(Part 2) Best small animal food according to redditors

This information could vary depending on where you live, as for the United States. Make sure you’re familiar with your local laws on ferrets and your landlords policy before you commit to anything.You’ll most likely come across Marshall ferrets if you’re getting from a pet store. You want to look for the double dot tattoo on their ear that indicates they’ve been descented and spayed/neutered. You should always have at least two ferrets because they’re social animals and get depressed alone. They’re very social and need someone to keep them company whenever you can’t. You really can’t take the place of a second ferret playmate because you cannot play like a ferret and there will be times when they are without you and you can’t cuddle up in their hammock with them lol I find females are easier to train but boys can be very sweet too. They do bite and that needs to be trained out of them. It’s a good idea to research some training techniques before hand so you’re prepared and can be consistent from the start. They relieve themselves in corners so that can be used to your advantage when potty training them. Some people use litter boxes with pellets (never kitty litter), personally I use weewee pads and secure them in place with tape. If they’re not secure they will run away with them and tear them up lol. They do poop a lot and you have to keep up with cleaning it up. They’re super smart and energetic so they need enrichment. Tunnels, ball pits, and toys are a must. They also need lots of out of the cage time (minimum of 4 hours a day but the more the better) if you can dedicate a ferret proof section of your house that is ideal, my ferrets have their own bedroom so they are never confined to a cage. If they are roaming in a non ferret proof room they need to be closely monitored because they can be seriously injured if they chew on a wire, get stepped on, knock over something glass, or get into food that would be toxic for a ferret etc. As far as cages go I recommend a ferret nation cage, the double doors makes cleaning it easier and it’s an appropriate size for a ferret. Wysong digestive support is a good food for them. Grizzly’s salmon oil too. Be careful when picking a food because they cannot have vegetables, grains, or soy and many leading pet food brands do have them. They are strictly carnivores and should never eat dairy, sugar, fruits, vegetables, or grains/breads. They need their ears cleaned once a week and their hammocks and beds need to be washed. The majority of their musky smell comes from their ears so keeping up with that will keep the smell under control. They don’t need baths very often, frequent baths could dry out their skin. Their nails also need to be clipped and this is better off done as a two person job so one person can scruff ( held up by the skin on the back of their neck like a cat would hold a kitten in her mouth) and the other person can clip the nails. Make sure you don’t clip too fair back or you could make them bleed. You can usually see the vein in their nail and avoid it but it is something you need to be careful about and don’t want to do if they’re squirming. Another tactic is to try it right after they’ve fallen asleep so they’re docile enough to let you do it. or you can rub some salmon oil on their tummy so that they’ll be distracted licking it off. Don’t use ferretvite/ferretone/vitamin pastes marketed towards ferrets it contains harmful ingredients (sugar) for ferrets. Keep styptic powder on hand in case of an accident. Their teeth also need to be cleaned. Constant access to fresh water in a bowl (not a bottle) is a must. Don’t leave the lights on for them, the dark is good for their melatonin regulation which helps prevent adrenal disease. I would also recommend keeping an empty emergency kennel above their cage in case of a fire or any other event that would need you to evacuate quickly. It’s also important to have a vet on hand. If you get a Marshall’s ferret they’re usually all taken care of medically before you adopt them but you still need to keep up with routine vaccinations and they are sensitive creatures and are prone so certain problems like insulinoma and adrenal disease, they are also very accident prone and you don’t want to wait until something is wrong to look for a vet. Most conventional cat/dog vets won’t see ferrets because they are considered exotic. You should also familiarize yourself with blockage protocol. They live up to 8 years and take a lot of time, energy, love, patience, and commitment. They are a long term commitment so make sure you’re up for it and your schedule allows for it before you adopt. Good luck :)

MidWest Deluxe Ferret Nation Double Unit Ferret Cage (Model 182) Includes 2 leak-Proof Pans, 2 Shelves, 3 Ramps w/Ramp Covers & 4 locking Wheel Casters, Measures 36" L x 25" W x 62.5" H Inches https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054U8UGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ENuCDb2RWR1V5

Wysong Ferret Epigen 90 Digestive Support - Dry Ferret Food, Four - 5 Pound Bags https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019W9VYPY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cOuCDb9EA300W

Grizzly Omega Health for Dogs & Cats, Wild Salmon Oil/Pollock Oil Omega-3 Blend https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074N97RFP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wOuCDbJGSXZ2Y

https://holisticferretforum.com/care-and-enrichment/common-behavior-problems/ferret-bite-training/

https://holisticferretforum.com/care-and-enrichment/common-behavior-problems/litterbox-boot-camp/

https://holisticferretforum.com/health/blockages/blockage-protocol/

https://holisticferretforum.com/care-and-enrichment/cages-and-bedding/464-2/ferret-litters/

https://docs.google.com/document/d/e/2PACX-1vTvMXyhwVBu5TLnYSvGhqJqr_vE_-x_1BADF7dPwatwlB9l--m02ZN23FqvPNqp3v-n5cJyOuSssVfn/pub?fbclid=IwAR1-YBxbLHkIRRgR9JgFZUD6zaxtOYq0W0dxfcpdEXUB51q8aHu2A3PZ_H0

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ps63TeKhcYB9L7YUxxBkGTjXQHSkGjVu/view?fbclid=IwAR2v0jT04d3cTa0Ixv3JUATp7wTTbv0WIwDaumJICWULdWhrMiF_7zmL_KM

This is basically the run down I send to all first time ferret parents on here but to also answer your specific questions 11 hours is okay as long as they have at least 4 hours out of the cage (the more the better though). Raw diet is good but anticipate varying stools. If you want easy and consistency I would go with kibble. I have a ferret proof room where there are no accessible wires but if you can’t provide that duct tape and zip ties are a good idea.
Here is a list with cost estimates https://www.reddit.com/r/ferrets/comments/ao29zy/the_cost_of_owning_ferrets_2019_edition/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

oh my god. I’m a rabbit mom and I understand your anxiety so hard. how do people not understand how fragile they are? JUST LOOK AT THEM!
I’m so sorry she’s being so selfish about this. I hate when people don’t do what’s best for pets, not only does it prolong their life but vet bills aren’t cheap. Caring for rabbits is hard, and when someone else doesn’t respect that hard work, it really sucks. I hope she starts listening to you soon - for your bun and your sake. <3

I have a few suggestions for tummy issues (I’ve fostered too many buns to count, dealt with GI many times), even though it seems like you know what you’re doing, I figure info can’t hurt.

1. Sherwood pellets - these pellets are so much healthier than any other I’ve found. I find that they help when their poops aren’t solid, rather than the opposite.
   
2. Have you tried telling your mom that she can give leafy greens? even make a cute lil salad to give a couple times a day? Parsley, spinach, lil bit of kale - I’m sure you know but just in case, here’s a good list of leafy greens .
   
3. Get some critical care in case the poops get less and less solid. Maybe if your mom sees you force feeding critical care, she’ll get why treats everyday are irresponsible pet care.

This is half decent hay... far from the best.

If you must buy the bagged hay - get oxbow instead as it is much better.

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However, the best hay does not come from bags in stores... One of the best hays is Small Pet Select - it's fantastic quality hay fresh, never brown, not dusty, without small bits... you can get a subscription at a lower price. It does cost a little more but if it helps you it's only a tiny difference in price that is worth it!

I would suggest you try the sample box here https://shop.smallpetselect.com/products/sampler-box. It is fresh an has a few different kinds of hay for him to try. I think he will like it and it's worth a try for sure. I know it costs more, but it truly is worth it if he eats it as in the long run the money you save on vet bills will be greater, and of course your bun’s health…

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Also, if you are adopting from a rescue inquire if you might be able to get fresh hay through them - often rescues sell hay and the profits benefit the bunnies, so it is a win win. :)

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I would start with 8 to 10 lbs and see how fast he goes through it.

Great, thank you for being such a good person and taking him in, that's a very admirable thing to do!

You seem to be intelligent and you're probably doing your own research. Good job on trying to find him a friend, I cannot stress how important that is, as you've probably read online.

The scared phase is typically just a phase in the beginning. He's in a new environment and he's afraid. Guinea pigs are prey, it's only natural for them to jump and run the second they see movement they're non-familiarized with.. even when it is familiar, they're not the brightest creatures in the world and can still overreact to slight movements. After this scared phase, which can really last from a couple days to a month, it depends on their personality. Some piggies can be chill and start wheeking whenever they see their owners, and others will simply run from them for the rest of their lives, even though they enjoy being cuddled once you finally get them in your hands. It's simply something you're going to have to go through, and don't take their fearfulness personally :)

What kind of dry food are you getting him, and what kind of hay? What type of water holder do you have? He may be unfamiliar with it. Keep giving him lettuce (not iceburg) if he'll eat it, but not too too much. 1 baby carrot a day and a little bit of green pepper should do the trick as well. Piggies are supposed to have a little salad every day. Here's a fantastic guide to what they can have and what quantities is recommended.

Regarding his bedding, the only way he'll stop being afraid of you is to see that there's nothing to be afraid of. It's okay to scare him, since he'll eventually learn that there's no reason to be scared. Just clean around him and provide him a little treat like a carrot and he'll eventually come around. My piggies run from me whenever I clean their cage, it's just apart of owning them.

I don't know if there will ever be a point where a piggie can "trust" you. I don't think they're capable of trust, though some have very relaxed personalities compared to others. Like I said, they're prey. They're built to not trust you. You can start touching and holding him whenever you'd like, though you know your piggie better than we do. If he's truly so afraid of you that you don't want to hold him, don't. If you think it's time, go for it, he'll run, but just grab his butt and give him a nice cuddle session. Don't wear any clothes you're fond of :)

Whats most important is that you get him a friend, a large cage (2x3 minimum for 2), and understand how to properly feed them. I highly recommend purchasing this hay (I know it may seem like 10lbs is a lot since your little guy is hardly eating, but you'll be shocked to see how much they eat normally), these pellets (I assume he's under 6 months old), and using these kind of water bottles. I also recommend buying fleece bedding, as you will save money and time cleaning in the long run.

Let me know if you have more questions!

This one is the best, it attaches to the side of the cage

Kaytee Gravity Bin Feeder with Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AS9OM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9.VNBbWCTPX7C

If you have trouble finding the apple, Oxbow makes a carrot in the same twisted timothy hay style: https://www.amazon.com/OXBOW-PRODUCTS-448009-Timothy-Carrot/dp/B005GZ3IK8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521921645&sr=8-3&keywords=oxbow+timothy+carrot

Sorry if this is rude, but I have a few concerns from this picture.

1. He needs a much larger cage, and a friend if he doesn't have one.
   
   
2. If that's pine or cedar bedding, you need to switch to either aspen, carefresh natural, or you can use old clothing over newspaper.
   
   
3. The wheel is entirely too small. If you want him to have one, among the best options is a 12" Wodent Wheel.
   
   
4. As for his diet, I highly recommend ordering Native Earth 4018 lab blocks. It's $40 for 40 lbs., and it's great for his health.
   
   With all that out of the way, I wish you the best with your new rat.

Hamster feed is another interesting topic to note. Most hamster food is supposedly full of stuff which is unhealthy for hamsters. Most people swear by oxbow hamster food.

My hamster hates pellet food, he leaves them untouched. So instead i got him something else. I ended up on this after i trying to look for something with enough variety to entertain him.

I am actually quite interested with what other people feed their small ones as its not immediately obvious to me.

My bun was SO stubborn and refused to eat his Timothy Hay. For years, he’d barely nibble on any of his hay. I got so nervous that he truly wasn’t getting enough of it (considering his diet should be majority of hay).

I began to give him a “orchard grass” hay. Bright green and he LOVES it. He’s never eaten so much hay in his life!!! I thank goodness I found this.

I’m attaching the link from amazon.
Try it — good luck!!! orchard grass hay link

Here is a good brand of pellets which is available on Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Oxbow-Cuisine-Guinea-Timothy-5-Pound/dp/B0013L2DSC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1411418135&sr=1-1&keywords=oxbow+guinea+pig+food

Try to find something like that!

Mine eat the orchard grass 10lb. https://www.amazon.com/GrandpaS-Best-Orchard-Grass-Bale/dp/B079QFGR84/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=grandpa's+best+hay&qid=1574636495&sr=8-4&utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

But it’s best if you order a Timothy Hay if that’s what your bun is used to. https://www.amazon.com/GrandpaS-Best-Timothy-Hay-Bale/dp/B079QHP7PL/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=grandpa's+best+hay&qid=1574636568&sr=8-2&th=1&psc=1&utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

As for Chewy, i’d contact their customer service and ask for a refund. I’d be super upset if that’s what I got.

You can order them on Amazon (no sh_t).

I'd get rid of that wooden bottom, try coroplast (like they use on guinea pig cages), it's a plastic you can wipe down if accidents happen and it would absorb smells like the wood. What kind of litter are you using in their cage/litter box?

Small pet select select these lovely herbal blend treats. They smell like fantastic potpourri and the buns can eat them.

https://www.amazon.com/Small-Pet-Select-Flower-Herbal/dp/B01FGJS18W/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523907925&sr=8-4&keywords=small+pet+select+herbal

I kept it in a little dish by my bunnies' cage and it was really nice. I wouldn't use essential oils, bunnies have sensitive respiratory tracts.

Are you any good at keeping rosemary plants? Those smell nice and buns can eat those.

My guy did that with Oxbow, which he had only been given by me. He just refused to eat it one day and dumped it all out of his bowl. Switched to Mazuri and he did fine for a couple of months, and started again.

I tried [Science Selective](Supreme Petfoods Science Selective Chinchilla Food, 4 Lb 6 Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01BHVDS9A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_tx0DDb9WW2D3F) and haven't had any problems for 4 months now. His bowl is empty when I get home from work, so he's eating it.

1. Use Oxbow adult guinea pig food (this stuff-- https://www.amazon.com/Oxbow-Essentials-Guinea-Timothy-5-Pound/dp/B0013L2DSC ). The dried fruit isn't good for them. At the very least, you should pick out everything but plain pellets. They might be picky about it at first, but that's fine. You can mix the two (sans junk) for a week or so, and strictly speaking, guinea pigs don't NEED pellets. They need timothy or orchard grass hay 24/7 though. The cheapest place to get it will be at a tack store for horses if they sell by the flake, but pet stores will have it.
   
   1b) Each pig should get 1/8 cup i.e. 2 TB of plain pellets a day, plus 1 cup of veggies. Romaine lettuce, cilantro, and green bell pepper make a perfectly fine dinner.
   
   1c) They need the veggies for vitamin C. You can also give them Oxbow vitamin C tabs or Child Life's Vitamin C (they'll drink it out of an eyedropper). Never put liquid Vitamin C in their water.
   
   
2. I'd put them in the C&C as soon as it's ready. You're not going to screw up your relationship with them in the first few days by moving them once, and a big cage will be good for them. For boars, try to give them 2 of everything -- water bottles, food bowls, hides, etc.
   
   
3. How dirty are they? I'd do the nail trims soon because you don't want their nails making it hard for them to walk. The baths, unless they're matted, can probably wait. (I like to do them when it's really warm outside; use a gentle shampoo like EarthBath hypoallergenic cat shampoo. Any unscented cat or rabbit shampoo should be fine). But as long as you make sure they don't get cold you can do it anytime. It will be upsetting and scary for them but if they're a real mess it likely needs to be taken care of.
   
   Good luck with your new friends!

My piggy's food isn't in form of pellets but rather a dry food that looks like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Vitakraft-Guinea-Fiber-Timothy-Formula/dp/B01BLGAIQM

Is it okay to crush this instead of pellets and mix it water and feed him?

Howdy! First off, let me thank you for doing research before you pick up your rodent friend.

First off let me get the disclaimers out of the way: If you were looking for a cheap pet, you have chosen the wrong animal. Rats have a fairly high upfront cost that begins to taper down after the first 3 months or so once the major growth period is over with. Almost any attempt to cut costs on things I'll bring up as essentials is most likely going to end up as a bad move in terms of your pet's health. There are lots of places to save some money, but what I'll lay out here is not the place. Rats are also a very short lived pet. They will live for a reasonable maximum of 3 years, so there will be heartbreak down the road.

Still interested? Good. Let's get a list going then:

1. Rats must be kept in a group. A pair is the minimum, three or more is better. Rats are VERY social animals, and need near constant interaction for other rats to stay healthy. This isn't just about mental health either; a lone rat is more prone to infections, tumors, and mental disabilities including aggression. Keeping multiple rats is no more expensive than keeping a single rat.
   
   
2. When looking for a cage, aim for 2 sq. feet per rat. Use this cage calculator to see if your cage is big enough. Watch your bar spacing! Rats are master escape artists, so make sure that the bars won't bend, and that you have 1/2" inch bar spacing or less. Popular starter cages include the Critter Nation Single or the Prevue Hendryx Rat/Chinchilla Cage. The Critter Nation is the most popular rat cage by far, but I can vouch for the Prevue Hendryx as easy to clean and set up.
   
   
3. Food can get pretty complicated for a first time owner, so I'll just offer easy suggestions. Feed Mazuri , Native Earth , or Oxbow. Oxbow is the most popular and most balanced, but tends to be the most expensive in smaller bags. In bulk, (20+ pound bags) the price is all about the same. I buy large bags because it's cheaper per pound and I never worry about running out. Then again I have 5 rats, so my situation is different than yours!
   
   
4. Lots of toys and hiding places! This is where you can save money by getting creative. Store bought rat toys can get expensive, but cardboard tubes and boxes are often free! Have one hiding place per rat plus one, preferably on different levels of the cage. Hammocks are a favorite hide for rats, as are boxes, bags, and tubes. If you want to get some store bought stuff, see if you have a bird shop in your area. Almost every toy in there that is safe for birds is going to be a blast for your rats.
   
   
5. Find a vet that is comfortable with rats. Rats don't need shots or regular flea treatments, so finding a vet can seem odd. But eventually, something will go wrong, or one of your babies will fall ill. Having a vet who's experienced with rats or at the very least willing to learn is a godsend. I'm very lucky to have a vet that is familiar with and loves rats. Because of their size and common problems, rat visits are usually very cheap when compared to a dog or a cat. I spend no more than $45 when Juniper or Sugar have a myco flareup.
   
   
6. Don't stop researching. Subscribe to this sub. Check the side bar. Ask questions. (Feel free to PM me, I'll help you as much as I can..) Watch videos on YouTube, like The Rat Guru. Rats are a very "addictive" pet, and it's easy to fall into an obsession with the cute little boogers.
   
   
7. Post pictures when you get them.

My pig Twix is 3 months old and have been wanting to switch over to oxbow. Would the aforementioned food be ideal for her or would something like this be more optimal? - Oxbow Cavy Performance Young Guinea Pig (Alfalfa Based), 5-Pound Bag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00494HSP8/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_G1mHub1G2BZ5E

You seem to be confused. Rabbits eat timothy hay, not Colin Hay

I have a hay carrot (Oxbow PET Products 448009 Timothy Carrot for Pets https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005GZ3IK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_N0i7CbEFJRXX8)

and this cool hay block (Kaytee Alfalfa Cubes, 15-oz bag (2 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072JPP7V7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TZi7Cb13D4JT3)

And some random wicker toys

Veggies are important, but don't worry too much if you can't get your rabbit to eat them. Just make sure you're using a very high quality pellet. I've done some nutritional research and I've found the best brands for healthy rabbits are: Sherwood Adult Rabbit Food and Supreme Selective. Oxbow pellets are more widely available and highest quality you can get in stores but they tend to be a little high in protein imo.

Also, you can try rubbing strawberry slices over the top of lettuce leaves to trick your bun into taking a nibble.

Don't leave any fresh fruit or veg in the cage that you will not be there to monitor. It will need to be removed if it is not eaten so that they don't get sick.

I would suggest getting a bin feeder and a 32oz water bottle. They should also have tons of hay in their cage.