(Part 3) Top products from r/CableManagement

The coolers I'am using is a H75 for both and the kraken g10 is excellent. I went from my 80degree overload before this setup just relying on the acx cooling. After this setup, i get around 45-50 degree tops. So a 30 degree difference. Huge jump. But I would pick up these items to cool your vrams. The kraken g10's method of air cooling the vram is not enough.

Thermal Adhesive
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001GIM9V8/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_dp_1

Order 3 sets of these for the big vram chips
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708009

Order 2 sets of these for the smaller vram chips
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835708011&cm_re=Enzotech-_-35-708-011-_-Product

Corsair H75
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZHWFEW/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_dp_2

Other than that, it's great and delivers a nice performance than what i expected. Would still love to do a full loop water cool but right now, I really love this setup and my temps don't go beyond 50 during heavy load like running crysis, battlefield 4, using unigene valley and many more demanding programs and games all at max settings and running the resolution at 3440x1440 is just nice.

As requested, here's the composition of the rack:

• NavePoint 12U Network Rack
  
• TP-Link TL-SG1024: 24 port rackmount switch
  
• TP-Link TL-SG1016PE: 16 port rackmount power over ethernet switch (needed for the Wi-Fi access points)
  
• TP-Link TL-R600VPN: Rackmount router w/ dual-WAN and VPN
  
• Rackmount Power w/ surge protection
  
• Rack shelf: Used to hold modem and NAS
  
• Patch Panel: 24-port Cat6 patch panel (wires go in the pack via punchdown connection, and you run patch cables to the switches)
  
• 12" Patch cables: For connecting between the patch panel, swicthes, other on-rack devices
  
• Synology 416play NAS: Movies, music, pictures, etc. 32 TB in all.
  
  Elsewhere in the house/other useful parts:
  
  
• Keystone Cat6 jacks: one per bedroom, 4 in my home office, 4 in the media room (not built yet), 3 in the family room
  
• 1-, 2-, 3-, and 4-hole keystone wall plates: Buy the number of holes you want and just pop in the keystone jacks
  
• Blank keystone inserts: For when you have too many holes in the keystone plates
  
• Ubiquiti AC Pro x 3: Wi-Fi access points, roughly center of the house on each floor (basement, first, second)
  
• Punchdown tool: For doing the punchdown connections on the patch panel and on each of the keystone Cat6 plugs in each room
  
• Extra rack screws and washers
  
• J-Hook: There are two hooks on each wall, holding service loops for the Cat6 and Coax, respectively.
  
  Useful things I learned:
  
  
• I was originally going to run the wires myself, but never could find the time. Also Cat6 is expensive when not purchased in wholesale quantities (< 10,000 ft). So we hired a local electrician to run the actual wires. It took two of them about 1.5 days to run everything. This was well worth the money, since the project would have taken many months to do in the evenings/on weekends with a toddler running around.
  
• I did all the wall terminations. Since they were punchdowns, it was easy and took one evening after work. The electricians would have charged me another half-day of labor.
  
• I did all the network rack work. This also took one evening after work.
  
• Do NOT buy electrical/networking equipment from a big box hardware store. Always go to a specialized retailer, like an electrician supply store. Their prices will be 1/20th that of the big box store, you won't have to have anything shipped, and their employees actually know what they are talking about. So if you're looking for something that you don't know the name of, you can usually describe it.
  
• Newer construction may have fire breaks/blocks/stops which prevent fire and gases from traveling up the inside of the walls. This makes fire move more slowly and give you more time to evacuate. However, it also means you might need to drill holes/patch walls in order to run wires vertically.
  
• Put in a service loop. If you ever need to re-terminate for any reason (like replacing a patch panel), it will give you extra cable to work with. Do the same thing inside your walls behind the wall plates, since you might have to do the same thing there as well.
  
• Buy networking gear that is rated for the same speed (i.e., gigabit). Your network will only be as fast as the slowest part of it.
  
• Watch out for network loops. This is really easy to do and will cause your router to crash or perform suboptimally. I spent >2 hours debugging on of these as a result of connecting my router to itself by way of both switches.

I actually bought the shielding a long time ago for my home theater setup and decided to utilize it for this. Its made by Belkin. Its cool because you can actually paint it to match your wall.
Well power strip under desk runs back behind machine, hdmi and DVI cable back to machine, usb 3.0 cable (9.8 ft )"

Thanks for the kind words bud!

Here it is:
http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-F8B015Q-Hideaway-Concealer-White/dp/B000JJT8GE/ref=sr_1_15?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1394639694&sr=1-15&keywords=cord+cover

My wallet hates you, but I love you (no homo).

​

Would this be a good choice for aesthetic? https://www.amazon.com/XFX-1750MHz-Express-Graphics-RX-57XL8LBD6/dp/B07XVMXBQW/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=rx+5700&qid=1574466574&s=electronics&sr=1-2

You could use something like this outlet tap and it should be safe to connect power strips to it as long as you are not exceeding the power ratings. But I do not know much so do your own research.

Your new best friend.

Here are the specs:

Type|Item|
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4820K 3.7GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler | Corsair H105
Thermal Compound | Prolimatech PK-1 5g Thermal Paste
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-X79-UP4 ATX LGA2011 Motherboard
Memory| Corsair Dominator Platinum 2133MT/s C9 4x 4gb
Storage | SAMSUNG 840 EVO 250GB
Storage | SAMSUNG 840 EVO 250GB
Case | Corsair Graphite 760T in White
Power Supply | Corsair RM1000 80+ Gold
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 Professional (64-bit)
Monitor | Asus PB278Q 27" 2560x1440 PLS
Monitor | Asus PB238Q 23.0" Monitor
Keyboard|Filco Ninja Majestouch-2 w/MX browns
Keyboard | Keycool 84 (white body) w/MX black
Keyboard | KBT Pure Pro 60% w/MX blues
Keyboard|KBT Pure 60% w/MX reds and blue LEDs
Keyboard|Leopold FC660M (gray keycaps) w/MX greens
Keyboard| KBT Pure 60% w/MX whites
Mouse | Mionix Naos 5000 Wired Laser Mouse
Video Card| XFX 290 DD Black edition
Video Card| XFX 290 DD Black edition
Headphones| AKG K702
Headphones| Beyerdynamic DT990 Pro 250Ohm
Headphones | Beyerdynamic DT770 Pro 250Ohm
Headphone stand| Woo Audio HPS-HB
Headphone stand| Just Mobile Aluminum
Microphone|Samson Meteor Studio Mic
DAC| Schiit Modi
AMP|Schiit Magni
Speakers|JBL LSR305 5-inch Two-Way Pair
Fan| 3x Corsair SP120 Quiet edition PWM
Fan| 3x Corsair AF140 Quiet edition
Router|Netgear AC1750 R6300v2
Modem|Motorola SB6141 DOCSIS 3.0 Cable Modem
Custom Cables|Made by /u/Lavins

Big thanks to Corsair for sponsoring most of this rig.

Here's the review of the case I released a couple of days ago

if you have a radio shack or home improvement store. Just pick up some shrink tube. Watch a video on how to terminate a wire with heat shrink tube. here's some on amazon. Amazon Link

Some basic things to get:
>Wire crimper/stripper

>Fish tape

>Drywall or keyhole saw

Amazon has good prices on tools, boxes, and connection panels.

Could always try something like this, or something similar

http://www.amazon.com/HANG-AWAY-flex-grip-opening-Toothbrush-GLOWS-IN-THE-DARK/dp/B001ECLQ5G

Well man, I don't know what your budget's like...but there's this thing on Amazon.

It's not cheap, but seems to do exactly what you're looking for.

I find that the small(er) type of command hooks, found here, work fairly well at holding up ethernet cables. I use these to run my 100ft ethernet from the first floor of my place up to the bedroom. They're a little expensive, but they get the job done.

I bought a staple gun specifically designed for cable runs, and I've used it in multiple apartments to run ethernet cables along baseboards, door frames, wainscoting, etc. It uses special staples that are U-shaped (rather than rectangular), the staples go in far enough to hold the cables taut (but a good solid yank on the cable will pull them out), and the holes it leaves behind are so small as to be unnoticeable... or at least, I've never gotten dinged for them on my move-out inspections.

This is similar to the one I got, but you can get a cheap one for about $10 at home depot as long as you don't need to use it on hardwood or anything particularly tough to pierce.

You can always buy an adapter. http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-Motherboard-4-Pin-Header-USBMBADAPT/dp/B000IV6S9S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394072993&sr=8-1&keywords=internal+usb+adapter

I got you, I mounted a heavy af power brick under my desk with this Viaky 30 Pcs Black Clips Self... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M6U9Q9C?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share and this Scotch Indoor Mounting Tape,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KKPHZ8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Has not come off since putting it on around 2 months ago, not even a little sag. I used the 2 clips to hold each cable on each end and used 2x scotch to hold it up, can use more if you need.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PB7UVA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

From an Art book

These are actually not LED's, they are cold cathode tubes. You can get them in whatever color you'd like, but you do have to hide the little inverter box somewhere in your case. Link.

Maybe consider mounting your power strip to the underside of your desk with screws and use lots of cable ties for the loose cables. Some PVC conduit clamps would also help so cables aren't hanging from your desk under side.