(Part 2) Best industrial coatings according to redditors

Conformal coating!

I used https://www.amazon.com/CHIMNEYRX-Brushable-Chimney-Repair-Gallon/dp/B00UZLZLE4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=chimney+rx&qid=1556569430&s=hi&sr=1-1

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It worked great. I had a few cracks, and decided to use this. Expensive, but worth it to protect the crown. Pic after. https://imgur.com/6RmNxLO. I also used https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060NKMOU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for the flashing and roof aea near the chimney. Followed by https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060NKMOU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0060NKMOU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for the brick, as you can see the spalling. That I will eventually repair but it stopped the major degradation for now. Held up fine all winter, and it was a bad one.

I'd suggest just printing in plastic and painting it with nickel EMI paint.

U-Mark 10704PPM Red U-Phase Marker for Marking Up to #6 AWG Electric Wire, 13 mL (Pack of 4) (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019898IG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hwk2Db66A7HC6)

I know you wanted the rubberized handles, but that limits your options significantly. I'd say apply the rubber yourself with a tool handle dip.
BRS Stove - $16
Snow Peak Trek 900 - $45
Rustoleum Grip Dip $17.50

That leaves a solid $10. You can have them pick you up a canister or two!
I've been using both the BRS Stove and Snow Peak Trek 900 and they both work great. Now, if you have a windy situation, you may need to build a windscreen or get a MSR Pocket Rocket.

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Like I said, haven't done this myself so don't know from experience, but power washing seems to be the first step. After that, use some chemicals (a lot of epoxy kits come with de-greaser type cleaners. You might pick up some extra and do it several times if you have a lot of oil stains). One forum I read, the guy had a very old garage with a lot of stains and power washed, used some strong de-greaser chemical cleaners (multiple times), and used a wire brush to scrub the stains out by hand.

Edit: I found this first review here was quite informative and where I got the above information: http://www.amazon.com/Valspar-002-0050026-022-Quikrete-Garage-Coating/dp/B0010OKMS0

We use 3M Scotchkote on any underground splice. It never fails. It's expensive, it gets everywhere, it will NEVER come out of your clothes, it makes a GIANT mess, but it's the only stuff that works reliably in my experience.

Spin a wirenut loosely on the end of your cable and dip it in the can. It will keep water out until the apocalypse.

I started with the toner transfer method and after getting ugly ground planes, no matter what I did, I decided to up my game and see how I could improve. The dry film photoresist method is great!

Stencil:

• Laser Printer: I got this one for $50,- at the time, price has gone up since then.
  
• Laminator: Cheapest and best laminator I could find - no modding or anything required.
  
• Transparency Film/Paper: This one seemed to work the best out of all the others I bought.
  
  Etch-resist:
  
  
• Positive Developer (Sodium Hydroxide): This stuff is dangerous - it's lye! The solution I bought was pre-diluted 10% and can be found here. My developer solution is roughly 1% lye. That means you need to dilute one part from MG Chemicals bottle with 10 parts water. This has yet to go bad for me.
  
• UV Light Source: I use this cheap one found on Amazon. Works well and is just big enough to fit my largest 4"x6" boards.
  
• Dry film photo resist OR pre-sensitized photo resist boards: Pick any that you find will suit your purpose. I found some lying around at my university and have no idea where it came from. I've heard good things about Riston (eBay), and we use the pre-sensitized boards made by MG Chemicals at my university.
  
• Other: Rugged rubber / "vinyl" gloves, safety glasses (you should own these already if you solder), a respirator if desired, lots of plastic containers such as Tupperware big enough for your PCBs, acetone to clean the copper boards and to remove the photoresist, reasonably heavy duty scotch brite pads, and glass from a picture frame to hold the transparent stencil onto the board.
  
  Etchant:
  
  Here it really is up to you. I use the hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid) with hydrogen peroxide method, but any method will work fine. Be careful that your etchant isn't too strong and will somehow inadvertently strip off your photo resistive etch-resist!
  
  I hope I didn't forget anything...
  
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  Pros:
  
  
• Cheaper than a CNC by far.
  
• Cleaner results than toner transfer, if done right.
  
• Reusable chemical solutions - depending on your choice of etchants.
  
• Photoresist also allows you to make your own solder masks. Take a look at my previous post here for pictures!
  
• High accuracy depending on your printer. I can confidently get down to about 6 mil before I get nervous with my printer.
  
  Cons:
  
  
• Still somewhat pricey if you have no materials on the list at all - somewhere around $200.
  
• Dangerous chemicals which require proper storage, safe handling, and approved disposal.
  
• Will probably take a few trial & error runs to tweak your procedure in order get good results; same as toner transfer.

Get some of MG Chemical's liquid tin. Its great for preventing oxidation.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005T8PE4A

I work in an ESD protected environment. Any non conductive material can build a static charge. There is a spray on ESD protection coating you can buy though.

https://www.amazon.com/TECHSPRAY-1756-8S-STATIC-DISSIPATIVE-COATING/dp/B005S3LA9Y

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o5fEp0wpKFw

This was done with two light duty chains formed into a loop at the end. I used several of rolls (5 ish) of the 0000 grade steel wool. At the end of the video you can see that the chain was red hot from how hot the steel wool got. You can also see in the video I'm using very little protective gear (No gloves, no facemask etc.) I also set the neighbors yard on fire.

https://www.amazon.com/Steel-Super-Rhodes-American-Finish/dp/B074MDTWQR?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_2593612011

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Do not be stupid like I was. I got lucky because if one of those chains whipped back up and hit me it would have branded me.

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Edit:

When you unroll the steel wool, you have to fluff it in order for it to burn properly. If it's tightly compacted it will not burn quickly enough as enough air cannot get to it for the oxidation to happen rapidly enough. Too loosely packed and it will burn much too rapidly and fly off in one large mass of molten metal.


The cage sort of design you're describing might be better suited for sparkle poi made from lump coal charcoal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pa7f11SJxBI < Cages
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4OIIXx-rWk < omg this guy is a fucking fire wizard.

https://www.amazon.ca/MG-Chemicals-D-Limonene-Industrial-Container/dp/B071R3Z8BL/ref=asc_df_B071R3Z8BL/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292993973230&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16764554069384885948&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001263&hvtargid=pla-349782215649&psc=1
https://www.amazon.ca/Patriot-Degreaser-Deodorizer-D-limonene-Industrial/dp/B00QPJGWAC/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=Limonene&qid=1551137680&s=gateway&sr=8-11

We didn't price hunt, this is the product we purchased. $40 total + a $2 bucket and a free stir stick (came with the paint)

There are two types you can use that seem to work well. A Silicon version, and a Acrylic version.

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https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-422B-340G-Silicone-Conformal/dp/B008O9YGQI/

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and:

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https://www.amazon.com/MG-Chemicals-Premium-Acrylic-Conformal/dp/B06XWGCKX5

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Both work well. I prefer the Silicone version as the Acrylic version has a blueish tint that bothers some people.

if the conductive paint (black) has worn away, you can get a conductive silver pen or conductive paint and re-draw/paint the conductive bits back on

Flavortext: My buddy and I love hiking, foqund a cool lake and decided we wanted to get a boat, some fishing rods, and add fishing and boating into our fun weekends. So she and her fiancee sweet talked the fiancee's dad into giving us his old 18-ft canoe since he does not use it anymore. Got the canoe, 2 beautiful wooden paddles, and some life vests.

The details: There are a couple decent-sized cracks that need repaired and the hull has a number of smaller cracks that might not be leaky now but could get worse in the future. So I'm researching how to repair it all and do a full recoat. The article I'm going off of is: https://www.familyhandyman.com/automotive/how-to-repair-fiberglass/

It appears I need (and the item I have found so far):
-Resin
TotalBoat Gelcoat (White, Quart with Wax) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00Q53C3NS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DONKDb0754A9Z

-Chop filler
Cabosil Filler, FUMED Silica White Powder thickener, 1 Gallon for epoxy Resin, Paint, Thickening Filler, Hydrophobic, Fishing Fly Floatant, Polyester Resin, Fiberglass Resin https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PXXQ4N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VQNKDbVPMJBNX

-Resin Thinner
Hi Bond Styrene Qt 701930 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002IV6LDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3ONKDbAVBRDW4

-Pigment (optional but why not)
Light Blue Pigment for Epoxy Resin, Gelcoat, Paint, Latex - 4 oz https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0746MSGMR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uQNKDbN56RMSZ

-Disposable Sprayer
Preval 0227 227 Sprayer System, 11"x5.25"x4.25", Multicolored https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NXNE6CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hONKDb6BGQ8BK

Anyone have any thoughts on the product choices? Any recommendations for better products or suggestions?

https://www.amazon.com/BRITE-MARK-Rough-Tough-Marker-orange/dp/B00P5U9V9G/ref=pd_sim_328_13?ie=UTF8&dpID=31ZNRN8p33L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=FS4784RQA7N1BY3FM5VP

Like this? MG Chemicals Acrylic Lacquer Conformal Coating, 340g (12 Oz) Aerosol Can, Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008OA7178/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RcvazbEZQ4ESH

I know of no paint-on membrane that will do what you want. You would, in effect, be putting a layer of synthetic rubber over top of the existing material. That's not going to last, in my opinion. The best roll on membrane is perhaps EPDM (ethylene propylene diene monomer); this product is painted on to a depth of about 20 mils. Here is one such version:

https://www.amazon.com/Liquid-Rubber-White-Coating-Gallon/dp/B003KA00VQ

It'll work, but it does not handle furniture and foot traffic all that well.

To me, the best way to build a roof top patio is to install the PVC or EPDM, then go over top of it with a decking system. Bison Systems has one such design:

http://bisonip.com/bison-products/pedestals/

No feet or furniture ever touches the roof, and it should last for many decades.

this looks like it might fit the bill

http://www.amazon.com/Rust-Bullet-MB24SP-Treatment-Remover/dp/B0011YY5EQ