(Part 3) Top products from r/ageofsigmar

The base! Sure, here's a quick guide;

So, the material that the rock is made of, is Plaster of Paris (you can find it just about anywhere, but here it is on Amazon). It can seem a little intimidating to start working with, but I promise it's very accessible. That material was shaped with rock molds from Woodland Scenics (this one and this one). Takes something like 30 minutes to do each batch, don't be afraid of failure and remember to spray the mold with Wet Water before putting the plaster in.

Once you have your rocks, you'll need to sand down the flat end, and super glue them to your bases. Next will be to use Vallejo Earth Texture to blend it all together.

Hit with some prime, then paint the rock grey, the dirt brown. Dry brush the whole thing with a light blue, then bring down the whole thing with one wash, I used Agrax Earthshade. Dry brush the dirt brown, then the whole thing light blue again, then the sun facing side of the rocks white. You're done painting!

You might want to put some grass on the dirt, your call, I happened to use these because they're tonally appropriate, though over-sized-- so I cut some up. Then you'll want to spot some Vallejo Snow, or whatever snow you want to use.

I pinned my guys to the rocks, but the the Vallejo Snow also works really well as a method for securing your boys, since it's pretty much just glue.

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I hope this helps and I'm thrilled you like it!

I bought this assortment of magnets which comes in different sizes. A lot of people take a small hand drill like this and will drill a small hole which they fill with green stuff and stick the magnet to so it rests a bit more flush. I haven't finished putting my mortarch together yet so I can't say for sure the best size of magnet to use, but I would imagine the smaller size would work fine.

Magnetizing really helps with almost any model. I'm working on magnetizing Hexwraiths/Black Knights so I can switch between the two when I want to play ghosts or skeletons. My wife has the Daughters of Khaine Bloodwrack Shrine/Cauldron of Blood and she's magnetizing that so she can have the Shrine, Hag Queen on Cauldron, standalone Hag Queen, standalone Medusa, and Standalone Avatar of Khaine. Just tons of different combinations for her. But I would recommend looking up videos on how to magnetize models and see what you can do.

For better painting, especially on the Stormcast side, do sub-assemblies and for gaming before you have completely finished paintjob, stick the models together with blue-tac/poster putty - get this shit anyways, great for sticking wash pots to table so you don't flip them on your table/carpet etc. Another tip - if you cannot remove remains of the blue tac from model by hand, use a bigger blue-tac ball to remove it.

Subassemblies before painting:
Liberators - Hands with shields kept separate, add with bluetac before model is finished for playing

Retributors - "backpacks" kept separate for better access to back area. Possibly weapons as well for access to the front.

Prosecutors - wings removed if possible for painting them separately (way better handling) and access to the whole model, especially the Prime model has somehow very stupid wing placement.

Lord-Celestant on Dracoth - generaly not really much possibility for subassembly at all :(

Relictor - just glue this shit together, you can access anything on the mini

Chaos - in general I don't think there is any need for sub-assemblies, as the models have generaly open poses allowing great access for painting. However, Korghos Khul might be a good idea to keep him separate from the lord (blue tac) and therefore both models separate from base (blue tac).

By the way, I generally use bluetac to attach models to bases for playing, as bases are usually the last thing I paint/customize to match the whole paintscheme.

I use this stuff. A bit pricey, but can be found at lower prices than Amazon if you look around. Works great. Nice flat finish. (If you want certain parts to be shiny you will need to go over them afterward with 'Ard Coat or some other gloss medium.)

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Top-Coat-Flat-Spray/dp/B0000WS12C

For mold lines, I use an x-acto knife and just scrape across the lines. Something like this.

I also use some hobby files for the sprue bits and smoothing.

Before I got an airbrush, I used to prime with the Testors flat black spray paint. Make sure you don't spray too close to the mini and do it in short, quick bursts to preserve model detail.

You could prime with Retributor gold spray for stormcast but I personally would prime black and then paint gold. Metallics seem to shine better when painted over black IMO.

you can probably find the wire cutters at walmart too, I think I bought a pack that had a mix of pliers and other things with the clippers. These were recommended on some thread a while back.

Amazon Link

The exacto knife doesn't matter, you'll be using it to cut off excess sprue and scrape mold lines off so if its smaller that'd be best, maybe like pencil size. Mine has some ridges on the handle that doubles as a file too.

Do not buy paint from GW then, the only interesting paints to buy from GW are technicals (snow effect, blood effect, metallic effects, etc...) and shades. For the rest, just buy some classic acrylic paint, make yourself a wet palette (very easy to do) and then do your own mix of paints.

Also...make sure you're using a good regulator/moisture trap like this https://www.amazon.com/Paasche-R-75-Regulator-Moisture-Trap/dp/B000BR2STI

I use this and it is great. https://www.amazon.com/Testors-3507AT-Liquid-Plastic-1-Ounce/dp/B00005CA7S/ref=lp_2236128011_1_5?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1500526695&sr=1-5

sorry meant i use glorious gold from this link


https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Game-Color-Glorious-Paint/dp/B000PH7NVC


with airbrush for base coat then drybrush with vallejo model color gold
the product from this link


https://www.amazon.com/Vallejo-Gold-Model-Color-Paint/dp/B000PH9JU0

sorry i cant find from vallejo website

If you don't mind non-GW minis look for a board game that comes with lots of zombie minis that are not too non-fantasy. Zombies!!! maybe; they look like this when painted. Don't use bright colors on the clothes, there's your army of shambling corpses.

Look at getting a nano paint pen. It makes eyes a lot easier. https://www.amazon.com/GSI-Creos-Gundam-Marker-Markers/dp/B0009AFN4Y

Yeah.

Basecoat with a dark gray, highlighed with two lighter shades of gray and then a black wash. Re-highlight with watered down paint.

Weathered with this. Added some oxide technical paints.

Blues are just started with dark colors and brought lighter and lighter with a light white blue mix for the middle.

I used a small piece of sponge to add the greens and ochre colors. Finally I painted small black cracks and highlighted some edges with white-grey mixture.

THIS: https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-87038-Extra-Thin-Cement/dp/B000BMYWYC

Is the glue you will want to get, hands down. All the models are plastics, and there is no better plastic glue than the one I linked.

On what? The model or the bird?
For the whole model, I used this: DecoArt 12-Ounce Americana Acrylic Sealer/Finish Aerosol Spray, Matte https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XZTDR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_W6aPDb9DKFTV2

For the bird, I just used GW ardcoat. Use it first, then spray seal.

GANZTON Airbrush Compressor Kit Dual Action Airbrush Suit with Adjustable Pressure Compressor 0.4mm Nozzle and Needle and 2CC Dual Action Spray Airbrush Gun for Makeup,Tattoos,Cake Decorating,Crafts https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07SYVFGKV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FZZRDb30FFXTX


Doesn't have to be expensive or take up alot of room :)

Confirmation bias. Really can't argue with someone who refuses to acknowledge evidence contrary to their own opinion. Being "very unusual" is not the same as being simply legend/myth/fiction... Furthermore to dismiss an entire book for mistakenly reading one line and thinking that it reinforces your incorrect point... Well that's just confirmation bias at it's best isn't it?

Tomoe Gozen was a real person, not simply some fictional story that gained traction and many people began rewriting it because it was simply a cool story. MANY Historical figures have been romanticized in fiction, that doesn't erase them from history, that's silly.
https://www.amazon.com/Encyclopedia-Harvard-University-Reference-Library/dp/0674007700/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=japan+encyclopedia&qid=1554842016&s=gateway&sr=8-1

As an aside, you're a fool if you think being ready to die is no indication of readiness to kill.
Being ready to die goes completely hand in hand with being ready to go kill another person in combat where a possible outcome very may well be that you will die. If you aren't ready to die, which is really the ultimate form of personal risk, then you are less likely to stride into combat against inconceivable odds. That's how you rally the troops, convince them to die for your country, queen, god, daimyo, honor, family, land, etc.. etc... etc.. Give them a reason to fight a reason to die, otherwise what good will they be in the battle to come if they aren't ready to die for something. (might be less relevant in modern armies with artillery, aircraft, drones etc..., but relevant back
then to all societies waging war.)


Wives of samurai in feudal Japan were known to wield weapons and have been trained in combat to various extents... and not only in Japan. Throughout the world. I find it vain to try to conclude otherwise.


Would love to see what research sources you used to conclude that a samurai's wife would never be trained in combat, with the blade they carried with them to protect their honor and their families honor... not to mention their house and child while the husband was away on duty. Women will fight, it's not an absurd notion and its happened throughout history in all corners of the globe. Just because it's uncommon doesn't mean it's fiction, and just because something/someone is fictionalized, doesn't mean there isn't a root of historical accuracy.

confirmation bias, my dude.