(Part 2) Best milling tools according to redditors

I mean, she's correct if:

• Your house is the assigned location for your C&R license and your purchase is, indeed, something worthy of the term "Curio and/or Relic".
  
  
• Your house is the assigned location for your FFL (assuming that you are 1: weird enough to run an FFL and 2: weird enough to run an FFL out of your house.)
  
  
• You purchase rifle kits (holyshit PSA just put one out for $299) and then buy one of these lovely 80% lowers+jigs and then buy this end mill and then buy this end mill and then go to HarborFreight and find the cheapest drill press you can that can be modified to ~1700RPM and then spend a week or so milling, measuring, milling some more, then deburring, then anodizing, (or aluminum-blacking + engine paint, but hey, your mileage may vary) and then finding out that it cycles like shit because your buffers are either too heavy or too light and then waiting on Amazon to ship tungsten buffer weights, and then finding out that the issue was a glob of grease that had dried in the gas line anyways, so all you really needed to do was purge the gas line with brake cleaner, which you had to drive to Autozone for, and then... it is just a click away.

Did it all with a hacksaw, a file, cordless drill and sandpaper. Before I put the grip on it weighed about 14 ounces (receiver, barrel and full mag weigh about 4 lbs). Spent about $16 on material. Need some sort of pad for the buttplate.

edit: more pics: 1, 2

edit:

Here's the process. I should mention that the receiver is a 10/22. Here's the basic drawing. It is to scale but I don't know what scale. If someone knows where to host a pdf without it being smushed into a png let me know. The square part is 6061-T6 rectangular tube, 24", the cylinder is 6061-T6 round tube, random length (discount codes)and the grip is a standard AR-15 grip. I had an extra but they're pretty cheap. The inside dimension of 1.5" rectangle tube is 1.25", the exact outside dimension of the receiver. Basically you just want to remove just enough material from the rectangle tube so that it fits snugly into the cylinder. When you're satisfied with the fit drill through both pieces while they are fitted together so that all of the holes align. Use a short machine screw on each side to fasten.

Next remove enough material so that the receiver fits into the rectangular piece. Note that all cuts made along red lines are at 5.5° angle from the edge of the stock material. Also note that if you have tech sights you'll have to remove the front tower to fit a 1.75" cylinder over the end of the barrel. When you're satisfied with that fit drill a hole for the takedown screw.

Now start removing material for weight reduction. Be sure to leave connections between the side walls for strength. For cutting arcs it helps to have a jigsaw blade. If you use a jigsaw you have to run it at a very low speed because the teeth gum up with softened aluminum. In hindsight I wish I had left more material in this area. The butt end should look kind of like a tuning fork. You'll just clamp the prongs together, drill and apply fasteners.

The grip requires cutting to fit snugly and it helps to have a tap and die set so that the stock will receive a screw in the same way it does on an AR.

In the process of building it I found out that they make 1/4" shank milling ends that will fit into most any router. You'll need some way to cool your workpiece though. If anyone has experience with this method let me know how well it works.

You say an endmill is out of the question and then ask if you can buy a flat bottomed endmill. Yes, they do make those.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00075FWVU/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

Are you cutting the holes using a CNC or dremel? There are tons of chamfer bits that will get you a 45 degree chamfer consistently. Any machine shop will sell something similar to this.

As for the ribbon cable, remember that as the temperature drops, these cables will get REALLY brittle. Sadly, I have no idea as to whether or not the cable can be broken out without affecting timing.

$60!?!??!!?

v.v even if its not perfect thats still $1140 less than I spent.

http://www.amazon.com/Kodiak-Diameter-Flute-Solid-Carbide/dp/B0070YYL40/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407770439&sr=8-3&keywords=kodiak+1%2F8%22+2+flute

Could you clarify this?
>Don't cut more than 2x the tool diameter deep
>Start at 0.050 in aluminum

What are you trying to say here? Like, 2x the tool diameter of a 1/4" bit is 0.5"...
Are you suggesting that I should do like 0.2x? That would give a pass depth of 0.05"
Finally, I'm not planning to do too much with metal, so would this and [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Kodiak-Cutting-Tools-KCT166406-Diameter/dp/B0070YYOI8/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y4FFGXENFZ3C128D9K9G) be sufficient alternatives to the set that you mentioned?

https://www.amazon.com/Kodiak-Cutting-Tools-KCT136442-Diameter/dp/B007BTPAJE/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_pd_title is the bit

Using .479 inch birch plywood

Starting using .62 doc at 35 ipm
*.062 sorry