Best soldering extraction tools according to redditors
We found 21 Reddit comments discussing the best soldering extraction tools. We ranked the 9 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 21 Reddit comments discussing the best soldering extraction tools. We ranked the 9 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Hot tip for removing DIP ICs: https://www.amazon.com/a13032100ux0040-Anti-Static-Motherboard-Circuit-Extractor/dp/B00CQI99K6/
https://smile.amazon.com/F-Connector-Installation-Removal-Tool/dp/B000G7ZGNI?sa-no-redirect=1
https://smile.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-VDV312-012-SEN-Cushion-Grip-F-Connector/dp/B002MSJMWK/ref=pd_sim_469_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=NF1RKQ8N4CG31CGMG73E
Be careful not to over tighten.
[That looks like my Apple ][ plus!](http://i.imgur.com/wAx5M.jpg) I've got the same memory card too. I just restored mine in the summer of 2013. Mine booted, but the keyboard decoder was shot, a bunch of keys were busted, and one of the memory chips was bad. The first thing I woulI would recommend you reseat all the chips. Get yourself a good chip puller like this one, don't use a screwdriver, or a puller that looks like this (these are junk).
This maybe, or this. I spent no more than that on mine and it's seen me through 6 builds/rebuilds so far, and it's still working.
A proper soldering station is nice, but you can definitely get by with cheap stuff, especially if you don't plan on using it a ton.
I've found that eliminating layer lines isn't too important if you go down to .08mm; the big issue is that overhangs and drooping on fine details can be a killer that overshadows the smooth surfaces. A few tools I've found handy:
Get a good round scalpel handle and a pack of carbon steel 15C scalpel blades. They'll be your go-to for nicking out tiny little stray globs and trimming plastic. Way more precise and durable than X-Acto or hobby knives.
Then get a set of diamond mini-needle files — they'll be useful for smoothing rough spots. Diamond grit may seem like overkill for PLA, but the fine texture of the grit is what matters: it won't leave your models ragged and with care you can actually restore detail that's lost to droopy overhangs, etc.
Finally, get a sharp-edged "soldering pick" and use the needle files to sharpen it to a nice sharp edge. It'll be your go-to for levering out bits of support, and picking away at larger globs of plastic. If you ever find that the scalpel blade bends while you're trying to clean up a defect, go to the soldering pick.
Buy your friend one of these for fixing your board.
Try a search for pen size vacuum on Amazon. Don't know if it will work, but they are not too expensive. (https://smile.amazon.com/Suction-L611938-Precision-Component-Placement/dp/B07KV17Q61/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=pen+vacuum&qid=1551237915&s=gateway&sr=8-7)
hammer this in there, use a wrench or ratchet to remove the entire thing whole. Wont snap like an ez out and will grip like no other
https://www.amazon.com/Inside-Nipple-Extractor-Extracting-Removal/dp/B01FOQK22U
I use both needle and snub nose pliers. Also tend to use a soldering tool to poke and break then loose. These aren't the exact ones, but the angle and the point both come in handy. https://www.amazon.com/JacobsParts-Professional-Solder-Assist-Accessory/dp/B00PQYCZPI/
This is the tool you need.
Radioshack has them for about 5 bucks.
>Copy pasta'ed from my post a few months ago:
After doing some research, here are my top 3 budget soldering iron options. Thoughts?
My $4 Harbour Freight iron's tip is dissolving, and it's time I got a new iron. I don't solder super often, maybe a handful of times a month, so I can't really justify getting a nice $40 Weller soldering station. My budget is around $30. After doing some Google-Fu, and browsing through Amazon and Ebay, here are my top 3 budget choices:
I'm open to suggestions, comments, and questions regarding these choices. The Sywon Soldering Iron kit has nothing I really care about over the Vastar one, aside from a slightly nicer stand and sponge, and of course the carrying case. The Aoyue 469, being the only soldering station on the list, doesn't come with any flashy accessories unfortunately. A solder sucker would be nice, and I'll probably be glad of the extra tips that are included wit the two kit irons. However, if you guys think that the Aoyue 469 soldering station would be better quality, I might be willing to shell out a few bucks more for it, and pick up another tip or two.
https://www.reddit.com/r/Nerf/comments/8bugth/after_doing_some_research_here_are_my_top_3/
Oboy, I'm probably the wrong person to ask. However, /u/BriThePiGuy recommends Joe Knows Electronics boxes, and /u/NeoMarxismIsEvil recommends the following:
> I would order some cheap assortment kits from people on aliexpress. These are the sort that come with like 10 of most common values of resistor, capacitor, etc.
> Other stuff:
> - WeMos d1 mini or mini pro
> - small i2c OLED displays
> - small LCD display
> - tacswitches (buttons)
> - SPDT switches
> - 74HC595 and 74HC165 shift registers
> - either bidirectional logic level shifter modules or mosfets and resistors needed to make them
> - 7 segment led displays (individual)
> - 8x8 led matrices
> - various environmental and physics sensors (often come as a kit of 20+ different modules)
> - extra breadboards
> - jumper wires
> - male and female header strips (for modules that lack pins)
> - cheap breadboard power supplies
> - voltage regulators (both LDO ICs and buck converter)
> - possibly some 4xAA or 4xAAA battery holders
> - trim pot assortment
> Those are just ideas. Some things like 7 seg led digits are pretty cheap and worth having a few of but not terribly important if you have a real display of some sort.
I personally like the assortment of bits I got in my Sparkfun Inventor's Kit, but found that I wanted more of the following:
I was able to complete my mod myself without doing any microsoldering before in my life - it was stressful, but not that difficult. I used these tools and followed Louis Rossmann's video:
https://www.amazon.com/Sywon-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Desoldering/dp/B01E1ISGH0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503839179&sr=8-3&keywords=solder+kit
https://www.amazon.com/AMTECH-Solder-Flux-NC-559-V2-TF-16160/dp/B01DR62IYO/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1503839306&sr=1-1&keywords=amtech+nc-559-v2+tacky+flux
Just search for Soldering kits on Amazon, there are many. One feature you want is to be able to adjust the soldering iron's heat level. (Example: https://www.amazon.com/Sywon-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-Desoldering/dp/B01E1ISGH0/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1482397099&sr=1-6&keywords=Soldering+Kit)
YouTube has TONS of soldering videos. (Example: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BxASFu19bLU).
You also might want to look into some of the more elaborate Raspberry Pi kits, they typically come with a bread board for circuit prototyping as well as a bunch of extra goodies like a Pi Camera module, Arduino boards, etc... (Example: https://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-Modules-Sensor-Raspberry-Extension/dp/B014PF05ZA/ref=sr_1_13?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1482396929&sr=1-13&keywords=Raspberry+Pi+3)
With such a kit, you'll be able to explore a ton of the Pi's functionality.
Boom. Same here. Only bought it to solder 2 keyboards and it did it's job just fine.
This kit comes with a desoldering vacuum pump. Usually these pumps are not recommended except in emergencies, because you have to heat the solder up enough with the soldering iron tip instead of a desoldering iron which fits nicely around the work, but I did use that pump successfully to remove MX switches.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1ISGH0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Not too expensive, comes with solder and some other useful stuff. If you don't want to spend big bucks on a Hakko, you can start with this.
You can if you prefer, most times I just use a watchmaker's screwdriver, but I also have one of these for hard to reach chips.
Same thing happened to me with a cheap soldering iron kit. I just bought better tips to use as replacements. Did you see a flat metal core in the tip after the other metal wore away?
What happens is the chrome plating on the tip wears out, and under that the metal reacts with solder? and basically dissolves. Not your fault, it's just a cheap tip. Here are some hints for tips:
Mine is similar but has flux in the bottom. I stuff the hot iron in the flux, then wipe it on the brass shavings. Brass is softer than the tip so the tip won't get the chrome layer scratched off. I got this kit and it comes with a tin can of flux at the bottom with a brass "sponge" on top. This is what I used.
Call the mobo manufacturer. They can ship you a new BIOS chip for free or very low cost. I have done this many times. Usually they don't even charge me for it even if it's out of warranty. You will have to buy or improvise a "chip puller", "chip extractor", "IC puller", or "IC extractor". It's basically a little grabby thing that allows you to pull the chip out. You can usually shimmy it out with a screwdriver as well, although I don't recommend that as you can accidentally bend pins that way.
Most BIOS chips are removable these days. So you just get the new chip from the mobo manufacturer, pull the old one out and put the new one in.
edit: this is one kind of chip puller, looks a little big for a BIOS chip though