Best jaw pullers according to redditors

Battery terminal puller:

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4611-Battery-Terminal-Puller/dp/B000ZIZ32W

Just replaced my worn Carbon GT pulley with a steel pulley a couple weeks ago! It was incredibly frustrating and took me a lot of trial and error to figure it out, but this battery terminal puller is the main tool I used.

I also bought a heat gun to heat up the pulley's loctite to make removal easier and had to drill out the grub screws because I'm pretty sure I stripped them while trying to unscrew them. You also need a 1/2"-1" screw or small metal rod that fits the 8mm diameter bore of the axle so you can use that as leverage with the terminal puller to pop off the pulley.

This probably sounds unclear and complicated because it totally was to me when I started, but one of my next Electric Wave episodes will be focused solely on explaining this procedure. I've already shot the footage, I just need to edit it together. I'll get it up as soon as I can so you can get yours removed as well. Feel free to DM me with any questions in the mean time and I'll do my best to answer them.

I'm also seeing similarities to "jaw pullers", perhaps and old, stepped version?

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-1022-Mechanical-Matic-Puller/dp/B000KJ29Q4?ref_=fspcr_pl_dp_11_15708871

For cheap and simple you could just get a hitch-mounted winch bracket. Of course it will only pull you backwards not forwards, and depending on your use case you may not be willing to sacrifice your departure angle clearance.

For even more cheap and simple you could just get a basic hand-powered "come-along" puller. Not quite as "manly" as an electric winch but almost as good and about 1/10th the price.

Thanks. Can i fit this floor jack in my trunk at all times? Should i go low profile or extra low profile? I have a mi nivan

https://www.amazon.com/Arcan-XL2T-Black-Profile-Service/dp/B00BMPFI6I/

Most shops tend not to put much faith in any repair attempts done by customers, thus they will want to repeat whatever troubleshooting steps you already performed.

While you will only use the tool once, this $16 tool is cheaper than your shop visit:
https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-46950-Relay-Puller-Pliers/dp/B002NR2Z56

and there's the [ahem cough] Amazon return policy.

You can tap it with the wrench you used to remove the nut. This can free up the wedge they use to tighten the clamp. If tapping doesn't work you can use a screw driver to gently pry the clamp off. Too hard and you can rip the post its self out of the battery, ask me how i know that. If it really gives you trouble get one of these, any parts stores should have them.

This is the best answer here. The upper and lower "mounts" are struts that unbolt without needing to support the engine. There's a plastic plug in the passenger wheel well, pop that out and you'll find the motor mount bolt. It's a large torx head, T50 or T55. Support the engine with something that will allow you to either raise the engine or lower the body at least another 8 to 14 inches. Pull the motor mount bolt, disengage the motor mount from the aluminum engine plate and raise the engine/lower the body until the engine plate can be removed. Be careful to not damage the coolant reservoir while raising the engine. This is how the car was designed to be serviced. From there its pretty easy. Oh yeah, one of the first steps should be pulling the grille and upper radiator support for easy access to the PS pump bolts. You'll need a GM/Chrysler harmonic balancer puller, no getting around that. It can seem challenging until you get one or two of these under your belt then it's an easy 2.5-3 hour T belt/water pump job.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunex-3905-Reversible-Puller-2-Ton/dp/B000X2566I/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1542564292&sr=8-8&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=small+puller&dpPl=1&dpID=41X7uxBmMQL&ref=plSrch

Cut the head so that it will chuck up in a drill, run it up tight to grab the pad , once it gets enough tension it will run the foot in. Hold the assembly and give it a little more with the drill to grab tighter, then reverse the drill to spin it out, hold the assembly again in reverse to loosen up from the pad.

Bonus is it will be adjustable to different size pads, you can modify it some to stop parts from flipping around once you fine tune the settings.

I bought [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN9S5X2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1) one since out of all the ones I've found on amazon, this one seemed the most promising.

Gear puller. Like this: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Inch-2-Jaw-Gear-Puller/dp/B077KDWL4H

Snapon or Matco. Their warranty is what makes it worth the price. I'm a professional mechanic and this is the one I have http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002SRGCU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465137539&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=3+jaw+gear+puller+otc&dpPl=1&dpID=41-bOwcbn6L&ref=plSrch

Those pullers are mainly designed to pull pulleys off shafts (think automotive applications). In any case they're cheap and yes it's a design flaw.

There are other pullers with smaller ends that would be more suited for what you're doing, such as these:

ABN 3-Jaw Gear Puller Set – 3”, 4”, and 6” Inch Removal Tool Kit for Slide Gears, Pulley, and Flywheel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPQKWV5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hXPCCbDQEY7YV

You can buy tools just for this purpose, just make sure that the middle post is small enough to fit in the gears hole. The link is for a random example.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Inch-3-Jaw-Gear-Puller/dp/B06XP5J2X1&ved=2ahUKEwiejvnhzf_hAhVGIKwKHTyRAB8QFjAPegQIARAB&usg=AOvVaw0r5w7xI-QWLg6aPQ59QBG9

You may need a pulley removal tool like this: https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Inch-3-Jaw-Gear-Puller/dp/B06XP5J2X1

Also, just double checking that we are talking about the bolts and cover plate that are shown in place, in your picture

I have an Arcan floor jack and it's very well made. This one is $100, which is a really good price for a good company.

I had to do this to my wife's 2000 Jetta a few years ago. A bit of a PITA job, but not difficult and like you said, about $50 for the assembly. I had to buy wiper removal tool as well. https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4676-Windshield-Wiper-Puller/dp/B000L7JQE8

I try to hype the more power puller whenever I can 6000lbs straight line pull. I sometimes use it to uproot small trees.

200 bucks what an incredible ripoff. just use this https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5685-4-Inch-3-Jaw-Puller/dp/B000NPPB1K/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1494639647&sr=1-4&keywords=gear%2Bpuller&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ZIZ32W?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

I knew that. 😨

It's definitely possible that the new one fits a bit tighter than the old one. It sounds like you pulled the old one off by hand. If you can get a grip on it, grab tight and rock it back and forth. Try to shimmy it off. If that doesn't work, you can go to nearly any chain auto parts store and grab one of these cheap ugly things out of the bargain bin.

http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-5691-6-Inch-2-Jaw-Puller/dp/B000NPR2ZS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398130498&sr=8-2&keywords=two+jaw+puller

It probably won't fit too well behind the pulley, but it's cheap enough to grind down the bottom of the jaws until it does.

Looking at the picture again, I see what you mean about the timing cover. Brain fart, sorry, I was thinking about timing belts and their plastic covers. If you can get to them with a chisel and hammer, you can try to rotate the screw counterclockwise by putting the chisel on the side of the screw's head, and tapping it firmly. Sometimes just the shock of doing this gets them to release a lot of their grip.

You need a hub puller. They come in two types: one that bolts to the hub, and a more universal claw type one.

The bolt ones never fit right and tend to stretch the bolts, and the claw ones never fit right and tend to slip off. I would suggest just buying an assembly at this point. As others have pointed out, the annealing on the inside tends to make it impossible to get the old one out, and a pain in the butt to clean the surface to get the new one in.

I just looked up this tool online and it looks like a thing that holds the battery peg downward and pulls upward on the terminal connector easily, looks like its what im wanting since the battery peg is getting ripped out when I just use a screwdriver to pry it. is this the right tool? https://www.amazon.com/OTC-4611-Battery-Terminal-Puller/dp/B000ZIZ32W

I had this same issue a while back. I used two different items. I tried using a gear puller, but it wouldn't fit below the motor pinion. The claws were too thick. I ended up using a Windscreen Window Wiper Blade Arm Puller to get it going. Then I switched to the gear puller. I forgot what size the gear puller was, but here it was something like the one I linked below. Some heat couldn't hurt as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Grade-18212-4-Inch-Adjustable-Puller/dp/B002O16UGQ/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523555996&sr=8-4&keywords=gear+puller


https://www.amazon.com/Windscreen-Window-Puller-Remover-Removal/dp/B01HJBM2WG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523555789&sr=8-1&keywords=windshield+wiper+blade+puller

New doc now. We did the helmet for our daughter.

DIY!!

https://www.amazon.com/ARISD-Paintless-Dent-Repair-Puller/dp/B07BN9S5X2