Best industrial thread sealants according to redditors

Since it's a cheap piece you probably just want a cheap fix...

Maybe wrap the downstem with some teflon tape to seal it up and keep it from wobbling.

dont use tape with adhesive.
the tape i use is literally a dollar on amazon and im certain it will last my entire stretching journey

https://www.amazon.com/Dixon-Valve-TTB75-Industrial-Temperature/dp/B01BY9OH86/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1525330858&sr=8-6&keywords=ptfe+tape

Are you using an NPT or triclamp style tube? If you're using NPT (national pipe thread, american pipes in inches basically) you can get a brass NPT ball valve, a reducer to put into the valve for a smaller thread size, and another brass piece, this time a 1/4" flared end for gas. You'll need teflon pipe threading tape to seal everything up and a vice grip or a couple of pipe wrenches to put the thing together. You can get all of this on amazon.

If you have a device like in picture with triclamp ends you'd already know where to get all of this crap but www.glaciertanks.com and www.brewershardware.com sell all the triclamp pieces you will ever need. Glacier Tanks is in oregon and supports the CLS extractor community directly by selling pre-fabbed terpinator style lids and collection pots, Brewers Hardware has a bunch of stuff they don't carry though as well. I've used both and they are awesome. Brewers Hardware also has lower prices on a lot of stuff like the spools you'll be using as extraction tubes, and they sell the national pipe thread to triclamp ends that I'm gonna need to modify my own old open blast tubes (my 1-2 and 3-5oz tubes depending on material and how tight it packs) into CLS parts. I have a calculator setup i've figured out though for how big of a tube can fit how much material for CLS use though. a 3"x18" spool fits about a half pound (bhogart sells a 3"x36" as their 1LB unit and it fits roughly that), so I figured out its volume from there and I can figure out how big of a tube will fit say 1oz, 2 ounces, and so on. you don't need perfectly filled tubes with CLS extractors either, you can fluff the top with coffee filters so the butane disperses evenly on the top, and typically in a shower style unit like the Bhogart, the top few inches don't get properly extracted anyways if you fill it all the way to the brim. I try to leave 2-3 inches at the top of the 36" column bare so it can just shower down and it seems to work really well, but with a narrower tube size you will probably be okay.

IF you got this far, you also are going to want a can cracker. You can use it on the top of the pipe in lieu of the brass hose hookup by screwing it directly to the top, but you need to make sure you get the right fittings for it. It looks like the crackers they sell all have the 1/4" flare end facing the wrong angle, so you'll probably need the hose after all. here's the cracker and a link to the right type of hose, as well as a link to one of the fitting types (though maybe not in the right NPT thread you need).

cracker: http://smile.amazon.com/Robinair-10102-Side-R134A-Respective/dp/B0009XT7NY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421275663&sr=8-2&keywords=refrigerant+can+

PTFE lined chemical hose buying list. you want 1/4": http://smile.amazon.com/Unisource-Chemical-Assembly-Connection-Pressure/dp/B007USNQNI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1421275772&sr=8-6&keywords=ptfe+lined+hose

the style of brass end you need: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000WTXICQ/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

brass coupler to put the end into:
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B006PKMJCQ/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

something to put the brass coupler into to make it fit your valve: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00835RTY4/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
2" brass valve: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0081LIGIS/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

ptfe tape: http://smile.amazon.com/Dixon-Valve-Coupling-TTB50-Temperature/dp/B00IIJB7F2/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1421277137&sr=1-3&keywords=ptfe+tape


after reading around, you said your pipe was 2" so i modified the list with everything you'd need to modify a 2" pipe.

What we did at my house was get some:

craftsmen nozzles (lifetime warranty)

A roll of teflon tape for the threads

And some quick connects

No leaks, and is super easy to change hose attachments.

Pretty basic, but I have this in all my vehicles now -
Loctite Insulating wrap

It saved my ass in my M5 when I had damage to a cooling hose a long way away from home. Wrapped up the hose and put ~100 miles on it with out a single leak.

To seal the outer, non-moving seams, use a window caulking like:
Dap 18275 DYNAFLEX 230 Premium Elastomeric Interior and Exterior Sealant, 10.1 oz, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000CBJI6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_KqiWDb6F2FA9M

To seasonally seal the seams along the track, use something like:
Dap 18354 Seal 'N Peel Removable Caulk, 10.1-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001QFZS6E/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_JniWDbG8RNJ5K

Just read the directions and clean surfaces well before applying to ensure you don't waste time and have to re-do it shortly.

Likely you didn't mess anything up, don't worry. If you're feeling really confident, you could take those keys off and put a small amount of teflon tape around the lever pin to prevent it from slipping through the hole.

Thread tape. Piping tape. Whatever you want to call it. Just pick some up at Walmart or something. They're cheap. Something like this:

Dixon Valve & Coupling TTB50 PTFE Industrial Sealant Tape, -212 to 500 Degree Fahrenheit Temperature Range, 3.5mil Thick, 520" Length, 1/2" Width, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IIJB7F2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_ytvyub059TS27

Stick it with NP1 and you wont EVER get the legos off the wood again.

One pro tip?
The copper lines coming outside will need to be bent 90 degrees without crimping. The trick is to buy long springs that are near the ID of the copper lines. Slip the springs in [you may need to tie a string to them to retrieve] so they are placed where the bend is anticipated. The spring will prevent you from crimping the copper and pulling the string will stretch the spring allowing you to retrieve them.

Another tip is

If you aren't confident about making new flares and want to use the full length of the lines supplied make a loop of the line behind the outdoor unit and sand the supplied flares with 400 grit before tightening. Also,buy the HVAC "thread sealer". It acts as a lubricant to allow you to easily tighten the flares and get a good seal.

Finally,snug up the schrader valves with a schrader wrench before you evacuate/charge

https://www.amazon.com/Schrader-Valve-Core-Removal-Cores/dp/B00UASKOG2


https://www.amazon.com/Refrigeration-Technologies-RT201B-NYLOG-GASKET-SEALANT/dp/B008HOSQQQ

PTFE Yellow Gas Line Tape: http://www.amazon.com/-CO-Slic-Tite-Premium-Temperature-Thickness/dp/B004MYFPAK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422003333&sr=8-1&keywords=ptfe+tape+gas

Can get at any hardware store also....

I have the dual fuel smoker. Get a needle valve, it works. It takes very minor adjustments to slow the fuel. You'll need tape, and extra propane gas line as well. You will have to keep an eye on it to make sure it doesn't blow out, but it hasn't done it on me yet. I got exactly this:

http://www.amazon.com/LASCO-17-1631-8-Inch-Straight-Needle/dp/B008E5C7NG

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-59913-Propane-Hose-Assembly/dp/B007HG7Y7M

http://www.amazon.com/44094-Slic-Tite-Thread-Premium-Length/dp/B004MYFPAK

I can't image silicon working very well. T-tape & dope work just fine. There are things like Locktite 55 and X-pando if you're having problems.

The way I would do that is bail out the tank, remove the ballcock, inspect the hole in the porcelain, inspect the gasket on the ballcock, apply dope to the ballcock gaskets , install the ballcock in the tank, dope the threads on the outside end of the ballcock being careful to not get dope inside of the ballcock, attached the supply tube to a firm hand tight.

Turn the water on and test

https://smile.amazon.com/Oatey-15804-Hercules-Megaloc-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000BQ8DUW/ref=sr_1_4?crid=SWRFTX4OKEDO&keywords=megalock+thread+sealant&qid=1573895934&sprefix=megalock%2Caps%2C132&sr=8-4

We had an epic clog in the bathroom sink once. The prior owners liked to cram hair down there or something. We ended up having to shut off the water to the bathroom, removed the piping, and manually scraping out all the goop and hair in the pipes. Then put it all back together and water test it. Took about 90 minutes and it has worked well ever since.

If you have to go that route get a pair of disposable gloves, one of those plastic drain snakes (about $2-$4 at HD), and a hook and pick set (saw one at autozone for $1.79). Don't forget some plumber's tape(just got some for $0.52 at walmart).

You can use either a big channel-lock pliers or an actual plumber's wrench (usually more expensive) to take apart the pipes, if you need to buy some measure your pipe sizes ahead of time. You will either need 2 of them, one to counterbalance your wrenching, or some other way to hold the other end in-place while you unscrew stuff.

Good luck!

As an aside: the amazon stuff I linked is waay over priced, but it lets you know what I am talking about, and I'm too lazy to find the best prices for stuff in your area.

I would recommend finding something like this Water Heater Pex
It's 3/4 so should be able to provide high pressure.
Also when I did my house with pex, I used Tape Thread on the water heater and still hasn't had a leak :)

Good luck

Perhaps something like this stuff would do the trick?

• If you're pulling a cable through concrete, fine, just fill the hole with this so you don't decrease your fire safety. If the cable isn't getting jostled a lot, I wouldn't worry about it being damaged.
  
• The difference between CAT 5e and 6 isn't much today (both can handle gigabit ethernet), but will matter in ~3-6 years when consumers start using 10 gigabit ethernet. CAT 6 is almost as cheap as 5e these days, so I'd put it in

That sucks. 🙄🙄🙄 so frustrating.

I’d also suggest that you go back to the piercer and have them help you tighten them.

The plumbers tape is available at home improvement stores or large box stores. I actually used it on the jewelry as I was stretching my nipple piercings, but it’s awesome at making a good seal, literally wrap it around the screw portion and then put the ball on, should keep it secure.

Use PTFE tape, the stuff I just linked below is industrial and military grade tape so it should hold up to a lot of pressure.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IYFC2VI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1413996582&sr=8-1

> You should bring up who installed what.

Why?
So they can get an unpaid claim?

Insurance companies base some of their decisions off of professional installation. I'm willing to bet there instalation involved some plumber's tape and a wrench. The black and white world of claims isn't going to understand that.

You're a who again?

Ended up overnighting a tube of this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002YQBU2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's not white but clear will work since you can't see the roof anyway. It's going on a fiberglass conversion top.

Thanks for the input. I’m between that and the 3M marine grade silicone. Silicone was previously used, so I was thinking I’d b stick with it for this application. Thoughts? There’s also 4000 which is specifically for sealing screw holes.

3M Marine Grade Silicone

3M 4000

What sort of projects are you working on? My buddy used to design Bayliner boats for Brunswick, and built a number of small boats, but has since moved on to aerospace.