(Part 2) Best gate hardware according to redditors

door openers are not cheap.

if you want to open doors that have knobs, you also need to add an electric strike, or electrify the trim... which i've recently learned is what locksmiths call door knobs.

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here's an opener on amazon, that is about 1/3 the price of a commercial unit.

https://www.amazon.com/Olide-SW100-Electric-Automatic-Operator/dp/B00VJXBCIG/

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and an electric strike to release w/standard interior knob, this is about 1/3 the price of a commercial unit.

https://www.amazon.com/UHPPOTE-Electric-Strike-Fail-Secure-Control/dp/B00V45GWTI/

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you will need to provide power for the opener.

depending on the complexity of the controller for the door opener, it may be able to directly control the strike.

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once you have the opener and the strike, you just need any smart relay to use your phone.

such as, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GDFYTY/.

i don't know anything about the different ecosystems, i'm sure apple homekit has a relay as well.

Or a two-dollar hook/eye lock.

That's super cool and compact! One thing I'd suggest, if you offset the spring attachment points, you can maintain a more constant pressure without it over-stretching and maxing out the motor.

https://i.imgur.com/8wvK8WQ.png

Also, look at using strap hinges with plastic bushings. They're very solid and have little wiggle.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-14-1620-Heavy-Hinges/dp/B00004Z0W8

Hey man, I like the design but correct my if i am wrong here, shouldn't your diagonal bracing be going the other direction? The whole point of the brace is to take the cantilevered weight from the far end of the gate and transfer it down to the bottom hinge on the post and down to the ground.
It's highly likely this gate will sag over time.
I think if you are doing a tension brace you should use a threading adjustable tension rod. But you seem to be using wood as a tension brace when it should be used as a compression brace.


EDIT: In fact yes, i believe your bracing is backwards.


https://www.slidegate.net/what-is-the-right-way-to-brace-a-gate

https://www.fix.com/blog/wooden-gates-structure-and-design/

https://tp69.blog/2018/12/31/the-best-way-to-brace-a-wooden-door-or-gate/

https://www.amazon.com/Gate-Brace-No-Sag-Kit/dp/B00JYMGZJU

ALEKO® AC1400 Electric Sliding Gate Opener for Sliding Gates Up to 40-Feet Long and 1400-Pounds https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004Z8JBFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_ZKXGwbXWNZBYK

Do it yourself.

Have you looked into solar?

Mighty Mule EZGO-SOLAR Gate Opener Solar Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GWFT2AQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_FOJEAbXVETYT1

you could get an automatic coop door:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TONTHRG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We have a coop run that is highly secured, and a main coop that is also secured. We close the coop run manually, and the main coop house closes automatically. All it took was closing the girls in the main coop run then letting themselves get locked out overnight a few times for them to learn to get in the house. Now we have gone down after dark more than once and all the girls are in the house and the door closed.

you would need to secure the main run area better to use our approach though. Our run is enclosed on all sides (including bottom) with 1/2" hardware cloth. Right next to the main house door (where the girls tend to sit if they get locked out) is #8 mesh. All mesh is secured between pieces of cedar framing with screws running through the cedar and the mesh.

We use the slide type doors which I feel are more secure than other options. one I made myself with diamond plate aluminum (if you can get flat aluminum I recommend it) that slides between rails of flat bar aluminum that have a gap created by washers. You can also buy a very similar design if you want to:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018KIVUC0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The biggest thing you need to do to secure your coop/run area is enclose the entire thing in hardware cloth. It needs to be the small 1/2" hardware cloth like here: https://www.amazon.com/Hardware-Galvanized-Chicken-Supports-Poultry/dp/B015PD9F52/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1499439834&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=hardware+cloth&psc=1.

When I say enclose, I mean fully enclose on all sides including top and bottom. The cloth must be screwed/anchored in place (not just stapled). If you use larger cloth then animals such as racoons can reach through and grab the chickens. You should include the house in the enclosure. If you do not secure the bottom then they will just dig under and in.

I've had animals try and fail to get into my coop. I came out one day to find blood all over one side of the coop where an animal had tried to scratch its way in and lost claws. I also have come out to find that animals had tried to dig under the coop only to find hardware cloth there as well. you MAY be able to get away with just putting a hardware cloth skirt a few feet out from the coop but I prefer to just have the floor be hardware cloth.

Finally, all latches that allow us to get into the coop are safety latches since racoons can figure out normal latches. we mostly use hook and eyes like these (I use stainless though): https://www.amazon.com/Zinc-Plated-Wire-Safety-4-Pack/dp/B01LYNKFIL/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499440049&sr=1-1&keywords=hook+and+eye+safety+latch

Though our main coop door does have this sort of latch (which we intend to add a padlock to if there are signs of animals getting in through it): https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-National-Hardware-CD1271-Sliding/dp/B009YNW3QS/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1499440093&sr=1-12&keywords=gate+latch+lock

Also, looks like the whole kit is here -
http://www.amazon.com/Wood-Fence-Hardware-Single-Hinges/dp/B00ADXPBKI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398573418

Seriously? Where does anyone get anything: https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-Metal-Style-Handle-Bronze/dp/B00EDLVD8A But as noted, styling. And you can use them as handles if you choose.

I know this was posted over a month ago, but if you haven't moved forward here are my thoughts and experience. I will agree with most of what @jgpatty says, but I have had less problems

Install/DIY - As long as you have basic diy skills these are easy to install and the instructions are very straight forward. You will need a good drill and bits, square/measuring tools, and marking devices that is about it.

My Experience - I have installed 3 of the Mighty Mule Gate openers over the years, and was very happy with them. I find them to be very reliable. I have installed two of the m500 models at my own house. 6 years ago I installed the first M500 after after about 5 years something broke on it, BUT that is completely my fault. I neglected my gate (not the opener) it was having a bunch of problems. The hinges I installed were not very good and the post I put in was just a 4x4 which caused the gate to sag and drag on the ground. I tried adding a wheel to the gate, but in the cold weather (north east ohio) the wheel would freeze up and drag on the ground as well. Anyways after about 3 or 4 years of that the opener gave out. I am honestly surprised it lasted that long the gate was putting a ton of strain on it.

So Anyways this summer I removed my old wooden gate/post threw it all out and built a custom 5 x 5 metal post and metal gate with some good hinges and decided just to install a new opener instead of fixing the old one. Every works great

Solar Powered - The other one I installed at my parents farm. Due to the location and distance from 110v power I decided to go solar. We are in North East Ohio which has some of the most cloud coverage in the USA, and the worst rate for solar panels. I put in just one solar panel like they suggested, but in the winter they had problems with low battery, so I added a 2nd solar panel which is easy. You just splice/wire it up to the other panel and you have more charging capacity

Competition - The 2nd time around at my house I considered going with a Liftmaster/Chamberlain option because I have 3 of their garage door openers at my commercial building and they are great. For like $40 you can add an internet gateway that controls up to 16 openers, switches, lights, etc and they connect to home automation hubs as well. They mobile app/website tells you if they are opened or closed and for how long, you can get notifications, etc. BUT in the end the price was more than doubled so I passed on that. I looked into and read a ton of reviews on Aleko and Ghost controls who seem to be knocking off Mighty Mule, and the prices are a little better. But the reviews were not as consistent as mighty mule and since I had good experiences I decided to stay with them. I will say Aleko accessories are good and I have used a bunch of those

Tips & Tricks

Hinges - BUY A GOOD GATE HINGE. Your opener will last so much longer. And a gate hinge is only worth while if it has a grease fitting on the bottom. There are some great weldable ones on amazon for like $15 or $20 for a set. If you don't want to weld them on then you can get these aleko ones for like $11 a piece (they don't come as a set). I welded those ones on, but you can bolt them on as well

Solar Panels - If your gonna go solar install two panels unless you rarely use it or live in the south in a very sunny area. Also it is cheaper to buy the standard opener and just get the solar panels separate and hook them up. There is no difference between the standard opener and the solar opener it is just a bundle. For panels it is cheaper to go with Alekos panels. On Amazon you can get Aleko panels that are twice as powerful for half the cost. Might mule 10w is $99, and Aleko 20w is $45

Extra Batteries For Solar - If your not running solar the standard backup battery might mules sells for $25 is perfect, but It isn't necessarily cheaper but you do get a lot more bang for your buck if you go to home depot and get a deep cycle marine battery as an extended battery. You can then put the next to the post in the ground using one of these on amazon for like $10 - Waterproof Battery Box . That is what I did for my solar install. You wire the Solar panels to the large battery and then hook the large battery up to the main mighty mule battery or the extra battery hookups if your model has that. Make sure to use fuses :)

Mighty Mule Gate Lock - For $120 I was not impressed from a security perspective. If your gate is solid (wind can't penetrate it) then this serves a nice purpose of taking stress off the hinges, gate opener, post, brackets etc. Because a solid gate is pretty much a sail, But from a security stand point it is just too easy to bypass. The latch is just spring loaded when locked. You can stick a screw driver in there and release it. Also the retaining pin the bolt that the latch attaches to can be removed without tools and then the lock is attached to nothing. If you really want security use an aftermarket outdoor magnetic lock. They are about $60 to $80 on amazon and can be used on a mighty mule using the gate lock wiring. There is a little more DIY here. You have to put a separate circuit board in the enclosure for the magnetic lock

Keypad & Post - Don't bother hard wiring the gate keypad. It makes it a less secure system and then you have a run a wire. Using it wirelessly the batteries last more than a year with regular use. And when I say it make sit less secure all someone has to do it rip the wire out of the back of the keypad and push the two wires together to open the gate. Buy the Aleko keypad Post on Amazon. It is $35 vs the mighty mule $85

Inside or Fixed Location Opener Button - You can hardwire a garage opener style button that allows you to open the gate from inside the house, garage etc. It is cheaper and so much faster to just take a regular mighty mule clicker ($20), remove the clip from the back, and run a screw through the keychain hole to mount it to the wall of your house. it looks nice and mine worked for 5 years on the same battery with daily use.

How about getting something like this, but instead of using the bar provided, just catch the fence wire in the latch?

On my minivan years ago, I used a gate hinge with a regular NMO mount fastened to a crossbar of the roof rack. I used a couple of small rare earth magnets to snap the hinge closed for the antenna up position, then with a quick smack from my hand (or other handy stick) I could fold the hinge back to fold the antenna over. It was a cheap and easy solution. Unfortunately I don't have any pics, but if you're interested, I'll sketch up a quick diagram.

That all being said - there are also plenty of commercially made fold-over devices too and a quick Google image search can give you a bunch of ideas to play with.

I use a simpler design that is barely noticeable and requires very few posts. I create frames as you did, but using all metal. Using 1-3/8" pipe I use the following to create corners (this is not the vendor I've use, but Amazon had the photos):

https://www.amazon.com/midwest-technologies-328623b-Aluminum-Bolts/dp/B00E5JDNGU/

Then this to create the center post for stability:

https://www.amazon.com/T-Clamp-Ps-1-3-Rp/dp/B00331WLLE

Roll out the fence and use the wire to tie it to the frame. Once the frames are done then use the following to connect them to each other:

https://www.amazon.com/Chain-Fence-PANEL-CLAMPS-KENNEL/dp/B0113BD43E

Something like https://www.amazon.com/Chain-Fence-Hinge-Degree-Commercial/dp/B00A54K0FG would probably work, but you need to find something that will fit the smaller frame

These are pretty sweet in that you can lock them from either side and open your gate from either side. (And leave unlocked.)

http://www.amazon.com/LokkLatch-Deluxe-Lockable-Technologies-LLDAB-KSA/dp/B00HISFU2U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458186552&sr=8-3&keywords=locking+gate+latch

Any braided 1/8" hose will do fine

Something like this will work fine (it's 3 m long btw)

WALL PLATE HINGE, Chain Link Fence Gate Hinge, wall mount hinge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004EKNTEG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_UqhZCbG8K1NAZ

Use with regular chain link hinges. Protip: install the top plate upside down so people can't just lift the gate off its hinges.

On older doors, there is no 'hinge-side'. The hinge is between the door frame and the door, not on one side of it. This lets the door swing both ways on the same hinge, something like this.

Newer two-way hinges would look something like this, in which case both sides of the door would be a hinge-side (visible round part of hinge), but will open regardless if its pushed or pulled (though with a two way hinge, there's rarely a bar or handle to pull the door open with).

 

Edit: Video showing the install of a modern 2way hinge

That is called a drop bar latch, and they usually come with a knob to shift the drop bar - rather than the lever. The pic you reference looks rough forged by hand.


Here is one with a different handle design: https://doorhardwareusa.com/cart/pf/photopop.php?p=40040#

This one has a smaller knob instead of a lever/handle: Iron Valley - 7.5" Gate Drop Bar w/Knob (Lever Latch) - Solid Cast Iron https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011DBSU9M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a553CbHN9QRZ7

This Etsy shop hand forges: http://etsy.me/2eOiSQ8 and that design is interesting...

I predict that beautiful gate will last 95 years. Imho, the 2 or 3 hinges can be placed on either side pictured, and swing into the patio, like a front door. The door can be turned upside down, so you can hang it on either side, so the only question is, what you like, and how your eyes see the beauty. Because beauty is in the eye of the beholder, and in your case, the maker too. Perhaps with something like this. https://www.amazon.com/National-N342-535-Extra-10-Inch-Stainless/dp/B000OGI9FI/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1474119996&sr=8-14&keywords=gate+hinges+stainless