Best milling tools according to redditors

I mean, she's correct if:

• Your house is the assigned location for your C&R license and your purchase is, indeed, something worthy of the term "Curio and/or Relic".
  
  
• Your house is the assigned location for your FFL (assuming that you are 1: weird enough to run an FFL and 2: weird enough to run an FFL out of your house.)
  
  
• You purchase rifle kits (holyshit PSA just put one out for $299) and then buy one of these lovely 80% lowers+jigs and then buy this end mill and then buy this end mill and then go to HarborFreight and find the cheapest drill press you can that can be modified to ~1700RPM and then spend a week or so milling, measuring, milling some more, then deburring, then anodizing, (or aluminum-blacking + engine paint, but hey, your mileage may vary) and then finding out that it cycles like shit because your buffers are either too heavy or too light and then waiting on Amazon to ship tungsten buffer weights, and then finding out that the issue was a glob of grease that had dried in the gas line anyways, so all you really needed to do was purge the gas line with brake cleaner, which you had to drive to Autozone for, and then... it is just a click away.

Get yourself a good build surface if you don't already have one. BuildTak works pretty well but there are plenty of options now. Don't mess with things like hairspray or plastic slurry, they are messy and a waste of time. Just google '3d printer build surface'. You can also just stick with Kapton tape on the 2x, that works fine too but It's not as durable, you'll be replacing it much more often and it really depends if you want to print in ABS or PLA.

I own a Replicator 2 and one of the 2X clones from Monoprice and have used a Flashforge creator, all are basically the same printer. As long as you have the upgraded extruder which most of them came with after the first Makerbot Rep 2 year and a good build surface, you don't likely "need" anything else.

If you do plan on doing a lot of printing though, get yourself a nice set of build removal tools. I use a cheap square headed exacto knife, the more flexible the better but it takes a little bit of practice to not cut your build plate that way. The other options are small spatula with very thin, sharp front edge. I have a kit like this one https://www.amazon.com/Synkia-Print-Removal-Enhanced-Version/dp/B01IMWL1HS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480291918&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=3d+print+removal+tool&psc=1 that works ok as well.

Also you might want to pick up some small end mills/PCB cutting bits to use for cleaning the nozzle. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/3-175mm-Carbide-Engraving-CNC-Machinery/dp/B00SMDOUPS/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1480291965&sr=8-6&keywords=pcb+mill Make sure they are smaller than the diameter of your nozzle before you buy them.

Take your time, get to know the machine, don't go nuts trying to upgrade it until you find out where your pain is. That generation of printer can be hit or miss, either its the best darn thing you've ever owned or... you have a lot of pain. Newer versions of that design should work great out of the box but if it's a machine from the first release year without any upgrades it will have problems.

Good Luck.

Your body and brain are going through heaps of changes - take all the help you can get and more - make it as easy on yourself as possible. Especially if you feel that familiar slump. See your doctor. Ask for counselling. Just know that how you feel right now isn't forever.

Can wholeheartedly recommend SAD lamps too ( https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07XGQLFD7/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_rsmWDb9GKP4VH ).
They're small, about the size of a Kindle and as sceptical as I was, they definitely work some kind of magic on me. Helped me get out of bed for a start.

Just get some 4 flute end mills (best you can afford, AlTin coating helps aluminum not stick) and run it on the manual machine unless your doing complex geometry. Don't take to much width of cut tell you know how it will cut and no more than 2x the tool diameter deep. Start at .050 in aluminum. As for rpm the best bs way is to start out slow and spin it tell the flutes blend together. This is a ok set I got in school they cut steel and aluminum just fine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D5TQ8GS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_arI.zbPH7VNV9

>carbide end mill

That worked for you? I will just order both as I will be testing all sorts of things. Any recommendations? Looking at this one :

https://www.amazon.com/Kodiak-Cutting-Tools-KCT131536-Diameter/dp/B007BTQ8TK/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=kodiak+carbide+end+mill+ALTiN&qid=1572283174&s=industrial&sr=1-2

I fought with mine for a week with various dremeling and drilling to little effect. Then I bought an end mill from Amazon and it took about sixty seconds to get the weld out.

I use that exact set, a pin vise, and the magnets /u/PostEmUp linked when building gaming minis. The only potential issue is that standard drill bits are pointed, and need to drill more out than is always desired. If you're feeling flush, pick up one of these end mill bits, drill your starter hole only until your hole has 'sides' (the hole has the cone at the bottom, with short vertical walls), and finish with the end mill so the magnet sits flush. If the piece is too thin for that you may get away with using a magnet on one side and a pin head on the other.

Morse Heavy Duty Large Plastic Wall Chart - Decimal Equivalents, Recommended Drill Sizes for Taps, and Useful Formulas https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07J57XZXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.X7lDbQFQ23DV

This should do nicely: https://www.amazon.com/2L-inc-Carbide-Uncoated-E2-250x2-0-125-5/dp/B01J2KKGDY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527553815&sr=8-2&keywords=1%2F8+dia+1%2F4+shank+2+flute+endmill

As far as what works in aluminum: 2 flutes, coated HSS or carbide, but you cant really make use of the cutting ability of carbide without the machine rigidity to take a super heavy depth of cut. And I'd get in touch with your local Kennametal or other cutting tool distributor, they can probably get you some free samples. Oh and safety glasses, all the safety glasses. Lexan machine guards if you can.

Best of luck!

Depends on the climate. I take this one ordered from Amazon (£26.99) which is rated comfort at 8 degrees, limits at 3 degrees and extremes of -11.

It’s also a good size and lightweight - it fits in with all my camping stuff in an Oxford 30L drybag.

I’m 6ft and fit in it, wouldn’t be good if you’re much taller though.

Fellow DIYer, I just did a brake line for my Toyota and it's kind of a pain in the ass. The flaring tools you can get on Amazon are kinda hard to use and it's difficult to get the flare right. You also need a camfering tool and a deburring thingy like this

Hi, I ended up going with the Lindens version

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Lindens-Lavender-Essential-Capsules-Manufacturer/dp/B06XPLTLLN/ref=pd_nav_hcs_bia_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5TGKZHNFDWGT95XYT5N8

as it says Lavender Angustifolia and the reviews were good. I would say the effects were subtle but better than l-theanine for me. I did double the dose a couple of times too.

I get the impression that they're all pretty similar so I just bought the cheapest ones I could find. I think it is these ones:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Bear-Fit-weight-lifting-support/dp/B01GWIEWXO/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1551087981&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=bear+wrist+wraps&dpPl=1&dpID=51zP%2BZocj%2BL&ref=plSrch

Can you bore it halfway from both sides?

You could probably get away with your idea, I don't know if its the best approach though. Do you have any Endmill holders you could run it in?

Forstner bits seems to be for wood. I'd want to use tooling meant to be used with metal such as an end mill.

From a quick search:

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Cutting-Diameter-Straight-Milling/dp/B01AXUU5EW/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1506308742&sr=8-7&keywords=28mm+end+mill

for reference, i'm using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/JERRAY-Carving-Tapered-tungsten-Carbide/dp/B015C6CHUC

This on the inside and this on the outside. Round over 1 long board and then cut it into 4 pieces.

Ok, I looked for about an hour and I honestly could not find a video. Here's the best I can do to give you instructions.

(I'll try to skim over the obvious)

First, you're using this edge finder or similar

Offset the edge in the y-direction such that it is towards the part. Bring it in to the part until it touches and keep moving at a lower rate (about .01 should be efficient) until the cylinder looks all but solid. Now moving at about 0.001, keep moving while rubbing your thumb up and down the side inline with the y-axis until you no longer feel a lip. Mark the position and then continue in the same direction by 0.001 (or smaller) until you feel a lip again. At the point that you feel a lip again, you are about .0985 (+- .0005) off from the edge of the part assuming you did this right.

Do the exact same thing on the x-axis.

Let me know how this works out for you. It should be the next best thing to buying a dial edge finder for like $470+

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000I6JJHG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484122898&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3%2F8+endmill&dpPl=1&dpID=21YCmBjY1LL&ref=plSrch#sims-fbt-shipping-details_1484122919890

Scroll down and you will see frequently purchased together. The 1/4 but and drill stops I just finished 2 80% buying all three of them