(Part 2) Best power paint & hvlp sprayers according to redditors

Or spend $24 on this and not worry about blowing yourself the fuck up

No. It would just spatter little droplets on the wood and make a mess. A spray bottle doesn't atomize the finish. A spray gun does if the pressure is high enough. A spray gun shouldn't be a pain... can your compressor handle the CFM requirements of the gun? Check out turbine HVLP systems. It is the same gravity fed spray gun you would use with the compressor, but with a turbine to continually make air instead. It will set you back some $$$, but they are great. You don't need a compressor. Those airless sprayers are really more for thick house paint, since they don't atomize the finish. Atomizing the finish is a must for getting it to flow out nicely and not splatter and orangepeel.

I bought everything to do it at home because it was cheaper than having a few rifles done by other people. And I like learning new things and doing it myself.

$120 Benchtop Blast Cabinet

$45 50lbs Aluminium Oxide blast media

$40 Dewalt Touch-up Spray gun

$8 Oil/Water Separator

$18 3M Respirator

$8 Powder Free gloves

$14 5ml Glass syringe for easily measuring small amounts of H-Series catalyst. Not necessary but nice. (Grainger.com)

$20 Gallon of Acetone (hardware store)

$30 for misc hoses/fittings

$$$ Container for soaking parts in acetone. I use a 50cal ammo can for almost everything

$$$ Oven for curing if using H-series. I use an old large toaster oven.

$$$ Air compressor with regulator (I already had this)

$$$ Cerakote (plus mesh strainer, graduated cylinder, tape, etc)

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$300 not including the compressor, Cerakote or oven.

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Definitely buy extra Cerakote to practice with and learn how to adjust the spray gun. I practiced on some old tools and a rusty vise that I had. I now have a Stormtrooper White vise on my workbench.

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• For containers I just use 1 pint cheap plastic containers that soups come in or deli give you. I guess you can find a nice piece of Tupperware that is about that size, and a taller one for taller prints. You could probly just ask the Deli guys at a food store for a few empty 1 pint containers + lids.
  
  
  • 2 containers - one with pure IPA and one with clean water. Good lids that won't leak.
    
    
• 91% or 99% IPA for cleaning your build plate / resin vat / scraping tools / desk / etc. and for using in the print wash container. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ABPUGH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• More gloves: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CF49NJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 My palm width is about 3.6 inches / 9.2 cm and I bought the XL which fit ok.
  
  
• More paint strainers: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HQELZ7E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Better removal tools: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A81FXMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Also get some Xacto knives + extra blades + sand paper sheets in varying grit 300-400 count for smoothing off support marks. https://www.amazon.com/X-Acto-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Safety/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1527015690&sr=8-6&keywords=xacto+blade
  
  Try to find the flexible sand paper sheets that are meant to be hand-used. I found them in Loews 3m brand, this is the exact type of sheets i use: https://www.amazon.com/3M-COMPANY-28320SB-UF4-320G-Sandpaper/dp/B00PPD1CYA/ref=sr_1_7?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1527015867&sr=8-7&keywords=sandpaper+320+grit+3m
  
  
• Find a source for cheap paper towels. I use the real cheap paper towels that you find in bathrooms, the stuff that's really stiff and crappy. I don't use name brands such as Bounty or whatever because the higher quality kitchen paper towels leave behind bits of cloth dust, which is unwanted for cleaning the resin vat / build plate / LCD screen. You'll also go through shitloads of paper towels and the higher quality towels are a waste of money. https://imgur.com/7XeelfV
  
  
• Get a couple sunglasses cleaning cloths. Not the microfiber cloths with the consistency of a bathroom towel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009L77OXE/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B009L77OXE&pd_rd_wg=OcvWJ&pd_rd_r=3AAAFBB1202BXG3K8QN0&pd_rd_w=cwumx That's just an example - you can probly finder cheaper and better sized/quality towels such as: https://www.amazon.com/MagicFiber-Microfiber-Cleaning-Cloths-PACK/dp/B0050R67U0/ref=pd_bxgy_421_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0050R67U0&pd_rd_r=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ&pd_rd_w=0uPs5&pd_rd_wg=eAMNx&psc=1&refRID=PR868R09NE2DQCC8NBVQ
  
  I use these cloths on the LCD screen and the resin vat FEP sheet. After cleaning the resin vat FEP sheet and the LCD with paper towels, I give them a nice polish with the cleaning cloth to remove any other smudges or dust. Make sure to have a cloth dedicated to ONLY the LCD screen, as you want the keep the LCD screen pristine and free of dust and smudges.
  
  You'll also want a print curing station to harden the prints once they have been cleaned. I bought:
  
  
• A plastic cookie jar; clear plastic, round: https://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/store/product/oxo-good-grips-reg-3-piece-pop-canister-set/3262796?categoryId=12605
  
  
• UV LED Light Strip: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075ZQZDBR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  
• Heavy duty tape, such as duct tape or gorilla tape. I used black gorilla tape.
  
  
• Aluminum Foil
  
  

1. Wrap the LED strip around the plastic container to this effect: https://imgur.com/oB98Qxl . Make sure you wrap so that the power cable connector will be at the bottom of the container. Make sure you secure the beginning and the end of the LED strip to container with a piece of tape.
   
   
2. Wrap the LED'd container with aluminum foil - shiny side facing inward. Lay out a long piece of foil on the floor, shiny side facing up, just enough to cover the container's length once. Secure the beginning of the foil piece with a piece of tape, and then secure the end of the foil. Try to wrap without causing creases in the foil, keeping the foil as shiny and smooth as possible. Make sure your power cable plug in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   
3. Secure a piece of foil to the base, shiny side facing inward.
   
   
4. Secure a piece of foil to the lid, shiny side inward. Take a piece of tape and make a 2-sticky-sided loop to secure the foil. Make sure the foil is not interfering with the lid's ability to securely close.
   
   
5. Wrap the whole thing with your gorilla or duct tape. Make sure your power cable plug-in point is popping out and able to be plugged in.
   
   

Spray tip

I bought a Fujispray mini mite 3 with the gravity feed cup and I've been very pleased with it. The gun is easy to take apart and clean, and the pattern is nice. The first project I ever sprayed was the Game of Scones table I posted a few days ago and it came out quite well. I sprayed dye, sanding sealer, and General Finishes precat urethane through it. As a spray novice, I found it pretty intuitive to use and easy to go from no experience to spraying a paid job in a few hours.

Nope nope nope nope, polyshades is terrible, and minwax overall is pretty shitty and overpriced. You can get something like this and mix it into waterborne poly or mix a regular stain into oil based poly, then spray it on with something like this.

Well, the one it looks like costs more, but here is the one at op's price point.

Fuji Q5 Platinum. I have had mine for almost two years now, it’s awesome.

Fuji 3005-T70 Q5 Platinum Quiet HVLP Spray System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XQPN6CU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_v7FaAbK3Q4NZB

Thanks, looks very similar to this model: https://www.amazon.com/Graco-221315-Reversible-Airless-Spray/dp/B00NQU11HW

I used to have the same sprayer. Biggest problem with it was the lack of replacement parts. Ended up throwing it away because they didn’t have a repair kit for the priming valve. I would recommend stepping up to at least the X7 or one of the pro series sprayers with the tall stand so you can spray directly from a 5 gallon container.

Unfortunately, the one I own has been discontinued. And that's a shame. It was on sale at Home Depot for $110, and it kicks butt. I have run hundreds of gallons through mine (four renovations, painting inside and out) and it has never given me one tiny problem.

https://www.amazon.com/Ryobi-RAP200G-Airless-Sprayer-Station/dp/B00EUES4J6

Maybe they've got a new model to replace it.

Flavortext: My buddy and I love hiking, foqund a cool lake and decided we wanted to get a boat, some fishing rods, and add fishing and boating into our fun weekends. So she and her fiancee sweet talked the fiancee's dad into giving us his old 18-ft canoe since he does not use it anymore. Got the canoe, 2 beautiful wooden paddles, and some life vests.

The details: There are a couple decent-sized cracks that need repaired and the hull has a number of smaller cracks that might not be leaky now but could get worse in the future. So I'm researching how to repair it all and do a full recoat. The article I'm going off of is: https://www.familyhandyman.com/automotive/how-to-repair-fiberglass/

It appears I need (and the item I have found so far):
-Resin
TotalBoat Gelcoat (White, Quart with Wax) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00Q53C3NS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DONKDb0754A9Z

-Chop filler
Cabosil Filler, FUMED Silica White Powder thickener, 1 Gallon for epoxy Resin, Paint, Thickening Filler, Hydrophobic, Fishing Fly Floatant, Polyester Resin, Fiberglass Resin https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07PXXQ4N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_VQNKDbVPMJBNX

-Resin Thinner
Hi Bond Styrene Qt 701930 https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B002IV6LDO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3ONKDbAVBRDW4

-Pigment (optional but why not)
Light Blue Pigment for Epoxy Resin, Gelcoat, Paint, Latex - 4 oz https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0746MSGMR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uQNKDbN56RMSZ

-Disposable Sprayer
Preval 0227 227 Sprayer System, 11"x5.25"x4.25", Multicolored https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00NXNE6CO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hONKDb6BGQ8BK

Anyone have any thoughts on the product choices? Any recommendations for better products or suggestions?

I kind of feel like the guy is talking idealism rather than realism. Realistically, of all the reasons to use two airbrushes (detail/large area), durability of the needle is really just not a concern with a quality brush. Yes, the needle will erode over time. No, it won't erode so fast that needle durability should be part of the decision making process. I won't say this guy was trying to lead you to a bigger sale (although I kind of think he is), but I will say that if you're going to pick one brush for detail and another for area work, get a proper gun for it. This would be an example of a gun used specifically for area work:

https://www.amazon.ca/Iwata-W-101-Spray-Gun-Pc-5/dp/B00OA9OUV2/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1494702486&sr=8-11&keywords=iwata+airbrush+gun

If you know that you'll be making some of the really large aircraft or ships, maybe a second gun for area work is a good choice but again it's based on the convenience factor, not the durability factor. You might not want to base coat a 3 foot long aircraft carrier with a brush that barely manages a 0.5" diameter pattern.

If it were me making the decision, I would pick a good all-around brush and see how it performs and if I find that the large area work is a bit tedious, then I'd look at a second option. Not only would you then be deciding based on your experience (rather than the questionable advice of a shopkeeper) you'll also have a better idea of what that second airbrush should look like. Do you want just a bit more coverage (second needle or second brush with larger needle) or do you want to step up to something like what I linked that can really lay down the paint in a hurry?

Either way, I'd say you don't have to decide right now. It's hard to be unhappy with a quality all-purpose airbrush.

Powdercoating isn't too expensive, but I don't know if places will do such a small item. Probably cost too much for them to setup/use their equipment for a lil job.

You can buy this http://www.amazon.com/Eastwood-Powder-Coating-Voltage-Starter/dp/B002XE6HHG

and bake in a toaster oven.

Still about $200.

Might look at getting a Dura-coat kit or Cera-kote can for $25 or so. Really not hard to get an even finish, just hold your arm straight when you spray, in light coats.

I did my 870 pump in Dura-coat and was really pleased with the results for the price.

Hope that helps.

The car is a 2012 family owned Prius - it's nice enough that I would spend maybe 200 usd - or something like that. I have some wood projects that I think would look nicer if varnished with the gun - so ... might be worth getting acceptable quality

I'm working with 4.8 cfm at 40 psi. So I found this Iwata W101 with 1.3mm and 5.1 cfm at 35 psi - 200 usd ish. I see that it's quite respected for small jobs by pros, nice atomization.

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Or this SprayIt Kit, or Neiko- similar price range - that specs wise work well with the small compressor. Seeing youtube vids I see that they're not as even as Iwata (not bad, just not in the same class) and tend to form a bit of orange peel (or maybe the painter wasn't as skilled). I'm not an expert, just can't tell if these are crappy or acceptable good - good enough to forget the Iwata for 200 bucks.

For a while I was torn. I heard from this pro (see my other post) that you can spray diluted primer with a 1.3mm tip. So I thought that Iwata was everything I needed for a minimalist approach. Now that I sit on all these words I come to think I might want something like an Iwata for paint/clear and some SprayIt/Neiko gun for priming.

Wouldn't it be cheaper if you just bought the paint and the sprayer and do it yourself? Or is there something else I'm missing?

These simple HVLP guns work well but only if you follow the paint application and prep.

https://www.amazon.com/PowRyte-Elite-Composite-Gravity-Spray/dp/B01BEH75QY/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1510688187&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=hvlp&psc=1

A nozzle for some kind of foam/texture sprayer...
Final answer

Graco 17H575 TexSpray RTX 5000PI Texture Sprayer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FW2LUAE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aVm2Db23Z00E6

Not specifically that one but similar

If you're going to be decorating, do yourself a favour and [buy one of these.] (https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0518050-Control-Double-Sprayer/dp/B001JEPEES/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1467903132&sr=8-2&keywords=wagner+paint+sprayer) I've been decorating a new premises for my business lately, I've sprayed all the inside with various emulsions as well as all the new wooden cladding on the outside in acrylic eggshell. It's made it so, so much easier, neater and quicker. You still have to cut in by hand of course.

Just be sure to clean it religiously.

Also, say hi to your neighbours! If they seem nice, invite them over for a grill or something. Good relationships with neighbors can make a huge difference.

Hi guys,

I want to do some painting. Lots of painting.

In my house:

• most of the ceilings
  
  
• the living room
  
  
• kitchen
  
  
• both bathrooms
  
  
• two bedrooms
  
  
• a long hallway
  
  
• a few interior doors
  
  
• rear den/man-cave
  
  Outside:
  
  
• a short stucco wall that separates my neighbors' property and my own.
  
  I want to use a paint sprayer and hopefully use Behr Ultra Premium Plus (undiluted) where at all possible. My choices are the following sprayers:
  
  
• Wagner 0529010 Flexio 590 Indoor/Outdoor Hand-held Sprayer Kit
  
  
• Wagner 0518080 Control Spray Max HVLP Sprayer
  
  
• Wagner 0529029 Flexio 990 Direct Feed Sprayer
  
  
• Wagner 0529021 Flexio 890 HVLP Paint Sprayer Station
  
  
• Wagner 0529017 PaintReady Station Hvlp Paint Sprayer 0529017 PaintReady Station Hvlp Paint Sprayer
  
  Paint for ceiling(s):
  
  
• KILZ Color-Change Stainblocking Interior Ceiling Paint, White, 1-gallon
  
  Which should I get, given the scope of the work? I may choose to roll the ceilings (I hate rolling and I suck at it), but I want to spray everything else.

Yeah, powdercoating equipment costs a fortune

Graco Magnum 262805 X7 HiBoy Cart Airless Paint Sprayer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0026SSW8G/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_ODTwybWFWJYXM

That's what I got! It should save a bunch of time and allow us to easily paint the outside brick :)