Best industrial process filter bags according to redditors

personally i would go with something like this with one of these I believe that still also comes with tubing, clamps and a hookup to your faucet but i may be wrong. In which case those are easily ordered from amazon or ebay. This setup would be pretty close to the ease of the t500 due to the electric element, its also safe to run indoors (provided you leave a window open for ventilation) and the 2" triclamp leaves your options open for upgrades like a reflux column should you wish to produce neutral or vodka. I also want to add, a nice hdpe bucket like this and a airlock such as this are great to have. A filter like this comes in handy for filtering yeast and sediment out of mash. As far as extras you dont need much other than a mash bucket, airlock, and way to cool your still head. I personally run a 32gal trash can filled with water and a pond pump to to recirculate my water without any wasting any, but for a small apt i would just use the kitchen faucet and screw on a adaptor

I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.

The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.

> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.

> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.

Original second level comment begins:

Final Tips: Bonus Round!

1. Extruder Indicators are pretty cool (and USEFUL). You can get the magnets super cheap (or amazon).
   
2. Learn how to do An Atomic Pull (AKA Cold Pull), and learn it well. Do this every time you switch filaments (See "Doing it the lazy way" at the bottom of the page). You'll help remove built up deposits each time, which will help ensure a long, jam free life for you nozzle. This also skips the bleeding necessary when switching filaments (on your next "Load" you'll get a few mm of old filament and then pretty much pure new filament after that, instead of the 100mm or so of transition). You can skip doing a proper Cold Pull if you're using a brand new printer anyway. Just do a lazy pull each time you switch filaments, and then a proper Cold Pull maybe every 100 print hours, or after using extremely difficult (wet or super exotic) filaments to help remove any residue that may cause future jams or other issues. This does require undoing and redoing the idler tension again, but once you've done it a few times you can do the whole pull and filament swap in under a minute (minus hotend heatup/cooldown time). White Nylon is great for proper Cold Pulls, partially because you can crank the temp up very high (which ensures any residual filament in the hot end should also melt), White PLA would be okay for example, but may not properly pull PETG or ABS from the nozzle. White is great thanks to the color, of course, which allows you to see any residue easier; However, any color may be used. If you only ever use PLA, then PLA would be just fine for a Cold Pull. Seriously though, start by doing Cold Pulls from Day 1 and you'll easily cut out 50% of your future issues.
   
3. The small metric fasteners used in the printer are cheap. They are used in a lot of designs found online, so you should stock up (alternate source). The primary fasteners used are M3 Socket Head Cap 0.5 pitch, mostly full thread. You can also get the nuts very cheap. Square, Nyloc, and Hex. I can get the exact lengths used in the Mk3 if anyone needs them, though I'm not sure the exact grade used, it only really effects corrosion resistance.
   
4. You can also Calibrate the Extruder steps/mm and extrusion multiplier. Many people will tell you only the later is necessary but I prefer to do both anyway. Theoretically it does make a difference, but practically you can just compensate for steps/mm with the extrusion multiplier, and for all intents and purposes the result is the same, so "many people" are totally right.
   
5. You can also Calibrate the PID. You probably won't have to do this for PLA out of the box, but may find you have some temperature swings with PETG or ABS temperatures. The Official Help Article also discusses this method and how to calibrate using the LCD if you prefer. I like to keep my Mk3 settings vanilla (I've never used an M500 directly, and avoid them when I can), so I like to get my PID values manually and set them in my start GCode instead, which also allows me to setup my slicer so each switching filaments automatically switches PID profiles. The bed can be calibrated as well, but again you probably won't need to do this unless you're experiencing temperature swings more than -/+ 5°. One or two degree dips/spikes is perfectly normal (though theoretically can be tuned out, requires proper enclosure for stable ambient temps, etc).
   
   There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:
   
   

• Wire Snips beat the included pliers hands down. For $4 how are you not going to pick these up right now? The cutting edge on a pair of pliers sucks and it doesn't help that it's ****ing halfway down the length of the tool. I tried to get away with just using the included tools and simply gave up trying to use the included pliers to cut zip ties. If you have Prime, get a pair of these now. Get a pair even if you don't - they're worth the shipping cost too. Thank me later.
  
• 608 bearings (for prints such as TUSH),
  
• Loctite 222 (helps prevent screws from vibrating free, not necessary thanks to Nylocs used in Mk3),
  
• A humidity sensor (for filament dry box and checking ambient),
  
• An accurate scale (for calculating remaining filament),
  
• A small fan (enhanced print cooling when needed (not very necessary except for ultra extreme bridges), enhanced circulation in filament dry box),
  
• Small bags (for silica beads),
  
• PTFE tube and matching Bowden Couplers (for something like Spannerhands),
  
• Lubit-8 (for the LMU88 bearings),
  
• SuperLube (Silicone Grease w/ PTFE for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  
• Canola Oil (for lubricating/cleaning filament and seasoning the nozzle/hotend (not necessary with modern hotends)),
  
• Small Brass Brush (also for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  
• Nozzle Reams (for the extremely rare jam, because you're doing your Atomic Pulls, right?),
  
• Extra Nozzles (no need for the kit, just an example. Hardened nozzles (black) are a good idea for composites, last longer than Brass, regardless of filament used. Prusa Mk3 comes with 0.4mm nozzle preinstalled, but you can easily swap the nozzle),
  
• E3D Hotend Sock (helps lock in heat for (theoretically?) lower current usage and more stable temperatures, also helps keep plastic off the heat block in case of print failure),
  
• Magigoo (or other adhesion aids) (for certain exotic filaments, otherwise not necessary with Mk3),
  
• Tempered Glass or Borosilicate printbeds (for certain exotic filaments),
  
• And of course, Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or better, preferably 91% or better) and Acetone, just to name a few...
  
  Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..
  
  ^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!

Hello! This looks incredible! I'm just now a high school senior and have been looking into aeroponics after having done hydroponics for at the past three years. I was apprehensive to spend my petty fast food job money on one of those $80 8800 pumps that aeroponic supply companies sell, and those outrageously priced $5 a piece 50 micron plastic nozzles. I'm glad I finally found a source of information that doesn't try to up the price a ridiculous amount. Also great work on using the Arduino as a timer as that was my plan too! I just never got around to it and decided to learn Python instead of C++ :P You're quite right that finding a timer for this kind of application is both a pain and expensive otherwise.

I have a few questions about your build.
How many nozzles/sprayers can this system support?
Is the above question dependent on the size of the accumulators?
Are those brass nozzles able to produce 5-50 micron droplets?
Are there any problems you have run into using this system?

Final note: check these filter bags out, as they might be a little easier to use straight away than a sponge and could fit into a larger water reservoir.

I’m not going to lie, this post may scare some people off... it’s really simple I just explain in specific details... here look at My Tula results I have replicated multiple times with this process...

Buy this too:
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5 Micron Polypropylene Filter Bag - overkill/makes paint slick

Read all this if you want good results, I go into detail, maybe too much but it is what it is.

Buy filter too, cut out circle from filter large enough to fold into a cone that you stick in your small funnel you use when pouring paint into your gun. If it won’t stay folded, paperclip/staple, the folded piece.

Make sure you have clean gloves on, and good ones... when the paint is almost done straining, squeeze the filter pushing the last bit through. To reuse filter run cheap lac thinner through filter media.

Prep Notes:
——————
If you are this far, I am assuming you followed my recommendations for 120-180 alum ox to prep with, you just sprayed the gun down with lac thinner or acetone and it’s hanging...

Mixing:
————
This whole process will make the paint a little runny, but silky smooth - mix it at 2 parts paint, 1 part thinner, basically 70% paint, 30% thinner.
***If you get cob webs which look like spider man spraying webs from your clean gun put a little more ethanol in until it sprays smooth. Think “50:50 is max dilution, I’m at 70:30” and eyeball a 60:40 mix.

Spraying:
—————
Turn the pressure down on your gun to 25psi, that is set when you depress the trigger half way.

You want it to go on glossy/shiny/wet looking and even. Let first coat dry by air, don’t use a heat gun. Put subsequent coats on nice and wet enough to shine but not enough to run and you will have dead nuts the Tula look, take your time.

IF you get a run with this paint it is OK, let it dry... it will take a bit to dry dry, Go right back over run area next few passes. With a little bit of glossy misting, then a wet coat.

Do not over do the first coat, make sure your 10 inches back... the ethanol will retard dry time a lot. Be patient.

Do NOT put this project in the over, near heat, near a fast blowing fan once it’s wet. It is going to dry slow slow and that helps process smooth out the paint. If you do get it near heat, fans, whatever just repeat until it is black and shiny.

Once dry over night you can bake it/heat with heat gun.

A few recommendations:

1. Double strain, i.e., put your prepared kava through another strainer bag (doubled up if need be)
   
   
2. Get a finer filter bag, such as a 10 Micron Size bag
   
   
3. Chase your kava with lots of ginger tea. Throw 3-4oz of coarsely chopped fresh ginger in a pot with 3 cups water and simmer for 20 minutes. Add honey and drink during your kava session.
   
   
4. Take some high quality probiotics. This will help break down the resistant starch in the Kava which is likely the major culprit.
   
   
5. Get a strain that is low in both DHK (Chemotype Number: 2) and DHM (Chemotype Number: 5), such as Mo'i from Gourmet Hawaiin Kava. These two constituents tend to be more correlated with nausea. See more about Chemotypes here.

Something like this filter will take it to the next level, until you get a plate filter...

https://www.amazon.com/Duda-Energy-PESP1PW-01um-Polyester-Industrial/dp/B00KE83O7Y/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=1+micron+filter+sock&qid=1568692488&s=gateway&sr=8-6

Yeah for Kief or real smushy material you need to order some of these bad boys https://www.amazon.com/Nylon-Rosin-Press-Filter-micron/dp/B06X6KG5T9/ref=sr_1_1?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1527560275&sr=1-1&keywords=Squish+Strong

But me personally i go for much smaller presses so i think the bags i use are from that same company but they are 1.5inch x 4inc a smaller bag. edit just for reference, i only press buds and rarely have to use the bags. Sometimes ill get some fresher material than i expected and ill have to use the bag before if not the shit will just keep pancaking out too far

It's entirely possible to use a hair straightener if you're careful.

Hash doesn't need a whole lot of pressure. But the temperature you have to watch. It should only have the slightest sizzle when you touch it with your wet finger. When I used one of those back in the day, I would toggle the power until I found the sweet spot.

And you definitely have to use some kind of bag to hold back the plant matter. You can grab them on the cheap from Amazon.

>rozninc bags
>
> https://www.amazon.com/ROZN-inc-Rosin-Bags/dp/B07RHHVV4B?th=1
>
>These?