(Part 2) Top products from r/UsbCHardware

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We found 34 product mentions on r/UsbCHardware. We ranked the 224 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

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Top comments that mention products on r/UsbCHardware:

u/chx_ · 1 pointr/UsbCHardware

My dock writeup is always useful if you need more understanding of what's going on but my answer below is standalone.

So 4k @ 60 and gigabit Ethernet can't happen on a single cable without Thunderbolt. (Well, kind of can because USB 2.0 to gigabit Ethernet is sold but it's not going to be 1000 mbit/s when USB 2.0 is 480 mbit/s.)

So yes, your best bet is to use a USB C to HDMI 2.0 adapter and a simple USB C hub with gigabit + a few USB A ports. One of them needs to support power. Now, the super cheap and compact gigabit-A hubs don't support power however the price difference in PD HDMI 2.0 vs non PD is very small thus we will put the power in the monitor adapter.

  1. Cable Matters 4 Port USB C Hub Ethernet
  2. CHOETECH USB C to HDMI Adapter([email protected]) with PD Charging or if you want it in a single cable, similar price Type C to HDMI Cable(4K*[email protected]),CHOETECH 6ft/ 1.8m Type C to HDMI PD Cable. It's a matter of preference really: do you want the charger to be close to the laptop or is it fine on the monitor -- the cable puts the charger circuit in the HDMI plug.

    That's 52-55 CAD altogether.

    > Hopefully a new one would be small and light, I liked how those Dart chargers that came out a couple years ago looked

    I've promised to bring over my wikipost from flyertalk to this subreddit, hopefully this weekend, until then read it over there, it has a list of the small chargers. If by Canada you mean Vancouver, BC then I can show you the Mu One before you shell out the considerably money for it. Or if it's really the Finsix dart you want, the Innergie 60C is your best bet.
u/Raxmite · 2 pointsr/UsbCHardware

There are brands that make cables shorter such as this one but they seem like they’re cheap cables. My purpose for the cable is to use it to connect my phone to my car, and I want to make sure I’m getting a trusted cable.

u/Dr_rer_pol · 1 pointr/UsbCHardware

I don't have particular experience with RCA, but 3.5mm. As 3.5mm dongles exist and are known to work well and RCA is the same technology (i.e., in terms of chips used). I'd say purchasing the adapter you linked therefore is relatively safe, given the relatively reasonable price. Otherwise as you said, just buy a 3.5mm dongle and an adapter like this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B2HP1FY. Or consider a Bluetooth receiver with a line out - depending on your circumstances this may be even more feasible.

u/Chaphasilor · 3 pointsr/UsbCHardware

What you are looking for is a dock with HDMI 2.0, as HDMI 2.0 does support 1080p at 120Hz+.

If you know that, it's more than easy to find one that fits your needs...

Like this dock from Promise Technology

u/tricky020 · 3 pointsr/UsbCHardware

Yeah I will probably end up using an HDMI cable but then I would have two cables coming from the monitor (one HDMI cable from the monitor to the hub and a second USB-C cable coming from the monitor to the hub).

I guess I have been watching too much Setup Wars on YouTube and was hoping for just one USB-C hub that everything could connect to. Purely aesthetic reasons only. Something like this would be great if it was not so expensive.


u/DesignForDummies · 3 pointsr/UsbCHardware

This isn't quite as small as you are looking for but it's a good size for what you get. Definitely pocket-able. I carry it with me in my briefcase everywhere I go.


u/jcpb · 3 pointsr/UsbCHardware

I wish I have an answer to this, because even Anker has problems at the 60W+ front. The most helpful review is a 1-star and it said that charger fried the USB-C port on the user's MBP - YIKES. Google's wall chargers only go up to 45W.

For your in-ears: Innergie's MagiCable will adapt any USB-C cable to micro-USB, negating the need to buy a separate USB-C to micro-USB legacy cable. It's technically a device itself though, so the USB-C charger/power bank will become active and start supplying power. It's also limited to about 5V 2A.

For the wall chargers: if Lenovo does anything funny with their laptops, any wall chargers you have will need 60W minimum or they simply won't charge. Apple's MBP will pretty much charge off any USB-C though, just more slowly, and the laptop has to be asleep (lid closed) or off.

Nekteck 65W
Nekteck 60W
RAVPower 60W w/ GaN

Innergie 60C if price is no object

I wouldn't recommend any Apple stock chargers unless it updates their 61W and 87W to do the full USB PD voltage ranges - even if it does, price is a problem on both.

For power banks: ideally they should have two 60W capable USB-C ports, one of them being input+output; and 1-2 USB-A ports for everything else. That's pretty hard to find and they certainly won't come cheap. If you limit that to one USB-C, that might be a bit easier to find.

mophie's 3XL can only do 45W, that might not work for the Yoga
Goal Zero has it all, but it's large, heavy, and very expensive; lesser version with one 60W USB-C and no AC inverter
J-Go Tanker Xtreme w/ 100W PD

u/queuebitt · 2 pointsr/UsbCHardware

I have a Plugable USB-C power meter and a MakerHawk USB Multimeter Tester.

The Plugable I got doesn't match the pictures, but works just the same. It does stick to a USB-C port and in pulling it out its housing sometimes comes loose. It snaps back in place so I'm use to it. It is bare bones but good for a quick voltage/current reading.

The MakerHawk is my new standard power meter for my reviews. It displays more info, has customizable alerts (beep if over 20.1V or 3.1A), and does USB-C and USB-A. I got the Bluetooth model and use it with Windows software listed on the Amazon page. I ended up getting a micro-USB extension cable so I could plug in the included Bluetooth chip with bulkier chargers. The Windows software reads the meter fine and has a nice graph for over time testing. My mix of Bluetooth components (USB dongle on the PC) means the PC can't talk back to the meter. If it did I could reset the meter's numbers and make changes via the PC. From reviews the lack of "write" from the PC is common, so don't count on it. You can see screenshots of the software in one of my newer reviews.

u/BlazerOrb · 2 pointsr/UsbCHardware

Deciding between CableCreations hub for the braided cable, and Cable Matters hub for the plastic body.

All of those chargers seem decent. I like the price of the RAV charger. I've only had a need for international plugs once in my life, but it's not impossible. The space savings on the RAV might do it though. I would definitely choose the Innergie for the form factor and the power if it weren't double the price, but now it's a toss up.

Also just saw this Dart-style charger on Amazon.com, $27 USD for chinese 60W 3.07" x 1.53" x 1.1" charger, vs. Innergie $110 USD 60W 2.36" x 1.18” x 1.18". Both ship to Canada, but hilariously cost $224CAD and $91CAD on amazon.ca.

u/saiyate · 1 pointr/UsbCHardware

macbook or macbook pro? Thunderbolt 3 or just USBC?

it should work even on a 2016 macbook (non-pro) but depends on dock and cables

must have HDMI 2.0 Display

must have certified USBC to HDMI 2.0 cable

this is why displayport is better, any DP inputs on that monitor?

this explains it

and also from apple

why not go direct from HDMI on dock? is this ur dock?

u/levoniust · 1 pointr/UsbCHardware

I'm not asking to break the laws of nature. I just don't want one that has a outlet on it. I have this one.

USB C Battery Pack RAVPower 20100 Portable Charger with QC 3.0 Qualcomm Quick Charge 3.0, 20100mAh Input & Output Type C Power Bank for Nintendo Switch, iPhone, 12-inch MacBook, Galaxy and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019IFIJW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M2FDCbEQSY6NJ

And love it but when I look for one that can charge my laptop via USB pd they get 2-3 times the size. I just want one about that size.

u/FabledFrost · 2 pointsr/UsbCHardware

The USB-A to 3.5mm isn't quite what you are thinking. That is for converting digital to analog and it's for making 3.5mm work on digital ports. https://smile.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatible/dp/B00NMXY2MO

I don't think anyone makes what you need. It'd be easier to return/sell your headphones and get a 3.5mm pair.

u/Fertyl · 2 pointsr/UsbCHardware

May be You can try this way :

  1. AmazonBasics USB 3.0 Extension Cable - A-Male to A-Female - 3.3 Feet (1 Meter)


  2. 2 Pack USB-C USB 3.1 Type C Female to USB 3.0 A Male Adapter Converter Support Data Sync & Charging


  3. USB C to USB 3.0 Adapter


u/Agalino · 2 pointsr/UsbCHardware

I mean connector used in this case:


Every time I try to identify it I end with "mini", it's definitely not standard micro like in most phones, Kindle, etc.

u/Teaquilla · 1 pointr/UsbCHardware

It's not flat but it is small and it meets the other requirements

NOVOO PowerCube Mini,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K18LV6K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/omarshahine · 1 pointr/UsbCHardware

Anker PowerCore 10000 PD, 10000mAh Portable Charger USB-C Power Delivery (18W) Power Bank for iPhone 8/8+/X/XS/XR/XS Max, Samsung Galaxy S10, Pixel 3/3XL, iPad Pro 2018, and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HBTY3Z2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ssPsDbKYSTG5P

u/Clown_corder · 1 pointr/UsbCHardware

This is the one I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DCTHWPR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_j6sQBbYRAN88J

It's build quality is not the best (connector is a bit wobble) but it's been accurate so far.

u/namdude0373 · 1 pointr/UsbCHardware

I have this and I like it! The loop may not work well for your needs though:

SanDisk 32GB Ultra Dual Drive USB Type-C - USB-C, USB 3.1 - SDDDC2-032G-G46 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZ0X23W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mEzqDbQPZYF8D

u/LaughingMan11 · 18 pointsr/UsbCHardware

Never ever use these kinds of cables. For ANYTHING. If you have one, cut the tips off of each of the plugs to disable the cable, and throw it in the trash.

These cables violate the USB-C specification, the USB 2.0 specification, Apple's Lightning specification, all at the same time.

Cables have two ends only. One end goes to a power source, the other end goes to a power sink. Devices and hosts are provided this assurance by the specifications.

A power supply communicates its power limitation to the device it's attached to assuming a point to point relationship, not a TREE of devices all behaving independently.

The baseline power that something can draw in USB 2.0 is 500mA. Say you have one of these octopus monstrosities plugged into your PC's 500mA USB-A port. Then you start plugging in your phones.

If you plug in 4 phones, and they are tricked by the cable to draw the basic 500mA, suddenly you have 2A flowing out of your computer's 500mA port. That means your computer's USB-A may be damaged.

These cables are complete trash. Never use one.


If you want something that has data capability, then you need a hub, for example this: https://www.amazon.com/C2G-Cables-27402-4-Port-Inches/dp/B000LWX6U8

The hub has active components, and is able to signal to the USB devices attached to it to not draw more than 100mA when it's bus powered.