(Part 2) Best hole saws & accessories according to redditors

cheap hole saw?

https://www.amazon.com/HOLE-SAW-SET-Hole-Kit/dp/B004W8EE44

I'm not OP, but I found it for you.

Get an "oops arbor" for your hole saw: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HOLS2WU . Then use a hole saw that fits the existing hole as a pilot.

Sorry for taking so long to respond.

We put the bottle, with the lid off, in a cooking pot big enough that the bottle could lay on its side and the water would be just covering it. We held the drill on an angle we wanted while drilling the hole. I don’t mean to over simplify it, but we went slow and didn’t apply a lot of pressure.

We practiced on a few beer bottles before this one. The flat sides made it way easier than a round bottle.

Cost, $8 for bowl stem, and hangover the night before.

used these drills

And

this stem

Here is the link, make sure to measure your stems diameter before purchase too

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000SJ7KOC?pc_redir=1395586644&robot_redir=1

Here are these also for larger pots. The sizes it comes with are larger.

Drilax Drill bit set

If you find yourself making more cornhole boards, pick up a 6" hole saw. So much more convenient. Forget the jigsaw...

Sorry bub,
Didn't realize you needed me to feed you a link

Diamond Drill Bit Set, DRILLPRO 10 PCS Glass Hole Saw for Tiles Glass Ceramic Marble Bottles DIY,6mm - 30mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XFXHPRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HgQTCbBAN5C46

It might if you're using a drill press or have some other way of keeping it from wandering around.

I'd get a bi-metal, fine-toothed hole saw.

Or maybe even this if you want to get a cheap kit. http://www.amazon.com/13Pc-Hole-Door-Knob-Lock/dp/B004NJTYQA

Get yourself some masonary bits for your drill, mine were about 15$ on amazon. hit the thrift shop/yard sales etc. anything you like can be a pot. shallow pots are better than deeper for succs. i use egg cups, candy dishes, cannisters sets, flower bowls, serving dishes, soup bowls, etc. your choices are endless and it is a way cheaper option, especially if you have 50 or 60 of these things like i do. i also got glass bits for my drill and so have some really pretty glass pots as well.

if you want a store option, terra cotta pots are cheap and you can find them in any big store like walmart etc. sometimes the thrift shop has those too...and if they are a bit grungy, i wash them really good with soapy water to ensure no parasites, let dry then use a sanding block to sand away the grime or discolouration.

if your succs can stay outdoors, you can use concrete blocks (or make concrete pots). drift wood etc.

edited to add some links/info.

EDIT Again! here are some of the great pots i've thrifted and drilled. https://imgur.com/a/4ztbWmn

Diamond tip drill bits
or go to your hardware store and grab a bit, they're just more than 4 times the price.

Really easy:
Fill the jar/bottle with water and submerge it in water in your sink. The drill bit should be slightly under water as you drill, otherwise the glass gets too hot and the bottle will crack. The drill bit will slip and spin itself off, so I usually tilt it a bit to get an etching in the glass, which will act as a guide as you adjust the bit level to the surface. Don't drill too fast; it should take 1-2 minutes of moderate drilling. You're basically etching a circle through the bottle until it falls through.

It looks like he used a jigsaw to cut the hole which would make it rather difficult to get a perfect circle even if he has it well outlined.

If one of his love languages is receiving gifts I bet he would really appreciate this 6in hole saw blade.

https://www.amazon.com/GoSports-Hole-Saw-Design-Cornhole/dp/B06XX3ZF4N/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=hole+saw+6in&qid=1570403605&sr=8-3

I use something like this, and haven't broken a pot yet out of 50+ holes drilled! I keep a little puddle of water over the spot where I'm drilling, or at least keep it as wet as possible, to keep it from heating up too much. Honestly, it's been AMAZING, I have so many amazing pots now, including converted pitchers/cups!

Use a hole saw for terminal cups. It's really difficult to cut a hole that small with a jigsaw and have it precise enough for a terminal cup.

TBH, most of us don't use terminal cups. Drill a hole, push the wire through, put a dab of caulk/silicone on the inside. Straight connection=lower resistance=more power. Plus, easier and cheaper.

As for cutting the subwoofer holes, using a jigsaw is certainly a skill you have to develop. It can be done, but honestly, it requires a lot of practice. Once you develop the skill, you can do some pretty cool stuff.

For instance, except for the straight side cuts, I made this with a jigsaw, including cutting out the logo. Triple layer baffle, you can see how close each hole is (sorry for the bad picture, this was from years ago). They were all cut separately, freehand, from precisely measured and drawn lines.

Unless you want to put the time in practicing, best bet is a router with a circle jig. Find perfect center, drive in a nail, pop on the jig, plunge and spin, perfect hole.

go for the diamond dust bits. I just recently got a set of them and they changed my life. Well maybe not quite like that but they're leaps and bounds better than the arrow head looking ones. I got a set of 5 off Amazon for a little more than $10 and could not be happier with how they performed. Couldn't find any at my local Home Depot. The only issue is that they only go up to half an inch in diameter and the smallest downstem i've found is a tad larger than that. There is a set of bits by the same brand for like 30 bucks and they go from the next size up to like an inch and a half diameter but i'm not sure if i'm ready to upgrade to those just yet. It would make drilling holes for standard down-stems exponentially easier, but I don't do that kind of thing with any regularity. To make the holes bigger I have used a conical grinding or sanding drill bit but make sure you use water to keep everything cool (especially the diamond dust bits) and be patient. I've cracked many a bottle pretty badly due to impatience and improperly cooling the bit.

Oh and the brand is Neiko

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UF5V18/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3J828QRASPXDB

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Heavy-5-Piece-Diamond-Marble/dp/B000QVAGIE/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

I misunderstood, sorry. Thought you had a stainless undermount sink.

This is the tool I use:

https://www.amazon.com/EZARC-Carbide-Cutter-Heavy-Stainless/dp/B01I416MT4

Bosch holesaw enlarger

Starret Oops Arbor (needs a standard starret holesaw arbor to work though)

Good investment

I used a Drilax Diamond hole saw and a suction guide over running water. Worked great and very easy. Just any dill will do. Just take it slow and don't press down. Like 3-5 mins per hole.

Edit: make sure it's non tempered glass.

I would go the route of a diamond tipped hole saw. They arent that expensive, particularily only if you need one or two sizes.

Linky

A 2.5" forstner bit is a pretty big bit. You might look for a hole saw that size. Hole saws are cool. It's basically a tube with one end filed into a saw profile, and the other end coupled to something you can chuck up into a drill. Typically, these also have an ordinary drill bit that runs down the center, which you use to locate the hole on your work piece. Given that you're cutting through barn wood, I imagine a hole saw would work great.

Edit: found one

Awesome! If it's your first time drilling into glass, practice a couple times on similar bottles first. Also make sure you're using a hole saw like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00824A-16-Inch-Diamond-5-Piece/dp/tech-data/B000UF5V18

Design and design considerations:

• Outside Design photo - rooster crowing
  
• Outside Design angle view
  
• Inside reservoir view
  
• Inside close up view
  
• Inside full view
  
  
• I anticipated issues with heat and so I placed my reservoir inside the shed on the concrete floor for a heat sink effect
  
• reservoir holds ~30 gallons of water filled from my well
  
• pump pumps up to ~ 11 feet high in shed (~12-13 feet outside). Pump was rated for 220 GPH at 10 feet, 0 at 13 feet. I figure I'm getting 150-200 GPH at ~11 feet.
  
• I used old hoses, hose repair ends (male and female) with hose clamps to attach, run up and through the shed wall, use a 'Y' splitter and run into the top of each system.
  
• 4" diameter 10' long sewer pipe (cheaper than PVC), elbows and extensions to extend the distance between the elbows. I was concerned about them being too close and over shadowing each other and so there is ~22" gap at the narrow end, and ~28-30" at the far end
  
• target drop was 4" for the 10' run.
  
• at the bottom, I used sewer pipe to PVR converter and joined together with a bottom drain coming out (1 1/2").
  
• this returns through the shed wall with a ~1" drop over 2 feet to re-enter the reservoir at ~2 ' height above concrete
  
• I used these net cups
  
• I'm using Inkbird Pre-Wired Dual Stage Digital Temperature Controller Outlet Thermostat 110V, 1100W Heating and Cooling.
  
  Heating/Cooling:
  
  
• The Inkbird dual stage controller is set to 71F. If the temp goes below that then the heating plug kicks on to active this 800w heater
  
• As seen below in my temp graph, when the temp outside goes high enough, the water temp goes above my target max of 75 F. I need to come up with a cooling solution. Updates to come.
  
• 5/23 update: Decided to get an active cooler Hydrofarm
  Active Aqua Chiller, 1/4 HP - Note in the temp graph below the blunting of the green curve as the red (ambient temp) went high. I have the dual stage temp controller set to kick on the cooling plug at 68, and this starts the second water pump that pumps through the cooler. The cooler is set for 69 currently so when the temp reaches 70, cooling kicks in. I am continuing to fiddle with this setting.
  
  Nutrients:
  
  
• I ordered General Hydroponics Maxigro, Maxibloom, Each 2.2 lbs. - and I started at 1/3 concentration of recommendation of the Maxigro.
  
  Plant photos:
  Plants received dry bare root with no green growth from starkbros.
  
  
• 5/15 2 week old plant - notice the new white growth
  
• 5/23 growth and increase in root mass A lot of the brown is old roots from before the planting, white roots with a bit of browning is visible.
  
  
  Temp graph:
  
  This is with the La Crosse wifi temp probe (https://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Technology-926-25106-Wgb-Wireless-Monitor/dp/B06ZYJ5L5B/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8) so I can check remotely. Red line is ambient temp, green line is water temp.
  
  
  
• 5/15 temp graph
  
• 5/23 temp graph with heater and cooling effect
  
  
  Water changes:
  
  
• 5/20 - pumped out old water, filled and allowed to heat to ~58 degrees before being impatient and starting the pump. Ambient temp was low 60s.
  
  
  

My buddy goes on float trips a lot.

The only problem that he has is that his group doesn't have music and the waterproof boomboxes cost an arm and a leg (and very few have any kind of MP3 support)

I purchased a Pelican 1300, and I drilled out two holes on the top (~ 1" space on each side). I then threw in two waterproof speakers making sure that it was sealed tightly (required some calk).

I stripped the RCA side of a 3.5mm jack to RCA cable and soldered the ends to the speakers.

I have some of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WC22HTP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XoqLDbVSSWZDG

I thought about making one of the bigger joles., Though that would be enough. Or should o make several of the smaller size?

i went ahead and ordered this:
https://www.amazon.com/Rannb-Cutter-Carbide-Cutting-Stainless/dp/B07P2DZ2RD/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=carbide+hole+saw+4+1%2F2&qid=1569878579&s=gateway&sr=8-2

hopefully that'll do the job.

I'm trying to cut 6" wooden circles out of 3/4 to 1" thick pine boards. I purchased a hole saw and shank to use with my drill press, but am having issues with it.

It takes ~10 minutes to cut one disc because of how slow (vertically) I have to take it. If I use more pressure than the slightest increment down, it jams instantly. I've tried speeds as low as 700 RPM all the way up to 2300 RPM with little difference. Also, even when it hasn't jammed, the cut is very poor. It's ripping a lot of the grain causing me to have to do a lot of sanding to produce a finished edge.

I think maybe the issue is the quick swap shank. The retractable pins don't swivel, which means I can't screw the saw on quite all the way. It has a slight wobble because of this, which I think might be too much for a 6" saw to function properly. I'm thinking of trying this hole saw instead, hoping it fits together more snugly and cuts better.

Before I buy more tools, does anyone have any thoughts on the best way to cut 6" circles 1" thick?

here you go

I used these to drill several holes in thick glass brick. Go slow, especially with larger ones, and use plenty of running water to cool and wash away glass dust. Use a drill press to keep it straight and provide steady light pressure. They have similar larger ones.

Try this.

Don't know about this specific set, but there are many brands available on Amazon.com.

Here's one on Amazon that goes up to 5 for $14 and free shipping:

https://www.amazon.com/Hole-pieces-Mandrels-Install-Plate/dp/B001OC1958/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485966464&sr=8-1&keywords=hole+saw+kit

Edit: Also check Harbor Freight if you have one nearby.

Go hydroponic with the kratky method. Come on over to r/hydro or r/Hydroponics or r/HotPeppers and they can all help you out. I've grown stuff using mason jars. Specifically the wide mouth mason jars. Just need to black out the jar or else algae starts growing in the hydroponic solution. Chillies might need a larger bucket later, but if you have them in a net cup 3", you can just transfer the pepper from the mason to a larger container down the line. Good luck.

Are you just asking if normal drill bits can go through ABS fine? If so then yeah they do. For larger holes I use these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I416MT4

Hole saw. http://www.amazon.com/13Pc-Hole-Door-Knob-Lock/dp/B004NJTYQA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1453153378&sr=8-4&keywords=hole+saw+drill

or Unibit.

http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-59009-High-Speed-Step-Drill/dp/B0035WK7AI/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1453153416&sr=8-4&keywords=unibit

But we typically don't have to drill hole in boxes, as they come with knockouts for the wire.

I bought a hole saw kit, just for this purpose.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XAWU14U/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473826921&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=Tile+Drill+bit%2C5%2F8+in&dpPl=1&dpID=41DaPUGksrL&ref=plSrch

Best set Iv ever found.

Plastic? Just use a Hole Saw like the ones plumbers and electricians use to cut holes in junction boxes etc.
Here's an example:

https://www.amazon.com/LENOX-Tools-Bi-Metal-Arbored-Technology/dp/B0052EC44Y


Lenox and Milwaukee are the best brands, but, if you don't need it for "production" levels, other outfits sell far cheaper ones, like Harbor Freight.