> i basically just need a light and thats it? if i want to grow autoflower only

oh boi... alright here we go.

youll need duct fans for both ventilation and heat dissipation, especially if you go with HPS/MH lights 600/1000watts will require reflectors with ducting so you can connect to it. This will need to exhaust out of your tent. Then you will need a intake fan coming preferably from outside. Youll most likely also need a Carbon filter attached in series to your exhaust fan. Your light will have a ballast as well, which creates a good amount of heat so plan for that to be located outside your tent. Youll also need smaller fans in the corners so you can keep a good air circulation going (hurricane fans are great). Also consider using T5 lights when starting your seeds off as your higher wattage lights are not good for seedlings. Also get a few supplies like gorilla tape and duct clamps and anything else you might need to secure everything together.

When it comes to growing, even if you are only doing autos youll need smart pots, fertilizer, promix HP, perlite plus both vegging and flowering nutrients. Have access to PH up and down solution, and also get a Ph Pen + PPM meter (TDS).

Ive only linked amazon, there are probably other local options for you.

a synthetic "spray" you spray on your plants while they still grow. It smells like good haze, but is mostly made of plastics and sugar.

here's a translated article:

https://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&sl=auto&tl=en&u=https%3A%2F%2Fhanfverband.de%2Finhalte%2Fstreckmittel-in-marihuana-wie-man-sie-erkennt-und-welche-risiken-von-ihnen-ausgehen

​

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Planet-Nutrients-Specialized-Carbohydrates/dp/B0077KT47G

Find yourself a large enough tub/barrel/container to hold 4 or 5 of the buckets of soil. Add some of this and some of this and mix well. Add in some Worm Castings and mix well. Distribute the soil back into your 5 gallon buckets and plant your seeds/seedlings. Azos and Mykos "rejuvenate" soil and help to invigorate root development. The worm castings are rich in nutrients and are possibly the best natural fertilizer there is.

You may also want to find some organic liquid nutrients to help your plants grow/flower. There are many excellent choices for nutrients out there that fit every need and budget.

Good Luck!

Ooh! Ooh! This sounds fun. I put some time into this when I should have been working, so I hope it helps.

1) Pruners - $20.49

This will be your most used tool. Eventually, you can upgrade into Felcos or Bahcos, but right now just get these Coronas. They're honestly a better size for hobby gardeners (fit right in your pocket), and the're very high quality for the price.

2) Your First Gardening Book - $17.06

Gardening Without Work by Ruth Stout. It's simple and gives you a general plan that really does work very well. It's a must for beginning gardeners, imho. You can find just about any other information you need on the internet (for now). Very little maintenance required, including fertilizing, weeding, applying pesticides, etc. (In a nutshell, the main step involves putting down an 8" layer of mulch...).

If you want to go with a more traditional raised bed setup, you should buy Mel Bartholomew's Square Foot Gardening. It's a fantastic back yard gardening book, as well, but the methods are kind of pricey and less sustainable. Still, it's a great system for growing a lot of food in limited space and it was the first book I used.

3) Indestructible Garden Trowel - $15.99

This will be your second most used tool. This particular model is about as indestructible as it gets short of this bad boy. You'll use it for digging holes for transplanting, mostly. Don't buy a cheap one or it will bend or break or both.

4) Fertilizer - $7.83 + $11.06 = $24.26

I chose cottonseed meal because that's what Ruth Stout recommends using (the rest of the nutrients in her system come from the giant mounds of mulch). Apply as she indicates.

I also added some Fish Emulsion Liquid Fertilizer because I love the stuff. It's a great way to add some extra nitrogen (and just a little P & K) mid season to your veggies or even to your compost pile when it gets carbon heavy. The stuff I have right now stinks, but the plants love it and it's easy to apply if you have a watering can.

Make sure you tailor your fertilizer to whatever system you're using, though. Don't fertilize like Ruth if you're not using her mulch based system. If you're using Square Foot Gardening, you won't be fertilizing at all, but you will be using lots of peat, vermiculite, and (different kinds of) compost. Etc, etc, etc.

5) Work Gloves - $10.97

These are specifically for women, but there's a button to switch to men's if that's you. You won't wear them all the time, but you'll be happy you have them when you need them. Notice that this comes with 6 pairs of gloves. I misplace gloves all the time, so having several is handy (hehe).

__

Total: $88.77

__

Notes:

• Save the rest for now. You're inevitably going to become enamored with something like earthworm casings, azomite, or a nozzle for your gardening hose down the line. Your future self will thank you for having some extra cash to buy it with, and this is plenty to get you started on your way to being a badass backyard gardener.
  
  
• The two above methods claim to be mostly pest free. In my experience, nothing is pest free, and you just need to grow enough quantity to weather the storm when it does randomly come. I would just concentrate on growing healthy plants first and foremost and then let the chips fall where they may. You might turn to pesticides later, and that's fine, but hold off on buying any until you know what is nibbling on your plants. Most pesticides are specific to the pest.
  
  
• Notice that I don't include any seeds. Your first year of gardening, I'd honestly recommend just buying live plants from your local nursery (and sticking to plants bred to survive in your region). Growing from seed can be hard, and your entire crop of seedlings dying is a humbling experience, I can assure you.
  
  The other reason there are no seeds on my list is because I don't recommend buying them on Amazon. I've had bad experiences every time I've tried it. If you need seeds, go with a good seed dealer, like Johnny's Selected Seeds, Burpee, etc, or find a good nursery in your area.
  
  
• If you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask.
  
  _____
  
  TL;DR: Pruners, a book to get you started, a durable trowel, fertilizer that is specific to your growing plan, and some gloves. Enjoy!

1. 2 oz is possible, for sure. You will probably only get 1/2 that your first try though because you will most likely fuck something up on your first grow.
   
   
2. Use this fertilizer instead. You can use it throughout the whole grow and it will be way better than tomato feed. Use this light instead, if you can afford it. You will also need a pH control kit or at the very least some pH strips and vinegar to use to lower the pH.
   
   
3. I've had some bare bones grows with the tools listed in #2. They went just fine, but I have since upgraded my lights and switched to hydro and I like it a lot more. My bare bones grows yielded probably 1/2oz per plant grown in a 2 liter (much less soil than was in that guide). Now in hydro 2 liters with better lights I get about 1.5oz per plant.
   
   
4. Yes ona gel works, but make sure you put it outside your grow closet because if it is too close to your plant it will make it taste funny/harsh. Same goes for using febreeze or any other odor killer, keep it away from your plant.

they sell nitrogen fixing bacteria in jugs at any gardening store.

http://www.amazon.com/Xtreme-Gardening-RT1350-Nitrogen-Microbes/dp/B004KPKB0A

or for those that prefer diversity:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JQC188Q

That stuff needs soil bacteria to decompose it into usable fertilizer and is designed to supplement soil grows. If you need organic, General Hydroponics has a line of nutrients that will work. If you need dry powder and organic, I have no idea.

If you don't need organic, Masterblend's 3-part formula is your best bet as it's super cheap and effective. If you want a 1-part, Maxigrow is good.

This stuff is a must for citrus trees! Use it as a foliar spray and pair it with some organic slow-release citrus fertilizer (any reputable brand will do) in the soil and you’ll be smooth sailing 👌🏼
The foliar spray has micronutrients they need such as manganese, zinc and iron which most fertilizers don’t have included. My in-ground trees have never been the same after I got this spray so I swear by it now.
Works well for Avocado and Mango trees too! It’s a little cheaper at Home Depot if you have one nearby.

We have a gardening bed on the side of our house and I'd like to plant herbs, veggies, fruits, or spices there. But the dirt seems to be very compacted and hard. I have much experience with growing cannabis plants in containers no-till style so I have a broad understanding of the soil food web, I've just never planted in-ground nor have I used compacted soil before.

Do I simply till the crap out of the whole bed to kinda loosen everything up and "un-compact" the entire bed? And then i simply dump my soil on top of that hard clay-like dirt and plant the plants in?

My soil would likely consist of one part homemade earthworm castings, one part aeration component like pumice or lava rock, and one part peat moss. I would be using EWC from my worm bins and would be introducing worms and worm eggs into the beds.

I was thinking of also planting a cover crop seed mix that has a lot of variety as living mulch and as green manure mulch. I also have a bale of straw I could use as mulch. I would keep the topsoil damp for the microbes and earthworms to be happy.

Over time, would the clay dirt underneath the soil become composted and eventually fertile as the worms and other soil life expand into the dirt more?

Does my plan seem like a solid plan to turn the dirt bed into fertile living soil?

27" (2.25') x 30" (2.5) = 5.625 sqft. So, even a smaller space that I thought. I'd turn off the side lights, and dim the 500w QB to about half. Depending on your driver, that may be all the way dimmed. A Kill-A-Watt meter, or a multimeter, will be helpful here. See how the plants react in 8 hours of less light. If they are light stressed, they'll noticeably perk up in that space of time. Your #1 goal should be getting the plants happy with the environment. Nutrients come next.

I don't know Mega Crop first hand. Is it this product? If so, it looks like great ratios, and has Cal and Mg built in. Good stuff, at first glance.

The CalMg part of this equation is important for you. LEDs make plants Mg hungry, for whatever reason. If you don't have a Mg source in your feed, you will have issues pretty soon.

FF's Cha Ching is meant to be added as a flowering booster. About week 3 of flower, you'd start to taper the N off in three-part FF Trio feed. And add something like Cha Ching. For extra boosts to P and K. Is that the right program? Unsure. I ran FF for a couple of years, including all their boosters--there are different ones for phases of flower, but all are similar. Worked well.

I run Jacks 3-2-1 currently. Which is a lot closer to your Mega Crop than to FF. I don't add any kind of P/K boosters. But I add products similar to Mammoth and Recharge. And I should be making teas. . .thanks for the reminder, I need to start a batch in the morning!

More to your questions/needs: If Mega Crop was good for you, and you don't like what you are seeing now, I'd go back to it. Same feed strength you used in veg. Once the plants look happy, you can add 1/8 tsp/gallon of ChaChing every other feed. Still happy after a week? Add more. Cha Ching isn't your nutrient program. It's an add on. Your N/P/K + Cal + Mg feed (Mega Crop) is your real nutrient base.

Jup. Und dieser Brix Scheiß ist auch legal zu kaufen.

GH Armor Si

Edit: Oh and I also used their MaxiGrow dry nutes but I use those for everything.

I was using armorsi to supplement the silica.

https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Armor-Gardening-32-Ounce/dp/B00E5K5NS0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483572672&sr=8-1&keywords=armorsi

There are different brands of silica supplements that you can take a look at. Armorsi causes your ph to go way up so be careful.

The grow stones my other plant is growing in came with my dwc bucket, I ordered a complete 5 gallon dwc kit and one came with hydroton like normal and the other came with growstones. You can buy growstones on amazon too but they're expensive.

Hi. As far as nutrients go, I am unsure of the PPM. I have great luck with this product and just follow the instructions.

http://www.amazon.com/Lettuce-Greens-Herbs-Hydroponic-Nutrients/dp/B00MSW5LQQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462802642&sr=8-1&keywords=hydroponic+lettuce+nutrients

I'm using 4ft, 8 bulb, T5 fluorescent lights. I keep them 16 inches from the channels.
http://www.amazon.com/Hydro-Crunch-FLUORESCENT-LIGHT-SYSTEM/dp/B0099989Y2/ref=pd_sim_86_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=41iL%2B2K9rEL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0WS9V2ESNRTMSGM2BG24

I keep the pH between 6.0 and 6.2, and the plants (holes in the top of the channels) are 8.5" apart.

I use Roots Organic soil. It's nice because you don't have to give nutes for the first 6wks and is a good base for super soil when you recycle it.This is what I use for for pH down.

I don't know why Reddit only uploaded one pic when I selected the whole album but okay. These are all the pics: https://imgur.com/a/JjIqywv

And this is what they looked like before I left: https://imgur.com/a/yzyR48O

They're growing in an Aerogarden right now. I had left a water pitcher to refill the reservoir with; it has 300ppm of nutrients (with some potassium added too) and a pH of 5.6. There's a humidifier in their enclosure, but I don't know if he was on top of filling it.

Okay... so here we go and please try not to take this as me being a jerk. I AM trying to help.

> 1. Which of EWC, Guano, bone & blood meal is required/optional?

1. Will I encounter any nutrient burn/deficiency with organics?<br />

2. For pests, how do I prevent/treat them organically? (predators? products? neem?)
   
3. How much can I expect to yield in these conditions
   
4. Is curing just a slower method of drying to improve potency?
   
5. Any other pointers/Tips/ Warnings for a new grower like me?
   
   
6. None of this is required. It is all optional.
   
7. What organics? Are you talking about soil? What do you mean here?
   
8. This was all covered in the www.growweedeasy.com website. And information lacking there can be easily sought out on the web. This leads me to think that you didn't "thoroughly read the growweedeasy easy site, as well the important threads in the microgrowery & autoflowers subs" as per your reply above.
   
9. Again, this is covered on that site. There are some rough calculations for this that takes your plant size/grow space and your light wattage and type and gives you a basic eyeball estimate of what you can expect. Something like ".5 grams for each watt" type of thing.
   
10. Once more... all those tips and warnings are on that website, and in various sidebar panels in the grow subs like you mentioned. And can be easily sought on the web.
    
    So, you can certainly find that information because you have "already visited those sites/subs and read the information". Or, you didn't read any of it... which seems more likely based on the questions you're asking.
    
    I'll try some:
    
    
11. Go with a premix soil to start with. No, not Miracle Grow. Get some Fox Farms soils... I am using their Ocean Forest soil (commonly referred to on these sites as FFoF/FFOF), or their Happy Frog soil. It has all those cool things already in the soil, like perilite, guana, worm castings, etc. It's pretty fucking sweet. Looks so much 'better' than standard big box potting soils.
    
12. I don't know what organics you mean. But I have not had any issues with the FFoF soil and some Alaska Fish Fertilizer I used during veg. I have used nothing else (yet) during flowering, because I transplanted right before flipping the lights, and the soil has everything it needs for a month or so (depending on frequency of watering). I plan to add in the "Morbloom" 0-10-10 also from Alaska in the next watering cycle and will use that for 4 weeks until I "flush".
    
13. There are too many pests for us to just say what info you need. I'll tell you this though: a plant's best defense is being healthy. So, the better you can make your grow environment for optimal plant life, the better your plant will be in fending off any pests. A few tips: standing water and high humidity will attract flying insects in any environment. So, keep your soil as dry as you can for as long as you can. Diatomaceous Earth on top of the soil will help keep that environment unhealthy for many flying insects like gnats and shit. Also, sometimes I will 'bottom feed' (watering into the runoff tray and allowing the soil/medium to soak up water) this will keep the top of the soil dry. As always, someone will be along to tell you why I am wrong in doing this... lol. Welcome to our subs!
    
14. We'll need to know a lot more information to determine what you COULD expect if everything goes fairly well during the 3-4 months of your plant's life. Honestly, it will take me longer to type out what info we need, and it will take you longer to type all the answers out than it would for you to find that on growweedeasy.com or google. Sorry to be blunt. Pun intended and also not intended. Schrodinger's Pun.
    
15. Yeah...
    
    So there are some helpful tips from me. As always, your mileage may vary, and that is usually based on the environment and level of care you give the plants.
    
    Here is the link to my 56 day veg grow diary.
    
    Here is the link to my 19.5 day flower diary.
    
    ProTip: click the heading link once the page loads to open the actual imgur link. The pictures are bigger and the text is easier to read.
    
    Please post a diary or blog so we can see what progress you have! And as always, hippy growing. I mean happy growing 8)...
    
    
    
    
    
    

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HVKKOEE/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1I0HX534SI4W3

Not a liquid, but I have used this:
http://www.amazon.com/Lettuce-Greens-Herbs-Hydroponic-Nutrients/dp/B00MSW5LQQ

It is very easy. You just mix each bag with water to make a concentrated liquid as soon as you receive it. Then you use it like any other liquid fertilizer.


Ive had Great Results and it is cheaper than any liquid fertilizer out there.

Get an EC meter and PH meter and just feed at 1.5 EC your plants will tell you if they are lacking something and you can address then. If you have a solid nute base and maybe some calmag you should have no problems

Base Nute https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-FloraNova-Bloom-Quart/dp/B000W7C87Y
Calmag https://www.amazon.com/Botanicare-Cal-Mag-Plus-Quart/dp/B004JKBMRW/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1481303031&sr=1-1&keywords=calmag

With the above base nute follow the lucas formula and you will have above average results with good genetics and paired with a hempy bucket you will kill it

I recommend this: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-01902-Citrus-Nutritional/dp/B00A51Y8ZM/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=chelated+iron+fertilizer&qid=1570479398&sr=8-6

How would you like me to get you a closer picture?

In that case, I think it's flowering, but don't know for sure - it's my first time.

Are there any changes in fertilization that I need to make?

I have these three fertilizers - https://www.amazon.com/Fox-Farm-Liquid-Nutrient-Formula/dp/B0155IDR4M/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1537060918&sr=8-7&keywords=fox+plant+fertilizer

I've been using the green one - should I switch to another one or just buy something else?

Okay, the light might be enough for a few seedlings if 32 watt is the actual true wattage but it's probably not enough Wattage/M^2 considering how many plants you have in there and it's definitely not enough light if you want to do the whole grow with it.

From the pictures it looks like you are doing some kind of diy kratky? Can you have a look at the roots? It could be root rot causing those symptoms. It's especially important that you keep the temperature low in the nutrient solution if you are doing kratky I believe, so yes dont warm it from underneath.

Are you letting the roots have some distance from the water? This is essential for kratky since you do not have airstones providing oxygen to the roots(assuming you are doing kratky).

When doing hydro its pretty much essential that you can read and control the ph. Pepper plants wants a ph of 5.5-6.5. My tapwater have a very high ph (around 8.0) which would cause a lot of nutrient deficiencies if I didn't monitor and adjust accordingly.
> WHY IS pH IMPORTANT?
When the pH is not at the proper level the plant will lose its ability to absorb some of the essential elements required for healthy growth. For all plants there is a particular pH level that will produce optimum results (see chart 1 below). This pH level will vary from plant to plant, but in general most plants prefer a slightly acid growing environment (between 5.5-6.0), although most plants can still survive in an environment with a pH of between 5.0 and 7.5.

http://www.simplyhydro.com/ph.htm

I would recommend you get a proper growlight, ph-meter and ph-down. With this you will come a long way and could produce fruits on your plants using only the growlight considering its winter in your country.

> it is scary how attached I have gotten to these little plants

I know the feeling :)

Also here is my Carolina reaper plant using the Mars Hydro 300 and an Oxypot 19 liters

Cheap good quality nutes

Fox Farm Liquid Nutrient Trio Soil Formula: Big Bloom, Grow Big, Tiger Bloom (Pack of 3 - 16 oz. bottles) 1 Pint Each + Twin Canaries Chart & Pipette https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0155IDR4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mOgnDbNN616XT

Upper 70s to mid 80s temps means your res temps are not ideal. The first thing you need to do is start using Hydroguard, or you will not make it to harvest without root rot and/or bad shit growing in your res. Ideally, you want rez temps around 65-68. That is the best range for maximum oxygenation and growth. The higher above that range the res temp gets, the less oxygen the solution can hold. Less oxygen and higher temps increases the likelihood of algae and other bad things growing in your res, and less oxygen means slower, less vigorous growth. This is why you see a lot of hydro growers using water chillers. Optimal air temps for growth is around 75-80, but that temp is not optimal for the res or the roots.

Lower than 65-68%, the solution can hold even more oxygen, but it can get too cool and slow growth.

Do not despair. Use Hydroguard in every hydro grow, even should you have the perfect water temps. Not only does it allow you to successfully grow in warmer res temps, it helps the plants uptake nutrients better no matter the temps, prevents root rot, and prevents bad stuff from growing on your roots. So that is how you help make the plant more heat resistant "below the lid" at the roots.

Now, here is how you can make the plants more heat resistant "above the lid". Use silica, such as [Armor Si](https://www.amazon.com/General-Hydroponics-Armor-Gardening-32-Ounce/dp/B00E5K5NS0 starting week 2 of veg). Silica helps a ton in warmer or cooler than optimal grow environments. It makes the entire "above the lid" part of the plant stronger, more heat/cold resistant, more pest resistant, and because of a stronger plant structure, it leads to bigger yields.

Sorry for the wall of text, but figured you wanted the info.

I use Schultz 10-15-10 for my indoor leaf plants. My plants include schefflera, BOP, jade, pachira, ivy, snake, coffee zz, peace lily. They are very happy with it. Just be sure to make the correct ratios.

https://www.amazon.com/Mieemclux-Reflector-Triple-Chips-Spectrum-Available/dp/B07SNP22XS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=led+grow+light&qid=1565576938&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Observation-Window-Growing/dp/B01DXYMQ9M/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=grow+tent&qid=1565576981&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE1NE9VWlZWRU5XRDEmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTA5Mzg4NjExVFFNUjlER1NVSTlDJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA3MjU0NTQzRFE0RVE3WjdOUjdBJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

https://www.amazon.com/Lilly-Miller-100099247-Quart-Fertilizer/dp/B000BX4QGK/ref=sr_1_3?crid=WQYMXKQ4RC54&keywords=alaska+fish+fertilizer&qid=1565577089&s=gateway&sprefix=alaska+fish+f%2Caps%2C235&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/PH-Meter-Automatic-Calibration-Accuracy/dp/B07NYZBYD3/ref=sr_1_11_sspa?keywords=ph+pen&qid=1565577113&s=gateway&sr=8-11-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEySTVLNEg3S0dWVE5FJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDg2MzQ2MkI3SDdRUEoySjFFRSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTY4Njk3Mkg0MERVWUxEVlg3WiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX210ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

https://www.amazon.com/Hydroponic-pH-Down-Control-Kit/dp/B00TYW6Q58/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=ph+up&qid=1565577139&s=gateway&sr=8-18

that will do what youre looking for. Make sure if you use that fertilizer that you ph your water after you use it because it will tank you PH down to about 4. If someone tells you you have to spend more than $400 to get started they are wrong. You do not need to spend that much. You can ... but you dont have to.

​

miricle gro performance organics is like twelve bucks a bag at lowes and is OMRI certified

You can give a small treatment of phosphorus rich fertilizer, or any balanced houseplant fertilizer for that matter and see if it solves the issue. Plants that have leaves starting to turn red like this might be low on phosphorus.

I'd recommend https://www.amazon.com/Schultz-Purpose-Liquid-Plant-10-15-10/dp/B018LSGTLG it's a really concentrated formula that'll last you years of use, and it's incredibly easy to use. You should be able to find it at local big box stores like walmart, home depot and others.

Those leaves indicate nutritional deficiency.

You should be fertilizing regularly with a citrus/tropical fruit fertilizer- probably three times a year.

Also, a nutritional spray like this one at least once a year-

https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Chelated-Citrus-Nutritional/dp/B00A51Y8ZM

Keep the area under the tree free of MULCH, grass and weeds. Its should have bare ground under it. The reason is pathogens can enter of the bark at the base of the tree if it is injured. Do not use a weedeater on it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727VTWH5/ref=twister_B071L15G5Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

All of them are generally the same, so just go for the most cost efficient for you. I went for the gallon Lazer It will last me a long time.

Are you feeding them? Go grab some hydroponic nutrients (like General Hydroponics Flora) and give them a feeding. Most Canadian garden centers are now carrying hydroponics supplies (with the legalization of weed soon), in the US you'll have to search out a hydroponic store, or buy from Amazon.

Also pick up some CalMag while you're at it

Timmy,
thanks for your interest. I am using General Hydroponics FloraGro, FloraBloom, FloraMicro Combo Fertilizer purchased on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077DCV9Z5/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am following the directions given by General Hydroponics for a 40 gal setup using their online generator. See image here: https://imgur.com/a/T5C6G

I did not record initial PH readings (big error on my part), but they are currently 7.6 which I presume is a bit high. I've got some PH Down on order, so i'll adjust and bring it down to around 6.0 which is good general number from what I've read.

Lastly, I have not changed out my nutes in the last 2 weeks, so this may play a factor. But I'm planning on doing this in the next few days.

What about this stuff https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004KPKB0A/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1527424662&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=mykos&dpPl=1&dpID=51nAfp-LB3L&ref=plSrch

https://amzn.com/B00MSW5LQQ

I use these for my basil because it's cheap. the yellow bag has N, Ca, and Fe while the white bag has everything else. if you have an N deficiency, a splash of the yellow stuff can help

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014QB8JUG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511985459&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mykos&dpPl=1&dpID=61NcJYV7LvL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003STB5N6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511985459&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=mykos&dpPl=1&dpID=51tKXjsxi5L&ref=plSrch

These are pretty fairly priced and go a long way. I see this all over a lot of forums and random videos which is why I looked into it. I'm new to growing (but I've put in hrs and hrs of reading about it) and this is supposed to be used in the soil unless you get water soluble then I think you can add to the water but it still takes a couple weeks for them to build up. Check it out tho.. This brand is also perfect for cannabis cultivation it doesn't have the ecto in it. Here's their website as a start point

https://www.xtreme-gardening.com/mykos

One gallon (128 fl oz) of Liquid Harvest Lazer Blue is $44 @ Amazon

You don't need more substrate, but root tabs would be beneficial. They're just little round things about the size of popcorn that you push down into the substrate you already have. You also need to start dosing with a complete liquid fertilizer. I've been having great success with these. And they will last you a LONG time. The Flourish that you're using is just micronutrients, so the plants are lacking the macro elements (especially nitrogen) that would be present in a cycled tank. Also, anubias doesn't like a shit ton of light. If it's still alive, you might wanna move it somewhere that is shaded either by some decor or something. And don't forget that you mustn't bury the rhizome of the anubias plant. It needs to stay above the sand, and just have the roots underground.

I have one wisteria, one amazon sword, and one willow hygro developing a few holes and such in their leaves.

I only have the one sword, but the the other hygro and wisteria plants are doing fine. The tank is cycled with 10ppm of nitrates last time I checked on Thursday and a pH of 8.

The tank is 10 gallons. I've been adding 1/2ml of Flourish Comprehensive every week, a little under 1ml of Excel everyday, and Seachem root tabs for the swords and crypts. Could it be macronutrient deficiency? I've been eyeing the dry mixes from NilocG but don't want to bite the bullet and waste the Comprehensive bottle:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013RW4MNS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494801914&sr=8-3&keywords=NilocG+Aquatics
I'm currently using the light below in a simple fixture sitting on top of the glass cover.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00106R8CQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Would I need something stronger for the willow hygro, amazon sword, wisteria, floating water sprite, floating pennywort, crypts, and moneywort?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0155IDR4M/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1519910512&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=foxfarm&dpPl=1&dpID=61pJFOEg3mL&ref=plSrch

didn't mean crazy in a bad way. but i keep trimming it back everyday because my main plants are not tall enough yet, and i could leave the trim in the pot but i'm dealing with fungus gnats. don't want decaying material for them to eat. i'm putting it in my worm bin instead so it will still get used at some point. i would actually prefer some cilantro or something in there since i am trimming it back daily. i just don't want something that will take over or compete too much, and it needs to have a shallow root system.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JQC188Q/

For larger plants in a non DWC system. Take this to heart as many growers fail to learn this; nutrients do not grow plants. Plants use sugar created by photosynthesis to power their metabolic processes. They also need very little nutrients to "survive" and anything extra will just bring them closer to their maximum potential. Start low, work up. I start with just rooting formula until they have a nice couple of roots and leaves then add my nute mixture (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0727VTWH5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) and bring it to around 100. If they ever show any signs of stress I immediately drop way down. I go up about 150-200 PPM a week.

Week 0-1: 10-50

Week 1: 50-100

Week 2: 300-400

Week 3: 600-700

Week 4: On your own.

I'm using some Dyna-Gro DYFOL008 Foliage Pro to start, then I'm going to switch to Fox Farm Tiger Bloom.

Unfortunately I don't have enough experience with this one to know for sure. It's tough to tell in this picture but what are the stems like?

I have this plant, just bought it this year. The nursery sold me this fertilizer for it/my other tropicals. It says you can use it every time but being paranoid I only do it every two weeks. My guys do really like it!

Out of curiosity, can you put it back in its happy place?

Have a look at Greenleaf Nutrients on Amazon. I've been using their Mega Crop and am very pleased with the results and ease of use >



https://www.amazon.com/MEGA-Crop-21-7lb-Bag-9-9kg/dp/B075FL2KHW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mega+crop&qid=1569233899&sr=8-1




https://www.amazon.ca/Greenleaf-Nutrients-MEGA-Crop-9-9kg/dp/B075FL2KHW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mega+crop&qid=1569233963&s=gateway&sr=8-1

Ace Hardware might carry the Fox Farms soil, I didn’t have any luck finding much non-MiracleGrow stuff at Lowe’s/Home Depot. The General Hydroponics nutrientsare available on amazon.

I got all the stuff at a local brick and mortar hydroponics store.

Ohh, or maybe this one?
https://www.amazon.com/Fox-Farm-Liquid-Concentrate-Fertilizer/dp/B00BYG6OB8/ref=pd_bxgy_img_2/137-9227113-7922258?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BYG6OB8&pd_rd_r=a49997f5-8002-4942-85a4-0fea2897f8bc&pd_rd_w=mNYq5&pd_rd_wg=40bkP&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=3YBQ8G7G6B635M34VB5V&psc=1&refRID=3YBQ8G7G6B635M34VB5V

Oh okay that is about on the very different end of what I was thinking.

Sounds very interesting, how does one go about into doing that? Is it done by composing the soil itself or measuring and adjusting?

I looked a little into what i described and only found this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0077KT47G/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_UH2JBb8GM6T0A
Disgusting that this is even sold on Amazon. Literally says apply week before harvest. Blend of plant hormones and sugars, that disguises as some kind of foliar feed?! The ratings speak for themselves.

this is what I've come up with for my second iteration of the parts list.

| Part Name | Model | Price | Link |
| --- | --- | --- | --- |
| Grow tent | VIVOSUN Horticulture 48"x48"x80" Mylar Hydroponic Grow Tent with Obeservation Window and Floor Tray for Indoor Plant Growing 4' x4' | $185.99 | https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Horticulture-Hydroponic-Obeservation-Growing/dp/B01731MNJE/ref=sr_1_7?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1548815676&sr=1-7&keywords=grow+tent |
| Grow Light | VIVOSUN Hydroponic 600 Watt HPS MH Grow Light Bulb Digital Dimmable Ballast Air Cooled Hood Set | $239.95 | https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Hydroponic-Digital-Dimmable-Ballast/dp/B00P8P51ZQ/ref=pd_sbs_86_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00P8P51ZQ&pd_rd_r=b5984eae-2511-11e9-9ef7-8b5dde2c9ca4&pd_rd_w=kv8VT&pd_rd_wg=d3xJu&pf_rd_p=d4c8ffae-b082-4374-b96d-0608daba52bb&pf_rd_r=G0R27XTT0WWJAAJ27SVQ&psc=1&refRID=G0R27XTT0WWJAAJ27SVQ |
| exhaust System (filter/fan) | VIVOSUN 6 Inch 440 CFM Inline Fan with Speed Controller, 6 Inch Carbon Filter and 8 Feet of Ducting Combo for Grow Tent Ventilation | $208.99 | https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Inline-Controller-Ducting-Ventilation/dp/B01NA07G79/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1548908529&sr=1-3-spons&keywords=inline+fan&psc=1 |
| soil | PRO-MIX 42.5L HP Mycorrhizae Growing Mix | $14.99 | https://www.lowes.ca/soil/pro-mix-425l-hp-mycorrhizae-growing-mix_g2826504.html |
| pots | VIVOSUN 5-Pack 5 Gallons Heavy Duty Thickened Nonwoven Fabric Pots Grow Bags with Handles | 18.99 | https://www.amazon.ca/VIVOSUN-Gallons-Thickened-Nonwoven-Handles/dp/B00TF9E6XE/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1548884123&sr=8-6&keywords=fabric+planters |
| temp/humidity sensor | TRIXES Digital LCD Thermometer Temperature Weather Hygrometer Humidity Moisture | $10.29 | https://www.amazon.ca/TRIXES-Thermometer-Temperature-Hygrometer-Humidity/dp/B00KGEAAMI/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1548824626&sr=1-5&keywords=temp+and+humidity+sensor |
| Nutriants | Advanced Nutrients pH Perfect Nutrients, Fertilizer. Bloom, Micro and Grow 1-Liter PACK OF 3 | $66.24 | https://www.amazon.ca/Advanced-Nutrients-Perfect-Fertilizer-1-Liter/dp/B07CQSBJ3K/ref=lp_7760549011_1_1?srs=7760549011&ie=UTF8&qid=1548904821&sr=8-1 |
| Total: | | $745.44 | |

I do because I'm slowly building raised beds on heavy clay soil that was only just put into vegetable production a couple years ago. My soil needs all the help it can get. I use it for my beans and peas since I rotate crops and they're going into fresh ground each year. I've tried a couple brands, but my current favorite is this one.

https://www.amazon.com/MEGA-Crop-21-7lb-Bag-9-9kg/dp/B075FL2KHW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542224991&sr=8-1&keywords=mega+crop+nutrients


This right here?

​

I have 3 plants all in the same tent and started at the same time. Its our first grow so all three have ended up being completely different sizes and our middle sized one has begun to develop dark spots and drop leaves. They are only 4 weeks into flowering right now. Our biggest plant also has a few dark spots on a couple leaves but nothing serious yet.

It started showing up about a week ago and originally we thought it may be a nutrient deficiency as I realized the nutrients we were using were acutally part of a 3 part system. ( https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07CQSBJ3K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P.cYCbWKQF7F8 ) We recieved the other two parts of the nutrient last week and I have given them nutrients twice since. The last time being yesterday with no noticeable improvements.

Should I continue on and hope for the best? What can I try to help her? Any suggestions welcome!

It's a high phosphorus fertilizer that promotes more buds/pods on plants.

https://www.amazon.com/Fox-Farm-Liquid-Concentrate-Fertilizer/dp/B00BYG6OB8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1498770175&sr=8-2&keywords=TIGER+BLOOM

> Ideas to lowering ph?

This...

I was Just talking about the shape of it. I guess the price has gone up to 10 dollars at amazon. It could be worth using the Myco+ if you have a bunch of seedlings though. These come in granules. Just know that under the wrong conditions mycorrhizae can be a bad thing. Here is the link I am talking about. https://www.amazon.com/Xtreme-Gardening-Mykos-Mycorrhizal-Inoculant/dp/B014QB8JUG/ref=sr_1_33?keywords=Mychorrizae&qid=1570229231&sr=8-33

The Acclaim Extra does more of the work in suppressing Bermuda. The Turflon Ester helps some, but is there mostly to lessen the impact of the AE on the Fescue. You need the AE. TE will work on its own if you have a little sprout pop up here and there, but it won't dent it long term on what you have going on.

I got a pint of AE each year. I use seedworldusa.com and coupon code seed4life for 10% off. They're the cheapest I've found: https://www.seedworldusa.com/products/acclaim-extra-herbicide-1-pint

Triclopyr: https://www.seedworldusa.com/products/triclopyr-4-herbicide-1-gallon (Triclopyr is the active ingredient in Turflon Ester. It's the exact same stuff, they just haven't paid for the labeling to approve it for use on ornamental lawns. You aren't really supposed to buy it this way, but it's far cheaper and I do it. Triclopyr is also a great broadleaf herbicide so you can use it other times of year to knock out most weeds.)

The other stuff I buy by the gallon, as eventually it gets used, it's far, far cheaper, and I have extra to help friends with when they have issues pop up.

I used Lazer Blue Marker from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Harvest-Concentrated-Pattern-Indicator/dp/B0049I9OBA

Southern Ag Surfactant: https://www.amazon.com/Southern-Ag-Surfactant-Herbicides-Non-Ionic/dp/B00553EREC

That's the plan that worked for me.

We use these bottles and just mix the fertilizers to the right concentration. It takes a bit of math to figure it out the first time, but it makes dosing a lot easier. We set our concentration to be 5mL per tank (we have two 15 gallon tanks).

We use different fertilizers than what are sold with this specific set but you get the idea. If you look around, you can buy just the bottles for about $5 each.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013RW4MNS/ref=asc_df_B013RW4MNS5409184/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B013RW4MNS&linkCode=df0&hvadid=242014118596&hvpos=1o7&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17355597956026018280&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9030257&hvtargid=pla-429537596314

I was typing up my list of shit for my second grow. Lets see if I got my Reddit Formatting Correct. :)

The Details

Seeds

• 1 x Fem White Widow
  
• 1 x Fem Hash Plant
  
• 2 x Fem Super Silver Haze - Scrogged
  
• 1 x Reg Cannasol Durban Poison Bag Seed
  
  Gear
  
  Veg/Flowering
  
  
• 48x48x80 Tent
  
• iPower 1000w
  
• iPower Carbon Filter
  
• Duct Fan One
  
• Duct Fan Two
  
• Fan Controller One
  
• Fan Controller Two
  
• Insulated Ducting
  
  Seedlings
  
  
• Power Cord for Seedlings
  
• Light Splitters
  
• Socket Adapters
  
• CFL's - Way, way cheaper at Home Depot
  
  Medium and Nutes
  
  
• Pro-Cal
  
• Growstones
  
• General Hydroponics Nutes - Lucas Formula
  
• Coco Coir
  
  Meters
  
  
• Light Meter
  
• Infrared Thermometer
  
• TDS Meter
  
• PH Meter
  
• PH Contol Kit
  
• PH Buffer Solution
  
  Pots
  
  
• 5 Gallon Smart Pots
  
• 14 inch Plant Saucers
  
• Scrog Screens
  
• Plastic seedling and one gallon pots
  
  Misc
  
  
• Foil Tape
  
• Ossilating Fan
  
• Snippers
  
• Assorted 4 and 6 inch fans
  
• Assorted thermometers
  
• Garden stakes, Twist ties, etc.
  
• Duct Clamps and duct tape
  
• 2 Timers
  
• Ratchets
  
• Distilled Water
  
• Various sizes of water mixing buckets
  
  
  

That pen will do - you got what ya got. Just make sure you get calibration solution and use it frequently. And take care not to let the pens tip go dry.

That stuff is for ponds, you want something more like this

I've never eaten it, but the main reason I include it in the mix is for nitrogen fixation and pollinator food.

You can buy clover seed that's already inoculated with the symbiotic nitrogen fixing bacteria. Like this product. I'm hoping that will help get the soil life reestablished. I'll add a bit of this to jumpstart the soil ecology.

Looks like you can eat red clover, so that's good to know. I think I'd rather eat the purslane, amaranth, and dandelion for greens though.

I'll make them with one half heat sterilized red clay and one half finished worm castings, then mix in the seeds and mycorrhizae, and make little discs. Once they dry, I'll be able to toss them in suitable places and hope for the best.

Sorry if this is TMI. It's been on my mind.

Hello! fish fertilizers like this are super gentle but not balanced (5-1-1). I use this all winter long IF i see my plant has not stopped growing! Usually the Philodendron hederaceum, scindapsus pictus and Epipremnum aureum get a very diluted dose of fish fertilizer or organic balanced fertilizer. Just figure out what works for your plant and speak it's language. If you see it's growing during the winter but leaves are smaller than usual... this might be a sign you plant needs food. happy growing :)