(Part 3) Top products from r/Gunpla

so many questions! @_@ I'll try and answer what ones I can

• for your first kit I think I'd most highly recommend the hg rx-78-2 revive, on top of being just an all around amazing kit it is also really inexpensive averaging around the $12 range and I bought both of mine at Barnes and noble (yep, I like it so much I have two) but there is also amazon, hlj (hobby link Japan), gundam planet, etc where you can buy it
  
  
• beginning tools wise a pair of side cutters is pretty much a must and they can vary greatly in price but honestly a cheap pair from a local hobby shop will serve you just fine, an x-acto knife and sandpaper/sanding sticks/file set for sanding down or taking care of nubs is the next two things I'd recommend and with that stuff you're good to go
  
  
• I don't have a light box so I can't really answer this, as a poor man's solution I've sometimes used the bottom half of the gunpla box on its side with some white copy paper laying in it (2-4 sheets) to make like a fake light box
  
  
• the thing about rx-78-2 and zaku/char's zaku ii is that since they are from the oldest gundam series and so well known and iconic there are like a zillion (not really) versions of them floating about in the ether so it may be a little hard at first to get them matching each other perfectly unless you go for like a specific set that you know matches like say the real grade line and get each of the three suits from just that line, but I wouldn't worry too much about them looking like they match up perfectly with each other because it can be surprisingly easy and fun to collect several versions of a single unit (I have 5 rx-78-2's in just high grade form and two of those are the exact same kit, the revive with one as an out of box build and the other painted and customised slightly)
  
  
• I guess now I'll just list off with links (to Amazon, though you can search yourself and buy them elsewhere if you want as Amazon doesn't always have the best prices so don't be afraid to shop around a little) that I'd recommend to you
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-RX-78-2-Gundam-Revive/dp/B00WW4F8YA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463326812&sr=8-1&keywords=rx-78-2+gundam+revive the rx-78-2 revive is such an amazing kit, it looks incredible despite being a deceptively easy build and is super articulate, capable of basically any pose you want it to do, just buy it @_@
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gunpla-Starter-Set/dp/B003KX5OWS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463327018&sr=8-1&keywords=Gunpla+starter+kit two kits in one box, both a rx-78-2 and a zaku ion and they definitely match each other the only downside is they're a little bit older kits but still great
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gunpla-Starter-Set/dp/B004L21CMI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463327220&sr=8-2&keywords=Gunpla+starter+kit this kit comes with a grey gundam marker for panel lining and was also made to be panel lined which means that once you do it will look awesome and it also comes with the gundam hammer, downside is the one beam saber is all white plastic
  
  
• http://www.amazon.com/MS-06S-x3000-Kidou-senshi-GUNDAM-Origin/dp/B00T41F4P2/ref=pd_sim_21_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=51gbGYR4qeL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR140%2C160_&refRID=079SCS6R87B7N8X46D6E char's zaku ii the origin version looks crazy detailed for a high grade and just looks great!
  
  Finally, welcome to gunpla and I hope your first kit whatever it may be is a blast to build! And hopefully my ramblings were at least a little helpful

Hey! I was in a similar situation a few months ago with around a $200 budget as well. Here's what I got:

Airbrush: Iwata Revolution - It's a great airbrush and is almost always on sale on Amazon for under $100. It's easy to use, easy to clean, and is solvent safe, meaning you can spray more than just acrylics.

Compressor: Master Airbrush - I wanted something with a tank on it because I didn't want it to run the entire time, and this one fit the bill. It's super quiet (I can even run it at night), and it comes with a moisture trap, which is super important. It also comes with a hose!

That brings everything to about $200, so there's not much wiggle room to fit other stuff in if you draw a hard line on your budget, but definitely consider:

Spray Booth: Master Airbrush- This thing is amazing. I love it. It's compact and super easy to use. It folds up super tidy and even has a button to retract the cord.

Cleaner: Iwata-Medea Airbrush Cleaner - comes in different sizes, but it's been wonderful when cleaning out my brush between paints or when I need to do my monthly field-strip.

Thinner, Retarder, and Flow Improver: Vallejo products!- I love the Vallejo Auxillaries. They're easy to use, pretty cheap, and widely available depending where you live.

1. Oil dot filters and oil washes (gunk wash) are subtle changes to the overall tone of the kit and you're not going to be able to tell the difference between the two really when the kit is done. It doesn't really matter which you do first in my experience, but armor modelers seem to do a wash first and then the oil dot filters. Check out this video filters start at 10 minutes in.
   
2. There isn't a rule in what colors you need to use for what base coat. You need to decide what kind of environment has your mobile suit been in and select colors based on that. So for example, if your mobile suit has been fighting in the desert, then you'd want to have a more yellowish-beige-ish tone. Of course, you don't want to go over-board with the modulation, so your white parts will just have a slightly yellowish tone and not look like it's been painted yellow.
   
3. Maybe check out this video to get an answer on chipping. But yes, using a slightly lighter version of the base color and then your choice of the bare metal color (can be grey, silver, whatever you want) is a good way to do chipping. When it comes to white, use something contrasting like dark grey or maybe dark brown for a rust look.
   
4. You have the right idea going but you might want to use grey or dark grey instead of black. Black can be too contrasting just from an artistic point of view. You'd probably want to color-in the blasted part dark grey, dry brush the silver and add touches of rust here and there. But you also have to consider the state of your mobile suit. If the laser blast has been there for a while, you might not see silver metal, it'll probably be all rusted. And vice versa is true, if your mobile suit just got shot, there probably won't be any rust.
   
5. Yes there is a difference between acrylic and lacquer clear coat. Lacquer is generally more durable, it doesn't scratch as easily and you can use either enamels or acrylics on top of it safely, but it is pretty toxic stuff. Acrylics are a lot less toxic but if you paint enamels or lacquers over it, the enamel and lacquer paint will eat through the acrylic coat and can affect whatever work you have done under the varnish. Lacquers can indeed harm plastic, but if you use proper spraying technique (spray past your kit in multiple quick bursts), any solvents that can potentially harm the plastic will dry too quickly to do any damage. I'm not 100% sure what kind of a product the link you have is for, but ideally you'd want to find a good hobby brand spray can clear coat like this (acrylic) or this (lacquer)
   
6. Youtube and the wiki are your best friend, you don't need to buy books for those kinds of things, there are plenty of material out there. Checkout channels such as Gunpla Lab, Ravi Pla, JENIC, Zaku Aurelius, Musasino Plamodel, LIKE GUNPLA, (most of these channels speak korean some videos have subtitles, some don't) and non-gunpla channels such as PLASMO, Night Shift, Scale Modelling Channel and see what techniques can you bring over to gunpla. For a lot of the basic stuff and even some advanced techniques, check out Gunpla Lab's tutorial series and Paint Project series. They speak Korean but have professionally translated videos so the subtitles are fantastic.

Welcome to hobby!

First and foremost, if you've never built gunpla, or a model kit in general be sure to check the links on the side to get you started.

As for suggestions for a kit, I'd recommend getting an HG kit from your favorite series. You're bound to find your favorite suit in HG form. That being said; if you don't have one or still want suggestions I'd recommend:

• HGBF Build Strike Gundam Full Package(or its upgrade the Star Build Strike).
  
  
• HGCE Aile Strike Gundam(or the sisters version Strike Rouge).
  
  
• HGAC Wing Gundam.
  
  
• HG AGE Gundam Age-1 Normal.
  
  
• HG 00 - 00 Gundam(or any of its variations).
  
  All these are excellent kits in my opinion and have pretty good parts separation so they won't need a ton of panting(except the Build Strikes...their boosters need a lot of work). They're also relatively cheap. I used amazon as a general site since they have good prices generally and are even better if you have amazon prime. But you are free to find your stuff elsewhere.
  
  As for completion times from start to finish? Its hard to say since everyone builds at different paces and touch ups can range from just panel lining + stickers, to panel lining+painting all the details instead of stickers and painting those details not covered by stickers at all + topcoat. In my case a High Grade, assuming it doesn't need a ton of painting, will run me 6-7 hours. But I'll panel line line, omit the stickers and paint everything I can, then top coat. So I'd say be prepared to take at least 3-4 hours depending on your building pace and nub management. Add 1 or 2 hours for detailing.
  
  Hope this helps.

hmm for offical gundam colors here is a link http://www.gundamplanet.com/gundam-color-spray-100ml-semi-gloss.html .

However, to get the color just the way you want it, its better to mix your own paint, and you can save up for a airbrush kit as you can pick up a starter kit, for about 100 bucks on Amazon, that comes with three airbrushes.

Here is a link to the kit i bought, which is good for pepole just starting out with airbrushing cause it comes with both styles of airbrushes: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B006HJCP8S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1. despite beeing being 'cheap' airbrushes, they are all very good brushes.

However, if you do not mind hand painting you can just get a airbrush paint starter kit for around 20-34 bucks, that comes with all the basic colors needed to mix your own pigments. and well they are called airbrush paints they work just fine for hand painting as well.

You can also get spray paint cans that you can fill yourself, instead of a airbrush. They start at around 20 bucks for a single can. I do not know much about them as chose to get a airbrush instead.

As for paint well I have used a few different brands of airbrush paint for both airbrushing and hand painting. What I like best is Createx wicked colors airbrush paint. Its a water based self curing paint that is also made in the USA. Its safe for models and also a automotive paint.

I also recamend regardless of what type of paint you go with that you first use a lair of primer. Primer will smooth out any small defects that a gunpla gets from building it or accident.

http://otakurevolution.com/content/laymans-gunpla-guide has a great tutorial for beginner spraypainting and airbrushing techniques, along with a lot of other tips for building gunpla. despite having built a lot of kits i still check it from time to time.

I hope this did not come out to lecturery, helps you, and I hope you enjoy falling down the rabbit hole that is gunpla.

If you live in the US, you can get Krylon Matte Finish at walmart for pretty cheap. Art supply stores like Michaels carry them, but is usually more expensive. This is the CHEAP option.

 

Otherwise, your other options for hobby-grade top coat are Tamiya, Mr. Color (like this Flat topcoat), Model Masters, and Testors are brands I have tried and work well. I usually can get 2-3 cans of the krylon for the price of 1 of the hobby-grade top coat. HOWEVER, the hobby-grade ones produce a much better finish, especially if you want semi-gloss or gloss.

 

If you panel it now, you can return to paint it later without too much hassle. You can use isopropyl alcohol 91% with a toothpick to remove the ink in the panel line. If you topcoat it, and depends on the topcoat you use, you will have to soak the parts in the appropriate solution to strip it (I was able to strip the Krylon using Isopropyl alcohol 91%, and Model Masters / Testors with this stuff. Haven't tried the Tamiya or Mr. Color yet, although I think it can also be stripped by the Super Clean stuff).

 

Sorry for the wall of text, and best of luck!

As others have said, I strongly recommend this compresor. This is the one I used until I upgraded to an Iwata one. A tank is good because it's not only your first line of defense against any moisture build-up but it also prolongs the life of your compressor.

The reason I recommend the Iwata HP-C Plus is because it is pretty much the best all around airbrush. The size .3mm is perfect for gunpla. To priming, base coats and even pre-shading if you would like to do so. Iwata has a great community on airbrush forums and there's ton of documentation and parts for mods and customizing your airbrush to your own personal needs. This brush will last you a lifetime. I own a Iwata HP-C Plus and an Iwata CM-CP2 and I use the HP-C Plus for almost everything.

Keep in mind that you will also need to spend money on all kind of tools to aid you in the painting process such as skewers, alligator clips, something to put the pieces while you paint and while they dry, paint thinner and so on.

There was a fairly recent release of a High Grade Wing Gundam Zero kit, but it looks like he prefers MGs... I think there are a few variations of the Wing Gundam kit, such as the Proto Version, Wing Gundam(EW), Wing Zero(EW). or if you want to be the best friend ever there is the Perfect Grade Wing Gundam.

If he is a fan of the Gundam Wing series, it is worth considering Deathscyth, Deathscythe Hell, or Sandrock, which are other 'protagonist' mobile suits that fight sort-of along side the Wing Gundam.

There is also Epyon and Tallgeese, two 'bad guy' mobile suits from the same series.

If he is a fan of the original Gundam series, the RX-78 or a Zaku kit(there are many variations) would be good as well.

Also, be careful buying on Amazon if you want it to be delivered by the 10th (or shortly after). Quite a few of the sellers with good prices are based in Japan so it can take upwards of a month or more for the item to arrive if you buy it from them. It can be easy to miss that information if you're not paying attention.

I use the Neo CN and my only gripe with it is that the paint cup is small for doing large parts in batches(think PG large - but it's good for almost everything else). It's very easy to tear down and clean. Another issue is that the O-ring for the cup will break down quickly if you keep it around lacquer/enamel thinners, but it doesn't seem to be necessary (My cup no longer has the O-ring and there's no leaks).

For compressors try looking for used ones on eBay or craigslist (You're looking for one that delivers at least 30 PSI with oil-less single or double piston operation). You can get name brand one with a deep discount. Most compressors made for hobbyists come with regulators already so no big deal. Try to get a name brand one such as Testors, Silentaire, Iwata, Badger, Paasche, Grex. The designs from Master and unbranded are all copies of the ones made by Silentaire and others. I can't comment on the quality but they get lots of good ratings and recommendations. Here's a prime example. Noise can definitely be an issue, so do look into quieter options with tanks if you live in an apartment complex. I use a old model Testors AC 200 and it can run for 3 hours easily without thermal protection kicking in. I picked it up for 40 dollars on ebay.

Honestly if you use a proper hobby thinner with your paint you'll never have part brittleness unless you just pool a crap ton of paint. Lacquer thinner (the medium with the worst rap) can dissolve polystyrene and ABS, but when paint atomizes from the airbrush, most of the thinner already evaporates as it travels the distance to the part. When most of the paint hits, the worst enemy of your plastic is already in the air. Hardware store thinner can be much harsher than hobby brand thinners (Mr. Hobby Thinner/Leveling Thinner/GaiaNotes Thinner/Tamiya X-20A lacquer thinner), even then I know a few users here use hardware store lacquer thinner with no issues. But if you're afraid of paint brittle-ness you can just stick to acrylics such as Tamiya, Vallejo, Citadel/Games Workshops, etc. They are easier to clean up and the fumes aren't near as bad as lacquers (still need a mask for particles, though). I wouldn't recommend spraying a lot of enamels as base color though, as enamel thinner can also make parts brittle and unlike lacquer it doesn't evaporate nearly as fast. Not to mention everytime I'd spray testors or tamiya enamels they'd be quite difficult to clean out of the airbrush.

Another thing to consider when you're choosing your type of paint is where you can spray. If you can only spray inside and you don't have the money for a really good spray booth, you should stick with acrylics. Acrylics also require good ventilation but you can get away with a strong fan blowing out a window and a respirator as well. Lacquers fumes are carcinogenic. I spray mine outside with a fan running behind me and my organic vapor respirator on. I'll be investing in a spray booth further down the line but it's important to consider your workspace.

All Gunpla kits come in coloured plastic so you don't have to paint them. Any paint or other details are purely optional.

As for kits to start with, there's a kit just for beginners. Any other high grade kits are generally good to start with but I'd personally recommend Iron Blooded Orphans series kits since they're pretty cheap and have great articulation.

As for how to get different finishes this webpage should lay it out pretty clearly

What I like to do is as I build the Model, i do not fully assemble but test fit to get a feel for what is covered/not covered as well as if I need to fill any gaps. From there, I put the parts on some clip sticks to prime and spray. I use a piece of styrofoam to hold all the clips while I'm painting. Once the colors are all where I want them to be, then I assemble it all and do touch ups where needed.

As for general airbrushing, I practiced on ping pong balls before I tried painting models. It's something somewhat challenging to practice getting even costs on a uneven surface as well as a good way to learn control for your brush. Along with that, I also sprayed on paper just to experiment with spray patterns at different angles and pressures.

Here's a link to those clip sticks I was talking about. Good luck on your next build!
http://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Alligator-Stick-Airbrush-Hobby/dp/B00CWRCO6M

Edit: Looks like list may not be showing so here are the components:

Airbrush: Iwata Plus C dual action
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018A7QJE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I9WXOKVZTYMO3

Compressor: Not sure which one to get?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AQK78/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I10JZK102OKEGV

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=IOQHMHZT48RDP

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001738DXU/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I3DYP4EJGJ9917

Spray booth:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B2TESUQ/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=28P9LQDH5BL8W&coliid=I2LP8DLJI9UTR9


I'm currently in a studio apartment and in med school so obviously I'm tight on a lot of things, but I would like to get into airbrushing.

I've heard the iwata was good, but I'm confused about the compressors b/c I want something quiet so I chose a couple (two of them look to be the same). Also, instead of making a spray booth I wanted to save time and just get a pre made one.

If I order the iwata, a compressor (Are the ones I've chosen any good?), and a spray booth will I be set? Since I live in a small apartment I'm planning on using acrylics to be safe. Just to clarify, I've read the faq and other threads about airbrushing but wanted to see if this particular setup is any good.

I would get the Gunpla you want but I would HIGHLY suggest a HG kit first since you are new to modelling. It will get you in the hang of getting pieces off the sprue, cleaning them up, and following the instructions. The HGBF kits are fairly new and very nice/easy to build. Besides, if you make beginner mistakes better to not make them on the kit you fell in love with.

Build Burning is a super popular HGBF kit and its relatively cheap on amazon.

I appreciate all the help! The Krome seems a lot cheaper, but the Iwata sure is getting a lot of praise. I'm leaning towards the Iwata atm...

This is the HP-C Plus right?
https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Performance-Action-Large-Gravity/dp/B0018A7QJE/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1478587306&sr=1-1&keywords=iwata+hpc+plus

Also, could you please link me a .2mm needle/nozzle? I couldn't seem to find any. Thanks so much! :)

This is the compressor I use.

It's relatively cheap, very silent, has a tank to avoid pulsing and running the compressor non-stop. Moisture trap included. Needs a lot of plumber's tape to install the trap vertically and airtight, but it's a good buy nonetheless.

As for my airbrush setup, I inherited a thirty-five year old Badger 150 from my father, it looks a bit like this. The thing is a classic, sprays like silk, and is worth about 175-220$ if you buy it new. Cleanup is a bit more involving than recent models, but it's a dream airbrush!

I added a cheap, second water trap in line with the airbrush so I don't have to worry when I spray lacquer. It's really humid where I live, so I prefer to be extra sure :)

Save your money you are like $100 bucks off getting a decent set up.

Edit: Let me elaborate on my reasons a little bit.

You want an air compressor with a tank and an automatic on/off switch.

This will keep your airbrush from getting pulsating air and the on/off switch will extend the life of your compressor (so will the tank as it isn't running all the time). Some added bonuses is being able to work without a lot of noise.

There are some cheap ones you can buy on amazon. ( TheTC-40T and the Master Tank Compressor)

Airbrushes are tricky. but you still can get soem good ones under $100. Like the Badger Krome RK-1, Badger 105 Patriot, Iwata Neo (Not made by Iwata but supported by them), and Iwata Revolution

Im a big fan of Iwata airbrushes. the Eclipse HP-CS is a good mid range AB. More expensive than what you paid for your chinese one I'm sure. But its not super expensive, and you'll notice the quality difference right away.

I didn't mean that you're going to sand most of the gloss coat off. I just mean that you sand it enough that you don't see glossiness anywhere on the piece. The gloss coat will usually have a little bit of an uneven surface after its sprayed on. some times this uneven surface will be very pronounced, which is called orange peel, because it looks like the skin of an orange. Even if you did a really good job spraying, there will be some slight unevenness. Make a couple quick passes of sand paper and you'll see the high spots will no longer be glossy and the low spots will remain glossy. But if you keep sanding, all those high spots will be leveled off and you'll create a flat smooth surface. At that point, all the glossiness will be gone. It sounds counter-intuitive, I know. But Now that the surface is flat and smooth the polishing compound will bring the gloss back.

found this vid real quick, illustrating wet sanding and orange peel on a larger scale (a car). it wont be this pronounced on a model but it will be there. They don't show how to buff, but you do see them wet sanding. It's the same basic concept, just on small pieces.

I should also mention that if you are only wanting to do a gloss coat for proposes of applying decals and panel washes, and are just going to spray a flat clear over that, don't bother with all this. just spray it and leave it. it'll be glossy enough to do that stuff. But if you want you end finish to be super glossy, wet sanding and polishing is the way to go.

Great job. Really, it looks awesome. I would agree with Rouge-Y though, note necessarily thinner panel lines, but lighter. What you have there would be great for darker plastic. I would recommend the gray panel line marker or a mechanical pencil for white and yellow pieces.

The gray panel line marker is my bread and butter:
http://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Point-Gundam-Marker/dp/B006B3YYZM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1453841124&sr=8-5&keywords=panel+line

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-Version-Counterattack/dp/B0091O17LM I'm planning on putting the LED in this guy once I get him (He's on his way) because the lit up eyes would just look great on him. I love gunpla just because the designs are cool and it's a step closer to the reality (Besides the 1:1 scale) To where I can believe that it's possible for gundam to exist in the near future. Also it gives a personal touch to you figures instead of saying "I bought it and now it's posed here" I can say "I built this and look how great it looks and how much time and effort I put into this."

This marker is probably all you will need for a while, as long as you are gentle with the tip.

If you have a hobby shop nearby, it might be easier (and probably cheaper) than Amazon. The grey marker brings out panel lines and shadows best on white, grey, and lighter blue/green colors. All you need to clean up the lines is a Q-tip and a tiny amount of butane/lighter fluid.

However, once you get into the hobby more and are building more (1-3 models per month, in my estimate), you may want to invest in a pre-mixed set of panel washes for use on different colors.

Welcome to hobby! Find a cool pose and set it up someplace to proudly show it.

If you want to take it an extra step without too much investment, pick up some thin line pens like Micron Ink Pens. Amazon Link They are easy to use and a little rubbing alcohol with a cotton swap can clean up any errors.

Anyone care to provide some input on my first air brush setup? I haven't bought it yet but this is what I'm planning on purchasing:

Airbrush = Badger 105 Patriot
Compressor = Master Airbrush TC-40T
Spray Booth = Master Portable Spray Booth

Here's a few of the lingering questions I have:

• What cleaning kit would you recommend? Does the cleaner fluid matter that much?
  
• Is the TC-40T worth it over the TC-20T? Looking at it and reading the reviews on Amazon it seems like it's worth
  
• Anything else I would need that I'm missing? I'm still researching the different types of paint and everything.

The major impact is due to the Matte top coat:

Mr. Top Coat Flat Spray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000WS12C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_DdWuDbQHS4ZJE

They are VERY cheap in Japan but good luck importing them at a good price.

I'm gonna assume that you ONLY have that $28 and can't purchase the $35 needed for free shipping, so I'll go with a HG kit.

Fenice Rinascita most of the sellers are in Japan and might take forever to get here, but there's one I see from Canada that JUST fits your budget.

Build Burning Gundam Just makes your budget buying from Amazon with Standard Shipping.

Age-FX For this one You'd have to buy from Japan, but I think it's a good kit and an underrated suit because it's from AGE.

Star Build Strike Plavsky Wing Not technically a SEED kit. lol

Age-1 Normal I've heard nothing but good things about this kit, and it's REALLY cheap.

And Lastly I'll suggest the 0 Gundam. This version isn't very colorful, but it comes with some cool wing effect parts. But there's a colored version that's cheaper that doesn't come with the wings here.

I'm planning on top coating some HGs. I'm also using gundam markers for small details and the pour type markers for panel lines. Which top coat would be better: tamiya, mr. hobby top coat, mr. premium top coat spray, or mr. super clear, or maybe anyone have other recommendations?

I've never spray painted before but I want to get a set up for life so I don't have to rebuy anything, after reading a lot of posts here I've decided to get the Iwata Medea C+
https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Performance-Action-Large-Gravity/dp/B0018A7QJE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493708624&sr=8-1&keywords=iwata+c%2B

I'm still a bit confuse on what other tools I need to get started, I'm not sure what to air compressor to get but I would like to get one with a tank so that it doesn't make noise, or doesn't have to constantly be on.

I think I may also need a spraying booth so the paint won't linger in my work room. If anyone can guide me on what to get for a complete set up or if a different brush might be better that would be great

tyty

This was the set that I initially purchased. The air brushes that came with the kit are a little on the cheap side but they were good for me to learn with.

This is the spray booth that I purchased a little while ago. So far the booth has been great. I'm able to spray indoors, both rattle cans and my airbrush. You just have to change the filter every once in a while, and I think the filters are ~$10.

I recently purchased this airbrush. I havent been able to use it yet though because I need an adapter to use it with the hose for my compressor.

Airbrush

Compressor

X-acto -Z series blades are great.

For sandpaper you can just buy some popsicle sticks and 400, 600, 1000 grain, and then a buffing pad from a nearby hobby store or something like walmart even, it's all the same honestly. The popsicle sticks you can wrap the paper over to give you something to rub it against easily. Just practice on some of the parts that come with a kit that don't get used so you aren't eating away too much plastic.

This is a second to the first post I made. Here's some examples of the specials I was talking about that pop up.

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Gundam-Unicorn-Banshee-Master/dp/B0071QGXHU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1380737796&sr=8-5&keywords=wing+gundam+ver+ka

http://www.amazon.com/XXXG-01W-Gundam-scale-Model-JAPAN/dp/B004KJ41F2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1380737796&sr=8-2&keywords=wing+gundam+ver+ka

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Gundam-Sandrock-Master-Grade/dp/B005ED3PAU/ref=pd_bxgy_t_img_y

The shipping times are AWESOME, and FREE with prime!

Hi there! Great gift idea. My gf actually picked out my first kit for me recently and chose a HG Barbatos model for my studio. Definitely would recommend that. http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Orphans-Barbatos-Iron-Blooded/dp/B0129DW0WG

From a pure aesthetic perspective, the MG Shin Musha Gundam is fucking DOPE! Nothin screams wifey material more than buying yo man a robot samurai lol... Def next on my buy list. http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-BAN153804-Shin-Musha-Gundam/dp/B0018P09QQ

Yeah, this one might be worth looking into though folks here swear by the gravity fed Iwata Neo CN or Badger Patriot 105 airbrushes for being great quality and beginner friendly.

Like any hobby the initial cost to start will always be high. You may be tempted to buy cheaper tools but whats the point if you plan on building Gunpla for a while and will end up replacing them. If you only want to build 1-2 kits then you can get away with 2 dollar clippers and a box cutter but it won't give you good results.

Despite the cost these are still the tools I recommend that EVERY Gunpla owner who doesn't plan on painting their kits purchase

A) Tamiya 74035 Sharp pointed side cutters, worth every penny

B) Xuron 410 Side Cutters, very durable at an affordable cost

C) X-Acto X3000, Comfort rubber grip, comes with 2 blades

D) 3 Fine tipped Gundam Markers, Black, Grey and Brown

E) Krylon Acrylic Flat Coat, large can for only $5-6


And that's it.

1. Use the Xuron side cutters to cut the part off the runner. Cut on the fat part (the runner) not the thin part next to the part (the gate). This will decrease the stress on the plastic and will maintain the sharp blade on your more expensive Tamiya side cutters.
   
   2)Use the Tamiya cutters to cut the remaining nub, with practice you can get it practically flush to the part.
   
   
   3)Clean up the nub with a hobby knife. You don't need sandpaper or a file if you did the steps above correctly and the flat coat will mask any scratches.
   
   4)Use the Gundam markers for lining
   
   
2. Apply your sticker (peel one of the corners and then "scoop" and apply it using the hobby knife, no tweezer needed).
   
   6)Finally finish with a top coat
   
   Total cost with amazon prime is $65. Yes the Initial cost is high but the tools above will last you for 20+ kits (you will need to buy more blades and flat coat). If you really can't afford that you can save up for the Tamiya sharp pointed side cutters and use the Xurons in the mean time (you will have more work to do).
   
   So $38-65 initial investment to me is really not that expensive
   

This community has been great with answering so many questions but this is the first time I can’t find the question I’m asking
I’m hoping to step up my building with adding paints. So my questions are
1.For now I just want to paint the Master Grades inner frame. From what I’ve gathered, this would be a neat inner frame color but do I need to prime the inner frame ?
2. Assuming the inner frame is spray painted with question 1’s spray can and I go about my regular building process, when I matte topcoat finish with this, will it react it some weird way with the inner frame color ?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQS3UW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

I just bought this, and it's great for me. It has a .5mm tip which would probably be considered large - they're usually .3mm. That big honkin' tip means I can blow any paint through it with little or no thinning.

I also bought the Master starter kit for like $70 that comes with a working compressor and crappy airbrush. Honestly, if it could blow the glittery createx crap that I use it would have been perfectly OK for gunpla. My plan is to use this compressor until it burns up (reviews say it will). http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TO578Q?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

It's not necessarily beefy, but what about the Gran-Daddy gundam himself? RX-78-2 http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-RX-78-2-Action/dp/B00CRSXK4Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417067802&sr=8-2&keywords=Gundam+MG

Or try the Sandrock http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Gundam-Sandrock-Master-Grade/dp/B005ED3PAU/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1417067871&sr=8-24&keywords=Gundam+MG

Good luck in choosing your kit!

May I suggest
https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Burning-Gundam-Fighters/dp/B00M1APMU0
If you like g-gundam?
Cheap easy and it looks great

Not worries, just sharing my experience and offering some advice ;)

That back of 200 clips is only $14 which comes out to $0.07 a piece for very high quality clips. Paired with 4mm skewers and they offer a far superior tool.

I do like these little tiny ones for the smaller parts though. I picked up this set for $0.11 a piece and while the red insulation is useless, they're good clips for small parts as long as you secure them with some other adhesive.

WIP https://imgur.com/gallery/Z8agx as promised. I'm not finished yet. I still need to complete the panel lining and add on a coat of future.

It's not -too- expensive to get into, but it is a bit of up front investment, as you need something for ventillation(search amazon for spray booths or you can look up how to slap one together with a box fan(I may do this at some point to get more space and get more cfm through the filter). I went wit a slightly more expensive kit that came with 3 brushes(so I could horse around and see which I preferred): https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Professional-Airbrushing/dp/B006HJCP8S/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1503100981&sr=8-7&keywords=masters+compressor+airbrush but you can save ~$10 and go with https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Dual-action-Compressor/dp/B001TO578Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1503100981&sr=8-4&keywords=masters+compressor+airbrush

I'd recommend the Sinanju OVA Ver. or the Nu Gundam Ver. KA because I've heard they both look really good and are fun to put together.

Well, good news, you can get them in HG! :)

​

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Orphans-Barbatos-Iron-Blooded/dp/B0129DW0WG/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=hg+barbatos&qid=1555211105&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Barbatos-Blooded-Orphans/dp/B018TGV2TE/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=hg+barbatos&qid=1555211105&s=gateway&sr=8-9

Oops, theres a typo in there somewhere. If you've got a few extra bucks and live in the US Amazon has a good price on the GM02 with free shipping as well.
https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Point-Gundam-Marker/dp/B006B3YYZM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518123632&sr=8-2&keywords=Gm02+gundam+marker

Make sure you buy a hose if you buy a compressor without one (eg. if you buy used).

You will want to buy a respirator.

You can also jump-start his accessories list by including some cleaning supplies (spray-out pot, airbrush cleaner), as well as some paints/primer/topcoat (tamiya, mr color, vallejo, alclad ii, etc.).

I believe this can all be done with a budget of 300$ (assuming US). At this point, he could start spraying that day if he wanted.

EDIT: I use this Master Airbrush Compressor and the Iwata HP-CS airbrush. I've been happy with them so far, but I do wish I spent a little more on a compressor with a tank (as /u/7x13 recommends).

You can do with out the Testors enamle paint. Also remove the future...its about$5 for shipping you're better off picking it up at Walmart with some Windex to clean up the air brush after you use it.

Here's a better option for the alligator clips
https://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Alligator-Stick-Airbrush-Generic/dp/B00CWRCO6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473748283&sr=8-1&keywords=Paint+clips

You might need more thinner than 32ml.

The HG Age 1 Normal is just in your budget and is considered to have one of the best articulation. It's a good kit for beginners.

genuinely what you should do is this:

Get a set of these(they come with conversion parts so you can mix/match old style and new style kits parts into places they don't normally go) http://www.ebay.com/itm/131333747043?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Also invest in some plastic cement so you can literally fuse pieces together where you need to(it melts and re-solidifies plastic to create a "weld") http://www.amazon.com/Testors-3507AT-Liquid-Plastic-1-Ounce/dp/B00005CA7S/ref=sr_1_6?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1419113907&sr=1-6&keywords=plastic+cement

From this point I'd say get a Build Burning Gundam as your base model(it's one of the newest kits out and supposedly some kind of superkit as far as articulation and balance go) http://amzn.com/B00M1APMU0

Then I'd recommend whatever flavor of Shinlong from Wing is your favorite and a no-grade 1/144 Dragon Gundam from G Gundam http://youtu.be/OczGImiNImo

http://amzn.com/B00067YYA4

This is the tank I got. And this is the airbrush I got. So far they have been working well (only airbrushing for a month). Check out the company's Amazon store or their website for some cheaper item that they might have. Hope it helps.

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-AGE-1-Normal/dp/B0058KSCU2

That's an amazing kit to get for a first one. Elegant build and tons of articulation

Some are typical sales, others are actually pretty good. All have available free shipping. There's still more too.

HG Gafran

HG V2

HG Strike Full package

HG Aile Strike

HG Genoace II

HG Gundam AGE 1

HG Star Build Strike

HG Ez8

HG Zedas

HG Build mkII

HG GM Custom

HG Baqto

HG Shaldoll

HG Gundam Kryios Trans-Am Mode

HG Sengoku Astray

HG Banshee

HG Gold Frame Astray

HG Gundam Airmaster

HG Zaku II

HG Red Frame Astray

HG GM III

HG GM Sniper II

HG Gundam Age 3 Orbital

HG Banshee

HG Jegan

HG Strike Freedom

HG Doven Wolf

HG Banshee Destroy mode

HG Delta Plus

RG Justice

RG Freedom

HG Miss Sazabi

RG Aile Strike

HG Burning Gundam

HG Rozen Zulu

Basically, things sold by Toy shop japan hobbyone tend to be a little cheaper with good shipping. They do have an issue with a few things that appear to not be HGs listed as HGs though.

Hey guys, I'm looking to build my first serious Gunpla here soon (built a bunch when I was a kid) and I want to finish it with a top coat. I've found this item from Mr. Topcoat, which seems good, but I was wondering if there are similar options in larger quantities or for better prices?

So, I saved up some money and have a break from school finally coming up. I see that alot of the badgers are decently priced (i think im going to stay away from the iwata as they are generally over 100). But is there a certain badger that you recommend? the one you originally linked seems like a good one, but is there any details with these other ones that you may have dealt with?

1)

2)

3)

[4)](http://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-200-10-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B003970D3U/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1456908816&sr=8-31&keywords=gravity+feed+airbrush
)

5)

Im sorry for sending a bunch of links, but i'd thought id ask and see what you may say :D

The Gundam Black and Grey markers are ususally the choice tools:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027ORJ10/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0027ORJ10&linkCode=as2&redirect=true&tag=goosgunblo-20

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001VJUWX4/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B001VJUWX4&linkCode=as2&tag=goosgunblo-20

but

A set of Sakura Micron markers does the job just as well, for much less $$$!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0008G8G8Y/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0008G8G8Y&linkCode=as2&tag=goosgunblo-20

If you're looking to color larger areas, I highly suggest getting some bottles of tamiya paint and a hand brush instead. I have found that the paint markers tend to be streaky.

Got one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0038D38AA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It kinda sucks. It has to run constantly even for light painting on Gundams. Also I had to add a fan cause I could smell plastic on it melting after long sessions. Tho it has been running solid for years. I've even forgotten it on many times and its still kicking. Might be overkill, I think it goes to like 60psi, I normally use 20-25.


Happy painting

I use a similar model to this one from the buying guide. This is definitely a bigger option, but I feel like it won't clutter up even a small room. It's about the size of 2 shoeboxes stacked on top of each other and smaller than a PC tower.

Here's my Airbrush History

• 8 Months Experience in Airbrushing (5 Completed Kits & 1 WIP)
  
  
• Started with Iwata NEO CN as my 1st Airbrush.
  
  
• My 1st Compressor was the Master Airbrush w/ Hose & Regulator.
  
  
• Painted 2 kits using the above Airbrush & Compressor using Tamiya Acrylics thinned with 1:1 91% ISO Alcohol. The 2 Kits are MG Strike Freedom & MG Nu Gundam.
  
  
• Bought a 2nd Airbrush which is the Master G23, I personally like it better than the Neo and it even came with 3 Needles and it was cheaper than when I bought the Neo.
  
  
• Painted 2 kits using the Master G23 & Master Compressor is still the same; Used Mr. Color Paints thinned w/ Leveling Thinner. Painted kits we're 1/35 Hi Nu Bust & MG Unicorn Gundam
  
  
• Currently working on a kit using the G23, Master Compressor & Mr. Color paints. Kit is the MG Sword Impulse.
  
  
• I started wearing a Mask, which is the MSA Safety Works Mask cause that shit smells like shit.
  
  
• Got a Spray Booth since I started painting inside. Generic Airbrush Spray Booth
  
  That's pretty much it from my personal experience... If you have any questions let me know and I'll try to answer it for you.
  
  Best part is the total for my Airbrush/Compressor Combo's I both bought under $100.
  
  COPY PASTED FROM MY RESPONSE ELSEWHERE

Buying an airbrush is kind of like buying a guitar. If you buy a super cheap one it's difficult to get any good results out of it and it can put you off for life. So invest a little bit would be my advice.

I can personally recommend the following.

Airbrush: iwata hp-cs - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Eclipse-0-35mm-Action-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B000BQKFAI

Compressor: - https://www.amazon.co.uk/ABEST-Professional-Compressor-Multi-Purpose-Airbrushing/dp/B01I2ZUKYU/ref=sr_1_1?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1538751820&sr=1-1&keywords=airbrush+compressor

The Compressor comes with a cheap airbrush so if you want to try with a cheap one go ahead, but you will want to upgrade sooner or later and that Iwata HP-CS will last a life time if you look after it.

This is also a must - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00RVZG4X4/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B00RVZG4X4&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_p=8e5be0e3-b258-4b06-8b6e-695b24f935a4&pf_rd_r=4PP45CTWFKT5WD7KR20K&pd_rd_wg=pFBRH&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=j5dUp&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=d08662fa-c8af-11e8-a4e7-5f4df7c134b5

​

Thanks just ordered it and it will be my first ver ka. It’s like $40 off on amazon

Bandai Hobby Nu Gundam Version Ka "Char's Counterattack" 1/100 - Master Grade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091O17LM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4i1ACbD041P6Y

Just ordered this too


Bandai Hobby MG 1/100 Sinanju Stein Ver. Ka Model Kit Action Figure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00APB7930/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ln1ACbZY5DJ48

OP what have you done to me

thanks.

My badger compressor uses 'bleed-through' as well. (I think) It always runs no matter what.

I ended up ordering these two.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BROVMK
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004KNAHE2

Thanks for your suggestion!

I must had posted in the wrong section.

I did some research on gunpla before I got ready to invest into it.

So I was wondering what airbrush should I pick up as a beginner.
I'm looking to use these airbrush for everything and finer detailing on models.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BROVIO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451755063&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=badger+20+20&dpPl=1&dpID=31BZaLebDGL&ref=plSrch

The iwata eclipse is a recurring brand I've seen on bunch of blogs and seems to be the most popular

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQKFAI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1451755023&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=iwata+eclipse&dpPl=1&dpID=41EIKj727OL&ref=plSrch

So which one should I buy? Can anyone recommend any of these?

Last at least the air compressor and other parts.
I've also seen this recommended on one blog:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000AQK78/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Apparently it's better then a hobby's air compressor cause of the constant air flow you will get?
I was wondering what kind of hose and connectors I would need for either the badger or iwata if I picked up the air compressor.

Sorry for any spelling or grammar mistakes in advance as I'm typing on my phone.

Iwata HP C Plus airbrush

It is a great airbrush to start with. You need to spend some money because if you go too cheap you will not be able to do fine detail work.

http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Performance-Action-Large-Gravity/dp/B0018A7QJE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449370777&sr=8-2&keywords=iwata+airbrush

Barbatos (HG 1/144)

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Orphans-Barbatos-Iron-Blooded/dp/B0129DW0WG

I did paint the sword and the red marks rather than use stickers as well as the gold accents and panel lines and did the usual matte top coat.

Almost finished with my G Self as well just need the top coat.

This is Topcoat (cost less than this like 10USD) it makes the plastic less glossy ( makes it look way better without having to paint) also protects the plastic and panel linings

Thanks for the info!

So now I'm look at the Iwata Revolution and TC-40T. Do you have any other recommendations for tanked compressors? How do you refill the airtank?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQS3UW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ACD4013XBS5C9&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WBT7PTW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A23ADOZFIJNPFB&psc=1

I really want get into airbrushing my pieces, I wanted to know how consistent this compressor is...https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038D38AA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_xmHjzb3JYF8CN

I'm not looking to break the bank, but I keep seeing mixed reviews with Master compressors.

Thanks

I just picked up a spray booth from Amazon surprisingly cheap and does a good job at not letting the strong smell permeate the space. this is the one I bought

Yeah I have the MG EW of that same kit and my god is it totally different. Here is the Amazon page for it. I didn't pay $40 for it though, but its worth that price.

I use Master Airbrush stuff. I never used the super expensive airbrushes or whatever, and I don't plan on doing so when i can get a everything I need for a complete airbrushing solution for the price of just one airbrush.

I currently use this: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-purpose-Professional-Airbrushing/dp/B006HJCP8S/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1478092330&sr=8-9&keywords=airbrush

However I wish I had gotten one with an airtank and not just a compressor, as the compressor is always running when I'm actually brushing.

I would recommend going with this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0017640RK/ref=pd_sbs_201_3?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0017640RK&pd_rd_r=CS5PGKKXM5455B94V0DA&pd_rd_w=LpOU8&pd_rd_wg=rukUc&psc=1&refRID=CS5PGKKXM5455B94V0DA

It's the same as I am currently using, but comes with an airtank (And that's the lowest price I've seen for it).

If that is a little steep to jump in with, I started with this months ago:

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-MAS-KIT-VC16-B22-Compressor/dp/B00BF0MW9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478092330&sr=8-1&keywords=airbrush

And it has everything you need (minus paint) to get started, It's a great kit to get started, but the lack of a PSI gauge will limit you fairly quickly. And if you upgrade, the airbrush can still be kept moving forward.

Finally got a useful "spam" email from Amazon, here are some of the kits that appear to be on sale.

MG Sandrock - $42.64

MG Heavyarms - $42.40

MG Deathscythe Hell - $48.90

MG Wing Zero Custom - $43.66

MG Shenlong - $41.49

MG Deathscythe - $41.79

MG Wing Ver.Ka - $47.95

MG Wing - $44.29

MG Buster - $47.50

MG Nu Ver.Ka - $72.07

1/144 is the scale of the models. They are 1/144th the size of the gundam from the Anime. 1/1 size would be this in Japan High Grade models come in 1/144 scale, and are generally pretty cheap. Here is the High Grade Build Burning Gundam. The Real Grade line is also 1/144. Real Grades have the complexity of Master Grades in the size of a high grade. Here's one of them. High Grades usually take around 3-5 hours to complete. Real grades usually take 9-12 hours, and Master Grades usually take 12-20+ hours depending on if you are painting it.

Surprisingly, HGs are the models you are looking for when it comes to an entry level deal. They are usually inexpensive, and often times get you quality like this for a straight build

Man, I am having a Hakumen vibe from the Zedas. I am tempted to get it to make a custom.

Edit: Do not get the Advanced Grade option if you are already looking at HGs as an option. It is not to the same quality as the HG. It does not have the same level of articulation that HGs have.

http://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Alligator-Stick-Airbrush-Hobby/dp/B00CWRCO6M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417441276&sr=8-2

I bought these and they are pretty decent

Thanks! I've looked at a few spray booths, specifically this one. Any recommendations?

Hey everyone!

I'm as new as it gets. So, I made a shopping list after doing some research on everything that I think I need to start. I'll place the links to all the items in the lines below. Everything is on Amazon because... well why not?

Gundam

Glue

Marker

Tweezers

Knife

Cutters

Mat

More Markers!

*Krylon Matte Finish

Am I missing anything?

I use gundam panel lining pens, like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HY8JI7C/ref=twister_B01N8TDZIM?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 - black

https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Point-Gundam-Marker/dp/B006B3YYZM/ref=pd_bxgy_21_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B006B3YYZM&pd_rd_r=WF27RX3KPCKMWVEPFH2E&pd_rd_w=5XjyC&pd_rd_wg=XTRl0&psc=1&refRID=WF27RX3KPCKMWVEPFH2E - grey

Jeeze, It feels like i'm biting off more than i can chew with this lol.

Would this get me most of what I need?
http://www.amazon.com/AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR--Airbrush-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449424905&sr=8-2&keywords=tcp+airbrush+compressor

and I think I'm going to go with this for the actual brush:
http://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Performance-Action-Large-Gravity/dp/B0018A7QJE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449370777&sr=8-2&keywords=iwata+airbrush

Thanks for the suggestion! Saw a few people complain about that unit getting too hot so I spent a little more to get their TC-40T model which has a built in fan.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WBT7PTW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-AGE-1-Normal/dp/B0058KSCU2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381629672&sr=8-1&keywords=gundam+age

Its at 15 right now, and one of the better HG kits in terms of engineering and complexity.

lol my bad.yeah i mixed up the wing zero with the wing.i meant the mg wing gundam.

this kit:
http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-Action-Figure/dp/B004KJ41F2/ref=pd_sim_21_12?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Bxuo7BQBL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1NSFW98PCKPTNXK80Y4C

GM01 Black Fine Line https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00HY8JI7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eExyybGVJ187W

Gundam Marker GM02 Gray Fine Tip GUNPLA https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B006B3YYZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_RHxyybAA0VTDA

Grey on white and light colours black on darker colours

I see two different Iwata Eclipse listed on Amazon with a price difference of $5? Whats the difference and which one should I get?

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https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Eclipse-Hp-Cs-W-Airhose/dp/B00695CY54/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1540928163&sr=8-2&keywords=iwata+eclipse&dpID=51odG-D4KWL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

​

and

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https://www.amazon.com/d/Airbrush-Materials/Iwata-Medea-Eclipse-Action-Airbrush-Gravity/B000BQKFAI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540928163&sr=8-3&keywords=iwata+eclipse

I can't say the product is terribly durable but mine is still going two years later, crack a window and point the hose outside

Folds up nicely if you are in a small space, put a sheet of cardboard down under it overspray tends to sneak thru the seams where it folds sometimes

https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Spray-Extractor-Crafts-Figurines/dp/B004ZH7RSM

You're looking for something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Water-Trap/dp/B004KNAHE2/

It's almost the same as mine.

Like the other guy said, the kit is the Gunpla starter set 2 of the HG78 G30th. I wanted something relatively easy/inexpensive and it came with a gundam marker and extra booklet. If you wanna check it out, it got it here.

I am hoping someone can help me here, as it has been a long time since I have watched Gundam Wing. I am looking to build all the main Gundams from Wing. I found [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Gundam-Heavyarms-Master-Grade/dp/B006F9CFWQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501597334&sr=8-1&keywords=gundam+wing+heavyarms), I am assuming that the EW means Endless Waltz, but I always remember the EW version looking like this. Am I just remembering things wrong?

Just grab a Barbatos and a Graze. I think I'm going to start another graze now myself =P

Or if you want to apreciate how far bandai has come with the kits, grab a Barbatos and The old HGUC Gun Cannon or RGM-79 kit

You're right! Thanks for the warning I found it from another source for about $13 CDN

Here

Has a 93% positive rating as a source

EDIT: Rip I forgot about shipping, since it's less then 20 I have to pay for shipping :(

He is only like $35 on Amazon and is Prime also, not bad at all right now. It wasn't that fun of a kit, the shield and shoulder pieces were the only thing that was "unique." Although you have to put on mega decals lol (the shoulders in particular have a stupid amount of decal on them as you can see in my pictures lol).

My issue is I am not comfortable with the hobby knife, I feel like I have to put to much pressure into removing the nub even with a fresh blade. I will do the alligator trick, would these clips be to large for the method you suggest, some parts seem to small with those clips. Also I make my own sanding sticks but I do have a few sheets of sandpaper left so I will start cutting strips for other kits. Would you recommend I go higher than 2,000? I go 1,000 < 1,500 < 2,000 < Nail Buffer Block < Nail Polish and Shine. But I still see some marks after all this which makes me think I need a higher grit or maybe a fresh stick.

Besides the obvious aesthetic differences, they come from two different interpretations of the events in UC 0093. Nu Gundam comes from the Gundam movie Mobile Suit Gundam: Char's Counter Attack, whereas Hi-Nu comes from the novel series Mobile Suit Gundam: Char's Counter Attack - Beltorchika's Children.

I do not know the full details of Beltorchika's Children, but its basically Tomino's original story for Char's Counterattack.

• Hi-Nu on Amazon
  
  
• Nu on Amazon
  
  and on a side note, the first kit of the RE/100 line, Nightingale, is Char's suit in Beltorchika's Children. Hi-Nu's counterpart, and Sazabi's parallel.

Hose (I'm using it with an iwata eclipse): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01KDNSU4G/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Moisture trap/second regulator: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004KNAHE2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I highly recommend a moisture trap with another regulator on it like that. It will give you fine control over the pressure. This one is a knock off of a few others that look/function exactly the same. The psi readout seems a little funny as pressure drops a full 10 psi when you start the air, but it doesn't seem to affect anything.

As for adapters, I needed a quick release tip, connected to an adapter, connected to a nipple (to extend the moisture trap further out because it touches the air tank), connected to the trap, connected to an adapter for the hose, connected to the hose. I can take a pic later if you'd like.

It would be this one if you buy from Amazon.

I recently started to gather a startup airbrush supplies and tools.


I purchase some alligator clips from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CWRCO6M/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484095804&sr=sr-1&keywords=alligator+clips)

while waiting for my other supplies to arrive i realize i didn't have any styofoam laying around to use as a base given that most stuff is packed using inflated air bags now. while i was watching some airbrush guide on youtube it gave me idea

Personally I think the MG Nu ver Ka is an excellent kit that anyone would be excited as hell to get.

If you want black lines you can't beat Micron pens from Sakura. You can find them at most Michaels or online, http://www.amazon.com/Sakura-30062-6-Piece-Pigma-Micron/dp/B0008G8G8Y

For the black, do you think this is a better alternative then the black gundam marker ?http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0008G8G8Y/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&me=

Looking for opinion on an airbrush to buy narrowed it down to these three.

Iwata HP-CS

Iwata Revolution CR

Paasche TG-3F

http://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-TC-20T-AIRBRUSH-COMPRESSOR-REGULATOR/dp/B0038D38AA/ref=pd_sbs_201_32?ie=UTF8&dpID=51h04myW%2BCL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1XGWB6ZRYTFGTFFCB968

So could you explain the difference between these two versions?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004KJ41F2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_dUbHwbVC5A09C

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00030EUTY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_wXbHwbGT0ES4S

attach this to your compressor.

http://www.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Water-Trap/dp/B004KNAHE2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

http://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Water-Trap-Filter/dp/B004KNAHE2/ref=sr_1_2?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1411683902&sr=1-2&keywords=airbrush+regulator

that's the one? https://www.amazon.es/Bandai-Hobby-Gunpla-Starter-Set/dp/B004L21CMI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519399472&sr=8-1&keywords=GUNDAM+Ver.+G+30th

Non-mobile: this is the one I bought

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

I got this.

mg sandrock

http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B005ED3PAU/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new&qid=1381442380&sr=1-1

Are you talking about this?

This one, I'm guessing.

Hi,

I am new to gunpla and was looking to get the heavyarms MG kit and found 2 that I think are the same but with very different prices.

https://www.usagundamstore.com/products/mg-1-100-gundam-heavyarms-ew-ver

and

https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Gundam-Heavyarms-Master-Grade/dp/B006F9CFWQ/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=gundam+heavyarms+mg&qid=1567495174&s=toys-and-games&sr=1-1


Is it normal that there are such big price differences between the same set? or are they not the same set? usagundamstore seems a legit store ( even the reddit has it listed as a place to buy ).

The biggest/best detailed version of the HeavyArms is simply the 1/100 MG EW version. It's actually on discount now for 39.50:

http://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Gundam-Heavyarms-Master-Grade/dp/B006F9CFWQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381729999&sr=8-2&keywords=heavy+arms

https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Professional-Master-Multi-Purpose-Airbrushing/dp/B006HJCP8S?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5
This is the one i bought

Is this the new Nu in question?

Is it this one? https://www.amazon.com/Bandai-Hobby-Gundam-Version-Counterattack/dp/B0091O17LM

I think this matches better

I wouldn't recommend spraying them while they're still on the runners. When you remove them, you'll have to sand down the nubs and paint over that area. Would work better if you got some of these and a small block of styrofoam to stand them up in. Then you can remove pieces, sand the nubs, and paint the whole piece at once.

I use Testors brand paint for most of my car models, haven't done much gunpla for a while, but I'm getting back to that and am going to try out my Testors spray cans on one.

Considering going into airbrushing but not sure if I should build a DIY booth or buy a portable one. I just wanted to hear some experiences with either and was wondering how often I would need to replace filters/how difficult is it to replace the filters on a portable booth (including finding new parts + installing said parts)

PS. I was interested in this booth
https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-Spray-Booth-Paint-Extractory/dp/B004ZH7RSM

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBHSH&P=FR&gclid=Cj0KEQjwqfvABRC6gJ3T_4mwspoBEiQAyoQPkWrWvGcsUnDlXwc7YDyRd3nDDG2nTq77FV5Rve5hTnYaAis48P8HAQ

This set comes with one. The big downside to this one is the solid white beam saber.

Bandai Hobby Gunpla Starter Set 2: Gundam Ver G30th, Bandai HGUC Action Figure https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004L21CMI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HE9hybVWSE80J

Edit to add extra link

I'm also planning on buying one and from what I looked into, first image is an earlier version, around 2004.

bigger image You can see the year if you zoom in.

and the 2nd image is a newer version, maybe 2010+ since the other ew are at around 2012.

There's a review in amazon about it that lists the difference, not sure if this is true or accurate though.

I'll see if anyone else says anything about this as I want to know too if there are any major differences in each but that's what I know about these 2 for now.

I'm just confused because I was also looking to purchase this Heavy Arms model https://www.amazon.ca/Bandai-Gundam-Heavyarms-Master-Grade/dp/B006F9CFWQ/ref=pd_sbs_21_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B006F9CFWQ&pd_rd_r=19feedf4-ce90-11e8-8978-638753c50467&pd_rd_w=LulPe&pd_rd_wg=tTOYe&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&pf_rd_p=d4c8ffae-b082-4374-b96d-0608daba52bb&pf_rd_r=VK8E9WC0E8R39FN9P253&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=VK8E9WC0E8R39FN9P253

and they are only charging $60 CAD for it.

Sakura Pigma Micron pens! Unfortunately they only come in black (and some other colours, but nothing too useful for Gunpla), but the quality is indisputable. You can probably find them in any hobby/arts/crafts store. The 02 or 01 is probably the only size you'd need.

The reason why /u/triviper said it's about $200+ to start airbrushing is because you need not just the airbrush, but the compressor, moisture trap, hose, and adaptors if you're buying everything separately and want a setup that will last you a long time.

My setup isn't the best, but I got

• the Neo for Iwata airbrush - $48 at hoby lobby
  
• badger 80-2 compressor on ebay - ~$60 when I bought mine
  
• 10 ft hose with 1/8" fittings - $10
  
• [moisture trap - $13](https://smile.amazon.com/PointZero-Airbrush-Compressor-Regulator-Water-Trap/dp/B004KNAHE2/ref=sr_1_1?
  *ie=UTF8&qid=1469082512&sr=8-1&keywords=moisture+trap)
  
• hose adaptor -$8; not sure what the fitting was, you'll have to research what size the attachment is for the airbrush and the hose
  
• thread seal tape; my dad had this already -$6
  
  Total = ~$145
  
  Hope this helps. Brings me back to when I was researching all this for myself.
  
  My setup isn't the best, but it's the bare minimum that I was comfortable with. Two years later and I'm still using the same stuff except I got a spray booth and respirator since I'm using lacquers now
  
  /u/MacdougalLi /u/xhui /u/arkanoid2520
  
  Edit: my bad, this doesn't factor into the paint, alligator clips, and various topcoats. Note that I had all of the former because I started out with spray cans. The cost will probably go up to $170 - $200 depending on what you also get

There really are no pros of tankless compressor compared to one with a tank. A tankless one will run hotter and louder because it has to constantly run in order to maintain air pressure. The airflow is also more irregular which makes detail work with a airbrush much more annoying.

The first link is a airbrush ready compressor with a tank that should do what you need it to. The second is compressor that would need some fittings, hose, and moisture trap in order to work with airbrushing. The second one has the advantage of being a bigger tank and more horsepower so it would have to turn on for shorter amounts of time to fill the tank and you can go longer with the bigger tank before the compressor has to kick in again.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Model-TC-40T-Single-Piston/dp/B00WBT7PTW/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=airbrush+compressor&qid=1570806689&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/California-Air-Tools-CAT-1P1060S-Compressor/dp/B01LYHYHEA/ref=sr_1_6?crid=2HGLY5E1Q5YZ0&keywords=hitachi%2Bair%2Bcompressor&qid=1570807162&sprefix=hitachi%2Bair%2Caps%2C183&sr=8-6&th=1&psc=1

In terms of starter compressors, this is the one usually recommended.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0038D38AA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_xmHjzb3JYF8CN
This has both a pressure gauge and moisture trap along with a tank. Only issue is you may need to buy a different size hose and/or adaptor as airbrushes vary in connector size and not sure if it would fit the one you have. The reason for a tank is that it allows for a more constant air pressure as air is coming from the tank reserve and not directly from the compressor which can give some variance on your pressure as you spray which can affect your paint job. It also takes load off the compressor as they will generally sleep once the tank is full and pressure is met therefore extending the life of the compressor as it won't be constantly on as you spray.