Reddit Reddit reviews Tamiya 87038 Extra Thin Cement Glue Fine Tip 40ml

We found 58 Reddit comments about Tamiya 87038 Extra Thin Cement Glue Fine Tip 40ml. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Toys & Games
Hobby Tool Glues
Hobby Building Tools & Hardware
Tamiya 87038 Extra Thin Cement Glue Fine Tip 40ml
Tamiya Extra-Thin CementItem Weight: 2.1 ouncesThe pointed applicator tip makes it easy to put the cement where desired.This cement is extremely useful when gluing plastic parts to a desired position when holding in place together.The thin cement flows smoothly between the gaps of the fitted parts by capillary action.
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58 Reddit comments about Tamiya 87038 Extra Thin Cement Glue Fine Tip 40ml:

u/harveymushman · 9 pointsr/modelmakers

Tamiya make a good Willys Jeep - the more recent version is item # 35219. Amazon link. Get him some Tamiya extra thin cement, an x-acto knife, and consider a starter set of model paints. For brush painting I suggest Vallejo Model Color paints - basic colors for the jeep would be something like black, white, olive drab green and a brown.

u/Xyes · 7 pointsr/AnimeFigures

You could also buy some Tamiya glue. That way if any other plastic items of yours breaks, you can fix it.

u/windupmonkeys · 7 pointsr/modelmakers

Airfix and Revell Germany both make starter sets.



  3. (two in one box)

    This set of larger planes might also be a good choice if the idea is to go for a "bigger" present.


    These packages include paint, glue, and a paintbrush. Honestly, the paint isn't great. But as a first time lark, (1) he's likely going to build an imperfect model, (2) he'll probably still have fun doing it.

    For further information as to basic toolkits and commonly asked questions, see the FAQ and stickied posts.

    Short version: craft knife like an X-acto knife, glue, paintbrush, maybe a sanding stick or two (manicure boards of various grits would work for this), tweezers.

    Also, I would recommend this as glue:

    It's designed to flow into the joints of plastic parts and essentially weld them together. It works much better than the tube glues that will be included in those sets.

    As for the kinds of results one might be able to expect if one takes time and is careful:

    Speak with u/pukit about it as well, that's his model using nothing more than what's included in the box of one of the starter kits I linked.

    It's a good first dip.

    Hope that helps.
u/yoda17 · 6 pointsr/modelmakers

Use good glue like the kind that comes with a precision applicator or a liquid glue for joining shell halves or panels. Watch a few youtube videos on gluing.

Do not use the crappy tube glue.

u/Taboobat · 5 pointsr/KingdomDeath

The 3 things you need are:

  • something to cut the pieces off the sprue -- an exacto knife will work, but flush cutters are easier to work with.
  • an adhesive -- super glue works, but plastic cement is better.
  • something to remove sprue nubs/mold lines from the plastic -- an exacto knife can work again here, but I prefer needle files. Much harder to make an error than when using a knife.

    That's pretty much it. If you want to dive in really deep I have a massive post that lists other tools and touches on a lot of customization that people have done. But none of that's mandatory, you can very easily forge ahead with just the 3 tools I linked above.
u/soojet · 5 pointsr/modelmakers

A favorite of mine and a lot of people on this sub is Tamiya Extra Thin Cement:

This stuff is great for small parts, it has a very small applicator brush built in. The regular Tamiya Cement is also good stuff, it just has a bigger brush and is much thicker. The regular cement is more for larger pieces.

u/Wizzle-Stick · 5 pointsr/modelmakers

MEK is SUPER dangerous to use. if the fumes get in your eyes, you go blind. get it on your skin and it can cause all sorts of other issues like nervous system complications. its seriously that dangerous.
it works well for welding abs plastic as it works on the molecular level to bond the pieces together. has use in 3d printing and such, but other than that, i wouldnt use it for modeling.
i suggest not using it due to the dangers in both use and storage (it needs a stable temp).
just pay for the real stuff one alternative. its cheap enough to not worry about the price. its not like you plan on wel

u/scuderia_Rosso · 5 pointsr/Warthunder

nonononono dont use super glue! What you need is cement glue, I use and recommend Tamiya. I've never used super glue on plastic models so Im not sure what will happen, but play it safe and use the stuff that was designed for these models.

Edit: look to see if there are any hobby stores near you, they most likely can give you advice, and most likely would stock the correct paints and glues

here's my airfix Hurricane mkII that was my first serious build, It's old and I lost the canopy, but I still like it :) Model making can be very fun, those are some nice kits, enjoy them

u/Monoker · 4 pointsr/CrisisProtocol

I tried a few different ones and had the most success with this for the model assembly and then any super glue gel for the model to the base.

u/wrel_ · 4 pointsr/modelmakers

This stuff right here.

Just use it in a well ventilated area and don't apply it to parts you've' painted cause it'll eat that paint like it wasn't there.

u/arafik815 · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

Tamiya 87038 Extra Thin Cement Glue Fine Tip 40ml

u/sops-sierra-19 · 4 pointsr/Gunpla

Tamiya extra thin plastic cement my dude. Will literally weld the plastic back together, better than superglue for fixing clean breaks.

u/lordwithoutmyth · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

i did something similar with a p bandai kit i got a while ago. was a lot more rigit than i was expecting and i broke a piece off.
I found out about a brand of plastic cement.

it is a solvent that partially dissolves the plastic. put it on and line it up right with where it broke and apply pressure. then let it sit for about a day, then it will be practically like new. seen people use stuff like this to fix seamlines too though that takes a bit of sanding.

u/fabiodens · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

I suggest that you use a plastic cement to glue in the parts. That's why I do with accidents like this. Plastic Cement is pretty solid as an adhesive too. Here's what I suggest that you get:

u/Zetsumi666 · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

I recommend you pick yourself up a bottle of this to help deal with the sheer off. Apply a coating to the sheered off end, hold it together for awhile, and then leave it be so it can cure properly. It should weld the two pieces together, but with the location of the break, you do run the risk of losing some flexibility in the arm.

u/CivilC · 3 pointsr/Gunpla

Or any other liquid cement. Sand down the runners to get the mold release off, apply the cement to where you want to attach, firmly hold for 30 seconds

u/SuperfluousShark · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

My best guess would be to use a thinner for that type of glue, if one is available. If one isn't, you might need to just gently flick and peel them off or softly sand them down. Wish I could give a better answer :(

Also, I'd recommend making the jump to cement glue as it creates very small seams that can be sanded down to near invisible levels with some patience and a delicate hand. Though if the model kit is of a good quality, you probably wouldn't need to. Tamiya example on Amazon. An example of a model maker using that type of glue. He also gives great tips throughout his videos, if you find yourself a fan of his.

u/blueunitzero · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

dont use a super glue use an acetone based glue, it works by melting the plastic and fusing it together then evaporates. i use this

u/TsundereBolt · 3 pointsr/Gunpla
u/Pathological_RJ · 3 pointsr/boardgames

Tamiya Extra Thin Cement works perfectly for KDM. The cement actually melts the plastic together for a tight fit. It comes with a fine tip brush applicator which gives you great control. Added bonus is you can’t glue things to your fingers, and it gives you 10-30 seconds to reposition the pieces.

Definitely dry fit all pieces before gluing to make sure they go together properly. Have fun!

u/SunstyIe · 2 pointsr/KingdomDeath

Armor kits come with the original game purchase- yes.

I'd recommend this glue:

Anyone that has built minis for a while loves Tamiya. It's FAR superior to most super glues.

u/Pegguins · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

It sounds like a great idea. So to start off with, do you know what really interests him? Like Tanks or planes or ships, military, civilian, what sort of era (like ww1/ww2/coldwar etc). Tanks is a bit of a wide pool!

In general, Tamiya is often a very good place to start. The kits are pretty easy to put together, they fit really well, look nice when done, have clear instructions and not too many parts. For tanks I would say a 1:35 scale tank is probably the best bet, tanks come in really 4 scales, 1:16 (absolutely monstorously huge), 1:35 (pretty much the standard scale, around 15 cm long or so), 1:40 or 50 something (used for war gaming stuff) and 1:72 teeny tiny tanks. Of the tanks I've built recently, the Tamiya amx-13 1:35 was pretty nice.

Kit aside, you'll be wanting to get him some tools (if he doesnt have any). As far basics I would say; 1) A pot of plastic glue, I recommend the tamiya extra thing (this stuff), a pair of cutters for getting parts off the sprue (I really like the pointy nose ones like this, a pair of tweezers (if he has some lying around they'll do to start with), something to sand pieces with (some use sandpaper, I use sanding sponges, some use sanding sticks), a couple of brushes (small detail and wide flat are what I use the most) and once you've decided on a kit maybe a pots of paint. On the paint front, again I would just default to tamiya acryllic 17ml pots to start with (and buy him some thinner, those paints are like treacle).

As another option, there are some really nice kits by bandai which dont really need any glue and dont have to be painted (look better with both in my opionion) but they are fundamentally click together. Their starwars line of kits are especially great in my view if thats something he likes.

If you have a local modelstore I would go talk to them. Places like hobbycraft carry models but they arent particularly helpful in my expience. If you dont have a hobbystore near you, then the websides I dfefault to are (very nice to navigate website, a little expensive), hannants (god awful website design, but they stock basically everything under the sun), (somewhere inbetween, I have had some poor service from them but most people seem fine), amazon (be very careful with prices, there arent many model supplies on there and the stuff that is seems to get uppriced by bots to silly levels) and ebay (if you find something you really want its often on there for a good 20% cheaper than elsewhere, especially older cheaper kits).

u/majintb · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Great panel lining work! I'm jealous! It's interesting to see that you opted not to use some of the stickers (like around the toes). Good use of dynamic posing as well.

Very few (if at all any) nubs, but the one on the top of the cannon sticks out to me. Have you considered using thin cement to "melt" the plastic and bond it all together? It works wonders without needing to get messy like you do with putty.

In case you need some, Tamiya makes them:

u/MambaMonster · 2 pointsr/DnD

Super glue or plastic cement is recommended I think.
Tamiya Plastic cement is supposed to be good:

Here's some info specific to bones:

u/Dorksim · 2 pointsr/minipainting
u/Sether2121 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Plastic Cement is what you should use with models.

Standard glues use the glue to gold the parts together, whereas plastic cement melts the parts together

u/legoman4032 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I just built my RG Zeta and you couldn't be more right about parts falling off cause of a light breeze. I glued the skirts, vets, and even the chest frame to the gray part that moves the chest up and down just to make it bearable. If you can find it, I'd recommend getting this glue here cause it won't melt the plastic to where it's obvious.

u/axon_resonance · 2 pointsr/FrameArms

Yup have fun! If you got a revell kit which requires gluing, I recommend using Tamiya cement instead of the supplied model cement. I found the supplied stuff tends to add thickness to connections, which will push apart seam lines. What you want to do with this stuff, if there's peg holes, apply a tiny bit in the hole then snap together. Run the thin brush with the tamiya cement along the seam line, this solution will soften and literally weld the plastic together. Apply pressure on both sides to really push together the seam. Some excess material will goo out, this is a sign that the melding is working and the pressure is pushing the 2 together. However dont over pressure to the point where things buck. Let sit and cure, preferably let sit for 12 hr+ (I'm impatient so sometimes I tackle it around the 4-6 hr mark). The plastic will solidify again and here you treat like the nubs, use a blade to carve off the excess and sand away the seam line. This is what modelers do to remove ugly gaps and large seam lines, a bit technical and requires practice, but necessary for certain kits.

If you're hasty and impatient like me and want to avoid waiting/don't care too much about seam lines, use CA glue Which is just fancy speak for super glue. This stuff dries thin and is VERY fast. The purple cap dries in 5-15s, there is a blue cap that dries in 1-3s. Use sparingly, and make sure the part doesnt need to come apart again, as they never will.

Ah yeah, the hasegawa Su-33 is pretty high end, plus expensive. would definitely practice before tackling it. I personally like the reverse swept plane from ace combat more, though I dont know much about the series

u/MG_Sazabi_Main · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

you'll probably getting a lot of this for the many loose parts of that kit.

u/Orgell_Evaan · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

Tamyia makes a good primer in rattlecan and handbrush; while you're there, pick up some ultra thin cement - it's awesome for seam fusing.

u/xyals · 2 pointsr/KingdomDeath

Would this be a good choice? I was reading up on and they recommended the citadel clippers and GW thin glue. However, this was the closest thing I could find on amazon. Alsow what about these clippers?

u/darkarchonlord · 2 pointsr/Eldar

To make sure your bikers don't get "stuck" you need to have their legs positioned perfectly or they splay out or pinch into the jetbike seat.

There's a line on their ass that runs across both legs that I've always used to ensure fit. What I do is use a thin plastic glue like the brush on Tamiya, brush it into the leg hole and the part of the joint where it connects, then press the legs on. After that I let it set for maybe about 10s and then I put the biker on a jetbike and adjust the legs a little before the glue sets completely hard.

This allows me to ensure two things. First, that each biker stays on their bike without magnets or anything. And second, that and both of the bikers feet contact the foot rests and both their hands contact the handlebars (I use the same technique for arms).

u/GooberTown_Brent · 2 pointsr/Warhammer

I like Tamiya cement. I use the extra thin variety most often. It comes with a brush on the lid which I find much easier than trying to squirt the correct amount in the correct place, or trying to scoop it up with a toothpick or whatnot.

As for the chemistry, really any brand will dissolve GW plastic and meld pieces together, it's just a question of what consistency you like working with better.

u/dylan227 · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

> I'll be getting a pg unicorn

I don't think there is one yet... Do you mean Master Grade?

I'm not sure on the rubber cement. I use Tamiya Plastic Cement. For markers, I suggest the fine tip gundam markers. These are cool because if you make a mistake, you can wipe it off before it dries. Your strategy looks good. Are you going to be doing nub removal? I use a x-acto knife and very high grit sandpaper to get rid of nubs. You also might want to pick up the Tamiya Basic Tool Set for removing the pieces off runners. As far as changes to kits over the past 10 years, I've noticed that HG and MG kits have gotten a lot better. There's a lot more detail in them now than there was before. Also, a new line of gunpla has come out called Real Grade. These aim to take the quality and articulation of a Master Grade kit, and put it in 1/144 scale. They look fantastic, and have a inner frame that you build.

u/SunbroSteve · 2 pointsr/MonsterHunter

There are a few different ways to fill seamlines, with my preference being Tamiya Thin Plastic Cement. Filling seams should only be done if you want to paint, as you get to paint over the filled seam. As for masking, any small measuring tool is helpful. In addition, good Masking Tape can also help.

u/FreakinfreakInfreaki · 2 pointsr/modelmakers

Just get some of this

u/OhMyAnAussie · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Do you perhaps know how GW's current plastic glue works? I've used the really old one that came with a brush (like tamiya's glues), that one melted the plastic slightly in which case 'removing it' doesn't do anything since it's already destroyed detail. In this case you may need to resculpt the detail yourself.

Also don't use any glue debonder/remover, they are acetone based...and acetone will eat plastic.

Your best bet may be isopropyl alcohol at 99% diluted with water. Though even this can melt plastic but is far less reactive then any other remover like acetone/turps/spirits. Trythis at your own risk really. Sorry can't really be much help. In the future you may want to try something like this, it's thin but easier to manipulate since it has a brush.

u/PenMount · 1 pointr/Warhammer

Tamiya Extra Thin Cement† are my go to plastic glue:

I love the small brush in it for applying the glue I find it easier to control the "precision" tube (like on this) I also find that the tube get stopped with old glue and I don't think I have ever used all the glue in one because of that. But as I said the Tamiya glue do not have that problem.

The design of the glass bottle makes it almost impossible to tip over (I did that 2 times last time I tryed humbrol Liquid Poly)

I like the glue it self, but if you want "extra thin" or something a little thicker is a personal taste and what you are using it for. But extra thin are the standard for model kits and what we are doing is smaller (or same size) than that.

Edit: I forgot to say that if your flgs don't have it you local model kit/train store does, and in general it's a good place to look for hobby supplies.

†(The link are from this guide that I like, so there probably a refual link in it)

u/Wednesdayayay · 1 pointr/KingdomDeath

also there were a couple parts that didn't sit fully flush after our initial gluing

we used tamiya extra thin cement and after letting it sit for a little bit we simply applied a little more glue to the offending crack (one instance was the arm holding the spear) then gently pushed it where it needed to be and held it for 20 seconds or so

I think when we get Allison I'll take pictures at different steps

u/Kalzic · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Hey everyone!

I'm as new as it gets. So, I made a shopping list after doing some research on everything that I think I need to start. I'll place the links to all the items in the lines below. Everything is on Amazon because... well why not?








More Markers!

*Krylon Matte Finish

Am I missing anything?

u/hallgeir · 1 pointr/ageofsigmar


Is the glue you will want to get, hands down. All the models are plastics, and there is no better plastic glue than the one I linked.

u/qadib_muakkara · 1 pointr/KingdomDeath

I just got this stuff for my brother:



mold line scraper

I'd suggest getting some well reviewed mini brushes from Amazon as well. Make sure you clean them. Enjoy!

u/SeiJai · 1 pointr/Gunpla

It's not absolutely necessary to wash the pieces, though it doesn't hurt. Old Bandai kits used to have a layer of residue on the plastic to help the piece get removed from the mold but the technology nowadays have improved a lot and there isn't a need to wash the pieces. Priming is important to help the paint adhere to the plastic, though even then it is not necessary. Some people will still swear by the wash, prime, paint, gloss, panel line, top coat procedure. Some (myself included) have skipped the washing and priming part, though I do prime when changing stock color schemes.

To do the front skirt of bb351, I would paint the whole thing light blue, or the color of your choice, let the paint dry, mask the inner part (where you want to keep the blue) and then spray the whole piece gold. Let it dry, remove the masking tape, and you should have a two colored piece. Procedure is similar for the other pieces. Do not paint the transparent parts unless you want to make them opaque?

[Liquid cement] (, one of the more important tools in your gunpla tool box. It pretty much melts the two pieces and fuses them together.

u/kirbfucius · 1 pointr/Malifaux

Another option is Tamiya plastic glue; it's just as good. This is the stuff you're looking for:

It works by melting the plastic that it touches, so the two parts fuse together into a permanent bond. The best way to use it is to put a little bit on one or both of the surfaces you want to combine, wait a few seconds for it to start dissolving the plastic, then press them together.

It is great on translucent models because it dries perfectly clear.

u/wonderboy2402 · 1 pointr/MiddleEarthMiniatures

If you need suggestions on Glue, I like using [Cyanoarcylate glue] ( This will work on both plastic and metal miniatures. Most hobby stores will have this with a different store label. You don't need much to glue and it dries really quickly (10-15 seconds)

You could also try using a more advanced glue: Tamiya Extra thin cement. But be advised, this may slightly melt plastics, which is why it is great on large models. I did this with my troll and it worked really well. I wouldn't really use it on small figured if you are novice to miniature assembly. It tends to flow into spaces and basically melts plastic together nearly seamlessly... but take care with it. It dries rather slowly, so I will use a bit of the Cyan glue and then use the Tamiya glue elsewhere on the model. So the cyan will hold quickly which will then allow the Tamiya time to dry and meld the plastic.

I would recommend some snips for removing the miniatures from the plastic spues, a sharp hobby knife, and maybe some hobby files. The snips from Games workshop and the scraping tool are nice, but cost ALOT. You probably get away with just a hobby knife for like 8 bucks... but with as many miniatures you are assembling it is work considering your hands and fingers. =]

A hobby mat / cutting board could also be good to work on but not necessary.

u/fxakira · 1 pointr/Gunpla

If it's just a crack, the Extra thin Cement should work too. Apply the cement into the area of the crack, squeeze the two sides so that the edges come together and a bit of plastic protrude out, and let it cure for a day. After curing, remove the excess plastic with sandpaper / shave with a knife

u/Batknight12 · 1 pointr/Gunpla

Do you have a recommendation for a specific brand? I've had troubling finding a glue that is recommended for rigid Polystyrene. Most of what I get points me in the direction of modeling cement like this

u/Ultra-Q · 1 pointr/DCcomics

You could maybe try thin model cement ?
I don't know how it would work on that kind of plastic though

u/Yatterman · 1 pointr/KingdomDeath

What glue did you use for her? I bought one and for some reason this glue isn't working at all for me.

u/K3mpt · 1 pointr/minipainting

I think I'll get my hands on this

It's cheaper than MrCementS and also thin. Some lad on youtube did a review and they seem the same.

u/AsavarKul · 1 pointr/minipainting

Get this glue
It comes with a little brush on the cap to apply it, so it makes a thin layer, and it actually fuses the plastic together, so it makes the mini very durable.
Note that it will only work with plastic minis, for metal or resin you'll want superglue..

u/Sabinlerose · 1 pointr/Gunpla

This would probably work wonders in removing those seam lines.
It's a cheap kit so thats the best kit to practice with a new technique.

u/TheRussianHD · 1 pointr/KingdomDeath

I recommend Tamiya, basically the same effect as any other plastic cement, but the bottle has a little brush in the cap which I have found to be much more convenient for application. Specifically, the brush allows you to be much more precise and does not have the possibility of excess glue running down the model.