(Part 2) Top products from r/Gunpla

Hey! I was in a similar situation a few months ago with around a $200 budget as well. Here's what I got:

Airbrush: Iwata Revolution - It's a great airbrush and is almost always on sale on Amazon for under $100. It's easy to use, easy to clean, and is solvent safe, meaning you can spray more than just acrylics.

Compressor: Master Airbrush - I wanted something with a tank on it because I didn't want it to run the entire time, and this one fit the bill. It's super quiet (I can even run it at night), and it comes with a moisture trap, which is super important. It also comes with a hose!

That brings everything to about $200, so there's not much wiggle room to fit other stuff in if you draw a hard line on your budget, but definitely consider:

Spray Booth: Master Airbrush- This thing is amazing. I love it. It's compact and super easy to use. It folds up super tidy and even has a button to retract the cord.

Cleaner: Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner - comes in different sizes, but it's been wonderful when cleaning out my brush between paints or when I need to do my monthly field-strip.

Thinner, Retarder, and Flow Improver: Vallejo products!- I love the Vallejo Auxillaries. They're easy to use, pretty cheap, and widely available depending where you live.

I'm not a veteran by any means in terms of Airbrushing (I've airbrushed 2 kits... a MG Strike Freedom & a MG Nu)

For both of them I went with a very cheap set-up...

For the Airbrush I used a Iwata Neo Gravity which I bought at Hobby Lobby for about $45 w/ their 40% off Coupon :P and it was a great starter airbrush, to me it was straight to the point and definitely something I'd recommend.

As far as my compressor goes, I went with Master Compressor. Reason being is it had a Hose, Water Trap & the Compressor. It works great and I still use it and I like it.

I didn't have a Spray Booth and went with spraying in a damn tub I bought at Walmart for $3 lol and didn't even have a mask...

I highly recommend getting one as it definitely helps out.

I recently bought one and I now use the MSA Safety Works Mask. I started painting my 3rd Airbrushed Kit (about 3 pieces primered lol) and this mask is a god send. I was killing myself before and don't suggest you do the same.

With a Airbrush & the Compressor Set that I linked you should be good to go all you really need is paint which I bought all of mine at the time from Hobby Town USA since they carry Tamiya Paints which are very user friendly and I thinned it 1:1 with 91% Isoprophyl Alcohol from Walmart.

I was in the very same position as you lol, I built about 9 kits before starting a Airbrushed model.

I recently purchased another Airbrush, I got the Master G23 and I've only used Primer on it but it's pretty good, the action isn't as great as my Neo but it's nice enough since I'm no pro and I feel it matches my skill level.

If you have any other questions I can help you as much as I can.

COPYING MY RESPONSE FROM A OLD POST!

I have used the Master Airbrush to paint my Hi-Nu Bust(Scroll down for it) and my MG Unicorn.

Both came out pretty well and to be honest I don't suggest you start with a Airbrush that is expensive... I've done some decent work on my stuff using the Iwata Neo & the Master which both we're under $50... Decent enough to place in contests.

JUST READ FOR THE COMPRESSOR, I STRAIGHT JUST COPY PASTED THIS FROM MY OLD COMMENT.

Also godamn, a Sotar 2020 to start with is really nice and might be excessive but jesus it's nice lol.

Your free gift is because the HG Customise Campaign is going on right now, and valid kits will have a chance of having one of the sets. Nubs really need touching up though, remember never to cut right next to the part, the gate is there for a reason, cut as far away from the part and either progressive sand/use an xacto knife to get rid of the excess. Rookie mistake, don't worry too much about it, use the knife to get rid of the nubs on your current kits first though, but be careful not to gouge into the plastic or your finger.

The kits you bought are both HGUC kits, which stands for High Grade Universal Century. The Universal Century, or UC is the only long-lasting timeline of Gundam, and this is because most of them have been directed by Yoshiyuki Tomino, the "creator" of Gundam if I may. Bandai's bought Gundam and owns it now, and because of this, all newer shows are usually in an alternate timeline, but is still considered "canon", as a lot of time goes past between the "timelines".

Grades determine the difficulty and part count of a kit. People think that grades equals size, but this is not true. For instance, a Real Grade is the same scale as your High Grades, 1/144 scale, but are quite a bit harder to build than High Grades and even Master Grades which are 1/100. There are 5 main grades: SD, HG, RG, MG, and PG, but there are some other grades like the Advanced Grade, First Grade and Entry Grade. These grades are very simple, but are essentially the same thing, color-innacurate, super simple, brick-like, 1/144 kits meant for an "entry" into the hobby. There is a newer grade known as RE/100 which gives 1/100 kits that have the surface detail of an MG, but the build and simplicity for an HG, meant to give kits that people want at 1/100 scale that Bandai don't think would earn enough money if it were an MG. Some kits don't even have a grade, and these kits are reffered to as No Grade by the fans. For more info here's a guide on the main grades, and the Gundam wiki has a great guide to grades in general.

Since you're a beginner, you should try practicing panel lining next. You should get a kit with some very good surface detail and tones of panel grooves to line. I'll recommend the HGIBO Man Rodi for you. It's a very good kit and one of my favorite Mobile Suits from Iron Blooded Orphans, the current ongoing series.

The best nippers in the world are Godhand's Ultimate Nippers 5.0, it's with these babies that you can cut right next to the part without worrying for bad nubs. Other good ones include Gundam Planet Nippers and Tamiya Sharp Pointed cutters.

My favorite kit right now has to be my MG Turn A Gundam, my second MG. I hated the suits design at first, but when I began watching the show, it grew on me rapidly. Knowing that the MG Turn A Gundam was the 100th MG, I knew that was the grade I had to go for, and boy did I not regret it. It's very detailed, and with a Gundam marker, it looks very detailed. Articulation is great, could've been a bit better, but what it has is good enough, and for the time, it was phenomenal. It doesn't use polycaps, so it's a sturdy build through and through. It has a few loose parts, but those are forgivable because they are loose due to the gimmicks on the kit. I've made a review on it, and you can check it out here!

I personally swear by Mr Super Clear


Having tried Tamiya, Mr Hobby and Krylon, Mr Super Clear is very forgiving in terms of topcoating. My general experience is that Krylon's particles feels somewhat larger than Mr Super Clear, which will result in a rougher matte finish. While Krylon is easily value for money, it's also meant for larger objects, such as handicraft or table showpieces.

Mr Hobby feels the same as My Super Clear but the small can finishes up quickly. Note that different paint bases may "eat" another layer. For non-painted kits, it's fine but for painted, it's one of the important considerations

Tamiya is also a decent brand but I felt that I needed more coats to achieve the same result as Mr Super Clear.

When I have issues with frosting, a quick layer of Mr Super Clear Gloss will clear the frosting, and I'll matte topcoat it on another day, and the previous frosting will not be noticeable.

An example of my OOB Marasai that was topcoated with Mr Super Clear

The O with the matte coat, doing a decent job hiding the decal edges as well after Mr Mark setter and softer

Don't mind the titanium finish Sinanju, that's uncoated. The Sazabi was matte coated

RG stickers after being topcoated

However, if you're asking for topcoat using an airbrush, I do not have an airbrush set, so am unable to provide any opinion.

You have three options for panel line;

1. Gundam Marker. Basically a fine point pen. The result is always a thick line, but can be easily clean up with just plain q-tip (or dip in a bit of rubbing alcohol for even easier cleanse). Great for filling in black/dark details. You can also use other fine point pens as a substitute.
   
   
2. Gundam Marker, pour type. Different mixture of ink. Dab on to panel lines and ink will just run along the line. Much easier to use than regular fine point. Much easier to use with 1/144 models which have smaller lines. Cleanup with rubbing alcohol or enamel thinner (or even your finger if you are lazy). This can eats up paint layer if you paint your model and don't gloss coat before apply the marker.
   
   
3. Tamiya's Panel Line Accent. Best of all IMO. One bottle last months...of years! Works very similar to the pour type, but better. Clean up with enamel thinner.
   
   -----------
   
   Some people use pencil, but I don't find that method to be efficient. You can also mix your own paint but why bother when there is already a pre-mixed solutions.

He said good price guys lol. If you're coming from nail clippers and just want a cheap, but legit set of nippers look on Amazon for xuron like these. They are the ones I have. But if you really want cheap ones xuron make cheaper ones as low as like $10 but they might not have a spring open or cut perfect.

I use the xuron ones for initial removal from the sprue, then some Gundam planet nippers for the close cut. But if you're just getting started don't worry about them. I will say though that for the price, the Gundam planet nippers are amazing. But don't feel like you have to save up and skip out on an HG or 2 to get these amazing nippers. But if you're flush and want the best, they're what I'd recommend.

So this guy was the subject of lots of experimentation.

• This is my first time applying a full topcoat. I used two coats of Krylon clear matte acrylic from a spray can. Turned out pretty smooth, despite me not having a proper setup during application. It smudged up a few of my Gundam Marker panel lines, but nothing serious.
  
  
• I messed around with more metallic candy coating. I reckon my Tamiya Silver Chrome undercoat should've been applied in multiple thinner coats, rather than the single coat I brushed on. My brush strokes are pretty visible. :/
  
  
• Instead of lame foil stickers, I painted all the "lights" with Aurora glow-in-the-dark paint. The paint itself has a grainy, toothpasty texture that made it a bit difficult to apply precisely. Some very careful light sanding in between coats, and a topcoat of clear nail polish, and I think it turned out alright. The brightness of the green glow is pretty impressive in-person.
  
  
• I added a couple extra panel lines on the shield using my newly-acquired Tamiya scribing knife. They're a bit rough, but with some practice, I'm sure I could turn out some wicked panel lines on future builds.
  
  
• The radome snapped off one if the sub-arm's connector tabs, so I had to glue it on there permanently. Luckily, I grabbed the Ez Arms kit, so I have a spare backpack, in case I want to reconfigure it with different weaponry.
  
  Overall, super fun, solid build. I learned a lot working on this one.

I believe I have finally decided on my first Gunpla, the HG Age II Magnum and want to make sure the items I have added to my Amazon cart are ideal or not for a beginner/future use for HG and MG kits. The list is as follows:

• Gundam Model Builder's Cutting Mat 12"x9"
  
• Findfly 9Pcs Gundam Model Tool Kit
  
• Gundam Marker Value Set
  
• Mr. Super Clear Flat Spray
  
• Bamboo Skewers
  
• Alligator Clips
  
• ScotchBlue Painter's Tape
  
• Styrofoam Blocks
  
  I know that this sub has a list of tools and tutorials, but because I'm trying to budget, I was thinking no more than $100 would be ideal for me to start with. Since I'm beginning with HG models, I don't think I need a full set of Gundam markers, but if it's needed/required/highly suggested, I might pick them up as well.
  
  So I have read and seen that top coating and panel lining are essential for MG models to make them pop. Are they just as essential for HG model kits? Looking at pictures of the Age II Magnum I'm planning on getting from Amazon, it doesn't seem to have a lot of indents for panel lining. Of course, I could be wrong and be blind as a bat. If I don't do any sort of panel lining, is it still a good idea to add a top coat regardless?
  
  Also, how soon can one get into MG kits? I was originally going to jump straight into either the MG GM Sniper II or the RX-78-2 Ver 3.0 but after doing some research over the past few days, I've decided I'll be doing a few HG's to begin with as I haven't built model kits since I was like 7 or 8 with my dad. I'm thinking after the Age II Magnum, I was thinking about getting either the HG Double O Diver or the HG 00 Shia Qan[T]. Maybe after I complete the 3 HG's I've listed, is it possible to jump to the the GM Sniper II?
  
  TL;DR:
  
  

• Are the items I have listed a good starting point?
  
  
• Is a full set of Gundam Markers a necessity for HG/beginners?
  
  
• Are panel lining and top coatings important for HG model kits?
  
  
• Is it okay to use top coat on an HG model if no panel lining is used?
  
  
• Edit Do people usually top coat the accessories? I can't seem to find any info on that.
  
  
• What color panel lining pens do people normally use based on different parts of Gunpla's?
  
  
• What level of skill should one be at before getting into MG model kits?
  
  

Patience and practice. Scribe the back of plastic spoons for practice, or any other round plastic objects.

But I do recommend using proper modeling scribing tape like this one instead of Dymo tape. Dymo tape works fine for flat surfaces, but this scribing tape is a lot more flexible and will conform to curved surfaces better. They last quite a while depending on how much you scribe. I bought a roll last year and still haven't run out after 3 MG builds I scribed heavily.

Secondly, if you're using this Tamiya scriber, you might want to change it to something like the Tamiya engraver or something similar. They're much easier to control over a tool like the Tamiya scriber and you can change the blades to suit the thickness you want or need for your kit. Mr. Hobby makes a similar tool that's a bit cheaper I think, and obviously there are BMC chisels which are the top of the line. But there are cheap alternatives out there.

Honestly though, when it comes to precision tools like scribers it might be best to go out and buy the highest quality scribers/chisels you can afford. Buying lower quality tools can actually get you bad panel lines.

I use gold, silver, and copper paint markers specifically gundam markers and sharpies

For the gundam markers I got the metallic gundam marker set: https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Metallic-Marker/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467993243&sr=8-1&keywords=gundam+marker+metallic

The gold and silver from that set is super useful but the other colors less so, they're okay but can be really uneven in the color they put out so I'd suggest for the other colors only for small and very few spots on a kit to lower your chances of getting inconsistent color (again though this is not a problem with the gold and silver they're great)

For the sharpies I used a metallic marker pack that I bought at Wal-Mart that has gold, silver, and bronze: https://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Metallic-Permanent-Assorted-1829201/dp/B007QNWC3M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467993555&sr=8-1&keywords=Metallic+sharpie+markers (It was like this pack, same markers but only one of each and it was really cheap like around $3-$5)

The sharpies are great they don't really spill like the gundam markers can but the downside to them is that they can kind of streak easily especially on bigger surfaces and they can rub off fairly easily which is great for cleaning areas where you accidentally covered, but can be a little frustrating when the color rubs away on areas that you wanted the metallic color (top coat helps protect the paint)

I use the Neo CN and my only gripe with it is that the paint cup is small for doing large parts in batches(think PG large - but it's good for almost everything else). It's very easy to tear down and clean. Another issue is that the O-ring for the cup will break down quickly if you keep it around lacquer/enamel thinners, but it doesn't seem to be necessary (My cup no longer has the O-ring and there's no leaks).

For compressors try looking for used ones on eBay or craigslist (You're looking for one that delivers at least 30 PSI with oil-less single or double piston operation). You can get name brand one with a deep discount. Most compressors made for hobbyists come with regulators already so no big deal. Try to get a name brand one such as Testors, Silentaire, Iwata, Badger, Paasche, Grex. The designs from Master and unbranded are all copies of the ones made by Silentaire and others. I can't comment on the quality but they get lots of good ratings and recommendations. Here's a prime example. Noise can definitely be an issue, so do look into quieter options with tanks if you live in an apartment complex. I use a old model Testors AC 200 and it can run for 3 hours easily without thermal protection kicking in. I picked it up for 40 dollars on ebay.

Honestly if you use a proper hobby thinner with your paint you'll never have part brittleness unless you just pool a crap ton of paint. Lacquer thinner (the medium with the worst rap) can dissolve polystyrene and ABS, but when paint atomizes from the airbrush, most of the thinner already evaporates as it travels the distance to the part. When most of the paint hits, the worst enemy of your plastic is already in the air. Hardware store thinner can be much harsher than hobby brand thinners (Mr. Hobby Thinner/Leveling Thinner/GaiaNotes Thinner/Tamiya X-20A lacquer thinner), even then I know a few users here use hardware store lacquer thinner with no issues. But if you're afraid of paint brittle-ness you can just stick to acrylics such as Tamiya, Vallejo, Citadel/Games Workshops, etc. They are easier to clean up and the fumes aren't near as bad as lacquers (still need a mask for particles, though). I wouldn't recommend spraying a lot of enamels as base color though, as enamel thinner can also make parts brittle and unlike lacquer it doesn't evaporate nearly as fast. Not to mention everytime I'd spray testors or tamiya enamels they'd be quite difficult to clean out of the airbrush.

Another thing to consider when you're choosing your type of paint is where you can spray. If you can only spray inside and you don't have the money for a really good spray booth, you should stick with acrylics. Acrylics also require good ventilation but you can get away with a strong fan blowing out a window and a respirator as well. Lacquers fumes are carcinogenic. I spray mine outside with a fan running behind me and my organic vapor respirator on. I'll be investing in a spray booth further down the line but it's important to consider your workspace.

Take your time to clean nub marks, it really does make a massive difference at the end, and is totally worth the time it takes.

as for other stuff that really makes a difference, get a panel line marker, they are dirt cheap and make so much difference to a kit.

the final thing is to get some matte clear coat, this gets rid of the "plastic" look to a kit, you will need to get a specialist one for plastic tho, so it get a little more expensive, a can like the one linked would last for 6-7 hg kits easily. if you have a games workshop near you as well, they also sell clear coat, though i would only reccomend this if you cant get mr. super clear or tamita stuff shipped to you, as its more expensive in my experience.

Good luck building your kit and welcome to the hobby!

HLJ seems to have a pretty good price -- I would wait until they get it back in stock, if you can agree to their shipping cost. I looked on Amazon and it's $90.53 with free 2 day shipping if you have amazon prime.

HLJ's markup isn't too bad. I walked into a Yodobashi camera (a big-box electronics/hobby/home retailer like Best Buy on steroids) in Tokyo and the cheapest I've seen the Sinanju OVA version is like 5200 yen.

Keep building stuff! And don’t buy something difficult or expensive until you are comfortable with it. You can improve your techniques and make the little HG and SD kits look amazing! I jumped into MG kits too fast and now I notice everything wrong with them, but I’m too lazy to re-do them lol.

Definitely work on nub removal and panel lining. Practice makes perfect! When I first started building, my fiancé bought me this tool set and it helped tremendously. Happy building!

Any Revive kit is a good choice for beginners, so the Gouf should be just fine. As for the tool kit, I've never heard of that brand before, and the nippers especially don't look like they're really high quality, but for your first tool kit it shouldn't be too bad. If you want an alternative, I'd suggest this one, since it's made by one of the best modeling tool brands (Tamiya) and I can say from experience that it comes with pretty good nippers.

I got a question for you.
How much do you want to spend on cutters?

Some notable brands for cutters are (listed from price ascending) Xuron($10-$20), Tamiya($25-$30), Gundam Planet($35), and then Godhand($55-$??). (There might be others, but I have found these to be the most popular.)

Right now I have Gundam Planet nippers. They are the best nippers I have had so far, but I have only owned one other pair so dont take my word to heart. What ever you do don't go for a $5 pair not worth it at all. I did that and I spent more time fixing the mistakes those clippers did to my model.

Personal opinion get a pair of Tamiya Sharp Pointed Side Cutters or Gundam Planet Nippers. Here is a [comparison] (https://panzercraft.com/articles/2016-01-31-tamiya-side-cutters-vs-gundam-planet-nippers/) between the two. In all honesty though I have no been able to replicate that slow cut with my GP nippers. Another point is I have been able to get pretty close if you scratch the white part with your finger nail it almost looks like the slow cut photo.

P.S. Really though all of your clean up with the nubs is going to be with sand paper and a razor blade of some sort. I just ordered myself a OLFA Rubber Grip Utility Knife, but you can also get a OLFA Cushion Grip Knife if you want one of them.

First I'll answer your last question, no, there is nothing wrong with not painting or going all out on a model. Like you said, you have only been at this for a few months and it is always best to start small. If you keep at it, who knows, months down the road you may be making your own custom models. That being said, lets see what I can suggest for getting the best out of your model without putting a ton of time (or money) into it. The first few things I would pick up are:

• A hobby knife for getting off the remaining nub, and cutting decals.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Elmers-XZ3601-X-ACTO-Knife-Cap/dp/B005KRSWM6/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1451350392&sr=8-4&keywords=hobby+knife
  
  
• Sanding sticks to level out the nub.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Squadron-Products-Value-Sanding-Stick/dp/B000CDR5K8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451350756&sr=8-2&keywords=squadron+tri+grit
  
  
• A marker for panel lining.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Uni-Pin-Fineliner-0-05mm-Black/dp/B00A7BSEKK/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1451351047&sr=8-2-fkmr2&keywords=uni+pin+.5+fine+liner
  
  
• Flat topcoat, I know you said you didn't want to paint, but this is just a quick step to do at the end to make your model look less like a toy.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-53530-Acrylic-Interior-Exterior/dp/B001C42OXY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451351086&sr=8-1&keywords=flat+top+coat
  
  The most important part is have fun with it, and do what you like.

I have been looking into panel lining lately as I want to move from strait assembly into lining and matte coating.
The general thought seems to be that if you are working with unpainted plastic you can just panel line on the plastic as it is already relatively smooth and gloss.

The reason for gloss coating before panel lining a painted kit is two fold.
First it protects your paint job you just finished.
Then possibly more importantly, thinned washes don't flow over matte finish paints well, so if you are lining with a thin wash you're going to go nowhere very slowly.
.
.
A Matte look is achieved by having a rougher surface, all those tiny little scratches/particles absorb the light causing it to look matte.
A Gloss look is achieved by having a smoother surface with much finer scratches creating the mirror like effect by reflecting it away from the surface rather then into the crevices of the surface.

Think of it like pouring muddy water on a piece of glass vs lets say cement.
It will flow right down the glass and wipe off easily but it will get stuck on the ridges and even after you wipe it clean there will still be mud stuck in the little grooves where you don't want it.

That is a very simple way of explaining it, might not be the best either.
Still, it should demonstrate well enough.
.
.
For panel lining you can do either acrylic or enamel.
It is suggested to not use lacquer for panel lining as it will not work well on top of anything except lacquer and can eat into plastic causing it to break if you use to much, it does however make a fantastic primer because of its strength.
Enamel paints can do this as well but not unless you use way to much.

The general rule of thumb for mixing paint types is this.
Lacquer can paint over other Lacquer paints but will eat into enamel and acrylic paints.
Enamel can paint over Lacquer and other Enamels just fine but can cause problems with some acrylics so you should test the combination before hand.
Acrylics can paint over anything.


https://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-Panel-Accent-Color-3-colors/dp/B00M58FWVC
I settled on these myself, as it is already thinned to the correct amount for panel lining and comes with a small brush attached to the lid.
It's an enamel so if I want to weather over it with acrylics it will not be cleaned away with acrylic thinner.
The only downside is that being an enamel it can cause your plastic to break if you go heavy with it.

First off, Welcome to /r/Gunpla and the plastic crack hobby


A few simple things that I think can help make a kit pop for cheap are

1.) Panel lining- basically just drawing in those recessed grooves that are all over. It gives depth and brings out details. The ones i use are like this. Brown for reddish colors, grey for light, and black for darker plastic. Usually $2-4 per marker depending on how you buy em

2.) Nub removal- there are tons of resources for how to do this "properly" and everyone finds their own way. The general consensus is first cut about halfway between the runner (the rounded pipe like stuff that all the parts come in) and the gate (where the runner narrows down and connect to the piece you are actually using).
Then using an exacto knife cut that remaining little bit off and buff the rest with high grit sandpaper 500 or higher works well. Its ok to be a little bit sloppy here because...

3.) Top coat- This stuff will coat the model and make all those sand marks go away. It also makes the model look less "plasticy" and more like the "real" thing. There are primarily 3 types: Matte/flat which is not shiny at all like a military vehicle would be, gloss which is very shiny like a sports car, and satin which is somewhere in between. I prefer matte lke this. Just pop the arms and legs off and spray.


From there you can get into the deeper stuff if you are so inclined such as painting, modding and scratch building. There are plenty of great resources here such as the sidebar guide or falldog's guide which is how I learned.

Sorry for the long post but,

Happy Building!

This is the compressor I use.

It's relatively cheap, very silent, has a tank to avoid pulsing and running the compressor non-stop. Moisture trap included. Needs a lot of plumber's tape to install the trap vertically and airtight, but it's a good buy nonetheless.

As for my airbrush setup, I inherited a thirty-five year old Badger 150 from my father, it looks a bit like this. The thing is a classic, sprays like silk, and is worth about 175-220$ if you buy it new. Cleanup is a bit more involving than recent models, but it's a dream airbrush!

I added a cheap, second water trap in line with the airbrush so I don't have to worry when I spray lacquer. It's really humid where I live, so I prefer to be extra sure :)

Well, the only things you really need to build a kit are a pair of hobby clippers and motivation. Everything else is optional, depending on how much effort you wanna put into making your model look as best as possible(hell, I used nail clippers of all things with my first gunpla because I didn't want to invest in tools before actually building one for myself and knowing if this was a hobby I wanted to pursue or not).

For this one I actually got a modeling toolkit, some Gundam markers for panel lining and a small cutting mat through amazon(although you might be able to find them at local hobby stores as well). I can't really speak for other tools, but these ones worked pretty well for me. If you're worried about costs you can always start with just some basic tools and slowly build your toolbox up from there as you build more models. Hopefully you have as much fun with your first gunpla as I had with mine!

P.S. Remember I'm also a newbie so take all of this with a grain of salt

Total noob here about to dive in scared on my first-ever build with a Master Grade kit. Just had to have this love at first sight.

Is a tool set like this a smart buy over getting the main essential ones separately?

If not, could you guys kindly recommend a list of half-decent quality tools that would fit a budget of $20-30 (or possibly for a bit more if absolutely necessary for a quality build)?

Thanks guys.

tamiya ts 80

​

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-TS-80-Clear-Spray-100ml/dp/B000ZVO3YS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=tamiya+top+coat&qid=1568355627&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

is that a good alternate top coat? mr top coat is nowhere in stock... and apparently the super clear is lacquer based and no good over decals and panel liners? so that leaves me the taimya one? is that ok to use?

Did you know the Xurons are Made in the USA? thats actually pretty cool, and in my book another excellent reason to buy.

I just got mine in today, and i noticed it has a lifetime warranty? Might be interesting to check out what that covers... never buy cutters again?

Edit: Found these also, which may be good for small parts on busy tree's http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-2175ET-Professional-Sprue-Cutter/dp/B001TMZ7QA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1372196644&sr=8-1&keywords=2175ET

I'm based out of the US so I don't know what brands are available to you. I've used two brands:

Krylon: I bought a big can like this from a local hardware store for about 3 USD. It does an okay job. It's a sort of flat finish but there's still a touch of shine to it. For bulk spraying it seems like a good deal but it's not the most beautiful finish. I assume most of the clear flat/matte sprays will be roughly this quality. One of these has lasted me through like 4 or 5 HG kits so far.

Testors: I bought some of this from a local hobby shop for about 5 USD per can. It's a lot less spray for a bit more money but the finish on this was great. One of these seems to do one or two HG kits.

>gave a cast iron texture to it.

in other words you oversprayed

I highly recommend Krylon Acrylic Flat topcoat. Its not the best you can buy but its the best bang for your buck. It goes on sale from time to time, I got 4 large cans for $4 each a couple months ago, its back up to $7 shipped free on Amazon

http://www.amazon.com/Krylon-53530-Acrylic-Interior-Exterior/dp/B001C42OXY

Hi there!

Many years ago when I was a kid, I had a lot of fun putting together Gundam models. They were really cheap little ones though, since I was like 12. I had a little Deathscythe model in a box until I moved out of my first apartment lol.

Anyway, I decided I wanted to pick it up again as a nice hobby to do with my hands.

I ordered THIS and THIS along with a stand for the first one and for the 2nd one.

I was wondering if you all had any tips for success for someone new to the craft. I don't expect mine to look SuperPro right off the bat, but tips on avoiding common mistakes would be super appreciated!

Yo. So Im looking to upgrade my airbrush currently I have a paasche talon but I would like to upgrade to something better. I also want to upgrade my compressor too, I have this one currently Master Airbrush High Performance compressor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H3CBXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qkttzb6V143GH. But regarding that I also wanted to know if I should upgrade it or is it worth it to keep it. As far as a budget not looking to spend over 250$ for both. I'm just a little loss and looking for some help.
Tl;dr looking to upgrade airbrush and seeing if its worth to upgrade compressor. Budget 250

I'm planning on top coating some HGs. I'm also using gundam markers for small details and the pour type markers for panel lines. Which top coat would be better: tamiya, mr. hobby top coat, mr. premium top coat spray, or mr. super clear, or maybe anyone have other recommendations?

Tools like this or this are used for scribing custom panel lines. Just sand the lines after scribing to flatten the raised plastic that resulted from the scribing.

If you check out the Repository of useful links and threads on the sidebar, you'll find almost all the answers to questions you'll have.

EDIT: There's also this Big List of Gunpla Tutorials & Resources with tutorials to everything. It used to be in the repository, I think, but may have been removed. Anyway, good thing I bookmarked it before. Enjoy!

Alright. So. I'm just starting to watch Gundam, and started with Mobile Suit. I really dug Rambal Ral's suit for some reason, and I think I'd like it to be my first build. But to someone who has never done this, it's really intimating. I know I'd want to go for the HG kit here as a first time build? And I was looking at this tool set here. Seem like a solid plan so far? And about how long does a usual kit take, give or take on experience? I know this sounds like a "please solve my problems for me" post, but there's a lot to take in. Help, please?

Airbrush

Compressor

X-acto -Z series blades are great.

For sandpaper you can just buy some popsicle sticks and 400, 600, 1000 grain, and then a buffing pad from a nearby hobby store or something like walmart even, it's all the same honestly. The popsicle sticks you can wrap the paper over to give you something to rub it against easily. Just practice on some of the parts that come with a kit that don't get used so you aren't eating away too much plastic.

So there IS the sidebar, but I'm not going to be a dick about it.

I've been building Gunpla for a while now, but I myself don't delve much into painting. I will give you my setup.

Hand Painting:
-Testors Enamel or some other brand paint
-Respective thinner
-Small brushes
-Something to mix paints in, or to pour your paint on. I use little metal tins and a small glass plate.
-Sticks for your parts to dry on. I use packs of kebab sticks from the grocery store.
-Something to put said sticks in. I use random boxes and poke holes in the tops. Currently using a SD kit's box and a pizza box. Most people buy foam/styrofoam cubes/slabs, I'm just cheap.

Spray Painting:

-Spray cans of your choice. I recommend you learn the differences between lacquers, acrylics, enamels, and different top coats. I prefer Krylon, Krylon Short Cuts, and Tamiya spray cans. I also prefer Kryon for primer.
-Somewhere to paint. IE your garage/patio.
-Newspaper to cover said area.
-Sticks to put your parts on. Again, I use cheap ass kebab sticks.
-Something to put the sticks in. Again, I use random boxes with holes on the top.
-I HIGHLY recommend a respirator of some sort. Not just one of those paper masks, but a respirator. I use this - http://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1457993861&sr=8-2&keywords=paint+respirator

As far as airbrushing, I can't help you there. I haven't done airbrushing at all, and don't plan to until I buy a house. That way I can setup permanent painting area.

So I'm trying Mr. Super Clear Matte for the first time and got a couple questions. If Im doing "light" coats how many coats should I do? How much drying time should I allow between each coat? Thanks!

GSI Creos AMS 121 Gundam Metallic Marker Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IeLzDbZJT2579

I used all the colors but the silver (was worried about the metallic red but pleased with how it turned out), and I would highly recommend these. Not too bad price wise about $10 for the set.

Anyone have experience with Tamiya Panel Line Accent? I've been using it to do panel washes on my most recent kits, but I'm actually less satisfied with it than just using Gundam markers. It usually flows pretty well, but I'm having a lot of trouble removing the excess. I'm using a cotton bud dipped in lighter fluid, but it often seems to remove too much, which results in me having to reapply the wash, which you really don't want to have to do with enamels. Any other panel washing tips are appreciated.

Here is the product I'm referring to: http://www.amazon.com/TAMIYA-Panel-Accent-Color-3-colors/dp/B00M58FWVC

Quick question, as a complete noobie to Gunpla, I was wondering if these would be the appropriate sprays to use for top coating, both for the gloss, so I could pannel line, and then do the decaling and weathering and obviously then the matte coat.

So would these work for the gloss and matte coats, or are there better options out there. Obviously price isnt to much of an option, as long as its the best bang for the buck.

The first one I've found is the gloss its by Mr.Hobby, called Mr.Super Clear Gloss and the second one was the matte final coat by Tamyia Color called Tamiya Color TS80 Flat Clear

1. It's not hard, it just requires some patience. Taking your time is key assembling these kits. Also have fun doing it because it's for leisure anyway right?
   
   
2. I would recommend getting a lot. [This is the one I got] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AND0FRG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.KvGxbG9TFHRC) but if you have a pair of wire cutters and tweezers handy those should suffice
   
3. I have no recommendations because to be honest I just started too. I got my first model for Christmas two years ago and my reason as to why I bought it was solely based on the fact that it looked cool. And my choices on models are still determined by that sole factor to this day.

I ordered this kit a couple months ago as a starter kit.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LB1T5D

Should I be looking at a better cutter? Or is this one fine and it's just my technique that needs work? If it's my technique can you recommend a youtube video or anything that would help me improve?

1. for Primer, I have been using the Tamiya Fine Gray spray can. This works great, as the particles are smaller than hardware store or craft store primers and preserve the details of the pieces. Other hobby primers work well too, such as the Mr. Surfacer line but I personally have not used those. Refer to this primer guide for which color you should choose for priming.
   
2. You typically use a gloss black coat if you intend to bring out shiny / glossy layer of the paint on top. If your end game is a flat / matte topcoat, I would say this step is unnecessary. I have NOT observed a significant difference in color between a build with glossy black base and gold top paint layer versus. just a gold top paint layer when I matte coat it at the end.
   
3. Your ordering is CORRECT. For the number of layers, my go to procedure:
   

• Prime in 2 coats. I do a flash coat (quick spray bidirectional, there will be missing spots). Wait for 15 minutes and come back to do a 2nd coat to completely fill in. Wait a whole day.
  
• Spray desired paint layer, 2 coats. Same idea as the primer.
  
• Glossy coat to preserve the paint. I handbrush Pledge / Future Finish on and it works, but I am very patience with this step as I can overcoat and this will fill in the panel line. One thin coat is sufficient
  
• Decal hell. Every kit, every time.
  
• I top coat with Krylon Matte Finish. You can use the hobby stuffs like Testors Dullcote or Tamiya Flat Clear or Mr. Hobby Top Coat Flat, but I am a student with a part time job and these damn cans are damn expensive. The Krylon works sufficiently for me, I just have to spray it more carefully than the hobby ones.
  
  Good luck!

TL;DR Which kit is better for a beginner with basically no tools at all?

So, I've been looking at some tool kits on amazon and I have basically narrowed it down to two brands. (I realize there are others, but these are the two I find most promising, I could be wrong though.)

1.Tamiya

This kit is from a brand I recognize and have been told about. I am aware of their high quality, but the small number of tools for $20US is a little underwhelming.

2. Keadic

So, this one has a lot more tools and a cutting mat (something I was going to purchase anyway) but I'm not sure of the quality of the tools. If anyone has any experience with Keadic, or if you know any other brands or kits that are better than Keadic, but still have the variety and amount of tools, please let me know. Thanks!

If you're painting a model kit, try your best to acquire paints and topcoats specifically for plastic/plastic models. If you're in the US, Testors, Tamiya, and even Krylon can work as good flat coats and each brand has a respective gloss and semigloss spray.

I airbrush in my apartment which is in NH. I can show you my setup once I get home (at work now). It's made from a plastic storage box, a bathroom fan, a filter and some dryer flex hose XD During the winter I have the hose going out my sliding glass door with a heavy blackout curtain covering the gap in the door

I use this compressor and so far its worked damned well for what I've used it for

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQS3UW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

I just bought this, and it's great for me. It has a .5mm tip which would probably be considered large - they're usually .3mm. That big honkin' tip means I can blow any paint through it with little or no thinning.

I also bought the Master starter kit for like $70 that comes with a working compressor and crappy airbrush. Honestly, if it could blow the glittery createx crap that I use it would have been perfectly OK for gunpla. My plan is to use this compressor until it burns up (reviews say it will). http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TO578Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I feel you. I just suggested them to another user, but you should check out these. They come with a panel lining marker, and the metallic ones are great for accents and the like.

2 Questions:

1. What's the difference between these 2 'Mr. Hobby Clear Flat Spray Paint'?
   - Mr. Hobby Clear Flat Spray
   - Mr. Hobby Clear UV Cut Flat Spray
   
2. Is it safe to spray lacquer paint (such as the flat top coats linked above) on bare plastic?

I second this. I bought a 3M respirator from Amazon (this one I think), and it's worked great. Looks like I need to change my filters, though; didn't know about the 30-day limit. (I've only used it about eight times, for a few minutes each, so I'm way under the forty hours of use limit...but if it's whichever comes first...it's been well past a month.)

Hey everyone. I'm trying to get into more serious Gunpla, and am currently looking to invest in a couple of tools. However, I'm on a budget, and complicating matters is that the store closest to my house (Planet Hobby, I'm in Ontario, Canada), is quite overpriced.

I've been looking at these two toolsets on Amazon, and just wanted to hear your thoughts as to which of the two (if any), would be good to buy.

Kit 1: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01H6FM860/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i5?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01H6FM860&pd_rd_r=F5NYPQMTV0V160C3N4J1&pd_rd_w=2M35K&pd_rd_wg=WyhdJ&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=C0VHYKYXH2TG97VB7QE9&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=07871b8e-d32a-4963-b98f-ba712077f7f5&pf_rd_i=desktop

Kit 2: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01AND0FRG/ref=s9u_simh_gw_i2?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01AND0FRG&pd_rd_r=F5NYPQMTV0V160C3N4J1&pd_rd_w=2M35K&pd_rd_wg=WyhdJ&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=C0VHYKYXH2TG97VB7QE9&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=07871b8e-d32a-4963-b98f-ba712077f7f5&pf_rd_i=desktop

Thanks in advance for your help!

I'd recommend the Sinanju OVA Ver. or the Nu Gundam Ver. KA because I've heard they both look really good and are fun to put together.

Don't buy that toolset, its very... I'd say low quality but its between low quality and medium quality.

Buy this instead.

• Clippers.
  
• x-acto knife
  
  You will be much better off. They are good tools and will last you ages. Also the blades for the knife should be replaced after one or two builds. But they are cheap and high quality. BE CAREFUL many, many cuts.... Also, You might want to start with a High Grade kit. You will learn a lot after building two or three of them.
  
  

I use Xuron -- they're awesome. First set lasted me through years and years of Warhammer minis, followed by gunpla. I just replaced that original set with their 2175ET which has a slight blade off-set to reduce strain on the plastic, thus reducing white stress marks. And they're cheap! Best option IMO.

TRADING

I have two (2) unopened clear Action Base 1 I wish to exchange for any two black and/or grey bases.


I also have a NIB RG Skygrasper I would like to exchange for RG Justice, Destiny, or Char's Zaku II. If none of these, let me know what you have and we'll go from there.

EDIT: removed RG Desitny from list. I forgot I had pre-ordered it.

Hey folks, I just recently found out about these amazing looking mecha's.

I've never built anything like this before, but I'd really like to get into it.

Also would prefer to paint my own,

been looking at this
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10319728

or this

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-Model-Astray/dp/B0042VJ018/ref=pd_sim_21_3?ie=UTF8&dpID=51BH3GVlTfL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR108%2C160_&refRID=0YS2GXRZNKXKJW85BV0Q

What would I have to do to paint on top of the factory paint?

The unboxing videoes I've seen online make it look really complicated, tons of small parts etc. Is this just something I need to learn through trial and error or?

Tools ?

Sorry about all the questions lol

I wanna get into airbrushing as handpainting is too exhausting and many of the coolest looking kits i've seen have custom paint jobs. The world of airbrushes and compressors seems overwhelming, though. Can anyone recommend:

• a brush and compressor
  
• A starting set of paints -- I think my preference would be acrylic, as I already have a few Tamiya acrylics and thinner
  
• Share some links about use and maintenance?
  
  I'm planning on getting the Badger 105 patriot and this Master airbrush compressor
  
  Is Amazon usually the best way to go?

Is this stuff pretty good to use if I want a matte coat? Also, if there are parts I want shiny and parts I want matte, do I just have to break out the painter's tape?

You can use the back of your razor blade but you'll have to be careful not to go out of the line.

I think most people use something like the following link to scribe lines. The principle is the same regardless of rather it's new lines or bringing out buried ones. This is is essentially just an angled razor. There are also picks that look like what a dentist would use that you can scrape the lines with.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KKBVTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_nOozwb7DT24F1

I use the Xurion 2175et. They make really clean cuts with minimal effort. Easily the best clippers I've ever used.

How many Gunpla kits have you built? If you think your skilled enough, and want one that is kick-ass and has a ton of pieces, check out the MG Sazabi Ver. Ka, or the MG Sinanju OVA. You could do a lot of cool custom stuff with the Sazabi. This one is really well done. You could also do something like Syd's custom Sinanju

Spend a little more and get the Master Airbrush TC-20T. It'll be worth it in the long run.

He Iwata NEO is a good Airbrush to start with, not only that many craft and hobby stores have replacement parts readily available for them which is pretty convenient.

Something like this is good to start with. If you like the hobby, you can always get better, more expensive tools from there: https://www.amazon.com/Rustark-Gundam-Building-Repairing-Fixing/dp/B071LB1T5D/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1541540564&sr=8-20&keywords=hobby+tool+set

If you don't already have a proper tool kit like This you'll want to get one, when i first started i just used household tools like scissors and my kit's came out horrible with nub marks all over the place. The file or some sandpaper will work wonders to remove those. You'll also want a panel line marker like This they come in different colors so look around to get the one that matches the model your working on, adding panel lines alone greatly improves the look of the model. After you have the nub mark removal and panel lining down the sky is the limit you can dabble in custom painting or try your hand at kitbashing custom models. Research each thoroughly before trying them and expect a lot of errors at first if you try those.

I'm pretty new with Gunpla and I'm planning on getting some more kits soon, and I was wondering if this little bundle of tools would be a good investment.

https://www.amazon.com/Rustark-Gundam-Building-Repairing-Fixing/dp/B071LB1T5D/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537979135&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=model+kit+nippers&dpPl=1&dpID=51KtR2rfa9L&ref=plSrch

I don't have any of these tools and I don't have much money to spend on them. This is the first time I've seen this pop up on Amazon, so I figured I should ask here before I did anything else.

So i just got back from Asia and got a haul of HG and one RG and MG. I'm just getting back into Gunpla after a 10~year hiatus, and want to take a step up in to beginner level painting/panel lining/etc instead of just straight builds.

Some 1/144s I got that I want to start working on:
HGBF X-1 FullCloth (the one Lucas used in BFT)
V2 AB
HG Wing0
HGBF Wing Honoo? (Its a red.... Wing gundam?)
HD X Divider

I dont know the first thing about painting, and have watched some tutorials here and on youtube.

1. Will the Gundam Colour markers be enough for beginner level of painting and cover most generic colours? I do have painting brushes/trays from my wife's painting tools.
   
   Gundam Marker basic set
   
   Gundam Marker Metallic
   
   
2. I also brought a... thickish? panel line marker instead of a fine tip one. I think its GM301/302 or something. Lets just say i made a mess trying to panel line a SD (Gundam Base limited Musha Godmaru if that matters? ver Clear colour). Is this not used for panel lining? I bought this with recommendation from the staff at Tokyo Gundam Base (using Google Translate...)
   
   
3. I randomly bought a Gloss spray from a shop in Akihabara? I believe that is branded Mr.Hobby? Should it be used because i paint/panel line? I've seen some say before but some also after? or should a gloss coat be done with paint instead of spray?
   
   
4. I browsed around the web and see a "add-on" for HG V2 with the Wings of light effect, but can't seem to find it anywhere? Is there a way I can purchase this? I live in Canada Toronto if that matters.
   
   Thanks in advance for the random questions.

I think getting a couple master grades would be better than a single perfect grade.

The "HG Sengoku Astray" is based on the Astray Red Frame, which you can get in MG here: http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-Model-Astray/dp/B0042VJ018/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1411528820&sr=1-1&keywords=mg+red+frame

the BF hasn't posted here in a while so maybe you can get him non-gundam related items with the leftover money, unless you know he wants to really get into the hobby

1. Yes all modern (post 2,000's) Gunpla are snap-fit.
   
2. You can get him a kit like this which includes all of the basic tools needed. Can also throw in panel line markers as a plus.
   
3. All preference really. The HGUC Gundam RX78 Revive, HGBF Try Burning Gundam and the all mighty MG Ball Ver ka are some of the highly rated kits for beginners.

You can get a scriber to make panel lines. It takes patience and a steady hand, but very doable. People use label tape to help provide solid lines to follow.

I got this guy: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Plastic-Scriber-II-Tools-Tamiya/dp/B002KKBVTC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1398719674&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+scriber+ii

I scribed the first couple of pieces today, definitely a skill to be learned! But I'll keep the WIPs coming! :D

I just searched on youtube for guides on eliminating seam lines, not sure who exactly but all the big youtube personalities pretty much have tutorials I believe.

So, I saved up some money and have a break from school finally coming up. I see that alot of the badgers are decently priced (i think im going to stay away from the iwata as they are generally over 100). But is there a certain badger that you recommend? the one you originally linked seems like a good one, but is there any details with these other ones that you may have dealt with?

1)

2)

3)

[4)](http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-200-10-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B003970D3U/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1456908816&sr=8-31&keywords=gravity+feed+airbrush
)

5)

Im sorry for sending a bunch of links, but i'd thought id ask and see what you may say :D

Thanks!

Literally metallic gundam markers haha

https://www.amazon.co.uk/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Metallic-Marker/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539539201&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=gundam+markers&dpPl=1&dpID=51CMzZ7y7VL&ref=plSrch

Theres a link to them!

Got one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038D38AA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It kinda sucks. It has to run constantly even for light painting on Gundams. Also I had to add a fan cause I could smell plastic on it melting after long sessions. Tho it has been running solid for years. I've even forgotten it on many times and its still kicking. Might be overkill, I think it goes to like 60psi, I normally use 20-25.


Happy painting

Looking into getting into airbrushing and getting the necessary equipment. I'm carefully looking through respirator masks since I want to work with enamel/lacquers and don't want lung cancer and saw in the tools wiki this mask.

Would replacing the default cartridge and using this organic vapor cartridge, organic vapor cartridge be what I would have to do? Thanks!

http://camelcamelcamel.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-Model-Astray/product/B0042VJ018

I bought the used one on Amazon warehouse for $41, but I figured I'd share the rest with anyone else looking to pick up a Gundam with a greatsword / bow (anyone else play Monster Hunter? :p)

I mean if you're absolutely convinced you should buy everything in a set then:

https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-TAM74016-Basic-Tool-Set/dp/B01AND0FRG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505772569&sr=8-1&keywords=Tamiya+set

Otherwise I lay out a pretty simple starter set here:

https://goodguydangunpla.blogspot.com/p/my-tools.html

is there a difference between these two gold gundam markers? if there is, what gold do you think would look best for painting the antennas/v fin on the RG unicorn gundam? i am asking because i dont want to use the gold foil sticker for that piece

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-GM04-Gundam-Marker-Gold/dp/B00750J0EA/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=golda+gundam+marker&qid=1564335050&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spell

and the gold in this pack

https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Metallic-Marker/dp/B00KBRFOIU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=gold+gundam+marker&qid=1564335062&s=gateway&sr=8-3

So Axon, just to be sure. I want to paint a certain part a flat Matte color. So I'll use a Flat/Matte Coat. If I paint other parts gloss/metallic I'll coat it with a gloss coat, correct?

Would this be a good brand for a flat/matte coat? https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Super-Clear-Flat-Spray/dp/B000W30PIW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495418826&sr=8-2&keywords=gundam+matte+spray


And this for a gloss/metallic? https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Super-Clear-Gloss-Spray/dp/B000W2YLGA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1495418918&sr=8-3&keywords=to+coat+gloss+gundam

I apologize for all the questions and ignorance. I'm about to paint for my first time on an RG Aile Strike. :)

Sorry, I wandered off. That link is more glossy, I like the gloss finish personally, but for a flat coat you want something more like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001C42OXY

I think these might be more of a challenge. Hope the links work. http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Sazabi-Version-Model/dp/B00EOEBG2Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1449005374&sr=8-1&keywords=sazabi+ver+ka http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Unicorn-Gundam-Ver-Ka-Master/dp/B005QKF860/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1449005374&sr=8-9&keywords=sazabi+ver+ka http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Sengoku-Astray-Gundam/dp/B00HD4ILWK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449005701&sr=8-2&keywords=Sengoku+Astray+Gundamhttp://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-Model-Astray/dp/B0042VJ018/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1449005374&sr=8-12&keywords=sazabi+ver+ka

unfortunately i live in somewhat of a countryside and need everything shipped...

https://www.amazon.ca/Testors-Spray-Lacquer-Clear-Coat/dp/B009FF6DN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525997806&sr=8-1&keywords=testor%27s+dullcote+spray

this looks a lot more reasonable but I've seen some people saying it melts your gunpla or something...? have you had any experience with this one?

edit:

nevermind, this looks like a very good alternative

https://www.amazon.ca/85080-Spray-TS80-Clear-100ml/dp/B000ZVO3YS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525998118&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+flat+clear

I ended up getting a Master Airbrush Compressor as recommended in the subreddit wiki

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Performance-Compressor-Dual-brush/dp/B005H3CBXO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1540918173&sr=8-5&keywords=master+airbrush+compressor

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It's relatively easy to use, and not too loud!

The Astray is $51.49 right now if you have prime- ordinarily it's $65. I haven't built one myself, but I've never heard anything bad about it. People generally rave about its flexibility, if anything.

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-Model-Astray/dp/B0042VJ018/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397012446&sr=8-1&keywords=mg+astray

MG Sazabi is a beast of a kit, and it's just barely under $100 on Amazon at the moment.

Any version of the Unicorn Gundam is a good pick, though I'm not sure on Prime availability.

HG Kshatriya with Prime is ~$60.

Maybe a variation on the Sinanju? Stein, Ver. Ka, or Animation Color

I use this:

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Performance-Compressor-Dual-brush/dp/B005H3CBXO/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1449424905&sr=8-11&keywords=tcp+airbrush+compressor

Although, if I had a chance to buy a new one, I would buy the same one with the included air tank so the compressor is nice and silent.

http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR--Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449424905&sr=8-2&keywords=tcp+airbrush+compressor

Thanks for the info!

So now I'm look at the Iwata Revolution and TC-40T. Do you have any other recommendations for tanked compressors? How do you refill the airtank?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQS3UW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ACD4013XBS5C9&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WBT7PTW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&psc=1

I personally recommend Tamiya's clear coats, as they spray thin and cure fast.

I haven't used it myself so I can't recommend on experience, but Mr. Hobby is another well-liked brand for clear coats.

I really want get into airbrushing my pieces, I wanted to know how consistent this compressor is...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038D38AA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_xmHjzb3JYF8CN

I'm not looking to break the bank, but I keep seeing mixed reviews with Master compressors.

Thanks

Honestly... at face value the kit looks okay but it probably comes with a lot of cheap crap you might not care about. I saw this in the similar section and I reckon that's enough if you wanna save a few more bucks and are keen on a set.

But if you're already willing to spend $20-30 then you can get what I suggested within that budget along with the knife you linked to (this and this, there's a few sellers for each you can get via Prime). That and some sandpaper from your hardware store and you'll be good to go dude.

Ultimately don't worry too much about the tools. You can make do with just sandpaper, a hobby knife and a crap pair of wire cutters and still do fine. Hell, that's all I had when I was a kid lol :P

If you want markers for panel lining, I posted in another thread - these are all you'll probably ever need: http://www.amazon.com/Triplus-Fineliner-Pens-Metal-Assorted/dp/B0007OEE7E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416514362&sr=8-1&keywords=staedtler+triplus+fineliner

They clean up wonderfully. A Q-tip dipped in 91% isopropyl alcohol will swipe off any pigment that shouldn't be somewhere.

I've used nothing but Alclad flat and matte topcoat, but if you don't have an airbrush, Testor's Dullcote is an industry standard: http://www.amazon.com/Testors-Aerosol-Enamel-3oz-Dullcote-Lacquer/dp/B009FF6DN4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416514426&sr=8-1&keywords=testors+dullcote

Not sure where your are looking to find them 'too expensive'.

Pin Vise

Tamiya Basic File Set

Tamiya Plastic Scriber II

Those are cheap and or par the course for finding them elsewhere. I don't think going with used tools is a good idea when you can get them new for very reasonable prices on amazon.

For Airbrushes the Iwata Neo CN and Badger Patriot 105 brushes are highly recommended for beginners, for the compressor some like this should suffice for starters.

Thanks for the advice! I'm planning on getting this set in particular. https://www.amazon.com/Rustark-Gundam-Building-Repairing-Fixing/dp/B071LB1T5D/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=gunpla+clippers&qid=1568147591&s=toys-and-games&sr=1-3

The gear I used for this, plus the kit itself, I all got from Amazon.

A Basic Modelling Tools Kit and the Gundam Marker Value Set.

Looking at buying a respirator. Is there any real benefit to buying a reusable one and suitable cartridges instead of the disposable one linked in the wiki (supposedly rated for 40 uses)? Looks to be slightly more expensive to use the reusable one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001TMZ7QA?me=&ref=olp_product_details

There's some sellers offering $18-19 with free shipping.

For the same money almost you can get one that's meant to cut sprues. I don't have a pair yet myself but I've heard good things.

https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-2175ET-Professional-Sprue-Cutter/dp/B001TMZ7QA/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1527554871&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=sprue+cutter

Here you go! :) Check this out on AMZN:
http://amzn.com/B002KKBVTC

Thanks for the tip!

I found this one available for my country, is that it?

I would use a brown or sepia panel wash on the Trans-Am.

It's what we use at my house, it's subtle but still defines everything really well

link

If I were to panel line via Gundam Marker, is a topcoat necessary?

Also, assuming the two don't overlap, can I panel line and apply decals/waterslides/etc?

And in that case, would this do? Or is a glossy topcoat more recommended if only doing one topcoat layer?

I just picked up these sprue cutters: http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-2175ET-Professional-Sprue-Cutter/dp/B001TMZ7QA. So far they are great, and actually cut the plastic rather than break.

Testors Spray Lacquer 3oz, Clear Coat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009FF6DN4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0w51Cb1S127KM

I luckily have a local shop that's a bit cheaper than this but this is good stuff.

I bought a 3M charcoal respirator for like 30 USD since i also use it when i'm priming outside

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1484055421&sr=8-4&keywords=3m+respirator

also this is the "spray booth"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YEP96UC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I purchased these cutters and they are nice for just 10$.
Edit: check your local hardware store if I had done that i could have gotten my x-acto handle and blade for half the price.

Ok so is this an enamell or a lacquer it says both on the page? And will this make gundam panel markers run?
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B009FF6DN4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I hear this is good:

Krylon 53530 Flat Acrylic Crystal Clear


http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001C42OXY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3V9RXJZXB2E25&coliid=I2YG2ZWFETWUWO&psc=1

I see it looks like you're using a hobby knife.

I strongly suggest getting a pair of nippers, or a Tamiya Hobby Kit.

Nippers are game-changers over using knives alone, and they're very affordable.

I use [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AND0FRG/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3TCNCNGLOHBSA)

Clear nail polish can be used to stiffen polycaps so they are more snug.

I've been using a paint vapor respirator I found on Amazon and it's worked flawlessly so far, didn't even smell fumes once: http://www.amazon.com/3M-R6211-Low-Maintenance-Half-Mask-Respirator/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1318262245&sr=8-2

Respirator needs a VOC filter, something like this: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420677671&sr=8-1&keywords=respirator+voc

Is this deal worth it? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D1JYXKO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IR1NAb14D22A5
I feel like I'm letting the kits down with my current tools and was wondering if I should get it.

These are the only cutters I use right now. Using the tips and taking off the gates in a series of thin shavings works quite well. I file and sand everything after trimming the gates, too.

I've been using these for the past 4-5 kits; they are cheap and work very well. These are nowhere near godhands or anything, I'm still shaving down the nubs with my hobby knife.

Amazon. There are kits that are sold with side cutters, files, nail polishers. Just about anything you could need for a build. https://www.amazon.com/Findfly-Gundam-Building-Repairing-Fixing/dp/B071LB1T5D/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527227248&sr=8-1&keywords=gunpla+tool+kit

I recently upgraded to the Gundam Planet Nippers side cutters and highly recommend them. These really cut and not just pinch the plastic to give that clean cut. The result is less cleanup with the Xacto blade.

would this be a good flat top coat?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009FF6DN4/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_4_w

Looks like its down to 73 now, but it was 80 when I got it on amazon

Usually on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B596V26/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_qhpoxbDPS9WRE OVA model of it. Or on robots 4 less: http://robot4less.com/sinanju-ova-ver-1100-mg?search=Sinanju

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TMZ7QA I think you can use pretty much anything for the first cut, just be careful that you're not stressing the plastic below as you cut. Before I got the Xurons I used wirecutters (the Xurons are a big step up). But I'd say that first cut is usually thicker plastic (and there's more tension, don't know if that is relevant), so it's going to wear your nippers more. If you're asking whether GP or Tamiya work well for both cuts, I can't speak to that, but I think any tool you use for both is going to wear faster. In that case maybe be prepared to sharpen your nippers (I just sharpened my Xurons after ~9mos and I notice a difference).

I got a cheap kit when I was first starting out. I have since replaced everything inside with upgraded tools.
Here's what I put inside:

• Gundam Planet Nippers
  
• NT Cutter Hobby Knife
  
• Metal File
  
• Steel Ruler
  
• Tweezers
  
• Magic Files (600, 800 grits)
  
• Buffing Block
  
• Pin Vise and Drill Bits
  
• X-Acto Handle
  
• Tamiya Photoetch saws for use with X-Acto handle
  
• 0.15mm chisel chucked in a small pin vise (魁 or Saki-Gake on Amazon)
  
• Madworks Scribing Guide + Hook Scriber
  
• Mission Model 2mm Chisel
  
• Mini file set
  
  It all fits. I can usually find space in my gunpla box to carry it to and from build meets.
  
  I don't want to get zapped by AutoModerator by posting the full Amazon link, but you can paste this after the Amazon url Gundam-Modeler-Assemble-Building-Alemon/dp/B01D1JYXKO/

I prefer Tamiya panel wash to markers. you can get a much cleaner line.

http://amzn.com/B00M58FWVC

The caution it that if you are not painting your kit, gloss coat and THEN panel line with this stuff (clean up with a drop of lighter fluid on a q-tip), because the solvent in the wash can eat away at the bare plastic and make it brittle.

so Gloss> panel line/decal> Top coat of your choice.

Canadian here also.
I bought mine from Amazon.com Panel Line Accent Color 3 Pack
Only took about 6 business days to deliver to my door, and the paint well within date. Though packaging was a little questionable, with the 3-pack glass bottles being shipped in just a single layer bubble wrap envelope. @.@

I also checked my local hobby store (Hobby Wholesale) and they actually started stocking it when when I went there a few days ago, but they sell it individually ($9 each)

Also of these: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Paint-Project-Respirator-Medium/dp/B00004Z4EB/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1410819278&sr=8-2&keywords=painters+mask+3m

Even if you are just using acrylics, you will need one. You will also be sealing your models, too, which are usually lacquer based.

Looking for opinion on an airbrush to buy narrowed it down to these three.

Iwata HP-CS

Iwata Revolution CR

Paasche TG-3F

The action base 2 are for 144th models. You need the larger action base 1 designed for 1/100th MG models
http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Action-Display-Stand/dp/B000KG499M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1405893297&sr=8-3&keywords=gundam+action+base

This one right here is prime.

Here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KG499M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486423580&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=action+base+1&dpPl=1&dpID=41hJjtAHGKL&ref=plSrch

Actually there already is an MG. It's an older kit though.
https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Action-Display-Stand/dp/B000KG499M

I panel lined first, then used this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ZVO3YS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483678708&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=tamiya+top+coat&dpPl=1&dpID=4176x2Qtl1L&ref=plSrch.

Here is the desktop version of your link

http://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-TC-20T-AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-REGULATOR/dp/B0038D38AA/ref=pd_sbs_201_32?ie=UTF8&dpID=51h04myW%2BCL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1XGWB6ZRYTFGTFFCB968

Besides the price is there any difference between this and this? One of them says Kai and the other one says Revise.

Bandai Hobby MG Gundam Kai Model Kit (1/100 Scale), Astray Red Frame https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042VJ018

Should be this one!
https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-Model-Astray/dp/B0042VJ018

Eventually when I cave and get an airbrush I'll be getting the NEO CN Gravity Feed Dual Action Airbrush $58 and the Master Airbrush High Performance Airbrush Air Compressor $66.

Whoops, forgot to put the link, this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005H3CBXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r2zhzb191QARC

Any thoughts on a different Master Pump - Here ?

I just use this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009FF6DN4/ref=pd_aw_sim_21_of_11?ie=UTF8&dpID=41qBnpRaiWL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL390_SR390%2C390_&refRID=1XX7NKV0SH3TJ88A4Y5W

Hi, would this work as topcoat?

Did you try Amazon?

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Version-Sinanju-Animation/dp/B00B596V26/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410622065&sr=8-1&keywords=Sinanju+OVA

It's the ver. Ka with the Bazooka for less money than the ver. Ka.

I use these for thick pieces of runners