Best oil lube systems according to redditors

I'd do the maintenance routine just to be sure it's ready to roll. Details are in the owners manual. Basically, air compressor and blow out the power head. Light oil on the sheaves in the oil holes, any light oil like 3-in-1 will work but I like zoomspout because you can get down to the lower sheaves without having to take the headstock cover off. Graphite lube on all the controls and threaded components, paste wax on the way tubes, table, quill and any other unpainted parts.

It's not critical immediately, but you probably want to wire cup those bottom tubes at some point to get all the rust off and then paste wax to prevent future rusting.

I'd pick up a Penn State shopsmith adapter for the lathe, and then you can use any standard 1x8tpi lathe chuck. The barracuda 2 is a great kit that covers everything you need for small to mid-size turnings and is much more affordable than a nova or oneway chuck. Pick up a tailstock live center or two if you don't have one. While you are at penn state, pick up the shopsmith compatible pen mandrel if you want to try pen turning.

Shopsmith sells the jacob's chuck you need for the drill press. Used ones are a little cheaper on ebay. You might also want a tailstock drill chuck (or a cheaper one from harbor freight) for the lathe, especially if you fancy trying pen turning.

Make sure you have a power coupler or two, you need them for the bandsaw/jointer.

If you need any parts (bearings, belts, switches, etc) for your shopsmith, try Jacob's Repair Shop before you order from the mothership, he sources parts that are cheaper and higher quality than the stock ones.

Not trying to hijack the post, but this reminded me of something I have been meaning ask here. Has anyone tried one of these precision oiler pens? Seems like it would serve a similar purpose.

Gotcha.

I mean if you already had some batteries then 120$ isn't too bad.

You could always buy an extra whip for a manual gun. There's also a 90 degree grease tip you can buy which helps for some of the harder to reach nipples.

fitting

I run through a can of grease and have to refill my oil can (straight 30 weight) so much more often than my WD40 can. Nothing wrong with WD40, but for most common applications there's a better choice than WD40.

Only advice I'd have on this is (if you don't know already) is to make the adjustments with the engine running, it's a little messy, but way faster and more accurate. At least in my experience when dealing with hydraulic lifters.

Grab some stoppers for the push rod side of the rockers to minimize spray like these.
https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-25050-Rocker-Stoppers/dp/B01MUE220P

Warm up the engine, then shut it down. Remove valve cover. Add stoppers. Start it back up. Loosen rocker slowly until it starts ticking. Tighten 1/3 to 1/2 turn, and move on to the next...

This is a metal lathe not a wood lathe, not that you can't turn a piece of wood or any other material on it, but you might be better asking r/Machinists or r/metalworking/ for details on that specific machine.

Those little funnels should have like a spring loaded ball bearing in the top to seal it? You need an oiler like this to lubricate it. The tip should depress the bearing and allow oil to enter.They make specific oils for lathes you can order from who knows where for $$$, I just get the heaviest gear out the auto store has, I hear chainsaw bar oil works as well. For the ways, carriage and various screws/adjustments points on you really just need something heavy and sticky. Kind of hard to inject grease in those fittings so heavy oil is what I use.

Edit - Nice Safety Glasses are the first thing to get with a lathe!

It sort of depends on the types of things he wants to make, but a good starter set like this https://www.amazon.com/Turning-Turning-Hardwood-Handles-Ferrules/dp/B07TTFLDLB/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?keywords=wood+lathe+chisel+set&qid=1572720167&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzMlA1NVQ4TkgzUFFMJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNzQ1NDcwMjJIOVY5U0hERTlMRCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTYzNDM3MTI0R0tSU0hRVk9RMiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

or

https://www.amazon.com/Savannah-7173-Turning-Hardwood-Ferrules/dp/B004MM3MES/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=wood+lathe+chisel+set&qid=1572720167&sr=8-5

will keep him busy for awhile as he finds his style. The real key is to get him a good way to sharpen these chisels. I like to use a 4 sided block or individual plates like these;

https://www.amazon.com/Jewboer-Diamond-Sharpening-Polishing-Whetstone/dp/B0752Q7GQ3/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?crid=2LXHR48U1CLJS&keywords=4+sided+diamond+hone+block&qid=1572720305&sprefix=4+sided+diamond+%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-3-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFNMTBUWkE0MUhXNkcmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwNDgwNTYzTVFQQVlZQjdEOTdNJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAyMDUwNTEyQzFXSko5N1Y0Sk0md2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl

or

https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Whetstone-6-Inch-Sharpening-Sharpener/dp/B07JVV7JD6/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2LXHR48U1CLJS&keywords=4+sided+diamond+hone+block&qid=1572720305&sprefix=4+sided+diamond+%2Caps%2C229&sr=8-6

Some people like to use a bench grinder for sharpening but in my experience it is a a bit easier to use the honing blocks and stones until you have an idea of what angles you like best. Im terrible about dropping my chisels so I use the 200 grit to fix up dings and generally touch up my chisels with a 400&600 grit stone once a week or every other.

The other often forgotten necessity is oil for the lathe & chisels.I use a light oil on my chisels, lathe accessories like chucks & tapers, the bearings & spindle, and anything else on the machine that spins. The brand I like and have seen in a few different shops is Zoom Spout Oiler https://www.amazon.com/Supco-CE441-Zoom-Spout-Oiler/dp/B00DM8JK2G/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3NI4QXDJATASP&keywords=zoom+spout+oiler&qid=1572720750&sprefix=zoom+spout%2Caps%2C225&sr=8-4

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For the Lathe Ways & the body of the machine, everything that doesn't get Light oil I use Way Lube.https://www.amazon.com/Mobil-100772-Vactra-No-2-Way/dp/B07B7XZKVF/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=lathe+way+oil&qid=1572720930&sr=8-1

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Squirt everything spinny down with light oil before and after you use the lathe and you wont have issues with dust & chips gunking everything up. Way lube can go on once a month or whenever you want a fresh shine.

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You are such a nice girlfriend, He is going to be stoked!! Good luck!!

If you are going to change the plugs anyway, I would get one of the oil pumps linked below and squirt a few pumps of marvel mystery oil down in the cylinders to help lubricate everything before you start turning the motor over. I did this on my vette that sat for 20 years before I started it back up. Also, I’m a big fan of RockAuto for parts. Much cheaper than local auto parts stores and you can get whatever quality you are looking for. Lots of AC Delco products for GM vehicles on there too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N347KI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_V.SSBbBWX98AK

Yes, but only if it's a greasable type of ball joint.

This is where the ball joint is:
http://media.ed.edmunds-media.com/mini/cooper-countryman/2011/fe/2011_mini_cooper-countryman_det_fe_823124_600.jpg

The white arrow is where the actual 'ball' is, and the green arrow is just the dust boot.

Look all around the metal part where the white arrow is pointing. If you see one of these:
http://www.duraflexinternational.com/images/zerk.jpg

It's greaseable. Here's a size comparison to help you spot it: http://i898.photobucket.com/albums/ac186/BellePlaine/Volkswagen%20Forum/2012-08-20194923.jpg

IF it is greaseable, you'll want one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Lumax-LX-1152-Deluxe-Pistol-Grease/dp/B000MD4YKM/ref=zg_bs_15707871_1

Along with the right grease for your car. You can search forums and the internet to find out the type of grease or even if it's greaseable.

Here is a great video that shows you how and gives some extra information about greaseable joints:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bB2RiRKDQ9k

Or you could just use a drop of motor oil which probably works better. In short the argument is that the marketing works.

I used serpentine oil, this one: https://www.amazon.com/Supco-CE441-Zoom-Spout-Oiler/dp/B00DM8JK2G

Not that I would spend the money on this stuff myself for that card, but your card, your decision.

https://www.arctic.ac/us_en/products/cooling/vga.html

As for the stuck power connectors, a drop or two of mineral oil from a precision oil dropper usually does the job for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Refillable-Needle-Precision-Pin-point-Ew2132a/dp/B004WWYRL0

You should be able to find something similar at your local gun/auto parts/hardware store

I probably wouldn't sweat .3 liters on a 3.4 liter oil change.
I have a tool like this: http://www.amazon.com/OTC-2359-Oil-Suction-Gun/dp/B00FJT0304/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1463525219&sr=1-2&keywords=oil+suction

that I have used to remove oil when something is over filled. That is a reputable brand name, cheaper versions should be available at auto parts stores.

Hi Uber,

The linear rails themselves should not wear under normal use, however the bushings are definitely considered wear items.

According to our calculations based on information provided by Igus, most users should get about 1 year of moderate to heavy use before the bearings need replacing. That lines up pretty well with what we have seen. A few users have reported what seems to be premature wear, but it does not seem to be a common problem.

We do sell replacement bearings on our site:

• X Axis
  
• Y axis
  
  You can extend the life of the Y bushings by using a light coat of light machine oil on the rails. I don't recommend using oil on the X, since it can trap dust in the rail. Definitely do not use oil on the Z shafts, it will cause problems. You can use oil on the leadscrews if you wish.

My flight school had a pump like this . Kept it full all the time and left on the oil drum. Easy

Reese Towpower 58117 Hitch Ball Lube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0008F67JU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i7-vzbDPRCSK9