(Part 2) Top products from r/CrownVictoria

I got my car in rural Pennsylvania. I did a lot of searching online and found the advert. It was a long drive (300 miles round trip).

The only reason I took the chance and made the drive was because the miles on the car were reasonable (91.5k), the idle hours were exceptionally low (295h), and the price was reasonable (dealer was asking $4,250, I bought it for $3,750).

The car was in immaculate condition because it was a Sheriff's car in an extremely rural area (population about 1,000) with zero crime. I looked up the Sheriff and there was only one guy in the entire department and he is an 80 year old guy.

This is probably the best criteria for buying a CVPI - get it from a rural area with little to no crime and low population. That means that the car probably wasn't beaten on because there wasn't much police work to actually do.

The opposite would be a car that was used by a state trooper or highway patrol. That pretty much guarantees high idle hours and lots of operating the car at WOT to run down speeders.

My friend, I don't mean to be hard on you for the way that you write. But I have to tell you that if this is the best you can do, you are severely limiting yourself in terms of future employment opportunities. If I got a job application from someone with your writing skills, I wouldn't hire them to pump gas.

What school teaches children to put a space before a comma? Also, is it really that hard to type the word "you"?

I'm not trying to be hard on you man. I just have a really hard time putting any effort into communicating with someone who has little to no respect for the English language.

That said, you did seem to try to put some effort into a coherent reply, so I responded. But even at that your grammar is atrocious.

Do yourself a favor: get better. Put in the work to learn how to properly communicate with adults.

This may sound harsh, but it is the best advice you have ever received towards bettering yourself, but I doubt this is the first time you are hearing this from someone.

I wish you the best with your quest to find a good car. And if you are interested in learning how to properly use the English language, here is a 100 page book for less than $10 that will truly help you.

Again, I'm not picking on you. I'm trying to help you - because you need the help unless you are ok with working minimum wage jobs for the rest of your life.

You don't really need to do a whole lot, it's just fine the way it is.

However, I would highly recommend an aftermarket center console if yours doesn't come with one. Most of the common ones don't need any fasteners or anything, they fit snug enough between the seats. Most people I know use the cheap plastic walmart ones, which work alright but aren't too comfortable and they don't make them in tan. There's one they make for Jeeps which happens to fit real nice in a P71, and it's padded and looks more like it belongs. I think it's called the Rampage.

If you want one, DM me, I have a nice tan one that I don't use anymore and would be willing to part with.

It's this one.

OP, learn from my mistake. I bought the one you linked a couple years ago. It does fit well and matches the light grey interior pretty well. Also great to have 4 extra cupholders. There is a downside though, which is the build quality. It is pretty cheap plastic, I broke mine when I was kneeling on the plastic sliding door part. Other thoughts are that I was always wishing for some kind of cushion for my right arm, the plastic is not really comfortable.

I bought this one to replace it and am happy so far:
https://www.amazon.com/RAMPAGE-PRODUCTS-32015R-1976-1983-Wrangler/dp/B000V9CGES/ref=pd_day0_hl_263_6/143-4021328-1505743?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00155MF0C&pd_rd_r=db57858b-5ae4-11e9-a328-111adf3de4ca&pd_rd_w=y5pOc&pd_rd_wg=MdKCS&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=0VSE54WG0Y3R69B0SYBZ&refRID=0VSE54WG0Y3R69B0SYBZ&th=1

Gabriel Front shocks $58.99

Gabriel rear shocks $80

These Spring assisted gabriels can be replaced with basc hand tools and need 2 jacks to be replaced.

Or

Front and rear shocks $135

Other than needing a single car jack and hand tools this set can be installed easily.

how to front shocks


coil spring $61

Coil spring $64

Coil spring insulater $5

coil spring tool $15 - $50 or you can rent a tool at your local auto shop for a refundable deposit.

how to replace coil springs

If you have basic tools this entire repair can be had for as little as $250. You would pull out the shocks and springs then install the springs first then the shocks.

Just get a drop in filter. It will improve airflow and save you money on filters in the long run. You will need a 33–2272 filter

https://www.amazon.com/33-2272-High-Performance-Replacement-Filter/dp/B000AP8EQ2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503279135&sr=8-1&keywords=33-2272

I've done 2 plugs now with the following kit. It's easy to do, and never had any issues with them since. Take your time, follow directions, and don't rush it. They hold solid and I've never had another issue:

https://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5334-14-Thread-Thread-Repair/dp/B0002SRF4O/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543236298&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=save+a+thread+spark+plug+repair+4.6

you just need a deck, harness and dash kit, and upgraded speakers. and the tool to remove the factory deck.

Here's a guide.

I've tried looking and forums and what not, and can't find anything conclusive. Could anyone confirm that this is the right belt for the p71?

http://www.amazon.com/Goodyear-4060922-Gatorback-Poly-V-Belts/dp/B000C34KWO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421974120&sr=8-1&keywords=GOODYEAR+4060922&pebp=1421974122034&peasin=B000C34KWO****

According to someone on www.crownvic.net, this is the right one but he has an LX Sport. I can't seem to find anything conclusive to state that the P71 has a different belt.

Get yourself one of these lil guys. It checks both your battery and your alternator.

3M makes a body trim and weather strip adhesive.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-08001-Yellow-Weatherstrip-Adhesive/dp/B000HTNNDA

I replaced my crummy Dorman manifold with the Ford Racing part last week.

The Ford Racing unit comes with the gasket on top for the throttle body, does not need any separate hardware. No spacer needed.

It does need separate gaskets that sit on the intake ports on the heads, though. I got the Fel Pro one:

(Fel-Pro MS96281 Intake Manifold... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HUQ6IS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share)

Let me know if you have any questions about the job. I did it last week on my ‘07 P71. Changed out a Dorman for the Ford Racing OEM one.

I have like 300lb of stereo and tools in my trunk. I put in air lift 1000's and it raised the car back up 2" and you can vary the pressure from 5-35psi. Had them in since April 2017 (approx 25-30k km) with no issue.

EDIT: here's the link https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CFQ34A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The turn signal clicking comes from the internal flasher in the LCM, yes.

Many of the LED relays on the market eliminate the click noise. I'm not a fan either.

Get rid of your load simulation or resistors. Just get this and it will do the trick with no problems at all. It is weird that the hyperflash is intermittent, though.

Here is the exact same flasher I bought, except on eBay instead of Amazon

This one works on full LED systems (LED at all 4 corners).

Install was a pain in the ass and ached my back underneath the dash. I went into detail in my other comment.

Out of laziness I decided to say screw the LED 3rd brake light and just put regular incandescent bulbs back for now, so I can keep my remote start and cruise control. Maybe someday I'll wire in a resistor or dummy bulb, or make a homemade LED 3rd brake light assembly entirely. But that's all unrelated to the turn signal flashers anyway.

Check last week's thread on this. In short, read the reviews on Amazon. They are not good. I would stay away.

Second, do not waste your money on a lithium jump starter. Again, check the reviews - don't just look at the star rating, but read them. They fail quickly and often dangerously. NOCOs are especially notorious for the charging circuitry blowing itself up and not working anymore only a few months after purchase. And that's the leading brand for the market... you want to carry a Chinese Taobao special lithium battery in your trunk all the time?

Finally, to answer your question, if the car's battery is totally dead, no, probably not reliably. The CVPI's starter draws around 200 amps. This battery will not be able to supply that reliably. The 600 peak amp rating is total marketing wank and means basically nothing. The 300 starting amp rating is only for 32° F or above for 5 seconds when the battery is brand new and fully charged. Your typical car battery is rated in cold cranking amps, which is measured at 0° F for 30 seconds. A CVPI's starter may only draw 200 amps, but most car batteries you find for the CVPI will be 500-1000 cold cranking amps.

I would look at one of these. Even the higher-spec Stanley units have bad reviews across the board.