture of the receptical and upload it and I can tell you exactly what you need.
Edit: Oh look. Down votes for trying to help.
You didn't hear this from me, but you can. If you have the 10-30 I prefer that because it has a lower amperage rating, but lacks a neutral. With a GFI pigtail at 15A you can cut off the male end and expose the black, white, green wires underneath. On your nema 10-30 male plug you land the white on the center blade, the black on one of the side blades and leave the other side blade alone. Safe off the ground.
This is not safe because 30A is available and your device is rated at 15A. If there was anything but a direct short this GFI and anything plugged into it will melt and probably catch fire.
Let's make it a little safer. Connect the white like I said, but put an inline fuse at 15A on the side blade instead of landing the hot directly. Connect the other side of the fuse holder to the black wire from the cord. Put in a 15A fuse. There should be enough room in the big plug housing for it to fit. If not have the fuse itself stick out next to the cord.
It technically still isn't 100%. While the low voltage fuse can handle 15A. If it blows it may not actually break the arc. The thing is it has a chance better than not using it and will hopefully save the gfci part of the cord on an overload.
So what are we going to do to make it safer? This is for one and only one appliance, your bike charger.
To make it safer use this fmn fuse holder with this fuse 15A and even 20A is acceptable here, the package I linked has one of each. The fuse holder will need to be crimped to the bare wire and electrical taped over the crimped ends. This will not fit in the plug housing but otherwise should be used instead of the low voltage holder.
If you have the nena 10-50 connect the white to the center flat blade, the green to the opposite bent peg, and the black to one of the side blades, ignoring the other one. Insert the fuse holders in between the gfi and the nema 10-50 plug like I described above.
All this assumes the building super left the power on those circuits. I'd test them first before you get to deep in this project.