(Part 2) Best terrarium heat lamps & mats according to redditors

I really hope that child is never left alone with an animal or another child. At least not till he's been through some very rigorous psychological evaluations. Your story is heart-breaking.

I don't know much about rat physiology, but if he's been hanged and almost drowned he may have suffered oxygen deprivation and now have mental damage, in addition to all the emotional damage. I say this only as a caution when introducing him to other rats. You should definitely see if he'd like company though I imagine he'll be very timid and cautious at first, even with another rat. But in addition to the previous comments you should watch for limits on his capacity as a result of the oxygen deprivation.

You could also give him a heating pad. It was mentioned here a few weeks ago as a good thing for sick ratties, but it might be very comforting for him to have something warm but less scary than another rat to snuggle with.

I just added a digital temperature controller to an old analog AC, and now I'm really starting to get my grow room temps and humidity dialed in.

Here's the one I got
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Thermostat-Homebrewing/dp/B07K8MBLSQ


Oh and having an RO filter at home has made life way easier. No more lugging $1 gallons of distilled from the grocery store, now I have unlimited RO and it's only pennies a gallon.

I am currently using a UVA/UVB pair of bulbs, but will upgrade to a single florescent bulb soon. What I believe they were referring to is this. It provides a bit more UVA and heat. For my UVB, I have a CFL 5.0 bulb. The combo is OK, but it still "beams" light just a bit too hard. I know how to prevent burns with this setup, so it's totally fine for now.

70F is on the lower end so no less than that. Outside temperature has little effect on what spectrum of light is being put out by the sun, however. As long as its not too cold, the Cham will benefit from getting full-spectrum and natural lighting. (For those paying attention, yes. The lighting spectrum does change through the seasons, but it's only a thing for photosensitive plants.. Not necessarily animals.)

thanks for your help!

i really tried cleaning that filth of, and i already cleaned a lot of! but the thing is, its really hard. i wasnt successful with a toothbrush, so i used a sponge... i thought, with the clean water, it will get better over the time. i also read somewhere thats its fine for mud turtles to be covered like this, since the spend so little time with sunbathing.

i dont have to possibilty to use such a powerful bulbs, i just bought a lamp ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0016BOYZ4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) that can use max 26 watt bulbs. any alternativs?

What about a heat lamp instead? i had one for my budgie as she was prone to chills and she loved it

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https://www.amazon.ca/CTKcom-Reptiles-Aquarium-Adjustable-110V-130V/dp/B07F5954R9/ref=sr_1_11?gclid=Cj0KCQjw8svsBRDqARIsAHKVyqHJg9YeeFb_V3Zi-cmW2MAvoI3g8g-1YYxcIYsR_1-O2fcOhicD-y8aAmNmEALw_wcB&hvadid=229963260944&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9000101&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1t1&hvqmt=e&hvrand=10662165296961429145&hvtargid=aud-748919244907%3Akwd-306476886930&hydadcr=27177_10621418&keywords=heat+lamp+for+pets&qid=1569937809&sr=8-11

They're all live 👍
[The exact one I have ]https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KN1BF22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7e9YCbDA4347Q)

The first time I tried this I went with this:
Osram Vitalux 220v 300W bulb

It is rather hard to get in the US. Same reason we have to buy it as a "reptile bulb". That one in Europe is actually marketed for human use and is what gave me this idea. Then I realized the reptile bulbs have the same parameters.

That bulb is very hot, and quite intense.

Looking on Amazon there are a bunch that seem to have the right specs and are quite cheap. Since they get super hot, make sure you have a fixture that can take it. Depending on how you intend to use it you might want multiple bulbs. 1 bulb will not get you full body coverage. This is great for passive vitamin D production, but tricky to use it for an even tan. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CXJMRMP/ref=twister_B07CXLWZ87?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Just remember that over 4 feet you probably get 0 benefit. The bulbs work best close proximity. The effect will vary based on your skin pigmentation, ethnicity, etc....

TANK + HUMIDITY- I think the tank is fine, I have my baby in a tank with a fogger that is set with a hydrotherm humidity and temp control. That mixed with a substrate that locks in moisture is perfect. Just dampen some paper towel and put on little less than half of the screen will help lock the moisture.

SUBSTRATE- looking at the one you have now is good, or if you want somthing more interesting what I do is mix coconut fiber with forest floor to get different textures for my snake. Not needed but always good. They both come in attached bags as a bundle. (Do boil before using to get rid of any bacteria)

LIGHTS- It is winter where I am so the days are ridiculously shorter. So a UBV light is necessary (for winter) to get the day/night cycle regular. Otherwise if they have some light in the room naturally lit by a window it will be ok with just that. But keep in mind it is winter if that affects the sun where you are.

HEATING- bottom tank heaters are a MUST and a Thermostat for them are a MUST. Bottom tank heaters get extremely hot and can burn your snake, set it to 90 degrees. Having digital thermometers at each end of the tank is a very good idea to know the thermal gradient. Ball pythons need a 80 degree ambient temp, if you find it hard to reach I'd get a ceramic bulb attached to a thermostat to insure its reached. A timer will be needed to turn it down at night for night cycles. A temp gun is also really handy if you cant figure out what the temps really are.

COMFORT/DECOR- It looks a little sparce in there, adding clutter such as branches or leaves with make moving around more comfortable and fun for your noodle.

BRANDS I USE AND TRUST.

Reptifogger-
https://www.chewy.com/zoo-med-reptile-fogger-terrarium/dp/154856?utm_source=google-product&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=hg&utm_content=Zoo%20Med&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtP_iBRDGARIsAEWJA8gsbQwYjXS0TPoY4HEuda3Nojf1_kQ04L5T9TcQxR8aLUwnAk4UzzsaAgmzEALw_wcB

Thermostat-
https://express.google.com/u/0/product/2421032572734622130_17130946698352747625_1218855?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=tu_cu&utm_content=eid-lsjeuxoeqt&gtim=CMLV2q3mltjfuAEQmo2BpKjnmbn1ARiwq-8MIgNVU0QogNS34wUwp7JK&utm_campaign=1218855&gclid=Cj0KCQiAtP_iBRDGARIsAEWJA8gIg15q_VYFwOIY9ak6TMwGVU4WmH5a23XbLeya7j8yzRVd5DdWI3IaAvPdEALw_wcB

Thermostat with timer-
https://www.amazon.com/Creepet-Thermostat-Temperature-Controller-Germination/dp/B07L5DX88S/ref=asc_df_B07L5DX88S/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309839853592&hvpos=1o10&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8862487564019235064&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019054&hvtargid=pla-625334679725&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60444697623&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=309839853592&hvpos=1o10&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8862487564019235064&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9019054&hvtargid=

No one is a true expert so do plenty of research of theres too many comments saying different things. I have opinions based on experience so I may be wrong on some things. I'm still learning everyday and it's a cool thing. :) good luck!

This is very nice of you.

If you don't mind spending about $25, this is an excellent heating pad: http://amzn.com/B009P93TWI.

It doesn't need batteries or a power source, it's heated in the microwave and stays warm till the morning. You could leave it out in the shelter you made, the cat will thank you.

Of course, if he/she isn't fixed, you might find it having kittens in the very box!

Exo Terra sells a heat lamp and mount
7 inch lamp housing
bracket
The lamp housing supports up to a 150w bulb
And you might want to regulate it with a rheostat
Checking temps regularly with a temp gun

Or you can use a thermostat with the probe on the hot side to regulate the CHE, but I've heard of snakes moving them causing temps to drop or climb, depending.

In my opinion it doesn't particularly matter what kind of basking bulb you use so long as there is plenty of dark refuge to get out of the light and the temperature doesn't get too hot.

The ExoTerra Intense basking spot just has reflectors inside the bulb to direct almost all of the light and heat output down. with the regular daytime basking bulb, the lamp's dome will direct heat downward but some will be lost on the sides of the external reflector. The intense bulbs are just to make a more focused beam of light for something like a bearded dragon or other desert species that likes intense light as a heat source. Chameleon's don't need it and it can burn them fairly easily if you're not careful. It might be a good idea to swap. Incandescent lamps (like household lights or the usual non-spotlight basking bulbs) die on me constantly, so I prefer halogen lamps. They are slightly more expensive to set up, but are a little more energy efficient, have cheaper individual bulbs, and last much longer.

If you're getting a young chameleon (sub-adult or late adolescence) I would recommend building a variable basking perch that gives it a 3 dimensional space in which to bask. If it can get closer or further from the heat lamp while still being in the light itself it will be able to get real hot or stay cooler without risking burns or needing a trial-and-error approach on your part to figure out the proper distance. The picture shows a flat horizontal stick coming from the left behind the leaves, a stick sticking up much higher that that comes from the middle of the cage where the ivy is thickest, and a stick that slopes down to the rear of the cage. My chameleon Pasquale loves being able to climb up on the higher stick to get really hot (~98^o), stay comfy and warm on the level perch (~87^o) or climb down the slope a little to get to a cooler basking perch (~83^o). In a young chameleon this will help "teach" thermoregulation (the ability to regulate internal body temperature by moving into and out of a basking area) because the young ones are too "dumb" to move when it gets too hot if they're too close to the bulb.

Lighting doesn't need to be ramped up like, for example, a coral reef aquarium does. The light snapping on and off shouldn't hurt anything. Environment matters, but you're not making a literal recreation of the natural habitat (unless that's just your thing) so it doesn't need to be painfully exact.

The Reptile 200 bulbs are meant for "reptiles with very high UV requirements," according to ExoTerra's website, and I agree. Not only is the UVB output excessive for a chameleon (which can harm the eyes over time), but their highest ultraviolet output type is UVA (3 spikes between ~350nm-400nm on this graph). UVA is not good at all because it is actively harmful to everything it touches. UVA is what gives you sunburns, and it can do the same to reptiles. UVB (the sloping spike around ~300nm on the above graph) is what stimulates D3 synthesis. I personally recommend Arcadia's UVB bulbs. They're more expensive than most other bulbs I've seen and I have no idea where to find their CFL bulbs (I use tube lights), but in my experience they are the best around.

I don't see anything wrong with using the reptile vision bulb at all times, really. It's just a light that has a spectrum that's more visible to the chameleon. Shouldn't really affect much.

You shouldn't need any light at night (those are usually for geckos, which are nocturnal and need some artificial "moonlight", or for heating snakes, who don't do well with under-tank heaters - though they can use ceramic heaters that don't glow at all if that's a concern.) You need ultra-violet reptile lights, because without UV, your beardie (and you for that matter) can't process vitamin D. Without vitamin D, you can't take in new calcium - which is necessary for things like bones and moving muscles. Including the heart. Obviously if your lizard runs out out, he dies. So the body begins scavenging it from the bones to keep your animal alive, and winding down metabolic activity to keep you from dying until he can get into the sunlight again. It can lead to nerve, joint, and bone damage even if corrected - and death, if it isn't.

But that only needs to be on during the day, just like the sun (which is their natural source of UV.) Sunlight through the window or tank won't work, btw, because the glass blocks UV. If you decide to take him outside for natural exposure, be careful - insects in your yard may contain bug poisons if you, your parents, your neighbors, etc. use chemicals on the lawn. Also - from unfortunate experience - bearded dragons love lightning bugs, but they are lethal to them.

I like the mercury-vapor style lights like this, because as long a they are working, they put out UV (which is usually one to several years.) If those are too hot to have in your room, they also have compact florescent like this - but they will provide light for years while only providing UV light for six months to a year, and then must be replaced even if they're still providing normal light.

Make sure to size the wattage correctly for your tank to keep the temperature correct! You ought to get a thermometer (or two - for the hot spot and the cold spots in the tank) to be sure your animal can properly regulate it's temperature - it needs to be able to move to warm and cold spots to warm itself up and cool itself off.

And check your vitamin mix - you'll need two, a general supplement, and vitamin D. Find out which you have, and get the other. Alternate which one you use each time.

I'd be careful trying to pack too many hot things into a small shelf space.

That said, they do have small halogen heat lamps which could work. I have not used these, but I'd guess a 50w bulb would put out probably half to two-thirds the heat of a 50w ceramic heater.

Still I would still monitor the temps above the tank for the first few days to make sure it isn't getting too much above 100F ambient in that cabinet space, and if it is, rig up a computer fan or something to keep air circulating around those bulbs, otherwise it's asking for reduced bulb life in the best scenario, or a fire hazard in the worse one.

Ceramic heater bulb (type into amazon, produce no light and only heat) and get an 8.5” dome that’s dimmable (I ordered the flukers brand for $12 on amazon). This will allow you to use a 75 or 100w bulb and adjust it just right for him. It keeps my cage ~85 degrees. I had the issue with my baby beardie and that helps him stay cozy!

Edit: the products that I ordered for my set up!

Bulbs:
Wuhostam 100W 2 Pack Infrared Ceramic Heat Lamp,Black Reptile Emitter Bulb for Pet Coop Heater Chicken Lizard Turtle Brooder Aquarium Snake No Harm No Light ETL Listed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MXD4SMW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mb3ADbCNAP3EB

Fixture:
Fluker's Repta-Clamp Lamp 8.5-Inch Ceramic with Dimmable Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003H200QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_jc3ADbT4HGZ0A

When my girl Wampa was getting old, I put her in a 1-level habitat (she fell in the regular 3-level and hurt her hindquarters) with a plastic bottom. Then I got an under-tank heater that's actually for reptiles, and put it underneath half the habitat so she could have a heated floor, but also move away to the unheated side if she got too warm. (It was important to have something that could be underneath the outside of her old-lady cage because she was definitely a chewer.) She loved it and almost never left the heated side.

Almost exactly like this: https://www.amazon.com/Leo-Terra-Reptile-Reptiles-Tortoise/dp/B07P8XG79M/

Assuming your tank dimensions are 48 1/4 x 12 3/4 x 16 7/8 (L x W x H), you’ll be one that is as close to 16 x 12 as possible.

This Fluker’s brand is $26 and 17 x 11:
Fluker's Heat Mat for Reptiles and Small Animals, Large (17 x 11 Inches, 20 watt) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00164PW9S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JQHQBb6SYFDG4

This one is a bit cheaper at $22 and 20 x 8:
Zilla Reptile Terrarium Heat Mats, Large, 24 Watt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002Z5O9IW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_kPHQBbKV4TKVP

Also, don’t forget a regulator so you don’t overcook your Leo! They are absolutely necessary in my opinion. This is the one I have personally:
Jump Start MTPRTC Digital Controller Thermostat For Heat Mats, Seed Germination, Reptiles and Brewing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NZZG3S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_gMvIYsOQnXKH1


These are not affiliate links; I’m not being paid. We also have an amazing guide pinned to the top of this subreddit that you should check to make sure you’re not missing anything.

> no light reptile heater

https://smile.amazon.com/Wuhostam-Infrared-Ceramic-Reptile-Aquarium/dp/B07MHXK4QH/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=no+light+reptile+heater&qid=1551043043&s=gateway&sr=8-8

Let me be clear that I don't use one of these, I'm just assuming they'd be safer than other heating alternatives due to the lower wattage and intended use with live animals.

I have a similar issue. I'm thinking about getting one of ceramic reptile heaters, something similar to this https://www.amazon.com/MD-Lighting-Infrared-Amphibian-Tortoise/dp/B07KG3ZPVB

Anyone have any idea what kind of wattage would be required to raise a fridge by about 5 degrees?

I had a similar issue and solved it by using a lamp stand/hanger.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D58KL8D/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_zxc3DbJXBSCWP

Would this bulb work? Here’s the link to it. Zacro 60W Reptile Heat Lamp with One Digital Thermometer, Infrared Ceramic Heating Non-Light Lamps Emitter 110V (Black) (60W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HQLSTQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cRFTDbPY46TA8

Like, would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Labs-Ceramic-Emitter/dp/B01KVC3I6Y/ref=sr_1_12?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1505422934&sr=1-12&keywords=Ceramic+Heat+Emitter

I have this hood...2 of them actually...

https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Compact-Incandescent-Fixture/dp/B0016BOYZ4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505423027&sr=8-1&keywords=exo+terra+compact+top

K&H Pet Products Thermo-Peep Heated Pad Tan 9" x 12" 25W
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JHK375E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GplXBbVN1RY9R

It would work, however you would want something like this, that has a ethanol compatible glass lid, stainless steel body, and an acceptable compatibility with the silicone sealing gasket.

A ethanol compatible hose would be necessary imo, as rubber will leach into the ethanol. Add a appropriate adapter like this with this , add a few wraps of ptfe plumbing tape on the threads to seal well. Small length of ptfe 3/8” tubing can be placed on the barb tip, wrap with ptfe tape if too loose or heat with a heat gun/blow dryer if too tight to fit.

You then can attach this tubing to your cold trap using the appropriate glass on glass vacuum adapter barb and some heat as ptfe is not flexible cold. That chamber and parts I listed will give you an ethanol compatible vapor path and won’t leach chemicals into your solvent, but make sure clean all parts for any oil/residues before use. I’d also recommend a ptfe diaphragm vacuum pump as some vapors may make it past the trap.

Oh and a small animal heating pad works well with a vac chamber and will handle 24/7 use no problem. You will need to gently sand the surface flat for proper contact with a vac oven though.

Scroll to the bottom and "Add all three to cart"

If it's that insanely cold inside I would use a 100w CHE in conjunction with 11 inch heat tape spanning the length of the bottom of the tank, possibly two strips side by side, controlled by a reptile thermostat with a temperature probe taped down in the tank directly over the heat tape on the bottom. That way you have a safe sustained temperature throughout the tank and the CHE can be used by your bearded dragon to effectively thermoregulate himself without needing to worry about cold spots.

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Heat Tape

Heat Tape Power Cord

Thermostat for the Heat Tape

I had a spare reptile heat mat and it works as a perfect decoy. No more sleeping on my new 4K tv!